Part 1 of the Gyeon Syncro Evo will focus on MOHS Evo. MOHS Evo is one of the slickest coatings I have used. Enjoy and thanks for watching. Hope you make it to the end. Part 2 will be up soon as well which will focus on Skin Evo.
Glad to hear your comments on the original Mohs. I also had the same issues and dreaded how easily it used to waterspot. I switched to Gtechniq/Cquartz coatings after years of using Gyeon exclusively. Might be worth trying this again. Cheers Mike. Keep up the good work!
Going to do my first coating in the spring. Really liking these new Gyeon coatings. Was thinking of using Pure on my silver car. But after watching both your videos I'm thinking maybe Mohs would be better for a first timer. Was thinking the Pure would really make my silver car pop.
@@MikeGDetailing should I maintain it with carpro reload, or Adam's advanced graphene ceramic. I ask because I already have the Adam's, but i hear that reload is the best.
@@kylefraser4280 I am not a fan of Reload. It loses its hydrophobic behavior after a couple washes and it starts to look like the coating had failed. But it’s just reload. I would choose Gyeon Cure or Glassparency Boost over Reload. You can use the Adams but I would save that for a yearly maintenance topper. Keep in mind you will see the performance of the topper.
I’ve watched multiple videos on the application process of this product and yours is the best. It should be the official application video for GYEON. One question for you. Is it OK to use products like Xtreme after washing or is it necessary to use the Gyeon product (I believe it is called ceramic detailer)?
Mike you may have mentioned in another video. Do you just use a Sharpie to label the corners? It's a great idea to make sure you're not wiping or leveling on a side you've already used.
Great work! On a silver car, and the main goal is to get as much gloss as possible, would Pure be a better choice over Mohs? And would topping either with CanCoat give it a bit more pop of gloss?
Thanks. After using both Pure Evo and Mohs Evo, I would choose Mohs Evo for its overall performance. I find it to be the better coating between it and Pure Evo. If you want to amp the gloss a little more from Mohs then CanCoat would be a good choice. Keep in mind that Mohs is slick by itself and CanCoat will take away the slickness.
Thanks. Since I used the Dr. Beasley’s NSP 95 surface primer, there is no need for a panel wipe. If I used another polish then I usually use a panel wipe during the polishing process to wipe off the polish. So no wash after polishing.
Thanks for the quick reply I just got my hands on gyeon one evo and going to be doing my bros car for him, just the instructions made me laugh as it says to re wash it after polish stage, will be doing gyeon primer as my last step anyways, loving your reviews keep up the good work
Hi Mike, After Months of researching coatings I finally chose to go with Gyeon MOHS. I will be applying it late spring as I am waiting for the massive Pollen Bloom to die down in my area. In my research I recently discovered your channel (New Subscriber). Based on your experience with the product would you recommend I top the coating with Gyeon Ceramic Detailer or Evo Can Coat after a month or two? P.S. Your Impala is Mint like it just came off the assembly line.
Thanks for subscribing. Good choice going with Mohs. It is a user friendly and a good upgrade from the previous version. I would go with the Ceramic Detailer after a month or even monthly. CanCoat would be good option say a year after a deep chemical decontamination wash.
Mike applied Mohs to another of our cars. Had to leave for awhile and didn't get to apply Cure. Was late and cold at that point. We had frost last night. Should I be worried? I still have more coating though.
@@MikeGDetailing I've used edgless 300's in the past. Tried something cheaper with diferent colour choices but I tend to always reach for the 300, good quality decent priced and does the job well. In fact, already got some ordered. Thanks for the info 👍got a new subscriber. Yay!
I believe you have applied these new Gyeon coatings on 2 silver cars? Which one looks better on metallic flake silver;... Pure, Mohs w/o Skin, or Mohs w/Skin?
I’ll be posting up the follow up with Skin soon. But if you want that dipped in glass look then Pure is the one to choose. If it’s more of the crisp look then just Mohs and finally a bit more of that dipped in glass look once topped with Skin. Pure gives the glassiest look.
Glassy means it gives that dipped in glass appearance. Just a different way to describe the look Pure gives as Mohs still looks glossy but not that super glassy look.
Has anyone tried applying SKIN as the base coat and then MOHS after 4 hours? I'm curious to know if you get the slickness of MOHS in the end but the durability and hydrophobicity of SKIN and MOHS combined
I’m going off memory but I want to say I used about 20-30 ml’s for this sedan. You will definitely need the 50 ml bottle if you are planning to apply 2 layers.
I thought in the Esoteric video they said Pure was the one that has more of a candy coat look. I also thought with the new Mohs there's no need to use Skin anymore?
This is the information that I was told by the Gyeon USA representative. Syncro was always going to stay in the line up as their most durable consumer coating.
@@MikeGDetailing Oh good. I’m sure if a car is prepped correctly and polished to perfection that the average is not gonna be able to tell a difference whatsoever if it’s mohs or pure.
Yes I have used all three so far. Primarily the NSP 95 and 45. Not so much of the NSP 150. But they are very good. They save me a lot of time with no need for a panel wipe prior to a coating.
Thanks for the detailed video. I just received Syncro in the mail. Do you think Syncro can be applied to PPF? I know Gyeon has a ppf specific coating, but if I end up buying a separate ppf coating then I’ll I have excess that will go to waste - even if I do multiple coats and wheels. Thank you
The obsessed garage drying aid is good. People complain about bead maker and dust but it is slick. Also GladsParency Boost is nice. I still like CarPro Elixir as well.
Thanks, dude. I’ve been leaning toward slipstream, I know it’s really hot in the scene right now. I was seesawing between that and graphene cs3. But I can pick up a gallon of slipstream for $20 and some change vs $80. Appreciate the reply.
New subscriber . Ty for the video. I just got the cancoat , one and mohs . All evo . I didnt get the skin . Question, is it possible to use the cancoat over the mohs instead of skin to get the same durability? Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Ty again.
Congratulations for the very interesting video, I heard that in the video you were also talking about the Gtechniq, Crystal Serum Light + EXO how you find it compared to the new Syncro evo, if you can give me a reason I would be grateful since I will protect my car in moments and I am very undecided between these two products and I am curious which one you prefer between the two.
I liked the previous version of Exo V3. To me the current version V4 does not last that long. Based on my almost 2 month experience I would choose Syncro Evo. Also one less layer makes it much more enjoyable.
I can't decide if Pure or Mohs looks better on silver. Todd from Esoteric was saying Mohs looks better on silver.....YET Pure looked really good on your bro's silver ride. I can't tell if Skin made any difference of appearance. I want something that looks glasssssY....but I guess not as obvious on silver? How does SiC compare to Pure as far as looks?
You are correct that it is hard to differentiate between coatings on silver or white. SiC will look about the same as Pure on silver. The benefit of SiC is that it is slick unlike Pure.
I've just applied Gyeon Synchro to my BMW 7 Series and I won't recommend this two coat system. Because the car is very large I had to rush around so that Skin can be applied within two hours max. It took me 1 1/2 hours to apply MOHS. A single coat of just MOHS would have been fine.
You know I wonder how they come up with those star ratings. The actual bottles don’t have them. Only on their site. I would not put too much emphasis on them. I’ll be posting up a video during the first wash. I will ask my brother to bring his by that has Pure on it.
@@ffforce5106 this one is pretty good. Where are you located? Armour Detail Supply Armour Glass Application & Water Beading ruclips.net/video/xYMYuMWbdgI/видео.html
Mike......can you apply the Mohs (step 1) to the entire car, then start applying the skin 9step 2)? Or do you have to apply the Skin immediately after you wipe off each section of the Mohs step 1....?
Ok, I totally misunderstood. Ok cool. Do the whole car with Mohs and wipe it off. Then go to the area you began putting the Mohs first coat on and just start putting the Skin on there. And……after that first Mohs coat you can do another Mohs coat over the first Mohs coat for a longer lasting ceramic job after you finally apply the Skin…….correct?
Mike. Another question. I just did both of my cars with Avalon King IX. One car has been 5 months, the other I did last week. The 5 month old car is still heading extremely well and it’s still very slick. When do I know it’s ok to apply the Gyeon Syncro EVO 2-step ceramic? Can I strip the Avalon off easily? Or go right over it? I’ve started seeing RUclips reviews that says the Avalon is just not that good.
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/af0phKxitX8/mqdefault.jpg)
Part 1 of the Gyeon Syncro Evo will focus on MOHS Evo. MOHS Evo is one of the slickest coatings I have used. Enjoy and thanks for watching. Hope you make it to the end. Part 2 will be up soon as well which will focus on Skin Evo.
I just ordered some. Have a client booked for the first week of February can't wait to try it out.
Glad to hear your comments on the original Mohs. I also had the same issues and dreaded how easily it used to waterspot. I switched to Gtechniq/Cquartz coatings after years of using Gyeon exclusively. Might be worth trying this again. Cheers Mike. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video. Finished it just now. Appreciate all the different styles your testing on this one. Bonus content!
Great video , I bought a syncro evo kit, but after watching the video,
I come to the conclusion that I will only apply mohs. Thank you
Try Skin on one section and see if you like it since you already have it.
@@MikeGDetailing good suggestion
Brilliant video thanks for that Mike..! Wish you had some SiC left to apply side by side with Mohs to determine the slickness champ!
Thanks. I do have a bottle of SiC. I’ll figure something out to test the slickness of both.
Going to do my first coating in the spring. Really liking these new Gyeon coatings. Was thinking of using Pure on my silver car. But after watching both your videos I'm thinking maybe Mohs would be better for a first timer. Was thinking the Pure would really make my silver car pop.
Same I'm gonna do my first in the spring. I think I'm going to go with pure though. Pure seems the glossiest/wet look that I am looking for.
Mohs is easier to apply but Pure is glossier and gives that dipped in glass appearance. Both are easy to work with for a first timer.
@@MikeGDetailing ... Thanks
@@MikeGDetailing should I maintain it with carpro reload, or Adam's advanced graphene ceramic. I ask because I already have the Adam's, but i hear that reload is the best.
@@kylefraser4280 I am not a fan of Reload. It loses its hydrophobic behavior after a couple washes and it starts to look like the coating had failed. But it’s just reload. I would choose Gyeon Cure or Glassparency Boost over Reload.
You can use the Adams but I would save that for a yearly maintenance topper. Keep in mind you will see the performance of the topper.
Seems to be a way more relaxed application than the original mohs! Given how little time we had before for wipe off.
Much more enjoyable. The one layer approach is going to be a winner.
@@MikeGDetailing yes indeed! Appreciate your content!!
I’ve watched multiple videos on the application process of this product and yours is the best. It should be the official application video for GYEON. One question for you.
Is it OK to use products like Xtreme after washing or is it necessary to use the Gyeon product (I believe it is called ceramic detailer)?
Appreciate that. Glad it helped. You can use your favorite products after washing and not a dedicated Gyeon product.
Mike I spotted an orange lake country pad! Where's the trustee rupes yellow? :) I really like both.
Haha good catch.
Mike you may have mentioned in another video. Do you just use a Sharpie to label the corners? It's a great idea to make sure you're not wiping or leveling on a side you've already used.
Yup just a sharpie
@@MikeGDetailing How often do you flip each leveling and buffing towel?
@@wescat2 hard to answer but when your first towel start to smear and push product around it’s time to flip to a new side.
Great work! On a silver car, and the main goal is to get as much gloss as possible, would Pure be a better choice over Mohs? And would topping either with CanCoat give it a bit more pop of gloss?
Thanks. After using both Pure Evo and Mohs Evo, I would choose Mohs Evo for its overall performance. I find it to be the better coating between it and Pure Evo. If you want to amp the gloss a little more from Mohs then CanCoat would be a good choice. Keep in mind that Mohs is slick by itself and CanCoat will take away the slickness.
I may be biased, but that matte black Coating Caddy™ Ceramic and Graphene Bottle Holder, it looks good. #coatingcaddy
It worked out great as well. The new design is a big upgrade
How does one go to order that black coating caddy?
@@functionaldoc5054 More info on Mike's video here ruclips.net/video/x-u1tJ4hbGg/видео.html
Your email or you on Autopia or Autogeek forum? Same user names on those forums.
Here’s the email to contact him
deucekid@sbcglobal.net
Another amazing video Mike, out of interest do you give the car a second wash after you do your correction or just use gyeon prep
Thanks. Since I used the Dr. Beasley’s NSP 95 surface primer, there is no need for a panel wipe. If I used another polish then I usually use a panel wipe during the polishing process to wipe off the polish. So no wash after polishing.
Thanks for the quick reply I just got my hands on gyeon one evo and going to be doing my bros car for him, just the instructions made me laugh as it says to re wash it after polish stage, will be doing gyeon primer as my last step anyways, loving your reviews keep up the good work
Yeah I saw that as well since you are using primer you won’t need too. I saw Gyeon state no need for a panel wipe after 8-12 hours if using Primer.
Hi Mike,
After Months of researching coatings I finally chose to go with Gyeon MOHS. I will be applying it late spring as I am waiting for the massive Pollen Bloom to die down in my area. In my research I recently discovered your channel (New Subscriber).
Based on your experience with the product would you recommend I top the coating with Gyeon Ceramic Detailer or Evo Can Coat after a month or two?
P.S. Your Impala is Mint like it just came off the assembly line.
Thanks for subscribing. Good choice going with Mohs. It is a user friendly and a good upgrade from the previous version.
I would go with the Ceramic Detailer after a month or even monthly. CanCoat would be good option say a year after a deep chemical decontamination wash.
@@MikeGDetailing Are you referring to Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer, thanks.
Mike applied Mohs to another of our cars. Had to leave for awhile and didn't get to apply Cure. Was late and cold at that point. We had frost last night. Should I be worried? I still have more coating though.
Should be ok. But keep an eye on it for the first wash and verify if the hydrophobic behavior looks good
@@MikeGDetailing Thanks Mike.
@@MikeGDetailing Rained last night so I took a hose and everything looked like Mohs should look. Crisis averted. Thanks for all the great info.
Nice videos Mike.
What towels are you using for leveling the coating?
I was sent these towels which are the CarPro 2face Lite towels. I primarily use the rag company edgeless 300.
@@MikeGDetailing I've used edgless 300's in the past. Tried something cheaper with diferent colour choices but I tend to always reach for the 300, good quality decent priced and does the job well.
In fact, already got some ordered.
Thanks for the info 👍got a new subscriber. Yay!
I believe you have applied these new Gyeon coatings on 2 silver cars? Which one looks better on metallic flake silver;... Pure, Mohs w/o Skin, or Mohs w/Skin?
I’ll be posting up the follow up with Skin soon. But if you want that dipped in glass look then Pure is the one to choose. If it’s more of the crisp look then just Mohs and finally a bit more of that dipped in glass look once topped with Skin.
Pure gives the glassiest look.
@@MikeGDetailing Is glassy and glossy synonymous? Is a dipped and glass look the same thing as saying.. very glossy?
Glassy means it gives that dipped in glass appearance. Just a different way to describe the look Pure gives as Mohs still looks glossy but not that super glassy look.
@@MikeGDetailing glassy, is kind of like a hard shell candy gloss?
@@bbdetailing9123 yup exactly.
Has anyone tried applying SKIN as the base coat and then MOHS after 4 hours? I'm curious to know if you get the slickness of MOHS in the end but the durability and hydrophobicity of SKIN and MOHS combined
How much mohs evo did you use? not sure if i should get the 30 or 50ml for a large sedan one coat.
I’m going off memory but I want to say I used about 20-30 ml’s for this sedan. You will definitely need the 50 ml bottle if you are planning to apply 2 layers.
Do you put anything on as a topper later such as Carpro Reload for example?
I didn’t. You can use Gyeon Cure or Gyeon Ceramic Detailer per their instructions if the car will see water within that 12 hour time frame.
I thought in the Esoteric video they said Pure was the one that has more of a candy coat look. I also thought with the new Mohs there's no need to use Skin anymore?
This is the information that I was told by the Gyeon USA representative. Syncro was always going to stay in the line up as their most durable consumer coating.
@@MikeGDetailing Oh good. I’m sure if a car is prepped correctly and polished to perfection that the average is not gonna be able to tell a difference whatsoever if it’s mohs or pure.
Exactly right.
Also - saw the 3-part Dr Beasley kit on your table - have you used that for paint correction before? Results, if so?
Yes I have used all three so far. Primarily the NSP 95 and 45. Not so much of the NSP 150. But they are very good. They save me a lot of time with no need for a panel wipe prior to a coating.
@@MikeGDetailing cool- thanks a lot.
good morning why do you use the applicator on the long hair side while Gyeon recommends using the short hair side? thank you
The Gyeon representative that sent me these products recommended the microfiber side for Mohs and the suede side for Skin. You could use either side.
Thanks for the detailed video. I just received Syncro in the mail. Do you think Syncro can be applied to PPF? I know Gyeon has a ppf specific coating, but if I end up buying a separate ppf coating then I’ll I have excess that will go to waste - even if I do multiple coats and wheels. Thank you
I used it in the PPF that is in the headlights and no issues so far.
Mike - what towels did you use for the MOHS wipe off and how many did you end up going through for the whole vehicle?
I like these for coatings. I’m going off memory as it’s been almost a year since I put it on. I think it was 3 maybe 4 towels.
amzn.to/3CXZISC
@@MikeGDetailing thank you....I have some of those in grey I think...will have to look and see what I have
Hey mike, I know this is off topic, but what is the slickest topcoat / drying aid that you’ve used? Thanks.
The obsessed garage drying aid is good. People complain about bead maker and dust but it is slick. Also GladsParency Boost is nice. I still like CarPro Elixir as well.
Thanks, dude. I’ve been leaning toward slipstream, I know it’s really hot in the scene right now.
I was seesawing between that and graphene cs3.
But I can pick up a gallon of slipstream for $20 and some change vs $80. Appreciate the reply.
CS3 or GCS3 are also nice. I forgot about those two. Hard to beat slipstream if you can get a gallon of it for $20.
Do you have any idea how long MOHS stays effective after the bottle is opened?
I am not sure on that. If it’s sealed and stored out of extreme temperatures I would say a few months.
Would topping with Cure reduce the slickness of MOHS?
It won't reduce it but the slickness will be that of Cure.
New subscriber . Ty for the video. I just got the cancoat , one and mohs . All evo . I didnt get the skin . Question, is it possible to use the cancoat over the mohs instead of skin to get the same durability? Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Ty again.
CanCoat will work on any of the coatings as a topper. The durability would be close to Syncro.
Mike, what towels are those during wipe off?
CarPro 2face Lite towels that Avi sent me awhile ago. I typically use the rag company edgeless 300.
@@MikeGDetailing thanks. I ended up ordering autofiber quadrant towels. The IGL coating towels, they just didn't work for me. Preference is all.
Congratulations for the very interesting video, I heard that in the video you were also talking about the Gtechniq, Crystal Serum Light + EXO how you find it compared to the new Syncro evo, if you can give me a reason I would be grateful since I will protect my car in moments and I am very undecided between these two products and I am curious which one you prefer between the two.
I liked the previous version of Exo V3. To me the current version V4 does not last that long. Based on my almost 2 month experience I would choose Syncro Evo. Also one less layer makes it much more enjoyable.
Do you know yet if there’s much difference between the hydrophobics of the three, Mohs, Skin and CanCoat?
At the moment I do not. Will find out during the first wash in a couple weeks.
I can't decide if Pure or Mohs looks better on silver. Todd from Esoteric was saying Mohs looks better on silver.....YET Pure looked really good on your bro's silver ride. I can't tell if Skin made any difference of appearance. I want something that looks glasssssY....but I guess not as obvious on silver?
How does SiC compare to Pure as far as looks?
You are correct that it is hard to differentiate between coatings on silver or white. SiC will look about the same as Pure on silver. The benefit of SiC is that it is slick unlike Pure.
hi can you apply mohs evo on exterior trim
Gyeon told me it to pass along to not use it on trim or glass.
I've just applied Gyeon Synchro to my BMW 7 Series and I won't recommend this two coat system. Because the car is very large I had to rush around so that Skin can be applied within two hours max. It took me 1 1/2 hours to apply MOHS. A single coat of just MOHS would have been fine.
You would have been ok as you could go straight to Skin after Mohs. Surprised it took this long to coat the BMW with Mohs.
Hey Mike. How accurate are the star ratings Gyeon uses for gloss, water behaviour etc. trying to decide between pure or mohs
You know I wonder how they come up with those star ratings. The actual bottles don’t have them. Only on their site. I would not put too much emphasis on them. I’ll be posting up a video during the first wash. I will ask my brother to bring his by that has Pure on it.
@@MikeGDetailing looking forward to the results. Thanks for the reply
Is it possible to apply mohs on the windscreen?
Not recommended for the windscreen by Gyeon because of wiper chatter.
@@MikeGDetailing what would you recommend for the windscreen?
@@ffforce5106 this one is pretty good. Where are you located?
Armour Detail Supply Armour Glass Application & Water Beading
ruclips.net/video/xYMYuMWbdgI/видео.html
Does MOHS have a strong chemical smell? I know Kamikaze does not....
No it does not
Hi , can you put the MOHS on trim or plastic ?
I was told no by the Gyeon representative. If you do, be sure to try it on a small spot first.
Thanks , what about MOHS ON THE GLASS ? I can’t find anything on that , thanks
gyeon pure best or syncro?
Mohs stand alone is the best.
@@MikeGDetailing What do you think about ceramic fireball? gyeon or Fireball?
@@amirhossein647 I haven’t used anything from Fireball so I am not sure how Gyeon would compare.
Mike......can you apply the Mohs (step 1) to the entire car, then start applying the skin 9step 2)? Or do you have to apply the Skin immediately after you wipe off each section of the Mohs step 1....?
It’s 1 hour between Mohs and Skin. So after you apply Mohs to the entire car and wipe it off you can pretty much go right into skin.
Ok, I totally misunderstood. Ok cool. Do the whole car with Mohs and wipe it off. Then go to the area you began putting the Mohs first coat on and just start putting the Skin on there.
And……after that first Mohs coat you can do another Mohs coat over the first Mohs coat for a longer lasting ceramic job after you finally apply the Skin…….correct?
That is correct.
Mike.
Another question. I just did both of my cars with Avalon King IX. One car has been 5 months, the other I did last week. The 5 month old car is still heading extremely well and it’s still very slick. When do I know it’s ok to apply the Gyeon Syncro EVO 2-step ceramic? Can I strip the Avalon off easily? Or go right over it? I’ve started seeing RUclips reviews that says the Avalon is just not that good.
@@2ndAmendProtectorbest way would be to polish it off so you can start fresh with Synchro.