Part 2 covers the application of Skin Evo which is the top coat in the Gyeon Syncro Evo kit. Bonus content at the end of this one. For the slickness test see the end of Part 1 ruclips.net/video/YuoGtftMHFk/видео.html&ab_channel=MikeG
~14:00 On the application thing to see high spots. Pro tip: shine the light against the wall instead and you’ll make the highspots VERY visible. It works for me on the shop with black walls and has also worked at home with grey and yellow walls as well as brown. Dunno how it’ll do with white but I assume it’ll be better than directly shining the inspection light on it. I have those same lights, a scangrip multimatch R which is that gyeon reskinned one u have and an astro 50sl which is the handheld light. Love both of em. Got the scangrip version as well and the i-match. Love the scangrip line.
Can't wait for the water test video , I have been looking at the new gyeon coatings and I'm waiting for my detail shop that carries gyeon to get this order with the new stuff. Thanks for doing the videos man.
Just used Syncro kit on my 2017 Mazda 6 Soul Red. I was aware that the SKIN is not as slick as MOHS and I was OK with it. But after applying SKIN I was so disappointed (and I think I can hear disappointment in your voice too). I'm not sure if instead of SKIN, I should have applied a second layer of MOHS... A week later I applied Gyeon CURE and it darkened the paint further. It seems like a great maintenance product. Overall I am kinda happy with Gyeon Syncro kit. The paint looks amazing now. I'm just not sure what's the SKIN's purpose there, opposite of 2nd layer of MOHS...
Skin was a let down. It took away from the slickness of Mohs. After my year of testing Syncro Evo, yes it was better than the previous version but Skin still had signs of failure on various areas. It was designed with SiO2 to be more durable and chemical resistant but it still didn’t perform that well. There is no way this will last 5 years without topping it. I would and do recommend just 2 layers of Mohs rather than Synchro.
Gyeon is making me really want to switch from Gtechniq CSL & EXO V4 but I've yet to find a coating that can beat CSL in slickness. Any experience w/ this new MOHS vs CSL? Nice video!
Great videos. Would syncro be able to go over brake lights/headlights? I read somewhere someone using a suede wipe for the final leveling, could that be a good option for skin?
Would love to see an update if this after a year of application, did you do a hydrophobic test after as I can’t find another video, apart from the walk around. Thanks & great video by the way 👍
Unfortunately I do not have a 1 year update and synchro has been off the car for almost a year at this point. I will say Evo was much better than the previous version. If I were to use Gyeon coatings again I would just use Mohs. That is by far their best coating next to CanCoat.
Hi, i Just read the instruction manual for the gyeon syncro kit that i am doing now. And it says wait minimum 1 houre between each layer of MOSH and you must wait a minimum of 4 hours between the MOSH and Skin. FYI 😊
That’s the older version. The new Evo version does not require that long wait time. Huge improvement for time savings. ruclips.net/video/EcwnvASzXUs/видео.html
You would be ok with either one. They are both user friendly. Pure has the longer flash time just in case you get interrupted. Up to 10 minutes. This one rainbows. 2-3 minutes seems to be a good time to wipe off. Mohs has the section by section and will do the sweating effect to let you know when it is time to wipe off. If you want that candy coated gloss look then get Pure. If you want that more crisp look and slickness then just get Mohs.
I tried to install Syncro Evo yesterday and had a lot of issues. The directions state to work entire panels and not to split them for Mohs, but I had a lot of high spots that way that I didn’t see until now, so I have to polish off. With Skin, it kept re-hazing over on me, even after wiping 5 or 6 times
Seems like lately there has been a couple people reaching out to me about issues with high spots with Mohs. And now Skin. Temperature has a lot to do with how a coating behaves. I would recommend using more than one towel. Skin is a wipe on wipe off application.
@@MikeGDetailing I ended up re polishing and re coating. Working small sections with Mohs as you did yielded much better results and much easier application. Temperature was about 72 degrees the first time around but humidity was very high, around 80% or 90%. I had no issues with Skin the second time around. I think it was either too humid, or I was too close to the 2 hour limit and Mohs was simply rejecting it. Either way, I have valuable experience and didn’t do any permanent damage. Also, I used about 5 coating removal towels per coat and 1 Eagle Edgeless for a final wipe.
I've watched both videos on Mohs and Pure EVO. I've got a new car on order, its in a Pearl White Metallic, its more white then cream coloured. I know Pure = candy, Mohs = clarity. The problem I've been over thinking is that I've got an Xpel PPF on the main impact/contact areas. Leaving the doors, rear of the car (roof has a vinyl carbon fibre finish) with factory paint. So I'm wondering can I use Mohs on the PPF and vinyl along with the plastic headlamps and plastic trim? You mentioned with Pure you put some on the headlamps, wheels on your brothers car. I'm still thinking Mohs syncro for the additional protection and long-term benefits over Pure, But Pure would make the paint look amazing. I just want to get around the idea of buying Gyeon Trim, Rim and PPF coating. Mohs has a higher temperature resistance and suits wheels, brakes and exhaust tips. I'm trying to determine what would be best for the whole car, plastics, trims PPF and wheels between Mohs and Pure or even if its possible? You've had a feel for both products, what's your opinion?
From what I was told by the Gyeon representative is that Pure would do better on trim. It will work fine on wheels. If you were tracking your car then a higher temperature resistant coating would be the way to go. If it’s a daily driver a paint coating will do just fine. Add a second layer in the wheels for a little increase in durability.
@@MikeGDetailing Thanks Mike, you advise is invaluable 👍. Lots to thinks about, but I'm steering to Pure, based on its better on trims and PPF from what I can gather. Also in your video, you said Pure looks insane with a Can Coat topper. This appeals to me as I absolutely love the 'sheeting' effects from the hydrophobic properties of Can Coat. I might get Pure in the kit as Cure might have some benefits 🤷
Have a white car and love the slickness of MOHS but love the glass look. Torn between MOHS and Pure. Do you think there would be much difference in gloss by eye between the 2, being white?
You want the more durable product as the base layer. Best to just stay with Mohs. If I were to do it again I would just do Mohs and skip Syncro. Syncro is better than the previous version but still a bit underwhelming.
If you are after that candy gloss then go Pure. The Gyeon representative mentioned a second coats adds more gloss. Syncro comes close with the help of Skin but Mohs looks more natural.
@@MikeGDetailing my paint is black also. I think I will do pure since I’m looking for that glassy gloss look mirror finish but you stated that skin brings it close to this kind of look?
@@MikeGDetailing thanks! I am applying my first Syncro EVO on my new car now. Never coated anything before, but this product is SO EASY to apply (at least MOHS, haven’t started Skin yet)! 😊
Mohs is super easy. Skin is a little tricky as it goes on kind of thick. Wipe in and wipe off to not have issues. It will take away the slickness of Mohs though.
Hi, I have a question. I have a BMW with carbon black metallic paint (dark blue during the day, black at night) I currently have the Cquartz 3.0uk on it. But I want something new! What do you mean? Should I rather use the Gyeon Pure Evo or Syncro Evo? Or the Mohs Evo? I hope you can help me further! Best regards from Vienna.
Pure is an SiO2 coating like CQUK UK. If you like that look where the paint is dipped in glass then get Pure. Mohs is another good option especially with how slick it is. It won’t give that dipped in glass look but more crisp. Depends on what look you are after.
@@dmakiniko3991 Syncro is good. If you like slickness then leave Mohs by itself. Skin is now SiO2 and is tacky. It does help give that dipped in glass look but not as much as Pure.
@@dmakiniko3991 enjoy it. It is a good choice and looks great on darker vehicles. The Gyoen rep told me that a second layer will add even more candy gloss. It is 1 hour in between layers.
1 layer of each is all that is recommended. This was a a big change with Syncro Evo than the original. Saves more time and performs better. I will be upfront that it won't last 5 years. I lost my video but at the 1 year mark it started to have dead spots where it lost hydrophobic behavior. If I was to use Gyeon coatings again, I would just do two layers of Mohs Evo and call it a day.
@@MikeGDetailing ah man! Yeah I just threw on 2 mohs and 1 skin on a client who was aiming for 5 years so hopefully they can at least get 4 years of maintenanced properly. Do you think the skin topper ruins the longevity, is that why you say just use 2 mohs?
@LanceWilliamson8 skin evo takes away the slickness and it still fall short of what I expect for its performance. I would expect it to perform better with no loss in hydrophobic behavior for at least a couple years. It’s definitely better than previous version.
@@MikeGDetailing ahh I understand. So you don’t think 2 layers of mohs and a 3rd layer of skin can get at least close to 4 years if maintained properly?
Mike. I applied 2 layers of Mohs. Would CanCoat be able to be used as a topper say a month or so down the line? Or should it be applied. Within 24-48 hours only?
Can you explain a little more what you mean by “candy” appearance vs “crisp”? The reason I ask is because I have one new BMW that I want to be as glossy and eye catching as possible, and one older 90s BMW that I’d prefer kept a bit more wax-like in appearance. I was thinking of doing Pure for the highest gloss and Mohs on the older one. Any advice?
You are spot on with your thinking. Pure will give that candy gloss look like if the paint is dipped in glass. Mohs will give the more natural look without that high candy gloss like Pure. Mohs will still give gloss just more natural.
@@MikeGDetailing Thank you for your quick reply and information. I just found your channel and am really enjoying the reviews and your insights. If you don’t mind, I have one other question: can I put Pure and/or Mohs on my windows? I think I remember you mentioned it in one of your videos but I’ve watched so many of them in the last few days I can’t find where you talked about it. Thanks again 🤝
I hate being critical but 28 minutes of this is absurd. Why do testers think that talking painfully slow and repeating things over and over to stretch the length of the video is somehow a good thing? This should have been 5 minutes of organized and condensed content. The best presenters understand the average viewer can’t sit through a half hour of “uhh…aaand…uhhh”
Part 2 covers the application of Skin Evo which is the top coat in the Gyeon Syncro Evo kit. Bonus content at the end of this one. For the slickness test see the end of Part 1 ruclips.net/video/YuoGtftMHFk/видео.html&ab_channel=MikeG
Mike what is your Instagram?
~14:00 On the application thing to see high spots. Pro tip: shine the light against the wall instead and you’ll make the highspots VERY visible. It works for me on the shop with black walls and has also worked at home with grey and yellow walls as well as brown. Dunno how it’ll do with white but I assume it’ll be better than directly shining the inspection light on it. I have those same lights, a scangrip multimatch R which is that gyeon reskinned one u have and an astro 50sl which is the handheld light. Love both of em. Got the scangrip version as well and the i-match. Love the scangrip line.
Awesome, thanks for sharing these processes with us. Look forward to the first wash/beading tests!
Can't wait for the water test video , I have been looking at the new gyeon coatings and I'm waiting for my detail shop that carries gyeon to get this order with the new stuff. Thanks for doing the videos man.
Same here. I just hope it’s better than the previous version.
car looks incredible. Seems like this version of MOHS is great!.
Just used Syncro kit on my 2017 Mazda 6 Soul Red. I was aware that the SKIN is not as slick as MOHS and I was OK with it. But after applying SKIN I was so disappointed (and I think I can hear disappointment in your voice too). I'm not sure if instead of SKIN, I should have applied a second layer of MOHS...
A week later I applied Gyeon CURE and it darkened the paint further. It seems like a great maintenance product. Overall I am kinda happy with Gyeon Syncro kit. The paint looks amazing now. I'm just not sure what's the SKIN's purpose there, opposite of 2nd layer of MOHS...
Skin was a let down. It took away from the slickness of Mohs. After my year of testing Syncro Evo, yes it was better than the previous version but Skin still had signs of failure on various areas. It was designed with SiO2 to be more durable and chemical resistant but it still didn’t perform that well. There is no way this will last 5 years without topping it.
I would and do recommend just 2 layers of Mohs rather than Synchro.
Gyeon is making me really want to switch from Gtechniq CSL & EXO V4 but I've yet to find a coating that can beat CSL in slickness. Any experience w/ this new MOHS vs CSL? Nice video!
Yes. Part 1 covers the new Mohs application. And yes I have used CSL. Mohs will beat it in slickness and hydrophobic behavior.
Great videos.
Would syncro be able to go over brake lights/headlights?
I read somewhere someone using a suede wipe for the final leveling, could that be a good option for skin?
You can use it on headlights and brake lights. I used the same type of coating towels I use LC with mohs and it worked fine.
Would love to see an update if this after a year of application, did you do a hydrophobic test after as I can’t find another video, apart from the walk around.
Thanks & great video by the way 👍
Unfortunately I do not have a 1 year update and synchro has been off the car for almost a year at this point. I will say Evo was much better than the previous version. If I were to use Gyeon coatings again I would just use Mohs. That is by far their best coating next to CanCoat.
Hi, i Just read the instruction manual for the gyeon syncro kit that i am doing now. And it says wait minimum 1 houre between each layer of MOSH and you must wait a minimum of 4 hours between the MOSH and Skin. FYI 😊
That’s the older version. The new Evo version does not require that long wait time. Huge improvement for time savings.
ruclips.net/video/EcwnvASzXUs/видео.html
What would you pick between mohs Evo or pure Evo for ease of use etc . Want something really easy to use
You would be ok with either one. They are both user friendly. Pure has the longer flash time just in case you get interrupted. Up to 10 minutes. This one rainbows. 2-3 minutes seems to be a good time to wipe off.
Mohs has the section by section and will do the sweating effect to let you know when it is time to wipe off.
If you want that candy coated gloss look then get Pure. If you want that more crisp look and slickness then just get Mohs.
@@MikeGDetailing thanks for your reply . Is wipe off with pure as easy as mohs . I hated the old version of pure .
@@davida7713 yeah pure wipes off smooth. Mohs is easier but not by much.
@@MikeGDetailing as for water behaviour ie beading is pure Evo better than mohs ?
@@davida7713 both bead very well. Nobody would know the difference between the two.
Is Skin Evo just Can Coat Evo in a smaller bottle? Both are wipe on wipe off immediately
I don’t believe so. CanCoat seems to have better performance than skin though.
I tried to install Syncro Evo yesterday and had a lot of issues. The directions state to work entire panels and not to split them for Mohs, but I had a lot of high spots that way that I didn’t see until now, so I have to polish off. With Skin, it kept re-hazing over on me, even after wiping 5 or 6 times
Seems like lately there has been a couple people reaching out to me about issues with high spots with Mohs. And now Skin. Temperature has a lot to do with how a coating behaves. I would recommend using more than one towel. Skin is a wipe on wipe off application.
@@MikeGDetailing I ended up re polishing and re coating. Working small sections with Mohs as you did yielded much better results and much easier application. Temperature was about 72 degrees the first time around but humidity was very high, around 80% or 90%. I had no issues with Skin the second time around. I think it was either too humid, or I was too close to the 2 hour limit and Mohs was simply rejecting it. Either way, I have valuable experience and didn’t do any permanent damage. Also, I used about 5 coating removal towels per coat and 1 Eagle Edgeless for a final wipe.
@@TheMstwntdLMSV123 nice to hear you got it to work properly. The humidity is more than likely the cause.
I've watched both videos on Mohs and Pure EVO. I've got a new car on order, its in a Pearl White Metallic, its more white then cream coloured. I know Pure = candy, Mohs = clarity.
The problem I've been over thinking is that I've got an Xpel PPF on the main impact/contact areas. Leaving the doors, rear of the car (roof has a vinyl carbon fibre finish) with factory paint.
So I'm wondering can I use Mohs on the PPF and vinyl along with the plastic headlamps and plastic trim?
You mentioned with Pure you put some on the headlamps, wheels on your brothers car.
I'm still thinking Mohs syncro for the additional protection and long-term benefits over Pure, But Pure would make the paint look amazing. I just want to get around the idea of buying Gyeon Trim, Rim and PPF coating.
Mohs has a higher temperature resistance and suits wheels, brakes and exhaust tips. I'm trying to determine what would be best for the whole car, plastics, trims PPF and wheels between Mohs and Pure or even if its possible?
You've had a feel for both products, what's your opinion?
From what I was told by the Gyeon representative is that Pure would do better on trim. It will work fine on wheels. If you were tracking your car then a higher temperature resistant coating would be the way to go. If it’s a daily driver a paint coating will do just fine. Add a second layer in the wheels for a little increase in durability.
@@MikeGDetailing Thanks Mike, you advise is invaluable 👍. Lots to thinks about, but I'm steering to Pure, based on its better on trims and PPF from what I can gather. Also in your video, you said Pure looks insane with a Can Coat topper. This appeals to me as I absolutely love the 'sheeting' effects from the hydrophobic properties of Can Coat. I might get Pure in the kit as Cure might have some benefits 🤷
Hey Mike, wondering when the 1 year update to the 2021 coatings video is coming out?
Yeah I need to make an update soon. It’s coming up on a year.
Have a white car and love the slickness of MOHS but love the glass look. Torn between MOHS and Pure. Do you think there would be much difference in gloss by eye between the 2, being white?
With white probably not much of a noticeable difference. It is the hardest color to get that wow factor.
@@MikeGDetailing that's what I thought, thanks for the reply man
Mike - Have you tried using SKIN as the basecoat and then topping with MOHS so you can keep the slickness?
You want the more durable product as the base layer. Best to just stay with Mohs. If I were to do it again I would just do Mohs and skip Syncro. Syncro is better than the previous version but still a bit underwhelming.
@@MikeGDetailing Thanks
@@MikeGDetailing Have you tried to top Synchro or MOHS with Gyeon Q2 Wax? If so, any thoughts on the durability of Q2 WAX?
I’m coating my Mercedes s430 soon. I got both coatings pure and syncro kit. For more gloss and pop should I coat with pure?
If you are after that candy gloss then go Pure. The Gyeon representative mentioned a second coats adds more gloss. Syncro comes close with the help of Skin but Mohs looks more natural.
@@MikeGDetailing my paint is black also. I think I will do pure since I’m looking for that glassy gloss look mirror finish but you stated that skin brings it close to this kind of look?
@@DatDudeDEnd close since Skin is now silica based. Won’t be as glassy as Pure
Do you use the same pair of towels for Mohs and Skin, or do you use a fresh pair of towels when applying Skin?
Always fresh towels for each product and a fresh applicator.
@@MikeGDetailing thanks! I am applying my first Syncro EVO on my new car now. Never coated anything before, but this product is SO EASY to apply (at least MOHS, haven’t started Skin yet)! 😊
Mohs is super easy. Skin is a little tricky as it goes on kind of thick. Wipe in and wipe off to not have issues. It will take away the slickness of Mohs though.
Hi, I have a question. I have a BMW with carbon black metallic paint (dark blue during the day, black at night) I currently have the Cquartz 3.0uk on it. But I want something new! What do you mean? Should I rather use the Gyeon Pure Evo or Syncro Evo? Or the Mohs Evo? I hope you can help me further! Best regards from Vienna.
Pure is an SiO2 coating like CQUK UK. If you like that look where the paint is dipped in glass then get Pure. Mohs is another good option especially with how slick it is. It won’t give that dipped in glass look but more crisp. Depends on what look you are after.
@@MikeGDetailing ok my friend, and the Syncro evo? Thanks for the answer.
@@dmakiniko3991 Syncro is good. If you like slickness then leave Mohs by itself. Skin is now SiO2 and is tacky. It does help give that dipped in glass look but not as much as Pure.
@@MikeGDetailing ok i think i buy the Pure evo.
Thanks 🙏
@@dmakiniko3991 enjoy it. It is a good choice and looks great on darker vehicles. The Gyoen rep told me that a second layer will add even more candy gloss. It is 1 hour in between layers.
Coating caddy link? Awesome work.
Instagram would be the best way to get in touch with the maker of them.
instagram.com/bb_detailing/
@@MikeGDetailing thanks!
Here’s the email just in case you don’t have Instagram
deucekid@sbcglobal.net
So I need to do 2 layers of mohs and 1 of skin to get **5 yrs**?
1 layer of each is all that is recommended. This was a a big change with Syncro Evo than the original. Saves more time and performs better. I will be upfront that it won't last 5 years. I lost my video but at the 1 year mark it started to have dead spots where it lost hydrophobic behavior. If I was to use Gyeon coatings again, I would just do two layers of Mohs Evo and call it a day.
@@MikeGDetailing ah man! Yeah I just threw on 2 mohs and 1 skin on a client who was aiming for 5 years so hopefully they can at least get 4 years of maintenanced properly. Do you think the skin topper ruins the longevity, is that why you say just use 2 mohs?
@LanceWilliamson8 skin evo takes away the slickness and it still fall short of what I expect for its performance. I would expect it to perform better with no loss in hydrophobic behavior for at least a couple years. It’s definitely better than previous version.
@@MikeGDetailing ahh I understand. So you don’t think 2 layers of mohs and a 3rd layer of skin can get at least close to 4 years if maintained properly?
Mike. I applied 2 layers of Mohs. Would CanCoat be able to be used as a topper say a month or so down the line? Or should it be applied. Within 24-48 hours only?
Use it a year later as a maintenance topper. Enjoy Mohs on its own
@@MikeGDetailing Great. Thanks Mike.
@@wescat2 you will find out after the first wash that you won’t need CanCoat anytime soon.
@@MikeGDetailing I appreciate the advice. What is your go to maintenance soap? Something like Carpro or Gyeon Restart or Bathe+?
@@wescat2 I’m not a user of ceramic infused soap. Reset would be a good option.
Can you explain a little more what you mean by “candy” appearance vs “crisp”? The reason I ask is because I have one new BMW that I want to be as glossy and eye catching as possible, and one older 90s BMW that I’d prefer kept a bit more wax-like in appearance. I was thinking of doing Pure for the highest gloss and Mohs on the older one. Any advice?
You are spot on with your thinking. Pure will give that candy gloss look like if the paint is dipped in glass. Mohs will give the more natural look without that high candy gloss like Pure. Mohs will still give gloss just more natural.
@@MikeGDetailing Thank you for your quick reply and information. I just found your channel and am really enjoying the reviews and your insights. If you don’t mind, I have one other question: can I put Pure and/or Mohs on my windows? I think I remember you mentioned it in one of your videos but I’ve watched so many of them in the last few days I can’t find where you talked about it. Thanks again 🤝
I was told no. I have have not tried it but I think on side glass it would be ok.
@@MikeGDetailing I will be the guinea pig lol
I hate being critical but 28 minutes of this is absurd. Why do testers think that talking painfully slow and repeating things over and over to stretch the length of the video is somehow a good thing? This should have been 5 minutes of organized and condensed content. The best presenters understand the average viewer can’t sit through a half hour of “uhh…aaand…uhhh”
It’s simple. Don’t watch.
lol why comment just click next. If you have nothing nice to say don’t say it at all