I hope everyone realizes that in videos like this you give us, free of charge, at least a year's apprenticeship in woodworking. Besides invaluable hand tool technique we learn from you how to care about what you do. We learn to be meticulous woodworkers but not perfectionists. I am grateful every time I watch and will try to repay you by supporting your products.
Rob, when I am making a picture frame, I double face tape the two parallel side together. Then , when I cut and shoot the miters, I know that the two parallel sides are exactly the same length. It saves time and makes the operation extremely accurate. Thanks for all of your videos. They are the best.
Dialing-in late. My family is distributing food in support of a local charity. I look forward to ordering one. Thanks. I love the Cosman shooting boards. Just ordered minis for the grand kids.
I thought: “45 minute video for a simple picture frame? What the hell, I’ll watch it and see what he tells the novices and think about how I would do it better.” I’m glad I did because I learned at least 10 things…maybe 15. I thought I was a perfectionist but the back of Rob’s frame is better than the front of most of mine. When he brought out the iron to steam out a planer track on the back side of the frame I bowed down and said “we’re not worthy!” 😂
Thanks to your videos I made my first shooting board. Its long enough to use my #7 instead of %62 low angle. ( would be $ 175.00 richer) if I had watched your low angle against the Woodriver 5 1/2. My Stanley # 5 is my go to. 1 more thing thank you for all the information on sharpening. I use the Trend 300 / 1000 and the Shapton 16000. All I and my helper can say is buy band aids. We are impressed. Thanks again and keep 'em coming.
Thank you Rob for sharing your in-depth techniques on how to woodwork, it's so helpful to me because I don't have 20 or 30 years to learn every trick in the book and your instruction really helps accelerate my learning curve!
I've tried several clamping methods but this one is new to me. I will try it. Shooting board is a must for joints that disappear. I've made a lot of frames and they are great for gifts especially if the picture or artwork being framed has some special meaning to the recipient. Nice video
Had to smile when you ironed out that compression. Just yesterday I did the same thing on a piece of maple for my latest dovetail box. Worked great! I learned it from one of your Tips & Tricks vids a while ago! Thanks for that and another nice video. Cheers!
Rob you are really a true craftsmanship and take pride in your work.i dont usually watch videos beyond 25mns but yours paysoff and satisfying to watch beyond that, good job rob as always💯💯👌🇧🇿
Rob thanks.....I've made many picture frames, cutting rebates with my own made rebate plane...with depth stops....using a sticking board.......mitres on a chop saw then on to 45deg shooting board using a record T5 plane.....like yours but with a handle on side... handle was missing so turned one on lathe.....lucky I had a bolt to match thread....from my box of bits ( old toilet cistern bolt) Corner splines cut on my kitty K5 spindle moulder. I cannot get on with my Stanley straps on a frame as thin as yours....slip off!! BUT YOUR CLAMPING DEVICE IS ABSO SUPERB. AND. THE TIP OF ALIGNING VEE CUT TO CENTRE OF MITRE.....REALLY GOOD THANKS......john uk
Great video. FYI - Not sure if this spline jig is still around, but the table saw blade seemed to come very close to the screws on the face of the spline jig.
Great video as always. I make small picture frames and have found that hardwood cocktail sticks make really good mini-pegs for locking the mitres. They are surprisingly strong in shear. My frames are mostly made of a combination of maple and mahogany.
As always, a great presentation. One suggestion though. Considering the quality of the workmanship in the frame itself, a consideration to the paper and the mounting of the artwork or photograph. Paper in such a quality piece should best be archival. Likewise, the mounting material should also be archival. Cardboard is acidic and whatever art is inside, eventually will deteriorate over time disintegrating the art. In short, this piece is museum quality and built for generations to come, perhaps thousands of years. The art inside it might last just as long. So, whatever goes into it really complements the frame and vice versa. Also, there are some kinds of plexiglass and glass that are ultraviolet light protective for the art going into the frame. There are products that will help neutralize the acids in paper and cardboard, but in my view, it's best to avoid acid papers and mounting materials. I had to watch this again and still enjoy the thought, technique and artistry that goes into it all. Great videography and sound.
Don’t forget it needs to be kept in total darkness in an oxygen-free vacuum chamber. I’m just kidding: It’s not a Van Eyck original from the Renaissance period; it’s a promo photo from a trade show. If it starts to turn a little yellow in 300 years they can just print out another one on the old Savin 6700 or whatever kind of quantum 4D printers they have in the year 2325. And if it ever does make it into the Louvre they have experts there who can restore it by hand. Back to the topic of fine woodworking…
I often bead and bevel the front of the frame with planes, a no. 45 and or a no. 66. I usually do that by choosing on long piece of wood and adding any decorative milling before I cut it into pieces to keep the whole thing consistent. Also, I have learned to mark my cuts by making sure the making the lengths of the back wall of the rebates slightly longer than the length of the side of the artwork. That way I'm not trimming the artwork.
😳😳 I'm so glad Rob doest look my work over, I don't sell things mind you I do stuff for fun, I do make the odd picture frame lol but looking how Rob makes one I would say I don't, I make a square or a rectangular shape thing, that some people stick pictures in 😭 I'm a shamed to say. I'm now off to shoot my table saw and put my miter saw out of its misery 😢
As always, another great video with clear explanations and instructions. I love it when you find things 'gone wrong' and how you explain the solutions to the problems, like that compression point from the thickness planer. Masterfully done. One suggestion for prints some might not be aware of. Some paper, particularly cardboard, is made with acid that can degrade prints. Plexiglass and any backing should be 'archival' if you want to really go for the long term. The videography and the instruction are truly excellent.
Thank you Rob for all of your videos and instruction. Like many others have said, your work really is a free masterclass for us all. I have plans to purchase your saws and some other tools in the future, they really are works of art. One small piece of feedback, some folks like myself don't have the space or, because of noise constraints, can't use power tools. When you use power tools in the future, would you please consider explaining how you would do the work with hand tools as well? Thank you!
What we are trying to do is make a series of videos showing the different ways of doing the same thing. The first one we did was how to cut a dado joint. Next up will be the tenon or the rabbet joint
I love this project! I only wonder why you didn't bother to center the splines - it's a relatively easy step given the amount of care and detail taken for everything else.
Have you done a series on drawer guides I have made cabinets and vanities but struggle with designing or making quality guides. Have even used manufactured steel rails they work but not very nice looking thank you love your work and attention to quality in work and tools
Great video. Question on the slicing cut about 36 min mark. Since you are likely going to break the edges with a chamfer, can you put a slight chamfer at the end to help avoid break out on the edge fibers?
Rather than an iron, I use a heat gun for dents. Moisten as shown, then hit it with the heat for 10-15 seconds. I find it works better, and it's faster than heating an iron up.
I always pick up something from your videos I've heard about that water trick to remove dents and imperfections but never tried it, very nice. Also that old 14" band saw sure runs smooth is it a General ?
Great video, but gets complicated if you only have basic hand tools, I think (cutting the grooves for the splines). Wouldn't it be easier and as strong to do a basic half lap, mitre joint, the surface area would surely be big enough to make a very strong joint?
Rob, at about the 35-minute mark you laid your block plane down on its side. Then you did it again a minute or so later. You always lay your bench planes down on the sole, and have given good reasons for doing so. So why did you lay your block plane on its side? Old habit, or is there a thought process behind this?
Hi Rob, a problem I seem to have is trying to plane the front once glued together because the plane scuffs across the grain on the opposing edge. If I finish plane the pieces before glue up then I find it really difficult to get a perfectly smooth join on the face i.e. without a slight lip one way or the other. Any ideas? Also if I try to finish the face surface before glue up it inevitably gets dirty with all the handling and marred with glue squeeze out. It's so hard to get a perfect result!
I have a question on a tool used. At 14:57 rob brings out a set of shims, right around 15 min he says he is using 26000. Can I get more info on that handy tool, I didn't see it on the site. Thanks
AND some people will still not understand how some mass produced stapled piece of sh*t costs 5 times less than something created by hand with skill, care, attention to detail and above all respect for the materials.
Why would he do that for video editing when it takes you no more than 5.7 seconds to find out exactly what he means. Google it, you dont even have to be looking for calculators anymore just put your dimension straight into google "2 inch to mm" very first search result will be a calculator with your dimension already converted. It makes no sense for this channel to give conversions as you are not goint to be dimensioning your work piece to 50.8mm for example, its going to be either 50 or 55 or 40 or 60, it isnt a set of plans we are working of 😊. Paul is from UK and everything over there has been metric for a very long time now. And yes, before you type that coment, they still have imperial in jargon and it actually makes sense its much easier to refer to full sheet of plywood as 8x4 (foot) rather than two thousand four hundred and forty by one thousand two hundred and twenty milimeters 😁, or 2.4 by 1.2M. Same with other building materials.
@@bigkiv47 I am actually. Since I started "stalking" all wood working channels I notice same question asked over and over, no harm done if person gets inspired for a bit of "philosophy". What is the purpose of your comment?
@@bluewanderer9903 you clearly didn't understand the question and I wasn't looking for some show off answer which tells me to google it and makes no sence at all. Also I still rather say 1mm than 0.0393701 Inch
Forgot to measure the diagonals to check for square! Planing the insides of only 2 diagonally opposite miters would have lengthened the diagonal in that direction, whilst shortening the other diagonal. That results in a parallelogram rather than a rectangle. So yeah, they sure are lovely tight perfect-looking mitres...but the frame isn't "square". .
Thanks for the video guys. I can use it for my next frame. Just finished one yesterday for one of your certificates you awarded to the suppliers of PHP m material. It will be on my Instagram, Papadoodle46.
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You know you've found the right channel when you think 'that's a really nice planer'.. Also, prize for most jigs used whilst making a picture frame 👍
I hope everyone realizes that in videos like this you give us, free of charge, at least a year's apprenticeship in woodworking. Besides invaluable hand tool technique we learn from you how to care about what you do. We learn to be meticulous woodworkers but not perfectionists. I am grateful every time I watch and will try to repay you by supporting your products.
Agreed. The way he fixed that blemish on the wood with water and hot iron was simply awesome!
Rob, when I am making a picture frame, I double face tape the two parallel side together. Then , when I cut and shoot the miters, I know that the two parallel sides are exactly the same length. It saves time and makes the operation extremely accurate. Thanks for all of your videos. They are the best.
There is something soothing about that hand plane
The water trick to get rid of the pressure mark is just brilliant. :)
Dialing-in late. My family is distributing food in support of a local charity.
I look forward to ordering one. Thanks. I love the Cosman shooting boards. Just ordered minis for the grand kids.
You have got to have made picture frames to really appreciate and understand Robs work.....superb....so many instructions
Same as ever , , , , , beginners project- becomes an heirloom piece! Just sooooo good to be on the receiving end of these tutorials 👍
What a legacy of woodworking and tuition excellence. Outstanding.
Thank you Mr Cosman, and greetings from the Philippines
I thought: “45 minute video for a simple picture frame? What the hell, I’ll watch it and see what he tells the novices and think about how I would do it better.”
I’m glad I did because I learned at least 10 things…maybe 15. I thought I was a perfectionist but the back of Rob’s frame is better than the front of most of mine.
When he brought out the iron to steam out a planer track on the back side of the frame I bowed down and said “we’re not worthy!” 😂
Morning Rob, always nice to start the day with a video
Thanks to your videos I made my first shooting board. Its long enough to use my #7 instead of %62 low angle. ( would be $ 175.00 richer) if I had watched your low angle against the Woodriver 5 1/2. My Stanley # 5 is my go to. 1 more thing thank you for all the information on sharpening. I use the Trend 300 / 1000 and the Shapton 16000. All I and my helper can say is buy band aids. We are impressed. Thanks again and keep 'em
coming.
Thank you Rob for sharing your in-depth techniques on how to woodwork, it's so helpful to me because I don't have 20 or 30 years to learn every trick in the book and your instruction really helps accelerate my learning curve!
I've tried several clamping methods but this one is new to me. I will try it. Shooting board is a must for joints that disappear. I've made a lot of frames and they are great for gifts especially if the picture or artwork being framed has some special meaning to the recipient. Nice video
Lion Miter trimmer, I can't say enough about this tool. I've made a lot of frames, they are what got me started in woodworking. Great video Rob!
Had to smile when you ironed out that compression. Just yesterday I did the same thing on a piece of maple for my latest dovetail box. Worked great! I learned it from one of your Tips & Tricks vids a while ago! Thanks for that and another nice video. Cheers!
Wonderful. I have frames in my future and tips here will help me do a better job. Thanks.
Wonderful tutorial. Thank you from Ireland.
Wow... nice work.. Rob, that hand plane work is amazing..
Thanks for this very informative video, Rob. Well done!
Love to start my day with a good video before work.
Thanks Rob and team 👍
Rob you are really a true craftsmanship and take pride in your work.i dont usually watch videos beyond 25mns but yours paysoff and satisfying to watch beyond that, good job rob as always💯💯👌🇧🇿
Rob thanks.....I've made many picture frames, cutting rebates with my own made rebate plane...with depth stops....using a sticking board.......mitres on a chop saw then on to 45deg shooting board using a record T5 plane.....like yours but with a handle on side... handle was missing so turned one on lathe.....lucky I had a bolt to match thread....from my box of bits ( old toilet cistern bolt)
Corner splines cut on my kitty K5 spindle moulder.
I cannot get on with my Stanley straps on a frame as thin as yours....slip off!!
BUT YOUR CLAMPING DEVICE IS ABSO SUPERB. AND. THE TIP OF ALIGNING VEE CUT TO CENTRE OF MITRE.....REALLY GOOD THANKS......john uk
Oh forgot to say I use thin or thick wood shavings, where you use shims. John uk
Wow that is apsolutely beautiful.
Great video Rob! I love the little fixes worked into the process too. You're just as handy with a household iron as you are with a plane iron!
Thanks to my mother!
This video demonstration helped me immensely. Thank you!
Brilliant as usual!
great job Rob, as usual. Now just sign it and mail it to me.
We had David write
“To Pat and Troop,
Love always,
Peter”
@@RobCosmanWoodworking haha, ole stinky Pete strikes again.
Thanks, Rob. Those shavings from 38:45 are amazing ...
Brilliant as always.
Would you consider a video on how to make a shadow box frame with the compound mitre?
Very nice way to clean up and fit miters. I prefer making a bridle joint with a miter on the front though.
Great video. FYI - Not sure if this spline jig is still around, but the table saw blade seemed to come very close to the screws on the face of the spline jig.
Great video as always. I make small picture frames and have found that hardwood cocktail sticks make really good mini-pegs for locking the mitres. They are surprisingly strong in shear. My frames are mostly made of a combination of maple and mahogany.
Beautiful job Rob, thank you very much.
Another great video. You are a true woodworking artist.
As always, a great presentation. One suggestion though. Considering the quality of the workmanship in the frame itself, a consideration to the paper and the mounting of the artwork or photograph. Paper in such a quality piece should best be archival. Likewise, the mounting material should also be archival. Cardboard is acidic and whatever art is inside, eventually will deteriorate over time disintegrating the art. In short, this piece is museum quality and built for generations to come, perhaps thousands of years. The art inside it might last just as long. So, whatever goes into it really complements the frame and vice versa. Also, there are some kinds of plexiglass and glass that are ultraviolet light protective for the art going into the frame. There are products that will help neutralize the acids in paper and cardboard, but in my view, it's best to avoid acid papers and mounting materials. I had to watch this again and still enjoy the thought, technique and artistry that goes into it all. Great videography and sound.
Don’t forget it needs to be kept in total darkness in an oxygen-free vacuum chamber. I’m just kidding: It’s not a Van Eyck original from the Renaissance period; it’s a promo photo from a trade show. If it starts to turn a little yellow in 300 years they can just print out another one on the old Savin 6700 or whatever kind of quantum 4D printers they have in the year 2325. And if it ever does make it into the Louvre they have experts there who can restore it by hand. Back to the topic of fine woodworking…
@@wulf67 Well said and agreed.
Thanks for sharing those tips!
I often bead and bevel the front of the frame with planes, a no. 45 and or a no. 66. I usually do that by choosing on long piece of wood and adding any decorative milling before I cut it into pieces to keep the whole thing consistent. Also, I have learned to mark my cuts by making sure the making the lengths of the back wall of the rebates slightly longer than the length of the side of the artwork. That way I'm not trimming the artwork.
😳😳 I'm so glad Rob doest look my work over, I don't sell things mind you I do stuff for fun, I do make the odd picture frame lol but looking how Rob makes one I would say I don't, I make a square or a rectangular shape thing, that some people stick pictures in 😭 I'm a shamed to say. I'm now off to shoot my table saw and put my miter saw out of its misery 😢
As always, another great video with clear explanations and instructions. I love it when you find things 'gone wrong' and how you explain the solutions to the problems, like that compression point from the thickness planer. Masterfully done. One suggestion for prints some might not be aware of. Some paper, particularly cardboard, is made with acid that can degrade prints. Plexiglass and any backing should be 'archival' if you want to really go for the long term. The videography and the instruction are truly excellent.
Thank you Rob for all of your videos and instruction. Like many others have said, your work really is a free masterclass for us all. I have plans to purchase your saws and some other tools in the future, they really are works of art.
One small piece of feedback, some folks like myself don't have the space or, because of noise constraints, can't use power tools. When you use power tools in the future, would you please consider explaining how you would do the work with hand tools as well? Thank you!
What we are trying to do is make a series of videos showing the different ways of doing the same thing. The first one we did was how to cut a dado joint. Next up will be the tenon or the rabbet joint
You are a genius
Nice bruise on your arm there Rob. Great video by the way! Thanks!
Looks cool . impressive . Izabella
I love this project! I only wonder why you didn't bother to center the splines - it's a relatively easy step given the amount of care and detail taken for everything else.
As an artist I drew pictures of city scenes using broad stroke pencil techniques and my one tool was a knife.
Thank you teach. Great
Hey rob, I love your episodes! Are you able to make an episode on how you get your 45degree shooting board set up perfectly?
😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑😑
Have you done a series on drawer guides I have made cabinets and vanities but struggle with designing or making quality guides. Have even used manufactured steel rails they work but not very nice looking thank you love your work and attention to quality in work and tools
Hey, Rob thanks for the tips. What are your thoughts on half lap mitre joints is there any benefit or consequence compared to the splined mitre?
Thanks for another great video. Is there another way to cut the spline slot if you don't have a table saw?
Pree-cision!
Great video. Question on the slicing cut about 36 min mark. Since you are likely going to break the edges with a chamfer, can you put a slight chamfer at the end to help avoid break out on the edge fibers?
Is there a video available on how to make a floating frame for oil paintings?
I was just thinking "Does he realize that that is the back side?" Just before he said "For a back side of a picture frame that's pretty good."
Rather than an iron, I use a heat gun for dents. Moisten as shown, then hit it with the heat for 10-15 seconds. I find it works better, and it's faster than heating an iron up.
Great video! Could you show how to cut the spline groove with a hand tool? I don't have a table saw......yet
I always pick up something from your videos I've heard about that water trick to remove dents and imperfections but never tried it, very nice. Also that old 14" band saw sure runs smooth is it a General ?
Great video, but gets complicated if you only have basic hand tools, I think (cutting the grooves for the splines). Wouldn't it be easier and as strong to do a basic half lap, mitre joint, the surface area would surely be big enough to make a very strong joint?
Hi Rob, nice work. Have you ever considered non-reflective Plexiglass? Not only is it light and non-reflective, but tends to show scratches less.
I get my plexi or Perspex from charity shop frames...john uk
Rob, at about the 35-minute mark you laid your block plane down on its side. Then you did it again a minute or so later. You always lay your bench planes down on the sole, and have given good reasons for doing so. So why did you lay your block plane on its side? Old habit, or is there a thought process behind this?
Can you do a video showing how to make a fancier frame with a decorative profile? Or a baroque frame maybe?
If this simple flat frame needs a 45 minutes video, the one you ask maybe will be material for 10 video series. 🤔
Hi Rob, a problem I seem to have is trying to plane the front once glued together because the plane scuffs across the grain on the opposing edge. If I finish plane the pieces before glue up then I find it really difficult to get a perfectly smooth join on the face i.e. without a slight lip one way or the other. Any ideas?
Also if I try to finish the face surface before glue up it inevitably gets dirty with all the handling and marred with glue squeeze out. It's so hard to get a perfect result!
Rob, when can i get one of those mitre shooting boards? Looks great. Would love to have that in a mini! all the best, Charlie
Should be released Monday. See you tomorrow night Charlie.
Can you do such a cut without a table saw? As in, is there a way to get the same resulting strong frame without using a table saw?
I really want to buy that calendar!!! Is it for sale Rob?
I'm off to make a spline jig .... thanks!
How did you figure out what size cabinet to make for your tools
I have a question on a tool used. At 14:57 rob brings out a set of shims, right around 15 min he says he is using 26000. Can I get more info on that handy tool, I didn't see it on the site. Thanks
Rob was using a feeler gauge. You can find one for
Did I notice a bruise on the underside of Rob’s right forearm ?
Does anyone have an update on when Rob will have his Miter Shooting board out.
AND some people will still not understand how some mass produced stapled piece of sh*t costs 5 times less than something created by hand with skill, care, attention to detail and above all respect for the materials.
Hi Rob, great video as always. I wondered if the mitre shooing board is ever so slightly out of true resulting in the gaps?
What is that tiny plane you used at 43:30 to take the sharp edges off?
A Lie-Nielsen squirrel tail plane
Hello there is there any chance you could add conversion to metric dimensions for example like in Paul Sellers videos ?
Why would he do that for video editing when it takes you no more than 5.7 seconds to find out exactly what he means. Google it, you dont even have to be looking for calculators anymore just put your dimension straight into google "2 inch to mm" very first search result will be a calculator with your dimension already converted.
It makes no sense for this channel to give conversions as you are not goint to be dimensioning your work piece to 50.8mm for example, its going to be either 50 or 55 or 40 or 60, it isnt a set of plans we are working of 😊.
Paul is from UK and everything over there has been metric for a very long time now. And yes, before you type that coment, they still have imperial in jargon and it actually makes sense its much easier to refer to full sheet of plywood as 8x4 (foot) rather than two thousand four hundred and forty by one thousand two hundred and twenty milimeters 😁, or 2.4 by 1.2M. Same with other building materials.
@@bluewanderer9903 damn mate... just a simple "google it mate..." would have sufficed. You must be a fun guy at parties lol
@@bigkiv47 I am actually.
Since I started "stalking" all wood working channels I notice same question asked over and over, no harm done if person gets inspired for a bit of "philosophy".
What is the purpose of your comment?
@@bluewanderer9903 you clearly didn't understand the question and I wasn't looking for some show off answer which tells me to google it and makes no sence at all. Also I still rather say 1mm than 0.0393701 Inch
That goes both ways though, I’d rather say “one thou” than “0.0254 of a mm”
how to make picture frame jig for miter cuts
👌
I would use my drum sander then every thing is smooth
Forgot to measure the diagonals to check for square!
Planing the insides of only 2 diagonally opposite miters would have lengthened the diagonal in that direction, whilst shortening the other diagonal. That results in a parallelogram rather than a rectangle.
So yeah, they sure are lovely tight perfect-looking mitres...but the frame isn't "square". .
I think a picture frame is one of the most deceptively difficult jobs in wood working.
Thanks for the video guys. I can use it for my next frame. Just finished one yesterday for one of your certificates you awarded to the suppliers of PHP m material. It will be on my Instagram, Papadoodle46.
You cut a lot of corners. Hehe
Birds mouth