Correction for the formula, it is correct on screen but I said plus the dado groove width and I should have said minus. The formula is also in the description so feel free to copy it and write it down for future reference, or bookmark this video and come back to it for your next framing project.
Took me a while to figure it out. I used to do way more math and get it wrong half the time until I figured this formula out and now it's super easy, especially since it's based on the artwork and the size of your frame pieces so the picture always fits.
That's great to hear! I struggled for a long time until I figured out this formula and now the frames always come out spot on, but one thing I didn't mention was I always test to make sure the picture will fit before glue up. Just in case.
Like someone else said, I also took a screenshot of the formula. I’m sure it will save me a headache down the road. Loved watching the video over my morning coffee!
You have a great table saw. Use that to square the edges. Dado can be made on a table saw in 2 passes even with a regular blade. The way you cut the spline slot is pretty great!! I have found that it is much easier to sand edges is with a regular vibrating sander or I really just run the frame through my router table with a very sharp flush trim bit. Fast ans very smooth.
I do use the table saw sometimes, and other times I use the router table to joint boards. Depends on the boards and my mood, but the hand plane is the most satisfying. You're right on the dados being done in two passes with a table saw. Doing a depth pass then flipping the board on edge and doing another. I personally don't like that way but I haven't done it on this saw, on my previous saw that method was a little scary given how much parts flexed on that POS. And good tip on sanding! Thanks for sharing.
I know right! Also, I finished the frames and hung them up and my wife's first question was when I'd finish the other three for a different room. Not saying I forgot about them but...
It's way easier than a whole jig and if I can do a task without I jig that's always my preference, just another thing to store. And yes, I'd recommend a zero clearance insert. Makes the cuts cleaner and safer to not have that gap the workpiece can get stuck in.
With a miter saw and a stop block they're pretty darn easy. Without those things it's much harder. Then of course the rabbet can be tricky without the right tools but a table saw or a router or a router table will all make quick work of it!
It's hard to get them done with all those competing priorities, but it's easy to make excuses to put them off too. So there's my philosophizing for the morning and now I'll get back to work :)
Your spline trick was great! I tried holding my frame on the corners and sliding it through the table saw 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️. It worked but i would never do it that again.
Oh boy. That sounds scary. You can also make a jig to do what you're describing but that's another thing you have to make and store. I always prefer a simple method if it exists
@@keatonbeyerwoodworkingha! The spline jig…just gtoo much to do for making splines. I might if I’m making a bunch but i still like your method better.
Hey not sure if you will see this, but the dimensions for the tops and bottoms using the formula, is that the measurement for the long side of the miter? Thank you.
Yes it is! I find it easiest to always measure the long side of the miters because the tape measure has something to hold onto and your stop block, if you are using one, has a reference point. Good question, I should have made that clearer.
@keatonbeyerwoodworking awesome, thanks for the response. I noticed you used mats when framing your wife's art. Are there any particular mats you'd recommend?
The plane will first straighten the edge just like a power jointer does. But in doing so you can be off of square like I was, so by moving the plane over to one side of the board and removing more wood on the high side you bring the edge back to square. It takes time and some practice. It also helps you're taking a little bit off at a time and you can check progress with each pass to see how you're doing. I keep two things with me when I plane, a long level to monitor for straight and a square to check for true. Just check multiple parts of the board when you do it because you can be square in one spot and off in another which just means you should plane the off part. Short version, it's different from using power tools, slower and more concentrated, but a little more fun.
Good thing there's another option I mentioned. I used to make frames with a job site table saw and a thin kerf blade taking a blade width off with each pass. It just takes longer
It's all relative. The first time I ever made a picture frame it was tough and I messed it up in more ways than one. This is the method I use now after figuring it out. Hopefully this video gives you a good starting point to make a few less mistakes than I did when you make your picture frames.
No, just prints. She's had them since she was a kid and they've always been stuffed away in a folder. We wanted to get them out and put them on display.
Yup. A table saw and miter saw. My first ever frames I made with a job site table saw and a cheap Ryobi miter saw. Not quite a whole factory but you definitely need some tools to do woodworking. Glad you liked the frames!
Correction for the formula, it is correct on screen but I said plus the dado groove width and I should have said minus. The formula is also in the description so feel free to copy it and write it down for future reference, or bookmark this video and come back to it for your next framing project.
Zzzzzsssz
that spline trick on the table saw is something I haven't seen before, and is such a good technique! Great video!
It's easy easier than making a jig that barely ever gets used. Thanks!
Very nice job explaining the process and an even better job imposing a sense of importance in our projects with the finite time/motivation we have.
That's right, you can only do so much, so pick what matters. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
2:43 this is SUCH a good idea to scale down evenly to size for prototyping. how the hell have i never considered this haha
Took me a while to figure it out. I used to do way more math and get it wrong half the time until I figured this formula out and now it's super easy, especially since it's based on the artwork and the size of your frame pieces so the picture always fits.
Great video. I'm screenshotting the magic formula because that clicked a lot more easily than Michael Alm's frame video for me. Thanks!
That's great to hear! I struggled for a long time until I figured out this formula and now the frames always come out spot on, but one thing I didn't mention was I always test to make sure the picture will fit before glue up. Just in case.
Like someone else said, I also took a screenshot of the formula. I’m sure it will save me a headache down the road. Loved watching the video over my morning coffee!
Awesome, hope it helps. Sure does make it easier for me to remember how to calculate the cuts. Thanks for the comment Kevin!
You have a great table saw. Use that to square the edges. Dado can be made on a table saw in 2 passes even with a regular blade. The way you cut the spline slot is pretty great!! I have found that it is much easier to sand edges is with a regular vibrating sander or I really just run the frame through my router table with a very sharp flush trim bit. Fast ans very smooth.
I do use the table saw sometimes, and other times I use the router table to joint boards. Depends on the boards and my mood, but the hand plane is the most satisfying. You're right on the dados being done in two passes with a table saw. Doing a depth pass then flipping the board on edge and doing another. I personally don't like that way but I haven't done it on this saw, on my previous saw that method was a little scary given how much parts flexed on that POS.
And good tip on sanding! Thanks for sharing.
Nice work on the frames and the video. Thanks for sharing the tip on the splines! Very clever.
Thanks, I appreciate the comment!
Been using this formula for years. I always add 1/8" to the length of the rails to provide 1/16" clearance for the artwork all sides.
Good tip!
Great job they look great
At the end when your daughter was smiling at all the artwork, I teared up, but I think I just got some sawdust in my eyes. Good stuff.
Thanks so much for sharing. I'm glad you enjoyed that part of the video, it was my favorite part too
Nicely done! You have earned a new subscriber to your channel! 👍👍👏👏
Awesome, thanks for subscribing!
"Honey I said I'd do it, there's no need to remind me every six months!"
I know right! Also, I finished the frames and hung them up and my wife's first question was when I'd finish the other three for a different room. Not saying I forgot about them but...
The table saw trick for corners is an excellent trick. Zero clearance insert needed for the thin strips, right?
It's way easier than a whole jig and if I can do a task without I jig that's always my preference, just another thing to store. And yes, I'd recommend a zero clearance insert. Makes the cuts cleaner and safer to not have that gap the workpiece can get stuck in.
Great video. I've actually never made frames. I may have to add a few to the project list now.
With a miter saw and a stop block they're pretty darn easy. Without those things it's much harder. Then of course the rabbet can be tricky without the right tools but a table saw or a router or a router table will all make quick work of it!
Great job , great video. You now have another subscriber.
Thank you for subscribing! Glad you enjoyed the video
I love that, thanks!
great video! I can say I'm definitely guilty of putting off promised projects for years!
It's hard to get them done with all those competing priorities, but it's easy to make excuses to put them off too. So there's my philosophizing for the morning and now I'll get back to work :)
Your spline trick was great! I tried holding my frame on the corners and sliding it through the table saw 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️. It worked but i would never do it that again.
Oh boy. That sounds scary. You can also make a jig to do what you're describing but that's another thing you have to make and store. I always prefer a simple method if it exists
@@keatonbeyerwoodworkingha! The spline jig…just gtoo much to do for making splines. I might if I’m making a bunch but i still like your method better.
Hey not sure if you will see this, but the dimensions for the tops and bottoms using the formula, is that the measurement for the long side of the miter? Thank you.
Yes it is! I find it easiest to always measure the long side of the miters because the tape measure has something to hold onto and your stop block, if you are using one, has a reference point. Good question, I should have made that clearer.
@ awesome thank you for the help!
Thanks for the video! What material do you use for the backing?
Thanks! It was some 1/4 plywood I had lying around. It works but it's a bit thick, hardboard works well too.
Would the picture just be the same measurement as your backer/& acrylic?
Yes, exactly the same. You can even use the picture to setup your saw if you want, that way you take measuring out of the equation entirely.
@keatonbeyerwoodworking what thickness of acrylic did you use?
It's about 1/8" thick
@keatonbeyerwoodworking awesome, thanks for the response. I noticed you used mats when framing your wife's art. Are there any particular mats you'd recommend?
@@andrewdonahoe3626 The pictures I framed already had mats so unfortunately I don't have a recommendation there.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking no worries, thanks for the responses, love the video!
Nice.🙂🙂
The formula works for the stiles as well correct?
Yes, same exact thing for the stiles, just measure the height of the picture you are framing and the rail width/groove width remain the same.
Can someone pls explain how a plane makes it possible to square the sides? Cuz there’s no guide rail or nothing. How does that work
The plane will first straighten the edge just like a power jointer does. But in doing so you can be off of square like I was, so by moving the plane over to one side of the board and removing more wood on the high side you bring the edge back to square.
It takes time and some practice. It also helps you're taking a little bit off at a time and you can check progress with each pass to see how you're doing. I keep two things with me when I plane, a long level to monitor for straight and a square to check for true. Just check multiple parts of the board when you do it because you can be square in one spot and off in another which just means you should plane the off part.
Short version, it's different from using power tools, slower and more concentrated, but a little more fun.
Hi I got the 13 was 11+2 but what’s the side part im not 3/8
That's the width of the rabbet in the rails. In my case it was 3/8.
Don’t have a dado stack, or more correctly, my table saw can’t hold one.
Good thing there's another option I mentioned. I used to make frames with a job site table saw and a thin kerf blade taking a blade width off with each pass. It just takes longer
That lumber rack is on a real load test.
Yeah, I really need to clear it out and use some of it up
this is very cool, but I feel like I'm way out of my league if this is considered easy and simple.
It's all relative. The first time I ever made a picture frame it was tough and I messed it up in more ways than one. This is the method I use now after figuring it out. Hopefully this video gives you a good starting point to make a few less mistakes than I did when you make your picture frames.
Dud you wife create the art? By hand or computer? Really nice
No, just prints. She's had them since she was a kid and they've always been stuffed away in a folder. We wanted to get them out and put them on display.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking ty.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking very nice frames
RUclipsr: "Easy, Simple, DIY"
Step 1: buy a whole factory worth of tools
...
They turned out great though 👍
There's always one.
Yup. A table saw and miter saw. My first ever frames I made with a job site table saw and a cheap Ryobi miter saw. Not quite a whole factory but you definitely need some tools to do woodworking. Glad you liked the frames!