I always prime bodys...that's what everyone sees first anyway....usually airbrush rest of kit without primer. I struggle though with sandable primers building up and hiding details..most often I use Tamiya surface primer.
The correct answer is to prime. Always. (I my opinion) Primer gives you a smooth and consistent foundation for your paint. If you have been sanding, used putty, have parts from different materials like photo etch, resin, or 3D printed parts, parts that are different colors. Primer will smooth all the surfaces, even up the colors, and give a consistent foundation surface texture. Like you said it also promotes adhesion, and fills scratches.
On cars I will use the color of primer to control the color hue, white to brighten, red oxide primer under a red scheme. Pink under a Ferrari Rossa Corsa red. Different gray primers to alter the final hue of a color coat. Sometimes I will also use a candy color over a color coat to shift the final color hue, but that would be another subject for you to cover in a video. Thank you for sharing your skills and expertise. Lawrence Landis
I have absolutely primered everything, inside and out, for the last 30 years. I do it mainly because I shoot mostly automotive grade urethanes, but I think it's essential for all of the same reasons you just stated in this video. All good points. Seams drive me crazy, here's almost always ejector pin marks, so the primer is needed to fill and make sanding easier.
Hi Rob, When I first started building, I did not use a primer or a primer/sealer.The first time that I used a primer, it was to influence the final hue of the color coat. The first time that I used a primer/sealer was to counteract swirls in the roof of a car body. I, now use primer on all types of models including figure models. On figures, I will generally use the red oxide primer to help to warm the base color. If I am doing a metallic color scheme, such as for a sci-fi
I never used to prime when i first started getting serious into model building. I would just spray and pray with Rustoleum 2X. I never washed the bodies either. Now i wash the body after i sand mold lines and imperfections. I then prime, wet sand and look for anything i may have missed. If i don't need to spray any more primer, i then move on to color. I don't wet sand metallic colors, but i do wet sand solid colors and move on to clear. That is all if im spraying with lacquer paint. If im spraying with enamel like Rustoleum, i still prime, wet sand. Then move on to color, but no clear coat. I can make a video if you like me to showing results of my previous builds 👍😎
Hey Rob, I prime bodies 100% and interior parts only if I’m going to a lighter color than the original plastic (like black to white). Otherwise I don’t bother because I mist coats on and the first coats become the primer.
Right on, buddy. I prime everything. Actually, the touch 'n tone is my favorite. Most of my builds get auto enamel and so far, no issues at all. Great video!👍
Great video, two best parts - you showed 5 excellent primers, second best point -- based on surface science, " you need a surface that the paint cab grab into" . Actually a third point, bleed through. I typically stay away from the large, " non model" rattle cans because they are typically to hot for plastic. The Tamiya Primer is the BEST primer I have found to date for smooth surfaces , Mr. Surfacer is also excellent for covering up small sanding and molding imperfection.. I liked the rattle cans over airbrush , virtually no equipment clean up and consist spray with no dilution Thanks for sharing.
@@timemachinesscalemodels I do like the thought of those big Rustoleum cans - have got a large stash of "paint mules" Im working with and would like to give them another shot. Years , feels more like a century ago - I'd collect soda bottles and get a refund and have enough to buy an AMT kit. The big cans were all that was available , after letting the paint dry we'd use automobile rubbing compound to smooth out finish. Paints and materials have evolved a lot and one of my paint mules is a 1/48 scale C-130 - that much surface would probably make for a good test . I'll sign up and pick up more of your advice . Thanks again.
Back when I was a young lad I never used primer on anything. Then again, Testors was the only spray paint that I used and it was formulated to go directly on the plastic. Now that I am older I prime everything. I have found that it is a multi-purpose tool. Not only does it provide a base for the topcoat to adhere to, but it also makes any swirl marks, mold lines, or flash that I have missed pop out. I have mentioned these things on my channel as well. With the use of any type of paint available, not all of it is formulated for use with styrene and like you mentioned, it can an will destroy plastic in mere seconds (ask me how I know...) Now, on the topic of swirl marks, one thing I noticed that you didn't mention was how when applying a metal flake paint on the body, the metal flake in that paint will tend to migrate towards, and into, the swirl mark. Thus, magnifying the fact that the swirl is there. Primer is great for making that swirl stand out so that you can take steps to hide it before you lay down that epic top coat of color (again, ask me how I know...). For those that don't believe in applying a primer coat... Well, that is your choice obviously but you are one etched plastic body away from believing IMHO. I have had a few builds that have gone south because of mis-matched clear coats going crazy and the primer was the only barrier between saving the build and throwing it in the trash. Thanks for the great video!
@@timemachinesscalemodels Thank You! You produced a great video here with a ton of great information. I just thought that I would help out by adding one or two things here and there. Keep up the great work!
@@timemachinesscalemodels I've only used it a few times. It dries quickly & has a very smooth finish. It also is available in several colors, plus it sands easily.
Swirls are hard to get rid of. They can to bite you if you just sand them. Also too hot paint will reveal them. So my technique to get rid of them, is to alter the plastic chemically. Using solvent based glue(tamiya extra thin quick setting) I brush that at those swirls. Then sand them. Sometimes filler primer and/or silver base is needed to really hide them. For painting red plastic. Tamiya now has white base which works nice for sealing the plastic. Could work with swirls too. You could also play with primer colors. Pink works great for painting yellow top coat.
Good evening my friend. I had to watch this one. Thanks for doing this video. You touch on things I didn’t do. I always prime but not good enough. Have a great and blessed week buddy 👊👊👍👍😎☝️
Awesome video Rob... I agree, primer always... A lot of the time I use good old Rust O you have on your desk to fill in the stuff I miss. I love Duplicolor Primer Filler the best and I also use Mr Color 1500 for a smooth feel. So now the question is which one to use right? Me I say all of them. Folks like the Tamiya primer in the rattle can, great... I sometimes like to airbrush my primer... All good points Bruce and they all work. Just need to learn how and when to use them all... Lol LLAP 🖖
Great video with a lot of useful info. I like to prime for uniformity and transparency. Especially when combining different colored plastics for custom work. Keep the videos coming Thanks
Excellent topic and great to hear/see what people respond with. I have some great paint jobs that I've sprayed my color right over the plastic but I'd say more so now I lean towards priming.
Great ideas there, Rob! I usually have just primered the body and just paint for the rest of the parts, sometimes spray paint for interiors and chassis, but brushing all the small engine parts and such. One thing I've noticed is that metallic paints seem to be somewhat transparent so the metallic particles shine through the paint, so whatever it is painted over affects the final look.
Me personally I will primer if I have done a decent amount of bodywork. Usually (like when I strip glue bomb paint jobs) I'll lay a base of non metallic silver and then the color I'm choosing brother. 😊
I prime all my model parts. The big issue with bleed through, especially with red, is that the model companies used dye for their colors and not pigments. Now it seems they are switching to pigments.
Absolutely! I recall building an old Monogram '57 T-Bird (or maybe it was a '56). The thing was molded in red and I painted it white.....no primer. I pulled my hair out with that and at the end of the day all I had was a "white-ish" T-bird with red and pink highlights.
I'm with you Rob, I prime every body. Every model is going to have at least one round of body work from sanding off the seam where the mold sections meet, and a quick coat of primer is needed to check ones work on that. I usually also primer larger items like the chassis and interior floor/tub. Smaller parts I don't bother with as I paint primarily with lacquers and the solvents in those will "eat" the oil from your fingers so long as you aren't eating KFC or Cheetos by the fistful at the bench. That Rustoluem stuff is too dangerous for me to consider using on a project as it's got a metal etcher in there - put that on too heavy and it's going to craze the body.
Nice video Rob. I've painted a couple bodies without primer before but the primer will let you see right away is you have missed any mold line. I prefer to prime.
I like the Stynylrex it seems to lay down nice, I have only tried the black so far but I like it. I purchased a 6 pack of 2oz bottles from Spraygunner for about $18.
I primer every build. It is what I was taught. It works. Why change what works? It did take me a while to find and settle on a primer I liked, though. Most people wouldn't consider them primers, but they work. I use flat paints, usually white or black,from, I think, it's duplicolor . It was the cheapest I found at Walmart. I found that it was cheap, a buck or so a can, covered well, and I have never had any flaking problems.
I use primer but I find rattle can to thick and need scribe the panel line. I’m retired and have gotten back into models and paint has changed since the 50s and 60s.
It definitely has changed. I spent several years in the coatings industry and I can tell you within just the last 15 years things have changed drastically. As far as primer from rattle cans being thick, you are correct about some of them. I've had good luck with the Rustoleum automotive primer seen in the video. When I worry about panel lines and detail being obscured by primer I tend to use a lighter, model specific primer like Mr. Hobby, Tamiya etc. Of course if you have very shallow panel lines it's always a good idea to scribe them deeper.
I probably take it too far and prime every single part with Mr. Surfacer 1500. But when it comes to a car body, there is really no question that you should prime a car body for reasons you mentioned. Some day I would like to finally get to the bottom of the debate of why bold colored plastic influences the hue of the final paint color. Is dye from the palstic working it's way through the paint? Is paint just translucent? Who knows? Any way, great discussion on why it is advantageous to use primer. 👍👍👍
Thanks for the video Rob. I prefer to prime my bodies and one problem I had with Testors Extreme Lacquer was I had used grey Tamiya primer on a resin body followed by the Extreme. The color was not even close to the cap (flaming orange). I have stripped the color and primer and sprayed white primer today. Plan to spray the Extreme tomorrow.
Great video Rob!!!! I use primer under everything for a base unless I'm spraying Tamiya TS paint. I generally only use primer on body parts though. Nothing else . As far as covering a body molded in color I'll use BINS primer. You'll never have bleed through. Hope that helps. Thanks for sharing
I've never heard of that primer. I'll have to look into it. I've gotten into the habit of priming even small parts now because I'm using a lot of Alclad products, AK Superchrome or GSW chrome.
First I'll say, it's your model, build it the way you want and the way that works for you. For me, I always prime the body. It helps me find mold lines and imperfections in the plastic. Then I'll usually put a light coat on the rest of the parts just to help with adhesion of paint and I believe helps with the color coverage and in some cases the vibrancy and contrast. As far as chipping, I used to experience it from time to time in the old days, before i primered them. Now it's practically non-existent for me. You got a sub sir, hopefully you will see something on my channel that you like as well
Sweet info in this video, I'm like you always prime, even more so on resin kits bodies, as sometimes primer picks up on stuff you missed or didn't see, I'm sure this video will help people, doing well, hope you're doing well and the family Cheers 🍻🍻🇦🇺🤝🇺🇲👌👍🦘🦘🏔
I do most of my interiors with acrylics and a lot of parts are sprayed in Alclad, Green Stuff World and/or AK Superchrome. I got in the habit of priming everything.
100% agree. I was an aerospace spray painter for several years and I've been a model builder for over five decades. Also, I very much appreciate your proper use of the NOUN "primer" and the VERB "prime".
I built my first model kits 55 years ago. I still have them all. None of them have primer. There are no chips, there was never any adhesion problems, nor has there ever been any bleed-through. My first coat of paint, applied lightly, will serve me for any sanding I might need to do, I don't need primers. My feeling about this priming thing is people thin the paint too far, and don't apply enough coats. When that is done, all those other faults are more likely to occur. My only qualification to this past experience is I've only used rattle cans, not air brush (although I do own one air brush, just have not used it yet, but I plan to soon). It's been quite a few years since I've built kits, so modern paint quality perhaps is not as good. But I used many many coats of paint applied thinly, way back then (mainly that was to prevent paint runs). It's time consuming. The real purpose of a primer in automotive painting is to prevent rust from bleeding up through the porous top layers of paint. It is not for adhesion. We in the model hobby are pretty much never painting metal, so primer is unnecessary.
@@timemachinesscalemodels Sorry, I debunked it all, point by point. Not being disrespectful, I'm being truthful. Fifty-five years later the models I did without any primer look just like they did back then. Disagree all you like! Primer on plastic is not necessary. The proof is on my shelf. Primer on metal inhibits rust, on plastic it is urban legend in my viewpoint. People just think it is needed, because that's how 1:1 cars are painted, so they copy that method. 😃 Use a light layer of your top color, let it dry, and you can do everything you do with primer, like sanding. Clean it, then finish the painting. I've never badly gouged a model, but if I did there are fillers out there to fix it that I'd use, not primer.
Hey, you're pretty cool teaching, some guys have knowledge but lack teaching skills. You teach at a level of understanding and not put the fear that you're going to F**k it up.Thanks🤘🏼
Back in the 70's, 80's and 90's I never used primers on my models. I would sand the mold lines, progressing through the grit levels. Then I would scuff the body with 1000 grit. Always got great results. Took a 25 year or so hiatus from the hobby, found out my old ways don't work anymore. Now I use primer on all of my models.
They changed all the paint on us and took all the "fun" stuff out. Over the years as the formulas went "green" it made us scramble to figure out new ways to use the products. Some of the stuff we used to use with high rates of success just don't give us the same results as before.
I agree and disagree at the same time. The '59 Cadillac I just finished up a little while ago was sprayed in Testor's gloss light blue enamel and it turned out pretty decent. I've pretty much moved on from Testor's products, whether it be the Extreme lacquer or the enamels, but some still use them. I'm using up the small bottles of enamel when I detail paint.
I always prime bodys...that's what everyone sees first anyway....usually airbrush rest of kit without primer.
I struggle though with sandable primers building up and hiding details..most often I use Tamiya surface primer.
great tips awesome vid thx 4 sharing this jus what the docter ordered 😁🤩scooter😎
The correct answer is to prime. Always. (I my opinion) Primer gives you a smooth and consistent foundation for your paint. If you have been sanding, used putty, have parts from different materials like photo etch, resin, or 3D printed parts, parts that are different colors. Primer will smooth all the surfaces, even up the colors, and give a consistent foundation surface texture. Like you said it also promotes adhesion, and fills scratches.
On cars I will use the color of primer to control the color hue, white to brighten, red oxide primer under a red scheme. Pink under a Ferrari Rossa Corsa red. Different gray primers to alter the final hue of a color coat. Sometimes I will also use a candy color over a color coat to shift the final color hue, but that would be another subject for you to cover in a video. Thank you for sharing your skills and expertise.
Lawrence Landis
Absolutely! I could have gone in depth with the different colors of primer for different top coat colors. Maybe next time. Thanks for stopping in.
I have absolutely primered everything, inside and out, for the last 30 years. I do it mainly because I shoot mostly automotive grade urethanes, but I think it's essential for all of the same reasons you just stated in this video. All good points. Seams drive me crazy, here's almost always ejector pin marks, so the primer is needed to fill and make sanding easier.
Hi Rob,
When I first started building, I did not use a primer or a primer/sealer.The first time that I used a primer, it was to influence the final hue of the color coat. The first time that I used a primer/sealer was to counteract swirls in the roof of a car body. I, now use primer on all types of models including figure models. On figures, I will generally use the red oxide primer to help to warm the base color. If I am doing a metallic color scheme, such as for a sci-fi
I will use a black primer and dry brush the metallic hues.
I never used to prime when i first started getting serious into model building. I would just spray and pray with Rustoleum 2X. I never washed the bodies either. Now i wash the body after i sand mold lines and imperfections. I then prime, wet sand and look for anything i may have missed. If i don't need to spray any more primer, i then move on to color. I don't wet sand metallic colors, but i do wet sand solid colors and move on to clear. That is all if im spraying with lacquer paint. If im spraying with enamel like Rustoleum, i still prime, wet sand. Then move on to color, but no clear coat. I can make a video if you like me to showing results of my previous builds 👍😎
Hey Rob, I prime bodies 100% and interior parts only if I’m going to a lighter color than the original plastic (like black to white). Otherwise I don’t bother because I mist coats on and the first coats become the primer.
Right on, buddy. I prime everything. Actually, the touch 'n tone is my favorite. Most of my builds get auto enamel and so far, no issues at all. Great video!👍
Great video, two best parts - you showed 5 excellent primers, second best point -- based on surface science, " you need a surface that the paint cab grab into" . Actually a third point, bleed through. I typically stay away from the large, " non model" rattle cans because they are typically to hot for plastic. The Tamiya Primer is the BEST primer I have found to date for smooth surfaces , Mr. Surfacer is also excellent for covering up small sanding and molding imperfection.. I liked the rattle cans over airbrush , virtually no equipment clean up and consist spray with no dilution Thanks for sharing.
Great points. I've never had a problem with the Rustoleum automotive primers. I do all of my priming by tattle can as well.
@@timemachinesscalemodels I do like the thought of those big Rustoleum cans - have got a large stash of "paint mules" Im working with and would like to give them another shot. Years , feels more like a century ago - I'd collect soda bottles and get a refund and have enough to buy an AMT kit. The big cans were all that was available , after letting the paint dry we'd use automobile rubbing compound to smooth out finish. Paints and materials have evolved a lot and one of my paint mules is a 1/48 scale C-130 - that much surface would probably make for a good test . I'll sign up and pick up more of your advice . Thanks again.
I always prime everything. Thanks for sharing.
I always primer the bodies, either with gray or white depending on what color paint I'm putting on it. small parts not always but sometimes I do.
Back when I was a young lad I never used primer on anything. Then again, Testors was the only spray paint that I used and it was formulated to go directly on the plastic. Now that I am older I prime everything. I have found that it is a multi-purpose tool. Not only does it provide a base for the topcoat to adhere to, but it also makes any swirl marks, mold lines, or flash that I have missed pop out. I have mentioned these things on my channel as well. With the use of any type of paint available, not all of it is formulated for use with styrene and like you mentioned, it can an will destroy plastic in mere seconds (ask me how I know...) Now, on the topic of swirl marks, one thing I noticed that you didn't mention was how when applying a metal flake paint on the body, the metal flake in that paint will tend to migrate towards, and into, the swirl mark. Thus, magnifying the fact that the swirl is there. Primer is great for making that swirl stand out so that you can take steps to hide it before you lay down that epic top coat of color (again, ask me how I know...). For those that don't believe in applying a primer coat... Well, that is your choice obviously but you are one etched plastic body away from believing IMHO. I have had a few builds that have gone south because of mis-matched clear coats going crazy and the primer was the only barrier between saving the build and throwing it in the trash. Thanks for the great video!
You make valid points. Especially metallics highlighting the swirls. I should have touched on that a little deeper.
@@timemachinesscalemodels Thank You! You produced a great video here with a ton of great information. I just thought that I would help out by adding one or two things here and there. Keep up the great work!
I have had very good results using Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer. Recently, I have also used Stynylrez primer with decent results.
I'd like to try the Stynylrez. I've heard good things about it.
@@timemachinesscalemodels I've only used it a few times. It dries quickly & has a very smooth finish. It also is available in several colors, plus it sands easily.
Swirls are hard to get rid of. They can to bite you if you just sand them. Also too hot paint will reveal them. So my technique to get rid of them, is to alter the plastic chemically. Using solvent based glue(tamiya extra thin quick setting) I brush that at those swirls. Then sand them. Sometimes filler primer and/or silver base is needed to really hide them.
For painting red plastic. Tamiya now has white base which works nice for sealing the plastic. Could work with swirls too. You could also play with primer colors. Pink works great for painting yellow top coat.
Good info. Thanks for the tips.
My process is to always prime everything, especially considering I use mostly craft acrylics. Just my opinion it really helps with paint adhesion.
Yes, I should have spoken on craft acrylics. They definitely need primer to adhere to.
Good evening my friend. I had to watch this one. Thanks for doing this video. You touch on things I didn’t do. I always prime but not good enough. Have a great and blessed week buddy 👊👊👍👍😎☝️
I prime only when I do alot of body work or the plastic is a different color
I always paint with primer and sometimes will prime with paint but never always not primer.
I do a mix of both actually, but 90% of the time I use primer. My newest build had no primer anywhere, and looks pretty decent.
And you do a LOT of scratch building. I'm surprised you didn't use any primer on this last build.
Awesome video Rob... I agree, primer always... A lot of the time I use good old Rust O you have on your desk to fill in the stuff I miss. I love Duplicolor Primer Filler the best and I also use Mr Color 1500 for a smooth feel. So now the question is which one to use right? Me I say all of them. Folks like the Tamiya primer in the rattle can, great... I sometimes like to airbrush my primer... All good points Bruce and they all work. Just need to learn how and when to use them all... Lol
LLAP 🖖
Great video with a lot of useful info. I like to prime for uniformity and transparency. Especially when combining different colored plastics for custom work. Keep the videos coming Thanks
Excellent topic and great to hear/see what people respond with. I have some great paint jobs that I've sprayed my color right over the plastic but I'd say more so now I lean towards priming.
I've had better experience with priming than not. So I guess that puts me on team primer.
Me too, I prime everything (well, almost everything lol). Excellent video, brother ✌️😁
Nice video, I use primer all the time.
Great ideas there, Rob! I usually have just primered the body and just paint for the rest of the parts, sometimes spray paint for interiors and chassis, but brushing all the small engine parts and such. One thing I've noticed is that metallic paints seem to be somewhat transparent so the metallic particles shine through the paint, so whatever it is painted over affects the final look.
Me personally I will primer if I have done a decent amount of bodywork. Usually (like when I strip glue bomb paint jobs) I'll lay a base of non metallic silver and then the color I'm choosing brother. 😊
Using primer right this minute. I find it useful to catch any seam lines or unevenness I may have missed.
I always use primer on everything. Good video.
Yes even Krylon or Rust-oleum paint & primer in one needs a primer sealer first.
And yes they are now with Testors one company.
I prime all my model parts. The big issue with bleed through, especially with red, is that the model companies used dye for their colors and not pigments. Now it seems they are switching to pigments.
Absolutely! I recall building an old Monogram '57 T-Bird (or maybe it was a '56). The thing was molded in red and I painted it white.....no primer. I pulled my hair out with that and at the end of the day all I had was a "white-ish" T-bird with red and pink highlights.
I'm with you Rob, I prime every body. Every model is going to have at least one round of body work from sanding off the seam where the mold sections meet, and a quick coat of primer is needed to check ones work on that. I usually also primer larger items like the chassis and interior floor/tub. Smaller parts I don't bother with as I paint primarily with lacquers and the solvents in those will "eat" the oil from your fingers so long as you aren't eating KFC or Cheetos by the fistful at the bench. That Rustoluem stuff is too dangerous for me to consider using on a project as it's got a metal etcher in there - put that on too heavy and it's going to craze the body.
I wash and then prime everything before top coat always prime for me less likely to run into problems 👍👍
very good info.... i am new to this community & i have learned that doing primer will give you a better finished project... thx 4 sharing... vinny
You are welcome. That's why I do what I do in hopes that it helps someone be a better modeler.
Nice video Rob. I've painted a couple bodies without primer before but the primer will let you see right away is you have missed any mold line. I prefer to prime.
I use primer with every model car I build my issue comes when what paint to put on top of the primer.👍🏿
I was using rustoleum primer but have started using Badger Stynylrex primer and Createx Autoborne sealer
I'd like to try the Stynylrez.
I like the Stynylrex it seems to lay down nice, I have only tried the black so far but I like it. I purchased a 6 pack of 2oz bottles from Spraygunner for about $18.
Great video Rob
I use it but i sand it real nice before I paint. I have sprayed paint without it before and it works also. 👊🏻🐾
Prime all bodies,pans and frames may even do the motor if it a show car. Street car motor are rarely that nice.
I'm a big fan of primer too, especially on bodies. And different kinds for different purposes.
I primer every build. It is what I was taught. It works. Why change what works? It did take me a while to find and settle on a primer I liked, though. Most people wouldn't consider them primers, but they work. I use flat paints, usually white or black,from, I think, it's duplicolor . It was the cheapest I found at Walmart. I found that it was cheap, a buck or so a can, covered well, and I have never had any flaking problems.
Flat paints work well for primers. I've used flat white and flat black to prime.
Correction. The cheap paint brand is Colorplace.
I use primer but I find rattle can to thick and need scribe the panel line. I’m retired and have gotten back into models and paint has changed since the 50s and 60s.
It definitely has changed. I spent several years in the coatings industry and I can tell you within just the last 15 years things have changed drastically. As far as primer from rattle cans being thick, you are correct about some of them. I've had good luck with the Rustoleum automotive primer seen in the video. When I worry about panel lines and detail being obscured by primer I tend to use a lighter, model specific primer like Mr. Hobby, Tamiya etc. Of course if you have very shallow panel lines it's always a good idea to scribe them deeper.
I probably take it too far and prime every single part with Mr. Surfacer 1500. But when it comes to a car body, there is really no question that you should prime a car body for reasons you mentioned. Some day I would like to finally get to the bottom of the debate of why bold colored plastic influences the hue of the final paint color. Is dye from the palstic working it's way through the paint? Is paint just translucent? Who knows? Any way, great discussion on why it is advantageous to use primer. 👍👍👍
Thanks for the video Rob. I prefer to prime my bodies and one problem I had with Testors Extreme Lacquer was I had used grey Tamiya primer on a resin body followed by the Extreme. The color was not even close to the cap (flaming orange). I have stripped the color and primer and sprayed white primer today. Plan to spray the Extreme tomorrow.
Try a silver or gold base under the flaming orange. I've had the same issue with that specific color.
Thank you.
I'm an avid primer guy, everything gets primered before I start
Great video Rob!!!! I use primer under everything for a base unless I'm spraying Tamiya TS paint. I generally only use primer on body parts though. Nothing else . As far as covering a body molded in color I'll use BINS primer. You'll never have bleed through. Hope that helps. Thanks for sharing
I've never heard of that primer. I'll have to look into it. I've gotten into the habit of priming even small parts now because I'm using a lot of Alclad products, AK Superchrome or GSW chrome.
@@timemachinesscalemodels It's available at Home Depot and Lowes. Hope that helps.
First I'll say, it's your model, build it the way you want and the way that works for you. For me, I always prime the body. It helps me find mold lines and imperfections in the plastic. Then I'll usually put a light coat on the rest of the parts just to help with adhesion of paint and I believe helps with the color coverage and in some cases the vibrancy and contrast. As far as chipping, I used to experience it from time to time in the old days, before i primered them. Now it's practically non-existent for me. You got a sub sir, hopefully you will see something on my channel that you like as well
Thanks for the tip thanks for sharing
It's all true Rob! Swirls are the worst! I had to go back and prime because after two coats it was still there. 😎👍
Sweet info in this video, I'm like you always prime, even more so on resin kits bodies, as sometimes primer picks up on stuff you missed or didn't see, I'm sure this video will help people, doing well, hope you're doing well and the family Cheers 🍻🍻🇦🇺🤝🇺🇲👌👍🦘🦘🏔
Thanks, KC. If it helps just one person improve their finishes I've done my job. 👍
@timemachinesscalemodels my pleasure Rob and absolutely agree 💯 percent 👊🇦🇺🍻👌🦘
Cool video Rob and I use primer most of the time, but if I'm painting the car the same color as the plastic I don't ❤😊
Just for example Red casting and red paint, I have found that you come up with a whole different color of red.
I prime all of the bodies and interiors. The small parts maybe no , but according to what it is and if it is to be painted the body color.
I do most of my interiors with acrylics and a lot of parts are sprayed in Alclad, Green Stuff World and/or AK Superchrome. I got in the habit of priming everything.
I typically prime the body but I usually don’t prime interior or chassis.
I prime everything these days because I'm often using acrylics on interiors or using Alclad products or AK Superchrome on parts and pieces.
100% agree. I was an aerospace spray painter for several years and I've been a model builder for over five decades.
Also, I very much appreciate your proper use of the NOUN "primer" and the VERB "prime".
Prime everything!!
Always!!!
I built my first model kits 55 years ago. I still have them all. None of them have primer. There are no chips, there was never any adhesion problems, nor has there ever been any bleed-through.
My first coat of paint, applied lightly, will serve me for any sanding I might need to do, I don't need primers. My feeling about this priming thing is people thin the paint too far, and don't apply enough coats. When that is done, all those other faults are more likely to occur.
My only qualification to this past experience is I've only used rattle cans, not air brush (although I do own one air brush, just have not used it yet, but I plan to soon). It's been quite a few years since I've built kits, so modern paint quality perhaps is not as good. But I used many many coats of paint applied thinly, way back then (mainly that was to prevent paint runs). It's time consuming. The real purpose of a primer in automotive painting is to prevent rust from bleeding up through the porous top layers of paint. It is not for adhesion. We in the model hobby are pretty much never painting metal, so primer is unnecessary.
I disagree that primer is unnecessary. I highlight several reasons in this video.
@@timemachinesscalemodels Sorry, I debunked it all, point by point. Not being disrespectful, I'm being truthful.
Fifty-five years later the models I did without any primer look just like they did back then.
Disagree all you like! Primer on plastic is not necessary. The proof is on my shelf. Primer on metal inhibits rust, on plastic it is urban legend in my viewpoint. People just think it is needed, because that's how 1:1 cars are painted, so they copy that method. 😃
Use a light layer of your top color, let it dry, and you can do everything you do with primer, like sanding. Clean it, then finish the painting.
I've never badly gouged a model, but if I did there are fillers out there to fix it that I'd use, not primer.
thinkin sealer primer then color primer to accent the color choice🤔😁😅
Nice
Nice video Rob!!! 👍
Thanks, Tim.
@@timemachinesscalemodels 🤜🤛
Hey, you're pretty cool teaching, some guys have knowledge but lack teaching skills. You teach at a level of understanding and not put the fear that you're going to F**k it up.Thanks🤘🏼
Back in the 70's, 80's and 90's I never used primers on my models. I would sand the mold lines, progressing through the grit levels. Then I would scuff the body with 1000 grit. Always got great results. Took a 25 year or so hiatus from the hobby, found out my old ways don't work anymore. Now I use primer on all of my models.
They changed all the paint on us and took all the "fun" stuff out. Over the years as the formulas went "green" it made us scramble to figure out new ways to use the products. Some of the stuff we used to use with high rates of success just don't give us the same results as before.
Great video!!!
@@TropicalGlitz thank you
I ALWAYS Prime. I would never paint a road car without proiming why wouldn't I prime my models.
Testors is crap paint!
I agree and disagree at the same time. The '59 Cadillac I just finished up a little while ago was sprayed in Testor's gloss light blue enamel and it turned out pretty decent. I've pretty much moved on from Testor's products, whether it be the Extreme lacquer or the enamels, but some still use them. I'm using up the small bottles of enamel when I detail paint.