I used to work at the Jiffy lube in south Scottsdale on McDowell and Miller Rd. and do the transmission flushes occasionally. Once the transmissions full and the machine is disconnected with the brake on put it through each gear for 10-20 seconds then put it back in park then check the fluid level while vehicle is operating. Between the bottom two dots if cold and the between the top to dots on the transmission dip stick.
Not for nothin'... but I've fixed/repaired more issues caused by Jiffy Lube techs than I can count. The refill procedure I outline in the video is straight from the factory service manual. btw, most people don't have a machine to extract or add fluid to their transmission. They have to do it manually like I show in the video.
Bryan Bennecke, I’m not a pro-video creator or editor by any means. This is a hobby for me. I try to gear my videos towards the beginner & intermediate mechanic, but also try to add tips that would help someone who is experienced. However, if you’re an experience mechanic, then you will likely not be going to RUclips to find out how to do a relatively simple transmission fluid & filter change like this. Either way, thanks a lot for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
oh by any means i am not a mechanic.. LOL and yes, that's why i'm checking youtube for advice... I just changed everything like your video, minimal spilliage, also found out i was low on ATF and ...NOW... my Durango doesn't drop in gears, and will shift through all gears super smooth.. i should have done it at 50,000 instead of 130,000!!! thank you!!!
I’m glad this video helped you out. Thanks a lot for letting me know. I appreciate it. Keep an eye on the fluid. It doesn’t just disappear or get burned up like engine oil. If you are low then you have a leak somewhere. If the fluid gets too low you will experience weird behavior like you were seeing and could easily burn up the transmission. Good luck...
Good video. Thank you. Do not use both RTV and a gasket. Use one or the other. I prefer a Felpro gasket. If you use both, you are going to have a very unpleasant situation the next time you service the transmission.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re RTV & gasket: Normally I would agree with you. But in this case the pan was do dented up, and definitely not a flat sealing surface, RTV was the only option. I only used RTV in the bad parts of the pan. The rest was sealed by a Felpro gasket. I think I mentioned it in the video. There were no aftermarket pans available at the time, Dodge wanted way too much for a new one and I didn't have time to go to the junk yard to pull one. Either way, it worked like a charm actually. The next time I changed the fluid a few years ago there was only a little dampness in the back drivers side corner of the pan. I also replaced the pan this time with a Dorman one that has a built in drain plug and used a felpro gasket. So far still no leaks.
I used the Permatex Right Stuff 90 Minute gasket maker and waited and hour before torue the pan bolts to spec, and then another 1 1/2 or 90 minutes before adding transmission fluid. I have no leaks at all and have driven som three days in a row.
Outstanding how to video. You show and tell so many excellent items that you check and explain which will save someone time and pain like expecting and clean each pan bolt. I can imagine that the housing would damage easily it being aluminum. Your extraction of fluid at the beginning had me thinking why. I have never done this procedure before and thinking how the transmission is so complicated and frightening to repair. This video took all that hesitation out and now I'm looking forward to do it this week on my 04 Durango 3.7. I see the $$$ I will be saving by doing it myself will be a great prime rib dinner. Your filling and testing at the end really shows the importance of correct level achievement of new fluid which I never heard or thought of prior but makes 100% sense and demonstrates you are a pro. Thanks a million. Ken
Extracting the fluid at the beginning makes dropping the pan easier. Less chance of spilling the fluid all over the floor or yourself if there is less fluid in the pan. It's not required, but it does help. I'm glad my video helped you out and saved you some cash. Thats why I make them.
Hi,I need to make sure on my 01 dakota 4.7 motor has the oil cooler filter before i change it.I seen one kit on E-bay and it shows the cooler filter and i do like the oil pan gasket u got better. Thanks pet rock.
You should be able to contact any Dodge dealer's parts department. They can look it up by your VIN number (unless your transmission was replaced since it left the factory). Good luck...
For a drain pan get a 32 gal rubbermaid/ brute garbage can lid, they come with or without center hole & they are 22" in diameter 4" high for about $10 ! you can drain just about anything without spillage 👍
I used to do that but it only lasted a few oil changes before dragging it on the concrete wore through the plastic. With the cheap walmart oil pan, I can used it for 10 years before it starts to wear through from dragging.
I used the pump in the video to demonstrate how to easily extract the fluid for those who do not have a drain plug. The drain plug is not stock on this transmission. Any catch pan will do the job as long as its bigger then the transmission pan.
My 2000 Durango's transmission was leaking like crazy. I looked all over the internet to solve the problem, until I found this. You covered everything I needed! Thank you very much!
I wouldn't worry about it unless you've got metal shavings/chunks in your trans fluid. Half the fluid will come out of the converter if you let it drip overnight with the pan off. To get the other half would require removing the transmission and pulling the converter to drain it. Its not worth the effort, IMO. Any dirty fluid in it will be significantly diluted by the new fluid you put in at the end.
Great Video. Watched it and then did the job on a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo which was exactly the same (45RFE). Took about 7 quarts to refill. The seal on my pan filter came off with the old filter. I can see someone making the mistake of just slipping the new seal onto the new pan filter which will not seal correctly. You need to tap the new seal into place as shown in this video. After refilling, there is so much fluid in the fill tube that it's sometimes hard to get an accurate reading until it sets for an hour or so, then start and recheck for minor adjustments. As you did, measure what you take out for a rough idea of how much to put back in for a start.
not sure if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me atm then you can stream pretty much all of the latest movies and series on instaflixxer. Been watching with my gf during the lockdown :)
Uh the uh uh the uh um uh the drain plug was not stock on this model, but a sweet add on, I’ve done this twice and never had a problem with spilling. I used a transmission fluid drip pan that I purchased for $25. I would avoid using this dangerous gasket removal spray and just stick with the scraper and by golly use some paper towels to clean up
Yeah, um, the drain ah plug isn't uh stock as I said in the video, and have another video on how to install one. It comes in handy. The gasket remover is also pretty handy. Just don't inject it or let it sit for weeks and it's fine. I haven't had a problem with it in the years that I've used it. With that said, the gasket I used is holding up nicely, so I'm going to keep using them in the future since RTV is a P.I.T.A. to deal with.
Excellent diy video,probably the best I've ever watched.Thank you for taking the time to do it.I have a Dakota with the same trans,157,000 miles,fluid in it still has the reddish color,transmission shifts great.I have no idea the service history of this vehicle as I just got it.Some say don't change fluid on high mileage trans if it shifts ok as may cause issues.What is your opinion?Thank you.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. 157k miles isn't high milage, IMO. But changing the fluid wouldn't _cause_ a problem. The new fluid may reveal an already existing problem. For example, a bad seal may be plugged with gunk, and not leaking yet. The new fluid may clear out that gunk revealing a leak that was just waiting to appear. IMO, better to know now rather than when out on the road. I change all the fluids in a new (to me) vehicle without exception. Hope that helps & good luck!
Great video, fixing to change filter and fluid on transmission on 2006 Durango, but I have a little problem the dip stick filler tube is broken and when I add fluid it does not go into transmission, my question is when replacing tube ,how do you get to it to replace ?
The tube should have a couple mounting brackets that hold it in place. I'm not sure if they are in the same spot as on my '03 Durango. But you should be able to find them pretty easily by following the tube down and look for mounting brackets/bolts. Once the bolts are unscrewed you should be able to just pull up on the tube to remove it. Good luck...
Excellent video! Did this over the weekend on my 2002 Grand Cherokee with the V8. I used a small pair of 90-degree needle nose pliers to remove the o-ring, instead of a wrench.. Also used a gasket from the ATP kit, instead of RTV. We'll see if it leaks. Thanks for the detail!
Not sure if you would know but I was wondering how much to add if the level is almost right in the middle of the cold and hot sections. My level is almost dead center between the top cold dot and bottom hot dot. Wasn't sure if that's just a pint low or a quart low or even less than a pint. I've looked online everywhere and can't seem to find an answer.
The general rule of thumb I use is to add a half quart at a time until it reaches the proper level. You would be surprised at how much a half-quart moves the level. Of course, in-between each half-quart, run through the procedure to check the level that I describe in the video around the 42:40 mark. You don’t want to overfill, but if you do you can suck the excess fluid out with a hand suction pump like I show in the video. Good luck...
Thank you very much!!! I watched this video prior to doing this on my '02 Dakota. I have prior mechanical knowledge, but I've never messed with auto transmissions before... I watched this video while doing the task, and it made it much simpler. Thank you for posting this. I like how you went through each step in detail, it helped me out while working on the vehicle. PS: Thanks for reminding me to put my magnet back into the pan, haha. I have a feeling I would have spaced that if you had not mentioned it in the video.
Fabulous, intelligent and useful video. My 2003 Dakota 545rfe was overfilled,foaming fluid. Pumped some out...Now I am prepared to tackle this job in warmer weather.Trans is fine presently. I discovered the spin-on filter needs to be one with an upgrade serial number for good operation...Thanks for posting this.
I'll look it up in my bookmarks...It was found that the ones(spinon) with an "AB" prefix tended to leak and cause slip/shift problems from a weak mount on the filter can ( I think)..will post it when I find it again.
Neither did I until I stripped out a bolt hole in the front differential on this truck and had to figure out how to install a helacoil with only a few inches of clearance. Will never forget now. :-)
Also, forgot to share, it is recommended to measure the oil you remove to return the same amount, as close as possible, so when you start up the oil level will be close to original.
That is a good idea, but a lot of fluid drips out once the pan has been dropped/drained, so it is hard to get an accurate measurement. In my case the truck was sitting for a couple weeks after I drained & dropped the pan so a lot more fluid came out then if it hadn’t sat for so long. But measuring the amount of fluid will get you in the ball park when you go to refill. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The first time changing the oil, I used a large cat litter plastic box (also great for cleaning parts on other projects) as I was able to retain all fluid. After changing the pan with a drain plug, all oil went into my drain pan which I then poured into plastic gal jugs. Just a thought.
I have an 08 commander V8. Only has about 55k miles. Would sucking out and replacing fluid suffice? I don’t wanna drop the pan and change the filter. Would my idea work.
There are more then 10 quarts of fluid in the transmission that need to be replaced every 30-60k miles. A suck-n-fill will only get a few quarts of fluid out. A drop in the bucket. Since your ride has 55k, you are due for a full filter and fluid change. Maintenance like this will help prevent future transmission problems that are really really expensive. So spend a little time & money now to save yourself a lot of time & money later. But it is your ride. Do with it what you want.
It should be a sticker or stamped on the side of the transmission just above the oil pan on the drivers side. Alternatively, you can contact your local Dodge dealer's parts department and they can tell you from the VIN number. Good luck...
12 QUARTZ?!?! I think you misspoke a second time. 12 PINTS I'm sure you meant. Even with a complete rebuild, I don't think this transmission takes 3 gallons of fluid. Oh and QUARTS....NOT QUARTZ unless you are putting crystals back in ;-P . Factory is stating dry fill as 8 QUARTS which includes TC volume as well.
No, I meant what I said. 12 quartS. I don't know where you got your 8 quarts number from (Chiltons CliffNotes Manual?), but in the factory service manual for my truck (the one I show in the video: 45:42) on page 239, in the Standard Procedure - Transmission Fill section, it says "If transmission was completely overhauled and torque converter was replaced or drained, add 24 pints (12 quarts) of ATF+4 to the transmission." The torque converter holds 3 to 4 quarts on it's own. In addition, it took 11.5 quarts to fill my transmission during this job (see 46:22) because it sat for so long with the pan down. So the trans was allowed to drain out almost entirely, but was still dripping when I buttoned it back up. As for Quartz vs Quarts: All spelling & grammatical errors done on purpose for the proofreadingly challenged.
Wow, great detail and what if's for all us amateurs. I put a drain plug in mine too so now I can just change a few quarts here and there without this big production ever again!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. However, having a drain plug doesn't mean you don't have to do all this work every 30-60k miles. The drain plug is just a tool to help draining the pan before you remove the pan so you don't spill ATF all over the place. Draining the fluid is only part of the process. You also have to replace the filters. If you don't you'll burn up your transmission no matter how much fluid you drain/fill. The only way to get to the filters is by removing the pan.
@@petrocksgarage Based on my experience and research, other than some of the Dodges with the internal pressure- based spin-on fluid filtering, there are few other units that have this more efficient pressurized filtering. Most units have only the typical suction filtering or screen just before the pump inlet that keeps the larger, 100 micron or bigger particles from damaging the pump and beyond, but not the best filtering to prevent wear or enable longer intervals. Pressurized filters generally get particles down to 25 microns or smaller. I have never had a trans filter get full enough to reduce flow, but rather becomes more efficient. So I focus on a complete fluid and filter change only if the fluid is really bad the first time. If fluid is degrading due to excessive heat, I add an aux cooler. If I want to extend fluid drain intervals, I add a genuine Magnefine cooler line filter AND an aux cooler for towing for hot, heavy duty use. And only if I have these extras in place will I use a more expensive full syn ATF such as Amsoil or Mobil 1 or other that can literally be safely used for 200k miles with proper cooling and fine filtering. I know because I have done it and transmission still motoring along at 426k miles currently in my old truck
@@redlywaxer, while your plan is fairly elaborate and probably more work then dropping the pan & replacing the filters every once and a while, I still would advise changing the fluid & filters every 30-60k miles as the factory service manual suggests. These are automatic transmissions. So you aren't dealing with just heat issues, you are also dealing with clutch material from the clutches inside the transmission that do all the shifting work. The filter also helps prevent any metal shavings that can occur due to regular wear on the gears from damaging anything. There are plenty of forum threads online from people who's 545RFE & 45RFE trans burned up because their filters got clogged up from lack of maintenance (i.e. replacing the filters). Changing the filters isn't that difficult, nor takes that much time. Plus doing this service also allows you to clean the magnet in the bottom of the pan and inspect it to see if any metal shavings are floating around and possibly catch & fix a small problem before it becomes a big problem. But in the end, it's your truck. Do with it what you like. Good luck.
Oh yeah, clogged up filters don't make them more efficient. They become much less efficient and also cause high pressure on the inlet side and low pressure on the outlet side, all while reducing the flow of the fluid. High & low pressure and fluid flow issues can easily cause all sorts or problems in automatic transmissions given that they are primarily run off of fluid pressure. Just sayin'...
Did my 65rfe with almost your exact process. Pump. Drain plug. Etc. Wire wheel in drill cleans the pan gasket surface and grooves well. Only thing I was told by a friend that works at a transmission shop - don't use a premade gasket - these pans are designed to seal with RTV. Chrysler makes and sells a specific ATF RTV in a tube for $10. It sets up very rapidly when out of the tube. No required cure time before fill and use the transmission. It actually says you have 5-10 mins to get the pan on from the time you apply it. Thanks for the detailed video.
Yeah, a wire wheel works great on removing RTV from the pan although I wouldn't use it on the transmission mating surface. It would scratch the aluminum up pretty good. There are less abrasive scotch bright pads that work well on aluminum. As for gasket vs RTV: use whatever works for you. Both work well, IMO. The FelPro gasket I installed in this video is still on the truck and hasn't leaked a drop. Its due for a change soon though. Permatex Right Stuff is also a quick setting ATF compliant RTV and a lot less expensive than anything from the stealership. But again, use whatever product you want that is ATF compliant. Not all RTV is. Hope that helps.
I primed the cooler line canister filter before installing it on my truck and rubbed a thin layer of the Mopar atf +4 on the new filter seal also. I always just use RTV on the pan side only also!
Re lubing the filter seal: Yes. I do that too. I show it in the video around 13:01 Re priming the filter: Thats not necessary. Just starting the truck will prime the system pretty quickly. There is little to no chance of any metal on metal contact occurring without oil. Re RTV: I have too for years. However, I think I've been convinced that gaskets work just as well in this application. The Fel-Pro gasket from this video never leaked and was significantly easier to cleanup than RTV. RTV is easy to apply, but a P.I.T.A. to remove IMO. But use whatever works for you. A quality gasket works just as good as RTV, IMO. The key is to get a quality gasket like Fel-Pro, not a cheap cork or paper one that comes with the filters.
I watch your video and I was wondering is that for the same for a 2004 Dodge Durango model Transmission 42RLE AND 545 RFE ,WHICH I DON'T NO WHICH ONE I HAVE SO I WAS WONDERING IF U COULD TELL ME .I HAVE A 5.7 Hemi engine .and due u know how they change the the rear end differential fluid also.
+Michelle May, if you don't know what is installed from the factory you can call your local dealership's parts department and ask. They can look it all up based on the trucks VIN. This video does apply to the 545RFE transmission. I'm not familiar with the 42RLE transmission, but the procedure is likely very similar. The only difference would likely be the number, location & type of filters in the transmission. As for changing the rear diff fluid, I don't have a video on that yet. But the procedure is pretty universal. I have a video on how to do it on a Ford 7.5 & 8.8 rear differential that may help you out. If you have a limited slip differential (LSD) you will need to add 8oz of friction modifier to the diff oil (available at most auto parts stores). Here is the diff fluid video: ruclips.net/video/jIXoRbIIK_o/видео.html Good luck...
the gasket remover didn't seem to do anything. looks like the rtv came off just like mine always does with no remover. I use a plastic scraper and elbow grease. sometimes wood, especially for the grooves.
The gasket remover softens the RTV to the point that you don’t need elbow grease to remove it with the scraper. Yes, you can scrape off the RTV without the remover. The remover just makes it a lot easier. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
This video helped me with a 2002 Jeep Liberty (3.7L). The 45RFE Automatic Transmission was used in the 2002-early 2003 Jeep Liberty (3.7). Wanted to service the transmission and was unsure of parts to order and my service manual was not very clear as to parts and installation. Thank you. BTW like your garage name, Pet Rock. I have many pet rocks. :-)
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Re name: its the one of the kinder nicknames I got in high school and it just stuck. I too have a couple of Pet Rocks, including Pet Rock Food (sand in a can) and other related stuff. :-)
I think my 2005 WK Grand Cherokee has the same transmission, its on 108,000 miles and never been done. Mine seems to have a lock on the transmission and NO dip stick, any suggestions?
+iVlog, if its been 108k then it is long over due. I’m not sure what you mean by a lock on the transmission. If it doesn’t have a dip stick you can probably pick one up at your local dealer or junk yard.
It took 8.65 quarts to top off my transmission that includes the .25 quart from priming the filter. The Mopar ATF +4 ms 9602 jugs are 1.3 gallons which equals 5.2 quarts!
As I mentioned a couple times in the video, the amount of fluid will vary depending on a variety of factors. Thats why the service manual doesn't specify a specific amount of fluid to add during a refill. As such, the amount it takes will most likely be different the next time you do this job. Also, the amount will be different for other people's rigs if they have a different trans setup than you. e.g. use a stock vs aftermarket vs no trans cooler. Not to mention how long they let the fluid drip out when the pan is off. It takes many hours for the multiple quarts of fluid to drain out of the torque converter, for example. And even then it will only ever drain out half way.
Nice video, FYI, Rock Auto has a replacement oil pan with drain plug. My Durango's are a 2000 with 197,000 mi and 2002 with 211,000 mi both are 4 x 4 with a 4.7L engine. I am original owner and do most of my own work.
Yeah, I found out about Dorman’s replacement pan way after making this video. But I prefer to fix something rather then replace it if I can. I fixed the pan flange (and made a video about it) and its been running great ever since. No leaks. Thanks for watching & commenting.
As far as I know, the main difference is the number of gears. But other then that they are the same. Either way, the procedures outlined in this video apply to both 545RFE and 45RFE transmissions. Good luck...
Hey, just want to send a thank you for the video. Helped a bunch. Just wish I had found it before draining and removing the pan. Would have helped even more if I had watched it before starting.
Thanks for a well done video - possible tip on refilling the fluid - I was thinking you could also us the pump to reverse suction OUT of the GALLON JUG and into the refill tube of the transmission......
Thanks for step by step on how to do it both ways. With a pump and with the drain plug I will have a drain plug put in win I do it next week ant on how to install it thanks again bill
I just did this on my 2005 Dodge Ram 2500. I didn’t install the filter seal like you did. I had it on the filter. Now it doesn’t shift well into 1st . But the other gears seem fine . Do you think the seal is the problem? I’m thinking I’ll have to do this over again .
Yes, the seal could be the problem. If you install it the way you did it is likely not seated all the way in or might have been damaged in the install process. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage so I drained the fluid again and dropped the pan. The seal was clearly not seated. I removed the filter, seated the seal properly and put it all back together. Tranny shifts like a dream. No more slipping. Thanks for everything.
Hi so I need help I did my fluid change on my transmission I have a 545RFE on a dodge ram 1500 4x4 4.7, I am already at 11 quarts give or take a half quart and its still resisting me while driving, at first we had only put in 6 quarts and the truck didn't even want to move but now that I have 11 quarts in there I'm able to get It decently moving but still doesn't feel like its running a hundred percent help would be appreciated do I need to put some more fluid in or not.
It all depends on how much fluid came out while you were working on it. If the torque converter drained out, for example, then it will require more fluid. What does the transmission oil dipstick say? Go by that when the truck & tranny fluid is properly warmed up as described in your owners manual. It took me 11.5 quartz on my truck for this video. Your amount will vary. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage well thats the funny thing is it has been saying its full since 6.5 quartz but yet wouldnt move at that and finally after i put more and more its been working ever since it has had 11 quarts in it but still resisting ill check my manual or check around and see if i can figure it out
Thats pretty odd. It sounds like it is acting like its low on fluid. If it really is at the proper fluid level, maybe the filter gaskets are leaking and messing up the internal fluid pressures? Fluid pressure is very important in automatic transmissions. Either way, I wouldn't drive it around too much. You could burn up the clutches inside or something. If the problem did not occur before you started then it was caused by something you did. Since this is basically a drain, filter fill job, it can only be low or incorrect fluid, bad filter(s) or leaking filter seals. Other then that, I would recommend taking it to a local transmission shop and have them diagnose it. Good luck.
So here's my dumb question for the day...i did or at least tried to do the trans filter and fluid on my 06 dakota today. My problem is that there are 2 bolts on the back that i can't get yo easily. All I've got are hand tools. What should i use to get to these bolts. Not enough room for my socket and ratchet
Sorry for the delay, this comment fell through the cracks. I'm not sure from your description what is getting in the way. But chances are you need to find an 3" or 6" extension to get in there. Good luck...
I have a dodge durango 2002 with a 5.7 automatic but my problem is it wont shift to reverse and alot of people have tell me is the AUTOMATIC TRANS SELENOID Could that be the problem of my transmission?
If you are running a 545RFE or 45RFE then the trans shifts via an electronically controlled solenoid pack (multiple solenoids in a block to handle all shifting). It relies on a bunch of sensors to know when to shift. Therefor, there can be many many different causes for shifting issues in these transmissions. Don't guess and throw parts at it. That is like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bullseye. Transmissions are pretty complicated. Take it to a transmission shop and have them diagnose it. They should have the equipment to diagnose it correctly. It could be something as simple as a bad sensor, or difficult as a broken gear tooth. Once you know what the problem is you can decide to have the shop fix it or to DIY it. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage we checked for other issues we also checked for a broken tooth so thats good but yeah they told me too that either the automatic shift selenoid or the pack selenoid. But if it would of be the selenoid pack where would of been located and how to change it
@@andresquinonezramirez9373, the solenoid pack is accessed by dropping the pan and removing the big pate with all the bolts inside. Its not a small job, but is DIY-able. There are videos on RUclips about how to replace the solenoid pack. Hope that helps & good luck.
@@petrocksgarage yeah i think you have a video dont you like when you changing the trans oil and oil filter is that basically the same work i have to do?
@@andresquinonezramirez9373, sorry, no I don't have a video on changing the shift solenoid. I have not had to change the one on my truck yet (knock on wood), so haven't had the opportunity to make a video about it. The video I have is for changing the oil & filter, which is only half the job of replacing the shift solenoid. Its an involved process. I can't stress enough, however, that you should get it diagnosed by a transmission shop first. Don't just blindly go and replace the shift solenoid because someone (on the internet?), who hasn't seen your truck, told you that the SS was the problem. SS's aren't cheap, and are a P.I.T.A. to replace. If it doesn't fix the problem, which is a possibility, you won't be able to return it to get your money back. You'll have a higher probability of success if you have it diagnosed first. Either way, good luck.
I have the 45RFE transmission in my 99 Grand cherokee, I changed the fluid and both filters the other day, afterwards when i was about to go for a test drive the chek engine light came on and the transmission slams quite roughly into revesre and drive gear, and when to take off in drive i have to go up to 2000rpm before the car slowly is floating foward, I scanned it and received faulty code P1784, Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be?
It is hard to say what is wrong. It sounds like it has either to much or too little fluid or one of the filters is leaking (e.g. not installed correctly or bad seal) and allowing air to get sucked into the tranny instead of fluid. I definitely wouldn't drive it long distances like that. I'd get it fixed sooner rather then later. You don't want to damage your transmission. Start by checking the transmission fluid following the method outlined in your owners manual. Good luck.
I have a p1784 code on my dodge durango and I am struggling to find the problem, if you could reply to my message your fix it would mean a lot. My car currently wont even engage drive or reverse. What was your fix?
Hi, I disassembled the pan, removed the filter and plugged it in again, just to be sure that the sealing was properly assembled, and it also seemed that my fluid level was way to low, after doing this the transmission is working just as before, have you been doing any service recently to the transission?
I'd recommend the standard maintenance stuff I guess. Some items that are often neglected are brake fluid, coolant, & differential fluid. If your truck is 4x4, don't forget the transfer case. Good luck...
Oh yeah and a good thing to check are your front control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, rear leaf spring bushings, motor mounts & transmission mounts. They are rubber from the factory and don't last forever. At 200k miles they may be cracked, broken or worn out. I replaced the control arm bushings, sway bar bushings & leaf spring bushings about 20k miles ago with polyurethane bushings from Energy suspension and the truck rides like new. It had 160k miles at the time. Definitely worth the time & effort, IMO. Also check the ball joints & inner/outer tie rods. Good luck...
Good video tho..lots of good tips and makes the task look less daunting. I appreciate this..I'm sure its not easy recording all this stuff while your hands are busy with all of this I just ordered filters and fluid so the job is coming up soon. Thanks for posting!
I assume this problem didn't occur before you changed the fluid. It sounds like you don't have enough fluid in the transmission. It shifts gears and applies clutches via hydraulic pressure. If there isn't enough fluid, it can't shift or apply clutches. Good luck...
So here's my dumb question for the day...i did or at least tried to do the trans filter and fluid on my 06 dakota today. My problem is that there are 2 bolts on the back that i can't get yo easily. All I've got are hand tools. What should i use to get to these bolts. Not enough room for my socket and ratchet
I don’t know what is blocking your access, so it would be hard for me to give good advise. It all depends on what is blocking your access. If it is a skid plate or something like that, then try removing whatever is in the way to gain access. If it is the transmission mounting bracket, then I would leave the bracket alone and use an extension, wobble extension, or a Flex Socket (all available at most auto parts and tool stores) to get access to the bolts. Good luck...
i know what you mean, i have the same car. you need a flexible 1/4" ratchet. i bought mine at home depot for 25$. those 2 bolts are right above a chassy corssmember
You are absolutely right. I'll have to look at home depot. Have to drop my pan again this week to replace the shift solenoid. Any help with that? lol
Krystal Pearson, as futbolero4152 pointed out the crossmember is in the way. You don’t want to unbolt the cross member, that is a big can of worms. So my recommendation & futbolero4152’s suggestion of using a flexible socket/ratchet will do the trick. A flexible ratchets are handy but they are expensive. A flexible socket or flexible extension is much cheaper ($6 - $15). Just search for “Flex Extension” or “Universal Joint Socket”. Here are a couple links, but you can get them most tool places (even amazon): www.sears.com/search=flexible%20socket%20extension?catalogId=12605&storeId=10153&levels=Tools&autoRedirect=true&viewItems=50&redirectType=CAT_REC_PRED www.sears.com/search=universal%20joint%20socket?catalogId=12605&storeId=10153&levels=Tools&autoRedirect=true&viewItems=50&redirectType=CAT_REC_PRED
After dropping the pan and replacing the filters you should initially put in 5 quartz, wait a couple minutes for the fluid to drain out of the filler tube and then check the level. If it is still low, add more fluid a half quart at a time until the fluid starts to hit the dip stick. Once it does, take it for a drive and do a proper fluid level check as I discuss in the video around 40:00. The amount of fluid to add entirely depends on how much you allow to drip out of the tranny when you have the pan down. Its not like engine oil where you drain and fill a specific amount. You don’t want to run the motor/tranny with low fluid, you’ll easily burn up the clutch packs & torque converter. For me it was a total of 11.5 quarts to get it up to the proper level (see 46:00) because I let the tranny sit for so long (over a week). Good luck...
Both Neutral & Park put the transmission in the same state. The only difference is the parking pin is in place when in park, but it doesn't stop the transmission pump from spinning or anything like that. The key is that the pump is still spinning and flowing fluid as you check the level. Both neutral & park will do that.
Thanks. I appreciate it. The K&N filter works well. No complaints with 6 or so years of use. The box around the filter prevents it from getting flooded when it rains like my last open filter CIA did.
lakings231, it does make a sucking sound that I can hear at idle, but that's expected with any CIA. Other then that, I can not hear it over the sound of my exhaust.
@@petrocksgarage I don't know English very well my friend My car is Jeep Grand Cherokee Wj with 5-45-rfe,I think I will not refill more than 5liters.I'am right?
@@davidmkoyan5589, that may or may not be enough. Its not like filling the engine with a specific amount of oil. The transmission has a lot of nooks & crannies for oil to hide (e.g. cooler lines, torque converter). The longer the transmission pan is off, the more fluid will drip out. As a result its a bit of a procedure to get the correct amount of oil in the transmission. Too little and you can burn up the clutch packs inside the transmission. Too much and the oil with froth up and not lubricate the internals of the transmission properly. So its important that you get the correct amount in. I added an english transcription to the video years ago. If you can understand english by reading better than listening you could enable subtitles/closed caption which might help you out. Or you could download the text of the transcription and send it through translate.google.com to convert it to whatever language you speak. Hope that helps.
+Hillbilly QuadCopters (AppalachianFlyer), the motor should be off when you add the initial amount of fluid. But when you are adjusting the level afterwards you can leave the motor running if you want.
Yes, you could also lower it down by hand very carefully. Either way, Murphy’s Law will come out and bite you and you’ll spill some or all of it on yourself and/or your floor. If you remove the fluid from the pan before unbolting & lowering it, like I demonstrate in the video, you minimize the chance of spilling and making a big mess. Thanks for watching & commenting.
My 03 4.7 has 220k miles never changed before gonna attempt doing it today youve given me some confidence.. how many quarts of atf4 do i add if im just changing the 2 filters and putting it all back together?
Good luck! Re oil, it really depends on how many quarts drain out. But even that isn't a good indicator because it assumes it is full before you start. Either way, there are tons of little oil passages in the trans, and the torque converter can hold a couple quarts on its own, so it can drip for days if you let it sit. If you buy too much oil you can always return it to the store. Keep at least one quart to top it off after a few days of driving. Better to have it and not need it then to not have it and be stuck in your garage with a truck that won't move. Good luck!
Pet rock garage, Excellent video! How did you install a drain plug in your pan? Great idea & I'm pretty sure you can buy pans with drain plugs also. Great idea with the suction pump they work great.
I have a video on installing a drain plug into the pan (ruclips.net/video/KQ9yfGI1hhU/видео.html). Yes, I think Dorman has a pan available with a built in drain plug. However, it wasn't available when I made this video and the drain plug video.
Great video. I just did this this past weekend on my 2000 Grand Cherokee. I wish I had seen this video before that.
+John Wood, hopefully this video verified that you did it right. :-) Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
+Pet Rock's Garage It did indeed. It also gave me pointers on how to handle it in 30,000 miles (= Love the turkey pan. Great idea.
+John Wood, no problem. Glad to help.
I used to work at the Jiffy lube in south Scottsdale on McDowell and Miller Rd. and do the transmission flushes occasionally. Once the transmissions full and the machine is disconnected with the brake on put it through each gear for 10-20 seconds then put it back in park then check the fluid level while vehicle is operating. Between the bottom two dots if cold and the between the top to dots on the transmission dip stick.
Not for nothin'... but I've fixed/repaired more issues caused by Jiffy Lube techs than I can count. The refill procedure I outline in the video is straight from the factory service manual.
btw, most people don't have a machine to extract or add fluid to their transmission. They have to do it manually like I show in the video.
Well explained procedure. Full of useful tips.
Please tell us how did the gasket. Thanks a lot!
Thanks a lot. Gasket worked great. No leaks.
47 minute video for about 15 minutes of advice. Very clear, long explanations. good for REALLY EARLY BEGINNERS..
Thank you.
Bryan Bennecke, I’m not a pro-video creator or editor by any means. This is a hobby for me. I try to gear my videos towards the beginner & intermediate mechanic, but also try to add tips that would help someone who is experienced. However, if you’re an experience mechanic, then you will likely not be going to RUclips to find out how to do a relatively simple transmission fluid & filter change like this. Either way, thanks a lot for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
oh by any means i am not a mechanic.. LOL and yes, that's why i'm checking youtube for advice... I just changed everything like your video, minimal spilliage, also found out i was low on ATF and ...NOW... my Durango doesn't drop in gears, and will shift through all gears super smooth.. i should have done it at 50,000 instead of 130,000!!! thank you!!!
I’m glad this video helped you out. Thanks a lot for letting me know. I appreciate it. Keep an eye on the fluid. It doesn’t just disappear or get burned up like engine oil. If you are low then you have a leak somewhere. If the fluid gets too low you will experience weird behavior like you were seeing and could easily burn up the transmission. Good luck...
Good video. Thank you. Do not use both RTV and a gasket. Use one or the other. I prefer a Felpro gasket. If you use both, you are going to have a very unpleasant situation the next time you service the transmission.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re RTV & gasket: Normally I would agree with you. But in this case the pan was do dented up, and definitely not a flat sealing surface, RTV was the only option. I only used RTV in the bad parts of the pan. The rest was sealed by a Felpro gasket. I think I mentioned it in the video. There were no aftermarket pans available at the time, Dodge wanted way too much for a new one and I didn't have time to go to the junk yard to pull one. Either way, it worked like a charm actually. The next time I changed the fluid a few years ago there was only a little dampness in the back drivers side corner of the pan. I also replaced the pan this time with a Dorman one that has a built in drain plug and used a felpro gasket. So far still no leaks.
I used the Permatex Right Stuff 90 Minute gasket maker and waited and hour before torue the pan bolts to spec, and then another 1 1/2 or 90 minutes before adding transmission fluid. I have no leaks at all and have driven som three days in a row.
Yes, Permatex Right Stuff is great. I've switched to that stuff when I need RTV. However, that stuff didn't exist when I made this video.
Outstanding how to video. You show and tell so many excellent items that you check and explain which will save someone time and pain like expecting and clean each pan bolt. I can imagine that the housing would damage easily it being aluminum. Your extraction of fluid at the beginning had me thinking why. I have never done this procedure before and thinking how the transmission is so complicated and frightening to repair. This video took all that hesitation out and now I'm looking forward to do it this week on my 04 Durango 3.7. I see the $$$ I will be saving by doing it myself will be a great prime rib dinner. Your filling and testing at the end really shows the importance of correct level achievement of new fluid which I never heard or thought of prior but makes 100% sense and demonstrates you are a pro. Thanks a million. Ken
Extracting the fluid at the beginning makes dropping the pan easier. Less chance of spilling the fluid all over the floor or yourself if there is less fluid in the pan. It's not required, but it does help. I'm glad my video helped you out and saved you some cash. Thats why I make them.
Hi,I need to make sure on my 01 dakota 4.7 motor has the oil cooler filter before i change it.I seen one kit on E-bay and it shows the cooler filter and i do like the oil pan gasket u got better. Thanks pet rock.
You should be able to contact any Dodge dealer's parts department. They can look it up by your VIN number (unless your transmission was replaced since it left the factory). Good luck...
Nice video, like the way you explain every step.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
For a drain pan get a 32 gal rubbermaid/ brute garbage can lid, they come with or without center hole & they are 22" in diameter 4" high for about $10 ! you can drain just about anything without spillage 👍
Wow! Thats a really good idea. I'm going to have to get one. Thanks.
I used to do that but it only lasted a few oil changes before dragging it on the concrete wore through the plastic. With the cheap walmart oil pan, I can used it for 10 years before it starts to wear through from dragging.
Why use the pump, when you have a drain plug?
The turkey baster pan is a good idea. I have a rubber tub that's about 18" x 24" or so that I use.
I used the pump in the video to demonstrate how to easily extract the fluid for those who do not have a drain plug. The drain plug is not stock on this transmission.
Any catch pan will do the job as long as its bigger then the transmission pan.
My 2000 Durango's transmission was leaking like crazy. I looked all over the internet to solve the problem, until I found this. You covered everything I needed! Thank you very much!
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out.
Brilliant commentary
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
5 years later and this video of yours helped me immensely. Thank you.
Age of the video don't really matter as long as the info is useful. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Do you still have the Durango?. I have a Dakota and thank you for your vid’s.
Yes, I do and still running strong.
great video, but what about the oil inside the torque converter??
I wouldn't worry about it unless you've got metal shavings/chunks in your trans fluid. Half the fluid will come out of the converter if you let it drip overnight with the pan off. To get the other half would require removing the transmission and pulling the converter to drain it. Its not worth the effort, IMO. Any dirty fluid in it will be significantly diluted by the new fluid you put in at the end.
Great Video. Watched it and then did the job on a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo which was exactly the same (45RFE). Took about 7 quarts to refill. The seal on my pan filter came off with the old filter. I can see someone making the mistake of just slipping the new seal onto the new pan filter which will not seal correctly. You need to tap the new seal into place as shown in this video. After refilling, there is so much fluid in the fill tube that it's sometimes hard to get an accurate reading until it sets for an hour or so, then start and recheck for minor adjustments. As you did, measure what you take out for a rough idea of how much to put back in for a start.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad mu video helped you out.
Very well done!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thank You . This is the best how to do video I've ever seen for my 2003 Durango. All the best & stay well !!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
not sure if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me atm then you can stream pretty much all of the latest movies and series on instaflixxer. Been watching with my gf during the lockdown :)
@Carter Andy yup, have been watching on Instaflixxer for months myself :D
Uh the uh uh the uh um uh the drain plug was not stock on this model, but a sweet add on, I’ve done this twice and never had a problem with spilling. I used a transmission fluid drip pan that I purchased for $25. I would avoid using this dangerous gasket removal spray and just stick with the scraper and by golly use some paper towels to clean up
Yeah, um, the drain ah plug isn't uh stock as I said in the video, and have another video on how to install one. It comes in handy. The gasket remover is also pretty handy. Just don't inject it or let it sit for weeks and it's fine. I haven't had a problem with it in the years that I've used it. With that said, the gasket I used is holding up nicely, so I'm going to keep using them in the future since RTV is a P.I.T.A. to deal with.
Excellent diy video,probably the best I've ever watched.Thank you for taking the time to do it.I have a Dakota with the same trans,157,000 miles,fluid in it still has the reddish color,transmission shifts great.I have no idea the service history of this vehicle as I just got it.Some say don't change fluid on high mileage trans if it shifts ok as may cause issues.What is your opinion?Thank you.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
157k miles isn't high milage, IMO. But changing the fluid wouldn't _cause_ a problem. The new fluid may reveal an already existing problem. For example, a bad seal may be plugged with gunk, and not leaking yet. The new fluid may clear out that gunk revealing a leak that was just waiting to appear. IMO, better to know now rather than when out on the road. I change all the fluids in a new (to me) vehicle without exception. Hope that helps & good luck!
Thanks you helped me out.
Thanks. Glad to be of service.
Great video, fixing to change filter and fluid on transmission on 2006 Durango, but I have a little problem the dip stick filler tube is broken and when I add fluid it does not go into transmission, my question is when replacing tube ,how do you get to it to replace ?
The tube should have a couple mounting brackets that hold it in place. I'm not sure if they are in the same spot as on my '03 Durango. But you should be able to find them pretty easily by following the tube down and look for mounting brackets/bolts. Once the bolts are unscrewed you should be able to just pull up on the tube to remove it. Good luck...
Excellent video!!!....Thank you!...I will now change my fluid in my 06 Ram..
Sorry for the late reply. This one fell through the cracks. Hope it worked out for you.
@@ronyoutu, good luck!
Excellent video! Did this over the weekend on my 2002 Grand Cherokee with the V8. I used a small pair of 90-degree needle nose pliers to remove the o-ring, instead of a wrench.. Also used a gasket from the ATP kit, instead of RTV. We'll see if it leaks. Thanks for the detail!
The gasket hasn't leaked for me (yet). Its dry as a bone. Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out and good luck with your gasket. :-)
Hi Tim, I know this post is old, did your gasket hold up without the RTV? I'm in the process of changing mine now. Thank you
@@EdFilips Yep no problems at all. I did replace the pan with one that has a drain plug. Much easier to drain when necessarry!
@@EdFilips
Not sure if you would know but I was wondering how much to add if the level is almost right in the middle of the cold and hot sections. My level is almost dead center between the top cold dot and bottom hot dot. Wasn't sure if that's just a pint low or a quart low or even less than a pint. I've looked online everywhere and can't seem to find an answer.
The general rule of thumb I use is to add a half quart at a time until it reaches the proper level. You would be surprised at how much a half-quart moves the level. Of course, in-between each half-quart, run through the procedure to check the level that I describe in the video around the 42:40 mark. You don’t want to overfill, but if you do you can suck the excess fluid out with a hand suction pump like I show in the video. Good luck...
Thank you very much!!! I watched this video prior to doing this on my '02 Dakota. I have prior mechanical knowledge, but I've never messed with auto transmissions before... I watched this video while doing the task, and it made it much simpler. Thank you for posting this. I like how you went through each step in detail, it helped me out while working on the vehicle. PS: Thanks for reminding me to put my magnet back into the pan, haha. I have a feeling I would have spaced that if you had not mentioned it in the video.
Thats awesome. I’m glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Fabulous, intelligent and useful video. My 2003 Dakota 545rfe was overfilled,foaming fluid. Pumped some out...Now I am prepared to tackle this job in warmer weather.Trans is fine presently. I discovered the spin-on filter needs to be one with an upgrade serial number for good operation...Thanks for posting this.
Thanks. I'm glad my video helped you out. What upgrade serial number? I just get one from the local auto parts store and haven't had any issues (yet).
I'll look it up in my bookmarks...It was found that the ones(spinon) with an "AB" prefix tended to leak and cause slip/shift problems from a weak mount on the filter can ( I think)..will post it when I find it again.
I never thought about the RTV left over in the goddamn holes
Neither did I until I stripped out a bolt hole in the front differential on this truck and had to figure out how to install a helacoil with only a few inches of clearance. Will never forget now. :-)
Pet Rock's Garage Well thanks for the heads up.
@@curtisjohnson944, no problem. Glad to be of service.
Great video, step by step and little tips and tricks made a very complex job(for a novice like me), a lot simpler
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos helped you out.
Also, forgot to share, it is recommended to measure the oil you remove to return the same amount, as close as possible, so when you start up the oil level will be close to original.
That is a good idea, but a lot of fluid drips out once the pan has been dropped/drained, so it is hard to get an accurate measurement. In my case the truck was sitting for a couple weeks after I drained & dropped the pan so a lot more fluid came out then if it hadn’t sat for so long. But measuring the amount of fluid will get you in the ball park when you go to refill. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The first time changing the oil, I used a large cat litter plastic box (also great for cleaning parts on other projects) as I was able to retain all fluid. After changing the pan with a drain plug, all oil went into my drain pan which I then poured into plastic gal jugs. Just a thought.
I have an 08 commander V8. Only has about 55k miles. Would sucking out and replacing fluid suffice?
I don’t wanna drop the pan and change the filter.
Would my idea work.
There are more then 10 quarts of fluid in the transmission that need to be replaced every 30-60k miles. A suck-n-fill will only get a few quarts of fluid out. A drop in the bucket. Since your ride has 55k, you are due for a full filter and fluid change. Maintenance like this will help prevent future transmission problems that are really really expensive. So spend a little time & money now to save yourself a lot of time & money later. But it is your ride. Do with it what you want.
Was wondering how to figure out what transmission I have. I have a 2004 dodge ram 2500 with a 5.7Hemi?
It should be a sticker or stamped on the side of the transmission just above the oil pan on the drivers side. Alternatively, you can contact your local Dodge dealer's parts department and they can tell you from the VIN number. Good luck...
Thanks man.
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Thanks pa
You're welcome
12 QUARTZ?!?! I think you misspoke a second time. 12 PINTS I'm sure you meant. Even with a complete rebuild, I don't think this transmission takes 3 gallons of fluid. Oh and QUARTS....NOT QUARTZ unless you are putting crystals back in ;-P . Factory is stating dry fill as 8 QUARTS which includes TC volume as well.
No, I meant what I said. 12 quartS. I don't know where you got your 8 quarts number from (Chiltons CliffNotes Manual?), but in the factory service manual for my truck (the one I show in the video: 45:42) on page 239, in the Standard Procedure - Transmission Fill section, it says "If transmission was completely overhauled and torque converter was replaced or drained, add 24 pints (12 quarts) of ATF+4 to the transmission." The torque converter holds 3 to 4 quarts on it's own. In addition, it took 11.5 quarts to fill my transmission during this job (see 46:22) because it sat for so long with the pan down. So the trans was allowed to drain out almost entirely, but was still dripping when I buttoned it back up.
As for Quartz vs Quarts: All spelling & grammatical errors done on purpose for the proofreadingly challenged.
thanks for the detailed help, now i think i will wait a day
No problem & good luck.
Wow, great detail and what if's for all us amateurs. I put a drain plug in mine too so now I can just change a few quarts here and there without this big production ever again!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. However, having a drain plug doesn't mean you don't have to do all this work every 30-60k miles. The drain plug is just a tool to help draining the pan before you remove the pan so you don't spill ATF all over the place. Draining the fluid is only part of the process. You also have to replace the filters. If you don't you'll burn up your transmission no matter how much fluid you drain/fill. The only way to get to the filters is by removing the pan.
@@petrocksgarage Based on my experience and research, other than some of the Dodges with the internal pressure- based spin-on fluid filtering, there are few other units that have this more efficient pressurized filtering. Most units have only the typical suction filtering or screen just before the pump inlet that keeps the larger, 100 micron or bigger particles from damaging the pump and beyond, but not the best filtering to prevent wear or enable longer intervals. Pressurized filters generally get particles down to 25 microns or smaller. I have never had a trans filter get full enough to reduce flow, but rather becomes more efficient. So I focus on a complete fluid and filter change only if the fluid is really bad the first time. If fluid is degrading due to excessive heat, I add an aux cooler. If I want to extend fluid drain intervals, I add a genuine Magnefine cooler line filter AND an aux cooler for towing for hot, heavy duty use. And only if I have these extras in place will I use a more expensive full syn ATF such as Amsoil or Mobil 1 or other that can literally be safely used for 200k miles with proper cooling and fine filtering. I know because I have done it and transmission still motoring along at 426k miles currently in my old truck
Loved your video btw...always open to learning the tecniques of other people that are solving problems that come up as they work!
@@redlywaxer, while your plan is fairly elaborate and probably more work then dropping the pan & replacing the filters every once and a while, I still would advise changing the fluid & filters every 30-60k miles as the factory service manual suggests. These are automatic transmissions. So you aren't dealing with just heat issues, you are also dealing with clutch material from the clutches inside the transmission that do all the shifting work. The filter also helps prevent any metal shavings that can occur due to regular wear on the gears from damaging anything. There are plenty of forum threads online from people who's 545RFE & 45RFE trans burned up because their filters got clogged up from lack of maintenance (i.e. replacing the filters). Changing the filters isn't that difficult, nor takes that much time. Plus doing this service also allows you to clean the magnet in the bottom of the pan and inspect it to see if any metal shavings are floating around and possibly catch & fix a small problem before it becomes a big problem. But in the end, it's your truck. Do with it what you like. Good luck.
Oh yeah, clogged up filters don't make them more efficient. They become much less efficient and also cause high pressure on the inlet side and low pressure on the outlet side, all while reducing the flow of the fluid. High & low pressure and fluid flow issues can easily cause all sorts or problems in automatic transmissions given that they are primarily run off of fluid pressure. Just sayin'...
Did my 65rfe with almost your exact process. Pump. Drain plug. Etc. Wire wheel in drill cleans the pan gasket surface and grooves well. Only thing I was told by a friend that works at a transmission shop - don't use a premade gasket - these pans are designed to seal with RTV. Chrysler makes and sells a specific ATF RTV in a tube for $10. It sets up very rapidly when out of the tube. No required cure time before fill and use the transmission. It actually says you have 5-10 mins to get the pan on from the time you apply it. Thanks for the detailed video.
Yeah, a wire wheel works great on removing RTV from the pan although I wouldn't use it on the transmission mating surface. It would scratch the aluminum up pretty good. There are less abrasive scotch bright pads that work well on aluminum. As for gasket vs RTV: use whatever works for you. Both work well, IMO. The FelPro gasket I installed in this video is still on the truck and hasn't leaked a drop. Its due for a change soon though. Permatex Right Stuff is also a quick setting ATF compliant RTV and a lot less expensive than anything from the stealership. But again, use whatever product you want that is ATF compliant. Not all RTV is. Hope that helps.
I primed the cooler line canister filter before installing it on my truck and rubbed a thin layer of the Mopar atf +4 on the new filter seal also. I always just use RTV on the pan side only also!
Re lubing the filter seal: Yes. I do that too. I show it in the video around 13:01
Re priming the filter: Thats not necessary. Just starting the truck will prime the system pretty quickly. There is little to no chance of any metal on metal contact occurring without oil.
Re RTV: I have too for years. However, I think I've been convinced that gaskets work just as well in this application. The Fel-Pro gasket from this video never leaked and was significantly easier to cleanup than RTV. RTV is easy to apply, but a P.I.T.A. to remove IMO. But use whatever works for you. A quality gasket works just as good as RTV, IMO. The key is to get a quality gasket like Fel-Pro, not a cheap cork or paper one that comes with the filters.
I watch your video and I was wondering is that for the same for a 2004 Dodge Durango model Transmission 42RLE AND 545 RFE ,WHICH I DON'T NO WHICH ONE I HAVE SO I WAS WONDERING IF U COULD TELL ME .I HAVE A 5.7 Hemi engine .and due u know how they change the the rear end differential fluid also.
+Michelle May, if you don't know what is installed from the factory you can call your local dealership's parts department and ask. They can look it all up based on the trucks VIN. This video does apply to the 545RFE transmission. I'm not familiar with the 42RLE transmission, but the procedure is likely very similar. The only difference would likely be the number, location & type of filters in the transmission.
As for changing the rear diff fluid, I don't have a video on that yet. But the procedure is pretty universal. I have a video on how to do it on a Ford 7.5 & 8.8 rear differential that may help you out. If you have a limited slip differential (LSD) you will need to add 8oz of friction modifier to the diff oil (available at most auto parts stores). Here is the diff fluid video: ruclips.net/video/jIXoRbIIK_o/видео.html
Good luck...
the gasket remover didn't seem to do anything. looks like the rtv came off just like mine always does with no remover. I use a plastic scraper and elbow grease. sometimes wood, especially for the grooves.
The gasket remover softens the RTV to the point that you don’t need elbow grease to remove it with the scraper. Yes, you can scrape off the RTV without the remover. The remover just makes it a lot easier. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
This video helped me with a 2002 Jeep Liberty (3.7L). The 45RFE Automatic Transmission was used in the 2002-early 2003 Jeep Liberty (3.7). Wanted to service the transmission and was unsure of parts to order and my service manual was not very clear as to parts and installation. Thank you. BTW like your garage name, Pet Rock. I have many pet rocks. :-)
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Re name: its the one of the kinder nicknames I got in high school and it just stuck. I too have a couple of Pet Rocks, including Pet Rock Food (sand in a can) and other related stuff. :-)
I think my 2005 WK Grand Cherokee has the same transmission, its on 108,000 miles and never been done.
Mine seems to have a lock on the transmission and NO dip stick, any suggestions?
+iVlog, if its been 108k then it is long over due. I’m not sure what you mean by a lock on the transmission. If it doesn’t have a dip stick you can probably pick one up at your local dealer or junk yard.
Diesel? It’s a Mercedes transmission. The dipstick is a special tool at the dealer and the lock is designed to keep you out.
It took 8.65 quarts to top off my transmission that includes the .25 quart from priming the filter. The Mopar ATF +4 ms 9602 jugs are 1.3 gallons which equals 5.2 quarts!
As I mentioned a couple times in the video, the amount of fluid will vary depending on a variety of factors. Thats why the service manual doesn't specify a specific amount of fluid to add during a refill. As such, the amount it takes will most likely be different the next time you do this job. Also, the amount will be different for other people's rigs if they have a different trans setup than you. e.g. use a stock vs aftermarket vs no trans cooler. Not to mention how long they let the fluid drip out when the pan is off. It takes many hours for the multiple quarts of fluid to drain out of the torque converter, for example. And even then it will only ever drain out half way.
45rfe/545rfe deep pan 6.5 qts max
Nice video, FYI, Rock Auto has a replacement oil pan with drain plug. My Durango's are a 2000 with 197,000 mi and 2002 with 211,000 mi both are 4 x 4 with a 4.7L engine. I am original owner and do most of my own work.
Yeah, I found out about Dorman’s replacement pan way after making this video. But I prefer to fix something rather then replace it if I can. I fixed the pan flange (and made a video about it) and its been running great ever since. No leaks. Thanks for watching & commenting.
good job
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I have a 04 Dakota with tyhe Fancy 45RFE
any differences????
As far as I know, the main difference is the number of gears. But other then that they are the same. Either way, the procedures outlined in this video apply to both 545RFE and 45RFE transmissions. Good luck...
I decided to take it to the shop.... I tbink I need the main selonid
Hey, just want to send a thank you for the video. Helped a bunch. Just wish I had found it before draining and removing the pan. Would have helped even more if I had watched it before starting.
Better late than never? I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Thanks for a well done video - possible tip on refilling the fluid - I was thinking you could also us the pump to reverse suction OUT of the GALLON JUG and into the refill tube of the transmission......
+Monte “Master Sassy” Morrison, yeah that would work too but seems like more work then just using a funnel and pouring the fluid in.
I'm having trouble trying to switch a 3.7 v6 from a 42 rle transmission to a 45rfe transmission
I'm not sure how to reply to that. Good luck.
Thanks for step by step on how to do it both ways. With a pump and with the drain plug I will have a drain plug put in win I do it next week ant on how to install it thanks again bill
No problem. Glad to be of service.
So the ultra black holds up fine to ATF4 exposure? I see it list transmission pans for applications but not specifically atf4.
Yes, it holds up just fine.
I just did this on my 2005 Dodge Ram 2500. I didn’t install the filter seal like you did. I had it on the filter. Now it doesn’t shift well into 1st . But the other gears seem fine . Do you think the seal is the problem? I’m thinking I’ll have to do this over again .
Yes, the seal could be the problem. If you install it the way you did it is likely not seated all the way in or might have been damaged in the install process. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage so I drained the fluid again and dropped the pan. The seal was clearly not seated. I removed the filter, seated the seal properly and put it all back together. Tranny shifts like a dream. No more slipping. Thanks for everything.
@@604axeman, no problem. Glad you got it sorted out.
Hi so I need help I did my fluid change on my transmission I have a 545RFE on a dodge ram 1500 4x4 4.7, I am already at 11 quarts give or take a half quart and its still resisting me while driving, at first we had only put in 6 quarts and the truck didn't even want to move but now that I have 11 quarts in there I'm able to get It decently moving but still doesn't feel like its running a hundred percent help would be appreciated do I need to put some more fluid in or not.
It all depends on how much fluid came out while you were working on it. If the torque converter drained out, for example, then it will require more fluid. What does the transmission oil dipstick say? Go by that when the truck & tranny fluid is properly warmed up as described in your owners manual. It took me 11.5 quartz on my truck for this video. Your amount will vary. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage well thats the funny thing is it has been saying its full since 6.5 quartz but yet wouldnt move at that and finally after i put more and more its been working ever since it has had 11 quarts in it but still resisting ill check my manual or check around and see if i can figure it out
Thats pretty odd. It sounds like it is acting like its low on fluid. If it really is at the proper fluid level, maybe the filter gaskets are leaking and messing up the internal fluid pressures? Fluid pressure is very important in automatic transmissions. Either way, I wouldn't drive it around too much. You could burn up the clutches inside or something. If the problem did not occur before you started then it was caused by something you did. Since this is basically a drain, filter fill job, it can only be low or incorrect fluid, bad filter(s) or leaking filter seals. Other then that, I would recommend taking it to a local transmission shop and have them diagnose it. Good luck.
umm. lol if I had a $1 for ever time I heard that, I'd be umm rich. :)
umm, sorry. I’m uh not a umm professionally uh public umm speaker…
+Pet Rock's Garage teasing ya. you did good.
I ummm know and uh thanks… :-)
yup, pretty much
Pet Rock's Garage Thanks for taking the time to show this, helped a lot.
So here's my dumb question for the day...i did or at least tried to do the trans filter and fluid on my 06 dakota today. My problem is that there are 2 bolts on the back that i can't get yo easily. All I've got are hand tools. What should i use to get to these bolts. Not enough room for my socket and ratchet
Sorry for the delay, this comment fell through the cracks. I'm not sure from your description what is getting in the way. But chances are you need to find an 3" or 6" extension to get in there. Good luck...
Good thing I don't have this truck anymore! Trans was shot.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully it wasn't because you couldn't get the last couple bolts off. :-)
I have a dodge durango 2002 with a 5.7 automatic but my problem is it wont shift to reverse and alot of people have tell me is the AUTOMATIC TRANS SELENOID
Could that be the problem of my transmission?
If you are running a 545RFE or 45RFE then the trans shifts via an electronically controlled solenoid pack (multiple solenoids in a block to handle all shifting). It relies on a bunch of sensors to know when to shift. Therefor, there can be many many different causes for shifting issues in these transmissions. Don't guess and throw parts at it. That is like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bullseye. Transmissions are pretty complicated. Take it to a transmission shop and have them diagnose it. They should have the equipment to diagnose it correctly. It could be something as simple as a bad sensor, or difficult as a broken gear tooth. Once you know what the problem is you can decide to have the shop fix it or to DIY it. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage we checked for other issues we also checked for a broken tooth so thats good but yeah they told me too that either the automatic shift selenoid or the pack selenoid. But if it would of be the selenoid pack where would of been located and how to change it
@@andresquinonezramirez9373, the solenoid pack is accessed by dropping the pan and removing the big pate with all the bolts inside. Its not a small job, but is DIY-able. There are videos on RUclips about how to replace the solenoid pack. Hope that helps & good luck.
@@petrocksgarage yeah i think you have a video dont you like when you changing the trans oil and oil filter is that basically the same work i have to do?
@@andresquinonezramirez9373, sorry, no I don't have a video on changing the shift solenoid. I have not had to change the one on my truck yet (knock on wood), so haven't had the opportunity to make a video about it. The video I have is for changing the oil & filter, which is only half the job of replacing the shift solenoid. Its an involved process. I can't stress enough, however, that you should get it diagnosed by a transmission shop first. Don't just blindly go and replace the shift solenoid because someone (on the internet?), who hasn't seen your truck, told you that the SS was the problem. SS's aren't cheap, and are a P.I.T.A. to replace. If it doesn't fix the problem, which is a possibility, you won't be able to return it to get your money back. You'll have a higher probability of success if you have it diagnosed first. Either way, good luck.
I have the 45RFE transmission in my 99 Grand cherokee, I changed the fluid and both filters the other day, afterwards when i was about to go for a test drive the chek engine light came on and the transmission slams quite roughly into revesre and drive gear, and when to take off in drive i have to go up to 2000rpm before the car slowly is floating foward, I scanned it and received faulty code P1784, Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be?
It is hard to say what is wrong. It sounds like it has either to much or too little fluid or one of the filters is leaking (e.g. not installed correctly or bad seal) and allowing air to get sucked into the tranny instead of fluid. I definitely wouldn't drive it long distances like that. I'd get it fixed sooner rather then later. You don't want to damage your transmission. Start by checking the transmission fluid following the method outlined in your owners manual. Good luck.
I have a p1784 code on my dodge durango and I am struggling to find the problem, if you could reply to my message your fix it would mean a lot. My car currently wont even engage drive or reverse. What was your fix?
Hi, I disassembled the pan, removed the filter and plugged it in again, just to be sure that the sealing was properly assembled, and it also seemed that my fluid level was way to low, after doing this the transmission is working just as before, have you been doing any service recently to the transission?
Oh, and forgot to mention i am just shy of hitting 200,000 miles. So any other maintenance advice would again be greatly appreciated.
I'd recommend the standard maintenance stuff I guess. Some items that are often neglected are brake fluid, coolant, & differential fluid. If your truck is 4x4, don't forget the transfer case. Good luck...
Oh yeah and a good thing to check are your front control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, rear leaf spring bushings, motor mounts & transmission mounts. They are rubber from the factory and don't last forever. At 200k miles they may be cracked, broken or worn out. I replaced the control arm bushings, sway bar bushings & leaf spring bushings about 20k miles ago with polyurethane bushings from Energy suspension and the truck rides like new. It had 160k miles at the time. Definitely worth the time & effort, IMO.
Also check the ball joints & inner/outer tie rods. Good luck...
The screws for the pan are definitely 5/16" (if they are 8mm). (You say "15/16" at 5:03 but the caption says "5/16.")
Yeah, I messed that up. Words are hard. I used the caption to correct myself. Thanks.
Good video tho..lots of good tips and makes the task look less daunting. I appreciate this..I'm sure its not easy recording all this stuff while your hands are busy with all of this I just ordered filters and fluid so the job is coming up soon. Thanks for posting!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck.
i followed the video and my truck just revs as if it was in neutral on all gears. the gear that works is park
I assume this problem didn't occur before you changed the fluid. It sounds like you don't have enough fluid in the transmission. It shifts gears and applies clutches via hydraulic pressure. If there isn't enough fluid, it can't shift or apply clutches. Good luck...
Thank you
Were you low on fluid hector? Or something was wrong prior?
So here's my dumb question for the day...i did or at least tried to do the trans filter and fluid on my 06 dakota today. My problem is that there are 2 bolts on the back that i can't get yo easily. All I've got are hand tools. What should i use to get to these bolts. Not enough room for my socket and ratchet
I don’t know what is blocking your access, so it would be hard for me to give good advise. It all depends on what is blocking your access. If it is a skid plate or something like that, then try removing whatever is in the way to gain access. If it is the transmission mounting bracket, then I would leave the bracket alone and use an extension, wobble extension, or a Flex Socket (all available at most auto parts and tool stores) to get access to the bolts. Good luck...
I would post a pic if i could!
i know what you mean, i have the same car. you need a flexible 1/4" ratchet. i bought mine at home depot for 25$. those 2 bolts are right above a chassy corssmember
You are absolutely right. I'll have to look at home depot. Have to drop my pan again this week to replace the shift solenoid. Any help with that? lol
Krystal Pearson, as futbolero4152 pointed out the crossmember is in the way. You don’t want to unbolt the cross member, that is a big can of worms. So my recommendation & futbolero4152’s suggestion of using a flexible socket/ratchet will do the trick. A flexible ratchets are handy but they are expensive. A flexible socket or flexible extension is much cheaper ($6 - $15). Just search for “Flex Extension” or “Universal Joint Socket”. Here are a couple links, but you can get them most tool places (even amazon):
www.sears.com/search=flexible%20socket%20extension?catalogId=12605&storeId=10153&levels=Tools&autoRedirect=true&viewItems=50&redirectType=CAT_REC_PRED
www.sears.com/search=universal%20joint%20socket?catalogId=12605&storeId=10153&levels=Tools&autoRedirect=true&viewItems=50&redirectType=CAT_REC_PRED
at the end, how much did you end up filling it with? ive done everything right. and even added 6.6qts, however the durango wont move.
After dropping the pan and replacing the filters you should initially put in 5 quartz, wait a couple minutes for the fluid to drain out of the filler tube and then check the level. If it is still low, add more fluid a half quart at a time until the fluid starts to hit the dip stick. Once it does, take it for a drive and do a proper fluid level check as I discuss in the video around 40:00. The amount of fluid to add entirely depends on how much you allow to drip out of the tranny when you have the pan down. Its not like engine oil where you drain and fill a specific amount. You don’t want to run the motor/tranny with low fluid, you’ll easily burn up the clutch packs & torque converter. For me it was a total of 11.5 quarts to get it up to the proper level (see 46:00) because I let the tranny sit for so long (over a week). Good luck...
I know I'm 6 years late lol butDid you ever figure out why it was not moving?
@@zaytyga Hello. The filter was not in properly
@@futbolero4152 i thank you for responding. I'll have to be more attentive to how i do the whole service and watch very closely
21:11 kool aid man hiding out in the transmission
ooooh yeaaahh….
great turkey pan tip thx
Bobby Vincent, thanks a lot.
Very informative.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
you check fluid in neutral not park!
Both Neutral & Park put the transmission in the same state. The only difference is the parking pin is in place when in park, but it doesn't stop the transmission pump from spinning or anything like that. The key is that the pump is still spinning and flowing fluid as you check the level. Both neutral & park will do that.
great video. how do you like the k$n filter?
Thanks. I appreciate it.
The K&N filter works well. No complaints with 6 or so years of use. The box around the filter prevents it from getting flooded when it rains like my last open filter CIA did.
i heard they are really loud when you stomp on the gas is that true? i ask because i have been on the fence about getting one. thanks for the info
lakings231, it does make a sucking sound that I can hear at idle, but that's expected with any CIA. Other then that, I can not hear it over the sound of my exhaust.
nice job THANKS!
+truckee08, thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
think you i have 03
Your welcome.
good video
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
How much fluid do you refill?
It depends on how much fluid drained out. I discuss it in the video.
@@petrocksgarage I don't know English very well my friend
My car is Jeep Grand Cherokee Wj with 5-45-rfe,I think I will not refill more than 5liters.I'am right?
@@davidmkoyan5589, that may or may not be enough. Its not like filling the engine with a specific amount of oil. The transmission has a lot of nooks & crannies for oil to hide (e.g. cooler lines, torque converter). The longer the transmission pan is off, the more fluid will drip out. As a result its a bit of a procedure to get the correct amount of oil in the transmission. Too little and you can burn up the clutch packs inside the transmission. Too much and the oil with froth up and not lubricate the internals of the transmission properly. So its important that you get the correct amount in.
I added an english transcription to the video years ago. If you can understand english by reading better than listening you could enable subtitles/closed caption which might help you out. Or you could download the text of the transcription and send it through translate.google.com to convert it to whatever language you speak. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage thank you very much my friend
@@davidmkoyan5589, no problem. Good luck.
This guy talks too much.
Use the mute key?
Great video..
+Hillbilly QuadCopters (AppalachianFlyer), thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
+Pet Rock's Garage so should leave it running while im adding fluid
+Hillbilly QuadCopters (AppalachianFlyer), the motor should be off when you add the initial amount of fluid. But when you are adjusting the level afterwards you can leave the motor running if you want.
47 minutes for a `10 minute DIY video. Also, if you're going to make videos, how about investing in some LIGHTING?
For a 6 year old video made on the floor of my garage at my house with a drop light and a crappy tripod, it's not too bad IMO.
Ah ummm good video
Um, Thanks. I uh appreciate it a uh lot.
Uhh umm uhhh duhhh
Thanks. Um, I'm ah not um a professional ah speaker.
you could also just put a jack right under the transmission pan and lower the pan down ... thats what i did then spelt it out into a spill pan
Yes, you could also lower it down by hand very carefully. Either way, Murphy’s Law will come out and bite you and you’ll spill some or all of it on yourself and/or your floor. If you remove the fluid from the pan before unbolting & lowering it, like I demonstrate in the video, you minimize the chance of spilling and making a big mess. Thanks for watching & commenting.
My 03 4.7 has 220k miles never changed before gonna attempt doing it today youve given me some confidence.. how many quarts of atf4 do i add if im just changing the 2 filters and putting it all back together?
Good luck!
Re oil, it really depends on how many quarts drain out. But even that isn't a good indicator because it assumes it is full before you start. Either way, there are tons of little oil passages in the trans, and the torque converter can hold a couple quarts on its own, so it can drip for days if you let it sit. If you buy too much oil you can always return it to the store. Keep at least one quart to top it off after a few days of driving. Better to have it and not need it then to not have it and be stuck in your garage with a truck that won't move. Good luck!
Pet rock garage,
Excellent video! How did you install a drain plug in your pan? Great idea & I'm pretty sure you can buy pans with drain plugs also. Great idea with the suction pump they work great.
I have a video on installing a drain plug into the pan (ruclips.net/video/KQ9yfGI1hhU/видео.html). Yes, I think Dorman has a pan available with a built in drain plug. However, it wasn't available when I made this video and the drain plug video.