We appreciate that you’ve reached out to us for advice. I may not have been as clear as I could have been when we chatted so I apologize for that. Despite your customizations a merge in some form is the most efficient way to do this and maybe it’s just semantics at this point. Your situation is different than a standard merge in that you are not using an OEM ECU and have a standalone with PDM capabilities so you may opt to not tie into some factory components. However, once you build your Haltech to engine harness, you can save some steps and really simplify things by connecting back to the OEM bulkhead harness just like we would do with a standard merge. You noted the starter connection to a keypad which would be a great place to connect back to the OEM harness to avoid having to double up components or have to run fresh wire when it’s already in there. There are a fair number of other scenarios of where “merging” back into the OEM harness from your new harness may be beneficial and you should consider as you work through this project.
I’ve learned more about Subaru as a car brand than I will ever know about any other brand(and I literally work for a brand)…. You know why?… because you started a RUclips channel, Tanner…lol
Doing great work man. I wish I would have been as thorought when I swapped my car. But watching you do this is bringing back a ton of memories from doing the work. Makes me want to build something else. Keep it up. Excited to see the finished product.
Using a Milwaukee rachet as a hammer LOL. Proves just about anything can be a hammer when you need one. I'm enjoying the build and looking forward to seeing the finished car.
Enjoying the series on this build. It’s almost educational tbh, I’m learning a lot . I bought a 2016 STI a couple months ago so your channel has been super informative. Keep up the good work!
@@Smeedia so far so good. Still completely stock at the moment. My pockets aren’t deep enough yet for many of the mods I’ve got my eye on. Only thing I’ve done so far is replacing the stock head unit with the forged carbon fiber iDoing unit.
At 12:56 - when i was restoring my 95 mustang i used both Lizard Skin (sound & thermal barrier) 2 OEM firewall mats, road kill sound deadening, closed cell foam and 2 OEM jute mats. It's not Lexus quiet inside, but my friends say that it's amazing that you can have a low volume conversation with my big engine and exhaust. Firewalls in general are to keep engine fires and the cabin separated. The mat doesn't prevent the fire from coming in, i think it's just sound deadening, correct me if I'm wrong 🤔 run the A/C. Improves comfort and defrosting should you get caught in the rain and street car💪 you have earned my subscription, sweet project🏆
Glad to see you moving to a Haltech. I've got an 06 WRX that is currently gutted for paint and I'm also considering going to a Haltech S3 or R3. Also wanted to modify my stock harness into a firewall bulkhead connection so this is perfect timing on the content! Thanks for another great video, looking forward to the next one.
You are living out my fantasy with my old GC. I wish I never had to sell it! I did an STi swap on it back in 2011 and I miss that car bad! My ultimate goal was a 22b build, but alas, life.
@Smeedia yeah same chassis so a lot of it was just pulling out the harnesses and swapping it but then you start running into small things like top feed vs side feed so then you need different tgv housings and the connectors are different on the injectors and the tgv housings, so you delete the tgvs and the throttle connector being different so what was supposed to be a couple weeks worth of work ended up being 5 months of ordering parts to move forward to find out you need more parts
All of your builds really excite me and make me love cars again, but when you do my favorite type of stuff like Killmat!! Damn that makes me smile ear to ear! One car you should consider putting in some Luxury Liner Pro over the killmat. You won't be disappointed!!!
This is a really really awesome series. Thanks for filming all of your progress on this build, it kinda gives me the confidence to try and build a gc8 one day.
The factory wire harness in the engine bay is routed down and then up for water. If it gets wet, water will run away from the grommet instead of sitting on it and slowly seeping into the car's interior.
Yeah in my RS I just got a PnP adapter for the harness so all the functions stay oem and the after market ecu pretty much control the engine side, plus make a sub harness for the cam, crank,boost,AFR,AVCs etc… directly to the ecu. This was the simplest way in my opinion. It also allows you to easily swap the ecu in the future.
I debated it but the issue is have is all the extra sensors that I want to add. I would have to make a harness anyway to accommodate for coolant pressure, ethanol sensor, fuel pressure etc etc. the PnP work great for stock ECM cars that are getting swapped. But you still need a patch harness to go from the PnP merge to the ECM. Either way works though 💪
Tanner, does the new engine harness bulkhead quick disconnect plate you installed have a rubber gasket between the firewall and the plate? You may have water intrusion there if you do not have some sort of seal.
Ooh, should have put some tape over the A/C Expansion valve before doing that cutting next to it. Even a little depris in the A/C system can ruin new parts.
@Smeedia How's the condition of the foam on the Evap/Heater core/vents? Good opportunity to get $10 of universal foam to replace all of it if its falling apart.
Not sure with the coilovers your running but with my gc8 that has tein super streets i swapped the top hats from left to right and it gains you a degree of castor and these things need it with very little caster stock
I snagged a set of fortune autos for an 05-07 STI, just ordered the Ras top hats to be able to get them to where they should be. For the LH to RH swap is that with RS plates or STI plates?
On my road race car. I still run the stock RS master cylinder and brake booster for my brakes. I run a AP four piston bbk kit from Essex and 4 piston rear brake kit from Wilwood with no issue with the brake feel. I know people want the bigger MC but IMO it's not not really needed.
Good to know, I figured a 1/16 difference wouldn’t make a HUGE difference. From what I was reading everyone was suggesting matching the master to the brakes if possible. A new master was cheap enough I could justify it. Was only about $200 for a new OEM 1 1/16the replacement
@@Smeedia BTW, the wiring just for the engine. You should have used the factory whole. You should be been able to use a single QD connector and run the rest to the left and right like the factory wiring. I'm always afraid of wiring that close to the turbo.
@@PatrickLipsinicthat was the factory hole 👀 the harness will be made of Tefzel and DR25. I’m not stressing heat too much. Turbo and downpipe will both be cerakoted too
That piece is generally called a firewall insulator in my old muscle car industry. Saying they're sound deadening & heat insulation is pretty accurate. There's a company I worked with called Quietride who put out a product called Acoustishield. Pretty badass stuff, but they don't make things for cars like these though. I would run the AC dawg. You said it yourself, the ultimate EJ Subaru. How big of a flex is it to have working AC in a ridiculous built car? Exactly.
What’s the regulations in your state for modifications in cars like this? Interested as I’m sure you’ve seen on our EZ30 group it’s wildly different between countries and you’d never be allowed in the road with things like aftermarket subframes. Even removing a crash beam for an intercooler is a no go
Are you running an sti cluster in it or the stock rs one? That's the only thing I could really imagine would require a harness merge? Even if the haltech has its own screen which you'll most likely run based on previous videos, an sti cluster is the only shared point between ecm and body harness
Would you recommend staying away from salvage title STis if I want to buy one and rebuild it? Not rebuild to the extent you do, but refresh motor and bring it back to life type builds.
Carpet should for the most part just slide under them 🫡 Big ole blue is getting custom rear subframe done right now to accommodate the rear engine conversion
So i just bought my second wrx its a 2014 and it came with some mods including AOS, Koyorad, intake and exhaust, and thats about it for engine mods, it has 79k miles and idk if i made a good or bad choice im kind of up in the air about it
Hey Smeedia i will like your opinion on if i should go with a IAG Short block for a 2021 wrx my motor started to knock at 30k miles after doing a dig at a dragstrip had all the safety mods every oil change was done at 2k miles at the dealership and the car is stage 2
@@Smeedia there’s a single stage booster for non abs cars. That may of been what you were thinking about. The single stage is good if you want a firmer pedal but don’t want to delete the booster. It’s also thinner and weighs less.
No you dont need one. A tune would probably help make the most of them, but it will run fine without one. I also dont think anyone ever bothered cracking the ecu for those so youd need to look at getting a standalone if you did
@@PedroFTeixeira I got a Cusco one and it also adds a lot of noise. The first time I started it I thought the starter was broken. The gear box whine is annoying
@@PedroFTeixeiraI use em in every car and they’ve never bothered me before. The group N is a nice middle point if you want one a bit firmer but not as much NVH
Saw that subframe on the wrc car? Or it was a really good replica, had a weird rear diff i imagine is the wrc one with dogbox. ruclips.net/video/YPYOWUBnZvk/видео.html
We appreciate that you’ve reached out to us for advice. I may not have been as clear as I could have been when we chatted so I apologize for that. Despite your customizations a merge in some form is the most efficient way to do this and maybe it’s just semantics at this point. Your situation is different than a standard merge in that you are not using an OEM ECU and have a standalone with PDM capabilities so you may opt to not tie into some factory components. However, once you build your Haltech to engine harness, you can save some steps and really simplify things by connecting back to the OEM bulkhead harness just like we would do with a standard merge. You noted the starter connection to a keypad which would be a great place to connect back to the OEM harness to avoid having to double up components or have to run fresh wire when it’s already in there. There are a fair number of other scenarios of where “merging” back into the OEM harness from your new harness may be beneficial and you should consider as you work through this project.
I’ve learned more about Subaru as a car brand than I will ever know about any other brand(and I literally work for a brand)…. You know why?… because you started a RUclips channel, Tanner…lol
I am glad that we can all Learn together 😅💪
Now go buy one! Outback wilderness
@@Christosan88 I’mma buy a ‘92 Caprice Classic before I buy a Subaru, but I’ve learned so much!
Amazing how taking pics with our cell phones has become almost essential to assembly/disassembly!
It saves SO much time when putting things back together 😂
It’s nice if you remember to do it. I get half way into any disassembly project before i remember my music device actually has a camera lol
Brother! You're going to be your own prodrive shop!!!
I don’t know about that but we can build some cool stuff 😅🔥
As prodrive dont make bespoke for subaru anymore..tanner is now the guy
This is your most interesting project so far. That shape ages better than any other Subaru.
Doing great work man. I wish I would have been as thorought when I swapped my car. But watching you do this is bringing back a ton of memories from doing the work. Makes me want to build something else. Keep it up. Excited to see the finished product.
Using a Milwaukee rachet as a hammer LOL. Proves just about anything can be a hammer when you need one.
I'm enjoying the build and looking forward to seeing the finished car.
lol it definitely got the job done 😂
I’m so excited to get this thing driving. It was a WAYS to go. But any progress is good progress 💪
Enjoying the series on this build. It’s almost educational tbh, I’m learning a lot . I bought a 2016 STI a couple months ago so your channel has been super informative. Keep up the good work!
Trying to add in any extra Tid bits of information I find out 😅 how’s the STI been treating ya?!
@@Smeedia so far so good. Still completely stock at the moment. My pockets aren’t deep enough yet for many of the mods I’ve got my eye on. Only thing I’ve done so far is replacing the stock head unit with the forged carbon fiber iDoing unit.
At 12:56 - when i was restoring my 95 mustang i used both Lizard Skin (sound & thermal barrier) 2 OEM firewall mats, road kill sound deadening, closed cell foam and 2 OEM jute mats. It's not Lexus quiet inside, but my friends say that it's amazing that you can have a low volume conversation with my big engine and exhaust.
Firewalls in general are to keep engine fires and the cabin separated. The mat doesn't prevent the fire from coming in, i think it's just sound deadening, correct me if I'm wrong 🤔 run the A/C. Improves comfort and defrosting should you get caught in the rain and street car💪 you have earned my subscription, sweet project🏆
The amount of work i've been able to do to my own cars because of your channel is insane, so thank you. Got a short throw shifter on the way
Glad to see you moving to a Haltech. I've got an 06 WRX that is currently gutted for paint and I'm also considering going to a Haltech S3 or R3. Also wanted to modify my stock harness into a firewall bulkhead connection so this is perfect timing on the content! Thanks for another great video, looking forward to the next one.
What you mean I’ve always used Haltech 🥲 like the EG33 has been in an elite 2500 for 2 years and the RX7s always been in a haltech 😅
@@Smeedia I meant on this vehicle. I haven't watched your build videos on any of those cars.
You are living out my fantasy with my old GC. I wish I never had to sell it! I did an STi swap on it back in 2011 and I miss that car bad! My ultimate goal was a 22b build, but alas, life.
That subframe !
It is a work of art 😍
The dream is moving along brother. Keep killing it!! Looking great!
Finally a video of the car and not your face for 90 percent of it, keep it up.
I feel like my face was in this MORE than any recent past ones 😂😅
Just finished doing a complete harness swap on my car with a manual harness so a lot of this was done and looks very familiar
How was doing the swap? Just pull the old and swap in new? 👀
@Smeedia yeah same chassis so a lot of it was just pulling out the harnesses and swapping it but then you start running into small things like top feed vs side feed so then you need different tgv housings and the connectors are different on the injectors and the tgv housings, so you delete the tgvs and the throttle connector being different so what was supposed to be a couple weeks worth of work ended up being 5 months of ordering parts to move forward to find out you need more parts
My future car is coming together nicely. Thank you sir.
Piece by piece 😉
All of your builds really excite me and make me love cars again, but when you do my favorite type of stuff like Killmat!! Damn that makes me smile ear to ear! One car you should consider putting in some Luxury Liner Pro over the killmat. You won't be disappointed!!!
As tedious as it seems, the satisfaction of the cleaned up harnesses is almost unmatched. Keep on truckin Tanner. 💯🤘
It was so tedious but so worth it, it looks 100X better
Love the build! This has motivated me to do something like this with my 2007 Impreza 2.5i. Make it more of a rally car for the back roads.
started the video. just commenting for support👍
🫶🫶🫶
Omg build series is 🔥. No ac in build
Hey we might add it in 😂😅
AC helps dry the air and defog the windows, helps quite a bit here in PNW
This is a really really awesome series. Thanks for filming all of your progress on this build, it kinda gives me the confidence to try and build a gc8 one day.
Wire harnesses: the number one reason ive never built a whole ass car from scratch.
I promise they’re not that bad 😅
The factory wire harness in the engine bay is routed down and then up for water. If it gets wet, water will run away from the grommet instead of sitting on it and slowly seeping into the car's interior.
Ahhhhh that makes sense! I figured it may have been there invade repairs needed to be made 😅
Yeah in my RS I just got a PnP adapter for the harness so all the functions stay oem and the after market ecu pretty much control the engine side, plus make a sub harness for the cam, crank,boost,AFR,AVCs etc… directly to the ecu. This was the simplest way in my opinion. It also allows you to easily swap the ecu in the future.
I debated it but the issue is have is all the extra sensors that I want to add. I would have to make a harness anyway to accommodate for coolant pressure, ethanol sensor, fuel pressure etc etc. the PnP work great for stock ECM cars that are getting swapped. But you still need a patch harness to go from the PnP merge to the ECM. Either way works though 💪
You’re gonna want AC homie. 🤙
Tanner, does the new engine harness bulkhead quick disconnect plate you installed have a rubber gasket between the firewall and the plate? You may have water intrusion there if you do not have some sort of seal.
I added one behind it 💪 it did not come with one though.
just got my first manual its a 05 subaru wrx 2.5rs drove 2 hours home only stalled once :)
Eyyy not bad and gotta start somewhere 🥳
Great work 👍 wish I had your patience … love that front subframe . Gd luck
Jam out to some pod casts when you do tedious work, definitely helps make it go by quicker 😅
Yeah this is going to be my favorite car you have built/own 🤣
Ooh, should have put some tape over the A/C Expansion valve before doing that cutting next to it. Even a little depris in the A/C system can ruin new parts.
I can blow it out, chances are I’m not using AC anyway but I’ll clean it up a bit 🫡
@Smeedia How's the condition of the foam on the Evap/Heater core/vents? Good opportunity to get $10 of universal foam to replace all of it if its falling apart.
@@stevemarteganitbh really good, I have new foam here but didn’t see a need to swap it 💪
That mat for the firewall is a jute mat. It’s for sound deadening and also to help with blocking heat from the engine bay
Figured as much, wasn’t sure if had any type of fire retardant in them or not
It’s looking so good!!!
She coming together 🥳
Good progress!!!
Hyped we can reuse the factory wiring 🎉
Not sure with the coilovers your running but with my gc8 that has tein super streets i swapped the top hats from left to right and it gains you a degree of castor and these things need it with very little caster stock
I snagged a set of fortune autos for an 05-07 STI, just ordered the Ras top hats to be able to get them to where they should be.
For the LH to RH swap is that with RS plates or STI plates?
@@Smeedia thats with tein camber adjustable plates
Looking good sneeda 👍💪✌️
Thanks Jimmy 🥳🥳
A/C is not a question.. 100% YES to A/C... lol
If it will fit I can add it in 😅
Checking in Chief 🫡
22.5B is comimg together mighty nice
No start issue was due to timing lol
Waiting on my grimmspeed 3 port boost solenoid 😶🌫️
Timing just off from where it should be? 👀
@@SmeediaYessir. I have it retarded 2 teeth for the single AVCS (until I secure funds for the jdm ecu and avcs kit)😅
Nice progress👌🥳
another bannger video! Its starting to look like a car now!!! 👀
One piece at a time 🙌
Crazy idea… Build a mid engine baja😂 I’m working on fixing one up right now and it would be a super cool car to do something unique with🤷🏼♂️
love it tanner
Coming along 💪
On my road race car. I still run the stock RS master cylinder and brake booster for my brakes. I run a AP four piston bbk kit from Essex and 4 piston rear brake kit from Wilwood with no issue with the brake feel. I know people want the bigger MC but IMO it's not not really needed.
Good to know, I figured a 1/16 difference wouldn’t make a HUGE difference. From what I was reading everyone was suggesting matching the master to the brakes if possible. A new master was cheap enough I could justify it. Was only about $200 for a new OEM 1 1/16the replacement
@@Smeedia BTW, the wiring just for the engine. You should have used the factory whole. You should be been able to use a single QD connector and run the rest to the left and right like the factory wiring. I'm always afraid of wiring that close to the turbo.
@@PatrickLipsinicthat was the factory hole 👀 the harness will be made of Tefzel and DR25. I’m not stressing heat too much. Turbo and downpipe will both be cerakoted too
Looks fun.
The cleaning not so much everything else yes 😅
That piece is generally called a firewall insulator in my old muscle car industry. Saying they're sound deadening & heat insulation is pretty accurate. There's a company I worked with called Quietride who put out a product called Acoustishield. Pretty badass stuff, but they don't make things for cars like these though.
I would run the AC dawg. You said it yourself, the ultimate EJ Subaru. How big of a flex is it to have working AC in a ridiculous built car? Exactly.
I mean having AC would be nice, I’ll have to see how much all the AC stuff is 😅
Are you going to slap in any mass loaded vinyl? Second Skin makes a very good product called "Luxury Liner Pro"
good job man 👍💪
probably for right hand drive steering and accessories that hole in the firewall
What’s the regulations in your state for modifications in cars like this? Interested as I’m sure you’ve seen on our EZ30 group it’s wildly different between countries and you’d never be allowed in the road with things like aftermarket subframes. Even removing a crash beam for an intercooler is a no go
We don’t have any, no testing or inspections. So pretty much anything is a go. Plus cars over 25years old anyway wouldn’t need any inspection
Hey bro, how do I get in contact with you to work on my launch edition? I would like some direction please and thanks.
Tannerwrx525@gmail.com 🫡
Are you running an sti cluster in it or the stock rs one? That's the only thing I could really imagine would require a harness merge? Even if the haltech has its own screen which you'll most likely run based on previous videos, an sti cluster is the only shared point between ecm and body harness
Ok but, i saw your post earlier @Smeedia... are you turning the STI into a mid engine?? 😮
Yes 👀
@@Smeedia I'm here for it 🔥🔥🔥
Hey man did you ever upgrade your EG33 valve springs and if you did what ratings did you use?
glad we aren't going to have to deal with another rx7 harness 😂
Yeahhhh we making our own from now on after that 😂
Where do you recommend getting a tubular sub frame for a GD?
Moore sport is what I have, I know TSS makes them too
I'd love to build a GC coupe like this someday. But unfortunately I probably never will.
Would you recommend staying away from salvage title STis if I want to buy one and rebuild it? Not rebuild to the extent you do, but refresh motor and bring it back to life type builds.
Depending on the state of the car/chassis then yea go for it. But if its properly fucked then nah
Like disc said, if it’s just a car for fun 100% if the damage is not crazy. You can scoop some decent cars with salvage titles for pretty cheap 💪
salvage title, its hard to find insurance
Carpet under the pedals too? or no? update on BLU #1?
Carpet should for the most part just slide under them 🫡
Big ole blue is getting custom rear subframe done right now to accommodate the rear engine conversion
So i just bought my second wrx its a 2014 and it came with some mods including AOS, Koyorad, intake and exhaust, and thats about it for engine mods, it has 79k miles and idk if i made a good or bad choice im kind of up in the air about it
So why does it matter on the clutch master as well just curious
Excuse me if you already mentioned it but are you gonna put a 2.2 in it?
2.5L, I can make a 2.5 rev out just as far and keep a little extra displacement. It also helps that I’ve got an abundance of 2.5L parts 😅
Hey Smeedia i will like your opinion on if i should go with a IAG Short block for a 2021 wrx my motor started to knock at 30k miles after doing a dig at a dragstrip had all the safety mods every oil change was done at 2k miles at the dealership and the car is stage 2
Tanner. Non abs masters have 4 lines out not one. It’s also has 2 inlet ports
Correct 4 lines out, idk where I saw a single stage master for non abs but I swear I saw one
@@Smeedia there’s a single stage booster for non abs cars. That may of been what you were thinking about. The single stage is good if you want a firmer pedal but don’t want to delete the booster. It’s also thinner and weighs less.
Why do all this work to restore and not have A/C?
Hey Tanner ive been a little mixed up do i need a tune for my 97' Subaru Outback Sport if i put uel headers on it? It is a NA car
No you dont need one. A tune would probably help make the most of them, but it will run fine without one. I also dont think anyone ever bothered cracking the ecu for those so youd need to look at getting a standalone if you did
Haltech instead of motec?
I’ve never used a motec before 😅 motec is also like 4X the cost
@@Smeediadoes bader tune haltech?
Do you feel the wrx 5spd is really that bad?
Yes lol
@@Smeedia my 98 rs has been holding up fine for 5 years with stock 06 wrx clutch and 302 who and 360 ftlb torque. Just need to know how to drive lol
@@jeff666ponce you get past 400WTQ is where they really start to give out. If planning to stay below that, they’re just fine.
Smeedia!
Omi!
the 22B playlist is out of order :')
There has 2 b some bloopers in these blogs 😡🤬😂
Here I am
JOE WELCOME 🫡🫡
He’ll yeah 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
🥳🥳🥳
Ok....i know you have adhd because you used touch up paint on where you cut where its not even visible because of the plate you fitted lmao 😂
It could rust if we don’t cover up the bare metal 😅
I think you mean OCD
😎👍🏻👍🏻
TOMMMM MY MAN!
I think you will regret having that gearbox mount. It's so noisy... It's like having the starter and the gearbox in your lap.
It has the factory mount right now? Or are you referring to the pitch stop?
@@Smeedia pitch stop.
I used one, removed it immediately because of the noise.
Depends on the "comfort" level you want.
@@PedroFTeixeira I got a Cusco one and it also adds a lot of noise. The first time I started it I thought the starter was broken. The gear box whine is annoying
@@PedroFTeixeiraI use em in every car and they’ve never bothered me before. The group N is a nice middle point if you want one a bit firmer but not as much NVH
Here’s my thought, air conditioning: better to have it, and not need it, and then need it and not have it.
Saw that subframe on the wrc car? Or it was a really good replica, had a weird rear diff i imagine is the wrc one with dogbox. ruclips.net/video/YPYOWUBnZvk/видео.html
This one is a Moore sport subframe, not sure on what they used 👀
Run AC!!!
Lemme see how much it would be to add it back on 😅
@@Smeedia let me know. I'll definitely chip in!!!
@Smeedia I know someone 😉. Just need to let me know what you need brother.
👀
👀👀👀👀
RUN AC IN ATLEAST ONE OF YOUR CARS PLEASE 😂😂😂