Ribbon Burner Casting the Refractory
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- Опубликовано: 18 дек 2017
- This video shows casting the refractory for the ribbon burner, focusing on the mold, and the firing process. This Ribbon Burner is designed for use in a propane fired gas forge. The refractory used was ANH medium Density castable refractory, also found under the kastolite brand name.
This series draws inspiration from the 2006 ABANA Hammers Blow article on building a ribbon burner. 
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Wow! This is the most exhaustively explained ribbon burner tutorial i ever watched. Thanks! (Instant subscriber :)
Beautiful casting.
Great job explaining.Thanks
Great series thanks for the time and instructions
Your welcome. Thank you for watching!
Like the sound of how to do, This I will try to get it done.
Thanks
Also the cure process of drying sounds important so I try to get it right
Thanks for the great video,
Looks like a great video for I hope to also have a ribbon burner,
Thanks I appreciate your help
Count The American Piddler in as a new subscriber! Great CHANNEL!
CLEARED A FEW PROLUMS I WAS HAVING GREAT VIDEO THANKS AN GOD BLESS..
Robert Snaza s ... bccxcćvv vvvv ćvvv vvvvvvbg
Plug the straws with something- blue tack, plasticine, cigarette filter materials; makes it easier when filling the cast
Thinking drilling holes in burner body along the mounting surface may aid in not only seating burner body but also help with adhesion.
perfect video, you can susitute castable refractary, with a mix 1 part of sand, 1 part of gypsum and one part of water, (in volume parts, means 1 cup sand 1 cup gypsum 1 cup water) and well is not perfect but could be a solution for lot of perssons around world, god bless you, thanks for share your time and knowledge
and You have a subscriber from Polland now. Wish you a quadrillions of subscribers ;) and God bless You.
Thank you, I hope you are enjoying the series, and finding it helpful.
SmithinStu OMG....you have NO idea how many designs I have looked at, the ridiculous amount of hours I have trawled the Internet for this information! Thank you soooo much. Gimme your P.O.box and I'll send you both a bottle of scotch (I genuinely mean this, send me your P.O.box details and I will send you each a bottle of good scotch, not that American piss aka bourbon....yuck, I mean single malt aged 25 years, direct from Edinburgh, I have a very good stash 😊). I didn't want to spend $200 (then another $135 on delivery and import tax) on this burner considering I knew it couldn't be that hard a build, it is just knowing how to do it. The straws! Genius simplicity at its finest, Thank you so much friend, and HAPPY CHRISTMAS to you and yours.
Btw, I have everything to make this! Yay, I will make mine and post you a pic when made 😀
I am glad you found it helpful! I appreciate the offer, but I would prefer if you share your new knowledge and help other smiths along the path. I would not have been able to build this without Dan's help. And the forging community at large has helped me significantly. So please pass it on and help others to get started forging.
I heat treated my ribbon burner rhs mount the second time around before casting to draw all the warping out. It can crack the cast at first firing. The stuff does bend.
Thanks for the great video. Have you ever thought about trying plasticizer? its used in concrete to reduce water and sometimes thats all that is used for high strength concrete.
A thermometer is a good way to check ovens for they can vary.As don't want to go over temp
@1:55 rotates square bar to measure height
Enjoying your videos. How do you determine the size of this ribbon burner in relation to the volume of your forge?
You can make the castable much wetter and use a grouting bag to fill it
Or a plastic bag with the corner cut off.
or just pour it in with a bucket.
interesting action after @09:30, heat treatment after @11:00, no fire testing in this video.
Why has noone made a long ribbon burner with an actuator in the fuel box to control the flow of how many burners are open? If you're heating a horseshoe, use a few nozzels, if you're heating a huge I-beam throw em all on. It'd just be a matter of minor electrics, none of which would really tank much heat. You could install three in the refractory to provide 180 degree heating by having two set 45 degrees astride your top ribbon for some serious heat variance as required.
Stu, excellent video !!! What in the hottest you operate your kiln?
I have forge welded parts using this style of burner, that's hotter than I run the forge for typical production forging operations.
What is that release you were spraying before casting.
WD40
Why not use hot glue sticks and melt them out or something that melts easy to make the holes
have you ever considered putting a littlebit of very fine chicken wire about halfway through just to give it a little more strength in case you accidently drop it?
I have not, once installed I am not removing the burner.
Couldn't find the castable you used was going to use Accomon-45 is this suitable? I found it on eBay rated at 2822°f
k SMITTY I am not familiar with that. if your planning to order, look up high temperature tools in Google. they sell refractory and everything needed for insulating a forge best part is they will sell partial bags of most of the refractories they supply.
Think a ceramic brick be drilled with a bunch holes than attached a metal chamber
Paul Tavres yes possibly with a soft brick, but those bricks tend to not have as high a melting temperature as some castable refractories.
Even a lower temp soft brick will work. You're pushing cold air through it constantly. I have had decent success rigidizing soft brick with either colloidal silica or sairset mortar diluted 10 to 1 with water as a wash (works well on kaowool too)
HowLong did it cure before formwork removal?
Frost Knives when this was filmed it was December here in the states so it was given a week to cure in a 50F shop before removing. With a warmer curing environment say room temp maybe 24 to 36 hours.
Worked great and complete video of the build
Orton controller but brand of oven? Thanks!
KillerKane paragon kiln.
I feel like dowel rods would be much easier to deal with for the holes and if cast sticking to the wood is an issue just do a thin layer of epoxy on them! I'd imagine that'd be much less tedium than the straws.
MidnightMarrow I just poured one of those today and I would recommend straws due to the fact very easy to pull out the form work after it cured a week.
Watch my video. Straws strip easy
The big benefit of straw is that since they are hollow, they can collapse and have a smaller diameter the hole. They are easy to cut and cheap. But in the end there is more than one solution to the problem.
Use crayons just make sure no jarheads are close or they will eat
Crayons are easier.
Can you please send me a link for Crayons-Ribbon Burner?
@@momcilodragisic429 instead of 19/64 ths for straws use 5/16 ths holes for crayons and drill them out after you have let cast set for three days and then rest in the open air for an hour or two.