TILED FLOOR FAILURE
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2018
- I felt really bad for this lady after having seen how poorly her floor was done. The time and money wasted, not to mention the resolution which will cost even more ! Please do not allow THIS to happen to you !
THE BUCKET TEST • EASY WAY TO GROUT TILE 
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You can see how I get lippage free tile on link at 8:34..ruclips.net/video/oVO_JUeED0w/видео.html
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StarrTile it looks like hell...I prefer random patterns rather than a consistent offset.It looks like steps.
You should have money if your this great tiler why you asking for money
Craig Finno .. the explanation for that is coming very soon in a video I will be posting, nearly everybody makes money off of RUclips from Google, if I were still getting paid from them I would be averaging nearly two grand a month, they demonetize me so in order for me to me motivated to put out content I ask for donations.. if I'm not getting paid by somebody then what motivation do I have to put out content?
Why are you the only one not gettin paid
Josh Norton ..😂😂😂 what happened to number 5, a guy who just doesn't like to see people waste money, and therefore shows the ignorant what to look for before it gets to this point
While I generally agree with you- I disagree with starting at high points and using thinset to level out your tile. You need to use a large tooth trowel for floors and back butter for sure but if you grind high spots and use a leveling spacer the problem disappears! Seems like some of what you are critiquing is overkill. Some of it is spot on- the tile guy that did that job wasn’t great. The only clients we want to work with have no problem paying for a leveling system (Progress is great) and epoxy or single component grout and don’t mind us taking a little more time leveling everything so we don’t have issues like lippage or efflorescence in the grout. And don’t look past the material being junk! Most of the large format tile that is so popular these days is far from being truly flat! That’s why we will never again do a job without some sort of a leveling system to ensure that we can make everything as flat as possible. It costs more but is well worth it for the result you achieve. We “stop sign” every toilet. Perfect circle cuts are beautiful and all but let’s be real here.... overkill. I applaud what you’re doing for consumers that don’t understand what good tile work is! Thanks for your videos.
Personally, I cant wait for these plank tiles to go out of fashion. The longer they are, the more problems I get. Recently had a job come up, 800mmx250mm, 70 metres. I put 2 random tiles together face to face and they rocked like a see-saw! Dont care how good you are and im pretty good, there is no way you are going to get tiles that bad to look good, lash clips or not.
These are not first quality tiles.
This is a commercial quality.
First quality even at 1200mm x 150mm. you have a perfectly level surface.
Price - about 200 euros per square.
It would be a pleasure to sell them if there was one to put them properly.
:)
Thats why you dont lay them in a straight or brick pattern. It even says that on the boxes most of the time. Lay them random or like this floor was layed and you can make a smooth level floor.
Dam planks 😠🤣😂😅. I have put around 15k feet in this year and burnt out on them. They keep getting longer and more bowed. I finished 300ft of 4"x30" planks on harringbone and hopefully my last planks for the year
not excactly correct you can do reasonable work with these first you turn tile around to see back these plank are cut from 24x48 so you sort if they are cut as i say you match factory to factory edge when setting, water cut edge to water cut edge never exceeding 1/3 stagger back butter all, use level system if desired but floor must be level first you can knock down floor with diamond cup but will still require skim or self leveler or both i use only mapei mortar. all the same any one can pick apart a job does not require lot of skill for that
You must not have used large format tile mud an yea it matters
FYI You can grind down concrete. They make a grinder wheel designed for this. As a 20 year flooring veteran, I assure you it is possible to grind down small humps in concrete. Use masks and a vacuum!!! 👍
Just Stuff ...unfortunately most professionals don't want to do small patch jobs...only big jobs...so they don't like to waste there time on little stuff 😒
Grinding concrete to flatten out a customers floor is never a waste of time. Did a 1500 basement that we had to grind spots, nothing small about that.
Absolutely, you can buy what looks like a floor buffer but it has carborundum blocks under it and it is like sanding the floor. you can get a even floor or just use self leveler. I installed Amtico flooring and would NEVER do a install if it did not have self leveler and primer.
Yes. But you must wash & dry the floor before you start tiling.
T E C C yup I do it for hardwood all the time also you use self leveling first
I did my own 6 x 8 bathroom following your advice. It turned out really good. My only issue was that I took too much time and my thunder dried the first time. Minor issue. But I started at the high point and worked out following the tile. It’s only a small bathroom but I’m proud I did it. However, I would never try to pass myself off as a tiler in any way. You have to have major skills to pull off an 800 Snr foot job like that. A small bathroom stresses me out and took me 3 days. Thanks for the videos
Alan Gramont 800 sqft is not that much... 🤦♂️
From a professional point of view I see your point and thank you for your detailed input for perfection or as close as humanly possible...especially if you're paying for someone to do this...but from a DIY point of view...that looks pretty damn good...I did the tile in my own home...unfortunately not everything is as perfect as what you or some other professional might have done...but I'm pretty proud I did it myself...but I'll make sure to remember your tips for the next go around 😉
De De ...if you would've done this more perfect then you probably do this more often than a DIYer and are therefore NOT a DIYer...DIY ppl don't do jobs like this very often...and therefore aren't perfect...just like I'm not a DIYer with automotive...I'd be classified more as a mechanic since I do that much more often...but it's not my day to day job...so again as a 'DIYer' it looks pretty damn good.
This job isn’t as terrible as he is suggesting. It could be tidied up and a few of the lippage tiles replaced.
Recently did my own kitchen and dining room, it's not perfect but I'm ok with it as it was done by myself and I'm no professional.. I picked a much darker grout to blend with the tiles better and make it look more like a wood floor with no gaps
I've used these tiles. They can make any decent installer question their abilities. Twist, warp, cup, sizing, you name it, these tiles have it.
You ain't joking.
Product Product Product....
only in consideration to the ends or the butt joints.. It's like come on manufacturer, it's not slate... jeez! but you often get what you pay for right, contractor or product?
I love the challenges.. Just did plank LVT on friggin warped chip board. And said "ya know what... screw it.. you want some nice herringbone bro"?... Lmao.. 14 hrs later 1200 square feet herringbone with custom walkways flat as a pancake... but hey that's just me
paul mryglod he doesn’t say that though... find that interesting
Thanks for your videos man, always good watching you.
I blame the 'know it all' owner. They think its easy, thus, it should be cheap, fast and perfect. Anyone can do it even them, but they don't have the time so they hired out. They don't want to pay for any extras either, like, leveling systems, leveling floors, pulling baseboards and haul away. Customers routinely ask, "how much do you charge a sqft?" Expecting it to be $1.50 sqft. They buy the cheapest tile, thinset, grout, and expect the installer to perform magic. It's like giving Leonardo da Vinci crayons and expecting him to remake the mona lisa.
then the contractors should quote the price it costs to do it right and if the person doesnt want to pay that, dont do the job.
the truth is as long as there are some contractors who will do whatever job so long as it pays, even if it doesnt pay enough to do it properly, then there will always be half assed jobs like this. The customer doesnt know what it costs. the sollution isn't to undercut all the other contractors so you get the job and then screw it up.
I have been a tile setter for about three days now. It is hard work, I will not live long enough to be really good. I will only do a job if it is real small, may e for a flipper.or rental. People have big balls taking on jobs in other people's houses and suck at what they do
This was a horrible job, that particular tile should run around 7-12 per square foot. The amount of floor prep involved is insane.
If you are going to use a clip level system you're going to spend around 300 just for the snap away clips
At the end of the day it’s manual labor. It shouldn’t be expensive. There are plenty of contractors that are skilled but don’t rip you off. Next economy collapse it’ll be fun seeing your prices go down
Graeme Evans ...Then he will never have any work ...because most cusotmers are miserable and wont pay for all the prep work needed. You do what the customer asks for ...if it's gonna be shit ....that's their fault
I have been installing tile for 26 years. I grind down high spots on EVERY JOB. If this guy doesn't know that, don't listen to a word he says. You can buy the concrete grinding wheel at every Lowe's and Home Depot and attach it to your 4 inch angle grinder or 7 inch grinder. They even make an attachment that you can hook up your shop vac to and eliminate the dust. Sometimes it's easier to grind down the peaks than to fill the valleys in your floor. Depends on your floor. Any good installer knows this
From watching this video, and the 9 years of experience I have, this dude does not know what he is talking about. When he said they must not have a wet saw because of the cuts, around the toilet, that made me laugh. The only way I can get round cuts is with an angle grinder. I agree completely that you can grind down the floor. That floor defiantly could have been patched. I'm almost offended like this man is preaching a false gospel or something.
Would you really grind down all of the high points in a floor this size ? Looks even too big an area to use self levelling to me. I would do as this guy says and have a thick tile bed after grinding down & filling in any obvious high / low points.
Depends on how many peaks there are. I would either grind the peaks or self level the valleys, depends on what there is more of. And 800 feet isn't a large job, it's kinda small. Here in Florida, most of the jobs are 1800 sf and up. I can usually grind a peak down in less than a minute with my 7 inch grinder
Thanks Tim ! When I heard "you can't sand down concrete" I was laughing my ass off!!!
Floating to the high spots on the floor can lead you to be 1 inch higher than the thresholds of the front and back door. I've seen it happen. You are USUALLY better off grinding down the peaks. And the customers usually don't have a clue, otherwise they would do it themselves and save several thousand dollars
In a project this big, would you use the tab things that even out intersection/joints to avoid lippage?
Doesnt seem practical/possible to win a bid adding 2-300 dollars...
Luckily I was taught by a tile guru like yourself and plank is honestly my favorite tile to install I love the challenge and I always do a random staggered. Less waste and can set up your cuts how you want
I had the same issue with wood effect plank tiles (30x120cm) which were bowed in the middle... it's unfortunate as the tile shop never tell you this...it was pointed out to me by my tiler but he did a great job never the less.
that type of plank tile is commonly warped. it requiers wedge spacers that slide under two tiles and the wedge on top holds the tile level untill the thin set mortor dries... then you break away the spacer and grout the floor...
Keeping floor flat doesn’t require that time consuming process. Probably good for a DIY!
The critique videos are my favorite type of videos. I have learned so much from seeing others mistakes!!!
Plank tile will have some small lipage no matter what you.
ive been a flooring guy since aug of 96..i surely wish I had the opportunity to watch vids back then... almost everything had to be learned by trial and error or a fellow installer giving helpful tips..i appreciate your vids and am glad there are folks like yourself that share... srry I do not have any content online though I take pictures of every job I do before, during and after..we as installers need to hold manufactures to a high standard and refuse to install inferior products...I hate installing plank tile because of all variations in it from bows to bent corners and even warped from side to side..which all creates a nightmare for perfectionists such as yourself..also on a side note...I recommend dark grout always on a floor since its a dirt trap and always turns dark in time.. to me the tile should be the focus and not the grout,, the thinner the better in my eyes..that plank tile should have been grouted with a brown grout..your eyes should gravitate to the tile not the hideous light grout that shows every single imperfection..knowledge is power so thanks again and keep up the good work..
Most of the lippage is due to tiles being bent , you can clearly see that . And create high point to then have to put loads of thinset its absolute bad idea, level it first and then tile.
exactly! I'd never waste that kind of time or material building up a huge thinset valley. This guy is blowing smoke.
I have to deal with warped tiles almost every day. If you want to make money at it then 1/2 notch, back butter and leveling clips. You can prep for days but if the tiles are warped it won't do much good. JS
Is a 1/32 grout line to small to use? I recently had my concrete foundation repaired and leveled so I wouldn’t expect a lot of movement in the future. I don't understand wood look tile with large contrasting grout color.
You will never get away with that size on that type of tile, the best you can hope for is 1/8...it's not rectified
@StarrTile wow. I did not know that. All I've been watching is tiling videos and never heard the term rectified tile or not rectified. Thank you so much for sharing your info and expertise.
No excuses for the installer. But that tile is notorious for having manufacturing defects. I've had to send back pallets worth of product to the manufacturer because even if the floor is perfectly flat the tile was not. Highly reccomend to lay out several tiles from different boxes just to make sure the tiles are good.
You will get what you paid, cheap tile doesn't matter how good you are it will come out like crap
Bingo that is the answer installer was to afraid to tell the people the got second runs of worped tile
Abel, any way to check this at the warehouse? Bring a level? Id rather not bring warped tile home.
put two tiles face to face to check them
Hero
There are also design issues. Whats the point to look a tile like wood, but then lay them like perfect pattern? Then use white grout? Oh... Give me a break!
That grout is the worst part.... To me
Terrible design decisions
did you mention the floor prep?? I have the same tile laid but was concerned about the floor after they removed the old tile. there was old thinset left on the floor and they layed new tile over it. now I hear little "TINKS'' when you walk on it. some places it's solid but you can hear the tinks sounds randomly as you walk...Do I need to redo my floor??
The have company's who perform lippage removal with honing pads but im not sure if it would work on this kind of tile. Iv scene it done on polished porcelain and the results are amazing.
I too cut my tile around the flange using a circular template. Because I knew that for the next 10+ years, I would be sitting on that thing having nothing better to think about than....
..."The floor under you was badly cut. The floor under you was badly cut"
tscoffey1 ..😂😂😂😂😂
My tiler ALWAYS takes as much time as required to (a) PLAN the job (b) check all levels (c) plan the layout of the tiles (d) RE-PLAN the job when he's worked out all the potential problems; (e) take as much time as necessary to prep the floor, SL cement, primer, whatever's required; (f) mark out the tile layout, re-draw it as required; and (g) only then, start laying the tiles. Preparation is KING. He only uses a wet cutter on non-absorbent tiles, and wipes them mostly dry; Angle grinder on big absorbent tiles; and a good quality std cutter on the rest. I am NOT allowed to do the prep, cos he wants to make sure that it is done correctly. He has been a great guy to work with for many years, hardly ever any callbacks. PS: That tile layout round the fireplace is just HORRIBLE!
I am a tile setter and there were many points you made about the tile job, and yes it was piss poor with lots of flaws and things not done right. the installer should have taken a little bit more time installing. However you mentioned the fireplace and how you would have raised the hearth instead of making it flush... that is purely a preference... either way would look good. The other thing you pointed out was imperfection in tile along with crowning. most tile says on the box a recommended spec for this issue. your floor could be completely flat but the tile is not. make a little bit bigger grout joint for this issue. Also I have run in to tile so crowned that even a third stagger would have sucked, so I spoke to the home owner and we decided to do a little under a 1/4 stagger and the job came out just fine. Knowledge is key.
Didn't they have leveling systems back then. I'm about to tile my whole house with this same size tile. Thank you for posting this. I'll be using a tile leveling system.
What about the lightning bolt tile offset? Shouldn’t these tiles appear more randomly spaced?
Wallace Grommet .. yes it should be either very random or at the very least 1/3 offset which it was not
Wallace Grommet that was the first thing I noticed too.It looks like hell.It looks like steps.
I also think the pattern should be rotated 90 degrees and the grout should be a color closer to the tile color.
Stepping any wood look product is a sin
Yup that was the worst part
Ive bought tiles similar to these before and they had to many defects in them,some of the edges were thicker on one corner than the other.
Very interesting video you have here. We just had our home built by a big name builder here using similar tiles and I had them come out to fix a few tiles when we moved in. I believe some of the tiles were low and they were really noticeable. Well, now our one year warranty is almost up and more I look at our floor, the more messed up it seems to be. I have come to the conclusion that it was rushed and nothing was leveled. Every tile placed by hand so some are either high or low. Not to mention we have 1/4" spacing between the tiles so that sort of allows the installer to not be as careful as if it was a thinner gap. Ours is not as bad as this, but it's not a professional tile job in my opinion.
hi, i have just screeded my bathroom floor for the first time... my float work leaves a lot to be desired! its level edge to edge, but there are some dips, and subtle lips in the surface. should i run some self leveller over it? its a small room, 2.34x1.64. re, tiling, this will also be my first go at it, i plan on using the guides that keep your tiles flush.
Self leveler for a badly floated floor, yes...not a whole lot though.
Definitely a No-No for a shower floor
@@StarrTile yup. all good thanks matey, its a enclosed shower so i will mask off the leveller up to the sides
I hate setting that cheap made tile, it chips so easy and warped only way to pass your bucket test to set this tile wet in mud the old school way, and never forget it's so damn easy to go behind someone else work and reticule them.
Some tiles you just use for cuts and simply replaced directly. Tiles I hated were tiles that varied in size but could still make them work!
I would call it a decent job not a failure. Now the uneven tiles, I see that on many, many commercial places. Some areas I agree may be horrible but not a failure. 6.5 out of 10
Feel so bad for the customer I’d be so disappointed ☹️.
The guy just rushed it with no care unprofessional.
Thanks for highlighting all these errors so we can learn from his mistakes, hope he see’s it , he should not be tiling . Sue him .
Customer probably went with cheapest bid and cheapest materials. No leveling system, person got what they paid for lmao
Help -- I have a plywood sub-floor uses rs quick level on top. But forgot to use the wire mesh. Can I put hardy backer board on top of it or? Can I put another layer of plywood on top of that? Whats the best thing todo to avoid cracking of the tile? HELP!!
Level quick does not require any wire under it , but if you are freaked out you can screed out some thinset and put thin layer backer board on top of it
StarrTile thank you for responding. I’m going to push forward. Following the tile not the floor of course 👍🏽
Always easy to pick fault in peoples work.
This guy did a horrible job. There is no reason the guy couldnt have taken a little pride in his work. The guy clearly did not know what he was doing. If it were simply the fault of the material. At some point if the material is causing issues you stop work and discuss it with the homeowner that is paying you thousands upon thousands of dollars to show up on time every day and do a good job.
It is just cheap tile probably Chinese also tile settler was probably a beginner. Floor should had been prep prior to installation and that’s where the problem lays some times home owner just don’t want to pay extra to have the floor prep
Exactly, no leveler.
CLAUDIO DELPILAR
Give 'em what they pay for..tile job in this vide doesn't look that bad..sloppy yes but that tile is junk..I would acid wash it and clean it off , add shoe mold and be done with it..
I've never seen a tile setter shoot a laser and start on a high spot..I do agree with skimming and back buttering..you use twice the amount of mud but you have more room to adjust lipage
I can bet it’s China tile from the tile shop. It’s out of square racked and wrapped.
if it needs to be leveled to get the job done right then anyone who says they can do it without having to level the floor is the one in the wrong. they are doing it just to get the money and dont care that it will be subpar. if it needs to be leveled then every contractor should say "it has to be leveled, it will cost...., if its not levels there will be defects everywhere and i'm not going to spend countless hours trying to work around a half assed job on the foundation" the problem is any contractor that goes "yeah, i can do it without leveling it" and then doing a completely garbage job like this.
there is literally no point doin a bad job, wasting product, adhesives, only for someone to have to waste even more time ripping all that out and doing it right.
Hello sir do you have to grind the tile flat so the new floor lays flat thanks for your time good video
starlin hembree .. you can't really grind on that tile, it will break, there's really no way to rectify it except to take up the surrounding tile and then it's like a cat chasing its tail because where do you stop.. you should have corrected any imperfections to begin with, that's why I mentioned the homeowner is going to have fake wood just covering the whole thing
That's why I always recommend Raimondi TLS & just a little extra thin set when you need it.
These tiles are well know for inperfections. They always give tilers a hell of a time. I won't recommended them at all. They sometimes have a bow in the middle and the ends sometimes dip.
He never blames the cheap long tiles or concrete work
Romel, your absolutely right! I did my small bathroom with 12 x 24 tiles and they have a bow from the factory. If you put a straight edge on the tiles, you will notice they are not straight. I never had a problem with square tiles.
Good information, I recommend using self leveling so you don’t use so much thin set mortar
sure, so long as the client is aware of the price of self leveling that large of a surface!
Self leveling I think isn't as stable, as there inherently creates void in the tile mortar..
I agree with self levelling. Flood the floor, let it dry, then tile it. Literally no new or old concrete job is really close to acceptable for timber tiles. If you use twice as much glue packing each tile you still need to charge the client. It would end up around the same in material but a hell of a lot more money in labour in the end.
didn't think you could use it on Plywood/osb, thought it was for concrete only.
Yes, you can use it too!!
I had similar issues with my floor and thought all was lost until I used a high gloss sealer...between that and some area rugs your floor will be easier on the eyes. Nothing will make up for the bad cuts but the high gloss has a way of diverting your eyes away from all of the imperfections. I suggest try a little corner with the high gloss sealer to see if it helps otherwise you might as well head straight for the bank.
Wow thanks for the knowledge doctor
I've dealt with plank tile before. Sometimes you have to send tiles back because of manufacturers defects. Didn't matter where it came from.
Don’t tile a floor that isn’t flat. You as a tiler should flatten your background surface first either with latex or screed.
Don’t ever back butter your tiles with blobs. If you have any air gaps under your tiles they will crack very easily.
Love your video! Whats the name of the song in the introduction?
You can easily find the high point or low point using a compulevel. Or even a laser level by taking multiple readings in every room then working out the reduced levels.
I always prep my floors first with straight edges and patch, way easier to install when you make your floor flat...i will say tho, their pumping out those wood look ceramic and porcelain tiles so cheaply alot of them are just shit. You can put them face to face and spin them like a top.
Lose the music while you’re talking all I hear is screeching.
I’m 2 years in setting tile. I felt like I did learn something sir ty. I’ve seen my trainer use cheap tile and very expensive tile, he accommodates to the quality of the tile. Keep up the high standards my fellow tile setters. Ps laminate flooring is taking off . Learn the easy to install, 1.00/sf, what seems to be the money saving preferred choice.
glad i watched. u have given me some tips i never thot of
More of material defect than installer skills. You are ridiculous picking this floor apart, and then you're going to put a floor on top? Insane
You should put your contact info here so that we can all avoid your services! Did you even watch the video?
Isn't part of installer skills to do the right thing? If the material is bad he shouldn't have layed it.
You've got a point, you can't lay floating wood over uneven surfaces.
did u show your follow up work?
I wasn't hired to do the job, it was a consultation. Click on the link in description box to see a job just like this I did a few years ago.
On concrete floors i normally get an 8ft 2×4 thats straight and lay it across the floor n several spots find the dips, mark them, and then mix thin-set up a little runny and use the 2×4 to screet the dips. Try to get it as flat as i can and then use a 1/2 in trowel and back butter even if its 12×12 tiles. And always make sure i stand my trowel up straight so i get as much mortar as possible. Also u dont necessarily need a level floor just a even floor (no bumps or dips) and u can use floor leveler to fill in your dips but its kinda expensive.
On a floor like this, with this type of tile, you're in for some major work to make a nice job of it. Most important step is surface prep. Use a builder's laser to find high/low spots, use a diamond cup wheel to remove high spots first, then fill any low spots with a good self leveler and primer. Most plank tiles will be bowed so it is still a good idea to use tile leveling clips. Lastly I would recommend a minimum trowel size of 3/8"×1/4" , and always back butter your tile. 15 years of experience, and I still want to pull my hair out sometimes.
Consumers should keep in mind that there is cheap tile that can not be laid 💯 perfectly seems to be more common in the wood look tile overall good info
Do you recommend a leveling system/product for large tiles?
Only if your gonna pay for that... it’s all an extra that yes it’s recommended to leave a nice finished products . You gotta pay for the material and labor that all adds up and most people just want the job done as cheap as possible
perfect level master from polmaster. I use it on all tile jobs now...watch the videos on youtube( I discovered it watching mike holmes show)
I like the QEP lash clips. Home Depot stocks them and they work well. If you use a half inch notch trowel and skim coat the back of the tile the leveling system does its job very nice!
not4profit agreed, however i noticed the curved version for large format tiles would break so easy vs the flat style. Maybe it was a bad run on that batch but I bought so many and they consistently were weaker than there sibling.
Leveling systems are required on all large format tiles. The manufacturing process is such that the large format tiles are not flat and true. (Almost cupped actually)
That's why the offsets shown on the back of the tile box is so important.
Ie: 15-30% staggering maximum / minimum.
My sub just did something similar to me. I told him to follow the box directions for overlaps. He did not.
I bought leveling system, and he used it while I was on site. Stopped after I left.
When I returned, he was laying the last tile in a large bathroom. His comment was "See, that leveling stuff is for amateurs!"
I wasn't happy to say the least.
Ended up removing just under 25% of the tiles to solve the lippage.
It can be done, but is time consuming.
Plus, it could have been avoided altogether by just installing as I asked.
How can you run with the buildup idea when you have to follow thresholds and such?
At around 6:45.
I would removed the baseboard and trim, tiled right to the wall, put trim pieces back on top of the tile, and maybe some caulking to finish.
But I'm not a professional, so what do I know?
the tiler prob had help ,lesser skilled and rushing to get it done ,the prob with these plank tiles is the stagger ,its impossible at times to avoid lippage with a bow in the tile and uneven floor ,you say high point but a floor could have several high point s ,these tiles are really difficult to get perfect ,it is sloppy looking job in places but unless floor is absolutely perfect and tile s are really good quality lippage is inevitable
Clear high gloss epoxy resin whole floor ...would fix lippage and save her a fortune..
paul cahoon you will also have to re epoxy the whole floor again when it goes off and starts to yellow. Might be cheaper to start off with but would be a false economy eventually due to epoxy being expensive
@@jamesmcconnon2 lol no. They make uv resistant epoxy and you can add all sorts of patterns to in
@@randybobandy9828 you find a reliable uv resistant floor epoxy that doesn't have a MTBF of 1 to 2 years and i will pay you hard earned money.
Good info. I been in the flooring business for 36 yrs. With planks like these , i use clips now in addition to grinding and leveling the floor. They are pricey tho and most people dont want to pay. Also That stair like stagger is not how i would ever install this tile
We use remondy leveling system most of the time on concrete floors also wood we use self leveler to and we have ground down the concrete in spots
I'm a contractor and I do tile and many other things it's people like that that give us bad names I've been doing this for 20 some years and I personally could never leave a job in that kind of shape I just don't understand it I've cost myself money to stay and redo something because even though the customer thought it look good I knew it wasn't right I just can't leave a job that I don't feel I did a hundred percent my best and it is done to the best of my ability but great video new to the channel I subscribed to can't wait to see more!
Bravo, yea some people don't care, others want to feel good about their work and take pride from it. They can go there years later and say look I did that work myself and it's perfect.
Lose money before integrity
I did a wood tile floor last month and the day I came to grout I heard this noise from in the house 😓
When I walked in the home owner & friend we're sliding my buckets across the floor. He said. Look! Your floor is so flat the bucket doesn't catch no matter which way you slide it 😄 Never had that before
Wasn't the tile it was a good concrete job Bert
Show off! Lol
JK, good job.
I wish we would have seen this first.This is exactly what happened to our floors the lifting and smudging is worst than this throughout. I'm am viewing videos to determine if it's because of lifting and expansion. From this video I believe it may be the build out. The base boards weren't removed so maybe a combination. Thanks for the video.
Looks like a difficult area to tile.. If I did this job with no experience at all, I would be ok with this. Thanks for the video, I'm learning this stuff.
Not much wrong with job. It could easily be tidied up with replacing a couple of tiles and cleaning around the edges. This just seemed nit picky to be honest!
Where is the failure? Yes it's a crappy job but failure?
They will start cracking soon along with chipping edges. Failure is already happening once its installed wrong. Why would someone want to argue a half assed job??? This video helps weed out money makers from REAL professionals that take pride in every aspect of YOUR home!!! REMEMBER, THIS could be YOUR house!!!
Screeding
Failure to do a damn tits jobs!!
yes failure. that job is no less then 6-8 grand minimum and imagine that is yur house.
@@eddladio8096 don't do the job then. 100% on the contractor. You take a half assed financed job, you take liability for the finished product. Or else get a signed contract not accepting liability.
Sometimes people give the job to the guy who bids the lowest. Then they are shocked that they got what they paid for. Dont know thats the case here, but if a guys doing work like this its nothing new to him or his crew. Ya didnt check him out, get a reference or two, see some of his work? Probably not and just went with the cheapest guy.
I dont know anything about doing tile only wood flooring but wouldnt it be easier and cheaper to lay down some kinda clear coat over the tile instead of putting wood flooring over it?
mine did, also. what made it worse was that there was only 105 SF-- the grout lines varied from 1/8" to 1/3 to 1/4" sometimes even on adjacent lines.
I can feel the direction this "installer" is going with this video. Being an installer of 15 years myself I would never step on any other Installers toes like this. There are countless variables that can play into this particular job. I cant say that this tile job was overly well done but I will also say that that tile looks incredibly cheap do to is wavey overall appearance. Another issue that may have happened here is the customer may have been warned and aware of why there maybe imperfection but do to financial reasons the installer was told to over look them. I have had to many cheap customers play a game similar to this to avoid or lessen a final bill. So to anyone watching this installer or consumer dont encourage this kinda of back stabbing behavior people like this will talk you of the ledge just to make themselves feel better or make themselves money.
its impossible to lay bowed tiles without some lippage even using clips best you can do is even it out .these tile look like they dive just at the last inch or so. . not a lot you can do with that. probably very cheap tile
Why would you want 800 sqft of tile. Very lengthy install plus the nightmare 1 getting broken. Yikes.
I never go by the floor, always the tile. I also use a self leveling system so I get no lipage at all. Those cuts are horrendous. I use the puck test for lipage. I do also grind down high cement, or use the self leveling system you pour.
I am a tile setter and have learned a lot from you.!!! I support what
what you are doing. I know this home owner spent quite a large amount for this job. Simply because white thinset was used
and is so much more money per bag!! I like how you explained the rule of thumb In the industry that speaks to using white thinset when using a very light colored grout. The reason for this is a term called (which he folks mentioned,) bleed through. When the edge of a tile isn't cleaned properly before grout is applied, the dark thinset stands out. You could also enhance this unwanted effect by grouting too soon!
Happy tiling everybody:)
What two dollars more a bag ?? Mapei polymer modified only way to go. Atleast best I have used. He makes good points . Those long tiles mys well plan on a day of dumping bucket after bucket of self leveling mapei . Use a good primer even if it doesn't call for it .
One major problem I run into is the huge cost a customer has to pay for proper floor prep.
ephram brown everyone wants perfection. No one will pay for it
then dont do the job unless the floor is prepped
How much per sq ft did the client pay? For all we know they went super cheap on the labor........ Most people don't want to pay what it costs to lay a tile floor properly.
Pickle MeTimbers exactly this is the real point men. We do the job but everything depends how much you pay everything depends. We cannot do peefect job for less money men if you worki g in thos for yeara you know the money talk..
True man ..tile is taxing time was and physically ...id rather do three small laminate jobs in week than one restroom with wall tile..
Michael, so why do you agree to do the job for not enough money to do it right? do you really get jobs where a persons says to you, "i want to pay for $50 to tile my floor"? Surely they say they need their floor tiling, you take a look at it, then give them a price, then they say yes or no. So why would you agree to do the job for too little money to do it right?
Use a quarter for the lippett's works great. If the quarter slides over the tile then it's OK.Also if you're a good installer you would have a concrete grinder to grind all the high spots and fill in the low spots. Makes the jobs much easier to do.
So glad I found this channel
yeah, lets have perfection in a dump
Steve Streett Exactly. 800 square foot of tile done in what's most likely a 1300 square foot house. She probably picked the cheapest contractor she could and then bitched the entire time he worked. People don't get that you get what you pay for
then why did the contractor quote her a price too low to do the job properly?
Everyone deserves the job that they lay good money out for. So you consider this a dump, and they should get a dumpy job. Don't lay tile for me please.
I’m a journeyman plumber by trade, this is what it would look like if I installed it...
Journey man sheet metal worker and I have tiled like that. To me it's pass case of beer in
One of the biggest issues with the large format plank tile Is that it's warped. I totally agree about the slab being flat and level, but I have seen it too many times as to where the tile itself is warped and no matter what you do to the slab it is not gonna correct the installation. Take several of the large format plank tile and laid them back-to-back and see what you have before the installation
I’m a GC in southern CA and over the years have gotten into the habit Of performing all our tile and stone work in house . Why? Quality control..
Grind. The. Floor.
Period.
Get your ass on your knees with a 6 foot straight edge and crawl around and find your high spots .. mark em with a crayon and grind em out.
When your done .. crawl it again and mark your lows and skim em . I like Henry’s featheredge with acrylic additive. Then give the whole floor a scrape and a wet mop..
Keep your trowel notch big and still back butter with an LFT fullset..
Most importantly… Do not let your clients get sucked in by the cheap Chinese made plank tile. I’ve had that shit come out of the box with a 16th inch plus crown. If you’re laying a running bond pattern I don’t care if you’re the best tile man in the world you’re not gonna get rid of the lips..
Lmao at the end of the video I can't wait to see all the complaints she has about the floating floor separating and buckling over those tiles that have such an apparent horrible lippage
You know I just finished installing large tiles (48"x24") on the walls for three large bathrooms. I had to remove a tile and noticed that the coverage was perfect but the adhesive came clean of the tile with nothing stuck on any part of the tile. Obviously I had to put some force with a chisel to remove the tile but once it lost the grip the whole tile just came of in large chunks. My first impression was that this is not good. After doing ALL THE TILES I realise something was wrong. This is very depressing to say the least. While doing some research I figured out the problem. The guy I was working with was responsible for backbuttering the tiles before he brought them over to me for setting. He would clean the back side of the tile with a wet sponge and apply the backbuttering adhesive over a wet surface. This would create a barrier between the tile and the adhesive. It's the first time I do tiling, it's for my house. I had seen almost all good tiling videos on youtube (all of yours obviously) and read so much material to make sure I know what I'm doing before I start. I have not come across one video that talks about this serious and hazardous mistake that someone can fall victim to. Please Bob, make a video on this and make people aware that the surface of the tile must be FULLY DRY when backbuttering!
I've had the same problem installing cut tile fresh off the wet saw with the tile being covered in water. I'm no expert, and someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I've found that if you flat trowel the back of the tile with thinset before you backbutter with the notched side the thinset it will provide proper adhesion.
You can do a quick test to demonstrate this. The next time you mix some adhesive, while it's still fresh, just stick a portion of your dry finger in the adhesive and pull it back out. You'll have a large amount of adhesive on your finger. Now wet your finger and do it again. Notice how little adhesive is on your finger. The water repels the adhesive from your finger.
Does not repels adhesive but the adhesive is going to adhere slowly because the wet surface.
When the surface is dry the water in the thinset will be absorbed from the tile "burning the thinset" and causing a failure.
I actually make sure that my surface is nice and saturated before applying thinset on it.
@crazy, if you mean saturate the substrate then that is fine as long as it is of the kind that absorbs water such as a cementitious surface. But if you mean sature a porcelain tile then apply adhesive to it while wet, the you are mistaken and would strongly recommend that you don’t do that. Porelain does not absorb water. The water forms a barrier layer over the porcelain that prevents the adhesive to adhere to the tile surface. The porcelain must be dry while backbuttering.
Another test, install two porcelain tiles. One while backbuttering on dry tile while the other backbutter on wet tile surface. Wait 48 hours the removeboth. You see the difference. One will come of clean and the other will break into pieces and have chunks of adhesive bonbded to the surface.
I love all his videos.
Really good Home improvement contractors, especially tile installers deserve ALL the money they charge for a job well done. I’m tiling my den and lucky for me the floor is perfectly level. With that being said, I can tell you it is very very hard work.
I get you... it’s a bad job ... and the Tile looks like $1.99 big box store crap Tile anyways. I tell everyone if you’re not willing to spend money on a true rectified Tile then find a Tile with a rolled lip edge.
I definitely wouldn't have paid someone to come back and redoit, I guess the customers got alot of money. It really doesn't look that bad, however I bet the homeowner didn't pay the final bill and so the contractor never came back to finish give the finishing touches. Most of the floor is decent minus some lippage, which those tiles and the dipped floor could've been done not the whole damn floor
That's not necessarily the case. I hired so call professionals because they sold me on a higher price because they were they best (not the case). You either look at someone's prior work or what I now do is hire a midlle road bid with someone I feel is honest and I can work with and micromanage his work every step of the way. On a recent mudset, I told the installer to add pea gravel under drain, he looked at me like I was crazy. Made sure preslope was done right and redgard was done. Prior owner paid alot for a leaking pan I had to redo. It pays to educate yourself, and then watch over your contractor. But what do I know, I have only redone about 20 houses.
danbiss87 yeah I’m from the Uk and do plumbing and heating, tiling and bathroom refurbs with my dad, about a year ago we went to look st this job of a disabled woman who has her whole bungalow tiled with tiles just like in the video, basically very few tiles had a small lip and 1 was a bit more proud than the others. They tiles alone could have been replaced, but Basically she wanted it all to be ripped up, and to counter charge the people who had laid it, who she already still owed £3000. And after we sent her the quote which she probably used to counter charge them, we never heard back from her. Probably just out there trying to get a job done for cheaper
That's crazy. What is wrong with people. She probably wouldn't have paid you also to redo the job. She's a scam artist.
Stephen Lynch yep that’s what we thought too
Stephen Lynch You micromanage your contractors and probably beat them up on the price. You sound like a horrible person to deal with.
My assumption is, this was a budget tile installer, and catered to customers that wanted a budget price. The customer got what she paid for. If she had hired a reputable competitive tile contractor, she likely would not be dealing with these issues now. But, there will be those ones out there that are looking for a steal, I mean deal. If she cannot afford to pay market rate price for a quality install, then she is purchasing a new floor prematurely.
Where are you guys located,? We need tile done from a bad job redone?
I subscribed ...I'm a 3rd generation tile setter/stone mason been doing it for 28 years and your one of the few people I've seen on youtube that actually knows what their talking about. Good job 👍
Ryan Compton my great uncle
Don’t worry 😉,, when you put furniture everywhere and a big nice shag carpet,, you’ll see nothing!!! I give it a 6/10
Roberto Crescenza maybe for a DIY. Not when you paid them
I used to paint empty apartments, tile guys would work too, they would say if u push compound or paint bucket and it slides without stopping then the tile job was done good
I feel your pain! I have a bad tile job as well fortunately it is only the bathroom.The cut-work is actually exceptional but the tiles are all popped up. and the shower floor is just plain ridiculous.
Do you have any idea what the acceptable lippage is on floor tile per The Tile Council of North America? It's 3/8 of an inch. I'm not saying this is a great tile job or even a good one but I'll bet this person went with the least expensive installer they could find instead of paying a professional a wage they deserve for the knowledge they covet.
A good installer is the exception not the rule. I set tile for twenty five years and I know from experience a concrete slab is rarely flat much less level. I don't think starting from the high point and having an inch of mortar at the low side makes any sense at all.
There are some great systems out there for achieving a flat installation and eliminating all lippage. Show them in your next video if you want to be of service to the masses. I think the fault can be found for this particular installation with the person who decided price wins out over experience and quality.
Rick Carpenter AGREE WITH YOU ON THIS ONE BRADDAH RICK. THEY PAY CHEAP, EXPECT CHEAP RIGHT???THAT MUCH LFT WITH THAT MUCH SQ FT I DEFINITELY THING A LEVELING SYSTEM SHOULDVE BEEN USED... VERY EASY TO FIND A HIGH SPOT AS WELL. JUST PUT YOUR LASER UP IN THE MIDDLE OF ROOM AND BUST OUT YOUR TAPE MEASURE🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽... ANOTHER THING IS I WOULD NEVER GO HIGHER EHERE IT MEETS THE OTHER TILE I WOULD TRY YO MATCH IT AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE BC TALK ABOUT A TRIPPING POINT AND A BUMP IN THE MIDDLE OF KNOW WHERE... IVE TOOK OUT ONE PIECE TRANSITION PUECES WHERE IT MEETS ANOTHER IN THE LIVING ROOM BY THE FRONT DOOR AND IT CANE OUT GREAT... SOME LIKED IT SOME DIDNT LOL... STILL ONE OF THE BEST THOU BRADDAH BOB... GREAT SYSTEMS OUT THERE TODAY THAT JOB COULDVE GOT FIXED IN A COUPLE DAYS ( CHIPPING GUN, FLOOR GRINDER, WAFFLE HEAD BIT) WHAT TYPE OF SYSTEM DO YOU USE RICK AND WHY MY FRIEND??? ALOHA🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Rick Carpenter 1/32” not 3/8”
you are saying the tile council thinks its ok to have an almost 1/2 inch lippage?
mustaine65686 thats what I was thinking when I saw his comment. Pretty sure the 3/8ths number isn't the lippage number, but the allowance when it comes to your floor being "true" over the whole span of the floor. If I'm remembering correctly, 3/8ths difference is exceptable over THE ENTIRE LENGTH of a room, with no more than 1/4 of an inch over any 4 foot span.... could be wrong, but i think thats the rule when considering whether or not "floor leveling" is needed anywhere....
Ctrbates
1/4in for 10ft and I think he's talking about the thickness of the tile . Well at least I hope he is
You say the same thing over n over. Over n over. Did I tell you how you say things over n over
c Only 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
How do u use a wet saw for a toilet cut? Please tell me.
I've been setting tile for over 20 years and this type of tile these long strips are at times hard to set correctly. Some brands the tile is warped.