A few extras I did. I used black elecrical tape for masking. It sticks well and no paint will flow under it. I put new tape on every 2nd or 3rd coat, to taper the top edge at the waterline. A 1/4" will do, an 1/8" if you're good. If it's a hot day, or you're a slow worker, I have used 2 paint trays, the bottom filled ice, and paint in the top. This slows the epoxy. Don't plan for left over paint, but I have put epoxy in the freezer overnight. Seal it well, food will pick up the smell. Something I just remembered. My barrier coat said to coat the hull with clear unfilled epoxy for the first coat. Raw epoxy will flow better than barrier coat, and seal small cracks or porous gelcoat. (After blister repair)
I bought a gallon of this primer about a month ago but it has been raining here in New Orleans until recent days. I have been turning the gallon can up side down and back up once every day. When I opened the can there was very little concentrate sludge in the bottom and it mixed up really easy with a stir stick. I guess you have to mix the hardener with the base and wait 20 to 30 minutes for induction before adding and mixing in a little thinner, and applying. Since it can set for 5 hours before jelling up after mixing, there is no hurry to apply it. I used about 10% xylene for thinning and rolled it on without problem.
Just coated my 32' sailboat with TotalProtect over the weekend. It's been a colder and wetter winter/spring in the Pac NW than usual so this was a challenge for bottom work. Temps were in the low 50's and I did about 8 coats in 2 days (will be followed by sanding). Probably not ideal in the speed or temperature of application, but better than trying to do it in the rain. Even though the temps were low, this product was passing the thumb print test in about 1.5 hours after application. I used a thin yellow foam roller instead of the thick roller they ship with the paint. I would definitely recommend using their paint thinner; in the final couple of coats I added ~6% of thinner. If no thinner, it rolls on with significant orange peel that can be reduced to more of an egg shell finish if thinned. If you want a smooth bottom, expect to do some sanding prior to bottom paint. This product is much easier to work with than straight up laminating resin + additive advocated by other brands, applies more like a paint. It seems like most of the solids are actually in the hardener and this is difficult to mix off the shelf, definitely talk a paint store into shaking your cans.
Can you help me? I sanded my fiberglass bottom boat like you did. Can I apply total protect, and next crypton Cooper antifouling bottom paint? And what I need more to get it on the water? Or just primer and this paint and it ready to go?
I'm restoring a 73' 13ft Boston Whaler. Just finished fairing the interior and will start applying TotalBoat Top Side Primer. I would like to paint the interior and the 'below waterline' with the same color. If I use the barrier coat primer on the topside and below the waterline, can I use the same paint on both the interior and the 'below waterline' areas? What would you suggest?
if you leave the boat in the water fro any time at all you will want an ANTIFOULING bottom paint, not at all the same as a a topside paint which can be used inside and out.
maybe a simple question, but how do you work around the jack stands? do you move them each coat? I would think it would damage the primer if not completely cured? what about the stands underneath as well, they dont seem as mobile?
yes, you move them after you coat the rest of the bottom and it's dried and then you will need to prep and build coats where the stands were - to be equal application depth to the rest of the bottom.
I'd recommend using an LED inspection light to ensure there is no gloss anywhere when scuffing (cant see gloss in shad especially on white). I'd also recommend blowing off with compressed air and a horse hair brush followed by wiping down with foaming sprayway glass cleaner followed by a final tack cloth wipe down. I'm anal and that's how I paint anything I spend too much time on prep to have any potential error as chemicals in itself are fussy enough in regard to temperature, humidity, uv exposure, contamination.
I gave you a thumbs down because you made no mention of how you dealt with the jack stands. Unless your boat is magically suspended in the air, dealing with cradle pads is a critical part of the operation.
Thank you for your feedback. Our main focus on this video was about the the info and properties of our Barrier Coat paint, but we understand the value in showing/explaing the entire process including moving the stands once the hull is dry to prep and paint the bare spots! Thank you again!
![HOW TO SAND and BUFF GELCOAT -sunfish sailboat restoration- [Part 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hm_QNxdCSkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
A few extras I did. I used black elecrical tape for masking. It sticks well and no paint will flow under it. I put new tape on every 2nd or 3rd coat, to taper the top edge at the waterline. A 1/4" will do, an 1/8" if you're good. If it's a hot day, or you're a slow worker, I have used 2 paint trays, the bottom filled ice, and paint in the top. This slows the epoxy.
Don't plan for left over paint, but I have put epoxy in the freezer overnight. Seal it well, food will pick up the smell.
Something I just remembered. My barrier coat said to coat the hull with clear unfilled epoxy for the first coat. Raw epoxy will flow better than barrier coat, and seal small cracks or porous gelcoat. (After blister repair)
I bought a gallon of this primer about a month ago but it has been raining here in New Orleans until recent days. I have been turning the gallon can up side down and back up once every day. When I opened the can there was very little concentrate sludge in the bottom and it mixed up really easy with a stir stick. I guess you have to mix the hardener with the base and wait 20 to 30 minutes for induction before adding and mixing in a little thinner, and applying. Since it can set for 5 hours before jelling up after mixing, there is no hurry to apply it. I used about 10% xylene for thinning and rolled it on without problem.
The total protect was easy to use. Defiantly needs to be thinned. Be fully prepped before you start.
Just coated my 32' sailboat with TotalProtect over the weekend. It's been a colder and wetter winter/spring in the Pac NW than usual so this was a challenge for bottom work. Temps were in the low 50's and I did about 8 coats in 2 days (will be followed by sanding). Probably not ideal in the speed or temperature of application, but better than trying to do it in the rain. Even though the temps were low, this product was passing the thumb print test in about 1.5 hours after application. I used a thin yellow foam roller instead of the thick roller they ship with the paint. I would definitely recommend using their paint thinner; in the final couple of coats I added ~6% of thinner. If no thinner, it rolls on with significant orange peel that can be reduced to more of an egg shell finish if thinned. If you want a smooth bottom, expect to do some sanding prior to bottom paint. This product is much easier to work with than straight up laminating resin + additive advocated by other brands, applies more like a paint. It seems like most of the solids are actually in the hardener and this is difficult to mix off the shelf, definitely talk a paint store into shaking your cans.
discountral
How many gallons? Full keel or fin? i know it's an old post, but about to do this job on a 32' modified full keel and looking for quantity. Thanks!
Did one gallon get you through all 5 coats? thx
Any worries about tape not coming off with the process? Thanks nice job on video
The tape should come off without issue!
Can you help me? I sanded my fiberglass bottom boat like you did.
Can I apply total protect, and next crypton Cooper antifouling bottom paint? And what I need more to get it on the water? Or just primer and this paint and it ready to go?
How is this product on aluminum pontoon boat? With pitting below the waterlin on boat pontoons.
excellent and we have an Aluminum version, too!
Do you have to sand after applying the primer, before the gelcoat?
It would need to be scuffed or lightly sanded before applying any paint or gelcoat.
I'm restoring a 73' 13ft Boston Whaler. Just finished fairing the interior and will start applying TotalBoat Top Side Primer. I would like to paint the interior and the 'below waterline' with the same color. If I use the barrier coat primer on the topside and below the waterline, can I use the same paint on both the interior and the 'below waterline' areas? What would you suggest?
if you leave the boat in the water fro any time at all you will want an ANTIFOULING bottom paint, not at all the same as a a topside paint which can be used inside and out.
I'd like to see him do all 5 coats
maybe a simple question, but how do you work around the jack stands? do you move them each coat? I would think it would damage the primer if not completely cured? what about the stands underneath as well, they dont seem as mobile?
yes, you move them after you coat the rest of the bottom and it's dried and then you will need to prep and build coats where the stands were - to be equal application depth to the rest of the bottom.
I'd recommend using an LED inspection light to ensure there is no gloss anywhere when scuffing (cant see gloss in shad especially on white). I'd also recommend blowing off with compressed air and a horse hair brush followed by wiping down with foaming sprayway glass cleaner followed by a final tack cloth wipe down. I'm anal and that's how I paint anything I spend too much time on prep to have any potential error as chemicals in itself are fussy enough in regard to temperature, humidity, uv exposure, contamination.
teveel tex wat iedereen allang weet
9:17 i see what you did there. subtle
I gave you a thumbs down because you made no mention of how you dealt with the jack stands. Unless your boat is magically suspended in the air, dealing with cradle pads is a critical part of the operation.
Thank you for your feedback. Our main focus on this video was about the the info and properties of our Barrier Coat paint, but we understand the value in showing/explaing the entire process including moving the stands once the hull is dry to prep and paint the bare spots! Thank you again!
H
uuumm