Channels like this one are what makes You Tube the success it is. When someone has a product, explained both visually and verbally, how to accomplish the intended result of said product, their success is well deserved! My hat is off to you and your associates. With basic ability and tools, this build is within reach of most anyone wanting it. Your product seems to be top shelf, your videos superb, custom tools and tricks, all well above the level of anything I have seen elsewhere. BRAVO GENTLEMEN, BRAVO!!
not sure if anyone cares but if you are bored like me during the covid times you can stream all of the new movies on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my girlfriend for the last months :)
The reason I ask I build a 135 inch delkron 4 cam years ago 4.255 bore×4.750 Stroke 12.1Cr flat top piston ,and I could not get it to run timing pipes would not Rev. It was 0.020 squish that was the problem! Big bore flat top it put the flame out. I build the first 131 cubic. Inch back in 1995 before merch I'm a machist by trade. Also make my own cylinder out of 80-55 -06 ductile so I have been around the block with Harleys , you gentlemen do very nice work
That was awesome you guys are the only ones on RUclips that do in-depth motor work so people can see when I start to tear apart my 88 I will have you guys do the machine work
It’s refreshing seeing you use proper torque wrench manipulation. I see to many people (professional included) grab the damn things like a hammer or like they’re using a breaker bar.
Love your videos im looking into bumping my 883 up and your product and videos are top notch in my book so you got me sold im buying one of your kits and also thought it was great you didnt edit out your mistake when you first tryed to squish , that to me shows how hounest you guys are and thats why im buying your kit i feel i can trust your product as well as know you stand by it . Keep on keeping on
Wow these guys are cool no fake bullshit editing! Kept rolling even when he made a mistake! That's how you know they are real! If you dont make mistakes you ain't wrenching that much! I've got to look into these kits for my bike! Looks very fun to do an wld be a great reward in the end!
I rely heavily on your content. Dan! You're an awesome guy! You have a life long customer and I will recommend everyone I meet to pound their competition with hammer.
Great information keep up the good work! I will be purchasing one of y’all’s kits as soon as I acquire a sporty. At the moment I’m doing some pm on my ultra classic..... cam chain tensioners.
Checking squish is much easier than I thought after watching this video. I kept reading about squish but wasnt sure how it was done. I'd love to do the 1250 basic kit to my 07 sportster 883 low. Hope I can make this happen by next summer.
Nothing in this world is perfect. Even machines that require absolute perfection still have errors, glitches, gremlins and buggs. Leaving the mistake in the video is what keeps it entertaining, because it's real.
I am planning to build my 2006 883c with your 1275 kit I was wondering what a good cam choice would be and how much lift could my stock heads handle with your kit
I too am a student of doing shit twice around. I didn’t notice. Did you use a MLS base gasket on the jugs? And your right. Using cometic gaskets and OEM torque values will cause a leak! Thanks for sharing! Larry
The 120+ package is really designed to run normally aspirated, i.e. we've set up the cam timing and E/I flow ratio and compression for a normally aspirated motor. To run boosted, you'd want different pistons that both reduce compression and incorporate some other features to improve durability under boost. You'd also want cams that have an appropriate level of overlap for the turbo's differential pressure ratio, later intake close timing, and either more exhaust duration or heads prepared with an E/I ratio more favorable to the exhaust. So you see, at that point it's really not the 120+ package anymore, and in fact without boost, that motor probably wouldn't make much more than about 100hp, if that. But anyway, although we don't offer either turbos or a turn key turbo package, we've put together turbo compatible packages for customers on several occasions, and we can certainly configure a package for you. Contact us using this form when you'd like to proceed: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
Hi Carl, read this for our guide to getting more power out of your 1200: www.hammerperf.com/tthoppingup1200.shtml#04+ . We show what can be accomplished with a cam swap alone, a 1275 kit alone, a cam swap and 1275 kit in combination, and finally head work, cams, and 1275 kit in combination. Shoot us a note using this form if you have any questions: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#statusform
If I'm just pulling front cylinder head off to get a broken exhaust stud out but not changing anything, do I still need to check the squish band when I put it back on?
Did you ever get an answer to this question? I needed to pull one to change a push rod o-ring and was wondering the same. I did it and not my engine sounds a little noisy
Does the oil in the bolts affects a lot the torque? If we use the torque wrench in a bolt without oil, how many N.m there would be comparing with the one with oil? If there are.. thank you for your kind reply Manuel
Our kits come with .030 head gaskets and more than 90% of the time, they come out within the desirable .030 to .040 squish clearance range with our kits. However, in the rare case that's too tight, we also have .040 head gaskets readily available. Although we've never had a customer need to do it, a person could also stack base gaskets if he needed to.
The only case where it doesn't apply is with hemispherical chambers. Follow this link, we explain it in more detail: www.hammerperf.com/ttcheckingsquish.shtml#typesofsquish
The kit installation instructions mention this here, suggesting that you do it: www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#More . But it's not a mandatory step, it's more of a recommendation. I can tell you that most guys don't check it and problems are almost unheard of. But we still like to see customers do it. It's quick and easy to do.
I should say too that if you read the "Common Mistakes" section, that'll give you a heads up on the most common things that guys do wrong: www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#Mistakes . However, there are other things too, so read the instructions very thoroughly and carefully and by all means if you have any questions don't hesitate to contact us. We'd much rather answer a question than to deal with a problem later. We answer tech support requests 7 days a week because we know lots of guys work on their bikes over the weekend. Use this form to reach us, it's the most reliable way: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
The most common solution is to juggle gasket thicknesses to get into that range, or even remove the base gasket in extreme cases. Read this article, we explain it: www.hammerperf.com/ttcheckingsquish.shtml#adjustsquish
It's generally done on new builds, but there's nothing stopping you from doing it on any motor, so long as you clean the carbon off the pistons and heads.
Thx for responding so fast! I have to do head gaskets and I'm collecting research and I have learned a lot from watching you. Lots of good info!! Thx!!!
The reason I'm asking I build a 135 inch 4 cam delkron. 4.250 bore× 4.750. Stroke 12.1cr flat top years ago. I tried timing, jetting. Pipes the thing would not run !but had 0.020 squish. That was the problem, I been build big motor since1995 , build the first 131 cubic inch before merch. My blue prints merch used in still a machist 29 years
Thank you for sharing it all with us, and keeping it real 'most would edit out some bits' lol What happens if under spec, do you add extra base gaskets. Whos jimmy lol 6:27 lamo
The solder is pliable, and squeezes down to the clearance between the piston and the head. The point of the solder is to make the clearance measurement indirectly, since doing it directly is impossible. Similar to "Plastigage" that's commonly used for crank clearance measurements in automotive applications. Once you've removed it to make the measurement, you leave it off.
Instead of Grease why don't you use modeling clay something like Play-Dohalso modeling clay usually works just the well with the clearance if you got clearance for your valves
![Eminem - Tobey (feat. Big Sean & Babytron) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9xn0OHEZZ8Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Channels like this one are what makes You Tube the success it is. When someone has a product, explained both visually and verbally, how to accomplish the intended result of said product, their success is well deserved! My hat is off to you and your associates. With basic ability and tools, this build is within reach of most anyone wanting it. Your product seems to be top shelf, your videos superb, custom tools and tricks, all well above the level of anything I have seen elsewhere. BRAVO GENTLEMEN, BRAVO!!
not sure if anyone cares but if you are bored like me during the covid times you can stream all of the new movies on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my girlfriend for the last months :)
@Raul Jordan definitely, I have been using Instaflixxer for years myself :D
Man its cool you didn't edit out the mistake shows real integrity. That sold me I want the1275 kit for my 48.
The reason I ask I build a 135 inch delkron 4 cam years ago 4.255 bore×4.750 Stroke 12.1Cr flat top piston ,and I could not get it to run timing pipes would not Rev. It was 0.020 squish that was the problem! Big bore flat top it put the flame out. I build the first 131 cubic. Inch back in 1995 before merch I'm a machist by trade. Also make my own cylinder out of 80-55 -06 ductile so I have been around the block with Harleys , you gentlemen do very nice work
I declare myself absolutely a fan of this mechanic. Thank you for sharing with such care!
Excellent and informative as usual! Great job Dan.
That was awesome you guys are the only ones on RUclips that do in-depth motor work so people can see when I start to tear apart my 88 I will have you guys do the machine work
It’s refreshing seeing you use proper torque wrench manipulation. I see to many people (professional included) grab the damn things like a hammer or like they’re using a breaker bar.
Love your videos im looking into bumping my 883 up and your product and videos are top notch in my book so you got me sold im buying one of your kits and also thought it was great you didnt edit out your mistake when you first tryed to squish , that to me shows how hounest you guys are and thats why im buying your kit i feel i can trust your product as well as know you stand by it . Keep on keeping on
Wow these guys are cool no fake bullshit editing! Kept rolling even when he made a mistake! That's how you know they are real! If you dont make mistakes you ain't wrenching that much! I've got to look into these kits for my bike! Looks very fun to do an wld be a great reward in the end!
Absolutely love the content. Just bought a 1250 package. Keep up the good work
This was excellent. Thank you for taking the time.
I rely heavily on your content. Dan! You're an awesome guy! You have a life long customer and I will recommend everyone I meet to pound their competition with hammer.
nice job sir--thank you---I appreciate your honesty
Reminds me of using Plasti-Gauge on crank shaft bearings V-8 engines
My education continues..Thanks Dan.
Excellent presentation! Quite helpful.
Great information keep up the good work! I will be purchasing one of y’all’s kits as soon as I acquire a sporty. At the moment I’m doing some pm on my ultra classic..... cam chain tensioners.
Thanks for showing the right way to do the squish band😁🏍🏁👍
Nice work...👍
Squish this!!!
No really great video 👍 and very informative, you guys are a great help to us gear heads.
Thank you. 🍺🍺🍺👍🥓🥓🥓
Checking squish is much easier than I thought after watching this video. I kept reading about squish but wasnt sure how it was done. I'd love to do the 1250 basic kit to my 07 sportster 883 low. Hope I can make this happen by next summer.
I LOVE HOW HONEST YOU GUYS ARE AND CAN LAUGH AT YOURSELVES, NO PRIMA DONNAS LIKE SOME GUYS IN OUR BUSINESS THINK THEY ARE.
good to see even the pro make mistakes great to watch a pro working
Nothing in this world is perfect. Even machines that require absolute perfection still have errors, glitches, gremlins and buggs. Leaving the mistake in the video is what keeps it entertaining, because it's real.
i just wanna go n rip apart my 95 sportster now lolol ......kiddin.... great video guys love step by step
Thanks again Dan
haha nice video dan... we all make misakes.. i love watching your v ideos and learning alot from them :)
Good job buddy!!
Great video! Do you have any on twin cam piston ,cam’s,head work install ?
I am planning to build my 2006 883c with your 1275 kit I was wondering what a good cam choice would be and how much lift could my stock heads handle with your kit
Do you have to do this on both the angled squish band and flat squish band kits? Thanks!
Do you check it on a set of flat top pistons with oversize valve pockets?
I too am a student of doing shit twice around.
I didn’t notice. Did you use a MLS base gasket on the jugs?
And your right. Using cometic gaskets and OEM torque values will cause a leak!
Thanks for sharing!
Larry
We use .020 SLS base gaskets
Great Video. Get some playdoe to hold the soldier...
Thinking about getting a TurboCharger kit for my 16' iron with the 120HP kit from yall. Whats yalls advise or tips on that setup?
The 120+ package is really designed to run normally aspirated, i.e. we've set up the cam timing and E/I flow ratio and compression for a normally aspirated motor. To run boosted, you'd want different pistons that both reduce compression and incorporate some other features to improve durability under boost. You'd also want cams that have an appropriate level of overlap for the turbo's differential pressure ratio, later intake close timing, and either more exhaust duration or heads prepared with an E/I ratio more favorable to the exhaust. So you see, at that point it's really not the 120+ package anymore, and in fact without boost, that motor probably wouldn't make much more than about 100hp, if that.
But anyway, although we don't offer either turbos or a turn key turbo package, we've put together turbo compatible packages for customers on several occasions, and we can certainly configure a package for you. Contact us using this form when you'd like to proceed: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
After watching your videos I find myself wanting to upgrade my 2014 1200c
I love my sporty but, your videos inspire
Would you recommend?
Hi Carl, read this for our guide to getting more power out of your 1200: www.hammerperf.com/tthoppingup1200.shtml#04+ . We show what can be accomplished with a cam swap alone, a 1275 kit alone, a cam swap and 1275 kit in combination, and finally head work, cams, and 1275 kit in combination. Shoot us a note using this form if you have any questions: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#statusform
Should I do this check on both cylinders front and rear or only front?
yes, we recommend it.
If I'm just pulling front cylinder head off to get a broken exhaust stud out but not changing anything, do I still need to check the squish band when I put it back on?
Did you ever get an answer to this question? I needed to pull one to change a push rod o-ring and was wondering the same. I did it and not my engine sounds a little noisy
Does the oil in the bolts affects a lot the torque? If we use the torque wrench in a bolt without oil, how many N.m there would be comparing with the one with oil?
If there are..
thank you for your kind reply
Manuel
It can, by putting a drop of oil in the head bolts, and on the flats just insures you get an accurate torque reading.
Thank you 🍻
If squish band is to tight how available are thicker gaskets. ty
Our kits come with .030 head gaskets and more than 90% of the time, they come out within the desirable .030 to .040 squish clearance range with our kits. However, in the rare case that's too tight, we also have .040 head gaskets readily available. Although we've never had a customer need to do it, a person could also stack base gaskets if he needed to.
So if I don’t have domed pistons, this wouldn’t apply?
The only case where it doesn't apply is with hemispherical chambers. Follow this link, we explain it in more detail: www.hammerperf.com/ttcheckingsquish.shtml#typesofsquish
How do you correct it if the clearance in below 30? Use a gasket with a bigger gauge?
Yes, gasket thicknesses are the easiest and most common ways to adjust the squish clearance
So... how do you adjust the distance?
you can adjust thesquish through the head and base gasket thickness.
Do i also need to check squishband for basic 883 to 1275 upgrade with flat head pistons?
The kit installation instructions mention this here, suggesting that you do it: www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#More . But it's not a mandatory step, it's more of a recommendation. I can tell you that most guys don't check it and problems are almost unheard of. But we still like to see customers do it. It's quick and easy to do.
I should say too that if you read the "Common Mistakes" section, that'll give you a heads up on the most common things that guys do wrong: www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#Mistakes . However, there are other things too, so read the instructions very thoroughly and carefully and by all means if you have any questions don't hesitate to contact us. We'd much rather answer a question than to deal with a problem later. We answer tech support requests 7 days a week because we know lots of guys work on their bikes over the weekend. Use this form to reach us, it's the most reliable way: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Thanks, what if avg squishband is out of 30-40 range? What to do then?
The most common solution is to juggle gasket thicknesses to get into that range, or even remove the base gasket in extreme cases. Read this article, we explain it: www.hammerperf.com/ttcheckingsquish.shtml#adjustsquish
😎👍😎
Is this process for new builds or if you are replacing the head gaskets?
It's generally done on new builds, but there's nothing stopping you from doing it on any motor, so long as you clean the carbon off the pistons and heads.
Thx for responding so fast! I have to do head gaskets and I'm collecting research and I have learned a lot from watching you. Lots of good info!! Thx!!!
I got confused on the goat head part
Did you port and polish the heads? If not, why not?
yes, fully ported.
Your mom polished the heads
The reason I'm asking I build a 135 inch 4 cam delkron. 4.250 bore× 4.750. Stroke 12.1cr flat top years ago. I tried timing, jetting. Pipes the thing would not run !but had 0.020 squish. That was the problem, I been build big motor since1995 , build the first 131 cubic inch before merch. My blue prints merch used in still a machist 29 years
u need really stong fuel for that.
Have you ever ran 0.020 to 0.025 squish
only in a race bike application. And that's pushing it. lol
Thank you for sharing it all with us, and keeping it real 'most would edit out some bits' lol
What happens if under spec,
do you add extra base gaskets.
Whos jimmy lol 6:27 lamo
Are you supposed to take the Sauter back off? I don’t understand. What’s the point of the Sauter
The solder is pliable, and squeezes down to the clearance between the piston and the head. The point of the solder is to make the clearance measurement indirectly, since doing it directly is impossible. Similar to "Plastigage" that's commonly used for crank clearance measurements in automotive applications. Once you've removed it to make the measurement, you leave it off.
amazing job great knowledge you will have some email to contact I need your help
Instead of Grease why don't you use modeling clay something like Play-Dohalso modeling clay usually works just the well with the clearance if you got clearance for your valves
you surly can, what ever will work for you.
Newer do it again.