I have a 1970 K5 Blazer and I’m having the same issue. I just replaced the battery and alternator but did have the issue until I got those two new things. I don’t have the electrical skills you have but I found your video very helpful. You now have a follower just based on that one video! Thank you sir!!!
I want to add for people like me that’s starting to work on old cars , I have a 72 suburban after distributor work my battery wasn’t charging My alternator was cramping out , I change it and still the same , I realized the previous owner had installed an alternator with an inside voltage regulator, after looking at your video and try to find mine external voltage regulator and realized I didn’t have one and what I did wrong , for the amateurs like me check your alternators and make sure what you have before changing it !
Excellent layman break down, rebuilt many of alternators, it takes one mistake to knock out one positive diode, (jump starting mainly) but very rarely do you see a back feed, very interesting! Excellent viedow thanks.
I know this is an old video, but let me chime in real quick for the rest of you that may be having overcharging while running and overnight battery drain. Years ago I purchase a 69 C10 longbed with this issue. It turned out to be a badly chaffed plug at the alternator. The one that clips the white and blue wires to it. The plug was not insulating one of the wires causing the wire to make contact with the alternator housing. It turned out to be a $3 fix for a new plug.
My meter is showing a 16 amp parasitic draw with the engine off on a 2003 Chevy Avalanche which kills the battery stone dead overnight. I actually will get a good spark when disconnecting/reconnecting the negative cable to the battery each time. With that many amps can't I just do aa quick test by disconnecting the wires to the alternator??
You need to scan the airbag module for codes first before I can give any advice. Lot's of things can set off the airbag light. It could be something as simple as a bad seat belt latch.
sounds like either a bad diode in in the altenator or a bad regulator, but my guess is a diode - but many years ago I did have a stuck relay contact on a '70 elcamino, new regulator fixed it my case - as old as that regulator is I would replace it when you replace the alternator that way the whole charging system is new and ready to go.
Looks like you figured out your problem. Did the new alternator fix the problem? If you had a bad diode it could be leaking enough current through to energize the windings creating an electromagnet which is probably where your power draw came from. Like the video and subscribed. If ya have time, check my channel. I could use a few subscribers since RUclips changed their policies.
I have a 1970 K5 Blazer and I’m having the same issue. I just replaced the battery and alternator but did have the issue until I got those two new things. I don’t have the electrical skills you have but I found your video very helpful. You now have a follower just based on that one video! Thank you sir!!!
Thanks for watching and glad it help!
Awesome video. I love to watch people giving advises on how to fix stuff, especially for those classic cars
I want to add for people like me that’s starting to work on old cars , I have a 72 suburban after distributor work my battery wasn’t charging
My alternator was cramping out , I change it and still the same , I realized the previous owner had installed an alternator with an inside voltage regulator, after looking at your video and try to find mine external voltage regulator and realized I didn’t have one and what I did wrong , for the amateurs like me check your alternators and make sure what you have before changing it !
Nice work! I'm hunting a parasitic draw on 1970 C20 Classic...think it may be the alt. Your video helped immensely, thank you!
Thought I would show a fellow smaller channel some love. I love my 70 suburban. Great video. I love that color. Great video.
Thanks for making the video I have a suburban 72 having exactly the same issues
Your video give me great ideas
Thank you 🙏
Excellent layman break down, rebuilt many of alternators, it takes one mistake to knock out one positive diode, (jump starting mainly) but very rarely do you see a back feed, very interesting! Excellent viedow thanks.
Small channel support..Nice Car.. Liked, watched and pushed the magic red button.👍
Those old trucks are solid... My Dad had an old Chevy pick-up that was solid as a rock. Good troubleshooting! New sub 😉
Man I have always wanted a 70 Chevy Blazer. Your suburban is awesome!
We have your back! Best of
luck! 'I am a creator'! I found you by way of FrankValcharia.
I know this is an old video, but let me chime in real quick for the rest of you that may be having overcharging while running and overnight battery drain. Years ago I purchase a 69 C10 longbed with this issue. It turned out to be a badly chaffed plug at the alternator. The one that clips the white and blue wires to it. The plug was not insulating one of the wires causing the wire to make contact with the alternator housing. It turned out to be a $3 fix for a new plug.
My meter is showing a 16 amp parasitic draw with the engine off on a 2003 Chevy Avalanche which kills the battery stone dead overnight. I actually will get a good spark when disconnecting/reconnecting the negative cable to the battery each time. With that many amps can't I just do aa quick test by disconnecting the wires to the alternator??
Great video.I am still with you.
Good to know!
Looks like a nice Chevy suburban.
thanks for sharing, was really useful, in the past ive had to had alternators replaced
Keep up my friend! your videos are great!!
06 SilveradoHD 1500crew with air bag light that I would like to be able to diagnose, have any advice?
You need to scan the airbag module for codes first before I can give any advice. Lot's of things can set off the airbag light. It could be something as simple as a bad seat belt latch.
I saw you on reddit! I subbed!
great. Thanks
Great video man your videos are helpful I glad u found me I keep this channel around in case I need learn soming I subscribe
sounds like either a bad diode in in the altenator or a bad regulator, but my guess is a diode - but many years ago I did have a stuck relay contact on a '70 elcamino, new regulator fixed it my case - as old as that regulator is I would replace it when you replace the alternator that way the whole charging system is new and ready to go.
That's a classic.... I will be following along....
Thanks for watching. I like the review on the Arby's venison sandwich.
I Subscribed and like !
Nice video =)
Helping out your channel
Keep up the great videos! I added this to my YT playlist!
nice video
amazing video! good job
I am here to show support302
Good tips!
Its really a great video
Mine is a intermittent drain . Just got back from auto electricians and found no drain . 😠??????
good video
time to get all them old chilton manuals out of the box lol
Yeah I was using an old Haynes manual for the wiring diagram
at least with the old stuff you can work on it with a limited set of tools, oh and have room to work
I’m still with you👍
ok, I didn"t see you on my list. This is becoming a mess. LOL
I just found your message in my spam box.
Wicked Spray hm but I didn’t use the word “s”
Oh dear, help us! What is going on here!🤪🤪
It was your original message that I found in my spam box. Sorry for the confusion.
Very interesting!
Thanks for visiting my channel and I have subbed your channel
covered ya
nice channel !!!
Good video :))
Thank you! #220
good video.. helpong your channel out
Nice videos! Subbed #277 :-)
done thank youu
Subbed back thanks man!
good job...!done... 269
361 That is a nice old Suburban love that body style. Check out my channel if you would like. Thanks
Looks like you figured out your problem. Did the new alternator fix the problem? If you had a bad diode it could be leaking enough current through to energize the windings creating an electromagnet which is probably where your power draw came from. Like the video and subscribed. If ya have time, check my channel. I could use a few subscribers since RUclips changed their policies.
The guy is going to convert it to an internal regulator system. My thinks is the same as yours about the windings being energized.
Like
Subback please