Living in a rust belt in Canada, that arguably has some of the worse environments for causing vehicles to rot. I would strongly recommend not covering rust with any black tar/rubber or ashpalt like product. wheel wells, are fine, to help prevent further chipping, You can easily cause a situation where moisture is trapped between the undercoating and metal. This can make a bad situation worse. What we do here is once a year you spray your vehicle with a oil undercoating. Usually the best systems your doors, rocker panels etc are drilled and sprayed with a thin oil and a heavier oil sometimes sticky or even slightly waxy is used on the underneath. This will stop rust dead, if you keep the metal goo'y it won't rust. I have two 30 year old japanse vehicles one of which I daily drive the other is my weekend truck. Both have original paint, they are both a little rough around the edges, but they are about as rusty as when I got them, Nearly a decade ago!
I would agree a system like the one shown is more for a new vehicle, if rust is present you want to oil spray it, not undercoat it with anything that dries
I agree, someone who sold me my explorer thought they were doing me a favor with a nice black rubber undercoat. A few years later its a rust bucket! I did some prep with rust converter and rustoleum and use fluid film and oil on everything now.
Doesnt oil just attract dust and leaves ect and if you get any on the exhaust it will smell and smoke and if you ever have a major coliision and have to do any welding or cutting or painting in hidden areas well oil and paint dont my too well, i dont know why the car manufacturs cant used better corrsion resistant steel or better coatings or a bedliner epoxy or powder coat the suspension parts.My 86 Chevy trucks chassis is a joke, some of the front suspension wasnt even painted from the factory and the cab floor underside doesnt even have paint on it hardley at all! you can see black primer, same thing under the bed, its more overspray than an attempt at a paint job, the underside of the doors are the same thing just barely any paint at all, i took the entire chassis apart and sand blasted everything then epoxy primed everything then repainted it it with this hammered looking greyish black paint and powdercoated all the suspension parts i could unbolt from the truck .You would think by now on a 30-40,000 dollar vehicle you shouldnt have to do extra steps to keep your new car from dissolving out from under you by now,also it seems like exsess oil would also drip off on your garage floor, i could never live up where you get that kind of winter weather cause it would drive me crazy to have my vehicles so filthy from driving in snow and rod salt all the time. It gets bad enough here in North Carolina where we get about 3 snowfalls a season but then its gone in 3-4 days ,when, you live in Michigan or Canda your dealing with this mess for months, i just couldnt drive a brand new car in that salt and snow and ruin it so fast, my wifes sister from Plymouth Michigan has a 3 year old Honda CRV and wanted me to put brakes on it ,i was shocked at the amount of rust on the heads of bolts of the brake system and on the exhaust clamps and the hangers ect, My brother lives in Orlando Fl and his 21 year old Suburban still has the original factory exhaust system on it at 360,000 miles! that salt is death to any car even if your vigalent, How about using a 5 gallon contailer of WD-40 and putting it in a paint spayer o spray bottle or hudsen spayer?, it is supposed to displace water, im shure you have to protect the disc brakes and anything that gives off heat, and doesnt oil break down rubber bushings and stuff?
Leaves and other large debris aren't attracted to the oil, as it gets blown away with the wind. Dust and fine sand are actually your friends. It does get embedded in the oil film and helps prevent it from getting washed away. If you get any bodywork done, the oil is quickly removed with solvents where needed. The products we use up here are friendly to bushings and rubber hoses, as well as plastics. It's also great for electrical connections as it's dielectric and protects against corrosion on the connector terminals and wiring. WD40 isn't very good at long-term protection as it's watery thin and gets washed away quite quickly. It's also a solvent, and will take with it any other oily coating that is protecting the metal, and will cause it to rust faster. I hate WD40. It's not particularly good at doing anything, except temporarily displacing moisture, and I cringe when anyone mentions it being used to lubricate or protect anything. I have a 1988 Merkur Scorpio that's lived through many Northeast winters, and while I've never taken it to get professionally oil sprayed, I have emptied many cans of Krown or Rust Check (the two most popular brands of oil rustproofing spray) inside and under it over the years, and once you scrape off the 1/4" thick layer of caked on slime that coats the underbelly, it's as fresh as a daisy. Every nut and bolt comes off with ease, and all my fuel and brake lines are not only original, but still wear their OE factory paint coatings. The bodywork isn't perfect, but the undersides are about on par with a 3-5 year old vehicle that wasn't oil sprayed. It's a never-ending battle up here, but there are those of us that fight the good fight. And to make up for all the heartache and pain the snow and salt cause us, we take out our aggression in empty parking lots after a fresh dumping of the white stuff. There aren't many things on Earth that can reduce an adult man to a giddy, giggling schoolboy faster than a big snowy parking lot and a RWD car. :)
Damn, going from sleeping in your Impala to being able to drive cars like your own Porsche is incredible. Larry you seem like a legit dude who has clawed your way to the top. Its just nice to see people who appreciate what they have and where they come from. Keep up the good work bro, and I'll keep watching whether you're on drive or not!
The proper time to undercoat a car is when it is brand new. It will stick better and is a better long-term investment. Undercoating a unibody vehicle will make it noticeably quieter due to rubberised undercoat absorbing the road noise propagating through the metal. That's exactly how old Benzs and BMs had a quiet ride. 2 coats will give some improvement, but 5-6 is worth the effort.
This is exactly why I'd like to buy a new car... people neglect their cars, which is why I don't want to buy someone else's problems... but I did anyway and that's all I can afford for now.
Going through a old car from top to bottom with new paint, under coating, insulation, dampeners, etc. is far cheaper than a new car. I plan on returning my old truck to better-than-new condition with a new motor, manual transmission, exhaust, and programmer that can really let me dial in the gas mileage.
hum...I did about 2-3 coats over my whole car and 4-5 coats on just the cabin area, with about half another on the trunk side(ran out) think I'll notice a large difference?
I'd sooner do an oil undercoating than a rubberized undercoating. The downside is you have to oil the chassis every year or so...the upside is, unlike rubber, it won't "peel away" and create an environment where water and salt can get trapped underneath, actually accelerating the process.
Starting tomorrow. 2001 F250. rust bucket from Vermont. But I think I can can save it. It's my very first Ford full size P/U. Made Ford tough ehhhh? On a quiet night you can hear Ford Trucks rusting...lol
Given the age of the vehicle and the condition of the undercarriage I would have opted NOT to use a rubberized undercoating. I'm all for undercoating, I have my car oil sprayed by Krown each fall and although it makes a mess I know my car is protected because it creeps all winter.
I have a 50 year old sedan that was undercoated with this type of rubberized coating for most of its life due to it being used in Idaho. It has been sitting for 10 years and, after looking at the frame there is only surface rust where the undercoat has broken off because it is so old, nothing structural damaged.
Ok, sure. so all pro body workers just paint right over surface rust and unpreped metal. I get that paint will cover the rust blocking oxidation but you still have the issue of chemicals that oxidize metal and affect paint plus the loose particles will cause flaking which all leads to more corrosion.
Sorry D3VO, that's not how this works. It's already oxidising and will continue to do so. This kinda DIY "easy" over painting will slow the process down alright, which is fine for a car that will be moved on/scrapped in a few years(or if you live in a very dry climate). It is _not_ fine for lets say any car which the owner wants to preserve as a classic for the future. The rust will continue eating away at good steel and now it will be hidden by the undercoat layer while it's doing so. Not good. As for added chemicals to neutralise rust as Punkrrrock mentioned, they are only a solution for _extremely_ thin layers of surface rust as the coatings don't penetrate very far. Flaking rust has gone far beyond that point and any bubbling of the paint surface means that the metal has rusted through and become porous and needs to be cut out. _Proper_ rust treatment: remove all visible traces of rust. Treat remaining steel with rust "neutralising" chemicals. Cover surface with high zinc primer. Apply top coat. I'd personally not put undercoatings on top of that as I prefer to be able to keep an eye on proceedings, so would use the various anti rust wax coatings on the market, but they do need more annual upkeep. Just my humble anyway. .
Hey sir ...GREAT VIDEO. Makes me sad though. I too owned a vehicle with sentimental value..I did everything with her. She was a 92 Taurus. Original engine, One rebuilt tranny. I drove her till last year , when driving from Queens to Long Island (Smith Town)... Head gasket blew, after she arrived to our job destination safely, her head gasket blew. 380,000 miles!!!! I had planned on undercoating her after that winter. Never had that opportunity. I had no choice but to put her down. No funds to fix, no where to store her. After seeing your video, and hearing how much your beautiful Impala meant to you....I started feling bummed, and wished I could have repaired her and kept her. I was trying to reach 400,000+ miles. Anyway..... Great video. Will attempt under coating on the replacement 2003 Matrix I now own. Rust every where. Will be following your guidance. Thank you. Christopher, Queens, Ny.
As someone with severe ocd, I absolutely love your channel. I also see how you have it too and how you have used it to your benefit for both yourself and others, it inspires me to do the same. Keep up the great work!
I am also OCD but in jobs like this I let it guide my way, Usually an almost perfect job when I finish if I listen to it but it drives my friends crazy and jobs take a very long time to finish LOL....
If you have OCD then never do this to your vehicle it will just make the rust worse by sealing it in and corrode underneath without evening you knowing, until your vehicle falls apart one day and you are like OH SHIT WHAT HAPPENED.
Its easier to mask off and remove masking from parts if you use tin foil. You can easily wrap it around parts and objects and removes easily once you're done painting.
I always sprayed chassis Saver you can even use it over rust or on new chassis I did it on my 69 chevelle and it's never rusted I also done it on a 2000 Silverado no rust
I undercoated my Silverado last summer in weekend warrior fashion. My frame rails were just as bad as this Impala - Instead of primer and a rubberized true undercoat I used POR-15 and a paint brush with great results. No brush strokes because it self levels, also after wire brushing I wiped everything down with lacquer thinner to remove the dust.
Would strongly recommend covering the driveshaft too, any undercoating or paint blobs on it will cause driveshaft imbalance, or at the very least make DAMN sure you wipe any off.
I bet that the rubberized undercoating is still in great shape. The real question is in which shape is the poor metal behind it! Rubberized undercoatings are notorious for looking pristine while the metal behind them rots like in a grave due to locked in moisture.
I've heard undercoating your vehicle is not good for it as the finish can crack and will trap moisture. I live in NE Ohio where we loooove putting salt on the roads. I plan on spraying the underside of my '89 Ford F-250 with Fluid Film. Much like spraying with used motor oil but the Fluid Film is biodegradable and won't harm rubber bushings or electrical connections. It's certainly not a one time spray. I plan on spraying twice a year.
Is the garden sprayer able to spray something as thick as motor oil? Is it just the hand pump kind of sprayer? I have a garden sprayer but figured it wouldn't be able to pull the oil up and pump it out.
+Ohio Digger Yea, just thin it a little bit with anything like paint thinner or lacquer thinner. It sprays on really well. And the thinner will evaporate and the oil will go back to being thick again. I saturate every hole inside the rails till it runs out.
+lar4305 you can thin it out. But I would recommend getting one of the kits they sell with the gun. You will waste less and apply it more evenly. I also live in NE Ohio and have a GMC Yukon from North Carolina that has hardly any rust. I put it in in October and it is still there. Only place that has really washed off is around the wheel wells and you can easily touch them up. Overall I am satisfied with the durability of it. It does thicken up drastically if left out in the cold so I would recommend bringing it up to room temperate before you spray it.
What part of NE Ohio? I'm in Ytown. I had bought a gun off Amazon with good reviews from people who specifically used it for spraying Fluid Film. I was hoping to have sprayed it by now but never got a chance and now they started dropping salt. So I'll probably leave it sit this winter and spray it in the spring. I was thinking about getting one of those hot plate warmers that you just plug in and setting the Fluid Film can on there to warm it real nice. How often do you have to spray the Yukon? Do you get more than one spray from a gallon of it? It's like $50/gallon. I only put about 2500 miles on the truck this year so maybe I could get away with one spray a year but we will see. I'd rather buy more Fluid Film than have rust repair done I guess.
Arkansas Mudder I kept my new 1996 Cadillac Deville underside wet with WD-40, and the exhaust painted with bbq heat paint, the rest of the unibody had a paint finish. In the North east United States, I have no rust anywhere. My 2002 Chevy venture I used truck bed liner on the underside and wheel wells. As a daily driver, it only suffered from a little rust in the wheel wells which I covered with bondo and more truck bed liner paint. I can get 10 more years out of that van.
turbonut20v I was thinking the same thing. If you put it on jack stands your either not going to get a good coverage but you're going to cover yourself with the undercoating. Good thing I have a lift lol
I would NOT use any rubberized undercoating. Any eventual breach in that type of coating results in moisture being trapped under the coating and speeding up the destruction of your undercarriage. Wool Wax or Fluid Film are lanolin based and are self healing and never dry. They are a much better product that the Rustoleum junk. I bought a used truck that was treated every year with the Zeibart rubberized coating and there were huge pockets of rust on the frame where water was trapped behind the coating. I just had my ‘07 4Runner done with Wool Wax and that stuff is amazing. These sprayers should be able to apply Wool Wax. My retailer did it for $180....well worth it IMO.
A big and important part of undercoating an old and corroded car like this is protecting the cavities with a rust converter and cavity vax. This step was apparently totally skipped here.
Congratulations for killing your 95 Impala SS !! By using a wire brush you effectively turned rust into molten rust. molten rust may look like metal but is still rust. Then you covered rust with paint. Rust contains water, oxygen and acids that will keep eating through metal. Then you covered the whole thing with undercoat so you can't even see how it is rusting underneath. What happens next is that the rust will turn metal into dust so that the paint and undercoat will form pockets that will over time fill with water, thereby speeding up the process, and because of the undercoat you won't notice it until complete panels or even the frame are rusted through. But then it is too late, as a restoration will financially make no sense. The only way to stop this (and that is going to be nasty and expensive) is to sandblast the whole bottom of your car (which btw. means disassembling a lot of it) and then repaint it and hope that the rust hasn't crept between individual sheets of metal. For everyone else watching this video: Don't make the same mistake! Get to a shop with a lift and a compressor and blast some oily wax on the bottom. Repeat this process every year or two and your car will last forever, even if it is already rusting a bit.
Excellent advise. I have an all original 1996 SS with 50k miles on that's been garaged for the majority of its life. I have some surface rust on the bottom of the car, but nothing like this 1995 had. Thinking of instead of painting or undercoating it, I will simply just spread fluid film all over the place to basically slow it down, and hopefully never have to go through what was done in this video.
I don't know about the primer they used. But rustoleum makes a reformer that chemically reacts to rust and turns it into a primer, stopping it from continuing to rust in the future. Plus, rust needs oxygen, if it is sealed in it won't have oxygen to react with to continue to grow, much like a fire.
half a dozen cans of fluid film each year when truck is new....will last along time. i have 92 chevy work van that only has surface rust...i am in new england..guy i bought it from did it right when he bought it new...still on the road
It is Rustoleum as he said at the table, and it is the 'stops rust" which is made to spray directly on the heavily rusted area. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rusty-metal-primer/
Yes 100% if your in a dry climate and wanna make the underneath of your car look new again but out here in Canada if we did that 5 years you wouldn’t have a bottom or frame on your car or truck in Canada you gotta use a oil under coating like (fluid film) (known) or (pro-form) and have it drilled. That’s how you make your vehicles last.
Obviously this should have been done BEFORE the car had any rust. The heavely pitted frame rails, floorpans etc. should have been blasted to get clear metal. In my experience the rust will always come back unless you really remove all the rust first. I've been there... I know some products will apply right over (slight) rust but it just doesn't seem right to me. I am curious what you did to prevent rust from the inside-out, which as you know has nothing to do with undercoating. Best regards.
+MrZdvy Rustoleum makes a product called rust reformer which basically turns a rusty oxidized surface into a primer surface ready for paint without any sanding needed. I'm surprised Larry didn't use that here. Although I can't say how it holds up in the long run I sprayed it as an undercoating to me lawn mower 4 months ago and its held up strong.
i was going to buy a truck off a guy so i email him..how is the frame?? course he says great..solid etc.. so i go look at it and its all painted ..looks to good..i take out my leatherman tool and start poking around and punch thru 2 spots lol..the sale did not go thru.
Very informative video. You inspired me a lot when you said that you used that car in your first date with your wife. Now I understand why you give much care to your stuff dude. I learned so much on how to maintain a car and how to treasure memories with a love one. Godbless all the way from Philippines. 🇵🇭🇵🇭🇵🇭
this is why I subbed I've don't collision and restoration for about 4 years and all I knew was the tedious and expensive processes can't wait to do this to my 64 dart
1:13 "they told me i spent 15 minutes washing the underside of my car. well, time flies when you're having fun." love your videos man. i always appreciate someone who's unapologetically passionate about his job. everyone else seems so boring lol
You are absolutely correct, most people just really don't understand all this does is destroy the car. You won't ever get all of it off either, It not only traps moister, But If any salt ever gets in it spreads like wildfire even further.
This method as many have pointed out only hides the rust and doesn't stop it's progression. Even the insides of the frame get zero protection from this and that's how most frames and channels rot out. Just picked up a new RAV4 and applied Fluid Film to it. I used rubberized coatings in the past on a rusty vehicle and a couple years later it was lifting from the rust action below. I'll stick with my Fluid Film. Get it? Stick?
I like to do this procedure on a new vehicle I've acquired However I use a rustoleum spray cans and two wheel ramps and I don't take the tires off, just turn the steering wheel as needed for access.
GOD! This video is addictive lol. I really want to do this to my car, just need to save some money for a sprayer and see if anyone in town will let me use their lift. Good video, love the before and after shots
It's easier to get a company to do this for you, for about a few hundred bucks. Instead of buying the tool and materials for a lot more, just to do this once per decade .
RolandAshcroft seems like your lazy or a clueless fuckwit that can’t change a tyre also I’ve done is many times and it’s easy as fuck but best results remove the whole suspension,fuel tank and other things that are in the way
Gaz Girl I agree on taking the time to drop the exhaust. I would probably cover the suspension and brakes just to maintain alignment specs. I would probably cover any bushings as well just to be on the safe side in case any of the products deteriorate the bushing material.
If you want something done right do it yourself. Companies just want your "few hundred bucks." They do not prep your vehicle. Instead they mask over the rust rather than neutralize. The finished product looks the same and you'll be none the wiser.
Very true. I had my car painted at Maaco & they never even primmered the vehicle & the paint was falling off like bread crumbs barely after a year. It looked fantastic initially.
Loving the comments section. Based on my personal experience, it's best to get this done when you get a new car. But if you want a used vehicle to last a bit longer, use degreaser , metal prep, then your rust paint. In nova scotia they pore salt on the roads likes it's a party. It's better to protect it now,because that salt isn't going to care how well you did that proper prep with sandblasting.
This. My father used to oil a VW Jetta from new, since 1988 and I now own the car and it has no rust spots on the bottom. I am now doing a full rebuild on the body.
This is a terrible recommendation. It degrades any plastics/rubbers on the outside/underside of your car, not to mention you're spreading motor oil all over the place while you drive when it rains/etc.
Start by saying I am not an undercoating expert but have done quite a bit of research. I’ve watched other videos of yours in this one you might be over your head. I lost a truck frame in years past doing pretty much what you’re demonstrating. A rust converter instead of a rust primer. No rubberized coating over any rust. What about cavities such as boxed frames, rocker panels, doors etc. most would recommend cavity wax. Equipment looks pretty good. Viewers.....do your research.
Never use rubberized undercoating. It ruined my last truck. Use fluid film or cosmoline. Both are used by the military to ship items across the the salty sea.
@@napoleon23232 Lot of rubber based undercoating can trap water against the metal encouraging rust that the user would never notice and it would slowly get worse over time.
Dovah Do Volom this is why the prep work is so important. You do this on a summer day and you pressure wash the entire bottom, scrape off any built up rust, dry with compressed air and maybe let sit for a day or two, dry again and then undercoat. If there’s no moisture to trap then you will prevent future rust or slow and maybe stop the current accumulation of wear. You don’t undercoat 15 minutes after you wash it lol
@@sub_second_life3174 its still locking any moisture that is in there in. Salty water from all the salt used in NY during the winter month's seeps into everything by natural chemical reaction. ANY small cracks or "oops I missed a spot" and that salt water is gonna eat the metal alive. It has no place to go, its trapped. Worst of all you'll never see it and think everything is okay. There are other products out there I would suggest. One being Fluid Film. You could probably use the blower in this video to do the work for you as well. If anything, before you decide, do a search on here for the dangers of rubber based under coatings and see what alternatives there are. You may be suprised by what you find. Just my 2 cents. Well... that was more like a quarter but hey, you probably didnt read this far anyway -✌😆
Hmmm... I've been told that undercoating isn't great because it can mask rust spots that develop from small cracks. Other folks really tout something called fluid film to be applied yearly to protect against rust. They both seem to have pros and cons. I'll have to admit though, the underside of the impala turned out looking real nice.
Fluid film is just kind of an oil like coating it has to be reapplied because it drips away or dries up. Undercoating can mask rust if you don't prep proper. Which most people don't do. They just spray the undercoat on. In which case the above would be the better option. Especially if you don't pressure wash it first. You need to be detail orientated with undercoating for it to do it's job proper.
You are 100% correct, it essentially destroys the car, and you sill never get it all off . Not only that if salt gets in , it spreads like wildfire with the moisture.
Idk about you, but all the cars in europe have factory rubberized undercoating. I would like you to try on a piece a sheet metal and let it outdoors to see whats happening. So first make sure the metal is as clean as possible from any rust, stains and oils. Then, scrub everything with fine sandpaper for better grip. After this, apply primer and sand it too after its dry, and eventually, apply the rubberized undercoating 2 times. You will never need to undercoat your car ever again, and it will not cause rust! All its needed its some of your time, attention to details and working clean
If you live in a area that gets salt applied to the roads DO NO DO THIS TO YOUR VEHICLE!! Instead use a product like fluid film!! Watch south main auto channel about rubber undercoating if you don’t believe me it will destroy your vehicles
This has got to be the best tool I have seen in quite a long time. I will be adding this to my arsenal of tools and use it as an up-sell to my customers. I wonder if it can handle regular auto paint for those ultra-finicky clients.
huge fan, quick question. How do the intricate parts react to the undercoat? (u-joints, parking brake cable) also covering the fuel filter may make a new filter an issue.
Just watched a video from a mechanic who refuses to work on cars with rubberized undercoating. Not only does it trap moisture leading to MORE rust, but many of those intricate parts are virtually impossible to work on now.
looks really good. you could paint the exhaust pipes with high temperature spray, so everything will be black under the car. you can find it at the home depot. really cheap.
Great video as always- just a comment around use of acetone to clean components- it's a terrific solvent but it is a plasiticizer meaning the it will eat/solubilize some plastics so makes sure your waste containers can handle the acetone
Always LOVE your videos Larry! Keep up the amazing work. This what i was looking for!!! Wish i could like the video a hundred times! Merry Christmas! :D
This guy has no clue. First take all the surfaces to be undercoated down to bare metal with a sand blaster. It will continue to rust under the undercoating.
No, if you oil down a chassis, the oil will actually hold better if there's a bit of rust (not huge flakes...I mean "surface rust.") I'm NOT talking about "rubberized undercoating/glorified bed liner"; I'm talking about oil coating, or something akin to the "cosmoline" treatment the military gives machinery shipped across the ocean.
metal rusts when oxidizing oxidizing means when the metal comes into contact with oxygen if covered properly that rust should stop oxidizing therefor rust not spreading
Need to sand it and then apply ospho to stop the rusting process - THEN paint. O2 will be able to get through these coatings, so the rusting process will continue (the coatings only serve to stop water and salt, which encourage the reaction. Once the bare metal is exposed, it will continue to rust even when coated. Ospho bonds to the exposed iron which prevents the O2 from rusting the metal - thus stopping the rusting process
A normal underbody coating won't help stop rust and in some cases will expedient it. If any access to the inside of the coating is present it will have moisture get back there and it will rust behind the coating. I just went through this with my vehicle. It came with a coating already on it then I noticed rust starting to bleed though the coating so I removed it and found a lot of rust behind the coating so I ended up prepping the surface and por15 the entire frame.
Junk it, get one from out west and undercoat it b4 the metal has absorbed the salt. I live in the far north, way more salt here, I know of what I speak!
If he didn't have this car then he wouldn't have been able to make this video to show us this awesome product. Your welcome for bringing you back to reality
I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND putting on some rust stop ( many good products out there ) on any rusted areas and letting it dry overnight before you apply this stuff.
This type of product is nothing more than a cosmetic cover up. Any undercoating that cures/dry hard will eventually crack/chip away. These areas will hold moisture and other contaminants that will speed up oxidation.
Terrible thing to do look into it. The moisture gets trapped and makes vehicles rust out even quicker. Also a lot of important components get coated over making them even harder to work on. Look up Eric the car guy under costing vehicle. Truck with 55k miles completely trashed because of this stuff. Don’t do it.
I run a hotrod shop and we raptor line interior and undercarriage on almost all restorations. For real coverage you need a hopper gun and about a gallon of product for the bottom.wrap a curtain around the car and properly mask it off cause that stuff goes everywhere. Just a tip. Last coat use circular patterns to blend the finish then unmask before the hardline bridges.
Something that nobody else but me does(but I can say it works!) is using spray in bed liner as undercoat. It's very thick, and very tough. Won't chip and scratch when rocks, salt and general toad debris hit it. I personally do 5 full coats, and when it dries, I do one coat of fluid film, which is an oily rust-inhibitor and lubricant. Is it overkill? Absolutely, but I'll be damned if it doesn't prevent your frame from rusting... forever.
you should have taken the exhaust off, and raising the car a touch more would have saved you from any head bumps and sticky hair moments. when cleaning the rust off a mask at least is a must
this is interesting because i was told long time ago i was told that if a car has not been undercoated within its first year that its pointless and ineffective because the metal damage under the fresh layer of undercoating will continue to rust
As someone who undercoats cars for a living I'd recommend not wearing a particle dust mask when undercoating. You need to wear a respirator with the proper cartridges on it. Awesome machine though and cool video. Love your vids Larry.
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Living in a rust belt in Canada, that arguably has some of the worse environments for causing vehicles to rot. I would strongly recommend not covering rust with any black tar/rubber or ashpalt like product. wheel wells, are fine, to help prevent further chipping, You can easily cause a situation where moisture is trapped between the undercoating and metal. This can make a bad situation worse. What we do here is once a year you spray your vehicle with a oil undercoating. Usually the best systems your doors, rocker panels etc are drilled and sprayed with a thin oil and a heavier oil sometimes sticky or even slightly waxy is used on the underneath. This will stop rust dead, if you keep the metal goo'y it won't rust. I have two 30 year old japanse vehicles one of which I daily drive the other is my weekend truck. Both have original paint, they are both a little rough around the edges, but they are about as rusty as when I got them, Nearly a decade ago!
I would agree a system like the one shown is more for a new vehicle, if rust is present you want to oil spray it, not undercoat it with anything that dries
I agree, someone who sold me my explorer thought they were doing me a favor with a nice black rubber undercoat. A few years later its a rust bucket! I did some prep with rust converter and rustoleum and use fluid film and oil on everything now.
Rick James
Doesnt oil just attract dust and leaves ect and if you get any on the exhaust it will smell and smoke and if you ever have a major coliision and have to do any welding or cutting or painting in hidden areas well oil and paint dont my too well, i dont know why the car manufacturs cant used better corrsion resistant steel or better coatings or a bedliner epoxy or powder coat the suspension parts.My 86 Chevy trucks chassis is a joke, some of the front suspension wasnt even painted from the factory and the cab floor underside doesnt even have paint on it hardley at all! you can see black primer, same thing under the bed, its more overspray than an attempt at a paint job, the underside of the doors are the same thing just barely any paint at all, i took the entire chassis apart and sand blasted everything then epoxy primed everything then repainted it it with this hammered looking greyish black paint and powdercoated all the suspension parts i could unbolt from the truck .You would think by now on a 30-40,000 dollar vehicle you shouldnt have to do extra steps to keep your new car from dissolving out from under you by now,also it seems like exsess oil would also drip off on your garage floor, i could never live up where you get that kind of winter weather cause it would drive me crazy to have my vehicles so filthy from driving in snow and rod salt all the time. It gets bad enough here in North Carolina where we get about 3 snowfalls a season but then its gone in 3-4 days ,when, you live in Michigan or Canda your dealing with this mess for months, i just couldnt drive a brand new car in that salt and snow and ruin it so fast, my wifes sister from Plymouth Michigan has a 3 year old Honda CRV and wanted me to put brakes on it ,i was shocked at the amount of rust on the heads of bolts of the brake system and on the exhaust clamps and the hangers ect, My brother lives in Orlando Fl and his 21 year old Suburban still has the original factory exhaust system on it at 360,000 miles! that salt is death to any car even if your vigalent, How about using a 5 gallon contailer of WD-40 and putting it in a paint spayer o spray bottle or hudsen spayer?, it is supposed to displace water, im shure you have to protect the disc brakes and anything that gives off heat, and doesnt oil break down rubber bushings and stuff?
Leaves and other large debris aren't attracted to the oil, as it gets blown away with the wind. Dust and fine sand are actually your friends. It does get embedded in the oil film and helps prevent it from getting washed away. If you get any bodywork done, the oil is quickly removed with solvents where needed.
The products we use up here are friendly to bushings and rubber hoses, as well as plastics. It's also great for electrical connections as it's dielectric and protects against corrosion on the connector terminals and wiring.
WD40 isn't very good at long-term protection as it's watery thin and gets washed away quite quickly. It's also a solvent, and will take with it any other oily coating that is protecting the metal, and will cause it to rust faster. I hate WD40. It's not particularly good at doing anything, except temporarily displacing moisture, and I cringe when anyone mentions it being used to lubricate or protect anything.
I have a 1988 Merkur Scorpio that's lived through many Northeast winters, and while I've never taken it to get professionally oil sprayed, I have emptied many cans of Krown or Rust Check (the two most popular brands of oil rustproofing spray) inside and under it over the years, and once you scrape off the 1/4" thick layer of caked on slime that coats the underbelly, it's as fresh as a daisy. Every nut and bolt comes off with ease, and all my fuel and brake lines are not only original, but still wear their OE factory paint coatings. The bodywork isn't perfect, but the undersides are about on par with a 3-5 year old vehicle that wasn't oil sprayed.
It's a never-ending battle up here, but there are those of us that fight the good fight. And to make up for all the heartache and pain the snow and salt cause us, we take out our aggression in empty parking lots after a fresh dumping of the white stuff. There aren't many things on Earth that can reduce an adult man to a giddy, giggling schoolboy faster than a big snowy parking lot and a RWD car. :)
Damn, going from sleeping in your Impala to being able to drive cars like your own Porsche is incredible. Larry you seem like a legit dude who has clawed your way to the top. Its just nice to see people who appreciate what they have and where they come from. Keep up the good work bro, and I'll keep watching whether you're on drive or not!
Whoa, I clearly don't know the whole story...
RUclipss paying him
The proper time to undercoat a car is when it is brand new. It will stick better and is a better long-term investment.
Undercoating a unibody vehicle will make it noticeably quieter due to rubberised undercoat absorbing the road noise propagating through the metal. That's exactly how old Benzs and BMs had a quiet ride. 2 coats will give some improvement, but 5-6 is worth the effort.
This is exactly why I'd like to buy a new car... people neglect their cars, which is why I don't want to buy someone else's problems... but I did anyway and that's all I can afford for now.
Going through a old car from top to bottom with new paint, under coating, insulation, dampeners, etc. is far cheaper than a new car. I plan on returning my old truck to better-than-new condition with a new motor, manual transmission, exhaust, and programmer that can really let me dial in the gas mileage.
hum...I did about 2-3 coats over my whole car and 4-5 coats on just the cabin area, with about half another on the trunk side(ran out) think I'll notice a large difference?
I'd sooner do an oil undercoating than a rubberized undercoating. The downside is you have to oil the chassis every year or so...the upside is, unlike rubber, it won't "peel away" and create an environment where water and salt can get trapped underneath, actually accelerating the process.
I can t imagine doing that with the car on jack stands.
Exactly what was on my mind
Doing it right now... Sucks
I'm about to next week.... :P week(end) warriors united! :P
Starting tomorrow. 2001 F250. rust bucket from Vermont. But I think I can can save it. It's my very first Ford full size P/U. Made Ford tough ehhhh? On a quiet night you can hear Ford Trucks rusting...lol
Lol
You really should have used a mask while cleaning that rust off...
+Thor Wald ikr.
why is rust bad for you?
lmao
its iron oxide. not that bad for you
Tiny metal particles in your lungs? Have fun.
Fluid film is by far the best choice! Never encapsulate rust as it causes much more damage!
Given the age of the vehicle and the condition of the undercarriage I would have opted NOT to use a rubberized undercoating. I'm all for undercoating, I have my car oil sprayed by Krown each fall and although it makes a mess I know my car is protected because it creeps all winter.
Lmao krown is trash
I want a follow-up video that demonstrates how this undercoat completely destroyed what was left of his car. There's no way this did any good.
Lol I know. I bet the undercarriage of this car has disintegrated to dust already loll
That only happens if you put it on too thick. If it gets over 1/8", it will dry and crack, and then trap water.
I have a 50 year old sedan that was undercoated with this type of rubberized coating for most of its life due to it being used in Idaho.
It has been sitting for 10 years and, after looking at the frame there is only surface rust where the undercoat has broken off because it is so old, nothing structural damaged.
@@mistersinister2043 So if it's thinner, it doesn't dry and crack? Huh???
@@smmalafa1 Its been snowing there for the past 4 months
there is still snow there, on the border to canada
It will still rust. you just want see it happen now. Need to treat rust by removing it completely or neutralizing it with chemicals.
adam courtney you understand that if you completely cover it off the metal won't oxidize, I don't think you understand how metal rusts...
Ok, sure. so all pro body workers just paint right over surface rust and unpreped metal. I get that paint will cover the rust blocking oxidation but you still have the issue of chemicals that oxidize metal and affect paint plus the loose particles will cause flaking which all leads to more corrosion.
I would assume the primer they applied being named for applying to rusted surfaces would have chemicals in it to neutralize/stop rust.
Sorry D3VO, that's not how this works. It's already oxidising and will continue to do so. This kinda DIY "easy" over painting will slow the process down alright, which is fine for a car that will be moved on/scrapped in a few years(or if you live in a very dry climate). It is _not_ fine for lets say any car which the owner wants to preserve as a classic for the future. The rust will continue eating away at good steel and now it will be hidden by the undercoat layer while it's doing so. Not good.
As for added chemicals to neutralise rust as Punkrrrock mentioned, they are only a solution for _extremely_ thin layers of surface rust as the coatings don't penetrate very far. Flaking rust has gone far beyond that point and any bubbling of the paint surface means that the metal has rusted through and become porous and needs to be cut out.
_Proper_ rust treatment: remove all visible traces of rust. Treat remaining steel with rust "neutralising" chemicals. Cover surface with high zinc primer. Apply top coat. I'd personally not put undercoatings on top of that as I prefer to be able to keep an eye on proceedings, so would use the various anti rust wax coatings on the market, but they do need more annual upkeep.
Just my humble anyway. .
agreed.
Hey sir ...GREAT VIDEO. Makes me sad though. I too owned a vehicle with sentimental value..I did everything with her. She was a 92 Taurus. Original engine, One rebuilt tranny. I drove her till last year , when driving from Queens to Long Island (Smith Town)... Head gasket blew, after she arrived to our job destination safely, her head gasket blew. 380,000 miles!!!! I had planned on undercoating her after that winter. Never had that opportunity. I had no choice but to put her down. No funds to fix, no where to store her. After seeing your video, and hearing how much your beautiful Impala meant to you....I started feling bummed, and wished I could have repaired her and kept her. I was trying to reach 400,000+ miles. Anyway..... Great video. Will attempt under coating on the replacement 2003 Matrix I now own. Rust every where. Will be following your guidance. Thank you.
Christopher, Queens, Ny.
How is this holding up several years later? Would love to see an update!
this
LKQ Canada has it now
As someone with severe ocd, I absolutely love your channel. I also see how you have it too and how you have used it to your benefit for both yourself and others, it inspires me to do the same. Keep up the great work!
I was thinking the same thing!! OCD Brothers! lol
How can you not get annoyed by the different grading in all the shots
I am also OCD but in jobs like this I let it guide my way, Usually an almost perfect job when I finish if I listen to it but it drives my friends crazy and jobs take a very long time to finish LOL....
If you have OCD then never do this to your vehicle it will just make the rust worse by sealing it in and corrode underneath without evening you knowing, until your vehicle falls apart one day and you are like OH SHIT WHAT HAPPENED.
Its easier to mask off and remove masking from parts if you use tin foil. You can easily wrap it around parts and objects and removes easily once you're done painting.
Rubber undercoating makes rust worse, prove me wrong
Best way is Raptor.
Thats is the worst idea EVER. That was just a bandaid over your rusting car.
FLUID FILM IS THE BEST.
I always sprayed chassis Saver you can even use it over rust or on new chassis I did it on my 69 chevelle and it's never rusted I also done it on a 2000 Silverado no rust
Right
@AYE OK SURE what about OSPHO?
@@johns3153 how long will the protection last?
I Love people that still repair stuff instead of throwing away and buying new like most of us do well done that guy your great.....nice vid
What about sand blasting the metal so it can be pure steel then spray it?
Sand blasting, in your driveway? You mad?
blast w/ walnut shell
Siana Gearz who said anything about sandblasting in anyone's driveway...... You mad? Plus it can be easily achieved. Smfh
lol
I undercoated my Silverado last summer in weekend warrior fashion. My frame rails were just as bad as this Impala - Instead of primer and a rubberized true undercoat I used POR-15 and a paint brush with great results. No brush strokes because it self levels, also after wire brushing I wiped everything down with lacquer thinner to remove the dust.
Rust will continue to rust more underneath ! Not o good job i have to say. Best thing is to sandblast the hole body first and then do as you wish !!!
Costadino Serafimidis sandblasting will destroy underneath. You need after sandblasting some area immediately put some layer of protection.
I would invest in a professional sand blasting job to remove rust and get the entire bottom down to the metal.
Extremerecluse Fallows your a jackass
@@eljeffe697 Why is he a jack rabbit? 😂
Does it come with a lift?
Eastern Explorer wut
Would strongly recommend covering the driveshaft too, any undercoating or paint blobs on it will cause driveshaft imbalance, or at the very least make DAMN sure you wipe any off.
@AMMO NYC
Can you post a picture of the undercoating after the 2 years , Is it still in good shape ?
I bet that the rubberized undercoating is still in great shape. The real question is in which shape is the poor metal behind it!
Rubberized undercoatings are notorious for looking pristine while the metal behind them rots like in a grave due to locked in moisture.
Wow! thanks AMMO NYC for sharing. Amazing hearing how much sentimental value this car has to you.
I've heard undercoating your vehicle is not good for it as the finish can crack and will trap moisture. I live in NE Ohio where we loooove putting salt on the roads. I plan on spraying the underside of my '89 Ford F-250 with Fluid Film. Much like spraying with used motor oil but the Fluid Film is biodegradable and won't harm rubber bushings or electrical connections. It's certainly not a one time spray. I plan on spraying twice a year.
+Ohio Digger I use plain oil motor oil sprayed out of a garden pressure sprayer. Its a 97 Jeep and rust free.Oil is the best against rust.
Is the garden sprayer able to spray something as thick as motor oil? Is it just the hand pump kind of sprayer? I have a garden sprayer but figured it wouldn't be able to pull the oil up and pump it out.
+Ohio Digger Yea, just thin it a little bit with anything like paint thinner or lacquer thinner. It sprays on really well. And the thinner will evaporate and the oil will go back to being thick again. I saturate every hole inside the rails till it runs out.
+lar4305 you can thin it out. But I would recommend getting one of the kits they sell with the gun. You will waste less and apply it more evenly. I also live in NE Ohio and have a GMC Yukon from North Carolina that has hardly any rust. I put it in in October and it is still there. Only place that has really washed off is around the wheel wells and you can easily touch them up. Overall I am satisfied with the durability of it. It does thicken up drastically if left out in the cold so I would recommend bringing it up to room temperate before you spray it.
What part of NE Ohio? I'm in Ytown. I had bought a gun off Amazon with good reviews from people who specifically used it for spraying Fluid Film. I was hoping to have sprayed it by now but never got a chance and now they started dropping salt. So I'll probably leave it sit this winter and spray it in the spring. I was thinking about getting one of those hot plate warmers that you just plug in and setting the Fluid Film can on there to warm it real nice. How often do you have to spray the Yukon? Do you get more than one spray from a gallon of it? It's like $50/gallon. I only put about 2500 miles on the truck this year so maybe I could get away with one spray a year but we will see. I'd rather buy more Fluid Film than have rust repair done I guess.
I'd use a rust converter first then a underseal as final coat .
He used the rust primer which I think has rust inhibitors in it
doing that on jackstands would be shitty, good thing i have a lift.
turbonut20v is How much to send it tasmania
turbonut20v 😂😂I know it will be hell
Arkansas Mudder I kept my new 1996 Cadillac Deville underside wet with WD-40, and the exhaust painted with bbq heat paint, the rest of the unibody had a paint finish. In the North east United States, I have no rust anywhere. My 2002 Chevy venture I used truck bed liner on the underside and wheel wells. As a daily driver, it only suffered from a little rust in the wheel wells which I covered with bondo and more truck bed liner paint. I can get 10 more years out of that van.
turbonut20v I was thinking the same thing. If you put it on jack stands your either not going to get a good coverage but you're going to cover yourself with the undercoating. Good thing I have a lift lol
Wait, so how did you utilize the WD-40? And what paint were you using for the unibody?
I would NOT use any rubberized undercoating. Any eventual breach in that type of coating results in moisture being trapped under the coating and speeding up the destruction of your undercarriage. Wool Wax or Fluid Film are lanolin based and are self healing and never dry. They are a much better product that the Rustoleum junk. I bought a used truck that was treated every year with the Zeibart rubberized coating and there were huge pockets of rust on the frame where water was trapped behind the coating. I just had my ‘07 4Runner done with Wool Wax and that stuff is amazing. These sprayers should be able to apply Wool Wax. My retailer did it for $180....well worth it IMO.
A big and important part of undercoating an old and corroded car like this is protecting the cavities with a rust converter and cavity vax. This step was apparently totally skipped here.
How's it holding up after two years?
Probably junked it already.
Congratulations for killing your 95 Impala SS !!
By using a wire brush you effectively turned rust into molten rust. molten rust may look like metal but is still rust. Then you covered rust with paint. Rust contains water, oxygen and acids that will keep eating through metal. Then you covered the whole thing with undercoat so you can't even see how it is rusting underneath. What happens next is that the rust will turn metal into dust so that the paint and undercoat will form pockets that will over time fill with water, thereby speeding up the process, and because of the undercoat you won't notice it until complete panels or even the frame are rusted through. But then it is too late, as a restoration will financially make no sense.
The only way to stop this (and that is going to be nasty and expensive) is to sandblast the whole bottom of your car (which btw. means disassembling a lot of it) and then repaint it and hope that the rust hasn't crept between individual sheets of metal.
For everyone else watching this video: Don't make the same mistake! Get to a shop with a lift and a compressor and blast some oily wax on the bottom. Repeat this process every year or two and your car will last forever, even if it is already rusting a bit.
Excellent advise. I have an all original 1996 SS with 50k miles on that's been garaged for the majority of its life. I have some surface rust on the bottom of the car, but nothing like this 1995 had. Thinking of instead of painting or undercoating it, I will simply just spread fluid film all over the place to basically slow it down, and hopefully never have to go through what was done in this video.
ConfusedSoul24 Oily wax?
I don't know about the primer they used. But rustoleum makes a reformer that chemically reacts to rust and turns it into a primer, stopping it from continuing to rust in the future. Plus, rust needs oxygen, if it is sealed in it won't have oxygen to react with to continue to grow, much like a fire.
half a dozen cans of fluid film each year when truck is new....will last along time. i have 92 chevy work van that only has surface rust...i am in new england..guy i bought it from did it right when he bought it new...still on the road
It is Rustoleum as he said at the table, and it is the 'stops rust" which is made to spray directly on the heavily rusted area. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rusty-metal-primer/
skip to 6:19 for the real start of the video
"There's no over spray" ...while the exhaust pipe shows OVERSPRAY
He said the primer had no over spray, didn't say anything about the undercoat.
“Whoa, we didn’t ask you that.”
Yes 100% if your in a dry climate and wanna make the underneath of your car look new again but out here in Canada if we did that 5 years you wouldn’t have a bottom or frame on your car or truck in Canada you gotta use a oil under coating like (fluid film) (known) or (pro-form) and have it drilled. That’s how you make your vehicles last.
Obviously this should have been done BEFORE the car had any rust. The heavely pitted frame rails, floorpans etc. should have been blasted to get clear metal. In my experience the rust will always come back unless you really remove all the rust first. I've been there... I know some products will apply right over (slight) rust but it just doesn't seem right to me. I am curious what you did to prevent rust from the inside-out, which as you know has nothing to do with undercoating. Best regards.
+MrZdvy Rustoleum makes a product called rust reformer which basically turns a rusty oxidized surface into a primer surface ready for paint without any sanding needed. I'm surprised Larry didn't use that here. Although I can't say how it holds up in the long run I sprayed it as an undercoating to me lawn mower 4 months ago and its held up strong.
i was going to buy a truck off a guy so i email him..how is the frame?? course he says great..solid etc.. so i go look at it and its all painted ..looks to good..i take out my leatherman tool and start poking around and punch thru 2 spots lol..the sale did not go thru.
Very informative video. You inspired me a lot when you said that you used that car in your first date with your wife. Now I understand why you give much care to your stuff dude. I learned so much on how to maintain a car and how to treasure memories with a love one. Godbless all the way from Philippines. 🇵🇭🇵🇭🇵🇭
So basically a big advertisement for Wagner HVLP sprayers.
I personally would've coated all the rust with Phosphoric acid to prep it...
is there a Phosphoric acid paint coating that your referring to? or something like this product ~ . www.kleanstrip.com/product/phosphoric-prep-etch
this is why I subbed I've don't collision and restoration for about 4 years and all I knew was the tedious and expensive processes can't wait to do this to my 64 dart
1:13 "they told me i spent 15 minutes washing the underside of my car. well, time flies when you're having fun."
love your videos man. i always appreciate someone who's unapologetically passionate about his job. everyone else seems so boring lol
I cried when I saw you do this to your impala SS..m I had a 94 caprice interceptor for years and was one of my favorite cars I ever drove.
undercoating destroys your car.....ask ANY NY state mechanic. moisture still gets in....but is not able to dry
You are absolutely correct, most people just really don't understand all this does is destroy the car. You won't ever get all of it off either, It not only traps moister, But If any salt ever gets in it spreads like wildfire even further.
Who would watch tv when you have this quality on RUclips?
I love painting. It's so fun and rewarding.
This method as many have pointed out only hides the rust and doesn't stop it's progression. Even the insides of the frame get zero protection from this and that's how most frames and channels rot out. Just picked up a new RAV4 and applied Fluid Film to it. I used rubberized coatings in the past on a rusty vehicle and a couple years later it was lifting from the rust action below. I'll stick with my Fluid Film. Get it? Stick?
I like to do this procedure on a new vehicle I've acquired However I use a rustoleum spray cans and two wheel ramps and I don't take the tires off, just turn the steering wheel as needed for access.
I love it! Work smarter not harder. I like the way you think.
GOD! This video is addictive lol. I really want to do this to my car, just need to save some money for a sprayer and see if anyone in town will let me use their lift. Good video, love the before and after shots
It's easier to get a company to do this for you, for about a few hundred bucks. Instead of buying the tool and materials for a lot more, just to do this once per decade .
RolandAshcroft seems like your lazy or a clueless fuckwit that can’t change a tyre also I’ve done is many times and it’s easy as fuck but best results remove the whole suspension,fuel tank and other things that are in the way
Gaz Girl I agree on taking the time to drop the exhaust. I would probably cover the suspension and brakes just to maintain alignment specs. I would probably cover any bushings as well just to be on the safe side in case any of the products deteriorate the bushing material.
Great idea
If you want something done right do it yourself. Companies just want your "few hundred bucks." They do not prep your vehicle. Instead they mask over the rust rather than neutralize. The finished product looks the same and you'll be none the wiser.
Very true. I had my car painted at Maaco & they never even primmered the vehicle & the paint was falling off like bread crumbs barely after a year. It looked fantastic initially.
Loving the comments section. Based on my personal experience, it's best to get this done when you get a new car. But if you want a used vehicle to last a bit longer, use degreaser , metal prep, then your rust paint. In nova scotia they pore salt on the roads likes it's a party. It's better to protect it now,because that salt isn't going to care how well you did that proper prep with sandblasting.
Spray it with used motor oil. Your Grandkids will be still driving it 30 years later.
SuperCyril2 it will not harm the car??
This. My father used to oil a VW Jetta from new, since 1988 and I now own the car and it has no rust spots on the bottom. I am now doing a full rebuild on the body.
Juden Arier yeah ! Did that a few weeks ago ! Few days after went to the inspection, guy told me i have a huge leak, the car is sweating all over ^^
This is a terrible recommendation. It degrades any plastics/rubbers on the outside/underside of your car, not to mention you're spreading motor oil all over the place while you drive when it rains/etc.
Used engine oil is what i use once a year on all my cars. They don't rust. spray everything under the car, inside rockers and door bottoms.
Start by saying I am not an undercoating expert but have done quite a bit of research. I’ve watched other videos of yours in this one you might be over your head. I lost a truck frame in years past doing pretty much what you’re demonstrating. A rust converter instead of a rust primer. No rubberized coating over any rust. What about cavities such as boxed frames, rocker panels, doors etc. most would recommend cavity wax. Equipment looks pretty good. Viewers.....do your research.
not spraying any protection inside the frame or the doors? it will rust from the inside!
Never use rubberized undercoating. It ruined my last truck. Use fluid film or cosmoline. Both are used by the military to ship items across the the salty sea.
That's one thing that I'll NEVER gonna do with my car!
Why?
@@napoleon23232 Lot of rubber based undercoating can trap water against the metal encouraging rust that the user would never notice and it would slowly get worse over time.
Dovah Do Volom this is why the prep work is so important. You do this on a summer day and you pressure wash the entire bottom, scrape off any built up rust, dry with compressed air and maybe let sit for a day or two, dry again and then undercoat. If there’s no moisture to trap then you will prevent future rust or slow and maybe stop the current accumulation of wear. You don’t undercoat 15 minutes after you wash it lol
@@sub_second_life3174 its still locking any moisture that is in there in. Salty water from all the salt used in NY during the winter month's seeps into everything by natural chemical reaction.
ANY small cracks or "oops I missed a spot" and that salt water is gonna eat the metal alive. It has no place to go, its trapped. Worst of all you'll never see it and think everything is okay.
There are other products out there I would suggest. One being Fluid Film. You could probably use the blower in this video to do the work for you as well.
If anything, before you decide, do a search on here for the dangers of rubber based under coatings and see what alternatives there are. You may be suprised by what you find. Just my 2 cents. Well... that was more like a quarter but hey, you probably didnt read this far anyway -✌😆
have you seen Eric.O videos on south main auto? ruclips.net/video/nXvl9nt57Kg/видео.html
Hmmm... I've been told that undercoating isn't great because it can mask rust spots that develop from small cracks. Other folks really tout something called fluid film to be applied yearly to protect against rust. They both seem to have pros and cons. I'll have to admit though, the underside of the impala turned out looking real nice.
Fluid film is just kind of an oil like coating it has to be reapplied because it drips away or dries up.
Undercoating can mask rust if you don't prep proper. Which most people don't do. They just spray the undercoat on. In which case the above would be the better option. Especially if you don't pressure wash it first.
You need to be detail orientated with undercoating for it to do it's job proper.
Don’t ever undercoat a vehicle !
Ask any professional any mechanic.
You are 100% correct, it essentially destroys the car, and you sill never get it all off . Not only that if salt gets in , it spreads like wildfire with the moisture.
Idk about you, but all the cars in europe have factory rubberized undercoating. I would like you to try on a piece a sheet metal and let it outdoors to see whats happening. So first make sure the metal is as clean as possible from any rust, stains and oils. Then, scrub everything with fine sandpaper for better grip. After this, apply primer and sand it too after its dry, and eventually, apply the rubberized undercoating 2 times. You will never need to undercoat your car ever again, and it will not cause rust! All its needed its some of your time, attention to details and working clean
If you live in a area that gets salt applied to the roads DO NO DO THIS TO YOUR VEHICLE!! Instead use a product like fluid film!! Watch south main auto channel about rubber undercoating if you don’t believe me it will destroy your vehicles
The acetone didn't turn the plastic gun into a melted gooey mess? That's typically the result when putting acetone on plastic...
You did'nt listen to Walter White
This has got to be the best tool I have seen in quite a long time. I will be adding this to my arsenal of tools and use it as an up-sell to my customers. I wonder if it can handle regular auto paint for those ultra-finicky clients.
after i weld my car i want to do this or get it done! mine is 27 years old
What car is it?
Did a similar project on my 05 Suburban. Used different products, but, I used a rust arrest before and omitted the rust primer.
huge fan, quick question. How do the intricate parts react to the undercoat? (u-joints, parking brake cable) also covering the fuel filter may make a new filter an issue.
Yes, there is a lot more prep work needed I believe.
Just watched a video from a mechanic who refuses to work on cars with rubberized undercoating. Not only does it trap moisture leading to MORE rust, but many of those intricate parts are virtually impossible to work on now.
looks really good.
you could paint the exhaust pipes with high temperature spray, so everything will be black under the car. you can find it at the home depot. really cheap.
i m late 17 minutes to work..
So fucking go
Playback Recordings say it 3 years late lol
Zedd are you still late?? LOL
Probably later everyday
legend says hes still watching this video and has never made it to work...
Great video as always- just a comment around use of acetone to clean components- it's a terrific solvent but it is a plasiticizer meaning the it will eat/solubilize some plastics so makes sure your waste containers can handle the acetone
I find it funny his car is matte/flat black, guessing he gets tired of shining up cars and wanted an easier personal car :P
Can we get an update on this? Would like to see the underneath again after 5 years.
Rotted away in the next year
@@Morzsaszar Exactly i would imagine it probably has holes in it by now, how could they think spraying rubber over rust is a good idea?
Always LOVE your videos Larry! Keep up the amazing work. This what i was looking for!!! Wish i could like the video a hundred times! Merry Christmas! :D
Do research on your undercoatings, Krown rust control is the best. I'm trying to save you money and a car you might really like. cheers
Looking a new Subaru WRX. Subaru recommends against undercoating. Not sure why. Do you have any insight as to why they would say that?
are you still doing stuff with drive?
+Cissies Not sure yet.
+AMMO NYC You don't need them
+Cissies forget drive, i don't even know who they are, but forget them.
whats the condition of car now 7 years later 2022 now
This guy has no clue. First take all the surfaces to be undercoated down to bare metal with a sand blaster. It will continue to rust under the undercoating.
No, if you oil down a chassis, the oil will actually hold better if there's a bit of rust (not huge flakes...I mean "surface rust.") I'm NOT talking about "rubberized undercoating/glorified bed liner"; I'm talking about oil coating, or something akin to the "cosmoline" treatment the military gives machinery shipped across the ocean.
metal rusts when oxidizing oxidizing means when the metal comes into contact with oxygen
if covered properly that rust should stop oxidizing therefor rust not spreading
Need to sand it and then apply ospho to stop the rusting process - THEN paint. O2 will be able to get through these coatings, so the rusting process will continue (the coatings only serve to stop water and salt, which encourage the reaction. Once the bare metal is exposed, it will continue to rust even when coated. Ospho bonds to the exposed iron which prevents the O2 from rusting the metal - thus stopping the rusting process
Have you actually read what Rustoleum primer dose to rust.
Its amazing when people don’t even know what rust is lol
Dont they sell Waxoil over there? Spray on switches all you want no problem,self sealing if chipped no fancy applicators needed.
if it doesnt drip, it doesnt work. krown or bust
A normal underbody coating won't help stop rust and in some cases will expedient it. If any access to the inside of the coating is present it will have moisture get back there and it will rust behind the coating. I just went through this with my vehicle. It came with a coating already on it then I noticed rust starting to bleed though the coating so I removed it and found a lot of rust behind the coating so I ended up prepping the surface and por15 the entire frame.
Overall I like this video with one exception: doesn't coating the driveshaft cause it to be out of balance? I thought you coated the driveshaft.
Then wouldn't the logic hold that when the drive shaft rusted and metal flakes fell off, the drive shaft would then 'be out of balance'
Tom Gavin undercoating is way thicker than paint it will add vibration don't spray your driveshaft
I would have never known he had an Impala SS😂. I love the LT1 engined impalas, they look incredible and can be converted to manual 💜
Junk it, get one from out west and undercoat it b4 the metal has absorbed the salt. I live in the far north, way more salt here, I know of what I speak!
CORVAIRWILD he is doing this because the car has sentimental value to him
fluid film works great
If he didn't have this car then he wouldn't have been able to make this video to show us this awesome product. Your welcome for bringing you back to reality
Product is junk
Ok, you gunna buy it for him?
I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND putting on some rust stop ( many good products out there ) on any rusted areas and letting it dry overnight before you apply this stuff.
The first light layer is a rust stop. Thanks for watching!
This type of product is nothing more than a cosmetic cover up. Any undercoating that cures/dry hard will eventually crack/chip away. These areas will hold moisture and other contaminants that will speed up oxidation.
I had no idea you owned a b-body Impala SS. I own a 94 and have always been a huge fan of b-bodies. That's awesome.
this video was so oddly satisfiying to watch
If you didn't get down to clean bare metal, all you did was make it look pretty. The corrosion was not properly treated.
It’s mind boggling that you’re encouraging people to do this.
How so?
Terrible thing to do look into it. The moisture gets trapped and makes vehicles rust out even quicker. Also a lot of important components get coated over making them even harder to work on. Look up Eric the car guy under costing vehicle. Truck with 55k miles completely trashed because of this stuff. Don’t do it.
@@Carnius797 Damn. Well looks like I gotta find a better undercoating method then 😂 Any suggestions?
@@Totemparadox fluid film
Turn and RUN if someone tells you to use rubberized undercoating on your car!!! It'll trap moisture and rot away!
It will still rust out..., from inside out......lol......😂🤣😂
This video is 5 years old so that car is probably rotted now lol
@@justjoshin5140
🤣
I run a hotrod shop and we raptor line interior and undercarriage on almost all restorations. For real coverage you need a hopper gun and about a gallon of product for the bottom.wrap a curtain around the car and properly mask it off cause that stuff goes everywhere. Just a tip. Last coat use circular patterns to blend the finish then unmask before the hardline bridges.
Goddamn, all that rust dust from wire brushing. I would've sneezed non-stop and my nose leak like a faucet.
I know right! Me 2
Something that nobody else but me does(but I can say it works!) is using spray in bed liner as undercoat. It's very thick, and very tough. Won't chip and scratch when rocks, salt and general toad debris hit it. I personally do 5 full coats, and when it dries, I do one coat of fluid film, which is an oily rust-inhibitor and lubricant. Is it overkill? Absolutely, but I'll be damned if it doesn't prevent your frame from rusting... forever.
you should have taken the exhaust off, and raising the car a touch more would have saved you from any head bumps and sticky hair moments. when cleaning the rust off a mask at least is a must
this is interesting because i was told long time ago i was told that if a car has not been undercoated within its first year that its pointless and ineffective because the metal damage under the fresh layer of undercoating will continue to rust
"how to undercoat your car"
You don't.
As someone who undercoats cars for a living I'd recommend not wearing a particle dust mask when undercoating. You need to wear a respirator with the proper cartridges on it. Awesome machine though and cool video. Love your vids Larry.
This would destroy your car if only you have traces of rust under it. And you do.
@AYE OK SURE agreed, that car will be completely rusted out in 2 years, that just put the nail in the coffin
I get spectacular results with the can. Can I get the same result with the spray? I see a lot of dot spray from your gun
you look so similar to linus tech tips
Hi, after 8 yearss, how did it work? Any new opinions on undercoatings? Thank you sir!
PROTECT YOUR LUNGS!!! AND GOGGLES NOT SAFETY GLASSES.
There american so they say things wrong, you must be European :)
This channel is like Linus tech tips but for cars
Pointless as the rust always starts the places you can not see.
That's right, that's why Krown rust control is the best.
Great show... I always enjoy the camera angles and just overall attention to detail 👍
thanks for watching!