The very most important thing at resin printing is, that you don't create a suction cup. if you have a closed ring of material, the resin can't escape anywhere and it will suck your model from the build plate. That's why angling the model is recommended.
Clear resins are dramatically more finnicky and prone to weird dimensional issues as the clear resin allows a lot more "bleed" of the UV which is why you're getting that curing where the supports were too close to the base of the item. You might also have your exposure times too high, clear resin is especially susceptible to excessive exposure!
Theyre good for exposing pcbs as well haha. I keep putting them in my cart but i havent used my new fdm in over a month except to test it. Petg is good filament for clairity in fdm. It's no resin though. Print the walls at 100 percent then wet sand it. I hear it can be as clear as glass.
Maybe go for a 2 part design, where you use FDM for the frame, and SLA for the lense. The 2 parts can snap together. It also allows for easy fine running of the distance of the lense.
For a 2 part design, you would be better off just buying a fresnel lens. A cheap, commercially made lens will work much better than anything you could print.
Try to print sideways and inclined. On the plate you will get the side parts at 45°. Sure supports will be necessary for the sides, but as they are not the optical part, maybe ok. The lens itself will grow in Z without supports. For the little screw tabs, maybe a chamfer is better to avoid further supports.
I've been looking for a good way to 3d print button/switch covers for audio equipment I repair and now, thanks to your video, I've found it. I have a 3d printer but it lacks the fine detail required for such small items. I bought the two items along with resin from the affiliate link (great sale price!). I'm looking forward to having a good method of creating smaller items, (once the learning curve is complete of course). Many thanks!
A note with resin printers for anyone (same for fdm, but slightly less so): Always keep the area incredibly well vented. The VOCs etc emitted from the resin are significantly horrible. The resin itself are not a nice set of chemicals either so. VOCs from FDM are also not great, but less so.
The very most important thing at resin printing is, that you don't create a suction cup. if you have a closed ring of material, the resin can't escape anywhere and it will suck your model from the build plate. That's why angling the model is recommended.
Clear resins are dramatically more finnicky and prone to weird dimensional issues as the clear resin allows a lot more "bleed" of the UV which is why you're getting that curing where the supports were too close to the base of the item. You might also have your exposure times too high, clear resin is especially susceptible to excessive exposure!
Theyre good for exposing pcbs as well haha. I keep putting them in my cart but i havent used my new fdm in over a month except to test it.
Petg is good filament for clairity in fdm. It's no resin though. Print the walls at 100 percent then wet sand it. I hear it can be as clear as glass.
Didn't even think about pcbs, that's a great idea
5:50: I noticed the air bubbles in the poured resin and thought maybe the presence of those during printing might impede print quality(?)
Came here to say the same.
Maybe go for a 2 part design, where you use FDM for the frame, and SLA for the lense. The 2 parts can snap together. It also allows for easy fine running of the distance of the lense.
For a 2 part design, you would be better off just buying a fresnel lens. A cheap, commercially made lens will work much better than anything you could print.
Try to print sideways and inclined. On the plate you will get the side parts at 45°. Sure supports will be necessary for the sides, but as they are not the optical part, maybe ok. The lens itself will grow in Z without supports.
For the little screw tabs, maybe a chamfer is better to avoid further supports.
I've been looking for a good way to 3d print button/switch covers for audio equipment I repair and now, thanks to your video, I've found it. I have a 3d printer but it lacks the fine detail required for such small items. I bought the two items along with resin from the affiliate link (great sale price!). I'm looking forward to having a good method of creating smaller items, (once the learning curve is complete of course). Many thanks!
Use the printer to make a mold. Then cast the actual lens in optical grade resin. You can use putty or whatever to make the 3D print smooth and such.
A note with resin printers for anyone (same for fdm, but slightly less so):
Always keep the area incredibly well vented. The VOCs etc emitted from the resin are significantly horrible. The resin itself are not a nice set of chemicals either so.
VOCs from FDM are also not great, but less so.
The clear resin seems pretty good in this respect. The grey was extremely smelly, but no odour when the lid is on
@@sdgelectronicsjust because you can't smell it doesn't mean it's not harmful.
Yeah i wouldnt want this around a young child.
They will get yellowed & uv damaged very quickly
That printer is so cheap! Omg.
Maybe its better to 3d-print a "plug" to make a silicone mold form from, and then cast clear acrylic in the mold form.
Not that easy it seems
ruclips.net/video/RGgJGWuA4qE/видео.htmlsi=bcl9EB7MOt4Q-FDr
my printer keeps grinding against the screen when i press homing for the first time do you have any idea how to solve that?
See if qidi will send you an x-plus 3. Its an amazing printer with a heater
Looks great kit. I quite fancy a one of those. Thanks for showing us them.
how bad is the smell from printing and cleaning? It looks like a great system for the clear resin. Thanks for the video 2x👍
The clear resin was almost odourless. The grey esun resin was quite smelly - like the odour you get from cutting acrylic
I see you have some books about various electronic topics. what ones have you liked the most?
Some of the old analogue electronics books are the best
Do you think that it might work better if you printed flat panels and then glued them together afterwards? No supports needed that way.
Wow ! great price and build quality looks good, not that I know anything at all about this.....cheers !