Switch Your Switch! Change From Auto Bed Level Back To Adjustable Z End Stop (Creality, ANET, etc.)
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- In this video I will show you how to change your 3D printer back from a problematic auto bed leveling (ABL) system to the reliable mechanical end stop switch.
It isn't much work and requires you to only identify the GND and trigger wire from your auto bed leveling sensor. You should use a multimeter to confirm the process by which your printer "sees" the signal from your sensor. In most cases the trigger / signal pin normally sits at 3.3V or 5V and is pulled to GND when the sensor is tripped. You can then use a mechanical end stop switch to do the same by wiring the signal pin and a GND wire to the NO (normally open) pins on the end stop. When the mechanical end stop is triggered, the signal pin will then be connected to GND and perform the same function as the auto bed level sensor.
I used the Creality Y-Axis switch that can be found at the link below. It comes with a mounting plate and you simply use a M3 T-slot nut to attach the limit switch to the front of the X gantry profile. If you need the part check the link below. As an Amazon associate I may make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).
► amzn.to/3z9Vo1y
I designed an adjustable bumper for the end stop switch that mounts to the vertical profile. You can find those parts here:
► www.prusaprint...
You will need a few M3 screws (10mm and 20mm length) and some M3 T-slot nuts to assemble and mount the adjustable bumper.
This process and system should work on a variety of printer types such as Creality, ANET, Tevo, Alfawise, Geeetech, Raiscube, Sainsmart, etc.
If you guys have any questions, please put them in the comment section down below, I will try and help everyone out!
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Thanks for this! I had immense unreliability with my ET4 so I mounted a microswitch to the left upright as the end stop (same principle as your video just in reverse). I use MatterControl which has manual mesh bed levelling so now I have a printer that is consistent and still has mesh bed levelling via slicer software. So mechanical end stop for the win! Thank you Sir!
Thanks! I've never used MatterControl, sounds really interesting. So do you use like a feeler guage or something at different spots and manually enter the values into MatterControl?
@@EmbraceMaking, that's pretty much it. I use a 0.1mm feeler guage with 3x3 mesh. It moves the extruder to each point and starts at Z:10mm and you move down in 1mm steps, then adjust in 0.1mm steps and then fine adjustment of 0.02mm (ruclips.net/video/-ha7SqUErgg/видео.html).
Mattercontrol is a really great slicer and design tool.that has a lot of useful features but most just use Cura/Prusa Slicer and never try anything else which is a shame.
Thank you for this! Been going crazy with the CR10S Pro and auto leveling. This fixed it for me.
Glad it helped! Sometimes the auto leveling is more trouble than its worth...
Mesh leveling made a day and night difference for me. Using it manually or using a BLTouch, both are super effective.
The mesh levelling algorithms have improved a lot and are now super effective. This video is still relevant in some circumstances where the probe is broken or faulty and it's just easier to change to a limit switch while you're waiting for parts to come in or something.
This is a pretty cool solution! I like how this makes it easier if you change out hotends of differing heights to adjust the nozzle to bed distance without messing with the leveling knobs.
I'm curious what the default sensing distance of the stock proximity sensor is to detect the aluminum bed through the glass plate? Maybe it's not adequate for this setup. I like mechanical sensors better too. 👍
Glad you like it! That is a good idea with different hot ends. I can't remember the detection range on those proximity sensors, but the sensitivity / distance can usually be adjusted with the little trim pot style screw on top of the sensor. Mine would frequently fail and I got tired of it.
Thanks for this video saved me from throwing out this et5x the heck with the stock ABL sensor I rather have a micro switch.
Great to hear!
Nice simple video on how to do it. Thank you good sir :D.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
I have an ET5 and have the exact same problem. Even bought a new sensor, got a little bit better but still rams the nozzle into the glassplate when homing. Now I have bought a limit switch that is waiting to be mounted and as luck would have it, I stumbled upon your video. Thankyou for a simple solution and good video. With a little luck I can soon use my ET5.
Glad it could help! It's too bad these printers have these issues, they print really nice otherwise. Now that my z limit switch is fixed I've got some really nice prints in a new video coming soon :)
have you been repaired it? i had the same problem
@@huypham-cq2dw No, not yet, bought the parts though.
You're a hero
Very generous of you!
@@EmbraceMaking could you also add in the file for the plate that mounts the limit switch to the gantry. I can't find a file for that on thingiverse. The one you used is currently sold out.
I'm new to this subject, but if you trust the microswitch to be reliable, why wouldn't you put it in place of the proximity sensor, next to the extruder, so that you could still do mesh levelling if you wanted to? By definition, a mechanical switch has to touch the bed before it switches, so it must be at least 0.2mm lower than the extruder. So I suppose it would have to be moved up before printing but this is surely less tedious than having to do mesh levelling with feeler gauges. Does this make sense?
It makes sense, but you would have to move it up as you said. You would need to control it... which would then essentially just become a BLtouch module. So you might as well just install BLtouch at that point rather than use a switch!
justo el video que necesitaba, gracias por los stl files.
thank you so much I was about to throw mine away
Glad it could be saved!
very cool design, and excellent video. I aquired one of these ET5 printers recently and it too has a lot of difficulty with it's proximity sensor. I would have to spend 20 minutes or more just to get it to zero properly after hitting the bed a few times.... ugh.... This will be much better. :) The only change i will make is i would but a slot in the bumper to slide a nut in place to line up with the M3 screw, and use that to raise and lower the bumber. (only because I forgot to order those little screw thingies you melt into the bumper... :) excellent design. :) I will share any change I make. P.S. I shop at DigitMakers as well Cheers.
Thanks! Yes that proximity sensor becomes a real pain to deal with... the reason I went with the heat fitting vs. a nut is that the press fitting will never move. I was concerned that a nut in a slot might work itself slightly loose after repeated presses and then you would have some inconsistency to deal with. If you remix the file for use with a nut please post up the remix on printables :) thanks!
@@EmbraceMaking I purchased a 3 pack of limit switches on the small black pcboard, same as the ones you have, but I'm wondering how do you have it mounted to the X-axis? looks like some kind of little board behind the pcboard of the limit switch, with hole to bolt it to the x axis via tnut. is there an stl for that?, I dont see a file.
Question, I got a printer upgraded with one of these also, in reverting it, did you have to update the firmware to stop using the auto sensor or did you just leave it unplugged? I know you lose the auto bed level feature, but is it still in your firmware as a option? (Just doesn't work)
Correct, I didn't update my firmware. So when the z axis homes, it still moves the print head to the middle of the bed as if it had the autobed level sensor. As you stated, of course it doesn't autobed level because the sensor is unplugged.
Nice! One question regarding cabling - here I can see you use S (signal) ang G (ground). On my CR10 v3 I see endstops are using S and V (voltage). Is there any difference if I choose to use V or G?
When replacing the proximity sensor with a switch end stop, do I need to only use two wires (signal pin and ground pin) or can I use a wire using all three pins?
be careful as the third pin as 24 volts on it (on the ET5). you really only want to connect to grnd and signal. :)
The 24V pin will not be used. In the case of the proximity sensor it was being used to power the sensor. In the microswitch configuration it does not need 24V power. You don't need it.
So when I plug the Z wire into the limit switch, it doesn't work. The nozzle when homing Z just goes up 5mm from where ever it is. On CR10S is there a leveling wire to unplug from the board? I don't see one when I open the box. The TH3D mini power box uses the stock Z wire from the motherboard.
So you only have a single wire plugged into the limit switch? What kind of auto bed level sensor did you have on your machine? A proximity style like mine or some kind of BLtouch? I'm not familiar with the TH3D mini power box so I'm not sure what that is doing... like I show in the video, machines that use the proximity style sensor should have 3 wires... the 24V power wire which you will not need. The other two are just 3.3V (usually... maybe in some cases 5V) and the other is GND. Essentially the autobed level sensor is doing the exact same thing as a limit switch whereby it is shorting the two and driving the output low to GND when it gets tripped. So on your limit switch you need to use those two wires to do the same thing. Perhaps you have yours wired in the wrong position on your limit switch... because if your machine goes up 5mm and stops, it sounds like its trying to start the leveling procedure but gets the signal right away that it has reached the home position when it starts looking for that signal.
nice bro
Thanks :)
Thank you for this video! I have one question, where do I find the file to print the 'spacer', mounted on the X axis gantry, that the limit switch pc board mounts to?
i can confirm this also works on the shitty labist et4 no more funky Auto level crap
Thanks for confirming!
@@EmbraceMaking The only thing that was missing in the print was the square block that mounts to the z switch on the chassis. You never added that in, BTW. I had to go hunting for that. I mean, I'm not trying to be like a pain here, but if you ever messed with a labist, it's a royal pain in the axx, and it's because of the auto leveling. It auto-levels like it's drunk. If you could add that square block, that would be great because if they need someone to print them this or even if they are trying it themselves, they are doing this upgrade because of a reason they would prefer to just print the four things and be done with it. because, like me, I'm a noob when it comes to printing, and this printer is hell, so I'm fighting uphill with this matter. I'm just glad my brother also has an ender, but some people may not be as lucky as me.
where did you find that square block mount? Do you have a link? I have all the rest of the parts and really haven't tried my hand a designing parts yet. I too have the labists et4.
@@lawrence1986ify
I just have one question. What is that black piece of plastic you have the limit switch mounted on?
That came with the limit switch. Check out the video description links where I link to the limit switch. It is a Creality Y stop limit switch replacement part
@@EmbraceMaking Thanks :D
@@EmbraceMaking I checked the digitmakers site, and it only shows the limit switch board with switch and JST connector.... i dont see the part in behind. :( I may just 3d print one. :)
On My anet et 5 pro, z axis doesn't stop coming down even with this solution(microswitch) is this a main board issue? Sry I also messaged you on Instagram then i realised maybe its better to ask it here
Could be a mainboard issue. Might want to double check at the board itself... if you have a multimeter, check to see at the board if the 5V pin gets pulled to GND when you press the limit switch. Maybe there is a problem with a broken wire or something in the harness.
Any chance you have a link to that tool holder at the top?
I can't seem to find the exact one anymore, but this is pretty close / almost identical: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629915
@@EmbraceMaking Thank you very much. I printed out your parts for the limit switch tonight, everything came out so well. This is a really well designed project.
Where link for mounting switch sir
What do you mean? See the video description for links to the parts and if you need an extra switch there is a link in there too
@@EmbraceMaking just 3 part, doesn't see mounting switch
Would this also work for a Wanhao I3 Plus.
{this model does not have the Z Limit switch connector on the motherboard}
Yes I don't see why it wouldn't work. My 3d model for the bumper doesn't look like it will fit since the wanhao doesnt have the extrusion profile, so you would need to resolve that, however, in terms of wiring it should work. Take your multimeter and test the pins on your motherboard for your ABL sensor. One of them will likely be 24V... you won't use that. The other two are just the signal and GND and those are the ones you would use for the new limit switch.
i dont know if you can call mesh leveling on desktop printers a gimmick, yes the print sizes are small but when the +/- 0.20mm can be the difference in a good first layer adhesion and none at all and with the inconsistency of heated platforms coming out of china its kind of a no brainer. all end stops should be a mechanical or optical switch. and you can pick your poison on bed mesh leveling the key is find consistency across your chosen methods JMHO
Perhaps for materials who seem to be very picky with first layer adhesion. However, with PLA I've never found this to be problematic. It is very forgiving in terms of first layer adhesion and distance from the build platform. The statement I made was purely opinion, maybe I've just had good luck with all of my build platforms being reasonably flat, but I suspect mine are not close to perfect since they are all fairly cheap machines.