Tired of getting those blurry pictures so now I set both aperture and shutter then float the ISO which is virtually inconsequential for street. But I don’t always want to freeze action so don’t want to rely on the camera for shutter. Thanks.
I use 1/400s usually, but 1/500s is good too -- a camera or two I have doesn't have the 1/400s option. I tap on the back of the screen the area I will most likely have the subject fall into in the photo, using autofocusing. I can then change up the depth of the image pretty quickly. I am most using MFT and FF cameras. With the MFT most all setting have great depth, except when up close, of course. I try to avoid beyond f8 for diffraction issues. With the FF camera I start with f4 or f5.6 depending on how bright it is outside, and the lens sweet spot. To isolate, the f2.8 to f3.5 is good -- rarely opening up more. I use light compensation dial setting of +1/3 facing the light, to +2/3 -- rarely more. With the light - 1/3 or more, but not all the time. With the MFT camera, I try not to let the image get too dark. With my Nikon Z5 that is not a real issue. I still do adjust however. If a lens is tighter than 50mm, I can see going the f8 to f11 range with a FF camera. With MFT lens of say 45mm you really, unless up close, do fine with f5.6 +/-. The f2 to 3.5 might show less depth, but then again if using an equivalent 90mm you are likely wanting the emphasize the subject more anyway - f4 to 5.6 is safer though. I assume, on the street with a FF, and tight lens, you go f8 to f14. Personally don't use FF long lenses on the street. Thanks for all your videos, Loren
Ive set my sony on Aperture Priority, with a min shutter speed of 1/500. I rather have a high ISO than motion blur, but I also want a higher shutter speed if the available light permits it. It took some digging through settings to configure it that way. I can now safely use A-mode at all times and just control my aperture. I only need to take a look at my ISO/SS to see what the camera is doing. Before I had a lot of issue with the scene being too bright or shutter speed too low.
@@mko7680 On my A7RV is it "ISO AUTO Min. SS", under "Exposure/Color" > "[1] Exposure" > (4th option) The first option is STD, Fast, Faster etc, but I can scroll down to select a minimum shutter speed. I've added the option to my Fn menu.
Great video, as always.. Since I don't have a good ND filter, I lower the ISO to 50. This helps me in bright days & when the shutter speed wants something slower than 1/8000. I also sometimes use the Fv mode, Canon's Flexible Priority Mode, which allows me to set the aperture and/or shutter and/or ISO and/or Exposure compensation.
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Tired of getting those blurry pictures so now I set both aperture and shutter then float the ISO which is virtually inconsequential for street. But I don’t always want to freeze action so don’t want to rely on the camera for shutter. Thanks.
I like the red dot on your Fuji. 😊
This could attract pickpockets 😊
I use 1/400s usually, but 1/500s is good too -- a camera or two I have doesn't have the 1/400s option. I tap on the back of the screen the area I will most likely have the subject fall into in the photo, using autofocusing. I can then change up the depth of the image pretty quickly. I am most using MFT and FF cameras. With the MFT most all setting have great depth, except when up close, of course. I try to avoid beyond f8 for diffraction issues. With the FF camera I start with f4 or f5.6 depending on how bright it is outside, and the lens sweet spot. To isolate, the f2.8 to f3.5 is good -- rarely opening up more. I use light compensation dial setting of +1/3 facing the light, to +2/3 -- rarely more. With the light - 1/3 or more, but not all the time. With the MFT camera, I try not to let the image get too dark. With my Nikon Z5 that is not a real issue. I still do adjust however. If a lens is tighter than 50mm, I can see going the f8 to f11 range with a FF camera. With MFT lens of say 45mm you really, unless up close, do fine with f5.6 +/-. The f2 to 3.5 might show less depth, but then again if using an equivalent 90mm you are likely wanting the emphasize the subject more anyway - f4 to 5.6 is safer though. I assume, on the street with a FF, and tight lens, you go f8 to f14. Personally don't use FF long lenses on the street. Thanks for all your videos, Loren
Shoot manual with an ND Filter, you'll have more control over your aperture while maintaining your set shutter speed.
Ive set my sony on Aperture Priority, with a min shutter speed of 1/500. I rather have a high ISO than motion blur, but I also want a higher shutter speed if the available light permits it. It took some digging through settings to configure it that way.
I can now safely use A-mode at all times and just control my aperture. I only need to take a look at my ISO/SS to see what the camera is doing. Before I had a lot of issue with the scene being too bright or shutter speed too low.
where do you set the min shutter speed for Aperture Priority? I only can choose fast (1/160), medium etc on my A7CII
@@mko7680 On my A7RV is it "ISO AUTO Min. SS", under "Exposure/Color" > "[1] Exposure" > (4th option)
The first option is STD, Fast, Faster etc, but I can scroll down to select a minimum shutter speed.
I've added the option to my Fn menu.
For street photography I use aperture priority mode and manual for the Motion Blur technique👋
Great approach! 👍
Genau
Great video, as always.. Since I don't have a good ND filter, I lower the ISO to 50. This helps me in bright days & when the shutter speed wants something slower than 1/8000.
I also sometimes use the Fv mode, Canon's Flexible Priority Mode, which allows me to set the aperture and/or shutter and/or ISO and/or Exposure compensation.
Ooops.. I meant faster than 1/8000 😅
Man, I miss my X-T4 :/
Clean lenses and kit helps too (2:55)
I ran into a photographer this weekend and his lens looked like it was coated in swamp water. I couldn't believe it.
😁 You are right😁 "Natural grain" 😆
This video should come with a warning for those of us with OCD!!! 🤢
P mode, easy to scroll to the aperture:shutter speed to suit the subject. Dark glasses facing the camera is a bad technique, looks terrible.
Irgendwann kleb ich mir noch nen grünen(recycle) Punkt auf die mp 😇
Leicain't :D