The absolutely key factor to know is how exposure works - any camera always pulls the average exposure (or spot, or whatever mode you’re in) to middle grey - 18% grey… so, in a bright environment, you’ll need positive (pull in more light) compensation, to have the camera pull in more light to make things white. In dark environments, the exposure will be pulled up toward 18%, so to keep things dark (not advised in raw shooting), you’ll need negative compensation. I almost never shoot using negative compensation, because the best output quality of any sensor, when shooting raw, is from the middle of the histogram to the right ( from 50% grey to 100% white). This is commonly called “expose to the right”… done when shooting in raw, prepared to do editing afterwards to achieve a bright, dark or whatever exposure you please
Perhaps if you’re using Leica only or the zone focus system, using manual exposure works. But I’m using Fuji cameras and I can shoot in auto exposure and just change the exposure compensation when needed. Makes for much easier exposures! I rarely have to do too much adjusting, but mostly protecting clipping on the highlights!
Gareth: thanks for the video, very useful. A quick tip regarding Fuji cameras. On your exposure compensation dial if you choose C you can adjust the compensation with the front wheel while using AP mode. Much, much faster than manual mode or using the dial.
Ace, i've got a Q2 and forgot about that button/wheel. Found out can use it to change the ISO on the fly too. Learn something every day. Thanks for the info. Noticed you don't have the thumb grip on the Q2 (slots into the hot-shoe), i found this a game changer, makes it so much more comfortable and steady in the hand the best accessory for the Q2/Q3 and should be in the box with the camera
I use WB set to 5500k and spot metering if the light allows. I keep an eye on the histogram and, up until your video today, have tended to adjust the aperture to keep the highlights. I will now try using the EC dial instead 🤞I have an XT5 btw 🤩
When it comes to photos I always shoot in full manual mode which makes the exposure an unknown dial. Even when shooting video i use a var ND filter. Just gotten very lazy when it comes to utilizing the Exp. Dial. Its very handy though when used properly.
I shoot in manual mode but with auto ISO. I do that so I can be in control of the shutter speed and aperture. I do use exposure compensation some times. I shoot with a z6 II for street photography. The exposure comp may also work in complete manual mode on that camera if I'm not mistaken. I'm not sure which setting it may adjust.
Nikon's Matrix metering, introduced as "Automatic Multi-Pattern" (AMP) metering in the FA camera in 1983, was the world's first meter that actually measured exposure, instead of just light. It is one of the most important advances in photographic technology. This meter knows how to make white snow or sand look white, instead of a conventional light meter's making everything look medium 18% gray. It applies the zone system automatically to attempt to render a correct exposure under difficult and contrasty situations. One reason to shoot Nikon over other manufacturers.
0:43 That camera has auto focus. Also dont wait to adjust settings as you're taking the photo if you're on manual. 2:07 exposure compensation is terrible. Especially if you're shooting a rangefinder like me. If you understand exposure you dont need exposure compensation. You dont "hopefully" have to hope for the camera to do something. You shoot precisely. Also there is no such thing as ISO invariant. Not really. No camera sensor is truly invariant. Even the best sensors will show some differences, typically in noise levels or dynamic range, when the ISO is changed either in-camera or during post-processing. 8:31 the reason this is so hard to listen to and so complicated is because you’re on auto. If you want auto then leave it on auto. If your camera is truly iso invariant as you say then don’t worry about it. In this case just expose for the light and leave your settings there. No need to guess with exposure compensation.
Points made. Wouldn’t metering mode be a factor regarding the camera’s accuracy in evaluating exposure for a scene? What metering mode do you use, matrix, averaging, spot?
Sorry mate. Always the widest evaluative option. Area Metrix. I always forget what they’re called as I never change them. Def not spot. I hate that haha
So, if you’re shooting a camera that’s not ISO invariant, does it make more sense to bracket like crazy in high dynamic range situations? I’ve found myself whipping out the iPhone in many situations to take a reference shot of what the scene really looked like. As my Canons simply don’t have the same mindless point-and-shoot color or exposure accuracy as the iPhone does. But I can obviously push and pull the .CR3 RAW files WAAAYYY more than my iPhone’s RAW files later on in LR.
youd be surprised what the iphones raws can do.. watch my iphone vs nikon z7 vid mate! id never bracket a street shot.. everything's moving! if your subject is exposed correctly, it doesnt matter if the skys blown in street photography
Goodness. Reading the comments I’m amazed at how few know about Ec. I shoot with Fuji 100s, 50r, XH1, XT1, and Leica Q2. I don’t think I can work without EC
Good God, you spend all that money to get a camera that doesn't tell you where the EC is set. My older Fuji X100F will tell me at a glance even with the camera off, check the dial, good to go.
I agree. It forces me to keep my eye on the viewfinder for exp comp. Sony doesn’t label the dial because you have the option to assign a different function to that dial.
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The absolutely key factor to know is how exposure works - any camera always pulls the average exposure (or spot, or whatever mode you’re in) to middle grey - 18% grey… so, in a bright environment, you’ll need positive (pull in more light) compensation, to have the camera pull in more light to make things white. In dark environments, the exposure will be pulled up toward 18%, so to keep things dark (not advised in raw shooting), you’ll need negative compensation. I almost never shoot using negative compensation, because the best output quality of any sensor, when shooting raw, is from the middle of the histogram to the right ( from 50% grey to 100% white). This is commonly called “expose to the right”… done when shooting in raw, prepared to do editing afterwards to achieve a bright, dark or whatever exposure you please
Perhaps if you’re using Leica only or the zone focus system, using manual exposure works. But I’m using Fuji cameras and I can shoot in auto exposure and just change the exposure compensation when needed. Makes for much easier exposures! I rarely have to do too much adjusting, but mostly protecting clipping on the highlights!
Just discovered your channel. I must say it’s one of the best street photography channels I’ve seen. Well done 💯👍🏼
At thanks mate. Hugely appreciated 😁
So enjoyable and informative Gareth I look forward to your posts have a great day matey.
Excellent video, solid information that I haven't seen anyone discuss to this level, well done 👍🏻
Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it 😁
Thanks, this is where I have been going wrong with urban photography (can’t cope with people!).
It’s obvious when you know the answer…
Enjoyed this video. The magazine looks interesting. Do you have a sample few pages?
Thanks mate. There’s a few screen shots in the website page mate. Hope you enjoy it. Thanks
Gareth: thanks for the video, very useful. A quick tip regarding Fuji cameras. On your exposure compensation dial if you choose C you can adjust the compensation with the front wheel while using AP mode. Much, much faster than manual mode or using the dial.
Yes I’m aware of that option. But again you can’t see your setting when the camera is off.
Ace, i've got a Q2 and forgot about that button/wheel. Found out can use it to change the ISO on the fly too. Learn something every day. Thanks for the info. Noticed you don't have the thumb grip on the Q2 (slots into the hot-shoe), i found this a game changer, makes it so much more comfortable and steady in the hand the best accessory for the Q2/Q3 and should be in the box with the camera
thanks mate.. if tried the thumb grip.. wasnt a fan haha
I use WB set to 5500k and spot metering if the light allows. I keep an eye on the histogram and, up until your video today, have tended to adjust the aperture to keep the highlights. I will now try using the EC dial instead 🤞I have an XT5 btw 🤩
hope it works for you mate.. stick with what you find comfortable buddy
When it comes to photos I always shoot in full manual mode which makes the exposure an unknown dial. Even when shooting video i use a var ND filter. Just gotten very lazy when it comes to utilizing the Exp. Dial. Its very handy though when used properly.
I shoot in manual mode but with auto ISO. I do that so I can be in control of the shutter speed and aperture. I do use exposure compensation some times. I shoot with a z6 II for street photography. The exposure comp may also work in complete manual mode on that camera if I'm not mistaken. I'm not sure which setting it may adjust.
im not sure if theres anything the comp dial can do if your in full manual mate..?
thanks for the comment
Nikon's Matrix metering, introduced as "Automatic Multi-Pattern" (AMP) metering in the FA camera in 1983, was the world's first meter that actually measured exposure, instead of just light. It is one of the most important advances in photographic technology. This meter knows how to make white snow or sand look white, instead of a conventional light meter's making everything look medium 18% gray. It applies the zone system automatically to attempt to render a correct exposure under difficult and contrasty situations. One reason to shoot Nikon over other manufacturers.
did you copy that txt from ken rockwells page lol
@@GarethDanks Yep!
0:43 That camera has auto focus. Also dont wait to adjust settings as you're taking the photo if you're on manual.
2:07 exposure compensation is terrible. Especially if you're shooting a rangefinder like me. If you understand exposure you dont need exposure compensation. You dont "hopefully" have to hope for the camera to do something. You shoot precisely.
Also there is no such thing as ISO invariant. Not really.
No camera sensor is truly invariant. Even the best sensors will show some differences, typically in noise levels or dynamic range, when the ISO is changed either in-camera or during post-processing.
8:31 the reason this is so hard to listen to and so complicated is because you’re on auto. If you want auto then leave it on auto. If your camera is truly iso invariant as you say then don’t worry about it.
In this case just expose for the light and leave your settings there. No need to guess with exposure compensation.
thanks for your comment mate.. interesting to hear your opinion!
great video
Thanks mate
Points made. Wouldn’t metering mode be a factor regarding the camera’s accuracy in evaluating exposure for a scene? What metering mode do you use, matrix, averaging, spot?
Sir, what is your metering mode? Spot, center weighted or someting else? Thank you!
Sorry mate. Always the widest evaluative option. Area Metrix. I always forget what they’re called as I never change them. Def not spot. I hate that haha
So, if you’re shooting a camera that’s not ISO invariant, does it make more sense to bracket like crazy in high dynamic range situations? I’ve found myself whipping out the iPhone in many situations to take a reference shot of what the scene really looked like. As my Canons simply don’t have the same mindless point-and-shoot color or exposure accuracy as the iPhone does. But I can obviously push and pull the .CR3 RAW files WAAAYYY more than my iPhone’s RAW files later on in LR.
youd be surprised what the iphones raws can do.. watch my iphone vs nikon z7 vid mate! id never bracket a street shot.. everything's moving! if your subject is exposed correctly, it doesnt matter if the skys blown in street photography
really useful info Ga, thanks for the content mate..
Cheers mate
Does exposure compensation work in manual on auto iso ?
yes.. itll adjust the iso
Exposure compensation is always something I struggle with, I always get it the wrong way round.
Goodness. Reading the comments I’m amazed at how few know about Ec. I shoot with Fuji 100s, 50r, XH1, XT1, and Leica Q2. I don’t think I can work without EC
it shocks me on workshops too
Wouldn’t spot metering at 9:40 not work much better? No clipped highlights and metering the right thing with EC at 0
ive never got on with spot mate.. perhaps.. i just found it so clunky to use..
Gosh! should have bought a Fuji....oh wait
Good God, you spend all that money to get a camera that doesn't tell you where the EC is set. My older Fuji X100F will tell me at a glance even with the camera off, check the dial, good to go.
They’re all about the aesthetic. The camera is better in full manual
I agree. It forces me to keep my eye on the viewfinder for exp comp. Sony doesn’t label the dial because you have the option to assign a different function to that dial.