It's crazy on how people underestimate how much it helps with suspension noise just by changing the links.. Even me at first I said there is no way it's probably the control arm bushings but I ended up changing the links first and that's all I did. Problem solved and so easy too. 👍
I've been watching a few of your videos, lately bc I bought an 04 Volvo S60 2.4 a couple of months ago! It was a great buy, but as with any used car purchase usually buying someone else's headache! Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for all your Volvo videos! It's helped me tremendously with mine!
I don't have a lift but using a crowbar it's easy to add a little leverage pushing down on the front sway bar to install the links. Not hard at all. Thankfully my car has been in Tennessee it's entire life since it's birth in Sweden so it doesn't have any rusted bolt issues. I bought the Meyle brand front links and it should be noted...there is a hole in the bolt but it is NOT a hex hole nor is it a Torx. It's just a hole.I had to use needle nosed vice grips to hold the metal on the other side while tightening. Still it was easy enough.
What to do if the nuts on the rear sway bar links turn when removing, but aren't being unscrewed by the gun/wrench? I've tried holding the screw in place on the other side, but to no avail. It is fairly rusty, and I've blasted the thing with wd-40 a ton. Is my only way out the Dremel? Or sending the car to a garage lol. 2:20
No discussion about how much torque to apply to the nuts? I've seen other videos where we're told to tighten down until the rubber starts to bulge and then back off. And the links that recently arrived from IPD came with instructions with specific torque recommendations.
The “counter hold T40” does not exist on the Meyle P2SBLKFR3P4 that I purchased from y’all for my 07 XC90. So I’m stuck on how to fully tighten the upper screws on these rods! Need help!
I get a slight clunk noise when going over the smallest of road imperfections. Could this just be these end links or am I looking at replacing the control arms as well?
@@joereeves6862 yes, I did replace stabilizer bar link with lemforder ones, still was having noise, then I did change shock absorber cups and now everything is smooth again ☺️ Maybe you should try directly with shock absorber cups
Have new end links and bushings but haven't replaced them yet, can't find torque specs for my 2012 S60 T5 . Both wheels have to be off the ground to release tension on the bar.
I believe there are at least a couple options: 1) which I’ve seen referenced in the VIDA service manuals, is a spanner-looking torque wrench. It’s an entire tool of its own and, like spanners, I don’t think you can swap sizes on a single wrench of this kind, since it’s not a socket wrench, just a open-backed ratcheting torque wrench/spanner meant specifically for these counter hold situations. Therefore I don’t think that one is worth any consideration, regardless of whether you can even find that tool on the market. (I get tired of buying single-use tools and I’m not about to buy a stinking open-back torque wrench with only one size just for this job and ball joints) 2) a more practical option I think, is a wrench head adapter for socket wrenches. I’ve seen this at the hardware store. So instead of sockets in the kit you have wrench heads that go on, say, a 1/2 inch socket wrench, allowing you that open-backed access for the counter hold. Attach one of those to your torque wrench, and I think that’s the solution to the counter hold torque dilemma.
Personally I just attach a crowfoot to my torque wrench when I’m dealing with a counter hold. There are some RUclips videos that show you how to properly torque a crowfoot.
I'm looking for that answer too. One of the end links was previously on there so I know it should fit. I had to loosen my sway/tortion bar to get to the rear motor mount bolt when replacing the steering rack. I'm now trying to reconnect the end links but they aren't even close to connecting. The sway/tortion bar isn't supposed to move in its bracket/bushing, maybe it moved when loose? (Edit: No, it did not. If it had you'd need a new one). Anyone? In your case, how much too long is it? Do you have one side of the car up, or both?
Felix Acosta what brand of link did you get? Just curious. I purchased moog links and hopefully putting them on tomorrow. Did you ever get them on? Just curious what you did to fix the issue.
@@mikeh8008 Mine is an 02 S60 T5. I also put the trolley jack under the rotor to remove tension from the end link when disconnecting. With the car up in the air the wheels are hanging down as much as they could putting a lot of tension on the end link. I jacked it up until the end-link was loose-ish and then removed it. Not sure if this is normal or not but it seems more safe as long as you don't jack it up so far as to raise the car up with the rotor, and be sure to have the car properly on stands.
I’m a cheapskate and I don’t wanna go out and buy an air gun so I cut it off with a sazsaw lol, And then there was a little bit left that wouldn’t let me get the bolt out so I use my drum on cut it out. But the way this guy did it I think he’s a pro hard I’m just really stupid
It's crazy on how people underestimate how much it helps with suspension noise just by changing the links.. Even me at first I said there is no way it's probably the control arm bushings but I ended up changing the links first and that's all I did. Problem solved and so easy too. 👍
I've been watching a few of your videos, lately bc I bought an 04 Volvo S60 2.4 a couple of months ago! It was a great buy, but as with any used car purchase usually buying someone else's headache! Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for all your Volvo videos! It's helped me tremendously with mine!
Same scenario here too.
Thank you so much!!!
You explain that so good .
I'm not afraid to do it by myself.
You should be a teacher
If you're struggling make sure the entire axle is raised not just the wheel you're working on.
Exactly why I'm looking. I was scratching my wondering why it seemed too long but it was the same time as the one I took off. Thanks!!
Thank you sir 😊
GREAT INFORMATION!!!
THANKS SO MUCH!!!
You did say that this job can be done with hand tools?
You guys have every video I need it’s so awesome
Excellent video. Please consider doing one on a 240.
I don't have a lift but using a crowbar it's easy to add a little leverage pushing down on the front sway bar to install the links. Not hard at all. Thankfully my car has been in Tennessee it's entire life since it's birth in Sweden so it doesn't have any rusted bolt issues. I bought the Meyle brand front links and it should be noted...there is a hole in the bolt but it is NOT a hex hole nor is it a Torx. It's just a hole.I had to use needle nosed vice grips to hold the metal on the other side while tightening. Still it was easy enough.
Hace dos años de tu comentario, disculpa pero mira bien porque es posible que el agujero de Meile sea para una llave exagonal.
What to do if the nuts on the rear sway bar links turn when removing, but aren't being unscrewed by the gun/wrench? I've tried holding the screw in place on the other side, but to no avail. It is fairly rusty, and I've blasted the thing with wd-40 a ton. Is my only way out the Dremel? Or sending the car to a garage lol. 2:20
wd-40 isnt a rust breaker. use pb blaster or similar. Dremel that sh**!
vice grip the ball joint in the links
No discussion about how much torque to apply to the nuts? I've seen other videos where we're told to tighten down until the rubber starts to bulge and then back off. And the links that recently arrived from IPD came with instructions with specific torque recommendations.
So what is the torque?
60 NM to the strut, 70NM to the sway bar
Good info!
Thanks!
How do you know when the links are bad? What are the indicators?
You'll notice clunking and torn ball joint boots.
Went to check mine since I heard a clunking sound and my tires were wearing unevenly. The whole thing is ripped off. Safe to say it's done lol
Mine broke apart.
Subscribed!
Easy thanx!
You're welcome!
How about front sway bar bushings replacement?
its the same easy
The “counter hold T40” does not exist on the Meyle P2SBLKFR3P4 that I purchased from y’all for my 07 XC90. So I’m stuck on how to fully tighten the upper screws on these rods! Need help!
it is a socket bit you need. T40 torx, it attaches to your ratchet nicely. Go to ur local parts store and get the T40 torx
I get a slight clunk noise when going over the smallest of road imperfections. Could this just be these end links or am I looking at replacing the control arms as well?
It could be the end links. Best to jack it up and pull the wheel off to have a look!
or, just replace all the parts on your old car
Had this happening lately in front right wheel, planning to change it first, since everything else looks quite ok
@@MrKoblepotI’m also having this problem did you solve it?
@@joereeves6862 yes, I did replace stabilizer bar link with lemforder ones, still was having noise, then I did change shock absorber cups and now everything is smooth again ☺️
Maybe you should try directly with shock absorber cups
Mines is under tension but only got one wheel raised any help appreciated
Have new end links and bushings but haven't replaced them yet, can't find torque specs for my 2012 S60 T5 . Both wheels have to be off the ground to release tension on the bar.
I can’t even get a socket on the nut, on the strut. It’s too tight a fit.😢
What you end up doing?
How do you torque these to spec with the counter hold in place? Or just tighten them down and then torque with no counter hold? (Seems risky)
I believe there are at least a couple options: 1) which I’ve seen referenced in the VIDA service manuals, is a spanner-looking torque wrench. It’s an entire tool of its own and, like spanners, I don’t think you can swap sizes on a single wrench of this kind, since it’s not a socket wrench, just a open-backed ratcheting torque wrench/spanner meant specifically for these counter hold situations. Therefore I don’t think that one is worth any consideration, regardless of whether you can even find that tool on the market. (I get tired of buying single-use tools and I’m not about to buy a stinking open-back torque wrench with only one size just for this job and ball joints) 2) a more practical option I think, is a wrench head adapter for socket wrenches. I’ve seen this at the hardware store. So instead of sockets in the kit you have wrench heads that go on, say, a 1/2 inch socket wrench, allowing you that open-backed access for the counter hold. Attach one of those to your torque wrench, and I think that’s the solution to the counter hold torque dilemma.
25nmeters
Personally I just attach a crowfoot to my torque wrench when I’m dealing with a counter hold. There are some RUclips videos that show you how to properly torque a crowfoot.
torque to tight
@mrmikebjones . Hiciste la pregunta hace un año, pero te contesto, la parte que va al amortiguador 90 nm, la parte a la barra estabilizadora 60 nm.
Torque does anyone?
Is an alignment necessary after replacing these parts?
Asking for a friend.
An alignment is not needed after replacing sway bar links.
My sway bar link is too long. How can I put it in ?
I'm looking for that answer too. One of the end links was previously on there so I know it should fit. I had to loosen my sway/tortion bar to get to the rear motor mount bolt when replacing the steering rack. I'm now trying to reconnect the end links but they aren't even close to connecting. The sway/tortion bar isn't supposed to move in its bracket/bushing, maybe it moved when loose? (Edit: No, it did not. If it had you'd need a new one). Anyone? In your case, how much too long is it? Do you have one side of the car up, or both?
Felix Acosta what brand of link did you get? Just curious. I purchased moog links and hopefully putting them on tomorrow. Did you ever get them on? Just curious what you did to fix the issue.
I remembered, i had to put a trolley jack under the rotor to raise it all up.
Another Mike what kind of Volvo did you work on? I got a 04 XC 70 2.5T. Really hoping I won’t have to do that on my car
@@mikeh8008 Mine is an 02 S60 T5. I also put the trolley jack under the rotor to remove tension from the end link when disconnecting. With the car up in the air the wheels are hanging down as much as they could putting a lot of tension on the end link. I jacked it up until the end-link was loose-ish and then removed it. Not sure if this is normal or not but it seems more safe as long as you don't jack it up so far as to raise the car up with the rotor, and be sure to have the car properly on stands.
I have a 07 s60 t5 and my car has a loud rattling noise after 60mph,it gets louder the faster the car goes could this be the problem
More than likely a bad CV axle
I’m a cheapskate and I don’t wanna go out and buy an air gun so I cut it off with a sazsaw lol, And then there was a little bit left that wouldn’t let me get the bolt out so I use my drum on cut it out. But the way this guy did it I think he’s a pro hard I’m just really stupid
This video is vague.
lol imagine doing suspension work without a torque wrench.
Pros don't need to imagine my friend