I gotta keep an eye on this guy he has a major future coming... I'm looking forward to a whole line of 240sx light cover replacement cause we all know most of them out there are plain old crap. With the flexibility of a 3D printer can you just imagine. This guy is well educated love his energy
Suggestion: make an LED Screen inside these, like 50 by 30 LEDs, program in certain patterns. A startup sequence running across them saying "Industry Garage" would be sick AF.
For those that don’t understand what he meant by “255”, it’s the value of range the light has. 0 value is off and 255 is full brightness. There’s a ton of videos explaining this and pulse width modulation and how they work together with coding/programming.
I love this. This is why I have my 3D printers. To be able to make stuff like this. I love it. Keep designing stuff like this and push what can be done with 3D printers.
This is the first video I've watched of yours and I just subscribed primarily because of you saying. Don't be afraid of this stuff. I try to explain to people how easy this stuff can be if you just do a little bit of learning. Pwm is the way to go man. Micropdm. Thats where its at for these kind of builds man
These tails are awesome! If you want to simply your wiring and use a module that’s designed for automotive use try using the ghozt light v5 modules. They have all the inputs that you need and you program anyway you want without writing any code.
Longest explanation of how a relay works...EVARRRRR! But it was very thorough for the newb, and I didn't know that's how opto-couplers work, so props to you!
For the Acrylic tubes youre using you can mess around cutting slits into them as well as scuffing. Both will help with light diffusion/refraction. The second thing you want to play with is how close/far you place the leds up to the acrylic tube. Too close and you'll see "hot spots" aka the led dots themselves. Its alot of trial and error but im messing around with it as well on my headlights/taillights. If you want to step the controller/led game up you can look into addressable RGB LEDs and a controller like BlueGhozt that can not only do sequences but can also do different colors in addition to having a phone app
That 3D printing side was quite interesting to me because of I am printing by myself (that's a side thing next along with college) and i am obsessed with that. Little later i might do a project making a DIY printer for myself just to tinker with. I do have a friend who's into that too, so there's healthy comunication going on and knowledge-share between each other.
Working on a 83 GTI Rabbit and one of the tail lights is shattered from a hail storm last year. This has given me some hope to get a part that is no longer available made.
FYI: The Sharp 817X Photo-coupler is being used as a relay. Basically, for the old(er) school car nerds, it effectively replaces something like a Painless Wiring 80xxx relay kit, with something that is digital, possibly quicker, but definitely MUCH more efficient with its use of electrical supply from the car's electrical power generating circuitry. Unlike traditional analog relays, these things can't physically remain in the "latched ON" position due to some electrical fault / fried / overloaded circuit....like say the dread of a starter relay welding itself into the latched position & burning out etc. Has its benefits, is a bit more sensitive & definitely won't survive the "Let's see if we can fix it with a hammer" test.
I was thinking the same thing but I was thinking if the 3d printed part isn't completely clear cause it's not completely smooth it would show through the mold into the molded part? I was wondering if anyone knew if that was the case.
one thing I'd like to say about resin printers that they're only as messy as you are. He describes it as a huge mess and a hassle. I am used to working with chemicals at work and it only takes a little bit of care to make it a painless experience. My entire post processing was contained to one lunch tray with a silicone mat that got stored in a drawer when not in use. No spills, no drama. Set up your work area and plan ahead what you will need and if it's all within reach there is no need to run about or spill chemicals everywhere. Many moan about this "mess" of resin printing and it scares away people looking into it. The smell/vapours are a legit fact though and I print resins in the garage. But the mess is totally up to you.
Very cool! So funny he mentioned the Vulcan tail lights. I was thinking about something like that combined with the type x 180 lights for mine long term.
Yo guys, could you ask Alex what type(s) or blend(s) of resin he used here specifically? I'm most interested in what UV wavelength he used as I'm trying to find an alternative to the costly 3d Printer Brand specific resin, cheers.
This is some awesome work. I sent Airwerks a message to see if they want to do anything with 370z headlights/taillights, the market is weak with options. If not... I guess I'll work with my buddy that has a 3D printer... heh. Great episode guys!
are y'all planning on selling any lenses or are they all just one off sets? i really love those headlights and feel like they have a lot of universality for anything with H4 headlights
Alex and guys: 11:50 you need a resistor in series with the LED side of the optocoupler. It will need to provide around 10mA for a 10V (approx) drop, so about 1k ohm.
Hey X, I have a small channel and I was wondering how you get your music? iv noticed you haven't used any in the last few videos . in the past you had many cool songs.
Did Alex use the photocoupler to be able to ramp up the led brightness based off of the pressure applied the break pedal? I was just wondering why bother with a photocoupler instead of just using an automotive relay other than maybe size.
sooo... clarification time. Most resins have a data sheet that also specs their HDT. They do not melt, and they do not have a Tg as they are thermosets vs thermoplastics, but they still have HDT values. Typically, most general resins, are around 35-80C. 60-80 is more common for your 0.45 MPa, and 35-60ish is pretty common for the 1.8MPa HDT values. There are high temp resins, but as a rule of thumb, the higher that HDT the higher the modulus, and the lower the longation the final material is. Nothing is set in stone here, and it all depends on the chemistry used We have issues shipping any liquid cured polymer type of print in summer throughout the southeast and maintaining original shape.
I have a 2008 Winnebago Adventurer Limited, the left tail light is cracked, manufacturer is out of business, in many RV forums there are many people looking to find a replacement which there are none. Can I get the number or information to Alex's shop?
How would a dlp printed part hold up to excessive uv exposure after printing like a car part that will be exposed to sunlight consistently while being used
Definitely surprised to hear they were resin printed. I wonder how well the clear will actually shield the UV. I can't imagine the clear won't get chipped
The X on it now isn't symmetrical to give it a cool look. If they do the same thing with a Z I don't think it'll look as good when reversed on the other side
A relay is designed so that relatively low power is required on the control (coil) side to switch a high power circuit (high current and/or high voltage) on the load side. It happens to also provide electrical isolation. An optocoupler requires around 10mA to power the LED side (which is less than for a relay coil), and the transistor side can switch around 10mA (far less than the amps that a relay can switch). So the optocoupler is intended only to communicate a signal while providing electrical isolation; it doesn't control a higher-power load. But being electronic, it can be switched rapidly, and many millions of times, without contacts to degrade, unlike in a relay.
Is there any way for me/us to get in contact with Alex? Does he have an Instagram or RUclips account? That's how good this video is. It's inspired me to actually use my 3D resin printers!!!
Ah man we need to know if this will hold up to UV light! There's quite a few cars out there where the taillights crack over time due to sunlight, but new lights are no longer available and people just have no option other than shelling out 500+ for used taillights that are gonna have the same problem in a few years. It would be awesome if this would be a solution!
Might want to consider using a Fade Candy LED controller over the Teensy 3.X/4.X. A Fade Candy give you some great dithering options (i.e., better and smoother animations) that can be complex to do with the Teensy. www.adafruit.com/product/1689 Another option with the Teensy would be a LED driver board that uses RJ45 jacks. This would make wiring much easier if using a single Teesny running front and rear lights. www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OctoWS2811.html
He is on track to build a good tail light, but I see something that is missed... On the inside face of the lens there should be a “dot matrix” style sphere pattern. The spheres will make the light brighter from all angles and make lights safer for street use.
Surely brake lights should be full brightness and intensity immediately as the brake pedal is pressed - if doing an emergency stop and the brake lights gradually increase in intensity as was mentioned, it would surely be dangerous..
Rather than have the lights fade on, maybe have them get brighter as you press the brake pedal. That way if you slam the brake pedal it will be blatantly obvious. I always thought this would look good, and be practical.
the reaso led brake lights turn on instantly is because of the distance you travel while at high speeds. on incandescent lights, i guess 40 years ago a car braking full on from 120kmh will travel 3m of distance from pushing the switch to the lights beeing full brightness. this can and did prevent fatal accidents. guten tag, ein german car person
Love all the detail that Alex went into with these lights. I’m studying mechanical engineering do this is exactly the type of stuff I’m into.
I gotta keep an eye on this guy he has a major future coming... I'm looking forward to a whole line of 240sx light cover replacement cause we all know most of them out there are plain old crap. With the flexibility of a 3D printer can you just imagine. This guy is well educated love his energy
Suggestion: make an LED Screen inside these, like 50 by 30 LEDs, program in certain patterns. A startup sequence running across them saying "Industry Garage" would be sick AF.
Ranks up there with the 240 with "Send Nudes" tail lights. lol
I’m proud of myself for already knowing what he is talking about 😂😂 DIY for life!!!
Those taillights are so dope. Love this guy’s passion too. Great vid
This was an awesome and very informative episode! Makes me want to attempt my own set of lights! Great job Alex!!
For those that don’t understand what he meant by “255”, it’s the value of range the light has. 0 value is off and 255 is full brightness. There’s a ton of videos explaining this and pulse width modulation and how they work together with coding/programming.
Low and Steady on this Datsun. Been following for a bit. Great touches.
This dude has had a LOOOONG day 😂😂😂
He had a tall order to fulfill
he make long neck guy look like a midget
This is why I love this build. Super job on the description and geekery Alex!
This stuff is right up my alley. Micro controllers are really damn cool to work with.
I love this. This is why I have my 3D printers. To be able to make stuff like this. I love it. Keep designing stuff like this and push what can be done with 3D printers.
Mans really said “If you can do it... anyone can” 😂😂😂
This is the first video I've watched of yours and I just subscribed primarily because of you saying. Don't be afraid of this stuff. I try to explain to people how easy this stuff can be if you just do a little bit of learning. Pwm is the way to go man. Micropdm. Thats where its at for these kind of builds man
Thank you so much for going into detail, this is really helpful for my own build.
Also... any chance of sharing the STL so we can try to whip up some prints ?
This is just awesome! Great work Alex, can't wait to see more.
These tails are awesome!
If you want to simply your wiring and use a module that’s designed for automotive use try using the ghozt light v5 modules. They have all the inputs that you need and you program anyway you want without writing any code.
Awesome! I have wanted to do this with my E30. I currently have a hacked up set of stock taillights with LED boards I put together in them.
"R&D." - Xavier 2020
Longest explanation of how a relay works...EVARRRRR! But it was very thorough for the newb, and I didn't know that's how opto-couplers work, so props to you!
For the Acrylic tubes youre using you can mess around cutting slits into them as well as scuffing. Both will help with light diffusion/refraction. The second thing you want to play with is how close/far you place the leds up to the acrylic tube. Too close and you'll see "hot spots" aka the led dots themselves. Its alot of trial and error but im messing around with it as well on my headlights/taillights. If you want to step the controller/led game up you can look into addressable RGB LEDs and a controller like BlueGhozt that can not only do sequences but can also do different colors in addition to having a phone app
Dopest dope! 🔥 That Bill Nye the taillight guy is knowledgeable as hell
Thing looks way more badass at 0:49. Imagine that that red square is a brake light
Really enjoyed that chaps explanation.
those are so dope. loved the explanation alex gave
Alex is awesome!
BANDITOS UNNIIITTTEEEEE!!!!!
Throws up fist like power rangers
That 3D printing side was quite interesting to me because of I am printing by myself (that's a side thing next along with college) and i am obsessed with that. Little later i might do a project making a DIY printer for myself just to tinker with. I do have a friend who's into that too, so there's healthy comunication going on and knowledge-share between each other.
Those taillights are sick!!
Working on a 83 GTI Rabbit and one of the tail lights is shattered from a hail storm last year. This has given me some hope to get a part that is no longer available made.
FYI: The Sharp 817X Photo-coupler is being used as a relay. Basically, for the old(er) school car nerds, it effectively replaces something like a Painless Wiring 80xxx relay kit, with something that is digital, possibly quicker, but definitely MUCH more efficient with its use of electrical supply from the car's electrical power generating circuitry. Unlike traditional analog relays, these things can't physically remain in the "latched ON" position due to some electrical fault / fried / overloaded circuit....like say the dread of a starter relay welding itself into the latched position & burning out etc. Has its benefits, is a bit more sensitive & definitely won't survive the "Let's see if we can fix it with a hammer" test.
You should take the 3d printed part and make a mold out of it..then pour in a proper resin/rubber. Something like [Smooth-On's Clear Flex]
I was thinking the same thing but I was thinking if the 3d printed part isn't completely clear cause it's not completely smooth it would show through the mold into the molded part? I was wondering if anyone knew if that was the case.
@@MYartiisMuRdEr Youd just sand it and do a smooth resin layer//polish it
one thing I'd like to say about resin printers that they're only as messy as you are. He describes it as a huge mess and a hassle. I am used to working with chemicals at work and it only takes a little bit of care to make it a painless experience. My entire post processing was contained to one lunch tray with a silicone mat that got stored in a drawer when not in use. No spills, no drama.
Set up your work area and plan ahead what you will need and if it's all within reach there is no need to run about or spill chemicals everywhere. Many moan about this "mess" of resin printing and it scares away people looking into it. The smell/vapours are a legit fact though and I print resins in the garage. But the mess is totally up to you.
Very cool! So funny he mentioned the Vulcan tail lights. I was thinking about something like that combined with the type x 180 lights for mine long term.
I use arduinos for Preto much everything. I rlly like how you used it for the rearlights!
as a computer engineer and car guy, I would be best friends with this guy LMAO
Don't let NASA get a hold of this guy!
I'd like to bring this vision of tail lights to life, Airwerks Motorsports Tim is 😎 awesome
Gotta collab
Loved all the tech stuff!
The face he makes at 4:00 it's like he was left hanging on a high five.
Love you all
I think I understood 10 words in this whole video haha tails look sick! Solid work. Oh and hello fellow Wisconsinite.
That shit is so cool, you guys are killing it!
Yo guys, could you ask Alex what type(s) or blend(s) of resin he used here specifically? I'm most interested in what UV wavelength he used as I'm trying to find an alternative to the costly 3d Printer Brand specific resin, cheers.
I got the same "I love bass" shirt 🔥
This is some awesome work. I sent Airwerks a message to see if they want to do anything with 370z headlights/taillights, the market is weak with options. If not... I guess I'll work with my buddy that has a 3D printer... heh. Great episode guys!
are y'all planning on selling any lenses or are they all just one off sets? i really love those headlights and feel like they have a lot of universality for anything with H4 headlights
love me some cheese curds...also, thanx for the blue balls guys hahaha...as timothy turns off the lights so we can see better....byeeeee
Ayyyyy Westworld gang where y'all at
Is Alex like 7ft tall? I approve of Xavier's jersey.
Following the lens building process for sure. Want do a custom design for my 67 when I get that far.
i want an octocoupler because it sounds cool af to say.
I don't really get envious over people's possessions.........but I'm jealous AF of your skills
Alex and guys: 11:50 you need a resistor in series with the LED side of the optocoupler. It will need to provide around 10mA for a 10V (approx) drop, so about 1k ohm.
It has a resistor, but thanks for keeping me on my toes!
Those r sick!
just realized my house is walking distance from you guys
I need Alex to make me a set of Bad A tailights for my 280zx....pretty please Alex!
so much yes
the style is great. need closeups! maybe RGB black smoke version?
Hey X, I have a small channel and I was wondering how you get your music? iv noticed you haven't used any in the last few videos . in the past you had many cool songs.
Epidemic sound air some and my friend makes some of the others
Street Bandito thanks man
If I could I'd make some for an Evo X, that'd look amazing.
Did Alex use the photocoupler to be able to ramp up the led brightness based off of the pressure applied the break pedal? I was just wondering why bother with a photocoupler instead of just using an automotive relay other than maybe size.
Optocouplers are more reliable and can be switched many more times. In most cases cheaper too.
sooo... clarification time.
Most resins have a data sheet that also specs their HDT.
They do not melt, and they do not have a Tg as they are thermosets vs thermoplastics, but they still have HDT values.
Typically, most general resins, are around 35-80C. 60-80 is more common for your 0.45 MPa, and 35-60ish is pretty common for the 1.8MPa HDT values.
There are high temp resins, but as a rule of thumb, the higher that HDT the higher the modulus, and the lower the longation the final material is.
Nothing is set in stone here, and it all depends on the chemistry used
We have issues shipping any liquid cured polymer type of print in summer throughout the southeast and maintaining original shape.
try using a small butane torch on the clear plastic. I've seen people polish plastic with fire to make it transparent.
OG Datsun Content
I just got so many Incredible ideas. Does this guy have a RUclips channel? Loved the nerding out!
Yeah, I'd follow his work for sure.
@street bandito why not use blueghozt easy programmable
What SLA printer was used to get a bed size big enough for the lenses?
I have a 2008 Winnebago Adventurer Limited, the left tail light is cracked, manufacturer is out of business, in many RV forums there are many people looking to find a replacement which there are none. Can I get the number or information to Alex's shop?
can I buy the 240z taillight lenses from airrwerks and if so can they make them clear?
I would 1000% rock these on my 280z. What I gotta do for a prototype!?
Great vids
How would a dlp printed part hold up to excessive uv exposure after printing like a car part that will be exposed to sunlight consistently while being used
3rd in! Great channel...glad it survived...been here since 10k subs
Glad you stuck around! Hope there’s some decent info in here to help along the way.
Definitely surprised to hear they were resin printed. I wonder how well the clear will actually shield the UV. I can't imagine the clear won't get chipped
What program u using to design it that’s what I’m tryna find
suggestion, instead of "x" texturing on the surface of the tail light how about the "z" logo
The X on it now isn't symmetrical to give it a cool look. If they do the same thing with a Z I don't think it'll look as good when reversed on the other side
What makes the optocoupler different than a relay? Or is it just a specific type of relay?
A relay is designed so that relatively low power is required on the control (coil) side to switch a high power circuit (high current and/or high voltage) on the load side. It happens to also provide electrical isolation. An optocoupler requires around 10mA to power the LED side (which is less than for a relay coil), and the transistor side can switch around 10mA (far less than the amps that a relay can switch). So the optocoupler is intended only to communicate a signal while providing electrical isolation; it doesn't control a higher-power load. But being electronic, it can be switched rapidly, and many millions of times, without contacts to degrade, unlike in a relay.
Is there any way for me/us to get in contact with Alex?
Does he have an Instagram or RUclips account?
That's how good this video is. It's inspired me to actually use my 3D resin printers!!!
Ah man we need to know if this will hold up to UV light! There's quite a few cars out there where the taillights crack over time due to sunlight, but new lights are no longer available and people just have no option other than shelling out 500+ for used taillights that are gonna have the same problem in a few years. It would be awesome if this would be a solution!
The clear coat used on these lenses is automotive grade UV protectant
How much different is DLP from stereolithography?
No lie this shit was Uber usefull
GANGGANG
I have a question. Why did he use a photo coupler instead of a regular relay?
Reliability
Sick!!!
We love to see it
Might want to consider using a Fade Candy LED controller over the Teensy 3.X/4.X. A Fade Candy give you some great dithering options (i.e., better and smoother animations) that can be complex to do with the Teensy. www.adafruit.com/product/1689 Another option with the Teensy would be a LED driver board that uses RJ45 jacks. This would make wiring much easier if using a single Teesny running front and rear lights. www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OctoWS2811.html
Nice!
Sooo.... How much for him to make me some taillight lenses for my 85 RX7
He is on track to build a good tail light, but I see something that is missed... On the inside face of the lens there should be a “dot matrix” style sphere pattern. The spheres will make the light brighter from all angles and make lights safer for street use.
letters of the day... R and D
Red Wings!
Somebody got a elegoo saturn!
Can the black kid say anything other than "RnD"? Seems like a real asset to the team
Surely brake lights should be full brightness and intensity immediately as the brake pedal is pressed - if doing an emergency stop and the brake lights gradually increase in intensity as was mentioned, it would surely be dangerous..
Were talking milliseconds not seconds. No safety issues. Unless you need an extra mm of braking.
Rather than have the lights fade on, maybe have them get brighter as you press the brake pedal. That way if you slam the brake pedal it will be blatantly obvious. I always thought this would look good, and be practical.
You need to coat it with a good clear w uv protection
the reaso led brake lights turn on instantly is because of the distance you travel while at high speeds. on incandescent lights, i guess 40 years ago a car braking full on from 120kmh will travel 3m of distance from pushing the switch to the lights beeing full brightness. this can and did prevent fatal accidents. guten tag, ein german car person
Mans destroyed the new national geographic vans😭