With regards to the ribbing I think it's for mechanical integrity not heat dissipation, and yeah I suspect Eton/mini developed the Alu horns to sink heat out of everywhere, they look like a very complicated casting to pull off. So I would avoid painting them myself. As for anodising from the top of my head has quite a negative impact on heat dissipation, but strangely I believe the colour can influence the radiation of the heat, but this is insignificant compared to convection with the air where raw aluminium would provide much greater cooling.
Thanks for the comment James. I have also heard about the ribs being structural integrity, so in that case it does not make sense to grind them off. Agreed with the paint, I will do some testing as I have had a set painted.... With anodising, I have spent a lot of time with electronics and aluminium is used for heat dissipation. When it is not visible it is left plain, but anodising it does allow it to fit with a look and be exposed and put on view. Although even some internal heat sinks are still anodised. At this point, not being aware of the anodising process, the oils in the aluminium may prevent it working well. It may still be an option to test. I have looked up and found a company that anodise close to me, they do other treatments as well, so I may just discuss it with them. If I had a nice garage that I could keep warm, this would stop any corrosive action of condensation or frost from the cold winters. Thanks again for your reply.
@@hyphensclassics I suspect you had them power coated, I suppose there is an advantage to shield from the under bonnet temperatures somewhat on the inlet side but I suspect the inlet manifold will pull quite a bit of heat from the block. If powedercoated the thickness is probs around the 150 um - 250 um level or so although likely a polyester coating It won't be a huge difference due to the thickness, I suspect a few degrees or so. It would be interesting to do some logging. I did think about thermaly shielding the inlet manifold from the block with say PTFE gasket and gold, but then thought it might help from a thermal mass pov with the head. I think I think too much! You have made much better progress than I have! But getting there!
@@jamescs9832 an interesting topic for sure! Agreed the inlet being bolted to the head is going to get warm, plus it is surrounded by the SC and the intercooler. The Intercooler with hot air being pushed down and then hot air coming up from below. It is amazing that the air remains cool after the intercooler! My long term answer is to find a front mount intercooler, just not keen on the current models. This does not get rid of the heat coming up from the intercooler, but then your suggestion of gold may become useful
With regards to the ribbing I think it's for mechanical integrity not heat dissipation, and yeah I suspect Eton/mini developed the Alu horns to sink heat out of everywhere, they look like a very complicated casting to pull off. So I would avoid painting them myself. As for anodising from the top of my head has quite a negative impact on heat dissipation, but strangely I believe the colour can influence the radiation of the heat, but this is insignificant compared to convection with the air where raw aluminium would provide much greater cooling.
Thanks for the comment James. I have also heard about the ribs being structural integrity, so in that case it does not make sense to grind them off. Agreed with the paint, I will do some testing as I have had a set painted....
With anodising, I have spent a lot of time with electronics and aluminium is used for heat dissipation. When it is not visible it is left plain, but anodising it does allow it to fit with a look and be exposed and put on view. Although even some internal heat sinks are still anodised. At this point, not being aware of the anodising process, the oils in the aluminium may prevent it working well. It may still be an option to test. I have looked up and found a company that anodise close to me, they do other treatments as well, so I may just discuss it with them.
If I had a nice garage that I could keep warm, this would stop any corrosive action of condensation or frost from the cold winters.
Thanks again for your reply.
@@hyphensclassics I suspect you had them power coated, I suppose there is an advantage to shield from the under bonnet temperatures somewhat on the inlet side but I suspect the inlet manifold will pull quite a bit of heat from the block. If powedercoated the thickness is probs around the 150 um - 250 um level or so although likely a polyester coating It won't be a huge difference due to the thickness, I suspect a few degrees or so. It would be interesting to do some logging. I did think about thermaly shielding the inlet manifold from the block with say PTFE gasket and gold, but then thought it might help from a thermal mass pov with the head. I think I think too much! You have made much better progress than I have! But getting there!
@@jamescs9832 an interesting topic for sure! Agreed the inlet being bolted to the head is going to get warm, plus it is surrounded by the SC and the intercooler. The Intercooler with hot air being pushed down and then hot air coming up from below. It is amazing that the air remains cool after the intercooler!
My long term answer is to find a front mount intercooler, just not keen on the current models. This does not get rid of the heat coming up from the intercooler, but then your suggestion of gold may become useful