Honestly, too much thermal paste is better than not enough. If it leaks on to your motherboard it won't hurt anything, it just looks bad. Liquid metal, on the other hand, can destroy your motherboard if not done correctly.
@@Kyielith i wasn’t refering to electrical conductivity. I was refering to his statement about using too much thermal paste is better than less. Less is more with thermal paste and too much will decrease the thermal conductivity.
@@Shaiky035 because too much paste is inefficient and you can use the thermal paste in other components like other CPUs or GPUs and thermal paste spilling everywhere is not good
@@mrcade2591 is it harmful if the thermal Paste slightly goes over the edge of the Cpu? Like just going slightly over the corner? Cpu+cooler Installation is my biggest nightmare of the PC building Part and soon all my parts are delivered...
@@gaymohammed3137 don't listen to the guy on top, be sure to cover the whole lid with the paste as shown on video and don't be shy to use a little more if you can't cover it all, also most thermal paste types like mx4 or mx6 are non conductive and won't do any harm even if you cover the whole motherboard with it
Yeah, he didn’t put down enough paste for the other types of applications. A thicker but smaller X would make the best coverage for the least amount of air pockets.
@@0Metatron I got a notification for your comment, and without context of what comment you replied to I thought you meant Twitter (x) was the only thing you trust, and I got scared what kind of lunatic had replied to one of my comments lol. But yeah, the x pattern is the way to go. Also with an additional very small dot at the bottom on new Ryzen CPUs, as the hot spot is very far down.
Note of warning to anyone who saw the liquid metal part. While the ihs will be fine, you dont want that metal to be on anything made of aluminium. It will eat right through it and amalgamate with the aliminum causing it to become extremely brittle and weak. Only use if your cooler has a copper or nickel contact point and if using normally/vertically, make sure that liquid metal doesnt go anywhere else and in all honesty, imo, liquid metal thermal compounds just arent worth the risk for the 10 ish degrees it can knock off
@@jublywublygalinstan is most likely. The only other liquid at room temperature metals I know of are NaK(horribly toxic, flammable, explosive on contact with water) and Mercury (horribly toxic, emits fumes)
X method works best for spread and to avoid air bubbles forming, the spread method obviously covers the whole thing but it tends to form air bubbles after placing the cooler Go for the X method, make sure you put enough to cover but not too much so it leaks
Не нужно наносить больше термопасты, это ухудшит теплообмен между крышкой процессора и медной поверхности охлаждения, термопаста нужна исключительно для исправления неровностей этих самых крышки и медной поверхности, то есть если вы нанесёте много либо очень мало то потеряете от 2% до 10% теплопроводности, по этому будет достаточно 2 тонких линий размазанных палочкой)
If you use Liquid Metal make sure you go back after a few weeks and check your lid/die for migration and apply more if needed. You can use nail polish to protect components from shorts, which is really useful for direct die cooling.
how do you check it without pulling off the cooler which in turn would require a re application. do you re check in a week after that re application? at what point can you stop checking on it. like even me using regular paste. I want to see if I have good coverage but it doesn't matter if I have to re apply anyway
@@zanechristiansen assume that it will migrate and plan to add more. I don’t think it’s necessary to revisit it again unless you notice your thermals increasing. The first application is the one that interacts with the metal the most, so subsequent applications tend to be more stable in my experience. Edit: yes, remove the cooler.
@RyanHarris77 yea I typically remove to cooler to check my paste.. lol. yea ive no experience with liquid metal and have debating using it but I'll stick with the trusty regular paste for now
@@zanechristiansen In retrospect, I think it’s most beneficial when you really need a few extra degrees of efficiency in the system. Probably not worth the cost and risk for most people.
@@zanechristiansen Don't remove the cooler to check TIM coverage. Use HWiNFO64 and check the core Deltas at idle and a low load. At a higher load you may see a 10-12C Deltas but at lower loads they will run within 2C, if there is even coverage of your TIM. If one side or end is running hot on a low load, reapply your TIM. Edit: I doubt you can use this method on an AMD CPU with chiplets.
To be fair, they're definitely not putting as much pressure on the glass as the cooler would, so in reality all of these would work, but the X and manual spread would work the best
I think that that's because, unlike the base of a cooler, the glass is resting on top of the "clasp" surrounding the CPU and not on the CPU itself. That's why it can touch and spread (to a point) the paste that was put on the CPU in a blob or an X, but doesn't get low enough to make contact with the paste that has already been spread thin. Again, an actual cooler would not have that issue. It goes both ways, though, as a cooler would help the paste spread a little further in the other cases, but it probably wouldn't be perfect - we already have some overspill, especially in the top right, as well as large uncovered areas, so unless there is a significant excess of paste, it's likely that we wouldn't have full coverage.
I like that the liquid metal was only shown the correct way. Probably because it's expensive and will fuck up your motherboard if it drips off the chip.
@@Ahmed-mo2nr I believe so. Since metal is at transferring heat. Liquid metal helps the cpu transfer heat to the cooling fan much more quickly. I'm not an expert on it, but that is what I understand from it.
@@Ahmed-mo2nryes it is much better than silicon thermal paste, but can easily damage the motherboard if it gets on it, and you can’t mix certain metals or alloys with it, so you have to do a lot more research. If your cpu cooler is made of aluminum it will completely destroy it, and the aluminum will crumble, and you can just crush it with your hands.
@@SkillfulNick it’s fine on nickel plated copper. Every IHS is nickel plated copper but it reacts with copper and aluminum so make sure that your cpu cooler base plate is made of nickel plated copper. You can technically use it on copper but it corrodes it over time.
For laptop uses you do need to use a fair bit more thermal paste compared to the desktop counterpart. Laptops just don't have state of the art cooling systems so a tad more paste is better. Not loads but a bit more than the pea size amount
@Philipp Wilmer In my experience with gaming laptops so far, having a bit more has had better thermal control as opposed to the pea size method. My tactic is put a pea size amount on, place the heating back on and lift, apply half another pea size amount and good to go.
@@betablockrr This isnt rocket science, no matter how much thermal paste you may have on the CPU, the cooler will just squeeze on it due to the mounting pressure and will get the thermal paste to pretty much the same thickness everytime, unless the paste is tough enough to defy the mounting pressure. Just give the cooling plate a good pressing after you mount it, that should solve that issue.
I switched to PTM7950 material for laptops, regular paste no matter the brand degrades quickly on current gen high turboboost CPU's. Especially the popular Kryonaut paste.
The spread of thermal paste is better when you don’t spread it manually because when you clamp the heatsink it will apply pressure to evenly spread the paste to where it needs to go. Furthermore when the CPU heats up the thermal paste will spread even more.
Wow, the bottom right had horrible contact. There are artificial low spots. Tom left was actually the best. I guess be quiet is behind noctua for a reason. Thermal past application doesn't matter too much, but you don't want to little application or it being too thick.
There are SO many air bubbles. It's been shown that spreading the application is not as effective as just pressing down on the blob due to the air bubbles that appear on spread applications
you have to think though, the forces on the ihs are going to be significantly higher when one actually mounts a cooler, vs just pushing on a piece of clear plastic. There is a reason every gpu overclocker does a manual spread on the die when they do a repaste, and that is that full contact is a necessity on direct die coolers.
Yeah, top left was the best but the X pattern that he created was missing the top-left leg of the "X". Thats, why the spread pattern was not good on the left part.
Enfin, enfin !!! Une marque officiel qui montre à toutes ces personnes qui disent “faut faire une croix” “mais non faut faire un point” que la meilleure technique c’est de l’étaler uniformément sur le processeur avec la spatule ou une carte ! Merci 🙏🏼 j’étais sûr d’avoir raison, quand je disais t’étaler la patte et de pas faire un simple point ou une croix pourrie
You need to consider hot spots and spots where cpu dies are that don't necessarily report temperature. Full coverage is the best for longevity of the cpu
The coefficient of thermal conductivity of copper at 20-100 °C is 394 W/(m*K). Thus, any gaskets reduce the desired result. Thermal paste fills air voids, the main conductivity on the metal directly.
It's actually shocking that bequiet official is suggesting to just rub liquid metal on the IHS like that, not taking into out whether the user is using an aluminium base cooler or not, or whether they took the necessary precautions to shield off the metal contacts around the IHS.
Смысл наносить жидкий металл на крышку проца, самый лучший вариант это наносить жидкий метал при скальпирование, ну можно еще на видеокарте, но он может повредить радиатор.
Plexiglass pushed down by fingers is not going to spread the paste as a mounted heat sink would. In an of the cases shown, all will result in the IHS being covered. Excess will be pushed aside.
Another great method I saw being used by a CPU fan manufacturer is to put nine equally spaced dots of thermal paste on the CPU. It seems to give great coverage. Of course the key is knowing how much to apply in each dot. I think that's the most difficult part. It must also depend on how viscous the thermal paste is. I have a couple of spare tubes of thermal paste, so I'm planning on doing a few tests under some glass, to see which technique works best for me.
aah yes airbubbles. Personally i do one pea sized bit and let it spread with the pressure from mounting the cooler. been perfrect spread everytime when taking the cooler off
There are so many ignorant people here. Thermal paste is needed not for heat removal, but for better pressure and elimination of air pockets between the heat distribution cover and the cooler. Therefore, the distribution of thermal paste should be uniform, and not more on one side and less on the other.
For a square cpu like AM4/AM5, a pea sized dot is more than enough for full coverage. In the end, thermal paste is non-conductive, so more is going to be better than less if your not sure.
Crazy I get recommended this 2 days after I actually dumped the entire tube onto my cpu bcs of my lack of research. Mistakes were made but lesson learned the hard away after cleaning up an absolute mess 😂
Air pockets are a real thing. For desktop cpus I just use a X and for laptops I just go to town to make sure there are no dry spots which is very important for direct dies.
Just have a look at the video please. To go a bit further, with older gen cpu a pea in the middle was accurate and sufficient. But then X became better as it spread a bit better but still not covering the whole IHS. Current CPU architecture are more complexe and have spread a bit more on the die. Spreading a thin layer of thermal paste benefit the maximum surface of the IHS to transfer heat to cooling solution. TL;DR Spreading is actually the best for modern CPU. You were right but like at least 7 to 10 years before. PS : Not saying though it is bad and don’t work. That’s just not the best. 😊
spreading with a knife was not recommended. The provided spreader is fine and spreading ensures the edges are covered good. Which are usually hot spot areas of no paste gets on them.
Top left would also work just fine. And for those who are observant like me disregard the fact that you can seeareas of no contact in the bottome right the flimsy plastic the person used bent a regular cooler would not bend and you would get the desired contact.
Recently my machines' annual clean and dust came up. Gave everything a good clean plus dusting, and applied fresh thermal paste onto my CPU (i5-11600K). I used an X patten with a small border around it, and it's working great 😁
Love how the tick the only that shows the worst one that has the least amount of contact with the glass you can still see the spread lines . From a high end company I expect better
I’m a technician and removed hundreds of heatsinks off used machines. I can GUARANTEE you that air pockets are still a real thing, despite the mounting pressure people in these comments claim. The only way to do it properly to cool the new 350W+ CPU’s is to do an X with more paste shown here, a double “pea” sized amount than shown here, or a single “pea” sized amount in centre + 4 small “rice” sized dots near the 4 corners. Im a hardcore overclocker as a hobby as well for reference.
Yep, it works great. My pc's used it for two years now with consistent temps. Long as you're not stupid with it. Application isn't a problem. It won't go anywhere. I AM switching to a conventional paste after this upcoming coolant change though, just because conductonaut DOES leave you a shade timid and possibly use too little. And honestly, the results are so comparable to a normal paste that it's peace of mind just to know there isn't something conductive there. I'm just trying to figure which one to go with.
@@JJMDude ok, interresting, i thought it would react with the alloy of the cover and normally its used for direct contact with the IC inside the cover, but thanks for your information
@BAD_LS Yeah, the IHS is basically just nickel, and with a nickel water block it's basically inert, so I never even had the problem of the alloy effect that happens with copper. Two years and it never budged.
No, dont spread it out by hand that looks like it's adding room for air and not to mention the stuff us toxic and hard to clean so I don't want it on my skin
!!!Вот универсальный гайд!!! 1.Берем заранее заготовленную серую туалетную бумагу, ляпяя на нее 96% спирт. 2. Производим первоначальную чистку крышкуиcpu/gpu/другой чип и радиатора. 3. Плотно закрываем флакон спирта и прячем его, до того как выветрился/выбухался отчимом. 4. Производим финальную чистку. Так же качесвенно, как в фантазиях, элитная эскортнница полирует ваши шары. 5. В зависимости от ваших религиозных и политических убеждений насосим пасту. Как наносить вам скажет ваше сердце : свастика/серп и молот/"а" в кружочке/кельтский/християнський крест/звезда давида/полумесяц с звездой. Что рисусуют ЛГБТ, веганы, феминистки, отбирая у ватных обосранцев МХ5- не знаю(( Духовноскрепные жк антиамераканисты свои Z и V высерают проверенной кп8. Пафосные и педанты берут профессиональный инструмент- шпатель, успешные бизнезмены -- кредитную, гомофобы - китайский вибратор своего бывшего, остальные - указательный палец. Размазывать просто пальцем или предохраниться целофаном пакетом - личное дело каждого. Я, например, брезгую без защиты трогать какие-то amd, с ножками они или без!!! 6.Когда пасту размазали тонким слоем, оставляем пару капель в центре.. Капель, а не как заливаете труханы, с не струшенного с перепоя!!! 7. Мыть палец и снимать целофан или вытереть его об радиатор/куллер/материнку -на ваше усмотрение. 8. После зборки ПК - запускаем крякнутую Аиду64/ её аналоги в deb подобной ОС. 9.Накатываем в честь законченой делюги чашечку чая/кофе/пиваса/абсента. 🎉🎉🎉 PS. Я осуждаю использование жидкого метала, бутирата вместо мх4, настойки боярышника вместо 96% этанола тоже!! Если вместо конструктивной критики очень хотите написать "Ко-ко-ко" или "кудах-кудах".. То мне поебать на тебя, будь ты мамкин оверлокер, душный дрочила арч линукса/ арк вардена даже на выполняющего дефикацию герою СВО похуй (но интересно чей же хер вчера внезапно настучал добровольцу по лбу : пиндосовский/биндеровский/союзно-кадыровский ... Молча проходим мимо, на свое место.. 2к лоу порядочный петушиный уголок восточно-европойского сервера доты ждёт тебя😂
Good application of the liquid metal... However, care to show the protective measures to avoid shorting out if it creeps out and makes contact with circuits.
Every method shown in this video were correct. Of course there are going to be naked spots when putting the heat sink back on lol. In the end what matters is if the amount of paste applied actually spreads across the cpu/gpu with heat and under load. Consistency changes and spreads out. Just put enough in the middle and boom you’re good to go lol no need to get fancy with it.
No, it's not. It just reacts with aluminium and turns it into paper (structurally). It causes discoloration in copper heatsinks, but that doesn't cause degradation in performance.
Its forms an alloy with several other metals with contact, which is something totally different than corrosion chemically speaking. And yeah, it eats away for example aluminum and an can diffuse into pure copper over time which leads it do "dry out". But nickel plated copper aka basically all heatsinks and many coolers is mostly resistant to it. Or if the copper is saturated with it (gallium) already that dry out effect shouldn't be a problem as well.
@@isinatra3605 знаю, но какая разница ели паста все равно размазывается маса + там и нужно что бы убрать мелкие шараховатости ))) ну да ладно так делаю я и не заметил каких то проблем после
Technically, the hot part of the AM5 processor is the bottom center of the chip. Although you need coverage everywhere, be especially diligent that you got coverage on the hot spot.
I've done more than 10 liquid metal applications/reapplications. Not only do you need to spread liquid metal on the cpu/gpu. You will also need to have the same spread on the heatsink cold plate side. This is to ensure that the liquid metal on both sides bonding together when the heatsink cold plate touches the cpu/gpu, so as to eliminate odd hotspots forming. There is also a certain level of experience needed to know how much liquid metal to spread around. Too much, and you risk it dripping off and damaging hardware. Too little, and you get hotspots where the liquid metal isn't enough, the user will only find out through trial and error.
Do you typically use thermal grizzly shield or any other conformal coatings to prevent short circuits. I’m planning on doing what this video demonstrated on the 9800x3d but I’m scared of it dripping over and short circuiting the visible circuits.
You picked literally the WORST option as best. Look at those huge air bubbles right in the middle in the hotspot. It will be even worse with a real cooler since they are slightly concave at the hotspot. You are basically trapping air right in the middle with thermal paste at the edges preventing it from escaping. We are not laying bricks here.
These "experts" in the comment section spamming "air bubbles" make me wanna commit 🗿 Edit: in case u guys dont understand and are a part of "air bubbles cult", there is no such thing as air bubbles...
Why not ? Please elaborate. Based logicalt the viscosity of thernal paste is more than sufficient to entertain air bubbles introduced wirh oressure from spreading. So im curious what your statement means.
@@jewishhella2481 Air bubbles introduced with pressure from spreading?!?!?!?!?!?! my dude you're the one that need to elaborate on that goddamn sentence. the PRESSURE against the cpu itself makes it impossible for air bubbles to form in the first place. And if you're arguing about the whatever "logicalt" of "thernal" paste, pea size method also cause air bubbles...
@@jewishhella2481 what air bubbles are you talking about? The gap between metal to metal is only microscopic that's the use of thermal paste to fill those gaps. Air bubbles at microscopic gap is bs.
it would be correct to determine which is the larger area of the processor or the area of the cooling leg (that is, where the cooling touches the processor), and then apply a thin layer to a surface with a smaller area thermal paste (you can use your finger)
This chip gets hotter around the ccd on the south side. The top doesn't even matter. A proper mounting bracket to focus the ccd has the top partially exposed without the cooler even touching it.
Ага пробовал так сделать так при запуске комп пропещал 3 раза я загуглил это проблемы с процессором ну и я добавил ещё немного после чего всё заработало так что не слушайте таких умных😅
I paid for the entire tube, Im gonna use the entire tube
Ik its a joke but for those people that dont know with 1 tube like the one in the video you can use it for like 20 pc builds
Yep I just put it on my cpu first and with my extra I put some one the gpu and ram and with the little I still had I put around my case
щ
Yeeeeeeeessss dun dun dun dun dun
the extra is good if you mess up your first time like me
Honestly, too much thermal paste is better than not enough. If it leaks on to your motherboard it won't hurt anything, it just looks bad. Liquid metal, on the other hand, can destroy your motherboard if not done correctly.
Some thermal pastes are still conductive tho
Better to buy a known brand that is not conductive
Not just look bad but wasting good thermal paste
You have no clue why thermal paste is used in the first place lol
@@Windforce6thermal conductivity and electrical conductivity are very different. You can have thermal paste on your cpu pins and it work perfectly
@@Kyielith i wasn’t refering to electrical conductivity. I was refering to his statement about using too much thermal paste is better than less. Less is more with thermal paste and too much will decrease the thermal conductivity.
作為一個熱流工程師，散熱膏要的是完全貼合IC與散熱器的空隙，讓熱量順利的傳遞過去，不是看上去平整就好，我會選X型或直接加到爆，抹平這個動作不但多餘，如果你導熱膏量不足還有機會造成部份區域無法貼合
@SIRPp11zr 你沒裝過主機對吧 那個cpu扣具壓力大到靠北，絕對不是影片裡面拿個板子放上去那樣而已
實際用個透明的假主板扣一次你就知道隨便塗都沒差。量不能少就對了
沒裝過機靠幻想的當然會以為要抹平
其實根本不用 因為頂蓋和你的散熱器本來就應該是平的，散熱膏只是填補縫隙
抹平了等下另外一邊量不夠根本填不了
只要不要蓋下去溢出太多黏到主板上都ok
實際上原廠他們用的散熱膏都是這樣的
這影片抹平的塗法跟板子接觸面積是四種最少的，中間都空氣，拿去燒機我不信其他三種溫度會比抹平的高
Waht, I thought youtube was banned in China!
合
@@deepkumar-kk4lf there are Chinese that live in different parts of the world as well m8
Every 4 of these methods can workout, just don't be the guy in the first clip
Why?
@@Shaiky035 because too much paste is inefficient and you can use the thermal paste in other components like other CPUs or GPUs and thermal paste spilling everywhere is not good
@@mrcade2591 is it harmful if the thermal Paste slightly goes over the edge of the Cpu? Like just going slightly over the corner?
Cpu+cooler Installation is my biggest nightmare of the PC building Part and soon all my parts are delivered...
@@gaymohammed3137 not really, just make sure it dont get all over ur cpu pins, and just put a tiny dot of thermal right on the center of the cpu
@@gaymohammed3137 don't listen to the guy on top, be sure to cover the whole lid with the paste as shown on video and don't be shy to use a little more if you can't cover it all, also most thermal paste types like mx4 or mx6 are non conductive and won't do any harm even if you cover the whole motherboard with it
The x seems to have the best even coverage. It would spread even further out with more pressure which the cooler would provide.
Yeah, he didn’t put down enough paste for the other types of applications. A thicker but smaller X would make the best coverage for the least amount of air pockets.
X is the only thing I trust
@@0Metatron I got a notification for your comment, and without context of what comment you replied to I thought you meant Twitter (x) was the only thing you trust, and I got scared what kind of lunatic had replied to one of my comments lol.
But yeah, the x pattern is the way to go. Also with an additional very small dot at the bottom on new Ryzen CPUs, as the hot spot is very far down.
@@ei.. haha, lol, sorry that I freaked you out
He didn't even manage to do a "good" X 😂
Note of warning to anyone who saw the liquid metal part. While the ihs will be fine, you dont want that metal to be on anything made of aluminium. It will eat right through it and amalgamate with the aliminum causing it to become extremely brittle and weak. Only use if your cooler has a copper or nickel contact point and if using normally/vertically, make sure that liquid metal doesnt go anywhere else and in all honesty, imo, liquid metal thermal compounds just arent worth the risk for the 10 ish degrees it can knock off
Thanks for the great advice! It seems like it probably contains gallium. I think I'll stick to the regular stuff.
Also it’s not always a 10 degree improvement, if ur not direct die cooling. 1 more reason not to go liquid metal
@@jublywublygalinstan is most likely. The only other liquid at room temperature metals I know of are NaK(horribly toxic, flammable, explosive on contact with water) and Mercury (horribly toxic, emits fumes)
Actually dont use it on bare copper either, it will age very poorly on that.
@@Shwanksy stop scare people. LQ ist best.
Just do it normal without idiots movement
X method works best for spread and to avoid air bubbles forming, the spread method obviously covers the whole thing but it tends to form air bubbles after placing the cooler
Go for the X method, make sure you put enough to cover but not too much so it leaks
@@Cryonic11 Yeah...U're right
The pea method is best on AMD and on intel the line method is best
@@Shoedenmark why
Because AMD has square CPUs and Intel has rectangular CPUs and the pea method can’t cover the entire IHS of Intel but the line can
@Shoedenmark thanks for the explanation bud!
For am5 cpus try to get the most thermal paste on the bottom-center of the ihs because that’s where the hotspot is
cheers !
Не нужно наносить больше термопасты, это ухудшит теплообмен между крышкой процессора и медной поверхности охлаждения, термопаста нужна исключительно для исправления неровностей этих самых крышки и медной поверхности, то есть если вы нанесёте много либо очень мало то потеряете от 2% до 10% теплопроводности, по этому будет достаточно 2 тонких линий размазанных палочкой)
@@Buglin4ikон говорит чтобы размазали по поверхности нижней крышки там где хотспот а не добавили больше термопасты
Thanks for the tip m8
@@tarakan-kriperон как раз говорит нахерачить туда побольше😂
If you use Liquid Metal make sure you go back after a few weeks and check your lid/die for migration and apply more if needed. You can use nail polish to protect components from shorts, which is really useful for direct die cooling.
how do you check it without pulling off the cooler which in turn would require a re application. do you re check in a week after that re application? at what point can you stop checking on it. like even me using regular paste. I want to see if I have good coverage but it doesn't matter if I have to re apply anyway
@@zanechristiansen assume that it will migrate and plan to add more. I don’t think it’s necessary to revisit it again unless you notice your thermals increasing. The first application is the one that interacts with the metal the most, so subsequent applications tend to be more stable in my experience.
Edit: yes, remove the cooler.
@RyanHarris77 yea I typically remove to cooler to check my paste.. lol. yea ive no experience with liquid metal and have debating using it but I'll stick with the trusty regular paste for now
@@zanechristiansen In retrospect, I think it’s most beneficial when you really need a few extra degrees of efficiency in the system. Probably not worth the cost and risk for most people.
@@zanechristiansen Don't remove the cooler to check TIM coverage. Use HWiNFO64 and check the core Deltas at idle and a low load. At a higher load you may see a 10-12C Deltas but at lower loads they will run within 2C, if there is even coverage of your TIM. If one side or end is running hot on a low load, reapply your TIM.
Edit: I doubt you can use this method on an AMD CPU with chiplets.
I just followed Noctua’s instructions and it works great.
I find it interesting with the glass test the one he says is correct you can see that it does not have full contact.
That's why you don't believe everything you see on the Internet 👍
And other had, what a mad video.
To be fair, they're definitely not putting as much pressure on the glass as the cooler would, so in reality all of these would work, but the X and manual spread would work the best
Тоже это заметил, чувак, он поставил галочку, но при приближении видно, что пятно контакта меньше, чем на остальных вариантах😂
I think that that's because, unlike the base of a cooler, the glass is resting on top of the "clasp" surrounding the CPU and not on the CPU itself. That's why it can touch and spread (to a point) the paste that was put on the CPU in a blob or an X, but doesn't get low enough to make contact with the paste that has already been spread thin. Again, an actual cooler would not have that issue. It goes both ways, though, as a cooler would help the paste spread a little further in the other cases, but it probably wouldn't be perfect - we already have some overspill, especially in the top right, as well as large uncovered areas, so unless there is a significant excess of paste, it's likely that we wouldn't have full coverage.
Always X gave me the best temps, never had a problem. Been building computers for 15 years. God bless ❤
I like that the liquid metal was only shown the correct way. Probably because it's expensive and will fuck up your motherboard if it drips off the chip.
Is liquid metal significantly better at transferring heat than the thermal paste?
@@Ahmed-mo2nr I believe so. Since metal is at transferring heat. Liquid metal helps the cpu transfer heat to the cooling fan much more quickly.
I'm not an expert on it, but that is what I understand from it.
@@Ahmed-mo2nryes it is much better than silicon thermal paste, but can easily damage the motherboard if it gets on it, and you can’t mix certain metals or alloys with it, so you have to do a lot more research. If your cpu cooler is made of aluminum it will completely destroy it, and the aluminum will crumble, and you can just crush it with your hands.
@@SkillfulNick it’s fine on nickel plated copper. Every IHS is nickel plated copper but it reacts with copper and aluminum so make sure that your cpu cooler base plate is made of nickel plated copper. You can technically use it on copper but it corrodes it over time.
For laptop uses you do need to use a fair bit more thermal paste compared to the desktop counterpart. Laptops just don't have state of the art cooling systems so a tad more paste is better. Not loads but a bit more than the pea size amount
More paste means higher temps. You Wann use the absoulte least amount u can to Cover the whole IHS
@Philipp Wilmer In my experience with gaming laptops so far, having a bit more has had better thermal control as opposed to the pea size method. My tactic is put a pea size amount on, place the heating back on and lift, apply half another pea size amount and good to go.
@@betablockrr This isnt rocket science, no matter how much thermal paste you may have on the CPU, the cooler will just squeeze on it due to the mounting pressure and will get the thermal paste to pretty much the same thickness everytime, unless the paste is tough enough to defy the mounting pressure. Just give the cooling plate a good pressing after you mount it, that should solve that issue.
@Andy96 Well as I said in my experience my method has always worked for me
I switched to PTM7950 material for laptops, regular paste no matter the brand degrades quickly on current gen high turboboost CPU's. Especially the popular Kryonaut paste.
The spread of thermal paste is better when you don’t spread it manually because when you clamp the heatsink it will apply pressure to evenly spread the paste to where it needs to go. Furthermore when the CPU heats up the thermal paste will spread even more.
Great airpocket you got there!
It's impossible for there to be an air pocket once the heatsink is on.
Way too much mounting pressure for air pockets
Prove it
Air pockets are not a thing. Almost all the air gets displaced as soon as you put the heatsink on, regardless of which method you use.
@@neatt3815you can literally see it under the glass that simulates the heatsink pressure
Wow, the bottom right had horrible contact. There are artificial low spots. Tom left was actually the best. I guess be quiet is behind noctua for a reason. Thermal past application doesn't matter too much, but you don't want to little application or it being too thick.
I was horrified that they ticked that airgapped application, they should leave how to videos to those who know how to.
There are SO many air bubbles. It's been shown that spreading the application is not as effective as just pressing down on the blob due to the air bubbles that appear on spread applications
you have to think though, the forces on the ihs are going to be significantly higher when one actually mounts a cooler, vs just pushing on a piece of clear plastic. There is a reason every gpu overclocker does a manual spread on the die when they do a repaste, and that is that full contact is a necessity on direct die coolers.
because there are air bubbles stuck inside there
Yeah, top left was the best but the X pattern that he created was missing the top-left leg of the "X". Thats, why the spread pattern was not good on the left part.
Enfin, enfin !!! Une marque officiel qui montre à toutes ces personnes qui disent “faut faire une croix” “mais non faut faire un point” que la meilleure technique c’est de l’étaler uniformément sur le processeur avec la spatule ou une carte ! Merci 🙏🏼 j’étais sûr d’avoir raison, quand je disais t’étaler la patte et de pas faire un simple point ou une croix pourrie
I used an old credit/debit or club membership card to spread thermal paste since sandybridge. Never had a problem with that method.
FINALLY SOMEONE That shows how its done!
Always spread mine, never had any trouble
@@M.Godfrey my girlfriends agree
The spread method works. Ive seen people do it and get great results.
Doesn’t matter much on the methods, we are talking fractions of a difference in temps with all different patterns
imo the less messy, the better
You need to consider hot spots and spots where cpu dies are that don't necessarily report temperature. Full coverage is the best for longevity of the cpu
bro, think in a long term
The coefficient of thermal conductivity of copper at 20-100 °C is 394 W/(m*K).
Thus, any gaskets reduce the desired result. Thermal paste fills air voids, the main conductivity on the metal directly.
Just do a thin x with tiny dots top bottom left right in the empty spots
Best Comment and best method! 🙏🏼 THANKS!
Won't this introduce air bubbles???
Just do dot method. Simple, easy and it works every time. Make sure it's around the hotspot though
Just spread it with your finger
Finally someone telling you to spread it yourself
It's actually shocking that bequiet official is suggesting to just rub liquid metal on the IHS like that, not taking into out whether the user is using an aluminium base cooler or not, or whether they took the necessary precautions to shield off the metal contacts around the IHS.
Смысл наносить жидкий металл на крышку проца, самый лучший вариант это наносить жидкий метал при скальпирование, ну можно еще на видеокарте, но он может повредить радиатор.
Plexiglass pushed down by fingers is not going to spread the paste as a mounted heat sink would. In an of the cases shown, all will result in the IHS being covered. Excess will be pushed aside.
Another great method I saw being used by a CPU fan manufacturer is to put nine equally spaced dots of thermal paste on the CPU. It seems to give great coverage. Of course the key is knowing how much to apply in each dot. I think that's the most difficult part. It must also depend on how viscous the thermal paste is.
I have a couple of spare tubes of thermal paste, so I'm planning on doing a few tests under some glass, to see which technique works best for me.
remember that when cpu heat will melt thermal paste and it will spread itself to cover all of IHS under the pressure
Tightening with screws on all four sides of the socket applies pressure and distributes it much better than pressing by hand at only two points.
aah yes airbubbles. Personally i do one pea sized bit and let it spread with the pressure from mounting the cooler. been perfrect spread everytime when taking the cooler off
Wtf are air bubbles, u stuck in 2010 air bubbles myth, pal.
Air bubbles may cause the thermal paste to not fullytransfer heat to the heatsink. That's why i don't use spatulas
Air bubbles are a myth. The pressure will just push air out
@@lookatmyright I think he meant aoc
@@Duongpppp that ain't a worry with how much pressure is being applied...
finally an old school builder.
Are we not gonna talk about him spreading thermal paste with a visa credit card😂😂😂🤔🤔🤔🤔
Only the best for the best! 😉
That actually looks smart. I might try this and maybe it’ll save me stress and get just the right amount of thermal paste on my cpu
Always just did the dot method and nothing else, works great every time
Oh so that was what the scoop was for. To manually spread it. I Always just put a dot the size of one of the capacitors around the CPU.
There are so many ignorant people here. Thermal paste is needed not for heat removal, but for better pressure and elimination of air pockets between the heat distribution cover and the cooler. Therefore, the distribution of thermal paste should be uniform, and not more on one side and less on the other.
For a square cpu like AM4/AM5, a pea sized dot is more than enough for full coverage. In the end, thermal paste is non-conductive, so more is going to be better than less if your not sure.
Pre-spread always! It is the only way to know that it always works perfectly
Crazy I get recommended this 2 days after I actually dumped the entire tube onto my cpu bcs of my lack of research. Mistakes were made but lesson learned the hard away after cleaning up an absolute mess 😂
No need to spread manually, the heatsink will compress evenly whereas your knife is likely to cause air pockets.
^ this
Air pockets are a real thing. For desktop cpus I just use a X and for laptops I just go to town to make sure there are no dry spots which is very important for direct dies.
Just have a look at the video please.
To go a bit further, with older gen cpu a pea in the middle was accurate and sufficient.
But then X became better as it spread a bit better but still not covering the whole IHS.
Current CPU architecture are more complexe and have spread a bit more on the die. Spreading a thin layer of thermal paste benefit the maximum surface of the IHS to transfer heat to cooling solution.
TL;DR Spreading is actually the best for modern CPU. You were right but like at least 7 to 10 years before.
PS : Not saying though it is bad and don’t work. That’s just not the best. 😊
spreading with a knife was not recommended. The provided spreader is fine and spreading ensures the edges are covered good. Which are usually hot spot areas of no paste gets on them.
Air pockets/bubbles is a myth bud, the cooler has way too much mounting pressure
Top left would also work just fine. And for those who are observant like me disregard the fact that you can seeareas of no contact in the bottome right the flimsy plastic the person used bent a regular cooler would not bend and you would get the desired contact.
there is literal air trapped in the buttered toast first one lol
Recently my machines' annual clean and dust came up. Gave everything a good clean plus dusting, and applied fresh thermal paste onto my CPU (i5-11600K). I used an X patten with a small border around it, and it's working great 😁
I paided for the entire tube, i expect a that i use everything
Smear method, then a pea in the middle. It helps to eliminate any air trapped like what was shown here.
Love how the tick the only that shows the worst one that has the least amount of contact with the glass you can still see the spread lines . From a high end company I expect better
I’m a technician and removed hundreds of heatsinks off used machines. I can GUARANTEE you that air pockets are still a real thing, despite the mounting pressure people in these comments claim. The only way to do it properly to cool the new 350W+ CPU’s is to do an X with more paste shown here, a double “pea” sized amount than shown here, or a single “pea” sized amount in centre + 4 small “rice” sized dots near the 4 corners.
Im a hardcore overclocker as a hobby as well for reference.
Liquid metal on the CPU coverplate O.o???
Yep, it works great. My pc's used it for two years now with consistent temps. Long as you're not stupid with it. Application isn't a problem. It won't go anywhere.
I AM switching to a conventional paste after this upcoming coolant change though, just because conductonaut DOES leave you a shade timid and possibly use too little. And honestly, the results are so comparable to a normal paste that it's peace of mind just to know there isn't something conductive there. I'm just trying to figure which one to go with.
@@JJMDude ok, interresting, i thought it would react with the alloy of the cover and normally its used for direct contact with the IC inside the cover, but thanks for your information
@BAD_LS Yeah, the IHS is basically just nickel, and with a nickel water block it's basically inert, so I never even had the problem of the alloy effect that happens with copper. Two years and it never budged.
No, dont spread it out by hand that looks like it's adding room for air and not to mention the stuff us toxic and hard to clean so I don't want it on my skin
Все варианты не правильные, не мучайтесь, размазывать надо просто пальцем.
!!!Вот универсальный гайд!!! 1.Берем заранее заготовленную серую туалетную бумагу, ляпяя на нее 96% спирт. 2. Производим первоначальную чистку крышкуиcpu/gpu/другой чип и радиатора. 3. Плотно закрываем флакон спирта и прячем его, до того как выветрился/выбухался отчимом. 4. Производим финальную чистку. Так же качесвенно, как в фантазиях, элитная эскортнница полирует ваши шары. 5. В зависимости от ваших религиозных и политических убеждений насосим пасту. Как наносить вам скажет ваше сердце : свастика/серп и молот/"а" в кружочке/кельтский/християнський крест/звезда давида/полумесяц с звездой. Что рисусуют ЛГБТ, веганы, феминистки, отбирая у ватных обосранцев МХ5- не знаю(( Духовноскрепные жк антиамераканисты свои Z и V высерают проверенной кп8. Пафосные и педанты берут профессиональный инструмент- шпатель, успешные бизнезмены -- кредитную, гомофобы - китайский вибратор своего бывшего, остальные - указательный палец. Размазывать просто пальцем или предохраниться целофаном пакетом - личное дело каждого. Я, например, брезгую без защиты трогать какие-то amd, с ножками они или без!!! 6.Когда пасту размазали тонким слоем, оставляем пару капель в центре.. Капель, а не как заливаете труханы, с не струшенного с перепоя!!! 7. Мыть палец и снимать целофан или вытереть его об радиатор/куллер/материнку -на ваше усмотрение. 8. После зборки ПК - запускаем крякнутую Аиду64/ её аналоги в deb подобной ОС. 9.Накатываем в честь законченой делюги чашечку чая/кофе/пиваса/абсента. 🎉🎉🎉 PS. Я осуждаю использование жидкого метала, бутирата вместо мх4, настойки боярышника вместо 96% этанола тоже!! Если вместо конструктивной критики очень хотите написать "Ко-ко-ко" или "кудах-кудах".. То мне поебать на тебя, будь ты мамкин оверлокер, душный дрочила арч линукса/ арк вардена даже на выполняющего дефикацию герою СВО похуй (но интересно чей же хер вчера внезапно настучал добровольцу по лбу : пиндосовский/биндеровский/союзно-кадыровский ... Молча проходим мимо, на свое место.. 2к лоу порядочный петушиный уголок восточно-европойского сервера доты ждёт тебя😂
Да?
Thermal paste is overrated. Just press the heat sink on top of the processor. It just runs a little hotter. 💯
Единственный адекватный человек, но банковской картой все ровно можно наносить) разрешаю так сказать
Мне понравилось и стало интересно как у него обратно термуху всосало в тюбик))
че адекватного? у него термопаста из-за его тонкого слоя не заполняет пространство по центру и не выполняет свою роль
@@b1yde 💀💀💀
можешь на хлеб помазать, охладит твою одну извилину
@@man6k ну и высрал ты
@@man6k термопаста никого не охлаждает если что
U should add contact frames for amd cpus
Basically looks all pasting methods in this video wrong! Ask from tile installers 😂
Too bad CPU-s dont need strength, but they need that spicy coverage 😂
Good application of the liquid metal... However, care to show the protective measures to avoid shorting out if it creeps out and makes contact with circuits.
What tipe of metal Is the CPU "cover" ?
Nickel-plated copper
If you meant the IHS.
IHS stands for integrated heat spreader, jfyi
X is best. Spreading the thermal paste beforehand can leave air bubbles between the processor and the heatsink, which would cause some extra heat
warm up and spread manually, everything else is not optimal
You know what's up 👏👏
Mix both, past and metal, and you will have efficiency combined with safety.
Crossing and smearing are the best ways.
Uh, did you not see the giant air pocket? X, and a middle line if necessary. Don't go all the way corner to corner.
Every method shown in this video were correct. Of course there are going to be naked spots when putting the heat sink back on lol.
In the end what matters is if the amount of paste applied actually spreads across the cpu/gpu with heat and under load. Consistency changes and spreads out.
Just put enough in the middle and boom you’re good to go lol no need to get fancy with it.
I thought liquid metal was highly corrosive
No, it's not. It just reacts with aluminium and turns it into paper (structurally). It causes discoloration in copper heatsinks, but that doesn't cause degradation in performance.
Its forms an alloy with several other metals with contact, which is something totally different than corrosion chemically speaking. And yeah, it eats away for example aluminum and an can diffuse into pure copper over time which leads it do "dry out". But nickel plated copper aka basically all heatsinks and many coolers is mostly resistant to it. Or if the copper is saturated with it (gallium) already that dry out effect shouldn't be a problem as well.
Make a line at the top, take dentel floss and work your way down the cpu, making a even layer all the way thru, works everytime
Тоже раньше верил что нужно размазывать термо пасту, но потом перестал и просто добавлял каплю сверху и все зачем мазать если чип посередине?😂
У райзенов не по середине 😂
@@isinatra3605 знаю, но какая разница ели паста все равно размазывается маса + там и нужно что бы убрать мелкие шараховатости ))) ну да ладно так делаю я и не заметил каких то проблем после
Technically, the hot part of the AM5 processor is the bottom center of the chip. Although you need coverage everywhere, be especially diligent that you got coverage on the hot spot.
I do 20 very small dots on the cpu, basically a 4x4 of dots from corner to corner and have never had a thermal problem on any core.
That's a waste of time lol.
But 4x4 is 16 not 20
I've done more than 10 liquid metal applications/reapplications. Not only do you need to spread liquid metal on the cpu/gpu. You will also need to have the same spread on the heatsink cold plate side. This is to ensure that the liquid metal on both sides bonding together when the heatsink cold plate touches the cpu/gpu, so as to eliminate odd hotspots forming.
There is also a certain level of experience needed to know how much liquid metal to spread around. Too much, and you risk it dripping off and damaging hardware. Too little, and you get hotspots where the liquid metal isn't enough, the user will only find out through trial and error.
Do you typically use thermal grizzly shield or any other conformal coatings to prevent short circuits. I’m planning on doing what this video demonstrated on the 9800x3d but I’m scared of it dripping over and short circuiting the visible circuits.
You picked literally the WORST option as best. Look at those huge air bubbles right in the middle in the hotspot. It will be even worse with a real cooler since they are slightly concave at the hotspot. You are basically trapping air right in the middle with thermal paste at the edges preventing it from escaping. We are not laying bricks here.
That's without pressure🤦♂️ once you install the cooler the air is pushed out.
Yea, heatsink compresses the air bubbles
@@cchris93 Draw a circle with the thermal paste then. See where the air in the middle will escape to. Make sure to keep the extinguisher close by
Top left and bottom right were just fine
These "experts" in the comment section spamming "air bubbles" make me wanna commit 🗿
Edit: in case u guys dont understand and are a part of "air bubbles cult", there is no such thing as air bubbles...
Why not ?
Please elaborate.
Based logicalt the viscosity of thernal paste is more than sufficient to entertain air bubbles introduced wirh oressure from spreading.
So im curious what your statement means.
@@jewishhella2481 p r e s s u r e.
@@jewishhella2481 Air bubbles introduced with pressure from spreading?!?!?!?!?!?! my dude you're the one that need to elaborate on that goddamn sentence. the PRESSURE against the cpu itself makes it impossible for air bubbles to form in the first place. And if you're arguing about the whatever "logicalt" of "thernal" paste, pea size method also cause air bubbles...
@@jewishhella2481 what air bubbles are you talking about? The gap between metal to metal is only microscopic that's the use of thermal paste to fill those gaps. Air bubbles at microscopic gap is bs.
@@sfguzmani lol you just pretty much summed up your understanding of science 😂💀
it would be correct to determine which is the larger area of the processor or the area of the cooling leg (that is, where the cooling touches the processor), and then apply a thin layer to a surface with a smaller area thermal paste (you can use your finger)
I love all those RUclips experts in the comment telling the manufacturer they're wrong about application of their own TIM.
"the manufacturer" is not one person. This is probably produced by a social media manager, not an engineer.
@@Pikmin012 I think you might want to learn about what a "social media manager" actually is and what they do as part of their jobs...
Ah but they are wrong. Marketing sometimes takes over the soapbox from engineers.
こういうの初めてやる時はわからないから本当に助かる
А чо тут американцы
Немцы
@@eternity-dh пон
Перевод названия видео просто
If you don't have the skills or experience in applying thermal paste with a spatula, the x-shaped shape is the best option.
Nimm das nächste mal gleich ne Kelle Spachtel 😂
I wanna hear it from THE GREATEST TECHNICIAN THATS EVER LIVED first
I see you’re a gambler for putting Liquid Metal there
Surface should be totally covered to transfer heat to the cooler, thin layer of thermal compound enhance heat transference.
I used to spread it a bunch. Then I got better paste and did the LTT method of just putting a drop on and that worked just fine.
This chip gets hotter around the ccd on the south side. The top doesn't even matter. A proper mounting bracket to focus the ccd has the top partially exposed without the cooler even touching it.
Do the P dot in the center with slight X when you applied it with the spatula, you could see all the air pockets under there.
All 4 at the end were fine. Only one that I wouldn’t do is top right
I do the first one and I'll NEVER ****ing STOP lol
the Butter knife is the GOTO tool my guy
You don't need thermal paste if cpu has a "mirror finish" surface. So apply one as thin and evenly over entire cpu surface as possible
Ага пробовал так сделать так при запуске комп пропещал 3 раза я загуглил это проблемы с процессором ну и я добавил ещё немного после чего всё заработало так что не слушайте таких умных😅
i use the Noctua X with dots works perfect.
I looked but couldn't find this second object used to spread the liquid, what's its name?
I'm watching a bequiet short on how to apply paste, meanwhile I just screwed on my bequiet cooler that had preapplied paste on it.
the dollup unspread seems have the best contact. the dollup spread only has partial contact
It's recommended you use a butter knive to spread out thermal paste or liquid metal
Probably better to apply LM to the chip outside the case maybe, or have some protector cover around the socket area
i used an old points card from some store to spread my thermal paste it worker perfectly fine
try star method put cross and then put dots on the edges work best for me
Если кулер будет прилегать алюминиевой частью к галлию, то галлий его просто съест, в конце концов. Поэтому учитывайте этот момент
Спасибо