I moved to the 36 yd zero for 5.56 and haven't looked back. Shawn Ryan demonstrates it on a YT video and even has a free printable calibrated target for use at 25 yd shooting ranges allowing you to get a 36 yd zero. I like the idea of the 36 yd zero because it takes out the computing factor out to 300 yds, you still have basically the same offset for super close shots for optic height over barrel. Hard for me to argue with Shawn's experience since he's trained more and engaged more tangos than I ever will.
Having to walk 100 yards to your target in between each volley to check your groupings (especially at a public range) is a waste of time, so make sure you bring a set of high power binoculars or some other optic so you can see where your shots are hitting. Also, the bigger the target, the better. If your sight is really off, you might not see where your shots are going because the target is too small. Put up the biggest piece of cardboard you can find and just draw a target circle in the middle, it'll make things easier, especially at extended distances.
A good tip for bolt-actions and the AR platform zeroing is to first bore sight to get your initial group really close first try. For bolt-action, remove bolt, brace rifle, then look down the bore from the chamber side. For ARs, remove upper and BCG, brace upper, then look down bore from chamber side. At this point for either, locate the target while looking through the bore. Now, once the bullseye is centered in the bore, carefully look through your sights or optic without shifting the barrel, and make adjustments until the target is lined up with both the bore and sights/optic without needing to touch anything. For bolt-action, you can now put the bolt back in. For AR platform, return the BCG and upper to your lower. Your group should be very, very close now, saving you from having to walk shots onto paper in the event your sights/optic were way off.
When doing ammo comparisons it's not necessary to re-zero since you're looking for best groups. Imo too many new shooters focus on trying to get the bulls eye when they should be focusing on grouping
It is amazing how big a difference ammo can have on your group, as well as POI shift. My Enfield No.4 MkI has about 2.2 inches at 100 yard groups with factory Winchester rounds, but my handloads with custom tuned charge, seat depth, and brass fire-formed to my chamber shrank the group down to about 0.9" at 100 yards. The Winchester factory ammo also shot a little high in relation to the micrometer milled Mk1 rear sight, something corrected by adjusting my powder charge. I'm also a new shooter, having only bought my first gun in 2019 (have 6 of 'em now :D). I jumped into shooting both feet first, lol. Built my first AR-15 (without kits) - which was also my first rifle - in less than 1 year of becoming a gun owner, and started reloading (12ga first) within the first 6 months of being a gun owner (bought my first shotgun about 3 months after my first gun). I can only imagine where my skills and collection would be had this Covid crap not screwed everything up. :/
The best pneumonic device is to remember the acronym FORS. Forward Opposite Rear Same. This means for your forward site post if you would like your group to move up, you would lower the sight post. Regarding the rear sight; if you want your group to move to the right, the rear aperture should be moved to the right.
@@nk-dw2hm You are half right. You do know that people have made 1000+ years shots with iron sights, right? I used to do silhouette shooting with a pistol and we shot out to 600 yards with iron sighted pistols. Ive met people who have never even shot 500 yards with a scoped rifle, so “shorter distances” has nothing to do with it.
Zero Rifle...AR- separate the upper from lower, Pull bcg out, stabilize upper, look down bore at target, dial optic to center to match bore... reassemble rifle. Shot 3 rounds to determine where you are hitting, adjust accordingly by dial optic to point of impact. Bolt guns- remove bolt, follow steps previously mentioned. If done right should not take much ammo at all. This is me for 50 to 100 yards.
I gave up after a minute. why is it "important" to zero the rifle? The only reason I can think of is to hit what you aim at, but that is obvious. Did they actually make a video titled, "why it's important" for that?
I think most people get the general idea that they have to "sight in", like for deer season. But especially out here in the east with short ranges, the idea of "bullet drop" and knowing your holds is probably nonexistent. I have a buddy who has like 20 hunting rifles, and not a single scope of his has MOA/MIL markings. They're just all plain SFP scopes, crosshairs only.
im sure most people have a rifle for home defense, you dont need to zero for the purpose after all at that distance is point-shooting. unless you go out hunting or to competitions, chances of you needing to shoot someone at 50,100,300 yards is slim to none, even if you do it will be almost impossible to claim self defense. in my case, i zero'd my rifle at 50 yards for fun because where i live, i cant claim self defense if i shoot someone over 7 yards 🤷🏼♂️
All great advice and I agree with every bit of it, if we were in a pre-ammo shortage world. I don't know about you guys, but when I zero a new optic install, it's one round. Adjust both elevation and windage off of one shot, THEN fire a group once I think it's already dialed in, and repeat/adjust as necessary. If all goes well you've fired only six rounds, your one baseline shot, and a confirmation five-round group. If the first shot is a flyer, you'll still know how much to adjust off the confirmation group, and you shouldn't have to fire another round to confirm as long as you trust yourself working your turrets.
The intent is to find out what the rifle can do. The bench proves the rifle. The positions prove what you can do with the rifle. So, learn both... how to bench zero then how to shoot from the positions... standing, kneeling, sitting, and prone. Then learn how to shoot and move... and don't get shot. Remember, its all fun-n-games.... until somebody looses an eye! Good video... lots of new shooters need good solid info... lots of old shooters need reminding of the good solid info!
In Army Basic Training, we began with 25-yard target distance. That's based on standard M-16 and mil-spec ammo ballistics. Initially we were shooting, standing in a fox hole with sandbag support. Fire 3 rounds, adjust sights. Repeat. Targets had grid lines equivalent to "clicks" on the movement of the iron sights. Hitting "3 left & 2 low" was easy to shift. Sight picture, trigger control as described. That's the spoon-fed method I've used ever since. On new guns!
I agree with your way of zeroing if your doing target shooting and will be shooting multiple rounds, but no so much with a hunting rifle, zeroing sing 3 or 5 shot groups will probably send you home without your deer etc. since you normally only get the one shot and that's going to be with a cold barrel sighting in with 3 & 5 shot groups you tend to be sighted in with a warm or even a hot barrel. and I see the most change between the first 3 shots, I like to try to get close with a few shots then let the barrel cool and then try to get my 1 shot cold bore zero. letting the barrel cool between adjustments,
Not covered is understanding scope height over the bore, when it's a lot, error over distance becomes significant in addition to the normal bullet drop.
I think empty the mag shot group is a good way unless you're running a 30 round mag. A 10 round group will give you all the info you need, on your sight and your self, i found bad habits cause more bad shots than bad sights.
When mounting an optic on a picatinny rail, do you slide it all the way forward in the pic slot then tighten? Or slide it all the way back in the pic slot then tighten? Or does it not matter as long as it is tight?
I’m not sure how big of a difference it would make, but I could see how that might effect your optic even if it’s only slightly forward or back in a certain pic rail slot.
If the zero is really good then it can go out further than 25 yards. The bullets will land on target past 25 yards after a certain point, and most of the time they'll land only a few inches above or below where your point of aim is. Unless you're doing bullseye shooting, 25 yards for a zero isn't bad at all, just gotta make sure it's a tight zero and group.
@@andreivaldez2929 thanks, I've read about that before. The way you really have two zero's, because the closer one is when the bullet is at an upward angle and the second is coming back down. I also put my optic on a new lower, that has a shorter barrel, but I tried it once at the indoor range and it seemed good. I'm mostly into shooting handguns, probably because I've only had access to indoor ranges, except for at matches. I'm on the waiting list to join the gun club, so hopefully after that I can shoot rifle more. I tried a 200 yard rifle match one time and did terribly, like embarrassingly bad. 🙄
TheAlmostbob///// A LOT OF NEW RIFLES BOUGHT DURING THE PANIC BUYING,HAVE NEVER HAD THE COSIMOLINE CLEANED OUT OF THEM,SHOT,DEFINATLY NEVER SIGHTED IN!!!!!!! LET THE LEFTIST,SOCIALIST,SOY BOY,BASTARD DEMOCRATS,CRAWL OUT OF THEIR MOMMYS BASEMENT!!!!! IT'LL BE FUN TO WATCH!!!!! THEIR GUNS WILL GET HOT AND JAMB,IF THEY EVEN WORK AT ALL!!!!!
Because if you have a lower 1/3 red dot and not an absolute co witness it will be drastically off. Always confirm a zero at the 100 using whatever sighting system you have
My neighbor just built his 1st AR and picked up a red dot from his step-dad for 20 dollars, some cheap Atibal thing meant for airsoft. I told him he would hate it, and sure enough it came off after his 1st trip to the range. You dont have to spend Aimpoint T1/T2 money to have a good RDS. Sig Sauer, Vortex, Primary Arms, Bushnell, Holosun and several other decent quality manufacturers all have offerings with very nice features for less than 150 bucks. Theres nothing wrong with getting something more high-end, like Trijicon, Aimpoint etc., but dont limit yourself to sub-par options. You want to give yourself as much of an advantage as possible if you ever have to defend yourself or others in a violent situation :)
DO NOT bring a laser that inserts into the muzzle to the range. It's too easy to get transfixed on adjusting and forget you have a laser stuck in your muzzle. I reckon a chamber laser and rail mounted lasers are okay. Be there no doubt about it, you'll meet the RO if pop one off with a laser shoved into your muzzle. You RO's, keep close eyes on laser activities.
That is the dumbest shit I've ever heard in my life. If you aren't capable of double checking your muzzle prior to firing, then you probably shouldn't be shooting period.
@@StuninRub Well, I've seen the ambulance and paramedics at my range. Saw them take a guy out on a gurney. Not everyone that owns a firearm knows what they're doing. My post wasn't for guys like you but if you see a guy at the range with a laser in his barrel, you'll be watchin' him . Take care
Maybe; maybe not. Shooter's 1st task is to determine the gun's intended use. Type of gun, caliber, weight & type of bullet, etc. Then determine most desirable zero distance. Could be 36 yds or 25 or 50, or 100, etc. My long range bolt varmint rifles are zeroed differently from my AR's, AK's, M1 Garand, etc. No "magic" distance.
I love explaining to people that the windage/elevation arrows on their chinese optic isnt backwards lol. "It says right is counter-clockwise but when i turn the turret the dot goes to the left??" ;'-D
Totally unnecessary to shoot a five round group first. You fire one shot. You make your adjustments off of that. You repeat until you are zeroed. Then, and only then do you shoot a group to confirm your zero, and make fine adjustments if needed. You should know this, it’s straight out of the military FMs. If recruits and basic training are smart enough to adjust their windage and elevation at the same time, I think a civilian should be able to as well. Your advice is wasting time and ammo. Bad advice. Edit: To be clear, I’m not saying all zeroing is done with 1 shot, adjust, 1 shot, adjust…. Point is, if you are not close to your aim-point, adjust off that one shot. Shoot groups when your on or close to your aim-point to zero precisely. There’s no need to waste time/ammo if you’re 6 inches off at 100.
3 or 5-round groups give you a much better idea of what's going on. Fliers happen. I always start with, typically, a 3-round group so that I know that first round wasn't doing something weird.
@@calebshipley4448 completely agree, this guy probably needs a wheelbarrow to carry all that ego around with him. Fliers or mistakes can happen and most of us aren't perfect
I agree with your assessment but if only applies to experienced shooters who have zeroed their rifles for years and know the nitty gritty of zeroing with one shot. They have being doing it for a long time. Jeff's lecture is for somebody who is doing this for the first or second time. everybody was a novice at one time and they deserve all the help we can provide.
@@nk-dw2hm I admit to having an ego but not so much that I don’t trust people to be able to adjust left and right. Zeroing with groups would be fine assuming you’re relatively close with the first shot. Why would you continue to shoot if you’re way off target? Makes no sense. Maybe it’s my logic getting in the way more than my ego.
I moved to the 36 yd zero for 5.56 and haven't looked back. Shawn Ryan demonstrates it on a YT video and even has a free printable calibrated target for use at 25 yd shooting ranges allowing you to get a 36 yd zero. I like the idea of the 36 yd zero because it takes out the computing factor out to 300 yds, you still have basically the same offset for super close shots for optic height over barrel. Hard for me to argue with Shawn's experience since he's trained more and engaged more tangos than I ever will.
I really like that 36 yd zero!
What’s the difference in the two?
Having to walk 100 yards to your target in between each volley to check your groupings (especially at a public range) is a waste of time, so make sure you bring a set of high power binoculars or some other optic so you can see where your shots are hitting. Also, the bigger the target, the better. If your sight is really off, you might not see where your shots are going because the target is too small. Put up the biggest piece of cardboard you can find and just draw a target circle in the middle, it'll make things easier, especially at extended distances.
40x magnification spotting optic and a giant zeroing target work pretty well. :)
Why call it volley? A volley would be more rounds fired simultaneously unless you're leaning on Tennis.
Fucking great point ! Very over looked . I had to call a ceasefire 10 min after being on the range to check my group ......not cool binos are a must
Any recommendations on a cheaper spotting scope?
A good tip for bolt-actions and the AR platform zeroing is to first bore sight to get your initial group really close first try.
For bolt-action, remove bolt, brace rifle, then look down the bore from the chamber side. For ARs, remove upper and BCG, brace upper, then look down bore from chamber side. At this point for either, locate the target while looking through the bore. Now, once the bullseye is centered in the bore, carefully look through your sights or optic without shifting the barrel, and make adjustments until the target is lined up with both the bore and sights/optic without needing to touch anything.
For bolt-action, you can now put the bolt back in. For AR platform, return the BCG and upper to your lower. Your group should be very, very close now, saving you from having to walk shots onto paper in the event your sights/optic were way off.
Add-I use Wheeler laser that fits on barrel end. Easypeasy.
That is a great idea.
When doing ammo comparisons it's not necessary to re-zero since you're looking for best groups.
Imo too many new shooters focus on trying to get the bulls eye when they should be focusing on grouping
It is amazing how big a difference ammo can have on your group, as well as POI shift.
My Enfield No.4 MkI has about 2.2 inches at 100 yard groups with factory Winchester rounds, but my handloads with custom tuned charge, seat depth, and brass fire-formed to my chamber shrank the group down to about 0.9" at 100 yards. The Winchester factory ammo also shot a little high in relation to the micrometer milled Mk1 rear sight, something corrected by adjusting my powder charge.
I'm also a new shooter, having only bought my first gun in 2019 (have 6 of 'em now :D). I jumped into shooting both feet first, lol. Built my first AR-15 (without kits) - which was also my first rifle - in less than 1 year of becoming a gun owner, and started reloading (12ga first) within the first 6 months of being a gun owner (bought my first shotgun about 3 months after my first gun). I can only imagine where my skills and collection would be had this Covid crap not screwed everything up. :/
Fascinating explanation regarding sighting an optic based system. Would you be willing to also produce a explanation when using "iron sights"?
You do the same thing at a shorter distance
The best pneumonic device is to remember the acronym FORS. Forward Opposite Rear Same. This means for your forward site post if you would like your group to move up, you would lower the sight post. Regarding the rear sight; if you want your group to move to the right, the rear aperture should be moved to the right.
@@nk-dw2hm You are half right. You do know that people have made 1000+ years shots with iron sights, right? I used to do silhouette shooting with a pistol and we shot out to 600 yards with iron sighted pistols. Ive met people who have never even shot 500 yards with a scoped rifle, so “shorter distances” has nothing to do with it.
@@adamr9215 this is in the context of sighting in, you sight in at a thousand yards?
@@nk-dw2hm You do the same thing at whatever distance you are going to sight in at. Learn to compensate for your sight in point and you are good.
Zero Rifle...AR- separate the upper from lower, Pull bcg out, stabilize upper, look down bore at target, dial optic to center to match bore... reassemble rifle. Shot 3 rounds to determine where you are hitting, adjust accordingly by dial optic to point of impact. Bolt guns- remove bolt, follow steps previously mentioned.
If done right should not take much ammo at all. This is me for 50 to 100 yards.
It makes my skin crawl to think there may actually be people out there who don't zero their rifle...
What's the point when bump firing from the hip?
I gave up after a minute. why is it "important" to zero the rifle?
The only reason I can think of is to hit what you aim at, but that is obvious. Did they actually make a video titled, "why it's important" for that?
I think most people get the general idea that they have to "sight in", like for deer season. But especially out here in the east with short ranges, the idea of "bullet drop" and knowing your holds is probably nonexistent. I have a buddy who has like 20 hunting rifles, and not a single scope of his has MOA/MIL markings. They're just all plain SFP scopes, crosshairs only.
We shoot from the hip.
im sure most people have a rifle for home defense, you dont need to zero for the purpose after all at that distance is point-shooting.
unless you go out hunting or to competitions, chances of you needing to shoot someone at 50,100,300 yards is slim to none, even if you do it will be almost impossible to claim self defense.
in my case, i zero'd my rifle at 50 yards for fun because where i live, i cant claim self defense if i shoot someone over 7 yards 🤷🏼♂️
All great advice and I agree with every bit of it, if we were in a pre-ammo shortage world. I don't know about you guys, but when I zero a new optic install, it's one round. Adjust both elevation and windage off of one shot, THEN fire a group once I think it's already dialed in, and repeat/adjust as necessary. If all goes well you've fired only six rounds, your one baseline shot, and a confirmation five-round group. If the first shot is a flyer, you'll still know how much to adjust off the confirmation group, and you shouldn't have to fire another round to confirm as long as you trust yourself working your turrets.
The intent is to find out what the rifle can do. The bench proves the rifle. The positions prove what you can do with the rifle. So, learn both... how to bench zero then how to shoot from the positions... standing, kneeling, sitting, and prone. Then learn how to shoot and move... and don't get shot. Remember, its all fun-n-games.... until somebody looses an eye! Good video... lots of new shooters need good solid info... lots of old shooters need reminding of the good solid info!
Seen some good evidence for 36 yard zero from former operators.
In Army Basic Training, we began with 25-yard target distance. That's based on standard M-16 and mil-spec ammo ballistics. Initially we were shooting, standing in a fox hole with sandbag support. Fire 3 rounds, adjust sights. Repeat. Targets had grid lines equivalent to "clicks" on the movement of the iron sights. Hitting "3 left & 2 low" was easy to shift.
Sight picture, trigger control as described. That's the spoon-fed method I've used ever since.
On new guns!
@@jerroldkazynski5480 ruclips.net/video/jttB1kUXfJE/видео.html
Have people been questioning the importance of a zero'd rifle?
It doesn't matter if you zero your optic or not when you close your eyes and spray rounds.
People are morons..............
@@GreatUnknownDingleberry I guess one could say you zeroed your eye sight
@@patrickkinniburgh6429 Nice!
This is a thinly veiled message to get your fat asses ready to move. It's going down soon.
I agree with your way of zeroing if your doing target shooting and will be shooting multiple rounds, but no so much with a hunting rifle, zeroing sing 3 or 5 shot groups will probably send you home without your deer etc. since you normally only get the one shot and that's going to be with a cold barrel sighting in with 3 & 5 shot groups you tend to be sighted in with a warm or even a hot barrel. and I see the most change between the first 3 shots, I like to try to get close with a few shots then let the barrel cool and then try to get my 1 shot cold bore zero. letting the barrel cool between adjustments,
Not covered is understanding scope height over the bore, when it's a lot, error over distance becomes significant in addition to the normal bullet drop.
Good presentation.
Great tips as always Jeff 👍
I think empty the mag shot group is a good way unless you're running a 30 round mag. A 10 round group will give you all the info you need, on your sight and your self, i found bad habits cause more bad shots than bad sights.
Interesting video. What ammunition do I use to zero my rifle? Especially based on the range of green weights available
When mounting an optic on a picatinny rail, do you slide it all the way forward in the pic slot then tighten? Or slide it all the way back in the pic slot then tighten? Or does it not matter as long as it is tight?
I’ve always heard to slide it forward then tighten
@@barry6557 I don’t think you understood the question
I’m not sure how big of a difference it would make, but I could see how that might effect your optic even if it’s only slightly forward or back in a certain pic rail slot.
@@lucasblanchard47 I did
Forward. Recoil will put it there eventually.
Any reason not to calculate a specific zeroing distance for the barrel & round?
Excellent video.
I sighted in my prism optic at 25 yards because that's the farthest I could put the target at the indoor range 🙄
If the zero is really good then it can go out further than 25 yards. The bullets will land on target past 25 yards after a certain point, and most of the time they'll land only a few inches above or below where your point of aim is. Unless you're doing bullseye shooting, 25 yards for a zero isn't bad at all, just gotta make sure it's a tight zero and group.
@@andreivaldez2929 thanks, I've read about that before. The way you really have two zero's, because the closer one is when the bullet is at an upward angle and the second is coming back down. I also put my optic on a new lower, that has a shorter barrel, but I tried it once at the indoor range and it seemed good.
I'm mostly into shooting handguns, probably because I've only had access to indoor ranges, except for at matches. I'm on the waiting list to join the gun club, so hopefully after that I can shoot rifle more. I tried a 200 yard rifle match one time and did terribly, like embarrassingly bad. 🙄
love the logo
When you put a optic on your rifle do you need a riser for the optic
Good informatio
Great video, thank you so very much.👌🤠👍
How do you zero a bayonet?
Henry at 9 Hole Reviews will remember that
Thank you again
I only know what you're saying because I've done this before. This should have run through an example. This might as well be a written article.
Are there people that don’t properly zero their rifles? That’s kinda a necessary step
I know people that didnt know that zeroing even existed
TheAlmostbob///// A LOT OF NEW RIFLES BOUGHT DURING THE PANIC BUYING,HAVE NEVER HAD THE COSIMOLINE CLEANED OUT OF THEM,SHOT,DEFINATLY NEVER SIGHTED IN!!!!!!! LET THE LEFTIST,SOCIALIST,SOY BOY,BASTARD DEMOCRATS,CRAWL OUT OF THEIR MOMMYS BASEMENT!!!!! IT'LL BE FUN TO WATCH!!!!! THEIR GUNS WILL GET HOT AND JAMB,IF THEY EVEN WORK AT ALL!!!!!
@@joelerk6298 it's not availble on every gun
I “one” my rifle. It’s WAY better than zeroing.
Zeroing is overrated. I've been shooting by ear just like my grandpa taught me and it works great!
Yeah, but how do you pull the trigger with an ear lobe?
Personally I do elevation before windage because of range conditions
So do you first zero the iron sights and then your red dot? And if so why not just lineup the red dot to your iron sight?
Yes, if you are cowitnessing, zero irons, line up rds, and then group both to verify. At least that's how I've always done it.
Because if you have a lower 1/3 red dot and not an absolute co witness it will be drastically off. Always confirm a zero at the 100 using whatever sighting system you have
Currently I only have iron sights I haven't decided on a red dot yet...🙂👍
My neighbor just built his 1st AR and picked up a red dot from his step-dad for 20 dollars, some cheap Atibal thing meant for airsoft. I told him he would hate it, and sure enough it came off after his 1st trip to the range. You dont have to spend Aimpoint T1/T2 money to have a good RDS. Sig Sauer, Vortex, Primary Arms, Bushnell, Holosun and several other decent quality manufacturers all have offerings with very nice features for less than 150 bucks. Theres nothing wrong with getting something more high-end, like Trijicon, Aimpoint etc., but dont limit yourself to sub-par options. You want to give yourself as much of an advantage as possible if you ever have to defend yourself or others in a violent situation :)
@@blue6gun thanks, and I am thinking of the mid-tier price range, preferably the lower end of that!
Good Video.
How about iron sight
It's the same process, but you're just adjusting the front or rear sights accordingly.
Don't forget to lick your thumb and swipe the front post.
36 yard zero. Check out Vigilance Elite for why 👊🏼🗽
What happened to 25 meters?
I have left the military , 25 yards will work
FDNYPD...... Awesome!!
DO NOT bring a laser that inserts into the muzzle to the range. It's too easy to get transfixed on adjusting and forget you have a laser stuck in your muzzle. I reckon a chamber laser and rail mounted lasers are okay. Be there no doubt about it, you'll meet the RO if pop one off with a laser shoved into your muzzle. You RO's, keep close eyes on laser activities.
That is the dumbest shit I've ever heard in my life. If you aren't capable of double checking your muzzle prior to firing, then you probably shouldn't be shooting period.
@@StuninRub Well, I've seen the ambulance and paramedics at my range. Saw them take a guy out on a gurney. Not everyone that owns a firearm knows what they're doing. My post wasn't for guys like you but if you see a guy at the range with a laser in his barrel, you'll be watchin' him . Take care
Algorithm defeated.
Don’t throw a shot, you’ll only need to take one shot lol
Ironic lower with the single worst place in the country for gun owners.
And a 36 yard zero…..
Maybe; maybe not. Shooter's 1st task is to determine the gun's intended use. Type of gun, caliber, weight & type of bullet, etc. Then determine most desirable zero distance. Could be 36 yds or 25 or 50, or 100, etc. My long range bolt varmint rifles are zeroed differently from my AR's, AK's, M1 Garand, etc. No "magic" distance.
@@ronaldperkins4222 absolutely, I was just pointing out that 36 yard zero is another option not mentioned
Shawn Ryan indorse’s this message
@@boesenberg02 Understood. 👍
🤠🤝
👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
I love explaining to people that the windage/elevation arrows on their chinese optic isnt backwards lol.
"It says right is counter-clockwise but when i turn the turret the dot goes to the left??" ;'-D
Good Lord. Was this aimed at 12 year olds?
Totally unnecessary to shoot a five round group first. You fire one shot. You make your adjustments off of that. You repeat until you are zeroed. Then, and only then do you shoot a group to confirm your zero, and make fine adjustments if needed. You should know this, it’s straight out of the military FMs. If recruits and basic training are smart enough to adjust their windage and elevation at the same time, I think a civilian should be able to as well. Your advice is wasting time and ammo. Bad advice.
Edit: To be clear, I’m not saying all zeroing is done with 1 shot, adjust, 1 shot, adjust…. Point is, if you are not close to your aim-point, adjust off that one shot. Shoot groups when your on or close to your aim-point to zero precisely. There’s no need to waste time/ammo if you’re 6 inches off at 100.
3 or 5-round groups give you a much better idea of what's going on. Fliers happen. I always start with, typically, a 3-round group so that I know that first round wasn't doing something weird.
@@calebshipley4448 completely agree, this guy probably needs a wheelbarrow to carry all that ego around with him. Fliers or mistakes can happen and most of us aren't perfect
I agree with your assessment but if only applies to experienced shooters who have zeroed their rifles for years and know the nitty gritty of zeroing with one shot. They have being doing it for a long time. Jeff's lecture is for somebody who is doing this for the first or second time. everybody was a novice at one time and they deserve all the help we can provide.
Spot on!😁
@@nk-dw2hm I admit to having an ego but not so much that I don’t trust people to be able to adjust left and right. Zeroing with groups would be fine assuming you’re relatively close with the first shot. Why would you continue to shoot if you’re way off target? Makes no sense. Maybe it’s my logic getting in the way more than my ego.
If you sneeze 👃🏻💨 reconfirm your zero
I sneezed outta my a$$. I am off to the range to re-zero.