I've been so hung up on election stuff that I found a happy surprise because all my favorite car channels have new content. Thanks for the video. Good news last week, good videos this week 👍
This is the most interesting project in youtube atm. Well this and swiss cheese. Both are massive builds done right. Not over the top, but everything done right.
I don't really care much for Mustangs. But I love fabrication. Especially when it's done properly. And you, sir, are definitely doing things properly. Can't wait to see this project as it progresses.
I really don't like when ppl go overboard with the wide rear tires on Mustangs and Camaros, but Casper is RIGHT! She's gonna be amazing when it's all said and done. (Except for that hood scoop, still not sold 😅)
Wow, when you first started on this, I thought "that owner must really love this particular car" seeing your work, I feel the real love affair may just be about to start. Love those wheels, those good size tyres, along with their location in the wheel arches are fantastic. Great work, must be time for a bourbon, Kiwi.
I love the Watt's Link set up and I use it whenever I can because you don't get the "swagger" of a single Panhard set up, but holy cow! there isn't a lot of realstate left over in there for it! Good stuff as always Kiwi.
My Dude, love the content. This is the second 4 link setup I have seen you do and I believe it's time to invest in a couple good welding cheap welding magnets. Would really help you out. Keep up the Bad ass work!
@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 that's probably why they are predominantly bright red, help stop us from forgetting about em. I started sticking mine to the welder because I hate finishing a job only to realize that I already own a tool that would have made that job easier and saved time. The welding magnets and the simple bubble level.
The wheels are going to look good, centered nice! I thought, man that's a lot of welding without gloves......but you're tough....ya even welded your nuts! 😅
The owner has a vision and Kiwi has the pleasure of building it. This is going to have a street fighter vibe when finished. I'm wondering about all 4 links mounting low on the center of the axle. Seems odd. First burnout and launch will tell ya, but that's a bit late to find out. Consider getting it running with no interior just glass doors etc and test it. For me i see a 2 link setup the way it is. It may be fine but good to know first.
This looks a bit more like a rear end 🤗 And yeah, I'm a bit better with cars than I am with computers too. Yeah, just supply the unit, and let the fitter work out where all the bits look like they might go. 🤣 But if I had to trust anyone to make it work, it's KIWI!!
Probably weight, cost, ease of manufacturing, the amount of power the car was expected to handle. They went from full chassis to unibody for a lot of reasons, this would probably be excess weight the average compact car didn't require. I am no expert, but that is my take.
I think the key thing was that they simply didn't need them. The Mustang only made 210hp back in the day and the chassis/body was plenty strong enough for that. Now that 400hp is routine and tires are bigger and have more grip it's exposing the short comings of the 60 year old design.
It does look like a nice kit, and certainly well made. I'm really surprised that they made the torsion bar arms out of steel, and made them that thick. Nothing wrong with steel other than it's heavy, and it's unsprung weight, but like you mentioned, it's not a race car, so it's not really critical... My Injected Winged Sprint Car has torsion bars front and rear, and it uses arms that are very similar, but they are aluminum and they are only about half of the thickness of the steel arms that come with the kit, and they hold up very well, and they get a lot of abuse... I like the tires and wheels. This is going to be a very cool car when it's finished. What color is it going to be ?
Where did the 1/4 panel come from? Do you cut the bottom rail skin off to weld the bracket to the inside stub? Will you add a piece inside the rail to tag this bracket to the torque box?
Got the 1/4 panels off Summit Racing. Yes I will cut the rail skin away to allow the further bracing I'm going to do to be welded direct to the subframe connector. Much like I did in the Video.
Hey Kiwi! You tipped me off about Scotts HotRods when I asked you about that '40 Ford coupe video a while back. I have checked them out and it seems like their chassis is just what I want. I am waiting for my "40 sedan body to come home from the body shop and I plan to call Scotts to see about ordering a chassis. Thank you! Are you near Scotts shop?
Did you get that diff kit in mate i wast thinking why you didn't convince him to use the much better uneven rod kit witch is far superior in strength this car wont have that much wheel travel so binding up would not have been a problem i just think the torque going to the diff bracket and chassis mount will be a weakness i know you will have done all you can to prevent this i certainly woldnd use this kit in any car i would have got rid of the back seat if i was set on equal length rods ( i hope your not one of the immigrants thats going to be deported 😂😂😂😂) all the best
@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 out of your hand mate probably never have a problem with it I am a bit anal about things I like to do things that will have the best outcome. I won't ask you about your political leanings I don't want to fall out with you I hope everything works out ok⁸
I don't like this kit one rod has to be above the diff radius rods to close together if it was a big power car and you used the power a lot that set up will not last the torsional twist will weaken the welds on the housing and besides you have fuck all ground clearance under the diff the other type with shorter top rods (one above the diff)) is a better set up that way the rods are further apart and stop the diff wanting to twist😮😮
So the suspension is only good for driving in a straight line. Totally bound up with 4 link which do not articulate very well and a huge sway bar which in effect does not at all. Drag race crap. Shocks wide apart?? Drag racers put them real close together. Some are near a monoshock! Shocks and coild need to be as close to the tyre as possible so they actually suspend and damp the wheel movement
Having watched many of Kiwis vids he knows how suspension and the chassis works. Kiwis are known for this stuff. The name Shelby would not be the legend it is without the input of Kiwis John Ohlsen, Chris Amon and of course McLaren. Between Kiwis fabrication skill and Scotts hotrod's handwear I am sure the car will drive and handle better than stock. Much better then what was expected from any stock car in its era.
Drag race set up would have the top bar above the axle, these bars are too close together in my opinion. Your right the shocks and springs need to be as close to the wheels as possible and I'll do what ever I have to to make that happen. If it's got my name on it it's going to handle!! 😎👍
@martinsmallwood9605 Thankyou for those kind words man. As with all road cars some compromises are made but I'll Kiwify this set up to make work well 😁😎😎
The guy that owns this car won the lottery when he found you Kiwi! Nice work.
I've been so hung up on election stuff that I found a happy surprise because all my favorite car channels have new content. Thanks for the video. Good news last week, good videos this week 👍
Glad you enjoyed it 😎👍
This is the most interesting project in youtube atm. Well this and swiss cheese. Both are massive builds done right. Not over the top, but everything done right.
Doing an excellent job should certainly be able,to take that engine, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks Donald, all the best to you and yours too man😁👍😎
I don't really care much for Mustangs. But I love fabrication. Especially when it's done properly. And you, sir, are definitely doing things properly. Can't wait to see this project as it progresses.
Thanks man!!
I really don't like when ppl go overboard with the wide rear tires on Mustangs and Camaros, but Casper is RIGHT! She's gonna be amazing when it's all said and done. (Except for that hood scoop, still not sold 😅)
Wow, when you first started on this, I thought "that owner must really love this particular car" seeing your work, I feel the real love affair may just be about to start. Love those wheels, those good size tyres, along with their location in the wheel arches are fantastic. Great work, must be time for a bourbon, Kiwi.
Thanks mate !! A bourbon bottle was harmed in the making of this video😁. The wheels are going to make this car😎😁
I love the Watt's Link set up and I use it whenever I can because you don't get the "swagger" of a single Panhard set up, but holy cow! there isn't a lot of realstate left over in there for it!
Good stuff as always Kiwi.
Thanks bud!! That watts link is going to eat up some room, certainly the stock fuel tank won't fit now....🤔
My Dude, love the content. This is the second 4 link setup I have seen you do and I believe it's time to invest in a couple good welding cheap welding magnets. Would really help you out.
Keep up the Bad ass work!
Thanks man!! I have some welding magnets just don't always think to use them.....🤔👍
@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 that's probably why they are predominantly bright red, help stop us from forgetting about em. I started sticking mine to the welder because I hate finishing a job only to realize that I already own a tool that would have made that job easier and saved time. The welding magnets and the simple bubble level.
The wheel is centered very well in the fenderwell. Looks good Kiwi
Thanks man, it's all in details !!!😁😎😎
Can't wait to see the final results
Me too!!😁😎👍
Hoping to get around to doing this to my mk1 capri soon.
Love those Mk1 Capri's. 😁😎👍
The wheels are going to look good, centered nice! I thought, man that's a lot of welding without gloves......but you're tough....ya even welded your nuts! 😅
🤣😂 that's true I did 😁👍😎
very interesting, very cool Kiwi. !
Thanks man glad you enjoyed it !!
Agree with gusseting that. A lot of torque going to be applied to a small area.
Especially with the drag radials on it 😳
Gonna be a beautiful Stang!👍🏁
thanks man and thanks for watching!!
Great work kiwi that mustang going to bad ass
thanks man and thanks for watching!!
looking good Kiwi
Thanks man and thanks for watching !!
The owner has a vision and Kiwi has the pleasure of building it. This is going to have a street fighter vibe when finished. I'm wondering about all 4 links mounting low on the center of the axle. Seems odd. First burnout and launch will tell ya, but that's a bit late to find out. Consider getting it running with no interior just glass doors etc and test it. For me i see a 2 link setup the way it is.
It may be fine but good to know first.
I kinda agree with you, but Scott's say it's the shit!! Time will tell .....
Nice stuff kiwi 👀👍
thanks man and thanks for watching!!
The Tin Soldier stuff is very nice ,proly much more expensive
I hadn't heard of them so I took a quick look. Very Nice stuff but seems to be quite drag race focused and not really for the budget minded😁👍😎
@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 yes ur ryt Chris
This looks a bit more like a rear end 🤗
And yeah, I'm a bit better with cars than I am with computers too.
Yeah, just supply the unit, and let the fitter work out where all the bits look like they might go. 🤣 But if I had to trust anyone to make it work, it's KIWI!!
Thanks man !! The watts link is going to be bear to do ......
If subframe connectors are such a good idea (and they obviously are), why didn't they have them originally?
Probably weight, cost, ease of manufacturing, the amount of power the car was expected to handle. They went from full chassis to unibody for a lot of reasons, this would probably be excess weight the average compact car didn't require. I am no expert, but that is my take.
I think the key thing was that they simply didn't need them. The Mustang only made 210hp back in the day and the chassis/body was plenty strong enough for that. Now that 400hp is routine and tires are bigger and have more grip it's exposing the short comings of the 60 year old design.
Great stuff, really precise work there mate!👌🏻
The ole girl is going to handle like a slot car! I think Carrol Shelby would approve!😎
Cheers mate!! She should be good!!
It does look like a nice kit, and certainly well made. I'm really surprised that they made the torsion bar arms
out of steel, and made them that thick. Nothing wrong with steel other than it's heavy, and it's unsprung weight,
but like you mentioned, it's not a race car, so it's not really critical...
My Injected Winged Sprint Car has torsion bars front and rear, and it uses arms that are very similar, but they
are aluminum and they are only about half of the thickness of the steel arms that come with the kit, and they
hold up very well, and they get a lot of abuse...
I like the tires and wheels. This is going to be a very cool car when it's finished. What color is it going to be ?
Yes aluminum would have been a much better choice and prettier!! No decision on the color as yet 🤷🏼♂️
👌🏼✔️
Cheers mate!!
Where did the 1/4 panel come from? Do you cut the bottom rail skin off to weld the bracket to the inside stub? Will you add a piece inside the rail to tag this bracket to the torque box?
Got the 1/4 panels off Summit Racing. Yes I will cut the rail skin away to allow the further bracing I'm going to do to be welded direct to the subframe connector. Much like I did in the Video.
Brother hood did you catch up with the 392 hemi parts
Yes I got your email thanks bud, I'll reach out to him over the weekend. Thanks for that!!
Hey Kiwi! You tipped me off about Scotts HotRods when I asked you about that '40 Ford coupe video a while back. I have checked them out and it seems like their chassis is just what I want. I am waiting for my "40 sedan body to come home from the body shop and I plan to call Scotts to see about ordering a chassis. Thank you! Are you near Scotts shop?
They're about 3 hours from me in Knoxville. I'm in Nashville. I believe they have quite a long turnaround time on a chassis as theyre very busy.
and just when i finish my comment on the last vid, the correct vid shows up, woohoo!!!
I'd rather work on a rusty old mustang then a dang computer 😬
I associate a 4 link rear with drag racing. How does will it handle normal street driving with bumps and turns?
The 4 link does well in those situations and having bushings rather than rod ends allows them to articulate a little better which is good!!
Rose joints are better on the rod ends but can be a bit noi etc😊csandcustoms9160
Do you have to send the brackets back? I could use them.
Ok, you pay for the shipping and you can have them 👍
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 I tried to send a way to get in touch with me so I could pay for the shipping. I'll try again
@@budd1814 615-516-3838
1st or last I'm here
Cheers mate!!
1st!
Good on ya mate!!
Did you get that diff kit in mate i wast thinking why you didn't convince him to use the much better uneven rod kit witch is far superior in strength this car wont have that much wheel travel so binding up would not have been a problem i just think the torque going to the diff bracket and chassis mount will be a weakness i know you will have done all you can to prevent this i certainly woldnd use this kit in any car i would have got rid of the back seat if i was set on equal length rods ( i hope your not one of the immigrants thats going to be deported 😂😂😂😂) all the best
The customer supplied this kit so it was out of my hands. Mate, I'm a U.S. citizen now, complete with passport! They're stuck with me now 😁😎👍
@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 out of your hand mate probably never have a problem with it I am a bit anal about things I like to do things that will have the best outcome. I won't ask you about your political leanings I don't want to fall out with you I hope everything works out ok⁸
I don't like this kit one rod has to be above the diff radius rods to close together if it was a big power car and you used the power a lot that set up will not last the torsional twist will weaken the welds on the housing and besides you have fuck all ground clearance under the diff the other type with shorter top rods (one above the diff)) is a better set up that way the rods are further apart and stop the diff wanting to twist😮😮
We are seeing the same things sir !!😎👍
Thanks😊😊😊@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160
So the suspension is only good for driving in a straight line. Totally bound up with 4 link which do not articulate very well and a huge sway bar which in effect does not at all. Drag race crap.
Shocks wide apart?? Drag racers put them real close together. Some are near a monoshock! Shocks and coild need to be as close to the tyre as possible so they actually suspend and damp the wheel movement
Having watched many of Kiwis vids he knows how suspension and the chassis works.
Kiwis are known for this stuff. The name Shelby would not be the legend it is without the input of Kiwis John Ohlsen, Chris Amon and of course McLaren.
Between Kiwis fabrication skill and Scotts hotrod's handwear I am sure the car will drive and handle better than stock.
Much better then what was expected from any stock car in its era.
Drag race set up would have the top bar above the axle, these bars are too close together in my opinion. Your right the shocks and springs need to be as close to the wheels as possible and I'll do what ever I have to to make that happen. If it's got my name on it it's going to handle!! 😎👍
@martinsmallwood9605 Thankyou for those kind words man. As with all road cars some compromises are made but I'll Kiwify this set up to make work well 😁😎😎
I think you should know what your talking about before you comment on things rally cars with a live rear axle have four link suspension 😢😢😢
Nobody gives instructions anymore thank god for u tube and google
Exactly!!