Car Flipper Butchers Strike Again - Rotted Frame Rails Hidden With Booger Welds And Bondo
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- This Mustang rolled into Kiwi's for a full performance treatment. Coyote engine, full suspension build, and originally what looked like typical floor rust repair.
Upon closer inspection, Kiwi spotted some sloppy quarter panel fitment under a thick layer of Bondo, but it didn't end there. Poking around on the front frame rails revealed that the whole from structure of this car was rotted badly, and the gaping holes were being hidden by sloppily spot welded sheet metal patches, Bondo and black paint.
#classiccar #scam #autorepair #rust
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Sad to see crookery like this. When Tony said "theft by deception" I thought of the governments! But seriously when he said these people should be in jail, I couldn't agree more on both counts.
Same dogs, different litter's.... FJB.
@@dionrau5580 Please. Get a grip. Diaper Dawn lost.
Most states have endangerment laws, but enforcement is thin - maybe someone pleads to a misdemeanor charge [since no firearm was involved], and fines are so minimal they might amount to 5% of the flip. Strut towers don't need to be pretty, they need structure.
@@flinch622 Sadly, it will take death(s) for our government to do anything.
Possible work was done by or approved by Scottish Kilmer.
I would love to see you and kiwi go over a classic car that was bought at Barrett-Jackson auto trade .
California, Oregon, and Washington cars generally don't have corrosion problems like cars from the Mid-West and East. The harsh winters and chemicals take their toll on metal parts. 🤑🤨🚗
@@jamesburns2232 cars where I live don't make it past 10 years with out oil or something put on it . The bay has a lot of salt by it's self .
@@jamesburns2232 Depends where it is in WA. If it's on the coast you're going to have a good bit of rust. Don't get one from the coast to the Cascades
@@jamesburns2232 Nevada, Arizona, Southwestern Utah are also the best places to find corrosion free cars. Washington and Oregon would not be on my list because of cold snowy weather and salted roads. California and those states listed above are the best locations for dry year round, low Dew point weather and rust-free cars.
@@1PacificRedwood Washington and Oregon don't salt the roads nor do they have regular snowy weather in the valley. That snow is all up in the Cascades and they plow the roads or close them if the snow is a bit much until they can get them back in shape. They do rock the roads (gravel/sand) but that is it.
I'm currently doing a 1966 Barracuda 225 that was supposed to be a 5k-6k scuff and spray but with all the rust repair and and rust treatment it turned into a 10k job. Lots of work to restore these old cars. Back then, they didn't expect these cars to last 60+ years. From the factory, the primer that was applied to the unpainted areas during assembly in the plants, they did not prep the metal well enough for the primer to stick. Most of it flakes off and then the rust begins. I've done about 30 cars start to finish in my day and although it can really be a bear sometimes, in the end when we get to see the customers reaction to their pride and joy restored and beautiful, it's made some really memorable moments. Keep wrenching hard my brothers 🤘
Wow! I recently bought a 1971 Ford Maverick and I went through it with a fine tooth comb, and thankfully it doesn't have a single gram of rust anywhere on it, and it has never had any patch work done either! The car spent the majority of its life in Arizona, and the guy I bought it from owned it for over 20 years and always kept it in a garage, so I'm quite sure that played a big part
I'm in southeast Michigan where the main thing of importance to me is the condition of the sheet metal. I would rather have a 200,000 mile car from Texas than a 50,000 mile car from my area.
Even 100 miles to the south can make a heck of a difference.
I got a cheap Ford with a ton of miles on it from halfway down Ohio and after about 7 years it's still a lot more solid than any like it from here. It just crossed quarter million mark and I hope to get it to 300,000.
@@michaelszczys8316 Forget Texas, when looking for a new old car, think Las Vegas. No humidity or even rain. No hail. Metal stays as new. My 73 Mustang Mach One has 86,000 miles and is still tight. Proper steering and sturdy body. It was garaged for it's whole life so the plastic and rubber are still good. Thousands of muscle cars in back yards waiting to be discovered. My friend recently found a Roadrunner and Charger for cheap... no rust. None.
Where I am from, even a little bit more to the south helps.
My wife's car is from Findlay Ohio and even that makes it only HALF as rusted as any from around here. We got it at 200,000 miles and about 10 years old but it looked like it was only about 5.
Most of the cars like it in town had rockers already falling out.
Now it has 250,000 miles on it and automatic trans is getting worn out.
I am checking on converting to a stick.
I want to see it to 300,000
Kiwi is the longest lasting on air professional collaboration that Uncle Tony has ever had LOL
😂 it's only because it gives him a chance to steal stuff out of Kiwi's trash😅
He may have still been with Jim Bennetts hotrod shop
@@michaeladamo1188R.I.P king bennett
Its because they dont build things together
@@ole-mariusbergesen7818 funny how that works, right? they both get what they need out of these collaborations.
I wouldn't think you'd have to get it into an accident, if that car was pushed to the limit of it's ability I'd think the front would come apart.
That would come apart just cruising the streets in my city. Enough pot holes and raised or sunken manholes will do it.
Oh id definitely be able to bust that car in half in under 30 mins having a nice romp
Driving over a speed bump or deep pothole would finish it off.
Let me ask you why does it matter to you if you have a little money and was able to buy it?!
If you bought that fastback cheap,then that's your problem.
@@rollin19 ..are there not law or laws against selling on a defective product/vehicle that the seller did not say it was unsafe for the road - i.e; in need of serious work to become road worthy and pass legal certification ??
..or Mr/Mrs Hitlow, if it was sold specifically 'as you see it' then surely it being supposedly road legal, assumes a legal level of standard assumptions suitable for road usage ?
A shiny paint job, decent interior, and loud V8 makes most people think it's a nice car. Ones like that Mustang look really nice from the outside so people with think it's all nice.
And people also usually think they're getting screwed already so unless they know better they'll think people like Kiwi are just super screwing them over by doing so much work and the final bill being so high. They'll believe some shady shop isn't screwing them because they'll be way cheaper.
As a mechanic we've dealt with vehicles that we quoted, then they went somewhere else because they were cheaper, then it ended up back with us when it didn't get fixed.
Anyone that buys a car like that without at least crawling under the car with a flashlight is pretty much asking to be taken. Even an amature with the most basic knowledge can spot this.
This is why I never buy at auctions unless I’ve had time to go over the car prior. Ideally I prefer to see it in person and have it at my shop where I can get under it and do a proper inspection. Car flippers run away from me cause they know I’ll catch them
If you're too stupid to buy old cars, you deserve to get fucked every time you get your wallet out. Same as any other hobby where money is involved.
hope you raised the prices when it came back for having to undo the other shops hackjobs
@@1marcelfilms Nah. Have enough work already. No need to gouge someone over dumb choices.
This why I do tons of pictures and videos of each step of my builds. It does two things it keeps me from ever short cutting and it shows the owner it is correctly done.
I restore boats here in St. Petersburg Florida. Same thing, you almost HAVE to do that because of the "flim-flamm" going on in this business. You can't trust a bodyshop, mechanic, or home remodelers for shit.
First year mustangs are known for the front rot plus the rear shackles pushing up through the trunk. I have seen many over time. Doors popping open. Water through the cowl causing the card board glove box to rot,etc.
Had a 67 I thought was pretty good, till I looked under the plaid mat in the trunk.. couple of gallon coffee cans hammered Flat and length of 1 By 8 holding the shackle down.
My '67 fastback had cowl issues.
You don't see this in California cars
How you going to explain that to the stockholders?
The designers at Ford never expected these mustangs to become collectables, much less the icons that they've become. The idea was to quite literally produce a cheap to build car for the Baby Boomers that had come of age. One that would appeal to a young generation that they could afford. Ford cut costs any and every way that they could. They started with their already established Falcon platform and built a sporty car around it.
They were built for many reasons. But "to last" wasn't one of them. 😊These are 60+ year old cars now. And forget about the unscrupulous hack job car flippers today, even if your dealer is the most reputable car guy in the world, these cars got THRASHED back in the day. "Dogged out"... Every last one of them. Any given 64-74 Mustang has most likely had at least 10 owners. And you can rest assured that none of them were sweet old ladies that only drove them to church and to bingo on Tuesdays. 😁
My friend who lived down the street in the 70's, his mom had a 59 Imperial, minty red and white that she never drove, just sat in the driveway. His dad's daily was a 70 Newport, that car after was hit while stopped by a 4x4 squarebody doing over 50mph, flattened the rear end to the back window but he walked away from it.
This found him needing a new daily, which was fortunate they had the 59 -- which allowed us to sneak his white / blue stripe 67 Mustang fastback outta the garage and rip up the neighborhood, until we hit the garage trying to put it back. safety first or third.
ps the garage gave way, the car was not damaged, but the jig was up on our rippin adventures.
Uh oh 😂
I was a state inspector, and I would see shined up turds all the time. Several cars and trucks that looked beautiful, were legitimately death traps like this car.
Absolutely perfect looking lowered 69 Chevy pickup stands out in my memory. Brand new wheels and tires. Shiny paint, done interior, massive slack in ball joints, control arm bushings, idler, steering box, wheel bearings, rear axle bearings, twisted up trailing arms were made of hopes and dreams, with almost the entire bottom scraped off.... chicken wire/Bondo rockers, wiring under the dash that was half burned already with 30 red jumper wires everywhere.....it cost him 12$ for a state inspection, saved him 25k and a massive headache.
Friend of mine bought a " nice " 4x4 chevy. After he got it a shop put it on a lift to service it. The entire frame was bondo'ed so it looked solid. They peeled it off, frame was swiss cheese.
I've had night terrors like this. This is exactly WHY I only buy roaches and build them myself! Oh, and while I have given away a truck or car on occasion, I NEVER sell them and KNOW they are solid and roadworthy!
true, if you have the tools, talent and space, it's better to start with a roach. i've bought other peoples' projects figuring i was paying 50 cents on the dollar for parts, but still found myself uncovering their shortcuts and wasting time on those.
These death traps are no joke. When I was 19 I bought a 71 Elcamino like that. Seller showed me "all" the flaws and issues. Rust hole in the floor. "older" single stage paint job that could use a polish. Interior needed work. Carb needed a rebuild. but overall pretty solid older restoration 20 maybe 30 footer type car. I got it running better and reliable. After almost a year the pristine chrome started flaking off the bumpers. trans started slipping so I had to shift the th350 manually. Bondo under the paint started showing through and eventually cracking. Then chunks of the once nicely painted clean looking "frame" started falling off to reveal swiss cheese. I didn't have all the tools or the money to fix it. but I started gather parts and tools to try. During a pretty bad downpour I started sliding and wandering like I was driving on ice. An accident happened in front of me. a car slid into oncoming traffic and blocked the whole road in an under pass. From an oil slick floating on standing water. Probably mostly my oil now that I think of it, I drove down this road multiple times a day. and it hadn't rained for a while. I Couldn't stop as fast as the van in front of me and slid into it. I wasn't going that fast. Maybe 35-40 before trying to stop (speedo didn't work). But that car folded bad. front passenger frame gave very little resistance. Front bumper was wrapped around the engine into the firewall ( I hit front passenger headlight area. It had pre cracked plastic inner fenders, a rotten frame, and the only structure there was from the fender bolted to the also rusty rad support). dash cracked from the body twisting. Passenger door popped open. the door wasn't damaged, but the opening around the door was now smaller than the door, higher in the front and lower in the back. the whole body was actually shifted, coming off the frame, and drooping lower in the back. The van I hit had a scuffed bumper and a dent in the back door. That El camino was as strong as wet cardboard. Imagine what could have happen in a car like that at highway speeds. Fun fact many months later there was still chunks of bondo, shiny red on one side rusty crumbs stuck to the back side, sitting on the side of the road where it happened. Almost stopped to take one as a momento but never did.
To show how nice this elcamino looked from the outside, no one ever believed it was mine because of my age. If there was an older guy around people would say wow you let your son drive your classic car? People were constantly trying to buy it and wouldn't believe me when I said you don't want it. Even as I sat in it maybe 5 minutes after I wrecked it a guy driving by stopped and said hey I've tried to buy your car before, want to sell it now? One time I was parked in a parking lot next to a busy road. Eating taco bell in the bed, windows down, music up. Older guy shows up in a 74 vette. asks me if I'm there for a car show and what time it started. I said could be if you want. he called a buddy, I called some buddies, and just like that started having weekly car meets. For as bad an investment that car was I had a lot of good times in it anyway.
As long as nothing intrudes into the passenger compartment, the more the car crumples up the better. That's what dissipates energy.
today the automakers call that "crumple zone" :) But seriously, it's not fun when it happens, glad you're still around after that. dated a gal once who bought her dream car (a Shelby K car), to find out it had been built from the front end of one car and the rear of another welded together and registered in another state to avoid a salvage title.
At this point, I would suggest that you replace the entire front end with a Mustang II kit. It would upgrade you to rack and pinion steering too. I did my upgrade over the winter. It drive wonderful and handles great.
totally agree--for the amount of cash to go stock, it's worth it to step up. and if the owner really wants to bastardize this with a Coyote swap, he's going to need the clearance. Meanwhile the Coyote was designed with electric steering, so add another $1,000 to the build for a steering swap kit.
"but they are such cheap power makers!" yeah, in a dyno room....
I went to an auction about 18 years ago, maybe 19. A 50 Buick 2door hardtop came up. It looked okay, not great, needed some glass and definitely paint and some interior help. No one bid on it as the owner said at times, it had brake "issues". No bids. Just for the heck of it I bid 1200 dollars and I got it!! It took four years and two junkers from a wrecking yard and the woods and well over ten thousand dollars to rebuild. I sure learned a lot about older model, one year only, Buicks.
Brings back so many memories of patching up our winter beaters.
I was thinking the same thing. But even as teenagers with no money or skills we would've never done anything this bad. This is pretty much attempted murder
@@The_R-n-I_Guy 99.999% teenagers couldn’t pull off that quarter replacement as well
I remember winter beaters. We used to get auction cars for $150- 250, we'd fix them to just running, using lots of bailing wire, duct tape, and whatever to get it done.
In high school I welded up some holes in my beater, sealed it and painted it thinking I was just keeping the salt slop out. About 10 years later that work failed and the back wheels pushed up into the cargo area. Turned out that wasn't just sheet metal, but strut tower structure. Still my first welding project held up for a decade in the salt belt so it was a crap ton better than what we see here.
They don't call them Rustangs for no reason. Still, pretty blatant.
Reminds me of a Barracuda that burned a friend that owned a body shop some years back. Car was purchased, fresh out of a supposedly reputable local restorer and the new owner, (another friend) wanted a color change. The body shop discovered rusty frame and floor pans in the car. The owner thought he had bought near perfection, somehow this became the body shop's problem and it destroyed a friendship. Crazy thing is the supposed restorer remains in business 30 years later.
Probably where this mustang came from.
We as a collective, need to "OUT" these people with website comments and bring their names up in forums, chatrooms and by word of mouth! It seems very few are willing to name these people, or companies that sell us junk and charge a forturne to buy their junk. So sad. Look at the Cam and lifter issues for example, but no one will say the names!! Frustrating to say the least.
That's why I check the undersides of any classic car I'm interested in.
@Robert Clymer comp Cams. I'll say it
@@jonpierce734 Thanks Jon. I was pretty sure it would be Comp! They need to recall all the garbage and FIX the problem. I will never buy COMP until and IF they resolve their issues. Word of the Day: China
I grew up in Northern Minn. Roofing tar was a common cover up. 🤢
ME tooo
Still is in most of the rust belt.
yep, around here the local newspaper (which tells you how many years ago this was) gave away free the sheetmetal used at the bottom of pallets for moving around the morning paper. sly folks would grab this or steal road signs for the big patch jobs, and then slap on the 'tar and claim it was rust proofing from the dealer. and even the dealer-applied slop trapped water eventually.
sometimes, dry ice removes undercoating in sheets to reveal what's really there.
I grew up in central ME, my neighbor did state inspections and he would tell me the horrors of what he would see people do to hide unsafe vehicles.
Everytime you and Kiwi show us these flipper cars I feel so fortunate I bought an honest car from the junkyard. I really scored when I found my mostly rust free 73 capri
That wasn't a score, it was a miracle!
@@YippeeSkippie426 You mean like a Mercury Capri?..I didn't even know people collected/restored stuff like that...
Here we go again. I have to admit that the first video is the one that made me find you when it went viral for whatever reason.
Me too!
A few years back I was looking for a Chevy pickup to import back Australia. I had 3 trucks inspected which all looked good online but were all pretty bad when the checked over. It cost me around $500 Aus each inspection but it was well worth the money. That junk would've cost me a heap more to have it repaired here. I ended up finding a nice clean unit that I still have today. As you said Uncle Tony get them checked over first. Cheers🙂
I'm glad this is getting attention finally... So people will be looking for this stuff closer!!!! Thanks for putting this out there uncle Tony!!!! Have a great day
Im currently replacing a sill on a 2007 VW Jetta. Im no professional but ive fabricated two end parts, internal strengtheners for the drain holes. I've cold galved everything after using acid to kill the rust. ALL rusty metal has been cut out. My aim is a repair that the inspector won't know its been done. The whole box section will be epoxy lined and thick wax applied. I take a pride in EVERY job i tackle because i want people to be impressed with my work.
As someone who worked for a consignment classic car dealer that will remain unnamed i could go on and on into the details of what goes on behind the scenes. Tony is 100% correct out of 10 cars that would roll through the door about 4 wouldnt meet the “companys” critera and get send off. 5 would be absolute basket cases. And there was maybe 1 good deal on a good day or week. Cars would come in barely running and get accepted i got stranded multiple times on test drives etc etc etc
u should name them. why should they be able to continue ripping people off?
@@drewbiedoobie1416 i wont name them for the fact i dont want to vause any issues with my current career path.
@@burntoutonbuicks7160 business is a monster. You have to honor deceit.
That’s why I always come with my customers and insist they find a car they can physically look at
I can't believe it.... my 65 front end looks exactly like that! The car was in Vermont, where they salt the roads. I took it off the road in 1976 and stored it inside, too. I'll watch his channel....
Thanks, Tony!!!!!!
Reminds me of someone I know who bought a "fully restored" 69' Chevelle from one of the big dealers you see here on youtube.that turned out to have 2 floorpans in it. Frame simalar shape to this.
these crooks should be named and shamed
I'm betting that the horn on that Chevelle didn't work, and it was bought in the same state that UT and Kiwi live. Just a wild guess.....
@@deliveryguyrx14:27 ❤❤
This video is the final nail in the coffin.
I've been watching videos for close to two years now but rusted Tacoma frames and whatnot and I'm just not going to buy a car over 15 years old unless I get it from a Dixie south or from the southwest.
Too many other channels where rust-belt cars are just disappearing where suspension hooks to the now missing metal. I reckon back twenty years and I think my 1992 Ford Probe circa 2004 was having some of this. On the Ohio theater ramps in Chicago and I was at a relatively high speed sometimes I would hear the rear and feel the car shift laterally about to 2 to 4 inches.
What boggles my mind is the time it takes to do dodgy stuff vs doing it right. They obviously had the tools (or at least some) and still did a terrible job
Tools without talent don't matter. Talent is more important. So is honesty.
Hobo fright welder. Not enough heat. No penetration. Chicken crap 💩 welds.
THIS IS VERY
COMMON AND VERY
INDICATIVE OF HOW
LOWLIFE / SCHEMING /
UNDERHANDED
CAR OWNERS AND SAME KIND OF CAR REPAIR GARAGE / SHOP OWNERS AND MECHANICS
" TRY "
TO COMPLETELY SCAM AND FOOL AND RIPP OFF
POOR / INNOCENT /
LESS CAR SAVY PEOPLE ... !
OUR UNITED STATES PRESIDENT AND GOVERNMENT
ABSOLUTELY
SHOULD
MAKE AND PASS A LAW
THAT COMPLETELY
PREVENTS ANYTHING LIKE THIS FROM EVER BEING SOLD AND HAPPENING TO ANYONE ... !
SEVERE AND
IMMEDIATE JUSTICE AND CONSEQUENCES NEED TO FALL ON CAR REPAIR / GARAGE OWNERS AND MECHANICS AND WELDING / RESTORATION / BUSINESSES
AND ALSO
" AT HOME WELDERS "
WHO DO THIS RIDICULOUS AND STUPID AND COMPLETELY UNSAFE AND DANGEROUS WORK ON CARS AND TRUCKS ... !
INCLUDING
REALLY HIGH
" MONETARY FINES " ...
AND
IMMEDIATE STRIPPING / REVOKING OF THEIR GARAGE / SHOP
INSPECTION LICENSES ...
AND
EVEN JAIL TIME ...
AND ...
EVEN
IMMEDIATE SEIZURE AND
SHUT DOWN OF THEIR CAR REPAIR SHOPS TOO ... !
ALSO ...
COMPLETE
" BARMENT "
AND
NEVER EVER ALLOWING THEM TO EVER OWN AND OPERATE AND WORK ON AND SELL ANY CARS AND TRUCKS AND MOTORCYCLES EVER AGAIN !
Ran into this on a 1969 Cobra jet. They covered up repairs with Bondo and caulk. Looked solid until pulling engine. Had to replace entire front clip.
This is what would worry me buying an old muscle car. These cars are over 50 years old and i reckon most of them have or had a substantial amount of rot some time in its life not mention an accident. Not a problem if the repair is done right but many dont know what they are doing or want to put the time in to do it right.
Man I know cars ,and stuff like this makes me want to have like 3 of my best buddies go all over something before a purchase
You can eliminate 90% off your worries with one simple tip: when searching you ignore 80% of the price range, go for the top 20%. It’s not a tip you want to hear but it’s true.
Take an experienced body man or restorer with you when you go to buy one. Do not buy sight unseen, if it’s running ideally have it taken to the shop for a proper inspection. Often on the drive over is where you’ll notice problems. If the seller is hesitant to let you inspect it then you know something is up. Don’t forget a car that’s sat in a yard for 25 or 35 years will need work but you can be sure it was not exposed to caustic road chemicals for the entire time it sat
I dealt with a similar story almost 30 years ago and I was presented with a 64 and a half Mustang for a Vancouver policeman that he bought unseen from Washington and believe me it was a freaking Horror Story I changed all the floors fix the frame rails inner and outer rockers wheel wells and trunk pan and all I got was grief because I was taking too long. But I persevered after a year and a half of grief and listening to this a-hole I did a job properly and in the end I got nothing not even a thank you. But I'm okay with that it wasn't about the jerk off it was about saving a 64 and a half Mustang convertible that will go on for many years with my heart into it
I've always liked kiwis. Every one I've met were no bs, straight shooters with a great sense of humor. But NZ needs to appoint Kiwi as their ambassador!
Well thanks man!!
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 credit were it's due.
I grew up in the rust belt. Many ford's appeared to have the same front clip pieces. My 67 Ford Fairlane front frame rusted out. I have seen this my whole life , and it's not really fixable for most people's desires
that welding looks like it was done with a home made hand crank low voltage contraption in the hands of a blind deaf and dumb person who couldn't hear the spark, couldn't see the spark and didn't know what a spark was.
Hahahahcjnrhenzhdhwyhahaahhahahahahaha
In 75 my dad almost bought a 72 Polara. Looked great. He checked underneath after it felt a little "squirrelly" in the turns and didnt see much but it did look like fresh undercoating had been put on. He thought it was bad motor mounts indicating a hard life and wondered if things were being hidden.
He passed but a friend bought it. 1 year later the thing nearly snapped in 2. Turns out the front of one was grafted onto another after much of the frame had rusted out.
Known as a "cut 'n' shut" in the UK.
So, it's really Kiwi's carpet and cornerstone cleaning...
Kiwi is a true artist and does it right. If I ever wanted someone to do serious metal work on my car it would be him.
Price gouging and thievery are everywhere unfortunately.
I purchased my brothers rusty 65 fast back mustang in 1990.I had no clue what I was getting into. It was 'restored' in 1979. I ended up having the quarter panels, trunk floors, rear frame rails, floors, door skins, fenders replaced and complete paint job for $32.000! (That would cost $75,000 today). I was fortunate to know a body guy like Kiwi. He wasn't cheap but honest. Imaging how rotten a lot those 60s cars are now! I caution anyone to hire a professional surveyor/ appraiser to have a car checked out!
Thanks Uncle Tony for keeping dummy's like me informed!
It's such a great video, guys. You both rock and ty to bring these filthy car flippers to the light. Love both of your channels, and i am a guy who loves to work on these old Classics on our channel.
Just doing that front section of frame rail on my Mustang right now. You’ll be happy to know all rust was repaired and I used 10 gauge to fix it. Oh and I have my welder set up to penetrate properly.
A fastback with coupe quarters
It was pretty common back in the day
Hard to tell if the person that did the work simply got over their head. Or just didn't flippin' care.
Thank God they make all that metal now
I think the answer to what you propose is "yes"
How can you tell that they're coupe quarters?
I know Mustangs pretty well and never knew that there was any difference, other than the C pillars or C pillar stubs.
@@DanEBoyd Right? I've done 3 or 4, but just floors. But they're all the same from the beltline down. Coupes, fstbk., & cnvt.
They make new metal, but the crap doesn't fit.
@@jesse75 The last US stamper with Ford tooling scrapped it prior to the pandemic. It’s only a few stampers in Taiwan now making most the aftermarket Mustang panels. Refitting panels is expected in classic restoration.
The unfortunate thing is that this just doesn't go with restored/redone vehicles, it happens with new vehicles. I'm in involved with municipal contracts and inspections of vehicles as part of my job. I've seen some winners and this is on NEW upfits and builds:
1) I asked a vendor to show me the equipment that they used to cut wheel wells on their aluminum bodies. The equipment was a Craftsman circular saw (with a wood cutting blade that was dull.....). Nothing against Craftsman tools as I have a garage full of them, but this saw looked like you dragged it down the road, bought it at a pawn shop and then ran it over with a bus, then made it the star tool in your collection.
2) I asked another vendor what weld diagram/print that they were using because it was obvious that both sides of the bodies were welded by different people. The welder on the shop floor asked me what a weld print was. I said, "When you buy a house, there are plans done by an architect. Wouldn't you do the same thing when you do a body?" The response was, "Well if there's a weld print, engineering has never shared it with us, and I've been doing this over 20 years..."
3) I had a vendor that ordered a chassis and the first thing I did when inspected it was look at the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) rating on the label. When it was 1,500 # less than our contract (which i wrote) called for, no one could explain it. Well, they had to resell those chassis and order new ones. They said, "We'll just upgrade them to meet the spec". I said, "Nope, Ford doesn't allow that. New chassis". They didn't believe that. I got it writing from Ford and they agreed with me. New chassis. That was a six month delay.
4) I just inspected a truck this week with seam sealer that was still wet and my hand was full of it when I stuck it up there. The response was, "Well we set that a month ago, we don't know why it hasn't dried....."
5) I had a vendor admit to me that they didn't go through my punch list from the last inspection before I came to reinspect the truck. I said, "You had a punch list with all the items that needed to be corrected and so far all of them are not done. Why am I here to inspect the same mistakes again?" Shoulders shrugged.
6) When I asked a vendor to show me a rain gear compartment for a tow truck, they showed me the map pocket and said, "That's what our customers before you have accepted as a rain gear compartment." I said, "What does that fit, the guy's pair of socks? What about his rain coat, hat, boots and other items?" Dead silence.
7) I inspected a new Ford F-550 chassis yesterday and noticed a brake fluid leak from the right rear caliper. When I showed it to someone, they said, "I don't see it", I said, "The banjo connection at the brake hose is dripping like a river.....".
8) I would find the same ground loose on the different trucks of the same type after inspecting them and the QC person actually said to me with a straight face, "Well, it's only loose in the counter-clockwise rotation". Needless to say, that person isn't in quality control any longer.
9) A vendor did a fluid capacity/data placard four times because of spelling errors and fluids that didn't match what the owner's manual and service literature showed. The kicker was that the owner's manual was still in the glovebox of the truck and had all the data right. The kick in the groin to them was that this was a metal engraved placard that costs $400 each time that they do it---and they did it four times. You'd think that someone would have sent it over to proofread it, if for nothing else just for spelling errors.
Like many here, along with Mr. DeFeo could fill several novels with stories, but you get the point.....
Forget all those Fords and buy Rams...no messing with aluminum bodies...
So you deal with aftermarket companies that do things like utility bed conversions? What kinds of trucks? Cherry pickers? Tankers?
@@mattskustomkreations All of those.
@@dyer2cycle You cannot always do that with contracted equipment. Lowest bid wins. With that said, Stellantis products are complete crap.
Best of Gateway Classic Cars.
It also looks like it was trying to be sold as a Shelby GT350 which would have been a K engine code (HiPo 289). The Shelby would have a rivited VIN tag on the left side of the unibody a little behind the spring tower in one of the notches in the fender.
You can buy complete 65 mustang shells at your ford motor dealer, and or auto metal direct, (aftermarket).
And now theres also a new type of frame, add-on for heavy engine, suspensions. Which percool, for how old those cars are. And good luck, with a spank on the
a**!
And don't forget, mustang2 rack-in-pinon, was the standard for every hott rod around.
From the mustang guy 2u!
Ive actually seen where someone covered a rust hole in a lower fender with papertape then feather the edges with sandpaper and paint over it. Didnt notice it until you drive thru a mud puddle and it curled up. I say we find who did it and go prune their hedges for em. Lol
It’s everywhere.
I looked at a car with my older son a bunch of years ago. I noticed a V6 badge on the trunk but it was a four cylinder. I asked about accidents. I was told none. I kept looking and finally found it had been sectioned in the rear and of course the used trunk lid. I noticed some overspray in the engine compartment and kept looking. Normally I would have walked away but used it a teaching moment with my son. Besides the overspray a couple pieces of MIG wire sticking out helped show where the seams were where the front had been sectioned.
Who knows what else was messed up
Straight up criminal negligence. No regard for the lives or limbs of others.
Simply amazing, gallons of bondo per side. How does a car get that bad. Curious where that car originated...
ANYONE WHO KNOWS CARS, MUSTANGS HAVE BEEN CALLED RUSTANGS FOR YEARS... TONY ACTS SURPRISED, ITS KINDA SILLY...
Zio Tony, you are the perfect example of us New Yorker's. Thank God you made it out.
Those shock towers is what keeps me from wanting a Mustang. I love the way they look but the frame structure, I do not like.
People are paying 30k to 60k for junk like this! I wouldn’t buy any classic without, both, a complete inspection and detailed photos of the restoration process.
I saw a freshly painted bright red chevelle on a car transporter here in New Zealand yesterday on the way to work which I assume is a fresh import and I just imagined the tomfuckery that was done to it before some poor unsuspecting person in nz bought it online! Beautiful resale red.
These people get started and think they're going to get rich, because "old cars are simple and easy to work on" then they find out how wrong they are...
Someone paid for that work. I would be beyond depressed if that was my Mustang. Light rust only, the reason it is going to get chem dipped and primered inside and out of every framerail and panel with their primer bath. That is a beautiful Mustang and definitely worth saving, but DAMN! These Mustangs are made to be in accidents and repair easily in the proper hands. Mine got hit at the left front headlight. New radiator support, new fenders, one new headlight, and front valance and associated pieces, and it was brand new.
As a professional welder, I’m officially offended.
Kiwi says, "You can hear a Ford rusting on a quiet night." Pffft... You can hear 'em rusting in rush hour traffic! LOL
Great video Kiwi.
We are all being way too skeptical. This was the car some Grand dad gave his grandson to tinker with. The kid was only 18 and learning hand tools and had access to a welder... Car was found by an auto auction and brought to market as 75% restored and still made $80K.....
A Mustang can stun a crowd in many more ways than running over them.
Shampoo my rug? That would be great! So hard to find good folks to wash a toupee.
shoddy spot welds/metal patches
Another sad story.
You and Kiwi make a great team.
One of my constant thoughts on restoration of old cars and especially the custom car guys (Bad Chad, Ian Roussel Winfield, etc.) is 1. They have learned to look at the car as a sculpture and not structure. 2. They understand that there will be hidden rust that they can’t or won’t do anything about, and so ignore it. You also have the higher end restoration shops (Graveyard Cars, as an example) that dip the body, but don’t restore any of the inaccessible interior cavities with rust preventative. Because they can’t get to it. Then you learn that cares of that era basically went out the factory that way. Never expected them to be collectible some day.
Datsuns are the absolute worst when it comes to this in my opinion.
Dustless blasting. We bought a rig at my shop and it’s the best thing ever invented. We put a body on the rotisserie and we go to town. It exposes every little booger anyone ever tired to hide. It’s what saves us money and lets us tell a customer it’s not worth fixing or restoring it cause it’s too rotten or too far gone. We’ve never sent a car out that didn’t have some degree of rust preventing measures taken ( though we do advise you don’t drive it in rock salt ever again )
It’s a car built to be rebuilt and you Kiwi will build it better than new.
Considering the costs, it would be interesting to know how much it would cost to build up a chassis from complete new panels. Do people ever do that?
Only people who have more money than common sense!
$110,000
Think of the labor
There is a RUclips channel where this guy buys junk mustangs for its vin number and then builds a completely new car around a roof or a firewall. He then usually sells the rolling chassis and promotes how rare the color or options were on that car, never mind the fact that nearly the entire car is new.
Petersens Restorations does exactly that. Interesting videos.
You can buy brand new bodies for several models.
A lot of unanswered questions here, so we have to be the advocate:
How long has he owned it?
Was the price too good to be true?
Those patches look pretty obvious to any trained eye... did he buy it online, sight unseen?
It's a shame and a crime of course, but the old adage Caveat Emptor still applies.
Further comment... perhaps this work was done 30-40 or more years ago. Back then, perhaps some DIY'er had the car, patched it up in his garage. It was probably good enough to pass a DOT inspection. That's just how we rolled back then.
I've seen spray foam and tape used for a floor pan in what appeared to be a nice truck. It was painted and shiny. Until the cab came loose from the frame.
I would bet those repairs are 30-40 years old. I remember seeing that kind of stuff back in the eighties when it was acceptable. I have an issue of HOT ROD from 1979 that had a "50 tips" article and one of them was to fill dents with green florists foam and bondo over it.
even an 80's gas welder would be better than that fake china mig job
The amount of un butchering it takes to fix mistakes like that can take weeks
I've seen similar tips in old Car Crafts, compiled into the 'Street Freaks' specials.
There is a special place in hell for wizards from the woods of Kentucky car flipper hacks.
Tony, Kiwi -- you guys say that car would fold up in an accident. I doubt it would take that much. Imagine the new owner decides to take it to a track day. The front end would probably fold the first hard corner he takes.
Just went to look at a car for my sister - in - law ( suv more like it ) and this guy said it came from auction and he was flipping it. He changed a bunch of suspension parts and brakes. Very nice clean looking vehicle for what it was.
Until i started getting down on the ground sticking my head underneath. Looked good in front, good in back, but in the middle the frame- like body reinforcement sections looked like i could stick my finger through them , and he had spray painted black over the rust to help hide it.
I said " oops " , i dont think so.
According to his ad it appears he sold it to the next person looked at it.
There is something about the paint job, even from afar, that just made my gut scream "Bad flip job." I'm not sure why? Maybe because I know that it pretends to be a car that, if it was genuine, wouldn't be near what I can afford?
Haha whenever I see a clean car, I'm always suspect.
Pops buddy bought a beautiful Piper cub, paid like 60k for it.
Paint looks like glass(which is a nono on a plane you actually put enough paint on so it looks like it has color,not 30 coats and rub it out)
Anyway, in the 3yrs since he's had it , we figured out the engine hasn't been redone since the 60s so it's due.
And I peeked my head in a little luggage compartment it has ,and behind the pretty part if you look down inside with a light to the rudder ,it looks all dusty and cobwebs and just not what I'd call a proper job.
I shoulda been able to eat dinner off the inside there, judging by the way the exterior looks.
Start peeking in areas where you don't normally see, and you'll be disappointed if you expect it to look as good in there as the outside. 😁
This is the content i enjoy from this channel.
That thing would fold up so easy if it was hit. When I tell people what it would cost to do those repairs properly, 99% leave while saying I'm crazy.
I hear ya!!
@@kiwiclassicsandcustoms9160 the mustang vert you did, I quoted a similar amount of work around 20k on one and they were wanting to spend 25k on whole car. Love your shop! Drove by many times when I worked in that area. Actually had to do a brake repair in your lot one weekend! 😁✌️
Replacement panels are readily available and not that expensive, the real costs are the time and skill it takes to assembly them properly, and flippers lack both by definition. Because they wouldn't be flippers if they had enough of either to do it right.
@@danielstickney2400 well said!!
Kiwi is a good man. Not easy to find an honest auto restoration guy these days...if it every was. As for the first gen Mustangs, they were never intended to last more than 10 years. The original Mustang was nothing more than a re-skinned Falcon. The Falcon was a basic economy car that was designed to be light-weight, easy to manufacture and CHEAP. The Falcon was intended to compete with other really cheap cars in the US market like the original VW Beetle. Years ago I watched an interview with Lee Iacocca. Iacocca was astonished that the original Mustang was such a popular collector car 40 years after its launch (at time of interview). Iacocca admitted that the Mustang was never intended to be anything more than a cheap, sporty car for new car buyers in their twenties. I know Kiwi makes a good part of his income from working on these tin-worm infested wrecks, but I'm astonished that anyone would spend money trying to bring something like this back from the dead.
Someone’s gotta do it, I suppose. “A fool and his money are soon parted”. I can’t talk smack though, I just dropped 2.8k on an ‘86 F150 that I’m probably gonna have to do a full engine job on simply because I like the look of them. At least this poor decision’s frame isn’t cut for weight reduction, though…
After proper fixing what's left thats original? The roof and the vin tag 😮
It would cost about $15,000 in parts and three weeks labor just to get the car back to where the shell and frame are safe. If Kiwi's labor is $150 per hour for the welding and body repair work that comes out to $6,000 per week for three weeks with a total of $18,000 labor. So, just to get the car ready for modification it's $33,000 invested after the purchase price and BEFORE putting in the new suspension, brakes, transmission, Coyote engine, new glass, complete interior and doing the body work and paint. By the time they're done the owner will be looking at between $75,000 to $100,000 total. Ouch! I hope it's worth it.
Omg.
I think they made these patchs 30 years ago by an backyard mecanic or homemade with batteries. Lol
Beeing a backyard mecanic myself, my dad tought me to do you job well the first time so you only do it once. I welded my first trailer at 14 and 31 years later it still used every day on the family farm. I would be paranoid to do a job like that and somebody found out i did it.
Sad that people think this is okay. A person can lose their life over this sort of thing.
I love these videos Uncle Tony. You should do more of them. ❤❤❤
seems irrelevant, but things like this are what insurance sees first hand and take into consideration when insuring classic cars, if have of them are expensive rust buckets then the premiums are gonna be higher. and if they think they are dangerous enough they may not insure it
So sad to see vintage Mustangs rotted out. And sorry for people buying them unaware of the conditions they are in . I have a 68 Mustang originally sold in December of 67. Bought new at Palm Springs Ford, California, where i was born. And still live. Coupe, 289, automatic, factory AC, power steering, and manual 4 wheel drum brakes! Lol..i Bought it from the original owner in 1977, my senior year of high school. Diamond blue, with 2 tone blue interior. In great shape except the vynil top was going bad from the strong sun here. 55 years old now, Its in beautiful condition, undercarriage is nearly like brand new. Owned 46 years now, have had to put 5 new vynil tops on it! Lol. People, if you want a solid car, do yourselves a favor and seek one out from the locations that never see snow and no road salt. You have to have a vehicle with good solid bones, everything else can be fixed.
Over the years ive quit more than a couple shops that did crap.... Nothing as bad as this.
Youd be surprised whats under the 20k paint jobs on 60 k restorations....
The shop always says "theyre not gonna drive them anyway = garage queens"
Well- there is some truth to that. My friend has a '63 split-window Corvette Stingray and just starts it a couple times a year. He has put 20 miles on it since he got it in 1981.
This is amazing. Thank you
This makes me want to get to work on my 67 mustang project I've been neglecting for the last 7 years
When I bought my 69 Mach One 21 years ago, I brought my buddy, who had been a certified auto body tech, with me. Plus, he wasn't a mechanically talentless fanboy like me. We had already looked at another Mach and he found rust issues that I didn't even notice under the beautiful paint. The one I ended up buying had older paint, but it was dry Arizona/Western Colorado car. When my buddy said "this is a nice car," that was enough for me. Still have the car. Still doesn't have any rust. I guess the moral of the story is to never look at a collector car by yourself.
On the other hand, the door handles are in excellent shape 😐
That kind of work is what fits the definition of a flipper someone who does just what they need to to make the quickest buck. I'm sure you recall the used car lots of old this kind of work and a paint job on a beater. Of course this is what you have when people have more money than brains. If you don't know what you're looking at has somebody with knowledge look for you. When my buddy had his shop and he did transmissions he had a lot of classics in . I didn't care with the outside look like he had him on the rack I wanted to see underneath in the structure and the bodywork from below. A big difference between a good restoration. One that was original the just needed paint and mechanicals and one that had this style of work it didn't have to be structural uni bodies either. Just crappy bodywork that you know was not going to last at all.
Wonder how many of these death traps are out there just cruisin around
lots
And add to that number the Utubers doing will it start & drive home after 30 years 😅
I heard a local restorer was sued for poor workmanship on the frame of a car. I'm not a body repairer but was told bondo was used on the chassis that failed.
I have a nice complete 1966 Gt350 K code in my back yard with a 10 inch oak tree growing through it outback 😅 Mine still in better shape its been sitting since 1991 🤟👍
You need to dig it out and restore it!!
Why do you hate it? Show uncle Tony on the model where it hurt you...🤪😂🤣
That tree's going to worth some money one day.
@@dionrau5580 HAHAHA not my doing ..Father in laws car , he passed away. I now own both the one number matching in the backyard with the tree , and the restored 66 fastback non numbers matching car. Its a convo piece forsure 😅
@@americanpatrol4603 Yeah , I still cant come to cut it down....Anyone want some green oak 😬
Holy cow! UT said “Kiwi’s Classics and Customs!”
damn shame the scumbags who do this to people!
Wow & WTF...?!!? I've never seen anything like that...!!! Thanks for exposing the the crooks...! Keep up your awesomeness and don't forget to compliment someone today...
there's a few youtubers who could be responsible for this nightmare. i saw one yesterday said it's ok to wipe panels down with your hand to get the dust off them before painting. i told him he should use a microfibre and he said he didn't need to blow his nose lol. encouraging clownery on a wholesale level.
This is quite common with cars “restored” in America that get sent to here in New Zealand.
If they had any welds that held it was by accident lol