Another good video. Here's another benefit to your "short and sweet" videos. Besides not dragging it out with a lot of useless babble, I can watch you while on the can without my butt falling asleep. Thanks for posting.
There's probably a few different ways to do it today but that's how it was done for years in many body shops in MI. With lacquer it was even easier - just melt it in with one last thin wet coat - wet sand a bit and buff. Glad it helped you out.
Thank you your videos are easy to watch and understand you make it look easy have been applying it to some of the jobs I have done keep the videos coming
@@LakesideAutobody I've been watching a lot of your video's. My 01 Suburban has a rust bubble @ 3" long at @ 2" above the fender lip; right at top of the wheel well. The area it's spot welded to the inner wheel well seems ok. If I buy the patch panel, cut @ 6" section out, should I leave the lip where it's spot welded; butt weld the small panel in, or cut the spot welds, replace the section including the lip area, then spot weld it back? Hopefully I haven't confused you. Thx for your help
@@JMun-pu7mk Cut the spot welds and replace the section including the lip - drill a holes in the lip and plug weld through the holes. Merry Christmas :)
I just bought some silver birch paint for my 04 grand marquis. My first time and I pick silver. Not too smart but I’m just fooling around and learning as I go. This video helped a lot
Great video and highly explanitory. I understood you increase the pressure and distance when spraying the mist coat. By how much do you increase the pressure? Do you change the gun settings between tackcoat, medium wet coat and wet coat? Alternatively any tips for gun setup for the tack, madium wet and wet coat?
I think you can alleviate many problems by spraying your tack, medium wet and wet coats all a bit on the dry side. Do not worry about orange peel. You can spray base coat dry, then clear it and have no issues with orange peel. That being said, if you spray single stage and have mottling issues you will keep normal settings on the gun and on the last coat just go around twice or if it's a small repair wait just a bit for the last coat to tack up a bit (maybe a minute or two), increase the pressure just a little, move back and crop dust it. The idea is just that - crop dusting. By moving back and increasing pressure you have a better chance of distributing the metallic flakes more evenly. Basically there are no hard rules when it comes to eliminating mottling just what works for you so try different things :)
Really the only thing you can do is wait till it dries, sand out the cracking/crazing, prime (light coats as to not wrinkle more paint), block, prime, finish sand and paint. You might be able to lightly sand and paint over the area but I pretty sure the crazing will show through the clear/paint :) Let me know how it works out for you Andrew :)
Larry I let the base dry for an hour or so. Then I sanded the small crazing area with 800 grit and a grey scotch pad. Feathered it out down to the primer. Then I sprayed the area with very thin coats and waited for each to flash. Finally got it built up enough and gave the whole hood a final base coat. Just sprayed 3 coats of clear. Cannot thank you enough for Al of your insights and great videos. Lifesaver!!
Is the door panel scuffed i see you started on the wheel well area but are you moving up painting the whole door? Thats exactly what I need to do. Thanks
That's it for this job. If you get dust or dirt in the paint or if there is too much orange peel then you'll have to wet sand and buff. Use 1200-1500 to knock it down a bit (don't have to sand it completely flat) then buff. Jerry
There is always an overlap. The important thing to remember is to not make it harder than it is - guys on YT make it sound really difficult. If you can use a spray bomb paint can and get good results, you can do the same with a spray gun. Really. Let me know if you have more ?s - Jerry
Hi . I followed your videos and have my project mostly completed. I do have a line between the old finish and new finish . not a hard edge but you can see a slight difference in color . I was told to prep the area and put down a coat of base mixed with a color blender which will allow for a unoticed transition between old and new then apply clear which also has to be blended . is this correct???
There are many ways to blend paint and that is one that will work well but if you'd like a simpler approach you can do something like this - ruclips.net/video/eRXuHc5DlvU/видео.html Here's another good video on blending paint - ruclips.net/video/dv1_xO3eoLM/видео.html or ruclips.net/video/gB3Hou6k8rE/видео.html Let me know if this helps - if not ask more ?s
Great video. Quick question: sometimes I have tried to clearcoat a silver color, but the clearcoat kind of turns the silver to gray. What could be the cause?
Sorry about the late reply - maybe try waiting longer before the clear. Like maybe 1-2 hours. Could be that the clear is sort of "melting" the basecoat and the metallic flakes are changing positions, etc. Jerry
Panels that you blend on can be scuffed with either the gray or red pads (I use the red). You can clear over the scuffed panel - yes. The scuff pad work won't show through the clear - esp. using the gray scuff pad. My dad would buff the panels to be blended on with compound but in those day it was mostly lacquer.
Lets say you had damage on the door and you had to blend onto the quarter and the fender. You can scuff the panels that you will blend on with: www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/3m-scotch-brite-pro-hand-pads/3m-automotive?gclid=Cj0KCQjw17n1BRDEARIsAFDHFezt6mP5V4eO06a89WMlnuRbIv2YKo21c87omenq7O-eU-LoSQI1UM4aArbSEALw_wcB I use the red and have no issues but some prefer the gray (finer) In the lacquer days my dad used to just wheel the blending panel with compound which gave it very fine scratches then blend onto that but lacquer actually softens and bites into the old paint. Not today's paints - you have to sand or scuff. Hope that helps.
I just subscribed to your channel, you have great content. I have a question, did you put tape or any other material behind the gap between the fender and door to prevent over spray from getting into the passenger compartment? That was an excellent blend job, thanks for the video. Semper Fi, USMC.
Hello, Your videos are just great. One question: Can this be done with single stage paint? I own a survivor 1978 silver anniversary edition Corvette with factory paint, no clear. I want to keep the all-original paint, which is very decent, but it is worn off on the upper quarter panels just beneath the top edges. Fairly large areas, maybe 3 inches high by 14 inches long. . Also, the t-tops could use a freshening, as they've worn through, or the sun burned through them. The paint code is available in touch up cans, hi quality. Would your method work, minus using the clear coat? Thanks, and also, where is your shop located?
Absolutely - that's how I learned to do this. Back in the 80's we sprayed single stage metallic paint most of the time. Check this video out on single stage metallic paint - ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html If you have more ?'s about it - feel free to ask away - Jerry
Nice job. So, watching you spray, instead of going up the panel overlapping every pass of the gun, you go across and then back over the same area before moving up to overlap the next section across. Interesting. Different people get the same thing done different ways! " several ways to skin a mule", they say! You also need to do a candy paint job so we can see how to keep the mottling out of that paint job. Thanks, Tom
Your goal should be to make it look wet and even no matter what type of paint strokes, spray pattern, air pressure, type of paint gun etc. When you spray, you should be watching to make sure it looks nice as you go - if it don't, it isn't going to magically lay down and flow out for you (you have to make it lay down) - hope that helps
Another good video. Here's another benefit to your "short and sweet" videos. Besides not dragging it out with a lot of useless babble, I can watch you while on the can without my butt falling asleep. Thanks for posting.
Same here Joe lol
I really love your videos very clear and concise
Thanks Army C - have a good weekend :)
Wow, Lakeside, that looked to blend in right away!
Watched alot of vids on blending, they all seem to overcomplicate the process. This was short and sweet
There's probably a few different ways to do it today but that's how it was done for years in many body shops in MI. With lacquer it was even easier - just melt it in with one last thin wet coat - wet sand a bit and buff. Glad it helped you out.
Wow that came out like factory paint job very beautiful 👍
Thanks Vicshone :)
Thanks that helps yes some sites make it complicated I like your videos well done.
Glad you like them - thanks for watching :)
Great vid! I love it. Please give us more of that kind!
Great video I've been trying to lay down silver metallic this sure helps,
The drop coat, mist coat, control coat is the answer - now you just need to get the timing down (when to apply it) 😊
Thank you your videos are easy to watch and understand you make it look easy have been applying it to some of the jobs I have done keep the videos coming
You're welcome - glad they help you out - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody I'd like to ask you a question about welding in a small patch panel in the arch of a rear wheel well on a 01 Chevy Suburban.
@@JMun-pu7mk Sure. What's your ?
@@LakesideAutobody I've been watching a lot of your video's. My 01 Suburban has a rust bubble @ 3" long at @ 2" above the fender lip; right at top of the wheel well. The area it's spot welded to the inner wheel well seems ok. If I buy the patch panel, cut @ 6" section out, should I leave the lip where it's spot welded; butt weld the small panel in, or cut the spot welds, replace the section including the lip area, then spot weld it back? Hopefully I haven't confused you. Thx for your help
@@JMun-pu7mk Cut the spot welds and replace the section including the lip - drill a holes in the lip and plug weld through the holes. Merry Christmas :)
I enjoy your videos and learn alot
I'm happy to hear that Vivern - thanks for watching :)
I just bought some silver birch paint for my 04 grand marquis. My first time and I pick silver. Not too smart but I’m just fooling around and learning as I go. This video helped a lot
I will be uploading a video on spraying metallic paint - using a dust coat or mist coat to control the metallic flakes. I will have it on around 12/15
Looks great nice blending technique!
Thanks so much 😊
Great video and highly explanitory. I understood you increase the pressure and distance when spraying the mist coat. By how much do you increase the pressure? Do you change the gun settings between tackcoat, medium wet coat and wet coat? Alternatively any tips for gun setup for the tack, madium wet and wet coat?
I think you can alleviate many problems by spraying your tack, medium wet and wet coats all a bit on the dry side. Do not worry about orange peel. You can spray base coat dry, then clear it and have no issues with orange peel. That being said, if you spray single stage and have mottling issues you will keep normal settings on the gun and on the last coat just go around twice or if it's a small repair wait just a bit for the last coat to tack up a bit (maybe a minute or two), increase the pressure just a little, move back and crop dust it. The idea is just that - crop dusting. By moving back and increasing pressure you have a better chance of distributing the metallic flakes more evenly. Basically there are no hard rules when it comes to eliminating mottling just what works for you so try different things :)
very good video- learning as I go !! thanks ! PATRICK.P
You're welcome
Thanks that helps
You're welcome :)
Thumbs up!
Larry I’ve painted my hood and I have an area that is cracking/crazing. It’s a small spot but paint is wrinkled. Can you help?
Really the only thing you can do is wait till it dries, sand out the cracking/crazing, prime (light coats as to not wrinkle more paint), block, prime, finish sand and paint. You might be able to lightly sand and paint over the area but I pretty sure the crazing will show through the clear/paint :) Let me know how it works out for you Andrew :)
Larry I let the base dry for an hour or so. Then I sanded the small crazing area with 800 grit and a grey scotch pad. Feathered it out down to the primer. Then I sprayed the area with very thin coats and waited for each to flash. Finally got it built up enough and gave the whole hood a final base coat. Just sprayed 3 coats of clear. Cannot thank you enough for Al of your insights and great videos. Lifesaver!!
@@andrewbrown1463 Awesome!!! Love to hear stuff like that - have a great weekend and thanks for the support :)
Is the door panel scuffed i see you started on the wheel well area but are you moving up painting the whole door? Thats exactly what I need to do. Thanks
Yes the door was scuffed - you can use the red or grey scuff pad. Most will say only grey but you won't see scratches using red :)
Is that the finish product? Or do you wet sand the clear and buff it? What determines when you do wet sand and buff?
That's it for this job. If you get dust or dirt in the paint or if there is too much orange peel then you'll have to wet sand and buff. Use 1200-1500 to knock it down a bit (don't have to sand it completely flat) then buff. Jerry
Is there a an overlap while painting 50% or 75%? thanks
There is always an overlap. The important thing to remember is to not make it harder than it is - guys on YT make it sound really difficult. If you can use a spray bomb paint can and get good results, you can do the same with a spray gun. Really. Let me know if you have more ?s - Jerry
Hi . I followed your videos and have my project mostly completed. I do have a line between the old finish and new finish . not a hard edge but you can see a slight difference in color . I was told to prep the area and put down a coat of base mixed with a color blender which will allow for a unoticed transition between old and new then apply clear which also has to be blended . is this correct???
There are many ways to blend paint and that is one that will work well but if you'd like a simpler approach you can do something like this - ruclips.net/video/eRXuHc5DlvU/видео.html Here's another good video on blending paint - ruclips.net/video/dv1_xO3eoLM/видео.html or ruclips.net/video/gB3Hou6k8rE/видео.html Let me know if this helps - if not ask more ?s
@@LakesideAutobody thanks good to know a lot of different ways . I have the blender so I'm going to. Use that .
@@direct998 Sounds like a plan - let me know how it goes for you :)
Great video. Quick question: sometimes I have tried to clearcoat a silver color, but the clearcoat kind of turns the silver to gray. What could be the cause?
Sorry about the late reply - maybe try waiting longer before the clear. Like maybe 1-2 hours. Could be that the clear is sort of "melting" the basecoat and the metallic flakes are changing positions, etc. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody I guess that might be the issue.... Thanks
What grit did you use to prep the rest of panels to be painted?? Can you just clear right over your prep? After you spray color on the repair
Panels that you blend on can be scuffed with either the gray or red pads (I use the red). You can clear over the scuffed panel - yes. The scuff pad work won't show through the clear - esp. using the gray scuff pad. My dad would buff the panels to be blended on with compound but in those day it was mostly lacquer.
Thank you!
Was the door panel sanded before blending paint ? If so what did you use to sand ? Thank you
Lets say you had damage on the door and you had to blend onto the quarter and the fender. You can scuff the panels that you will blend on with: www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/3m-scotch-brite-pro-hand-pads/3m-automotive?gclid=Cj0KCQjw17n1BRDEARIsAFDHFezt6mP5V4eO06a89WMlnuRbIv2YKo21c87omenq7O-eU-LoSQI1UM4aArbSEALw_wcB I use the red and have no issues but some prefer the gray (finer) In the lacquer days my dad used to just wheel the blending panel with compound which gave it very fine scratches then blend onto that but lacquer actually softens and bites into the old paint. Not today's paints - you have to sand or scuff. Hope that helps.
Hi,is that a 2k base and clear ? Looks shiny straight away .
Yes base and clear - Nason brand paints
I just subscribed to your channel, you have great content. I have a question, did you put tape or any other material behind the gap between the fender and door to prevent over spray from getting into the passenger compartment? That was an excellent blend job, thanks for the video. Semper Fi, USMC.
I do mask most of the jamb but not that gap - glad you like the content:)
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it.
Is it possible to blend single stage ? If it is please show us !
you can...there is special blender for single stage paints( exm. Mobihell has one) or you can use clear coat to clear the blending zone)
Boyan Byankow thank you !
@@type2523 you are welcome
What is the brand of your gravity feed gun?
Matco RL80 - probably from around 1999-2002
@@LakesideAutobody. I still have my old Sharp from the mid 70s. Thanks for the video enjoyed it
Hello, Your videos are just great.
One question: Can this be done with single stage paint? I own a survivor 1978 silver anniversary edition Corvette with factory paint, no clear. I want to keep the all-original paint, which is very decent, but it is worn off on the upper quarter panels just beneath the top edges. Fairly large areas, maybe 3 inches high by 14 inches long. . Also, the t-tops could use a freshening, as they've worn through, or the sun burned through them. The paint code is available in touch up cans, hi quality. Would your method work, minus using the clear coat? Thanks, and also, where is your shop located?
Absolutely - that's how I learned to do this. Back in the 80's we sprayed single stage metallic paint most of the time. Check this video out on single stage metallic paint - ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html If you have more ?'s about it - feel free to ask away - Jerry
Nice job. So, watching you spray, instead of going up the panel overlapping every pass of the gun, you go across and then back over the same area before moving up to overlap the next section across. Interesting. Different people get the same thing done different ways! " several ways to skin a mule", they say! You also need to do a candy paint job so we can see how to keep the mottling out of that paint job. Thanks, Tom
Your goal should be to make it look wet and even no matter what type of paint strokes, spray pattern, air pressure, type of paint gun etc. When you spray, you should be watching to make sure it looks nice as you go - if it don't, it isn't going to magically lay down and flow out for you (you have to make it lay down) - hope that helps
Ur a bot 🦝