Fun fact about post '97 XJs: You can check the codes without a reader. Hold down the trip reset button while turning the ignition to 'on' until the odometer starts cycling through numbers. Then release the button. The odometer will then display the code.
I had pulled and cleaned the IAC on my '01 XJ due to low idle and stalling at stops. The low idle and stall disappeared but was replaced by a hanging idle when the accelerator was pressed. Finding your video was a godsend, especially when you read the installation instructions that came with your IAC replacement referencing that the engine will hang high idle until driven 5 miles at 45mph to reset the "brain". Thank You!!! We're good to go......
Great video! Details were clear and to money! The electrical chk up really helped with understanding that power is/not getting to the valve. Thanks a Bunch, You Roc Dude!
Missed Clock Springs issues (older mileage vehicles). Front Audio Speakers, Door Lock and Window Wires between door and body. Leaking oil filter adapter. Broken front seat console (made of plastic and if you lean on it the support will break and most Jeep XJ are broken in 97 and up) . This guy is only getting started. Should of made a list before he even got started making the video. Don't get me wrong, he came up with some great issues. I loved my Jeep XJ that I have owned (1995, 1997, 1998, 2 x 2000), but I love my Forest Green 2001 the best. Changed the interior from tan to black (sweet). Never took any oy my jeep to a mechanic. I have done all my own work. The biggest issue with my Jeep has been other driver not able to see them and hit me. Insurance companies are quick to total out.
Finally after 1& 1/2 hrs a video that shows most of the important tests on the iac sensor Even Scotty Kilmer just swapped it out no test at all. Thnk u.
Just replaced mine on 2001 Cherokee. Same problem and it too was stuck in the extended position. Jeep is running good for the moment and check engine light is off. Good video!
This is gold for a guy on a scale of 1-10 im a 5 in just man shit. volt meters scopes and car and computer stuff car stuff. We alike think differntly ! thanks.. !
ONe of the best videos on car repair that I have ever seen. Audio is right on and the video is clear and focused ( except for one closeup). Kudos to you and your video!
I just recently changed the idle air controller on my 2003 Ford Expedition with the 4.6L V8. I tried to clean the valve and didn't get any change, so I replaced it. The 4.6 repair of the IAC was made as easy as can be because the IAC actually sits on the idle air circuit, rather than bolted to the side of the idle air circuit. Disadvantage is that OEM price for the part is around $90.
Thanks for the well thought through and presented video. You've delivered the best information on the subject I have found. I'm Working with. a '96 XJ (2.5 four banger) that Ive had for over 15 years, and just failed smog.. (California.....Love it or hate it, or wish you were somehow smog exempt...) I Got a code for O2 sensors and idle control. Replaced O2 Sensors, and Idle control and threw a tune up at it. (Quality cap, rotor, plugs, and wires which is something I consider annual maintenance.) Also decided to throw a new blue streak coil at it as I could not name the year I did that last. Surprise! Old coil was cracked straight through, It's a wonder it ran. Runs better, it runs smooth, But Stil... I'm Getting a check engine light and code for idle control? I bought the Standard brand metal Idle control, wishing to spend a few bucks more and not have to re-consider new part function after installation and subsequent possible failure. Idle at start up is about 1200, and very slowly settles down to maybe 900-1000. I'm a fan of slow idle, would love to get it down to 600-700, and thinking that may be the level that enables the check engine light to go out and Pass Smog. (Insert celebratory fireworks here). I did see another youtube that instructed adjusting the length or the idle control valve plunger prior to install. ( and there was much criticism of that in the comments) That is a straight forward process, the plunger does screw in or out for adjustment, and the other video suggested Matching the adjusted length to that of the old valve plunger, thereby arriving at the correct length adjustment. Your new Idle control valve self adjusting after a few miles of driving was news to me.... but your Cherokee was 97 or newer and mine is not.... My new valve had no such set of instructions. Any Suggestions? Thanks again.....
Screwing it in or out before putting it in is not going to do anything, it needs to self learn. If you still have a high idle I suspect you have a vacuum leak somewhere or something else is afoot. Standard Motor Products is one of the few aftermarket companies I use in my shop and feel comfortable recommending. Dont get caught up in the small details. K.I.S.S. "Keep it simple stupid" is an all time truth. If it is idling high its probably getting too much air, and because these systems are speed density vs a MAF they will still run great either way. If you had an intake leak on a maf system it probably would idle like shit and run good under load. Good luck and hope you find your solution, I am in CA too and struggle with that fact always lol
Thanks for the vid! I just got a 2001 XJ and have been playing around with fixing some issues myself. Your vids are definitely helpful and encouraging (I know little about fixing vehicles).
Nice man. I'm about to drive here from ID to OR to check out a 93. My daily is a 79 f150 300 4x4, so this amc thing is new to me. Luckily, the one I'm going to check out has 10K on a new motor. We'll see tomrw. Thanks for the vids.
I'm having a low idle issue...when I unplug the IAC it doesn't do anything different to my idle speed, which is around 600 rpm, it's very low and almost dies if I don't lightly touch the throttle. the throttle body is clean and sensors are new. Glad you talked about the 2 circuits, inner and outer. I'll test those again with my multi-meter and some paperclips and see what voltage I get on them. 1999 jeep cherokee classic xj
Great video, thanks. One question though, on the video the right side of the harness was 12 v , the 2 inner connectors switch, does the left outside show anything at all?
@ around 17 mins, "hopefully that way will be easier, uh, not being easier" , that's the club we all are in lol great work guy, lots of thinking happening there
Sorry about that, I didn’t get to complete my question. It idles at 3k , cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve and passage way. Reinstalled and Jeep idled down to 1000-1100 rpm. Next am started Jeep idled at 3k again checked codes got the P0505 code so went and bought a new IAC and a map sensor since they are right beside each other. Now idles at 2000 checked for vacuum leaks have not found any as of yet. Have not checked power or resistance will do that next any other suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Thanks for the suggestion, will look into that and hope that is it. I am also going to do a thorough check for a vacuum leak again.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Hello and wanted to let you know what I found. I did find a vacuum leak on my 00” TJ 2.5 it has a leaking intake gasket, tightened the bolt and idle went down to 1100. So looks like a new manifold gasket is in the near future.
My folks own a 1996 jeep cherokee sport 2 door rear wheel drive high out put 4.0 . Originally a conservation jeep. It was made late in the year so it's also and 97ish model as well . It uses a 97 and on up TPS not a 96 TP S ? Factory wiring no splices. Started having problems cutting out once in a while or reving high and with the check engine light would come on some times . Replaced the TPS fixed it for a while and back to square one off and on same problems? I came across your video will definitely check/replace the idle control module.
Would love to know where you got one for about 12 bucks. All my local parts chains want $59.99-$64.99 with AutoZone, Advance and O Reilly on the low end, Napa and Federated on the high end.
I was given my mom's 96 Grand Cherokee Laredo it doesn't have a check engine light but I noticed like a surge, like it wants to stall maybe distributor cap any help thanks
Could my sputter and hesitation occurring in the lower gears (AT), with P0170 code that says lean but runs rich in open loop be the IAC? 2000 XJ 4.0. No vacuum leaks. Fuel pressure feels good. No test on fuel pressure. Will replace filter. Engine only hesitates and bucks upon acceleration. Code is only Pending in closed loop. Last 15 miles gives no CEL. Running better as time goes by, but still getting that initial sputter, intermittently, seconds after accelerating has begun. Great Vids, Keep em coming. Broken thumb has me JeepTubing😁
Some old jeeps you turn the key to on 3 times and then you can read the codes off the dash then google the codes and it will tell you what the problems with your engine is so when you go to the shop your mechanic can't sick you around✌️
All it does is give you a code, a code is NOT a diagnosis and parts should not be replaced based on codes alone. If you dont trust the mechanic find another one you do trust. If you dont trust anyone then you got bigger problems to handle lol
I use a BlueDriver OBDII dongle that uses bluetooth connection. Can run diagnostics when it is running, and on the Ford, can reset the codes while engine is running. I have used it several times to fix a few issues.
Just replaced spark plugs, cleaned throttle body and IAC and new vacuum elbow. Now Jeep stalls and hard starts. Now getting P1296 code on dash. Suggestions? Thanks. ✌ Doe's it matter which way the IAC goes back in after cleaned or and new??
That code is for a MAP sensor. Check that you didnt break a vacuum tube going to it or leave it unplugged or something. If not, then look up the test procedures to see if yours failed and replace if necessary!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel . It must have failed when I cleaned the IAC and removed and cleaned the throttle body? I replaced the IAC & TPS with Standard brand from Rock auto and still runs bad and still P1296 code. I unplugged it and now getting Po180 & P1296 code. I checked all vacuum hoses, good. There is no vacuum hose to MAP. Just tiny boot into TB. I did both reset code procedures, still stalls at idle. It was surging and rough at idle periodically before I worked on it but was fine. I did change a broken vacuum boot into the intake manifold. I guess I'll get a new MAP and see? If still stalls?? I wonder when I sprayed TB cleaner, may have damaged the MAP? Any thoughts?? Thank's!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel . Hi 2 year's later and having same problem! It ran fine for those 2 year's. Now is acting up again. It started when I down shifted into 2nd and the back into drive. It's power surging after it warms up and 5 mins of driving where I have to power brake it or it will stall. When it surges you can feel and hear the Trans jerking back and Forth. I'm not getting any codes on the dash display when turning the key on and off three times. It did run fine for one day but the next day it acted up again. I don't have any scanner or ohms volt tester. I bought some carb and throttle body cleaner and going to clean it tomorrow. Hopefully it's just a dirty IAC and a TB? Don't know how it could go bad in 2 year's? Any other suggestions??✌️
So I just replaced the IAC. Which I had no codes. Now once again like 2 year's ago I'm getting the 1296 code again and won't start after replacing the IAC. I replaced the map 2 year's ago too. I'm resetting the codes and ecm by connecting the two battery cables together for 10 mins and reconnecting them to the battery!! Can't believe I'm going through this again! I bought a duralast IAC for $84 lifetime warranty this time. Also cleaned the TB. Update: The new Duralats IAC plunger is frozen. Won't move by hand. Getting refund.
replaced TPS and AIC valve, cleaned throttle body. 1994 jeep cherokee country running like new again. i 'upgraded' to a more reliable name for both sensors (standard motor products). in the past i usually would go for the cheapest product, but after much neglect i figured she need a little extra TLC. from my experience, the instructions that came with the AIC say you can 'adjust' the head manually before install. it was somewhat vague as to why, but i say absolutely NOT. do not twist clockwise or other. you are only asking for trouble.
You can clean the old IAC with spray cleaner then work the pintle back in by holding it in 1 hand & using your thumb to push the pintle back in by rocking it back & forth. If it's stuck you won't be able to do this obviously. Also oil that O-ring before reinstalling new IAC. Could have also been a VAC. LEAK, I've seen that on the 4.0's.
Yes the booster is your brake assist, it is powered by engine vacuum. If you disconnect that it will cause you to lose the power brake assist and your brakes will be manual with only the force of your foot to engage.
ONE THING that pops up, neutral safety switch. LOL bypass it if your reverse lights dont light up and your car will not start. Its 300 bucks or so to replace. Paper clip works just fine to bypass under the hood. Just be safe because it will start in neutral. I only start mine in park unless working on it anyway.
I got a replacement on rock auto for like $150-230ish I think. If it is giving you issues for the lights it can start causing other issues as well and as easy as it is to replace I would say just do it. If your car is a beater thats just getting limped along fine but I plan on keeping this one forever, I dont do bandaids.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Hey GearHead, I had a no start issue and noticed my reverse lights didn't work. After googling the issue, I learned about the NSF and used the paperclip jump trick and it was a godsend at the time. I do plan on keeping my 97 xj, even though it can be a pain in the arse trying to diagnose sometimes. My son removed and cleaned the NSF and since then only had a couple probs with start up and I am sure it is time to replace it. Thanks for responding. Just seeing this now so, Happy New years since it is December 31, 2021.
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee got the code p0505 and changed the IAC but now my idle sits around 1000-1200 rpms when In park but I put it in gear and it drops to about 600 and I still have the code any help?
Not really at all, and the fuel pump is much easier to diagnose. Get a fuel pressure tester and see what it is putting out, best test is tape the gauge to the windshield and see what it puts out while driving under load. Many fuel pumps will give a good number sitting and idling but fall on their face once the engine really has a load on it.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel my 04 4.0 runs fine when it will start and it idles rough and the engine can be cold but on a hot humid day it won't start or it just seems that way and I've changed all the o2sencers and thank you for replying do you think it's my idle control senser
Hmm. Didnt mention where or how to check spec on resistance for the IAC. I'll have to do some searches myself then :/ My Haynes manual doesn't give me the info for it. 10:12 is what it is for this range of engines
Make sure you reset the ecm.i recently replaced both as well and still running rough .reset the ecm and got new battery terminals and has been running great.
While driving, I've seen my idle drop, then it kicks back up, then drops again at random times, could it be the iac? Sometimes when I start the engine the idle jumps high then drops back down while in idle and warms up. I took it trailing and worked all morning perfectly, came home, then when out for dinner and while driving on the fwy, it was driving fine then the idle started droping and jumping back up. Any ideas?
I have exactly the same problem in my "89 4.0 Cherokee. Idles at 750 then slowly drops to 500, then pops back up to 750. Sometimes stays at 750, other times it stays at 550. Rarely stalls, only when cold. Annoying. Did major tune up and new coil. No effect, runs smoother but idle still drops. Had to be IAC, replaced today, had zero effect. Gonna reset ECU with new part.
@@fredbroom5050 I did a major tune up on it too and had no effect. I did the cruiser54 steps and still nothing. I ended up selling it and bout a newer one , a 91and doesn't have that issue.
Your jeep has a RENIX system. See if you can buy a diagnostic tool for it online, it was a unique system that was ahead of its time but also a pain because even though it was fuel injected it was a one off system and no old OBD connectors work to communicate with it, and it also does not have a check engine light so you cant count flashes for codes either. Diagnosing those takes a bit more skill, but if you can find a tool for it it will make your life much easier, otherwise basically going around with an oscilloscope or multimeter and manually backprobing and checking every sensor in order of suspicion is the only way you can do it.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel yes, mine had a high erratic idle and I eventually fixed it, but I thought it was a throttle position sensor because both codes were up but it ended up only being the IACV not the TPS. These are topics that should be discussed in a video I think. Idk, maybe I know too much about old jeeps for my own good😂
@@corbinlauvray1535 Well if you ever start doing videos you will find out quickly how many things you COULD have said when you go back and are editing it. Theres a never ending list of things you could potentially add, this one was quite awhile ago but I do my best to be thorough and say what is relevant and needs to be said, sometimes I make mistakes tho!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel yeah👍, I know, I just said it because I think or criticism as a way to make things better, I use constructive criticism in my daily life and I'm guessing you do too, just a way to get better. Not trying to say your videos are bad, they are great!
Fun fact about post '97 XJs: You can check the codes without a reader. Hold down the trip reset button while turning the ignition to 'on' until the odometer starts cycling through numbers. Then release the button. The odometer will then display the code.
I had pulled and cleaned the IAC on my '01 XJ due to low idle and stalling at stops. The low idle and stall disappeared but was replaced by a hanging idle when the accelerator was pressed. Finding your video was a godsend, especially when you read the installation instructions that came with your IAC replacement referencing that the engine will hang high idle until driven 5 miles at 45mph to reset the "brain". Thank You!!! We're good to go......
Funny. I used to watch you and your little buddy when I first got my miata- and now I've just recently bought an XJ.
Great video! Details were clear and to money! The electrical chk up really helped with understanding that power is/not getting to the valve. Thanks a Bunch, You Roc Dude!
Thanks for sharing and being informative without dragging it out for 30 minutes before you get to the good stuff
Missed Clock Springs issues (older mileage vehicles). Front Audio Speakers, Door Lock and Window Wires between door and body. Leaking oil filter adapter. Broken front seat console (made of plastic and if you lean on it the support will break and most Jeep XJ are broken in 97 and up) . This guy is only getting started. Should of made a list before he even got started making the video. Don't get me wrong, he came up with some great issues. I loved my Jeep XJ that I have owned (1995, 1997, 1998, 2 x 2000), but I love my Forest Green 2001 the best. Changed the interior from tan to black (sweet). Never took any oy my jeep to a mechanic. I have done all my own work. The biggest issue with my Jeep has been other driver not able to see them and hit me. Insurance companies are quick to total out.
Finally after 1& 1/2 hrs a video that shows most of the important tests on the iac sensor Even Scotty Kilmer just swapped it out no test at all. Thnk u.
Bro this was a life saver. Video descriptions were perfect as I do not know a lot of car jargon but you were very easy to follow
After selling my preface lift XJ and have been actively looking for another one. These vids remind me to keep searching for one
Rookie mistake
I almost sold mine 🙃
Great video learn alot about my Jeep Cherokee.
Just replaced mine on 2001 Cherokee. Same problem and it too was stuck in the extended position. Jeep is running good for the moment and check engine light is off. Good video!
Great! Good job and thank you 👍
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel ⁰⁰0
@larrywarren1049 what the fuck did you just fuckin say to me little bitch? I'll have you know I graduated top of my class in the Navy Seals...
This is gold for a guy on a scale of 1-10 im a 5 in just man shit. volt meters scopes and car and computer stuff car stuff.
We alike think differntly !
thanks.. !
ONe of the best videos on car repair that I have ever seen. Audio is right on and the video is clear and focused ( except for one closeup). Kudos to you and your video!
Really detailed vid, appreciate you doing this. Learnt a lot. Thank you.
I just recently changed the idle air controller on my 2003 Ford Expedition with the 4.6L V8. I tried to clean the valve and didn't get any change, so I replaced it. The 4.6 repair of the IAC was made as easy as can be because the IAC actually sits on the idle air circuit, rather than bolted to the side of the idle air circuit. Disadvantage is that OEM price for the part is around $90.
Hey thanks for the video my 98 ZJ 4.0 did the same thing and that was the problem so got the new IAC and it runs great. THANKS
Thanks for the well thought through and presented video. You've delivered the best information on the subject I have found.
I'm Working with. a '96 XJ (2.5 four banger) that Ive had for over 15 years, and just failed smog.. (California.....Love it or hate it, or wish you were somehow smog exempt...)
I Got a code for O2 sensors and idle control. Replaced O2 Sensors, and Idle control and threw a tune up at it. (Quality cap, rotor, plugs, and wires which is something I consider annual maintenance.) Also decided to throw a new blue streak coil at it as I could not name the year I did that last. Surprise! Old coil was cracked straight through, It's a wonder it ran. Runs better, it runs smooth, But Stil...
I'm Getting a check engine light and code for idle control? I bought the Standard brand metal Idle control, wishing to spend a few bucks more and not have to re-consider new part function after installation and subsequent possible failure. Idle at start up is about 1200, and very slowly settles down to maybe 900-1000. I'm a fan of slow idle, would love to get it down to 600-700, and thinking that may be the level that enables the check engine light to go out and Pass Smog. (Insert celebratory fireworks here).
I did see another youtube that instructed adjusting the length or the idle control valve plunger prior to install. ( and there was much criticism of that in the comments) That is a straight forward process, the plunger does screw in or out for adjustment, and the other video suggested Matching the adjusted length to that of the old valve plunger, thereby arriving at the correct length adjustment.
Your new Idle control valve self adjusting after a few miles of driving was news to me.... but your Cherokee was 97 or newer and mine is not.... My new valve had no such set of instructions.
Any Suggestions?
Thanks again.....
Screwing it in or out before putting it in is not going to do anything, it needs to self learn. If you still have a high idle I suspect you have a vacuum leak somewhere or something else is afoot. Standard Motor Products is one of the few aftermarket companies I use in my shop and feel comfortable recommending. Dont get caught up in the small details. K.I.S.S. "Keep it simple stupid" is an all time truth. If it is idling high its probably getting too much air, and because these systems are speed density vs a MAF they will still run great either way. If you had an intake leak on a maf system it probably would idle like shit and run good under load. Good luck and hope you find your solution, I am in CA too and struggle with that fact always lol
Thanks for the vid! I just got a 2001 XJ and have been playing around with fixing some issues myself. Your vids are definitely helpful and encouraging (I know little about fixing vehicles).
Awesome to hear! Thanks for watching and hope we can provide more helpful videos!
Nice man. I'm about to drive here from ID to OR to check out a 93. My daily is a 79 f150 300 4x4, so this amc thing is new to me. Luckily, the one I'm going to check out has 10K on a new motor. We'll see tomrw. Thanks for the vids.
I'm having a low idle issue...when I unplug the IAC it doesn't do anything different to my idle speed, which is around 600 rpm, it's very low and almost dies if I don't lightly touch the throttle. the throttle body is clean and sensors are new. Glad you talked about the 2 circuits, inner and outer. I'll test those again with my multi-meter and some paperclips and see what voltage I get on them. 1999 jeep cherokee classic xj
FYI will be hard to watch on a multimeter vs an oscilliscope cus it is constantly switching voltages
Did you find your problem mines having same problem right now
@@guapowtheclippahow about you, Im in the same boat at the moment
Seriously, it makes it so much easier to diagnose a problem
Detail in explaining specifics is what I appriciate
Great video, thanks. One question though, on the video the right side of the harness was 12 v , the 2 inner connectors switch, does the left outside show anything at all?
@ around 17 mins, "hopefully that way will be easier, uh, not being easier" , that's the club we all are in lol great work guy, lots of thinking happening there
Really Really Good Tutorial.
Extra points for the veedub!
Sorry about that, I didn’t get to complete my question. It idles at 3k , cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve and passage way. Reinstalled and Jeep idled down to 1000-1100 rpm. Next am started Jeep idled at 3k again checked codes got the P0505 code so went and bought a new IAC and a map sensor since they are right beside each other. Now idles at 2000 checked for vacuum leaks have not found any as of yet. Have not checked power or resistance will do that next any other suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
Double check that there isnt a relearn procedure for your 2.5 TJ, not sure what they used on yours vs mine but many times they need a relearn.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Thanks for the suggestion, will look into that and hope that is it. I am also going to do a thorough check for a vacuum leak again.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Hello and wanted to let you know what I found. I did find a vacuum leak on my 00” TJ 2.5 it has a leaking intake gasket, tightened the bolt and idle went down to 1100. So looks like a new manifold gasket is in the near future.
My folks own a 1996 jeep cherokee sport 2 door rear wheel drive high out put 4.0 . Originally a conservation jeep. It was made late in the year so it's also and 97ish model as well . It uses a 97 and on up TPS not a 96 TP S ? Factory wiring no splices. Started having problems cutting out once in a while or reving high and with the check engine light would come on some times . Replaced the TPS fixed it for a while and back to square one off and on same problems? I came across your video will definitely check/replace the idle control module.
Hello, just found this video, and it is very good and informative.
I do have a question to ask.
I have a 2000 TJ w/ a 2.5 has a high idle.
Awesome! Let it be known that I will giggle like a little girl whenever I get notified that you have a Miata update video out. Take care.
Next vid, I actuallt edited it and was gonna post it then realized this one had been sitting there for 4+ months waiting to be uploaded 😂😂
Shhh....that goes for you aswell, when will you do another vid of your MX5 bud?
@@fossilfish786 We will post one in a couple days!
@@fossilfish786 The best way to be notified is to subscribe and click on the bell ;)
Would love to know where you got one for about 12 bucks. All my local parts chains want $59.99-$64.99 with AutoZone, Advance and O Reilly on the low end, Napa and Federated on the high end.
I was given my mom's 96 Grand Cherokee Laredo it doesn't have a check engine light but I noticed like a surge, like it wants to stall maybe distributor cap any help thanks
Can you show us how to fix the air flow controll knobs, it's not sending air to the windshield, so no defrost ?..
Could my sputter and hesitation occurring in the lower gears (AT), with P0170 code that says lean but runs rich in open loop be the IAC? 2000 XJ 4.0. No vacuum leaks. Fuel pressure feels good. No test on fuel pressure. Will replace filter. Engine only hesitates and bucks upon acceleration. Code is only Pending in closed loop. Last 15 miles gives no CEL. Running better as time goes by, but still getting that initial sputter, intermittently, seconds after accelerating has begun. Great Vids, Keep em coming. Broken thumb has me JeepTubing😁
Some old jeeps you turn the key to on 3 times and then you can read the codes off the dash then google the codes and it will tell you what the problems with your engine is so when you go to the shop your mechanic can't sick you around✌️
All it does is give you a code, a code is NOT a diagnosis and parts should not be replaced based on codes alone. If you dont trust the mechanic find another one you do trust. If you dont trust anyone then you got bigger problems to handle lol
I also noticed the IAC plunger on the new duralast does not move when I try to move it.
I use a BlueDriver OBDII dongle that uses bluetooth connection. Can run diagnostics when it is running, and on the Ford, can reset the codes while engine is running. I have used it several times to fix a few issues.
😮😮😮 A GearHeads video!!!
14:27 the way he looked into camera when he said "let me clean that passageway out" lol
Just replaced spark plugs, cleaned throttle body and IAC and new vacuum elbow. Now Jeep stalls and hard starts. Now getting P1296 code on dash. Suggestions?
Thanks. ✌ Doe's it matter which way the IAC goes back in after cleaned or and new??
That code is for a MAP sensor. Check that you didnt break a vacuum tube going to it or leave it unplugged or something. If not, then look up the test procedures to see if yours failed and replace if necessary!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel . It must have failed when I cleaned the IAC and removed and cleaned the throttle body? I replaced the IAC & TPS with Standard brand from Rock auto and still runs bad and still P1296 code. I unplugged it and now getting Po180 & P1296 code. I checked all vacuum hoses, good. There is no vacuum hose to MAP. Just tiny boot into TB. I did both reset code procedures, still stalls at idle. It was surging and rough at idle periodically before I worked on it but was fine. I did change a broken vacuum boot into the intake manifold. I guess I'll get a new MAP and see? If still stalls??
I wonder when I sprayed TB cleaner, may have damaged the MAP? Any thoughts?? Thank's!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel . Hi 2 year's later and having same problem! It ran fine for those 2 year's. Now is acting up again. It started when I down shifted into 2nd and the back into drive. It's power surging after it warms up and 5 mins of driving where I have to power brake it or it will stall. When it surges you can feel and hear the Trans jerking back and Forth. I'm not getting any codes on the dash display when turning the key on and off three times. It did run fine for one day but the next day it acted up again. I don't have any scanner or ohms volt tester. I bought some carb and throttle body cleaner and going to clean it tomorrow. Hopefully it's just a dirty IAC and a TB? Don't know how it could go bad in 2 year's? Any other suggestions??✌️
So I just replaced the IAC. Which I had no codes. Now once again like 2 year's ago I'm getting the 1296 code again and won't start after replacing the IAC. I replaced the map 2 year's ago too. I'm resetting the codes and ecm by connecting the two battery cables together for 10 mins and reconnecting them to the battery!! Can't believe I'm going through this again! I bought a duralast IAC for $84 lifetime warranty this time. Also cleaned the TB. Update:
The new Duralats IAC plunger is frozen. Won't move by hand. Getting refund.
Great information, thank you
Hi I have a 97 Zj no power at the IAC
Great video!!
Good job
Great video
if that part is bad will it also cause the engine to rev up and then slow down rev up and slow down repeatedly? it does it in park or neutral
Yup!
What part did you replace it with I would like to know the name brand. I bought one from Oreillys and it came defective.
Sorry I dont remember what brand now, but house brand autozone and oriellys parts often have issues.
Pull a vacuum from the engine and u don't need need the idle air sensor.
replaced TPS and AIC valve, cleaned throttle body. 1994 jeep cherokee country running like new again. i 'upgraded' to a more reliable name for both sensors (standard motor products). in the past i usually would go for the cheapest product, but after much neglect i figured she need a little extra TLC. from my experience, the instructions that came with the AIC say you can 'adjust' the head manually before install. it was somewhat vague as to why, but i say absolutely NOT. do not twist clockwise or other. you are only asking for trouble.
You can clean the old IAC with spray cleaner then work the pintle back in by holding it in 1 hand & using your thumb to push the pintle back in by rocking it back & forth. If it's stuck you won't be able to do this obviously. Also oil that O-ring before reinstalling new IAC. Could have also been a VAC. LEAK, I've seen that on the 4.0's.
Nice presentation thank you.
What is the vacuum lines that run into the brake booster is that part of the brake system that would make my brakes hard to push and harder to stop
Yes the booster is your brake assist, it is powered by engine vacuum. If you disconnect that it will cause you to lose the power brake assist and your brakes will be manual with only the force of your foot to engage.
ONE THING that pops up, neutral safety switch. LOL bypass it if your reverse lights dont light up and your car will not start. Its 300 bucks or so to replace. Paper clip works just fine to bypass under the hood. Just be safe because it will start in neutral. I only start mine in park unless working on it anyway.
I got a replacement on rock auto for like $150-230ish I think. If it is giving you issues for the lights it can start causing other issues as well and as easy as it is to replace I would say just do it. If your car is a beater thats just getting limped along fine but I plan on keeping this one forever, I dont do bandaids.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Hey GearHead, I had a no start issue and noticed my reverse lights didn't work. After googling the issue, I learned about the NSF and used the paperclip jump trick and it was a godsend at the time. I do plan on keeping my 97 xj, even though it can be a pain in the arse trying to diagnose sometimes. My son removed and cleaned the NSF and since then only had a couple probs with start up and I am sure it is time to replace it. Thanks for responding. Just seeing this now so, Happy New years since it is December 31, 2021.
hey what does check emmissioins light mean? been like that since i bought it.
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee got the code p0505 and changed the IAC but now my idle sits around 1000-1200 rpms when In park but I put it in gear and it drops to about 600 and I still have the code any help?
Might have gotten a bad part especially if it was a cheap one from autozone or oriellys. Also possible your Pcm has a bad driver.
Yea it was a part from auto zone I cleaned the old on and put it back in and runs great now
i bought a new iac valve, but doesnt work. i think there is no signal recived in to the iac. so how can i trace the right signl to the iac?
Does the fuel pump and idle control senser have same symptoms when going bad
Not really at all, and the fuel pump is much easier to diagnose. Get a fuel pressure tester and see what it is putting out, best test is tape the gauge to the windshield and see what it puts out while driving under load. Many fuel pumps will give a good number sitting and idling but fall on their face once the engine really has a load on it.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel my 04 4.0 runs fine when it will start and it idles rough and the engine can be cold but on a hot humid day it won't start or it just seems that way and I've changed all the o2sencers and thank you for replying do you think it's my idle control senser
Any reason why I would only have roughly 5volts on the wiring harness that plugs into the IAC?
Hmm. Didnt mention where or how to check spec on resistance for the IAC. I'll have to do some searches myself then :/
My Haynes manual doesn't give me the info for it.
10:12 is what it is for this range of engines
Good video
What is the name of the part? This is exactly what is wrong with mine.
My jeep idles at 600 and when it hits 500 or less it shuts its self off. You think that sencer could be causing that.
I cleaned my throttle body replaced both tps and iac and now have a high idle AND stalling issue,,, any ideas?
Forget to plug something in? Have a vacuum leak? one of those seems likely
Make sure you reset the ecm.i recently replaced both as well and still running rough .reset the ecm and got new battery terminals and has been running great.
@@joegutierrez1999 how did you reset the ECM?
Video very helpful
While driving, I've seen my idle drop, then it kicks back up, then drops again at random times, could it be the iac? Sometimes when I start the engine the idle jumps high then drops back down while in idle and warms up. I took it trailing and worked all morning perfectly, came home, then when out for dinner and while driving on the fwy, it was driving fine then the idle started droping and jumping back up. Any ideas?
I have exactly the same problem in my "89 4.0 Cherokee. Idles at 750 then slowly drops to 500, then pops back up to 750. Sometimes stays at 750, other times it stays at 550. Rarely stalls, only when cold. Annoying. Did major tune up and new coil. No effect, runs smoother but idle still drops. Had to be IAC, replaced today, had zero effect. Gonna reset ECU with new part.
@@fredbroom5050 I did a major tune up on it too and had no effect. I did the cruiser54 steps and still nothing. I ended up selling it and bout a newer one , a 91and doesn't have that issue.
They're back!
Hey great video! Couple of questions for ya. Where did you order your iac valve from and how has it held up over time?
Hey man I am sorry it has been a long time I think I got that one on Rockauto
My 1988 idles real and shakes put a new iac valve but nothing still runs rough any answer please help
Any answer if my 88 jeep has low and rough idle change the iac still run bad
Your jeep has a RENIX system. See if you can buy a diagnostic tool for it online, it was a unique system that was ahead of its time but also a pain because even though it was fuel injected it was a one off system and no old OBD connectors work to communicate with it, and it also does not have a check engine light so you cant count flashes for codes either. Diagnosing those takes a bit more skill, but if you can find a tool for it it will make your life much easier, otherwise basically going around with an oscilloscope or multimeter and manually backprobing and checking every sensor in order of suspicion is the only way you can do it.
My jeep cherokee sport 1999 the idle is one line onther 1000 thats normal.but the motor not working right
You guys need to start it up so that people can see what it sounds like to see if their problem is this same problem
What you mean hear it idle high? Bad IAC can have low idle, no idle, high idle ir erratic idle. My case was high and it had the codes.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel yes, mine had a high erratic idle and I eventually fixed it, but I thought it was a throttle position sensor because both codes were up but it ended up only being the IACV not the TPS. These are topics that should be discussed in a video I think. Idk, maybe I know too much about old jeeps for my own good😂
@@corbinlauvray1535 Well if you ever start doing videos you will find out quickly how many things you COULD have said when you go back and are editing it. Theres a never ending list of things you could potentially add, this one was quite awhile ago but I do my best to be thorough and say what is relevant and needs to be said, sometimes I make mistakes tho!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel yeah👍, I know, I just said it because I think or criticism as a way to make things better, I use constructive criticism in my daily life and I'm guessing you do too, just a way to get better. Not trying to say your videos are bad, they are great!
@@corbinlauvray1535 thanks man I appreciate it and do my best to keep learning and getting better! Good luck with your jeep!
Spec resistance for Idle Air Control Valve is 50-60 ohms --> 9:00
Helpful 💯💯
My scanner must not be very nice.. 🤣I can’t see if it’s working via scan tool.🥺
great stuff tks
En pocas palabras limpiar o cambiar la válvula iac
I changed that and still get a code 1294
Woo hoo!
Tuned up in a recent video lol your last video was 5 months ago so hardly a recent thing
Hahaha yea well this was only filmed a week or two after that 🙄 oops
Don't but cheap parts thats why people have to keep replacing things Ithats why I only get genuine parts
get an arduino and stepper driver
you broke it
Mmmm, swapped ecm and all seems normal. Go figure,,,,,
What's the ecm?
Great video but this guy talks very loud
You have a volume knob
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel on a positive note your video helped me fix my cherokee its now running good because i heard everything you said thanks :)
Glad it helped you fix yours!
Damm commersials
Great video