Hey bro... Thanks... Don't have the dito txrx mods.. That's where the learning lay.. For my project... It's crtl over a cam rig Those look like self inflicted experimental tats... I got a few... 👍
I've done a couple of radios based on your code. All works great, the code is simple to understand and my boys are really getting involved in this and we've motorized a few old toy trucks already. Thank you for sharing!!!
i have problem uploading transmitter code i get error : "Low memory available, stability problems may occur." so its does not connect to receiver...please help
At 11:00 you could simply desolder the potentiometer from the buck converter and replace it with a 21000 ohm resistor to get a constant 3.3v output. This works because the buck converter only uses one side of the potentiometer.
Beautiful project, I am building it, just received the joysticks. Had to print the case in 8 parts and glue all together because I own just an E180 mini 3d printer. Going to use it for a 160 cm wingspan Cessna 172. LThank you!
I built this project but changed the microcontrollers to an esp32 devkit. it has enough analog inputs for everything so i don't have to leave out the two potentiometers and they are 12bit instead of the 10bit the arduino has so it has better resolution on the joysticks. I imagine the faster clock speed helps also. the esp32 is about the same price of an arduino nano also. And to make it all that much better ChatGPT was able to modify the code for me on it's first try and all worked perfect thanks for the 3d print files and the base code. also made another version of this without an nrf24 using a rs485 connection to controll an underwater ROV so i have really got aloto of use from this
Damn it I was just going to build the previous version and this happened Thank you for the heart I tried the test codes but the value in my serial monitor in my potentiometer did not change , checked the connections and even all my things are brand new and from a reputated seller , what might be the problem
@@saqibsanadi5648 I solved it by powering it from the battery with a small DC to DC converter. Even the small transmitter struggled from the arduino power
i'm in the middle of your old tx/rx project then bam....this video notification appears and start to mocking me LOL, damn ...now i should get that OLED part ...and new gimbal joystick....
Instead of hot glue try goop, or e6000 with a tac of hot glue to hold it in place. It wont come unglued if you are in a hot environment. Much more reliable than hot melt adhesive. Awesome project!
Awesome! I just love how your design can also be easily adapted for all kinds of projects, like Star Wars astromech droids that need two channels for movement & head control and additional ones to encode button presses into values to trigger all kinds of events.
Instead of a 3 cell power supply and a charge controller board and balancing board, you could simply have 3 cells in Parallel and use a power bank circuit for charging and the USB output of the power bank circuit for powering the rest of the circuit. this way we can reduce all circuits into just one. also if you use a arduino nano which has a micro USB, you can use the power lines from the nano to power bank module so the USB port of the Nano can be used both as a power and Data port like mobile phones.
Which is a better option 1) using 2 Li ion battery direct with Arduino to get 8v 2) using 3 Li ion battery to get 12v or li ion with a step up module to get 5v. Joystick use 5v nrf24l01 uses 3.3 v so I think best option is to go with either 5v or 8v. I only have enough space for 2 Li ion battery. Pls tell me what is best and is there any problem with using 8v
Not the best idea to change the potmeter on the buck module as the feedback line is really important. The longer cable can pick up more noise than the SMD version. One of the rules of SMPS design is the keep FB as short as possible to avid picking up noise. Use SMD resistors instead of the original potmeter if you need precise fixed voltage.
Why you use 12v for power supplying? Would be better to connect 3 batteries in parallel, and get stable 5v from power bank module. It would be cheaper, easier to charge by phone charger, less components, and less power lost for conwerting 12v to 5v.
the ripple on this power bank modules is very high. Its better to use another cheap step-up converter and go up to 7v, so you can put a linear regulator to get 5v with less ripple. a capacitance multiplier circuit could help if you dont have one of these. For charging, tp4056 modules are good.
Or just connect the li-ion cell directly to the Arduino. The atmega328p works with 2.7v (minimum). Nrf24l01 works from 1.9v to 3.6v, so 2 diodes in series and a capacitor could replace the ams1117
Too much ripple from the power baks and them NRF24 PA modules are really power hungry. I've done the previous remote and NRF24 PA didn't get going until I connected it to a separate power as according some forums it could draw 120mA when power is set on HIGH.
I have seen the same with SIM800 and SIM900 GSM modules pulling almost 2 A when transmitting. Use a 1000 uF electrolytic caps close to the module.Across + and - Dupont wires are not suitable to work. Cut off the legs off a 1 or 2 watts resistor and use the cut off legs to supply power.
Beautiful job, dude! Really fantastic!!! 😃 One tip... Take a look at Drone Mesh's channel... He basically connected an Arduino, a multiprotocol module and a Playstation controller (or maybe Xbox, I'm not sure). And he was able to connect to a quadcopter. 😊
1. Is there a particular reason why you choose for a Li-on battery instead of a LiPo? 2. Secondly is it possible with the left stick to keep Throttle where you left it and the YAW/Rudder position returns to the the neutral position? By removing the vertical return spring? Like standard mode 2 transmitters... 3. You made a PCB for this? 4. Is it possible to set save multiple setups, so I can use it for multiple drones without changing alll the settings all the time?
hey awesome video! i love your work!! i was just wondering if you could clarify which momentary switch is in each position? The locations aren't specified in the schematic. thank you!!
Suriya Suri I've discovered most of the prototyping modules, as this bms, are schematics sources from the datasheet of the main chip. let me double check this bms board. ill post back if i find something interesting. (some time later) I made an attempt to read the part number off of this and a few on Ebay. the rebit hole i'm going down lead me to a treasure-trove of ICs on Digi-key for BMS component. www.digikey.com/products/en/integrated-circuits-ics/pmic-battery-management/713?FV=ffe002c9%2C1f140000&quantity=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25&pkeyword=isl942
in the last hour, I've learned is that a BMS can consist of as little as a battery monitor to something with many additional features including UVLO OVLO OC and include charge controllers. I'm still reading datasheets at digi-key (link above)
Nice newer version. Just for you to know: there are some arduino mega mini version, that might be able to fit inside this controller, with all the mega pinout... it's arround 8€ in aliexpress, and it could be very handy for projects like this, with so many switches and potentiometeres...
Will the VIN pin on the arduino be connected to the output of the 12.6V slide switch before the 3.3V step-down? I didn't find the connection in the schematic.
Fantastic project! I am done with the 3d printed parts and electronics, but had to replace the joystick with arduino joystick modules due to availability, has anyone modified the code and the wiring to adapt it to this kind of joysticks?
All done but not conected to receiver.....but if i use simple transmitter code from this channel it work fine, so where is the problem? please help..........
From your simple remote controller which you build previously I tried the test codes but the value in my serial monitor in my potentiometer did not change , checked the connections and even all my things are brand new and from a reputated seller , what might be the problem
Everything works perfectly but unfortunately am using 0.96inch oled display and the text not showing properly on it how can i fix the size or resolution
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Hey bro... Thanks...
Don't have the dito txrx mods.. That's where the learning lay..
For my project... It's crtl over a cam rig
Those look like self inflicted experimental tats... I got a few... 👍
That's awesome! Great video!
Okay... how about a 3D printed fighter-style joystick? And a throttle controller, if you're nasty? :P
Thanks bro for teaching us..💕
Could you please do some IOT video like MQTT or any other thing and if it's possible with some details Thx
No, no, no facebooks :) Ne-a. :)
I've done a couple of radios based on your code. All works great, the code is simple to understand and my boys are really getting involved in this and we've motorized a few old toy trucks already. Thank you for sharing!!!
i have problem uploading transmitter code i get error : "Low memory available, stability problems may occur." so its does not connect to receiver...please help
This is fantastic because on the RX side you can incorporate your gyroscope module, motor controllers, possibilities are endless. Thanks for sharing.
At 11:00 you could simply desolder the potentiometer from the buck converter and replace it with a 21000 ohm resistor to get a constant 3.3v output. This works because the buck converter only uses one side of the potentiometer.
Thanks will do that 💯
Beautiful project, I am building it, just received the joysticks. Had to print the case in 8 parts and glue all together because I own just an E180 mini 3d printer. Going to use it for a 160 cm wingspan Cessna 172. LThank you!
I'm fascinated about your manpower, because you do everything very professional, also the videocutting. Youre ideas also very great!
best transmiter and reciver in the whole world
I built this project but changed the microcontrollers to an esp32 devkit. it has enough analog inputs for everything so i don't have to leave out the two potentiometers and they are 12bit instead of the 10bit the arduino has so it has better resolution on the joysticks. I imagine the faster clock speed helps also. the esp32 is about the same price of an arduino nano also. And to make it all that much better ChatGPT was able to modify the code for me on it's first try and all worked perfect thanks for the 3d print files and the base code. also made another version of this without an nrf24 using a rs485 connection to controll an underwater ROV so i have really got aloto of use from this
Damn it
I was just going to build the previous version and this happened
Thank you for the heart
I tried the test codes but the value in my serial monitor in my potentiometer did not change , checked the connections and even all my things are brand new and from a reputated seller , what might be the problem
lmao i know right
Did you managed to solve the problem ? I got the same issue.
@@bukkeiedwin2125 try changing it to low in the code of transmitter
@@saqibsanadi5648 I solved it by powering it from the battery with a small DC to DC converter. Even the small transmitter struggled from the arduino power
@@saqibsanadi5648 How??? please tell me...........
i'm in the middle of your old tx/rx project then bam....this video notification appears and start to mocking me LOL, damn ...now i should get that OLED part ...and new gimbal joystick....
Instead of hot glue try goop, or e6000 with a tac of hot glue to hold it in place. It wont come unglued if you are in a hot environment. Much more reliable than hot melt adhesive. Awesome project!
Best electronic channel.
Wounderful work.👍👍👍👍👍
After trial and error.......now it's work........thanks bro......
Awesome! I just love how your design can also be easily adapted for all kinds of projects, like Star Wars astromech droids that need two channels for movement & head control and additional ones to encode button presses into values to trigger all kinds of events.
This is awesome. I wish i had this project during engineering.
Looks neat. I like the design of the radio controller
Instead of a 3 cell power supply and a charge controller board and balancing board, you could simply have 3 cells in Parallel and use a power bank circuit for charging and the USB output of the power bank circuit for powering the rest of the circuit. this way we can reduce all circuits into just one. also if you use a arduino nano which has a micro USB, you can use the power lines from the nano to power bank module so the USB port of the Nano can be used both as a power and Data port like mobile phones.
great job, i think you are the best electronic youtuber!
also electronoob is now electropro
you made those projects that we want.
Now great Scott is not uploading projects like yours
Which is a better option 1) using 2 Li ion battery direct with Arduino to get 8v 2) using 3 Li ion battery to get 12v or li ion with a step up module to get 5v. Joystick use 5v nrf24l01 uses 3.3 v so I think best option is to go with either 5v or 8v. I only have enough space for 2 Li ion battery. Pls tell me what is best and is there any problem with using 8v
Not the best idea to change the potmeter on the buck module as the feedback line is really important. The longer cable can pick up more noise than the SMD version. One of the rules of SMPS design is the keep FB as short as possible to avid picking up noise. Use SMD resistors instead of the original potmeter if you need precise fixed voltage.
What a great job. And fantastic to share it all. Thanks.
Why you use 12v for power supplying?
Would be better to connect 3 batteries in parallel, and get stable 5v from power bank module. It would be cheaper, easier to charge by phone charger, less components, and less power lost for conwerting 12v to 5v.
the ripple on this power bank modules is very high. Its better to use another cheap step-up converter and go up to 7v, so you can put a linear regulator to get 5v with less ripple. a capacitance multiplier circuit could help if you dont have one of these. For charging, tp4056 modules are good.
Or just connect the li-ion cell directly to the Arduino. The atmega328p works with 2.7v (minimum). Nrf24l01 works from 1.9v to 3.6v, so 2 diodes in series and a capacitor could replace the ams1117
Too much ripple from the power baks and them NRF24 PA modules are really power hungry. I've done the previous remote and NRF24 PA didn't get going until I connected it to a separate power as according some forums it could draw 120mA when power is set on HIGH.
@@MrHristoB Ripples reduce very easily. By LC lowpass filter. There is only two components.
I have seen the same with SIM800 and SIM900 GSM modules pulling almost 2 A when transmitting. Use a 1000 uF electrolytic caps close to the module.Across + and - Dupont wires are not suitable to work. Cut off the legs off a 1 or 2 watts resistor and use the cut off legs to supply power.
You are really doing great work 😀😀
you and greatscoot both are the best professionals love you
Coba ditambah DFmini Player + aktifkan 2 potensio untuk aileron dan volume DFplayer
Boom boom really very nice project I really need this project make for my little baby girl
Beautiful job, dude! Really fantastic!!! 😃
One tip... Take a look at Drone Mesh's channel... He basically connected an Arduino, a multiprotocol module and a Playstation controller (or maybe Xbox, I'm not sure). And he was able to connect to a quadcopter. 😊
Thanks! I'll do that!
Very well done. You’re projects are very interesting. Thanks for sharing!
You're only the hope
it looks cool, yo give me the desire to build one since when i follow your previous tutorial. cest tres bien
1. Is there a particular reason why you choose for a Li-on battery instead of a LiPo?
2. Secondly is it possible with the left stick to keep Throttle where you left it and the YAW/Rudder position returns to the the neutral position?
By removing the vertical return spring? Like standard mode 2 transmitters...
3. You made a PCB for this?
4. Is it possible to set save multiple setups, so I can use it for multiple drones without changing alll the settings all the time?
hey awesome video! i love your work!! i was just wondering if you could clarify which momentary switch is in each position? The locations aren't specified in the schematic. thank you!!
Awesome project......can you make diy BMS or explain the working ?????
Suriya Suri I've discovered most of the prototyping modules, as this bms, are schematics sources from the datasheet of the main chip. let me double check this bms board. ill post back if i find something interesting. (some time later) I made an attempt to read the part number off of this and a few on Ebay. the rebit hole i'm going down lead me to a treasure-trove of ICs on Digi-key for BMS component. www.digikey.com/products/en/integrated-circuits-ics/pmic-battery-management/713?FV=ffe002c9%2C1f140000&quantity=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25&pkeyword=isl942
in the last hour, I've learned is that a BMS can consist of as little as a battery monitor to something with many additional features including UVLO OVLO OC and include charge controllers. I'm still reading datasheets at digi-key (link above)
5 part series by texas instrument :) www.digikey.com/en/ptm/t/texas-instruments/introduction-to-battery-management-part-1/tutorial
@@richstaubin333 thanks a lot
Please make a video on how to upgrade this transmitter to 10ch.
It's a great project but I have one suggestion for u that upgrade it to support multiprotocol so it can bind with any Rx..
Plz upload the complete making of the transmitter and receiver and also the circuit diagram
That was I am saying about .excellent work bro.
Nice newer version. Just for you to know: there are some arduino mega mini version, that might be able to fit inside this controller, with all the mega pinout... it's arround 8€ in aliexpress, and it could be very handy for projects like this, with so many switches and potentiometeres...
Thank you!
Very good transmitter. It would be perfect if it had ppm output.
Very nice Videos you make man. God bless you. simply amazing tutorials and detailed work....
its very nice project ! 👊 i have no words because its awesome, perfect !!!
Hi sir , how to bind each other
Thank you bro... I appreciate that
Nice... Never stop creating :)
Wow... Nice project.
The Nano can supply 50mA, while the NRF24L01+ draws at most 13.5mA of current. Why do you need the external supply?
Thank for video sir really appreciative that a video I am looking for.
It's related to my last year mini projects
can you add the mpu6050 to radio control bord?
1: Which receiver will be better for RC car? ... PWM or PPM
2: Can we use Simple Joy Stick in this transmitter?
Will the VIN pin on the arduino be connected to the output of the 12.6V slide switch before the 3.3V step-down? I didn't find the connection in the schematic.
I had the same question and I think this is indeed where it should be connected
Can i make it without Connecting OLED Display
Does it work without OLED Dislay?
What is difference between ppm and pwm transmition
i am working on a project for agriculture robot for seed sowing i really needed this
I am a self-made artist from Russia .Thanks !
@electronoobs Wonderful your project, but was a doubt, do you have the function of servo reverse?
good
حقا مبدع 👍👌👌
Thank you for this really good tutorial. I would like to know what people use the potentiometers for?
I use my potentiometers for controlling a couple of mosfets to dim some led lights
it takes a lot of time for creating videos right? u are legend
very impressive
Fantastic project!
I am done with the 3d printed parts and electronics, but had to replace the joystick with arduino joystick modules due to availability, has anyone modified the code and the wiring to adapt it to this kind of joysticks?
Cool. Maybe you could convert a PC Joystick to perform the same task. 👍
All done but not conected to receiver.....but if i use simple transmitter code from this channel it work fine, so where is the problem? please help..........
Está guapa guapa la carcasa... y el proyecto, que lo tengo en mente hacer.
this is amazing project ...
Good job !
What is the range of this transmitter ?
1100 meter nrf range...this is long range nrf trancmitter and rciver ...
Nice radio controller.....
QnA????
This is very interesting! Thanks for sharing!
Sir can you please provide a tutorial on how to receive and send multiple sensors data between two nrf24l01 module..
What is the range of it???
Bro U R NEXT LEVEL BRO::::::
AWESOME BROB$$$$$$
Another great video.
Good day bro can i attach L2938N module to the receiver. the project is awesome
Transmitter_code.ino:102:2: error: #error ("Height incorrect, please fix this in the Adafruit_SSD1306.h!");
nice vid bro, it is awesome. Which 3d printer are you using to print those parts?
From your simple remote controller which you build previously I tried the test codes but the value in my serial monitor in my potentiometer did not change , checked the connections and even all my things are brand new and from a reputated seller , what might be the problem
I am also trying to make a remote controller for my quadcopter.. Thank you 🥰
Hey nice work but the oled display height is too large how to reduce it. Please help.
YOU'RE AWESOME!
Awsome achievement
hey, please let me know what will be the range if I use nrf24l01 in a drone build. thanks you in advance.
Hey, please try to make micro gps tracker (like micro chip)
if possible ....
After several plugs and unplugs of DC jack the adapter will fall inside, so you should better use super glue and sodium, not hot glue.
Everything works perfectly but unfortunately am using 0.96inch oled display and the text not showing properly on it how can i fix the size or resolution
Make one with telemetric !!! It was Awsome !!!
Very good 👍 Excellent 👍
How do you design precise Parts in Blender?
Nice project.how many range this work???
Hi Sir, Can we use atmega2560 to get more channels. And Thanks for this awesome project.
Nice job
THANKS BRO
If I use 8v so do I need to change the value of 20k resistor
Saludos desde Ecuador
Instead of using the NRF24, could I connect a FrSky module so this transmits to my Frsky Receivers?
Can i use 1 cell battery for transmitter power supply?
Is there a difference between a BMS and a charging BMS? Because I only have the ones that are labeled BMS only (no mention of charging).
Amigo as en español lo mismo no entiendo nada está excelente ese proyecto
everything is working fine tx and rx but they are not connected...
what's wrong please help