"Why didn't you include alignment pins in your drawing?" "Who would ever take it apart after it's built?" "Perhaps a machinist who needs to fix something." "Yeah, but what are the chances a machinist is going to buy this?" "You sold it as a rough-cast kit." "Oh, right."
Ha! Nailing non critical measurements is like welding. The best looking weld is always not seen in the finished part. And thank you for making this video and narrating with your calming H.R. voice.
I worked with pipe welders before my current career field. I wouldn't say all the best looking welds don't get seen, but thats only because that's what those guys do 12 hours a day 6 or 7 days a week, every one of their welds comes out looking like ice water in the Sahara.
One of the things I like most about this channel is the length at which you go to hold a part and how you explain why this way is needed this time vs how you did it last time. I appreciate that nuance being an outsider. Whenever I finally get to use a lathe or a mill someday, I will surely remember the lessons I've learned about the importance of holding the work properly, securely, and with order of operations in mind. Earned a sub.
As far as a design that “lacked” alignment pins, they probably best things to meet things, and then locked them down. If you can’t make it perfect, make it adjustable. If you make it adjustable, make it lockable.
As a machinist myself I've been watching your videos for some time now and I really like your way of thinking. setting up a part is the most challenging part of machining and you're doing a great job as such.
Hi Quinn, When machining shallow bosses, try machining future pressure pads slightly larger than the finish size of the boss so you can use the pressure pad OD for measuring with a micrometer, for future reference of course. :-) I've used the above method in the past with good results but whatever works for you works. Nice work BTW :-)
As per another comment. Taper pins are a more satisfactory method of capturing alignments, in my past life we aligned several thousand horse power engines to large free standing many ton flywheels and generators to 0.0005” running concentricity and locked them in with 3/8 tapered pins, with withdrawing holes tapped into the end, for repeatable maintenance procedures. Also, if you have a rotating center with interchangeable points, use a ball in place of the pointed tip to hold the pressure pad, this will then self align and hold the part more securely. Great series and I look forward to its completion and first run. Take care.
Really nice to see a machinist (engineer) accurately machine all the parts to a steam engine. I've watched Keith Appleton measure with match sticks and hammer handles while using his (calibrated eye) to align things so long I was beginning to think steam engines were supposed to built sloppily.
To be fair, Keith isn’t actually “building” steam engines, only just repairing them. Plus, he’s been calibrating that eye ever since they invented steam, so it seems to work very well for his purposes. Lastly, while it’s nice watching someone do the work with a machinist’s keen eye for tolerances, steam engines really do require a good deal less precision to run than an internal combustion engine. Granted, the higher the level of precision, the more efficiently a steam engine will run, but it will still run with a great deal of “slop” in the moving parts.
Another great episode! A machinist's best friend is a hammer. Of course, it has to be a special precision machinist's hammer to get those great results. Nothing to do with skills and practice.
Supere job with all aspects such as fore planning, measuring, dialing in, machining, terminology, videographys, editing and voice over. Many other RUclips creators could learn from you.
You have no idea how happy I am to see those alignment pins. The only thing that could make me happier would be if they were TAPER PINS. Straight pins always have some clearance; taper pins get driven in until there is no clearance. It's not too late; but you would have to through-drill the feet of the frame to have access to both ends of those holes. For long drills (and reamers), you need a system where you can make ad hoc extensions at a moment's notice from any rod you have handy. I have such a system, but although it is quick enough to execute, it is a bit complicated to describe in a comment. I'd be happy to discuss it with you (or anyone else interested).
What a lovely combination of precision, strategy, humour and humility. I feel for every mistake, blunder and miscalculation but ultimately for the sheer pleasure of producing components that fit into a functional machine. It is great watching your videos and your narrative adds so much more. Best wishes
@26:45, you could have left the tailstock boss a bit large, turned the tailstock boss at the same time as the part, then measured further out. Granted it's aluminum vs cast, but would get you quite close before final fitment.
Ah, I see I still have lots to learn from you about machining, Quinn. Cuz I would have guessed the reason for not spot facing and drilling in the same setup would have been “because shut up, that’s why.” :D
You'll need to make a go-kart to mount that steam engine on now Quinn !!!! and a boiler that can keep it pressurized too ! it's going to go through alot of steam !!! good work as always ! thank you !
Awesome work as always, Quinn. The alignment pins are a very good idea... Given how complete the plans seem to be, I'm genuinely surprised they're not an included feature. In this, as in all your videos, I enjoy and appreciate you taking us through both the forethought and hindsight of your thought process.
Good move,pinning the parts.Many years ago, I built a Tiny Power “M” side crank engine with a Stevenson’s reversing link. I soon realized,if I ever needed to work on it,reassembly would be a nightmare. I decided to to do what you did. You won’t regret it.
That little thread that you added to the middle plate on much bigger engines is called the stuffing box. A very long time ago when I was just learning about large 2 stroke diesel engines, I fell asleep inside the stuff box area whilst doing a cylinder change-out. Yes the area was large enough to get inside and install the springs and seals. Funny little story on crosshead engines. Engine in question was a Sulzer RND90
Das wird eine sehr große Maschine. Ich bin beeindruckt von Ihrer Arbeit und Vorgehensweise. Ich warte wie viele andere hier auf Ihr neues Video jeden Samstag. Ihre Videos helfen mir auch bei meinem Bau von Dampfmaschinenmodelle. So kann ich noch viel von Ihnen lernen. Danke dafür. Bleiben Sie gesund. Liebe Grüße aus Hamburg / Deutschland
Noticed that some of your super glue at 14:11 was still wet. Next time you use super glue accelerator on one piece and glue on other, you will get complete bonding. Super glue is activated by moisture, no moisture no activation, also storing super glue in your refrigerator will extend its life tremendously
I'm really enjoying this build. And...........I too was using adult language when the glue failed, was a natural reaction for me even watching you. Thanks for sharing.
@Blondihacks I really do enjoy your videos and I’d even been motivated to start shopping for a lathe. As a woodworker, it’s not lost on me when you talk about machining being about precision then you eyeball stuff. Lol. Keep up the great work.
Quinn, I am so addicted to your videos! Your knowledge, workmanship and delivery of information it top notch! You blew my mind with the blind hole alignment pins! And then offsetting them so the parts will only go back together one way! I love the way you put together and execute your order of operation. Great work!
At 11:10, toget an idea of contact before using superglue, try pre-pressing with silly putty first to determine contact points, where the silly putty is thin would indicate closest contact. Removing the silly putty from the casting surface completely before superglue might be tricky.
Hi Quinn, Your patience, coupled with your drive for perfection, really is a salutary lesson for all budding machinists. Your fixturing ideas are great too. Thank you for doing all this. Regards Robert (Sydney, Australia)
I genuinely love this channel so much. I'm not even a hobby machinist, because I already have too many hobbies, and as much as it appealed to me in college, I didn't change my major to do more of it, because aviation was my dream. I still catch as many of your videos as I can because of your humor, and the sheer relaxation that comes from watching you do these machining projects! Thanks for making these!
I hope you're really enjoying building this, I built one of similar size, an "ajax" by "tiny power" about twenty years ago, and enjoyed it thoroughly, it's a real attention getter. I've enjoyed watching you so far. That's a real nice job, establishing the alignment pins, a very good plan. I gotta say, I love the sheen of cast iron, fresh machined. That is going to be one fine looking vertical steam engine. Thanks for sharing!
Quinn, thanks for another great video. I think this episode epitomises why all us 'backyard engineers' do what we do; it is the problem solving and having to think on our feet to complete the job as efficiently (not always) as possible that gives us the enjoyment factor even though there is an occasional curve ball thrown.
I watched all of your previous Model Steam Engine videos and am now enjoying this series. You might be interested in a recent CrusingTheCut video: A steam-driven narrowboat on the British canals. All the best.
thoughts on straight pins vs taper pins for alignment? I guess having the tool steel and having to turn them yourself lends to using straight pins. Looks so good! If anyone sees a partially blended face, no you didn't. 😁
One bit of constructive criticism: when dealing with dowel pins, when possible make the press/loctite side a through hole. That way if you ever break a pin, it's easy to hammer it out without having to drill/EDM/etc. to get the pressed in half out.
10:02 trepanning practice? Is Quinn practicing surgery in her garage? Is she relieving intracranial pressure or allowing evil demons to escape? so many questions ...
When you use the tailstock like that, it helps to either super glue or use double stick tape to put a piece of emery cloth on the drive part. The emery cloth id slightly soft and makes up for uneven surfaces. use automotive wet-dry paper for plastic parts or precision parts. good video, as usual. Oh, ya, use the thin 3m tape for smoother parts and more precision. I've been doing it with tape and super glue for a looong time. thanks for your videos.
It's hard to believe that an actual tapping operation doesn't elicit a "tappy tap tap", just for fun! Well, I said it in my head and it was fun for me. 🙂
Alignment pins -- along with the lucid explanation for their use -- much appreciated, Quinn. Beautiful video.
"This is not a critical dimension, so of course I nailed it" Cracked me up. Thank you Quinn, I learn so much here.
"70% of the time it never lets me down." Made may day 🙂
That 30% loomed again!
"Why didn't you include alignment pins in your drawing?"
"Who would ever take it apart after it's built?"
"Perhaps a machinist who needs to fix something."
"Yeah, but what are the chances a machinist is going to buy this?"
"You sold it as a rough-cast kit."
"Oh, right."
Ha! Nailing non critical measurements is like welding. The best looking weld is always not seen in the finished part.
And thank you for making this video and narrating with your calming H.R. voice.
I worked with pipe welders before my current career field. I wouldn't say all the best looking welds don't get seen, but thats only because that's what those guys do 12 hours a day 6 or 7 days a week, every one of their welds comes out looking like ice water in the Sahara.
I love the humor Quinn…”nothing to see here”.
The time you put into these productions must be immense.
Great job, Quinn. It's looking more like a steam engine every episode!
Haven't finished but your intro just made me think "in the business, we call this foreshadowing."
One of the things I like most about this channel is the length at which you go to hold a part and how you explain why this way is needed this time vs how you did it last time. I appreciate that nuance being an outsider. Whenever I finally get to use a lathe or a mill someday, I will surely remember the lessons I've learned about the importance of holding the work properly, securely, and with order of operations in mind.
Earned a sub.
I would add alignment pins to the "separates us from the animals" adage 🤣
And also the fact that we’re not afraid of the vacuum cleaner.
Personally, I'd add that they're "what separate us from the other animals" but that's because I'm a friggin nerd lol
As far as a design that “lacked” alignment pins, they probably best things to meet things, and then locked them down.
If you can’t make it perfect, make it adjustable. If you make it adjustable, make it lockable.
I fully agree with pinning those parts. Wise decision!
The only real machining content today while Abom drills holes for shelves
As a machinist myself I've been watching your videos for some time now and I really like your way of thinking. setting up a part is the most challenging part of machining and you're doing a great job as such.
Very satisfying to see it all carefully aligned. My granddad woulda just eyeballed it while working through a case of Budweisers.
sounds like a cool grand dad :D
@@markl1604 a lack of dehydration?
Hi Quinn,
When machining shallow bosses, try machining future pressure pads slightly larger than the finish size of the boss so you can use the pressure pad OD for measuring with a micrometer, for future reference of course. :-)
I've used the above method in the past with good results but whatever works for you works.
Nice work BTW :-)
Thanks!
Nice. I like the pressure turning fixture. And now that you're done, you have a tiny, little disk sander 😉
"I really have no other explanation for this, other than I didn't think of it". And that is why I love you.
"because chamfers are what separate us from the animals" made me laugh out loud
Damn, that thing is big!
One word: pinstripes.
Thanks, patrons.
Very smart on dialing in the face. 👍🏻. Always learn new tricks from Quinn.
As per another comment. Taper pins are a more satisfactory method of capturing alignments, in my past life we aligned several thousand horse power engines to large free standing many ton flywheels and generators to 0.0005” running concentricity and locked them in with 3/8 tapered pins, with withdrawing holes tapped into the end, for repeatable maintenance procedures.
Also, if you have a rotating center with interchangeable points, use a ball in place of the pointed tip to hold the pressure pad, this will then self align and hold the part more securely.
Great series and I look forward to its completion and first run.
Take care.
As always you inspire the hobbyist to really do some professional machining!
Watching you work makes me feel okay for being human, yet your machining is lovely as ever! The engine is coming along wonderfully!
I am not a machinist, but I can not stop watching your progress on this project.
I second this. I am also not a machinist, but I really enjoy learning how things are made and I enjoy seeing how mistakes are handled.
@@quintrankid8045 It gives me confidence to make a mistake, it can be fun fixing it.
Really nice to see a machinist (engineer) accurately machine all the parts to a steam engine. I've watched Keith Appleton measure with match sticks and hammer handles while using his (calibrated eye) to align things so long I was beginning to think steam engines were supposed to built sloppily.
To be fair, Keith isn’t actually “building” steam engines, only just repairing them. Plus, he’s been calibrating that eye ever since they invented steam, so it seems to work very well for his purposes.
Lastly, while it’s nice watching someone do the work with a machinist’s keen eye for tolerances, steam engines really do require a good deal less precision to run than an internal combustion engine. Granted, the higher the level of precision, the more efficiently a steam engine will run, but it will still run with a great deal of “slop” in the moving parts.
Another great episode! A machinist's best friend is a hammer. Of course, it has to be a special precision machinist's hammer to get those great results. Nothing to do with skills and practice.
From a maintenance engineers point of view, well done for adding the alignment pins.
"Scoundrel Blend" A++ YES
I love the way you think out of the box !! Thank you for your time and great videos !!
Supere job with all aspects such as fore planning, measuring, dialing in, machining, terminology, videographys, editing and voice over. Many other RUclips creators could learn from you.
You have no idea how happy I am to see those alignment pins. The only thing that could make me happier would be if they were TAPER PINS. Straight pins always have some clearance; taper pins get driven in until there is no clearance. It's not too late; but you would have to through-drill the feet of the frame to have access to both ends of those holes.
For long drills (and reamers), you need a system where you can make ad hoc extensions at a moment's notice from any rod you have handy. I have such a system, but although it is quick enough to execute, it is a bit complicated to describe in a comment. I'd be happy to discuss it with you (or anyone else interested).
Well, I was watching a different blondiehacks video about tolerances and now I’m here. 5 stars
What a lovely combination of precision, strategy, humour and humility. I feel for every mistake, blunder and miscalculation but ultimately for the sheer pleasure of producing components that fit into a functional machine.
It is great watching your videos and your narrative adds so much more.
Best wishes
70% of the time it never lets me down……..thank you for that!
@26:45, you could have left the tailstock boss a bit large, turned the tailstock boss at the same time as the part, then measured further out.
Granted it's aluminum vs cast, but would get you quite close before final fitment.
Isn't this timestamp just the end of the video? Uhm... why? :) :)
Every time you make a part for your engine I remember my Grandfather in his workshop :-)
Ah, I see I still have lots to learn from you about machining, Quinn. Cuz I would have guessed the reason for not spot facing and drilling in the same setup would have been “because shut up, that’s why.” :D
Beyond informative you’re delightfully entertaining, Quinn. Thanks for sharing.
Can’t wait to see the final product.
Very smart way to hold those parts nice going
You'll need to make a go-kart to mount that steam engine on now Quinn !!!! and a boiler that can keep it pressurized too ! it's going to go through alot of steam !!!
good work as always ! thank you !
of course you COULD put it in a little motor-scooter...too... that would be something to see ! only one of it's kind LOL....
Ouch!, great recovery Quinn.
Nice high quality work, and excellent techniques.
thanks for sharing.
Love the attention to details, so enjoying this series!
Awesome work as always, Quinn. The alignment pins are a very good idea... Given how complete the plans seem to be, I'm genuinely surprised they're not an included feature.
In this, as in all your videos, I enjoy and appreciate you taking us through both the forethought and hindsight of your thought process.
What's that, woodworking tools saving the day? :D
This has become best part of my weekend. And now I’m looking for everything in my shop that could use alignment pins.
@@username34159265 yeah I have McMaster boxes galore of dowel pins. Very useful. They make great tiny shafts in a pinch.
Voron lathe with alignment pins when?:P
Good move,pinning the parts.Many years ago, I built a Tiny Power “M” side crank engine with a Stevenson’s reversing link. I soon realized,if I ever needed to work on it,reassembly would be a nightmare. I decided to to do what you did. You won’t regret it.
That little thread that you added to the middle plate on much bigger engines is called the stuffing box. A very long time ago when I was just learning about large 2 stroke diesel engines, I fell asleep inside the stuff box area whilst doing a cylinder change-out. Yes the area was large enough to get inside and install the springs and seals. Funny little story on crosshead engines. Engine in question was a Sulzer RND90
Das wird eine sehr große Maschine. Ich bin beeindruckt von Ihrer Arbeit und Vorgehensweise.
Ich warte wie viele andere hier auf Ihr neues Video jeden Samstag. Ihre Videos helfen mir auch bei meinem Bau von Dampfmaschinenmodelle. So kann ich noch viel von Ihnen lernen.
Danke dafür. Bleiben Sie gesund.
Liebe Grüße aus Hamburg / Deutschland
Noticed that some of your super glue at 14:11 was still wet. Next time you use super glue accelerator on one piece and glue on other, you will get complete bonding. Super glue is activated by moisture, no moisture no activation, also storing super glue in your refrigerator will extend its life tremendously
I'm really enjoying this build. And...........I too was using adult language when the glue failed, was a natural reaction for me even watching you. Thanks for sharing.
@Blondihacks I really do enjoy your videos and I’d even been motivated to start shopping for a lathe. As a woodworker, it’s not lost on me when you talk about machining being about precision then you eyeball stuff. Lol. Keep up the great work.
Quinn, I am so addicted to your videos! Your knowledge, workmanship and delivery of information it top notch! You blew my mind with the blind hole alignment pins! And then offsetting them so the parts will only go back together one way! I love the way you put together and execute your order of operation. Great work!
It is always useful to follow your channel and see some interesting details and methods. Thanks!
At 11:10, toget an idea of contact before using superglue, try pre-pressing with silly putty first to determine contact points, where the silly putty is thin would indicate closest contact. Removing the silly putty from the casting surface completely before superglue might be tricky.
Considering the silicone oil in silly putty wouldn't be conducive to glue adhesion, something like modeling clay would probably be better.
I can't read that fast, but Thank You Patreons! Loving this series.
The fit did seem particularly satisfying.
Well done, as you do WAY more than 70% of the time.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
I cannot stress enough about how much I love your videos and your humor. Thank you for making this a wonderful Father’s Day!
Gorgeous work! Thanks for sharing it, most especially since you are having to deal with the stress of moving.
And thank you, Marielle, for being a patron! (I took 26:21 to heart, and found one. :) )
Hi Quinn,
Your patience, coupled with your drive for perfection, really is a salutary lesson for all budding machinists.
Your fixturing ideas are great too.
Thank you for doing all this.
Regards
Robert
(Sydney, Australia)
Nice work Quinn, I love the size of this baby. The spot face makes the cast surface pop, for me anyway. Enjoyed, cheers!
I genuinely love this channel so much. I'm not even a hobby machinist, because I already have too many hobbies, and as much as it appealed to me in college, I didn't change my major to do more of it, because aviation was my dream. I still catch as many of your videos as I can because of your humor, and the sheer relaxation that comes from watching you do these machining projects! Thanks for making these!
I hope you're really enjoying building this, I built one of similar size, an "ajax" by "tiny power" about twenty years ago, and enjoyed it thoroughly, it's a real attention getter. I've enjoyed watching you so far. That's a real nice job, establishing the alignment pins, a very good plan. I gotta say, I love the sheen of cast iron, fresh machined. That is going to be one fine looking vertical steam engine. Thanks for sharing!
Quinn, thanks for another great video. I think this episode epitomises why all us 'backyard engineers' do what we do; it is the problem solving and having to think on our feet to complete the job as efficiently (not always) as possible that gives us the enjoyment factor even though there is an occasional curve ball thrown.
I watched all of your previous Model Steam Engine videos and am now enjoying this series. You might be interested in a recent CrusingTheCut video: A steam-driven narrowboat on the British canals. All the best.
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!! (I love alignment pins... it almost feels like they make everything work.)
Steam engine is coming along a treat thanks for sharing.
Thanks for doing this, and how humorously you do these vids. It's appreciated!
thoughts on straight pins vs taper pins for alignment? I guess having the tool steel and having to turn them yourself lends to using straight pins. Looks so good! If anyone sees a partially blended face, no you didn't. 😁
Most of the equipment that I work on with alignment pins are taper pins And drilled in at an angle too not straight down.
Thank you Quinn, I am still learning. This is a wonderful build.
One bit of constructive criticism: when dealing with dowel pins, when possible make the press/loctite side a through hole. That way if you ever break a pin, it's easy to hammer it out without having to drill/EDM/etc. to get the pressed in half out.
More progress! Loving every episode. Makes my day.
Thank you patrons!
10:02 trepanning practice? Is Quinn practicing surgery in her garage? Is she relieving intracranial pressure or allowing evil demons to escape? so many questions ...
Probably vivisection on Sprocket
Brian Smith is a Legend!
Getting the bottom end aligned must be really important. You see men doing it all the time >_^
Lovely clear simple explanation of how to undertake complex machiningalways a pleasure to watch your videos Quinn
You deserve a lot more subscribers! Keep going Quinn!
Great description nailed it again !!
When you use the tailstock like that, it helps to either super glue or use double stick tape to put a piece of emery cloth on the drive part. The emery cloth id slightly soft and makes up for uneven surfaces. use automotive wet-dry paper for plastic parts or precision parts. good video, as usual. Oh, ya, use the thin 3m tape for smoother parts and more precision. I've been doing it with tape and super glue for a looong time. thanks for your videos.
Really great job, enjoying this series a lot.
👍👍😎👍👍 - thank you Paterons
Too many bosses leads to micromanagement 🤣
The super super glue would totally happen to me. Oh that and absolutely nailing a non critical measurement.
Very nice. I'm looking forward to seeing this engine run.
The things one has to do to "fixture" a part in one's home shop. It is rather quiet interesting.
I like slotted screws. Anything rather than obnoxious cross-heads. :D
Coming together nicely.
Super glue, 4 out of 5 times it works every time :)
Awesome work as always.
So many great tips, love your chanel. You, Tot and Gtwr are the best. Thanks from Sweden.
Looks great!
Happy as always to see a video from you, Q.
Thanks for sharing your work and perspectives on working through these puzzles. 😊
70% of the time, it works 100% of the time.
I do like your pins
It's hard to believe that an actual tapping operation doesn't elicit a "tappy tap tap", just for fun! Well, I said it in my head and it was fun for me. 🙂
Very cool techniques Quinn. Thanks for the video and greetings from Trinidad in the Caribbean!
Thanks Quinn
Beautiful job Quinn.
I learned so much today. Thank you!