Let's Build A Model Steam Engine - Making a Crankshaft!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2020
- This episode on Blondihacks, I'm machining a crankshaft for my steam engine! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
Buy Blondihacks stuff in my store! www.blondihacks.com/store
Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:
(I earn small commissions on these links)
• Mill clamping set : amzn.to/2xc9vqr
• Thread checker : amzn.to/2xgO2gc
• Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/2IJsAUs
• Zero Flute Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/3bmPLPe
• NOGA Deburring set : amzn.to/2Jv3RlW
• NOGA Reversible Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
• Knurling Tool : amzn.to/2FblXb1
• Tapered Reamer : amzn.to/2Gn0b3G
• Nicholson files : amzn.to/2VcHkls
• Nicholson needle files : amzn.to/2BDt7ph
• 1-2-3 Blocks : amzn.to/2EvAsGq
• Dormer center drills : amzn.to/2X7U6ij
• 6” Divider : amzn.to/2GTncM3
• NOGA arm with magnetic base : amzn.to/2U2bGTI
• NOGA arm Big Boy : amzn.to/381acji
• Collet Block set : amzn.to/2UkF1vZ
• DeWalt drill and driver kit : amzn.to/2Gp6IeJ
• DeWalt portable band saw : amzn.to/2U4Mhsw
• DeWalt band saw blades : amzn.to/2H2J4X0
• High Speed Steel parting blade : amzn.to/2YcdYBv
• High Speed Steel blade holder : amzn.to/2JgO0IK
• High Speed Steel tool blanks : amzn.to/2H1qoqr
• Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : amzn.to/2H4yr5z
• AXA tool holders : amzn.to/2V1gOHl
• Quick Change Toolpost : amzn.to/310mshq
• Norton oil stone kit : amzn.to/2EbLEH3
• Norton small sharpening stone: amzn.to/2PQwex9
• End mills : amzn.to/2U76Vsf
• Milling machine starter pack : amzn.to/2tA2M4e
• Forceps : amzn.to/2Ww5dFT
• Mill Parallels : amzn.to/2lfW82i
• GearWrench ratcheting tap & die set : amzn.to/2lMwZfV
• Step bits : amzn.to/2q54yfJ
• Starrett automatic center punch : amzn.to/2DCI7C9
• Budget transfer punch set : amzn.to/2yfDgHi
• Precision shim stock : amzn.to/34lJlME
• Jet 2-ton press : amzn.to/2SLas1s
• Gear Wrench locking puller : amzn.to/2ubBV1W
• Starrett tap wrenches : amzn.to/35jxM9e
• Goldenrod oiler : amzn.to/2TTS0En
• Acid brushes : amzn.to/36qWCo5
• Cratex (Bright Boy) block : amzn.to/38fNm72
• Scotchbrite deburring wheel : amzn.to/3ks0P2V
• Fein Turbo I shop vac : amzn.to/2vXpech
• Loc-Line (1/2”) : amzn.to/2U7JznB
• Loc-Line Pliers : amzn.to/2vWlXKf
• Machinist’s scale : amzn.to/2Zk6oVj
• Mixed metric/imperial dial caliper : amzn.to/2KKARYY
• Mitutoyo dial caliper : amzn.to/2IMIxJE
• Mitutoyo micrometer set : amzn.to/2GtICPx
• Mitutoyo depth micrometer : amzn.to/33M8aSH
• Mitutoyo edge finder : amzn.to/2G36omq
• Mitutoyo dial indicator : amzn.to/2H09gBr
• Mitutoyo dial test indicator : amzn.to/2E5lRQw
• Coaxial indicator : amzn.to/3bbBEwE
• Mitutoyo telescoping gauge set : amzn.to/2Z6houn
• Fowler dial bore gauge : amzn.to/2KQJNf2
• Fowler inside micrometer : amzn.to/2TVm7Jo
• Starrett 98-6 Level : amzn.to/38K7lMD
• Grizzly Height Gage : amzn.to/2PDTr7i
• Thread Checker : amzn.to/2CpvAUU
• The Amateur’s Lathe book : amzn.to/3jIYlwe
• Anchor Lube : amzn.to/2H9X6oQ
• Boeshield T-9 : amzn.to/2TCE0wB
• Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : amzn.to/2YhZTmR
• JAX Metal Blackener : amzn.to/2MVe8wj
• Dykem layout fluid : amzn.to/2U7KQts
• Dykem dauber : amzn.to/2uoXtbm
• Tap Magic cutting oil : amzn.to/37uYzRS
• WD-40 : amzn.to/2GYV8rY
• Super 77 Spray Glue : amzn.to/2YScxZl
• Loctite 603 : amzn.to/2EYsPbi
• Loctite 242 : amzn.to/2RIt3sQ
• Way oil : amzn.to/38Gl9qW
• High pressure grease : amzn.to/2GloHTd
• CMD Extreme Pressure lube : amzn.to/36JPNy9
• Dry graphite lube : amzn.to/2U0YEZH
• 3-in-1 oil : amzn.to/36in43e
• Kroil : amzn.to/2uCf1RL
• Evaporust : amzn.to/36NSkII
• Brasso : amzn.to/3buE6yL
Commenting policy : blondihacks.com/commenting-po...
Want more content like this? Try these places:
Blondihacks on Instagram : / blondihacks
Blondihacks on Twitter : / quinndunki
Blondihacks on Patreon : / quinndunki
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. 
Наука
Hey everyone! This week’s Thing The Internet Desperately Wants Me To Know is that the British term “slot drill” apparently refers specifically to two-flute center cutting endmills (which is what I was using anyway). If I just call them two flute endmills, then everyone jumps in to tell me they are called slot drills. This is what I get for trying to bridge two countries divided by a common language. At least we can all agree that Coke is better than Pepsi, right?
Coke or Pepsi? I definitely have to go with RC Cola.
@@Teklectic, RC Cola is only perfect ice cold along with a pack of those little gem chocolate donuts. Otherwise, coke all the way;)
I'm a brit living in ga usa, if I don't call it a 2 flute I get a confused look and come away with nothing 😜 where did you get the kit from? That would be a nice little project for my manual harrison lathe, I shipped over when I moved here.
@@Ddabig40mac Mmmmmm. Cofffeeeeee!
Oh, yes, @Blondihacks; Coke™ is the real thing. If you can get it in a small glass bottle (sometimes around the holidays) try putting a small handful of salted peanuts into the bottle after having a few sips. It's a Southern US trick that is surprisingly good. I don't know whether it's the small amount of salt or the irregular inclusion of a peanut with a mouthful of Coke. It doesn't work with cans, plastic bottles, or Coke in a glass; it has to be those small, 6.5 ounce (190 ml) glass bottles.
To make a crankshaft gag like that you have to be a little bit... eccentric. 😂
*rimshot*
Blondihacks precision rimshot
@@charmedparticle precision *hose clamp* rimshot! 😁
Imperial Rimshot!
This thread makes me almost as happy as the bird pun thread from a while back.
About hacksawing by hand:
* Listen to yourself talking about cheap _vs_ good endmills.
• Remember that hacksaw blades are consumables.
• Buy at least one good, high-tension hacksaw frame (I like to have several with different blades to avoid using whatever blade happens to be installed).
• Buy high quality hacksaw blades; select the teeth-per-inch to keep at least three teeth in the work at all times.
• Throw away dull blades (they are consumables!).
• Secure your workpiece *rigidly* preferably in a vise mounted on a *rigid* bench (workpiece motion is deadly to good hacksawing).
• A healthy adult, with a fresh, high-quality blade, can easily cut one square inch (25 mm square) of mild steel in 60 seconds. (I was able to do this until I was nearly 70 {but not twice in a row}.)
A last note: a hacksaw blade (or file) that has ever been used on steel will never cut brass well again. If your means (pocketbook and tool storage room) will stand it, keep a set of hacksaw blades (and files) reserved for brass only.
@@markfergerson2145 - My understanding is that use in steel rounds the teeth on a microscopic scale, just enough that the natural lubricating properties of brass will then let the file or hacksaw blade skate over the surface unless extra pressure is used. (Steel-"dulled" blades and files _will_ cut brass; you just have to press harder, which may make precision filing or cutting more difficult.)
Take this with a grain of salt; this explanation is just what _I've_ heard, on one or more of the times I've heard about the steel/brass thing.)
And do try the square-inch in sixty seconds thing. It's a real confidence builder (never mind character-building, Quinn). It's also a great "party trick". Bet someone that you can cut a square inch of steel with a hand hacksaw faster than they can with a Portaband™ or reciprocating saw. When you have the bet, make sure they understand that their time includes finding the tool, getting it out, an extension cord if needed, rigging it, doing the cut, and putting everything away again. I've taken a buck or two one more than one occasion from people who don't think any metalworking can be done by hand. (You might have to cheat a little by knowing that there is a fresh 14-TPI blade in your hacksaw frame, which is hanging next to your vise. And watch your knuckles; cutting in a hurry can really leave you bloody if you're not careful.) Take long, level strokes (if there's more than 3/4" of paint left at the ends of your blade, you're wasting energy - and blade). You want as many teeth cutting as possible; if you rock the blade to make the push easier and make it _look_ like your cut is going faster, then you are actually removing less metal per second.
Thank you, these are some very good tips
Agreed. A proper hacksaw is a pleasure to work with. It should feel like eating metal like it's almost nothing. If it's not doing that, something is wrong/suboptimal.
Save dulled hacksaw blades. They are flexible so wrap some emery cloth/paper around them to use when extra fine surface finishing workpiece in lathe or vise (as Blondihacks did with just a piece of emery cloth). The backing provided by the blade allows for more pressure, control and precision of finished surface.
@@lfljvenaura - I thought about that advice to toss dull blades, but decided not to confuse the issue. Dull blades are useful sources of shims, high-carbon steel (at least some blades), thin strips of metal for linkages, etc. Just be sure they don't get mixed back in with blades with a decent edge on them.
"There's nothing dull when turning a crankshaft!" Except for the tool that's knocked off all that scale. :)
Hah!! I see what you did there. 🤣
"Precision hose clamp" 😂😂😂😂 seriously loving this project
"Precision Hose Clamp" from Starrett. Comes in a red box.
I was impressed that she ended up going with the first idea that popped into my non-machinist head 😁
I came here to leave the same comment; was not disappointed. Blondihacks jokes are the best. :)
It's funny but as soon as she mounted that in the truck I thought I would throw a hose clamp on there too. And then later she ends up doing it.
They have got me out of a bind ore than once...the good stainless steel ones really grab on to stuff... :-)
I really like the bling spacers. They probably work better than just leaving a shoulder on the shaft too.
I love it when Sprocket chimes in, Such a pretty cat! I'm really enjoying this series of videos, I love the way you show your - erm- - unintended design upgrades - warts & all!
Nearly 50 years ago my uncle turned a steam engine on a small Unimat Lathe. It was a work of art, but I never got to watch him doing the machining. This video fills in a lot of what I was wondering. Thanks for sharing!!
The crankshaft was the first part that I machined for my steam engine kit. It was one piece steel and I did it all the machining in the 4 jaw chuck. It was so long ago that I don't remember the details. I am enjoying this build, keep up the good work.
Hey Blondie, I have been doing this sort of thing professionally for 40 years plus. Of all your vids I have watched, I was extremely impressed with your performance this time. Thanks so much for a great watch, and please keep them coming. Cliff
I am impressed with your ability to work around your errors. The crankshaft is beautiful and you are rightfully proud of the finished product.
I know lots of folks say nice things about your videos. Rather than adding to the list, rather I think I’d like to just say thank you. My machining is getting better in large part because of things I am learning from you. By “trade” I fly planes, so my learning cure is both steep, and unfortunately quite “jagged”. Please keep doing what you are doing with my sincere thanks. Regards from a fellow Canadian, Ancaster, Ontario. Cheers.
Beautiful! I have owned a hobby size engine lathe for about 5 years now and I had no idea you could make parts like this with it. Thanks for releasing my imagination. Also - I loved thed opening joke! 😄
Hi Quinn,
I just wanted to thank you for all of the time and effort you put into making these videos. They are funny, informative, and inspiring!
Thanks (mainly) to you, I will soon be purchasing my very first metal lathe! It will be my first machining type tool, and until I watched your playlist on lathe basics, I was totally overwhelmed. Now I'm more excited than overwhelmed. Of course once I uncrate the thing I expect that to change back to being overwhelmed. But I'll just crank up the old RUclips box and rewatch your videos, while keeping my fingers out of the meat grinders. 😧So many potential meat grinders.😧
Thanks again.
What lathe are you looking at? Many many choices out there!
@@tomt9543 I'm looking at the G0768 by grizzly. But I'm willing to listen to suggestions. I started my research with the PM-1022v that Quinn uses but it's just a little too big for my space.
That's Not A Bad Idea The 7 X 12 lathe that Harbor Freight sells (online only-not in stores) is a decent machine and about 4” longer than their 7 X 10 (actually 7 X 8!) lathe. Through a strange set of circumstances I wound up with that 7 X 12 AND a Grizzly G0765. I really like them both, and Little Machine Shop has everything to take these machines to the next level. Most of the 7 X 10, 12, 14” lathes are made by Sieg in China, but the Grizzly G0765 supposedly isn’t. I was also given a 20 year old Harbor Freight 9 X 20 lathe that is the same machine as the current Grizzly G4000 9 X 19 (?) lathe. A slightly larger unit, but a real workhorse!
I suspect that bronze spacers are actually better friction-vise, so that error turned up to better.
Agreed
That's it, that's the story....
What if the base's bore was increased in to 0.500" diameter so the bronze washer had a half sleeve bushing shell added? The crank would be rotating fully in bronze, not half on cast iron.
😂😂 the blair witch cam! That killed me. Great work!
I learned a ton from the Sparey book.
Your use of a machinist jack to equalize pressure between the two halves of the vise when the work's offset, has convinced me to go ahead and make a set. That's a great idea.
I just found this channel today and one thing I see is, alot of machinist just show a lot of fancy lathe work and wham bam, the piece is done. You show the good bad and the ugly about machining. Like when you messed up and over cut, I like to see that, because thats what WE need to know how to do, recover.
Good job!
Nice work there! Please add me to the list of people that are REALLY enjoying this build series. Looking forward to the next episode. Stay Well & Happy.
The spinning crankshaft is amazing to see. A major milestone!
Everytime a new video comes out i get the same feeling i did when my favorite TV show came out with a new episode. Keep up the amazing work
Your intelligence is astonishing: you always emphasize important aspects of the trade. There are many excellent YT machinists who keep silent while they carry out most theoretically demanding operations.
You have an absolutely perfect fit for your crank shaft, even if it doesn't spin the way you hoped it would, because remember, the engine has to be run in! And then it will be as smooth as glass.
Fully agree about hacksaws and character building-I usually have far too much to take the time to use one!
First project in machining school was to hacksaw a piece off a 1" x 2" piece of aluminum bar, then file the ends perfectly square. LOADS of character built there.
@@ADBBuild - I got my start in metalworking from my grandfather. He set me to work making one inch cubes after I had used his micrometer as a C-clamp (I was about 10 years old). He provided me with good files, an accurate square, a micrometer (a different one, still accurate), and a supply of rough-cut mild steel cubes, slightly oversize.
I was expected to return a one inch cube that was square everywhere (no visible light between cube and square at any location), and exactly one inch everywhere (closer to 1.000” than to either 0.999” or 1.001”; in modern specifications 1.000” ± 0.0005” or a bit easier than 25.00 mm ±0.01). This was a combination of punishment, character-building, and plain, good training in several essential skills.
I learned accountability; actions have consequences. (Don’t abuse someone else’s tools; if you don’t know the proper use, ASK.) I learned patience: if I filed too aggressively and took too much metal off, I had to start over with a new rough-cut cube. I learned to move my hands in a straight line; if you rock your hands as you file, you will leave a curved surface (not square; start over). This motor skill turned out to be useful in unexpected places (I can make a pool cue move in a straight line). I learned how to use a micrometer and square.
My first five or six tries were spoiled; before I got them square all over, they were undersized in at least one location. It took me about a week to get my first one right. I made my second in a day, and eventually got so I could do it in a couple of hours. I could only see the punishment at the time, but I had no regrets by the time I began metalworking seriously, and still don’t 67 years later.
Thanks Ms Blondihacks for the video. I learned a lot from watching and I avoided some mistakes. For example, you and I both know that I would have forgotten about the sholders on the mainshaft as you did, but since I watched your video my shaft fits perfect between in my base between the bearings. :-)
Hi, I'm slowly building the same engine. Watching you machine yours is both enjoyable and inspiring. Thank you.
You never cease to amaze me with your think ahead and problem solving. The professional gear clamp and brass was great. Please keep impressing me. The bronze stand offs were the obvious answer and like you say look great, better with than without.
Yay crankshaft!! I mean... Blondihacks time!! [A day late... was working on, and then giving up on a water heater... will be replacing it today with a fancy new model]
Excellent bronze thrust bearing upgrade! On the hacksawing, key thing is pulling chips on every forward stroke. That means using plenty of downward pressure, enough for the teeth to penetrate the surface. Fewer teeth per inch penetrate easier than many, so a coarser blade generally works better as long as there are three or four engaged at all times. Also, rocking the blade (rather than straight through every time) helps keep the teeth penetrating because then they are touching on some sort of tangent of a radius. When you can't get the teeth to penetrate readily any more even with firm downward pressure it's time to check whether the edges on the teeth are rounded and time for a new blade. A beginner mistake is thinking that running the saw back and forth faster will make it cut faster, but if the teeth aren't penetrating the surface well (which would be evident by shooting chips out of the cut) then that just dulls the teeth like taking too fine of a cut with an endmill. When you've got the pressure and teeth-per-inch right, a moderately sharp blade will cut cast iron pleasingly quickly (and blades will last and last). If you practice single strokes like this and check the cut after each one I think you'll see what I mean. Great channel! I enjoy watching you work :) Oh, and by the way, cast iron files really nicely, so you could round some of the rough edges on the crank arms if you were inclined very readily. Hold the work in a vice. You may see why Tom Lipton likes it so much (as do I) :)
Bravo, that was some impressive work! I can see this engine chugging along soon.
Hi Quinn I like the way you work the problems as they come along . You have every right to be pleased with what you have produced well done.
THANK YOU...for sharing. That crankshaft looks amazing. Really enjoying this series on the steam-engine.
Would have never expected that A-Team reference. Nuclear kudos!
Blonde got dad jokes-TOT would be so proud of you. 😉
Made me so happy when I was thinking hose clamp and then you actually did it:)
Love your channel! Found the milling tutorials really useful as I’ve just bought the same model. Fifty-two years ago as a young apprentice (automation engineer) I completed 6 months ‘filing fitting and fabricating’ as part of my basic training. My apprentice instructor who’s favourite saying was ‘Manual dexterity and muscular co-ordination” taught me to file curves by filing at the opposite angle to the curve I was trying to create. It’s always worked for me and I see you are one of very few people on RUclips to use the same method. Good luck and thanks for your informative and entertaining channel.
You just keep on nailing each step. This project was a little beyond cat toothbrushes, precision wise speaking. When you needed to clamp the crankshaft to the fixture, I thought my solution would be a hose clamp or a wrap of wire but she’ll have a really sophisticated answer. Oops. Keep on keeping on. Love your stuff! 😎👍👏
I like the way you face a problem and solve it...and the result is a beautifully machined part like this crankshaft!
Just subscribed, your work is great, however hearing the machine work ,hearing your voice without music so I can understand what your are saying and no commercial interruptions is priceless.I let them run and the beginning and end so you will get paid. Cheers
Although I will probably never do anything like any of what you make, Quinn, I watch your videos and study every little thing you do because learning things like order of operations and learning the ways you are both successful and NOT successful in clamping things will hopefully become useful in the wood working and wood turning projects that are all rattling around in my head. Thank you for sharing your talents with the rest of us! Also say hi to Sprocket for me!
Sprocket says hi! 🐈
You’re amazing, very talented work and very inspiring. You go girl!
There is nothing more beautiful than a machine that "wears in" and doesn't "wear out".
I know next to nothing about this particular trade, having watched two vids in a row, I now know a damn sight more than when I got here. Excellent presentation of complex subject. I have subscribed. Bye the bye, Neil from Pask Makes sent me here.
You know, after you get this done this steam engine needs to run something, not just sit there and run. Might I suggest whipping up a small flat belt driven pencil sharpener?? Or better yet, a little steam powered band saw to cut brass stock!
Coffee grinder perhaps? Use the steam from out of the engine to make espresso?
Extremely tiny lathe!
When I was a kid my Dad bought me a Mammod stationary engine. With the aid of some Meccano and a small electric motor being used as a generator, I could have a steam powered night light!
Since Quinn is a computer person by (work)day, I suggest something suitably steampunk and a steam powered water cooling loop for her editing PC. After all water pumps were the literally the first uses for steam engines.
@@CTXSLPR I like that idea. I wonder how much power she could get from it? A steam powered PC?
I'm not familiar with engines or any of this stuff, but I feel like the brass spacers are a better solution than having just left shoulders. The spacers can be replaced if the wear.
Clearly the bronze bushings were intended for use as a thrust wear surface. Of course.
its not a bug, its a feature.
Thanks for another video. I wanted this to be another steam engine video, though I expected something else, and was quite pleased when it actually went right into that familiar part.
You make this look easy but that's because you are a master at this
Final words, ''Well it's far from perfect''.... Well, not that far!!
That was lovely to watch.
I really like cast iron too. It is a wonderful material (with built in superglide carbon). The look and feel of it is something special however it is made and used. From fine polished parts like this to the iron gate at the end of the garden it is a wonderful tactile and visual material.
Beautiful work on a tough job. I'm sure your video makes it look easier then it really was.
This was a lot of fun to watch!! I had absolutely no idea that one could build a crankshaft from a cast using a lathe! Thanks for sharing. Best regards from Brasilia, Brazil.
Excellent machining and results.
Thanks for sharing.
Never underestimate the mighty hose clamp.
Never OVER estimate the hose clamp, either. :P
I fully expected her to say "ITS MORPHING TIME! POWER OF CONCENTRICITY!!!"
looking good Quinn, great fixture setup and resultant trouble shooting solution. I tried the same thing from scratch without the fixture and it only ended in tears and sitting on the shelf waiting for a solution. Thanks for the vid, cheers!
"...security theater strap..." Ha! Tell it like it is.
The Brass bearings really added a Nice touch, It is always nice when a minor mistake can allow for a improvement of the final product...Nicely done and thanks for sharing. Vic
Hi. You explain each and everything in so simple way. Great and keep on posting stuff like this.
I actually had the thought "hose clamp" before you introduced it. And then I couldn't believe that was the solution.
This was a treat to watch. Thanks for sharing it!
I had an evening engagement so I saved this for just before bedtime. Very soothing. So glad I waited. Thanks!
Lookin good gal. The cranks are the hardest part on those kits ... the fixture is a life saver when you machine the crankshaft.
Enjoy the videos, you do a really good job.
“Precision hose clamps” !!!!! Love it. Nice job.
Turning the journal with that flat ended tool, so satisfying
I am really enjoying this series. Thank you!
Nice. thanks for this video. As an old live steamer (1 1/2 inch scale) I sure can appreciate your work.
I could listen to you all day, thank you x
I really appreciate your detailed commentary as you work, there are many little gems of knowledge mentioned. As a relative newcomer to home machining I always learn some new stuff from your videos, plus they reinforce things that I have already learnt.
Nice timing with this video - I've just started machining the castings of my first Stuart 10V steam engine.
I wonder how often, after cutting out the stiffening web, that some machinists have that awful realisation that they have cut out the wrong web - stuff of nightmares!!
Cheers Paul
Another awesome episode!! You make it look so easy!! Moving right along. Take care!!!
If you want to clamp on rough castings like in you Machine vice use some rough sandpaper rough side towards the cast surface
Love this vlog. love the ways you cut out the crankshaft. And the bling.
Awesome video! Especially the fixture for turning the journal!
The simplest solutions are the best solutions. Nice job.
I agree that you make my fingers itch to do such work. But I went the other way years ago and now wrangle electrons and build computers. But we both have fun in our own ways during the pandemic, which counts just as much as a really good junk pile. Keep smiling!
"Give it a whirl"! x.x I have to use that, now. I have heard such great things about machining cast iron, but this is better than I'd imagined!
Excellent work. I really like the hose clamp fix - very elegant.
Love the way you solve problems with simple things like that jubilee clamp I also like the contrast between bronze and the casting it's probably better to have bushing rather than one solid shaft keep up the great work look forward to the next part
Excellent Quinn,liked your idea to put bronze spacers to cure your problem.👍👍👍
The bronze seems like a better choice anyway for that kind of alignment feature. Certainly looks better!
Nice work Quinn... Your ingenuity always brings a smile to my face.. Precisions clamps are a must have.. Rock On..
Well done! And the bling is King!
Love it!!!! Great job. I’m always waiting for your next video
Fantastic idea with the indicator for depth, thanks Quinn
I always upvote in the first 30s of a Blondihacks video and have never had cause to regret it. (I just miss Veronica.)
This isn't my thing but, I couldn't help but watch the whole video. I really enjoyed your presentation and actually learned a thing or two concerning both crank shafts and how offset milling is accomplished. Thank you; I always appreciate learning.
I'm more mechanic than machinist. But when I saw the issue with the fixture not clamping the shaft properly, I thought 'That's a job for a hose clamp!' Perfect solution.
Very nicely done, the fixture was just the thing.
Slot drills differ from end mills in that they can plunge cut (drill) as well as cut slots or mill surfaces. End mills can't drill holes, they don't have cutting edges that go all the way to the center .
Great work. Love the hose clamp. :)
The more of these I watch the more interested I get to see the next one :D
Quinn, I'm thinking that this is not your last steam engine build, so I hope you don't mind a suggestion if things go wrong during the crankshaft boring operation in the future. You can always overbore, set the crankshaft in place at the correct height and fill in around the crankshaft with poured babbitt material made for bearings in machinery prior to the ball bearing bearings. Babbitt bearings are the smoothest and quietest that I know of.
Watching you machine that crank had me on the edge of my seat! I'd be absolutely terrified of the swing of it hitting something.. Beautifully done.
Well done.
I’m building a model steam engine and this is perfect.
Thanks
Really enjoyed watching this video. Thank you for posting.
Whenever I finally get around to machining my steam engine ,I plan to do the same with the bronze spacers. That looks great !
another Great video Quinn ! As I am just about to drill & ream the crankshaft bore, this video really helps me to center the bore from the caps to the main casting. I don’t have a 4 jaw chuck, ????? This will really get the Old Wife going on spending more money.for more tooling.. but she will not know till the charges come in. This project is fun doing it with a talented machinist like You. Thank You BB
Nice work, I could not stop watching, very nice. Hope to see the engine soon.
I'm impressed that you were able to make a crankshaft in one try, most of us would have had a small pile of scrap .
My fav project of yours so far. I need on of those liquid insulators for my imperial beverage.
Nice project. I like this steam engine project and am watching all. Thumbs Up!
Love the precision hoseclamp , keep it up, gonna be a nice engine