Just FYI. When iron cools in the mold, it can cool fast or slow. If it hits the sand, two three things happen. 1). Any moisture in the sand turns to steam. 2). The iron contours itself to the dry sand walls. 3). A thin skin of iron cools rapidly in contact with the sand. Firstly, if iron cools fast, the graphite soldifies as interstacial carbide. Old timers would dust the molds with a coal dust that reduces the surface effects of the sand. This skin of carbide iron is called white iron. If the graphite cools slowly is produced a laminar layout of strands like worms. If I add manganese and extra fero-silicone JUST before I pour, the graphite solidifies as balls or nodules. This is ductile iron. Using only ferro-silicone yields the wormy pattern which is grey iron. When you machine grey iron, try to climb cut into the edge to prevent edge chip out. Heat treatment of castings reduces internal stress and aneals the white iron up to a point. When I melt down brake rotors which are often a meehanite nodular iron, everything goes back into solution. Like adding surgar to water. Then many or most of the original innoculents will out gad, burn off or float to the top ad dross. So adding a tad of ferro silicone now will allow the iron to solidly as grey iron as opposed to the ductile it once was. The white iron caused by rapid cooling can be useful. A steel ring was added to the mold in train wheels to force white iron to form on the rim. A real pain to machine but improves the life span of a train wheel. When cutting this skin, you need a full carbide tool. Carbide tooling, unlike HSS tooling, does not do well with light cuts or spring cuts. It wants to take a heavier cut. So a finish cut in HSS may require 1 or 3 tho but the same cut in carbide is done at 10 to 15 tho. So adjust your hog accordingly. Really enjoying the build of this motor. I think this engine may have been used by DuPont to make black powder. But don’t quote me.
Worth noting that it is magnesium that acts as a nodulizer for DI and not manganese. Also FeSi itself is not an adequate inoculant for cast iron, it usually includes a rare earth like cerium to act as a heterogeneous nucleation point. Also gray iron flakes are not “laminar/lamellar” it’s more of a randomly oriented sponge structure with interstitial aus/ferrite/pearlite
@@fowler123454321 You are correct. Laminar is not the correct technical term. Spaghettini like is more correct. For DI I use an innoculent made for meehanite style iron. Had to buy a drum the size of 55 gallon drum. Not cheap and will last me more years than I have. As I recall, it has magnesium, some manganese, some calcium and a bunch of ferro silicone and some other stuff. About 20 ingredients. I haven’t read the paperwork on it in a while as I am currently redoing my shop including a new furnace and muller among other things. I have the recipe for Oliver’s “semi-steel” and will experiment when I get back into it. Thanks for clarifying my incorrect use of the word laminar. I can tell you that the metalurgy of DI is not simple but it’s worth while being able to do it.
@@devemch7851 ah I see. Yeah in that inoculant the calcium will act as your nucleation point while the magnesium acts as your nodulizer. Manganese and other stuff is usually to promote pearlite or whatever while the silicon is of course to encourage graphite development (change temperature of graphite eutectic reaction). All of this to say yea DI metallurgy is no joke! I’m currently writing my masters thesis on it!
@@Blondihacks No problems making a crank that way I have seen others here on various YT channels do similar. It comes back to that simple thing: You can only do the things the tools in your shop allow you to do. Its what I like about your channel (and a few others) you find ways to do things with what you have.
Very nice. Your intro had me looking at every detail, trying to find the mistake. Mostly I was just thinking about all the ways I would have screwed it up. :)
The best thing on this channel ist the approach from the standpoint of an average home shop machinist with limited machine capacity and space. Classic model engineering at its best !
@Blondie I can't watch any of my other machining channels without hearing your quote during every facing cut , "take a facing cut, as is tradition" Abom79, Cutting Edge Engineering, This old Tony, AvE, and others all get the mental treatment... When it happens I do the Imperial Fist shake.. wait that is YOU too!?!?!? Gaaaaaa
I may never even get near a lathe, but boy oh boy, it sure feels good watch you making your art while I sip a little coffee in a Saturday afternoon! Awesome work Quinn! For me, it turned out perfectly!
What using dividers to mark shoulders? You'll ruin them! Just use your calipers! "Everyone and their dog does it, and frankly I'm just surprised my dog can use machine tools"! 😂😂😂 Awesome work as always Quinn looking forward to seeing the rest of the build!
I used to make a little steam engines. I had a 9 x 36 Southbend lathe, BenchMaster knee mill, and all the cutters, gages, and assorted tools one collects after 40 years. Then in 2013 the Black Forest wild fire destroyed it all. I didn’t have the heart to build another shop but I enjoyed watching you work
I have a factory made steam engine with a 5" bore and was built before 1905 and the crank is built up this way ,you will be fine .Nice job I'll be following along .Jeff
Your in my head when I'm down in the shed machining and have me openly talking while I do each process. I do a chamfer and say to myself "as is tradition", when parting I call out in an above normal voice "Yahtzee". I think your being channeled through my subconscious.
Thanks, I enjoyed this video. Fun fact, Gravely walk behind tractors used a pressed together crank and it is actually adjusted after assembly by persuading the pieces to move.
When making the bearings here is a trick from full sized engines that should work on your one as it is large enough. First work out the direction of rotation, drill in the lubricating hole on the inside of the top bearing use a dremel to create a shallow groove that runs with the direction of rotation down to the bearing split point. This will draw oil down to the bearing split. Now in the inside edge of the bottom bearing file a minute chamfer on the inside that runs with the direction of rotation but does not extend to the ends of the bearing so that both ends of the lower bearing are not bevelled. The effect of this is that oil is run down to the small chamfer in the bottom bearing, it runs along to the edges of the chamfer. As the shaft rotates the oil is dragged into the chamfer whose wedge profile squeezes the oil into the bearing surface creating a thin high pressure film of oil between the surfaces. When running at speed this high pressure oil layer extends the full rotation of the shaft and the shaft instead of laying in the bottom bearing brass floats in the middle of the bearings totally supported by oil. This is why the only wear a steam engine shaft bearing gets is during those times running up to and down from working speed. Steve If you want more details I will pop a drawing on my website.
I recall a colleague spending a whole afternoon setting up a built up crankshaft for a JAP engined vintage Morgan, all he was doing was trueing the taper on a crank pin end to bring the journals into alignment. I think after several hours deliberating he took 1 ½ thou off and was pleased with the result.
You are a master of problem solving because you approach them as an opportunity. EXCELLENT work as usual. Many many people do not retire for the evening with the same sense of GREAT accomplishment as you do.
I was looking for a mistake all through the video, and then when the crank shaft was mounted between centers after the center shaft was cut a flickering and smoking candle lit up. The flexing from the axial pressure was suddenly obvious. Now I wonder how it will fare when the crankshaft gets put under stress. While there won't be axial pressure on the shaft there will be angular forces produced by the cylinder and radial from the load on the engine.
There’s no wrong way to do anything as long as you end up where you need to be at the end! 6 of one, half a dozen of another when it comes to ways of doing things. Well done lady!
That's exactly what I tell people when they ask, why are you doing it that way? Because this is the way that's easiest for me and this is the way I learn to do it, and as long as the end result is the same then how you get there shouldn't really matter.
I would machine this part out of the solid. I hate working scale also. One of these days you might want to think about a floor mill. I used to have a Lagun floor mill when I had a shop when I was a kid. It came with a slotting head which came in handy on alot of specialized parts.
I have just subscribed to your channel and I enjoy your videos very much. One of the most amazing things that I learnt from you is that a chamfer is all that separates us from the animals. Next time I see a crazy person I am going to check for a chamfer
If it turns out that you need to, you can still add taper pins. They can be sized so the small end is just bigger than the straight pins you now have. Don't forget that you can get taper pins with a bit of thread on the end to allow pulling them out. (Or you could cross drill the web for a taper pin under the functional pin to drive out the pin the same way a tapered wedge drives out a Morse taper from a drill press spindle.)
Pins and that loctite should be more than enough! It looks beautiful. Those castings really are good quality. We can't get anything close down here in Aus.
Shop manuals for some 2 stroke motorcycles had instructions for assembling and aligning crankshafts. It generally involved surface plates, vee blocks, indicators, and mallets.
One day I won’t carry the sense of impending dread that you create in the intro for the whole video. Today is not that day... very glad that it came good in the end! Looks perfect
My grandad said to always make mandrels with center points, lathe dogs and with multiple backstops/sleeves. He said it cuts down on how many mandrels you will ever need to make. Plus he was a metal miser. Anyone who went through the great depression tended to be that way.
Yep, I had the same issue when checking after setting the centre shaft out. I didn't have a collet then but .... I did mine a little differently to save on the cutting centre shaft. I only drilled and loctited the crank pin (with the centre shaft right through then withdrew the shaft, machined the two halves an loctited in place
I keep waiting for someone to pin something like this the same way they use pins on full size steam engines. In stead of the pin being positioned at 90degrees to the shaft axis they pinned parallel to the shafts. A hole for the pin is drilled with the centre at the junction between the shaft and the crank so that half the diameter of the hole is in each part and drilled to the length of the shaft/crank intersection. This way the full length of the pin prevents the crank rotating on the shaft. Rather than just the diameter. I have a similar sized Stuart turner No5 crankshaft to do at some stage and will probably give it a go. Nice job. Steve
Thank you for such interesting videos, I'm so please to see a lady doing such engineering work as my wife always tell me , of this male world been unjust to woman and she right but when i see such videos like your, I feel better , I myself try to rebuild and modify a motorcycle for long time I appreciate the knowledge of people in different application ,thank you very much Robert , in Australia
Very nice work with the built-up crankshaft. I've seen Keith Appleton use this method of building and pinning built-up crankshafts and when you stated early in the video you were going to pin it I knew your finished crankshaft would be straight and true in the end.
How exactly do you know you have a ball-nose viewer?? ...But seriously thank you for the continuing adventure and the miniature machinist's jack trick in particular.
Your skills continue to improve. You apply your intelligence, combine it with studying, and the results are ever improving skill sets. Well done, Quinn.
I ended up buying one of these engines having looked at them for a couple decade. I just received it yesterday, and am beginning the machine work today, I think I will start with these pieces, it's good to see someone like you choosing to do what you will. Thanks for a bit of inspiration.
Running the exhaust steam up the smokestack to increase the draw of air to the fire is very nearly a turbocharger. It uses residual exhaust energy to increase performance.
@@kensherwin4544 You make the key point that performance in steam generation is what matters. A Roots blower in the path to the cylinder(s) will do less than nothing. Super-critical steam turbine installations are HIGHLY efficient.
For forge scale like that I find using ceramic flap discs or something similar works best. They are similar to obsidian and have a higher melting point that steel usually so it can be a nightmare to remove.
Press fit crankshafts are suuuuper common on motorcycle engines, and apparently dialing in the concentricity with a dial indicator and a copper hammer is not a big deal. Looks like the pins worked out just fine though. :)
Hi Quinn, great video as usual. Went through this same process making a very small five piece crankshaft from a kit. Decided to build the same method as you show here and cut out the centre scrap piece right at the end (and file the faces flat) Threw all he original kit parts away after not getting it right (and beyond recovery) and made one from scratch. Your video brought back all the pain, but the end result is a nice one.
I always learn something watching these videos. Talking about large end mills, would love another mill series +1 episode on end mills specifically. When do you is a ball nose? What diameter end mill? 1/2 inch is more rigid, but does the extra tool pressure make DOC an issue with small mills? Does 1/2 have better life than say 1/4? Does 3/8 work well as roughing mill and 1/4 as finishing? Etc. Basically what works well with small mills from your experience?
That is just a work of art! I love watching you make the crankshaft because its the one thing im strugling with on my engine. I was just thinking today that a multi peice crank would solve a lot of problems with mine.
Excellent job. You have an innate ability to overcome one of the most frustrating challenges of machine work, the problem of setup. You always find a great solution. Wonderful thinking.
Love your explanations and the overall quality of the video’s. So nice that you also show some failures. Finding solutions is better learning material than expecting a perfect word. Thanks for all the fun hours.
Love the tutorial: Especially because I've been considering for some time to ditch the soft brass(?) crankshaft in my Markie for a more durable steel one!
Yes, you can press that assembly together. At that point, you have essentially created a mini-Harley Davidson crankshaft. It's worked for them for some time. You can then treat it like a very stiff ball joint, and true it with a deft touch with a hammer.
For me, the techniques and ideas that you apply to your builds are useful in so many areas of machine work - I may never build a steam engine, but the hints and tips you share are absolutely invaluable to the other projects I will one day get around to!!.
Hi Quinn, I used the same techinque on the crankshaft of my shay loco. Works well since 10 years. It also gave me the feature to use ball bearings on the enclosed shafts in my case, as I can take the crank shaft appart. Instead of loctite the pins in, I used clamping straps as on the real thing. Keep up your progress. I can still learn a lot of high grate machine work here, mostly better than mine ;-) Gerd
This is really challenging and a bit complicated as well. I think that the original press fit is better since it will bring a stronger connection between the parts. A pin and Loktite is not the same. This will be strength-tested when you build the final engine. Thanks for sharing.
@@ellieprice363 Yes they are easier to assemble, no question of that. However, engine industry does not use that method. The crankshaft pins are cooled down and the outer parts are heated and then they are pressed together with a very large force. The fittings are such that the metals are pressed together so that there is absolutely no play. Rather, the metals are like one. The stresses subjected to the crankshaft parts are very high. Any looseness would cause an immediate failure. I am excited to see how this Loctite solution will go through later on.
This argument could go on forever but both methods are well proven. A press fit tight enough to be good enough is not something that I would try when it’s that close to the edge of cast iron.
Your method of pinning the shafts was definitely better than a press fit. I work on old Gravely tractor engines with the twin disk cranks which are press fit. The problem with that is if there is any torque impact on the crank it can mis-align the disks which can cause pronounced engine vibration.
My hindsight is pretty good, so I'm thinking putting the pins in horizontally at the interface of the cast parts and the journal would be a decent way to go. I'm kind of concerned those pins will make that imaginary centrifugal force seem a little too real at some point.
That was very good. Liked the ingenuity in the set ups. I believe a small jack is often placed between the crank discs, opposite the crank pin, when turning a crankshaft like this to prevent bending and run out. An old engineering lecturer of mine used to come up with alternative humourous technical definitions. Crankshaft became "lunatic coal mine".
Great alternate method. It is a woodworker thing; but the brass impromptu jack components are called threaded inserts :). Very clever employment of them for your set-up. Love your work and videos. Thanks for all your work.
Thanks for the bit on the leaving the collar on the shaft and not tightening against the lathe chuck! I probably would have made that mistake for sure.
Just FYI. When iron cools in the mold, it can cool fast or slow. If it hits the sand, two three things happen. 1). Any moisture in the sand turns to steam. 2). The iron contours itself to the dry sand walls. 3). A thin skin of iron cools rapidly in contact with the sand. Firstly, if iron cools fast, the graphite soldifies as interstacial carbide. Old timers would dust the molds with a coal dust that reduces the surface effects of the sand. This skin of carbide iron is called white iron. If the graphite cools slowly is produced a laminar layout of strands like worms. If I add manganese and extra fero-silicone JUST before I pour, the graphite solidifies as balls or nodules. This is ductile iron. Using only ferro-silicone yields the wormy pattern which is grey iron. When you machine grey iron, try to climb cut into the edge to prevent edge chip out.
Heat treatment of castings reduces internal stress and aneals the white iron up to a point.
When I melt down brake rotors which are often a meehanite nodular iron, everything goes back into solution. Like adding surgar to water. Then many or most of the original innoculents will out gad, burn off or float to the top ad dross. So adding a tad of ferro silicone now will allow the iron to solidly as grey iron as opposed to the ductile it once was.
The white iron caused by rapid cooling can be useful. A steel ring was added to the mold in train wheels to force white iron to form on the rim. A real pain to machine but improves the life span of a train wheel.
When cutting this skin, you need a full carbide tool. Carbide tooling, unlike HSS tooling, does not do well with light cuts or spring cuts. It wants to take a heavier cut. So a finish cut in HSS may require 1 or 3 tho but the same cut in carbide is done at 10 to 15 tho. So adjust your hog accordingly.
Really enjoying the build of this motor. I think this engine may have been used by DuPont to make black powder. But don’t quote me.
Now this is what a comment section is for
Worth noting that it is magnesium that acts as a nodulizer for DI and not manganese. Also FeSi itself is not an adequate inoculant for cast iron, it usually includes a rare earth like cerium to act as a heterogeneous nucleation point. Also gray iron flakes are not “laminar/lamellar” it’s more of a randomly oriented sponge structure with interstitial aus/ferrite/pearlite
@@fowler123454321 You are correct. Laminar is not the correct technical term. Spaghettini like is more correct. For DI I use an innoculent made for meehanite style iron. Had to buy a drum the size of 55 gallon drum. Not cheap and will last me more years than I have. As I recall, it has magnesium, some manganese, some calcium and a bunch of ferro silicone and some other stuff. About 20 ingredients. I haven’t read the paperwork on it in a while as I am currently redoing my shop including a new furnace and muller among other things. I have the recipe for Oliver’s “semi-steel” and will experiment when I get back into it. Thanks for clarifying my incorrect use of the word laminar. I can tell you that the metalurgy of DI is not simple but it’s worth while being able to do it.
Great comments!
More that I ever knew..... which isn't much when it comes to casting.
Did a sand casting of aluminum in school.
@@devemch7851 ah I see. Yeah in that inoculant the calcium will act as your nucleation point while the magnesium acts as your nodulizer. Manganese and other stuff is usually to promote pearlite or whatever while the silicon is of course to encourage graphite development (change temperature of graphite eutectic reaction). All of this to say yea DI metallurgy is no joke! I’m currently writing my masters thesis on it!
That table you added to your bandsaw that was 100% totally your idea with no pressure from the viewers is working out quite nice!
Definitely. 😉
LoL 😂😆
@@Blondihacks No problems making a crank that way I have seen others here on various YT channels do similar.
It comes back to that simple thing: You can only do the things the tools in your shop allow you to do.
Its what I like about your channel (and a few others) you find ways to do things with what you have.
"Cast iron is basically the concrete of metals."
How does this make so much sense?
And Titebond is the Loctite of dead plant carcasses.
Very nice. Your intro had me looking at every detail, trying to find the mistake. Mostly I was just thinking about all the ways I would have screwed it up. :)
The best thing on this channel ist the approach from the standpoint of an average home shop machinist with limited machine capacity and space.
Classic model engineering at its best !
"Apply vertically and season with Loctite to taste"
I like how this was done, good job.
WATCH as "Gunshow" Quinn almost pretzel-ifies a crankshaft by bearing down on her tailstock with Hulk-like strength!
@Blondie
I can't watch any of my other machining channels without hearing your quote during every facing cut , "take a facing cut, as is tradition"
Abom79, Cutting Edge Engineering, This old Tony, AvE, and others all get the mental treatment...
When it happens I do the Imperial Fist shake.. wait that is YOU too!?!?!? Gaaaaaa
I find myself saying "tappy tap tap" and "Yahtzee" when watching other folks on RUclips
Don't forget that important task called 'chamfering'. After all, that's what separa.....
I think your conservative approach for maintaining the alignment of all pieces makes a lot of sense. Bravo, Quinn!
I may never even get near a lathe, but boy oh boy, it sure feels good watch you making your art while I sip a little coffee in a Saturday afternoon! Awesome work Quinn! For me, it turned out perfectly!
Stress proof and ductile should always be the go to!
You're really cranking out great videos!
I see what you did there. 😬
I'm glad I didn't have my headphones cranked up!
What using dividers to mark shoulders? You'll ruin them! Just use your calipers! "Everyone and their dog does it, and frankly I'm just surprised my dog can use machine tools"! 😂😂😂
Awesome work as always Quinn looking forward to seeing the rest of the build!
I used to make a little steam engines. I had a 9 x 36 Southbend lathe, BenchMaster knee mill, and all the cutters, gages, and assorted tools one collects after 40 years. Then in 2013 the Black Forest wild fire destroyed it all. I didn’t have the heart to build another shop but I enjoyed watching you work
I have a factory made steam engine with a 5" bore and was built before 1905 and the crank is built up this way ,you will be fine .Nice job I'll be following along .Jeff
Your in my head when I'm down in the shed machining and have me openly talking while I do each process. I do a chamfer and say to myself "as is tradition", when parting I call out in an above normal voice "Yahtzee". I think your being channeled through my subconscious.
Thanks, I enjoyed this video.
Fun fact, Gravely walk behind tractors used a pressed together crank and it is actually adjusted after assembly by persuading the pieces to move.
What a coincidence, I watched Paul Brodie’s video he posted yesterday just after your video and he shows this exact process on a motorbike crankshaft.
When making the bearings here is a trick from full sized engines that should work on your one as it is large enough. First work out the direction of rotation, drill in the lubricating hole on the inside of the top bearing use a dremel to create a shallow groove that runs with the direction of rotation down to the bearing split point. This will draw oil down to the bearing split. Now in the inside edge of the bottom bearing file a minute chamfer on the inside that runs with the direction of rotation but does not extend to the ends of the bearing so that both ends of the lower bearing are not bevelled. The effect of this is that oil is run down to the small chamfer in the bottom bearing, it runs along to the edges of the chamfer. As the shaft rotates the oil is dragged into the chamfer whose wedge profile squeezes the oil into the bearing surface creating a thin high pressure film of oil between the surfaces. When running at speed this high pressure oil layer extends the full rotation of the shaft and the shaft instead of laying in the bottom bearing brass floats in the middle of the bearings totally supported by oil. This is why the only wear a steam engine shaft bearing gets is during those times running up to and down from working speed. Steve
If you want more details I will pop a drawing on my website.
Thanks for all the suffering-for-your-art. Very enjoyable sufferings indeed.
nice machining, excellent flow and a tender, soft voice. nothing else to ask for.
I recall a colleague spending a whole afternoon setting up a built up crankshaft for a JAP engined vintage Morgan, all he was doing was trueing the taper on a crank pin end to bring the journals into alignment. I think after several hours deliberating he took 1 ½ thou off and was pleased with the result.
You are a master of problem solving because you approach them as an opportunity. EXCELLENT work as usual. Many many people do not retire for the evening with the same sense of GREAT accomplishment as you do.
I was looking for a mistake all through the video, and then when the crank shaft was mounted between centers after the center shaft was cut a flickering and smoking candle lit up. The flexing from the axial pressure was suddenly obvious. Now I wonder how it will fare when the crankshaft gets put under stress. While there won't be axial pressure on the shaft there will be angular forces produced by the cylinder and radial from the load on the engine.
There’s no wrong way to do anything as long as you end up where you need to be at the end! 6 of one, half a dozen of another when it comes to ways of doing things. Well done lady!
That's exactly what I tell people when they ask, why are you doing it that way? Because this is the way that's easiest for me and this is the way I learn to do it, and as long as the end result is the same then how you get there shouldn't really matter.
I would machine this part out of the solid. I hate working scale also. One of these days you might want to think about a floor mill. I used to have a Lagun floor mill when I had a shop when I was a kid. It came with a slotting head which came in handy on alot of specialized parts.
I have just subscribed to your channel and I enjoy your videos very much. One of the most amazing things that I learnt from you is that a chamfer is all that separates us from the animals. Next time I see a crazy person I am going to check for a chamfer
Another fine lesson in metal working
Concrete of metals is a great analogy. I love that.
THANK-YOU, QUINN !!!
I all-ways, always, Learn something from you ! You're a great machinist.
I was press fit into watching this video. Very little tension. Liked it.
Hasco style plugs.
Typically for terminating/diverting water/air lines after gun drilling.
If it turns out that you need to, you can still add taper pins. They can be sized so the small end is just bigger than the straight pins you now have. Don't forget that you can get taper pins with a bit of thread on the end to allow pulling them out. (Or you could cross drill the web for a taper pin under the functional pin to drive out the pin the same way a tapered wedge drives out a Morse taper from a drill press spindle.)
Pins and that loctite should be more than enough! It looks beautiful.
Those castings really are good quality. We can't get anything close down here in Aus.
Shop manuals for some 2 stroke motorcycles had instructions for assembling and aligning crankshafts. It generally involved surface plates, vee blocks, indicators, and mallets.
Lovely! Towards the end of the video I was literally holding my breath and sweating blood, but you absolutely nailed it. So happy for you!
One day I won’t carry the sense of impending dread that you create in the intro for the whole video.
Today is not that day...
very glad that it came good in the end! Looks perfect
This is the FASTEST 28:42 in the known universe. As usual, I am mesmerized. Thanks, Blondihacks, you are a GREAT teacher.
My grandad said to always make mandrels with center points, lathe dogs and with multiple backstops/sleeves. He said it cuts down on how many mandrels you will ever need to make. Plus he was a metal miser. Anyone who went through the great depression tended to be that way.
Yep, I had the same issue when checking after setting the centre shaft out. I didn't have a collet then but .... I did mine a little differently to save on the cutting centre shaft. I only drilled and loctited the crank pin (with the centre shaft right through then withdrew the shaft, machined the two halves an loctited in place
I keep waiting for someone to pin something like this the same way they use pins on full size steam engines. In stead of the pin being positioned at 90degrees to the shaft axis they pinned parallel to the shafts. A hole for the pin is drilled with the centre at the junction between the shaft and the crank so that half the diameter of the hole is in each part and drilled to the length of the shaft/crank intersection. This way the full length of the pin prevents the crank rotating on the shaft. Rather than just the diameter. I have a similar sized Stuart turner No5 crankshaft to do at some stage and will probably give it a go. Nice job. Steve
Best worker and getting better brothers.
Thank you for such interesting videos, I'm so please to see a lady doing such engineering work as my wife always tell me , of this male world been unjust to woman and she right but when i see such videos like your, I feel better , I myself try to rebuild and modify a motorcycle for long time I appreciate the knowledge of people in different application ,thank you very much Robert , in Australia
Very nice work with the built-up crankshaft. I've seen Keith Appleton use this method of building and pinning built-up crankshafts and when you stated early in the video you were going to pin it I knew your finished crankshaft would be straight and true in the end.
That is the way that I have always done crankshafts, Looks good!
8:14 Ah ha! Caught ya! Those are threaded inserts for (Da da dannnn) Woodworking! (Don't ask me how I know.)
How exactly do you know you have a ball-nose viewer??
...But seriously thank you for the continuing adventure and the miniature machinist's jack trick in particular.
Your skills continue to improve. You apply your intelligence, combine it with studying, and the results are ever improving skill sets. Well done, Quinn.
You confirm what I have learnt during my amateur machaining: Fixing the work properly takes at least the same amount of time as the machining itself.
Looks great! Love the crazy setups! Can't wait for more!
I ended up buying one of these engines having looked at them for a couple decade. I just received it yesterday, and am beginning the machine work today, I think I will start with these pieces, it's good to see someone like you choosing to do what you will. Thanks for a bit of inspiration.
Not a crankshaft, not a crankshaft, crankshaft.
That's why we watch. 👍
Can you add a twin screw supercharger to a steam engine? Asking for a friend. 😁
Facetious or not, the answer to the question is NO.
Running the exhaust steam up the smokestack to increase the draw of air to the fire is very nearly a turbocharger. It uses residual exhaust energy to increase performance.
@@kensherwin4544 You make the key point that performance in steam generation is what matters. A Roots blower in the path to the cylinder(s) will do less than nothing. Super-critical steam turbine installations are HIGHLY efficient.
For forge scale like that I find using ceramic flap discs or something similar works best. They are similar to obsidian and have a higher melting point that steel usually so it can be a nightmare to remove.
Another great journey! Thanks for bringing us along.
Press fit crankshafts are suuuuper common on motorcycle engines, and apparently dialing in the concentricity with a dial indicator and a copper hammer is not a big deal. Looks like the pins worked out just fine though. :)
Very cool! I look forward to your weekly video, and this one didn't disappoint!
Excellent approach to machining the part and hitting those close dimensions! 🙂
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!
Great skills. Beautiful result.
This really is a very high quality channel.
Always a pleasure to watch your thoughtful approach to machining in scale 👍🏻
This was an awesome video. What I like the most is that You show your difficulties and then the solutions. The way to teach and learn.
the scale is the crunchy outside to the soft yummy cast iron inside
Great *practical* applied knowledge, once again.
Thanks
This was really cool, i admire your patience, i hope to get to your level one day. In patience, and skill! Thanks for the video!
Some clever ideas that made for a neat result. Thanks for the video.
Hi Quinn, great video as usual. Went through this same process making a very small five piece crankshaft from a kit. Decided to build the same method as you show here and cut out the centre scrap piece right at the end (and file the faces flat) Threw all he original kit parts away after not getting it right (and beyond recovery) and made one from scratch. Your video brought back all the pain, but the end result is a nice one.
I always learn something watching these videos. Talking about large end mills, would love another mill series +1 episode on end mills specifically. When do you is a ball nose? What diameter end mill? 1/2 inch is more rigid, but does the extra tool pressure make DOC an issue with small mills? Does 1/2 have better life than say 1/4? Does 3/8 work well as roughing mill and 1/4 as finishing? Etc. Basically what works well with small mills from your experience?
Excellent engineering practice, well done. Great problem solving. Thank you for posting.
Your crankshaft sure did turn out nice, I'm with you on your approach to this part of the build Cheers.
That is just a work of art! I love watching you make the crankshaft because its the one thing im strugling with on my engine. I was just thinking today that a multi peice crank would solve a lot of problems with mine.
Beautiful work✔
Thanks for all the background info and minutia. It seems I learn something new in all your videos
Excellent job. You have an innate ability to overcome one of the most frustrating challenges of machine work, the problem of setup. You always find a great solution. Wonderful thinking.
Love your explanations and the overall quality of the video’s. So nice that you also show some failures. Finding solutions is better learning material than expecting a perfect word. Thanks for all the fun hours.
Well that was a dramatic episode. Glad the crankshaft was not distorted.
Enjoyed…nice discussion on the various setups and very clean build
Love the tutorial: Especially because I've been considering for some time to ditch the soft brass(?) crankshaft in my Markie for a more durable steel one!
Yes, you can press that assembly together. At that point, you have essentially created a mini-Harley Davidson crankshaft. It's worked for them for some time. You can then treat it like a very stiff ball joint, and true it with a deft touch with a hammer.
Allen Millyard style
For me, the techniques and ideas that you apply to your builds are useful in so many areas of machine work - I may never build a steam engine, but the hints and tips you share are absolutely invaluable to the other projects I will one day get around to!!.
Hi Quinn,
I used the same techinque on the crankshaft of my shay loco. Works well since 10 years. It also gave me the feature to use ball bearings on the enclosed shafts in my case, as I can take the crank shaft appart. Instead of loctite the pins in, I used clamping straps as on the real thing.
Keep up your progress. I can still learn a lot of high grate machine work here, mostly better than mine ;-)
Gerd
one of the keiths is rebuilding a stuart double 10v, shows a pretty neat trick for straightening a crankshaft.
"Finger mangling death machine" was my metal band name.
You are *so* patient. I can never be as good as you because I'm not: but I do admire your work.
This is really challenging and a bit complicated as well. I think that the original press fit is better since it will bring a stronger connection between the parts. A pin and Loktite is not the same. This will be strength-tested when you build the final engine. Thanks for sharing.
@@ellieprice363 Yes they are easier to assemble, no question of that. However, engine industry does not use that method. The crankshaft pins are cooled down and the outer parts are heated and then they are pressed together with a very large force. The fittings are such that the metals are pressed together so that there is absolutely no play. Rather, the metals are like one. The stresses subjected to the crankshaft parts are very high. Any looseness would cause an immediate failure. I am excited to see how this Loctite solution will go through later on.
This argument could go on forever but both methods are well proven. A press fit tight enough to be good enough is not something that I would try when it’s that close to the edge of cast iron.
Whew! You had me there at the run out test. Glad that worked out like it did.
Your method of pinning the shafts was definitely better than a press fit. I work on old Gravely tractor engines with the twin disk cranks which are press fit. The problem with that is if there is any torque impact on the crank it can mis-align the disks which can cause pronounced engine vibration.
Wow Quinn. You’re pretty smart!
Thanks for the escape from stuff!
Excellent machining Quinn.👍👍
Thank you for the excellent tip of grinding off the cast iron scale before commencing machine work. 👏👏👍😀
NIce out of the box thinking, grate results.
I watched my Dad turn for years n that lil chuck n tool post trick for recutting a centre was in his arsenal of em neat tricks. Awesome work Quinn👌🏻.
My hindsight is pretty good, so I'm thinking putting the pins in horizontally at the interface of the cast parts and the journal would be a decent way to go. I'm kind of concerned those pins will make that imaginary centrifugal force seem a little too real at some point.
An absolutely amazing video.
That was very good. Liked the ingenuity in the set ups. I believe a small jack is often placed between the crank discs, opposite the crank pin, when turning a crankshaft like this to prevent bending and run out. An old engineering lecturer of mine used to come up with alternative humourous technical definitions. Crankshaft became "lunatic coal mine".
Great alternate method. It is a woodworker thing; but the brass impromptu jack components are called threaded inserts :). Very clever employment of them for your set-up. Love your work and videos. Thanks for all your work.
Awesome work Quinn. Great video again.
Great video as always. I gotta tell ya though that copper washer off center was recalling picking at my OCD.
so cool ! amazing work. bravo une fois de plus , c'est une vidéo géniale. keep machining.
Thanks for the bit on the leaving the collar on the shaft and not tightening against the lathe chuck! I probably would have made that mistake for sure.
Thanks for sharing!
Really appreciate your videos. I’ve learned a ton. Thanks!