What a load of rubbish! I couldn't agree more, aside from the horribly annoying nasaly voice, what the hell is he talking about? High efficiency speakers are 'dangerous' to amplifiers....seriously? Or is this a case of a numbskull shorting out his amp' because of lame wiring? Or turning up the volume to MAX because he thinks that's the 'cool' thing to do?
100 percent correct. Guy clipped the amp or crossed wires! Cheap speakers, NO problem with a Marantz, sorry! I've used every major brand AVR you can name with all kinds of speakers in two channel, NEVER blown a one of them! Also, Marantz is NOT a class D amp, as is noted below! Read the literature. Lots of misinformation here! You could drive those Klipsch with a $25 Lepai class D one pound amp and never blow it, well, you could clip it but it would NOT take out a channel but just go protect and reboot when you turn it off and on again. No damage done.
Yeh he never did answer meaning he had no fricking clue other than he blew the channel. It definitely has nothing to do with high efficiency speakers or that receiver it’s that he cranked it and was flicking around on his phone and spiked the amp to peak amp and pop goes the line lol
Marantz AV have lots of issues . I can vouch for that as an owner of multiple marantz AV recievers. It's funny how you guys attacked this channel for reporting a problem ... Your all not bright enough to realize AV recievers are not the way to go for 2 channel stereo in the first place . Do some homework before you run your mouth .
Never consider a volume control as being a measure of the power the amplifier is delivering. It is just a control allowing more signal into the amplifier. Depending on the size of the input signal you could easily be driving the amplifier to full power with the control even midway from "max".
I have a very similar Marantz SR 7011 and the specs say it is a class A/B amp to the best of my knowledge. Mine has been stable at 4 ohm loads and is rated for it. I once had a piece of wire accidentally short one of the amps, putting it into protective mode without further issue. I'm guessing there was another problem with yours. I'm sure you're not the first to use Klipsch speakers with a Marantz receiver, given the popularity of both brands.
Anyone remember ELI the ICE man? Eli says that voltage leads or comes before current in an inductor ice says the current leads or comes first before voltage in a capacitor. Regarding the phase between voltage and current in an AC circuit, there is a 90 degree phase difference between the current and voltage. voltage leads the current by 90 degrees the EMF (E) is ahead of the current (I). In a circuit with capacitor and AC power source, the 90-degree phase difference also exists between the current and voltage but the voltage lags the current. This way using the cap (C) the voltage emf (E) is behind the current (I). So when you apply voltage to an inductor it resists and current and it builds up slower than with voltage lagging in time and phase technically. Capacitors are directly proportional to the charge and the current must lead the voltage in time in Phase to conduct charge to the plates and raise the voltage. Understanding that is you can realize that technically resistance dealing with AC circuits it's called impedance at this point, but the voltage and current are always linear in a pure resistance. People have used the letter Z often to refer to resistance in an AC circuit. So when referring to resistance in an AC circuit you can simply refer to the impedance. so you can certainly refer to resistance in an AC circuit just using the term impedance so you could say DC resistance equals AC impedance. Average power however in a resistive vs. Reactive circuit depends on phase angle in a purely resistive circuit obviously equal zero. If I remember correctly the power factor is equal to 1 so average power consumed by an AC resistance using Ohm's law is P=V.I = I (squared)R = V (squared) over R watts.
Dude that's exactly how I feel . I couldn't phkn make through to the end . He was stomping all over my last nerve by minute 2 and I made it to 5:12 ahhhhhhhhhhh
Let's just say you are clueless. Are you trying to tell me I shouldn't use a home theatre receiver which has a phono input for listening to stereo music?
Only in direct mode, everything that goes through a receiver is digitized, so why bother with analog? And other sources have the receiver DAC as the lowest common denominator. Every function of audio processing is done in the digital domain
@@musicman8270 Im not a digital hater or some sort but DAC in my experience isnt that great. I always has been more comfortable with analog listening in my home than digital listening, not because i think it sounds but because i find it fascinating. Collecting physical formats such as LP & CDs of my favorite music has always been something i enjoy and sees it as a part of decoration, i like the idea of making my living room look like my own musical and movie library . but that doesnt mean i rejects digital music or think analog sounds better. I do prefer digital listening when im travelling or walking with my mobile and headphones but i listen more to FLAC than MP3's these days. And i definetely prefer to download a PC game digitally on steam because downloading them with discs has always been a pain to me since my childhood. So im a half analog anf half digital person in different circumstances.
I'm telling you that , As an owner of Marantz AV . AV recievers are not optimised for stereo , nor are they designed for low impedence . They also do not have the quality sound of a dedicated 2 channel amplifier . If anybody told you different... Well common misconceptions happen .
Most AVRs are not class D. Class A/B is most common for AVRs. The SR7010 has A/B class amplifiers. You're more likely to find class D in amplifiers, soundbars, and powered speakers.
I totally agree they are as well and to be honest I am not a fan of plugging other amplifiers into them either unless it's a powered subwoofer. I want to hear the amp I brought in the first place not something else. I mean if it was no good in the first place why buy the bloody thing :))))))). And before anyone asks, I do know what a power amp is for but I do not feel the need for one, or the extra expense that comes with it :))))))). Mind you I bet it makes a louder bang if you blow it up :)))))))).
Harman Kardon avr 370 is class D. That's why it is sitting on a shelf somewhere after being replaced with something that can actually reproduce sound. Lesson learned.
Correct! This dude's a POD and doesn't know what the hell he's talking about.! Marantz is crap these days with 1 of the highest return rates among AVR's.
For those who like to connect external amplifiers. Thats what preamps are for. Yamaha makes an 11.2ch preamp with XLR outputs. Designed for home theater use.
What is the use of av receiver ,if you have to depend again on an external amplifier for trouble free music listening,what is the point in going for expensive marantz?
Speaker impedance fluctuates yes but newer amps and AVRs have settings for 4 6 and 8 ohms. At least every AVR I’ve had did. And yes u wanna make sure that you have no shorts to chassis from the speaker wires. And don’t double up speakers on one channel cuz that puts more strain on the amp because the resistance is lower.
Your cooling is same as mine I run same ACInfinity on top pf my Denon X7200WA since day 1. I run full Klipsch setup on my X7200WA and have never had a problem and I have run my unit at considerable power for considerable time.
I have a TEAC 5.1 Dolby and DTS av receiver from 2001 running 4 ohm speakers. The av receiver has a minimum of 8 ohms but I never push the volume over 60 to 75% unless I need to test different speakers for only a few seconds to a minute. I always listen at 50% it is the most comfortable listening volume while prolonging the lifespan of the power and pre amps
The impedence into the speakers constantly fluctuates. And certainy one doesn't want to use the volume to clipping -- and therefore overheating -- levels. Some want to run REAL LUD so they overspend on high-end speakers. Klipsh are crap, but they aren't "cheap".
You are smart to have cooling fans on that receiver. Lots of manufacturers use Large Scale ICs for power amps. Loaded with transistors, these modules run really hot. The reason for using modules is cost and space. But really poor for thermal management. Even on Marantz separates, there are output transistors on a "cooling tube" which is not as efficient as big heat sinks but save space. My only receiver is a 1974 Marantz 19. Each side has a full length heat sink. That's only for 50 wpc. But multi-channel receivers have a space problem. I recommend a separate power amp and then buy a disposable pre-pro.
The inusfficient heat-sinks -- in Denon's they tend to be a "ribbon" of thin aluminum -- is cost-cutting. "Audioholics" goes into detail about the annual cramming of more and more "features" (many of them useless) into the same-sized units. So adjunct cooling is a must.
I am not 100% percent that how you described what happened in the first place is right at all. I think this may have been a case of not paying too much attention to the operating instructions before you plugged in your speakers and turned it on in the first place. Most AV amp and receivers have either 1 button or 2 buttons you have to press and hold to set up the correct OHM's for your speakers. If this was not set right in the first place or if you had a bare wire touching the metal chassis that would of took out one of your channels for sure. It's certainly got bugger all to do with how cheap or expensive the speakers are.
I'll have to find a service manual on one of these receivers to see what exactly that setting does. Used to work in a repair shop and know how to read and understand diagrams.
@@jdmsz9378 Lowering the current automatically reduces the watts (power) since watts is voltage multiplied by current. This is why it is important to set the AVR to the correct nominal impedance of the speakers with the lowest average impedance. This reduces the current drawn by the load, i.e the speakers.
Impedence inot the speakers constantly fluctuates. The 8-hm "rating" became a "standard" durring the 1960s-70s; but it is more "fashion" than fact. Denon -- owned by Marantz -- is rated 4 to 16 ohm.
Why are so many Marantz owners suffering so many "blow up" problems with their surround sound AVR's? Marantz ain't cheap, so, WHAT THE HELL? Onkyo is also having the same issues too. This may be why Onkyo & Marantz have been selling a new 9.1 ATMOS AVR for under a $1,000. They're cheap because they've got cheap parts inside. Before anybody argues against what I wrote here, go checkout what I wrote vs owner reviews across the web. I'll stick to Yamaha, they've got 4 ohm drive and commercial strength surround sound chips. Yamaha DAC's are top notch too. Denon is supposedly another great AVR that's dependable. Myself, if I spend over $300 on any AVR it better do what it boasts. Shame on Marants and Onkyo sticking it to their buyers. ~ peace
Yeah, seems like somethings up. My 2013 Marantz AVR blew up over the weekend. It's stuck in protection mode. I'm looking at Yamaha, but so far, dunno' if it's the answer either.
My 7010 just went on the blink again, I can get into protection pass but amp flashes red lights when powered off/on. My Sony 5.1 DD amp is still going strong - I bought it in 1999.
At one point I was hired every weekend to DJ at a venue that was really just a big house with a stereo receiver and speakers for sound. I tried to talk the owner into adding pro dj equipment and even offered some of mine. They refused because they wanted to avoid the look and feel of a nightclub. So at one point we were blowing out a receiver like once a year. Pioneer, Denon ... it didn't matter. I suggested that it might be the speakers. Nobody agreed with me and nothing improved. One day finally we got new speakers and the receivers never blew again! I opened the old speakers which looked great on the outside. Inside the xover components had bulging caps, etc. I measure the components and speaker drivers. Many were faulty causing the amp to see a load of 2 ohms rather than the rated 8. Just one of these faulty speakers hooked up would be capable of blowing a home receiver or amp.
I'm a Megayacht Mechanic in Palm Beach . Marantz units are continually having problems and breaking in the field . You are correct they have problems . In fact most marantz digital products do . The bluetooth module and the pre amplifier out board failed . It also failed in another unit I had . I see tons of these a single ship may have 30+ recievers . I've seen it in the field - Hes right
Constant firmware update problems , expensive proprietary software dealer repairs.... Boards failing , bluetooth connection issues . Marantz is releasing unstable units then trying to fix it in the field with updates . If you dont need 13.2 Aros then consider other options and be wary of used units .
Your receiver from Marantz is very nice but like you said get the warranty like at bestbuy just incase you have a future problem your not sol .I want one of these
I’m using a Yamaha 7.1ch AV receiver for everything atm, and I’m not exactly happy with how it sounds for 2ch music playback. Eventually I want to have my 2ch music playback and movie/tv surround sound seperate in 2 different systems. I’d love to get an Emotiva pre amp and power amp set up for 2ch stereo music, and have a Yamaha or Denon surround sound AV receiver for movies and tv.
If this was a class D amplifier in this it would be rated 5. THD Instead of .003 THD .005 Thd or .008 Thd. class D amps are dirty nasty and should never be used for high Fidelity. I’ve always had the Onkyo flagships my first Onkyo I bought years ago sv 919 ran a THD level of .003 THD it’s still today has been the cleanest amplifier in a receiver that I’ve ever owned. though the last onkyo flag ship that I purchased had overheating problems it never ever blew any amps. I just can’t see an amplifier especially giving up the ghost for the reason that you state,. Sounds more like faulty transistor in your Marantz . I was looking at buying the new Marantz but I don’t know who to trust nowadays with quality. Ty
You are half wrong about that Surround amplifiers are not built for 2 channels stereo. While its true that the big brands tend to put less to no effort to make their surround amps sound good with stereo listening, there are exeptional good surround amps that are built both for hifi and movie purpose. Yamaha used to make good surround amps in the 90s with great component that went great with stereo listening like the DSP A1 and A2. From what i heard NAD and DENON tends to make their surround amps good for music and not just movies. NAD has always kept the audiophile quality even in their home theater.
Wow..... well, I have the Marantz 6011 AVR and run it with a pair of Klipsch Reference Premier 280F's (the flagship) on Spotify from my kitchen tablet (system is on ANOTHER floor) and I run it up to '0' level all the time. This has been going on for over a year now with no trouble.... Am I lucky? Not sure, but it is a simple setup, and I run a Rega RP-6 turntable into it's phono stage as well.......hmmmmmmm Two channel, free and clear (O:
I used to be an electronics repair tech before I switched to the computer field. I used to see hundreds of amps and other units that needed repair. Most of the time the owner could not remember what the cause was. I would say most often the power supply failed due to faulty caps or the amp circuit blew from being pushed to hard or heat. Also components just are faulty and fail. I also should note that I saw all brands .. Sony, Marantz, Pioneer, etc. I suspect your problem was just simply a faulty component. I advise folks to push their equipment hard while still under warranty to find any obvious faults.
av receivers these days r not as protected inside as they used to be earlier. they go in protect mode when the internal component ia damaged, but they should be in protect mode as soon as a short occurs in one speaker channel. my yamahaa avr says "checl spkr" when there is a speaker wire shorting. It doesnt wait for components to blow up before theowing error message
Interesting video. But as for running a AVR in stereo...I have to disagree. I've done that so many times over the decades. No issues at all. I just made sure I had 8 ohms speakers. Didn't use terminated cables every time. Or not from the factory (e.g. brand name Audio Quest for example). I blew out my amp on my "ghetto blaster" as a teen because I didn't know any better. Forgot to switch the voltage to the correct setting. :P I think I was 10 :) But did still know enough about electronics and current that it's different when overseas. :) That you do need to make sure the electronics even if bought there was set up to be run there. I was in Asia. :) Bought the blaster in Asia. :)
If you crank up the volume on your av receiver and it shuts off when you crank up the volume past half way but realize it doesn't shut off when you keep the volume at a very low level then don't try to keep it running at really low volume otherwise you will blow up your receiver the reason it blew up was because you were operating it at a very low volume level when it shuts off only at very high volume level
Good job ! I'm impressed I actually use a 2 channel pioneer elite sx-n30 hi--res network receiver class AB and 85 watts at 8-ohm built in amp that was 799.00 new kind of steep for a 2 channel receiver but I don't use the internal amp I use The elite as a pre-amp it has 2 full range preo-outs and 2 subwoofer pre-outs detachable power cable wifi Bluetooth and sounds amazing with the emotiva basx A-300 it has so much warmness and detailed I almost bought the onkyo 8050 but bass was at 50mhz where the pioneer is at 100mhz double that I use a separate DAC but the built in Dac is almost as good well it was until I added a better power supply and cables with Dac but your right AVR really don't sound as good as 2 channel for music but marantz avr is really good so Klispch was at 8ohms what was your marantz set at 6-ohms? my pioneer switches from 4-6-8 nice feature thanks for the review check out my channel and how's the svs towers ?
thanks for your comment hey I wanted to ask u another question i notice when i play just music in just the stereo mode it seems that u have to put the volume way up and it just doesn't seem as good as if you were playing a movie it seems to me this avr is really set up more for videos i know when i play a movie its un believeable i know i really need a two channel amp or receiver thanks
It may be too late for this response, but check your Audessey settings. I had the same problem, and fixed it - now 2 channel sounds far better. For my Marantz receiver, different inputs and configurations have different dynamic EQ settings - with dynamic EQ off for 2 channel listening, my output is very, very low. Once I have the Dynamic EQ on, 2 channel plays at full output.
i know they but i think stereo modes sound less like vintage audio which kinda was surround with two speakers unlike fake all channel stereo which will blow your back speakers if you forget to turn down the bass
For mostly movie duties, is Denon better than Marantz? Also is the Audessy XT32 a well worth upgrade to the XT? My living room is not treated with sound proofing etc. Just a standard room with it's flaw for sure.
I like the Marantz models a bit better although they are both made by the same company... so although they are a bit different, the same parts mainly go into the models that are comparable.
Audessy XT32 allows setting crossovers for different sets of speakers. XT alone only has one crossover setting. XT32 is a vast iprovement in configuration and tweaking.
I am facing a strange issue with my marantz sr5013 .from last 3days my subwoofer is vibrating there is no more kick from sub.i changed the RCA cable but no improvement .can you please help me what could be the issue with receiver .this is the 2nd receiver which is having same issue just after 1year
@@tacticalAV Klitsch are crap, but not cheap. And cheap speakers aren't the issue either. Neither is the impedence rating, as impedence fluctuates constantly into the speaker.
was it worth spending $200.00 on adding auro 3 d to your marantz avr sr 7010 I have the sr7011 and i was thinking about adding it to my system i am running a 7.2.4 system right now and was it easy to download i just hate to spend the extra money when the dolby atmos and the dts master sound great . is there that much of a difference between the three i just wanted someone else's opinion. thanks
To be honest with you if you are extremely interested in getting the best possible sound modes then yes, it is worth it, although if you are just going to use the unit for movies and music, and what sound mode it is in isn't of concern...The auro 3D uses the height channels like atmos and DTS X so if you have elevation or ceiling speakers yes, if not than no. There is no significant difference in the quality of audio coming from the receiver itself.
So the only real risk is to play music through 2 channel mode? I have polk rti4 bookshelf speakers for rear surrounds (cheap) connected directly to 6013 receiver but never listen through two channel. I should be safe?
You should be safe using those speakers even in 2 channel mode. But when powering any cheap speakers they aren't always 8 ohms as advertised which can damage both the speakers and the amp but in this case the amp shut off before sending damage to the speakers thankfully. But lesson learned that the crossovers in the speakers are actually what causes the problem and if they're cheap crossovers the amp will notice that when cranked up loud and things get scary.
@@tacticalAV It's the cranking it up loud that overheated the amp -- not the speakers, and not the corssover, blah, blah, blah. The impedence into the speakers constantly fluctuates, so the ohm-rating limited to 8 is "fashion," not fact. Denon -- owned by Marantz -- "allows" impedence 4 to 16.
Looking at this ame amplifier on my bench, looks like its an analog amplifier Not a class D PWM type, there would be large inductors on the output section if it were class D.
i bought an onkyo and it was unrelable i loved the sound quality but it had bad protection like the marantz bad protection i really think only yahmaha and pioneer have great protection
This explanation has a lot of guess work in it. The writer expects a "jump" between terminals on a cheap speaker, says a Marantz SR7010 has a class D amp, says "some speakers aren't a flat 8 ohm load", (almost none are) and the crossover determines the "resistance" of a speaker? The last point. The crossover can modify the impedance of a speaker system, the main part of the impedance is determined by the drivers themselves. And it is impedance not resistance that counts. This explanation leaves lots of questions and no answers. He may be right about the Klipsch speakers being a problem with the Marantz as many of their speakers drop to 4 ohms and some a little less even though they are rated as "8 ohms compatible" I'm having no trouble, but I don't run the Marantz very hard and yes, it runs hot.
?? don't follow what you're saying, many years ago worked in a repair shop and helped fix a lot of things but don't know much about this new receivers. they have an adjustment so they can drive 4 ohm or 8 oh m speakers, but without seeing a diagram i don't know what exactly what that does. I'd ask the dealer or the tech that repaired it for advice.
@@jnagarya519 not really... Most of the Soundstage of a movie is played through front. channels., they are the most active and usually much larger speakers. These larger speakers require more power. You get get by with just using the receivers amps but you'll get way better performance using an outboard Amp
We’ve decide to throw our expensive receiver in the garbage and look for in that has been torture tested. And built with some kind of quality? If there is one
Well hi-fi marantz audio like that was not built for abuse, so sensitive, i have a diy pioneer-sa-8800 diagram audio power was rated at 8ohm but to my surprised it can drive and abused 4-ohm load - 250w for 5hrs NCS-music deep bass torture
Dude, a little study in the log scale is in order. Please learn the DB scale and the power scale used in audio. A change of 3 db is doubling or halving the power. A change of 6 db is doubling or 1/2ing the power. Volume controls are LOGARITHMIC as hearing is not linear. The volume does not set the power.. Let me repeat the volume knob does not set the power. The volume knob adjusts the input attenuation to the main amp and nothing more. Think of it as a multiplier. Volume at zero. Input times zero is zero. Volume at max, input at zero, output is at zero in theory. OK some hiss is non zero in reality. With full nominal input most amp receivers will clip full power at about 2/3 full volume. The extra on the volume above 2/3 setting is so more attenuation can be removed when the input source is low. It is like the input at 0.707 so you can multiply by 1.414 to obtain a 1 out. Whether your amp blew from your speakers, a manufacturing defect, or failure of the over-current protection in the amp from a stray wire short at the speaker terminals is hard to know post failure. I am an electronics technician by trade. I repair this stuff for a living. I am ISCET certified. Ask your repair shop to show your amp at clipping on the bench if he has time to show you this. You will find there is a peak voltage the amp can produce and not exceed. Variations of the volume knob and source program level produce the output levels. The amp with normal program material will clip well before max volume on the knob. For the complex impedance of some speakers, ask if your repair tech can set up the scope to show the speaker voltage and current as separate traces using a current transformer or current shunt on the speaker return. From this you can see the damping force of the amp when the speaker has high reactive components in the impedance. Most class D amps have no problems with this if they are designed with a high damping factors. Analog class AB amps may tend to overheat on complex impedances due to the high current at low voltages on the transistors.
Thank you for the clarification, that was more helpful than most online literature I could find. A lot of people commenting on the video seem to disagree weather the amplifier I own the sr7010 from Marantz is a class A B or class D amplifier. I've searched the internet and I've talked to Marantz, they tell me ab, although it's obvious what I'm look at here. I have also had conflicting answers from certain techs and salesman. What can you tell me about this?
@@tacticalAV This particular model has the traditional class AB power amp section for low noise (high S/N Ratio) and flat response from 20hz to 20 KHZ with no more than 0.005% THD. Class D amps due to the PWM and use of the inductor in the low pass filter, they don't quite achieve this sound specifications. Class D amps are known for very high power levels especially at low frequencies and are often used for sub-woofers and low cost amps at the expense of sound quality. Most class D amps are unable to meet the 20-20KHZ at 0.005 THD spec with a low noise floor.
@@isettech Ok , thank you for clearing that up for me. That is undeniably a popular debate among the people watching this video. I understand the current shunt to introduce resistance into the circuit between the 2 points although does the current shunt produce more resistance than the using a transformer would? Obviously no transformer introduces no resistance but just less than the shunt.
@@tacticalAV Current shunts are generally very low resistance and only a small fraction of the load. For example a 50mV 50A shunt has a resistance of 0.001 ohms. The advantage in audio is it is linear and not subject to low frequency roll off or phase shift at low frequencies. A common misunderstanding of a current transformer is they have no insertion loss. They as a transformer have a Voltage and Current turns ratio. For example a 100:1 transformer will take 10 Amps and produce 0.01 Amps into a short on the secondary. If you use a resistor on the secondary, then the voltage drop on the primary is 1/100th of the voltage on the sense resistor. Unfortunately most current transformers are not built for 20 Hz to 20 KHZ. Most are for AC power and are flat between 50hz and 400 hz. In addition as a transformer they do introduce a small amount of inductance. For this reason instrumentation of audio is best with a current shunt and sense amplifier. This is especially true when you need to see the phase relation between current and voltage on an audio signal into a reactive speaker load. Due to signal to ratio issues at low currents, hall sensor current sensors are sometimes used in high power applications to look at harmonic currents.
I never go above 0db or 80 volume. Assuming audyssey EQ doesn't interfere and make my 0db higher then it should be... Aren't the odds really really good that I'm staying clear of clipping?
I run my audio a lot , I’m not sure if any product can run 3,000 hours without failing, why do Americans make junk ? I had a 70s version receiver it never failed ? And it was used for decades. Why ? Because they use to make solid products
Lol wait until you find out the repairs are from 3rd party’s, that means they can put any junk parts they have, and the junky repair people could care less
Let's just say you are clueless. If the problem is your speaker, it will blew up both channel. I think the problem is you were using spotify and you set the volume on spotify too loud so it blew up the right channel.
you shouldnt have to pay for it no matter what its bs when they cheap out on the amp board yamaha may not sound as good but atleast it doesnt blow screw wifi use pc or bluetueth always wifi lags on everthing
... and those fans placed on top will definitely interfere with the internals ! - Very bad idea. This is why manufacturers switched to passive cooling with aluminium blocks years ago although it's much more expensive than putting 2 PC fans in the case.
No marantz is class A/B it is pioneer that is class D it wasn't the speakers or the wire the amplifier was just a dud. I use 6 ohm speakers on a receiver rated for just 8 ohms and I have had it at volume 57 out of 60 and the receiver stays room temp and there is no distortion.
receivers are crap now they cram all these fancy features instead of caring about the most impprtant thing amps its bc htrs are cheaply made no matter how expensive they are
you know i was reading some of your comments from other people and you get some of guys who think they are home theater gurus and probably know a little about home theater but some of these guys are real ass holes all you was doing was trying to explain your situation and what happened in the end hey ive been doing this a long time know and every situation is different plus they weren't there when problem occured and you just keep what your doing and have fun that what this all about any ways its all about trial and error
I don’t know if I’ve ever heard someone explain so much about nothing!
Oh Man I thought I was the Only One...SMH Total waste of Time
What a load of rubbish! I couldn't agree more, aside from the horribly annoying nasaly voice, what the hell is he talking about? High efficiency speakers are 'dangerous' to amplifiers....seriously? Or is this a case of a numbskull shorting out his amp' because of lame wiring? Or turning up the volume to MAX because he thinks that's the 'cool' thing to do?
narcissistic traits , wanna show to the group of people he ll never meet that he own piece of expensive crapp
He LOVES to hear himself talk -- epsecially with an audience.
No shit.
I get the feeling that his amp blew up because he is abusive and pushed things too far.
100 percent correct. Guy clipped the amp or crossed wires! Cheap speakers, NO problem with a Marantz, sorry! I've used every major brand AVR you can name with all kinds of speakers in two channel, NEVER blown a one of them! Also, Marantz is NOT a class D amp, as is noted below! Read the literature. Lots of misinformation here! You could drive those Klipsch with a $25 Lepai class D one pound amp and never blow it, well, you could clip it but it would NOT take out a channel but just go protect and reboot when you turn it off and on again. No damage done.
Yeh he never did answer meaning he had no fricking clue other than he blew the channel. It definitely has nothing to do with high efficiency speakers or that receiver it’s that he cranked it and was flicking around on his phone and spiked the amp to peak amp and pop goes the line lol
Marantz AV have lots of issues .
I can vouch for that as an owner of multiple marantz AV recievers.
It's funny how you guys attacked this channel for reporting a problem ...
Your all not bright enough to realize AV recievers are not the way to go for 2 channel stereo in the first place .
Do some homework before you run your mouth .
Theres too many idiots like you saturating every channel with uneducated opinions confusing everyone else ....
Shut the hell up .
So I'm confused...it looked like the repair report said caused by bad speaker. So what was the cause of the blown channel?
Whatever you probably hooked something up wrong. I’ve used my klipsch rp-160 with my denon with no amp and had no problem.
Could you drag this out a bit longer ?
Still didn’t make the 10 min mark
Never consider a volume control as being a measure of the power the amplifier is delivering. It is just a control allowing more signal into the amplifier. Depending on the size of the input signal you could easily be driving the amplifier to full power with the control even midway from "max".
I have a very similar Marantz SR 7011 and the specs say it is a class A/B amp to the best of my knowledge. Mine has been stable at 4 ohm loads and is rated for it. I once had a piece of wire accidentally short one of the amps, putting it into protective mode without further issue.
I'm guessing there was another problem with yours. I'm sure you're not the first to use Klipsch speakers with a Marantz receiver, given the popularity of both brands.
So you're not sure about what you're not sure about.. Klipsch on the other hand is far from being a "cheap" solution..
Marantz sucks!
@@1mykalfury No Marantz doesn't if used correctly.
Lol
@@1mykalfury Not the old Marantz
It's always someone else's fault. In rality, speaker impedence to speakers ocnstantly fluctuates.
Anyone remember ELI the ICE man? Eli says that voltage leads or comes before current in an inductor ice says the current leads or comes first before voltage in a capacitor. Regarding the phase between voltage and current in an AC circuit, there is a 90 degree phase difference between the current and voltage. voltage leads the current by 90 degrees the EMF (E) is ahead of the current (I). In a circuit with capacitor and AC power source, the 90-degree phase difference also exists between the current and voltage but the voltage lags the current. This way using the cap (C) the voltage emf (E) is behind the current (I). So when you apply voltage to an inductor it resists and current and it builds up slower than with voltage lagging in time and phase technically. Capacitors are directly proportional to the charge and the current must lead the voltage in time in Phase to conduct charge to the plates and raise the voltage. Understanding that is you can realize that technically resistance dealing with AC circuits it's called impedance at this point, but the voltage and current are always linear in a pure resistance. People have used the letter Z often to refer to resistance in an AC circuit. So when referring to resistance in an AC circuit you can simply refer to the impedance. so you can certainly refer to resistance in an AC circuit just using the term impedance so you could say DC resistance equals AC impedance. Average power however in a resistive vs. Reactive circuit depends on phase angle in a purely resistive circuit obviously equal zero. If I remember correctly the power factor is equal to 1 so average power consumed by an AC resistance using Ohm's law is
P=V.I = I (squared)R = V (squared) over R watts.
Let’s be real here it blew because you didn’t remove that front sticker...
Well, I disagree: it was becuase he was using an APP.
0:10 my Marantz Amp blew up, well
4:00 my Marantz Amp blew up, well
9:00 Marantz Amp working-well
9:34 Veiwers -- 😵😵😵
Dude that's exactly how I feel . I couldn't phkn make through to the end . He was stomping all over my last nerve by minute 2 and I made it to 5:12 ahhhhhhhhhhh
Let's just say you are clueless. Are you trying to tell me I shouldn't use a home theatre receiver which has a phono input for listening to stereo music?
Only in direct mode, everything that goes through a receiver is digitized, so why bother with analog? And other sources have the receiver DAC as the lowest common denominator. Every function of audio processing is done in the digital domain
@@musicman8270 Im not a digital hater or some sort but DAC in my experience isnt that great. I always has been more comfortable with analog listening in my home than digital listening, not because i think it sounds but because i find it fascinating. Collecting physical formats such as LP & CDs of my favorite music has always been something i enjoy and sees it as a part of decoration, i like the idea of making my living room look like my own musical and movie library .
but that doesnt mean i rejects digital music or think analog sounds better.
I do prefer digital listening when im travelling or walking with my mobile and headphones but i listen more to FLAC than MP3's these days.
And i definetely prefer to download a PC game digitally on steam because downloading them with discs has always been a pain to me since my childhood.
So im a half analog anf half digital person in different circumstances.
I'm telling you that ,
As an owner of Marantz AV .
AV recievers are not optimised for stereo , nor are they designed for low impedence .
They also do not have the quality sound of a dedicated 2 channel amplifier .
If anybody told you different...
Well common misconceptions happen .
I prefer physical formats than digital too!
Most AVRs are not class D. Class A/B is most common for AVRs. The SR7010 has A/B class amplifiers. You're more likely to find class D in amplifiers, soundbars, and powered speakers.
I totally agree they are as well and to be honest I am not a fan of plugging other amplifiers into them either unless it's a powered subwoofer. I want to hear the amp I brought in the first place not something else. I mean if it was no good in the first place why buy the bloody thing :))))))). And before anyone asks, I do know what a power amp is for but I do not feel the need for one, or the extra expense that comes with it :))))))). Mind you I bet it makes a louder bang if you blow it up :)))))))).
Harman Kardon avr 370 is class D. That's why it is sitting on a shelf somewhere after being replaced with something that can actually reproduce sound. Lesson learned.
Correct!
This dude's a POD and doesn't know what the hell
he's talking about.!
Marantz is crap these days with 1 of the highest
return rates among AVR's.
For those who like to connect external amplifiers. Thats what preamps are for. Yamaha makes an 11.2ch preamp with XLR outputs. Designed for home theater use.
@@1mykalfury wow I hate to hear thst as a few months back I bought an SR7012........no issues yet, keep uour fingers crossed.
What is the use of av receiver ,if you have to depend again on an external amplifier for trouble free music listening,what is the point in going for expensive marantz?
Speaker impedance fluctuates yes but newer amps and AVRs have settings for 4 6 and 8 ohms. At least every AVR I’ve had did. And yes u wanna make sure that you have no shorts to chassis from the speaker wires. And don’t double up speakers on one channel cuz that puts more strain on the amp because the resistance is lower.
Your cooling is same as mine I run same ACInfinity on top pf my Denon X7200WA since day 1. I run full Klipsch setup on my X7200WA and have never had a problem and I have run my unit at considerable power for considerable time.
I have a TEAC 5.1 Dolby and DTS av receiver from 2001 running 4 ohm speakers. The av receiver has a minimum of 8 ohms but I never push the volume over 60 to 75% unless I need to test different speakers for only a few seconds to a minute. I always listen at 50% it is the most comfortable listening volume while prolonging the lifespan of the power and pre amps
The impedence into the speakers constantly fluctuates. And certainy one doesn't want to use the volume to clipping -- and therefore overheating -- levels. Some want to run REAL LUD so they overspend on high-end speakers. Klipsh are crap, but they aren't "cheap".
Nice looking Marantz. glad you got that working again.
Thanks man, I appreciate it!
You welcome.
You are smart to have cooling fans on that receiver. Lots of manufacturers use Large Scale ICs for power amps. Loaded with transistors, these modules run really hot. The reason for using modules is cost and space. But really poor for thermal management. Even on Marantz separates, there are output transistors on a "cooling tube" which is not as efficient as big heat sinks but save space. My only receiver is a 1974 Marantz 19. Each side has a full length heat sink. That's only for 50 wpc. But multi-channel receivers have a space problem. I recommend a separate power amp and then buy a disposable pre-pro.
I had a ac infinity t10 on my denon x4400h and still will get hot that's why i said forgot avr go with separates
Thanks. It's been great since 1974.No rebuilds. Scope still works which is amazing.
The inusfficient heat-sinks -- in Denon's they tend to be a "ribbon" of thin aluminum -- is cost-cutting. "Audioholics" goes into detail about the annual cramming of more and more "features" (many of them useless) into the same-sized units.
So adjunct cooling is a must.
I am not 100% percent that how you described what happened in the first place is right at all. I think this may have been a case of not paying too much attention to the operating instructions before you plugged in your speakers and turned it on in the first place. Most AV amp and receivers have either 1 button or 2 buttons you have to press and hold to set up the correct OHM's for your speakers. If this was not set right in the first place or if you had a bare wire touching the metal chassis that would of took out one of your channels for sure. It's certainly got bugger all to do with how cheap or expensive the speakers are.
The ohm setting on avrs only changes the amount of current going through the speakers not the wattage.
I'll have to find a service manual on one of these receivers to see what exactly that setting does. Used to work in a repair shop and know how to read and understand diagrams.
@@jdmsz9378 Lowering the current automatically reduces the watts (power) since watts is voltage multiplied by current. This is why it is important to set the AVR to the correct nominal impedance of the speakers with the lowest average impedance. This reduces the current drawn by the load, i.e the speakers.
Impedence inot the speakers constantly fluctuates. The 8-hm "rating" became a "standard" durring the 1960s-70s; but it is more "fashion" than fact. Denon -- owned by Marantz -- is rated 4 to 16 ohm.
@@cbcdesign001 What is the "loest average impedence" of these three sets of tower speakers, and one center speaker:
4, 4, 6, 8?
The conclusions you make seem reasonable, (rolling eyes)
Why are so many Marantz owners suffering
so many "blow up" problems with their surround sound AVR's?
Marantz ain't cheap, so, WHAT THE HELL?
Onkyo is also having the same issues too.
This may be why Onkyo & Marantz have been selling a new
9.1 ATMOS AVR for under a $1,000.
They're cheap because they've got cheap parts inside.
Before anybody argues against what I wrote here, go checkout
what I wrote vs owner reviews across the web.
I'll stick to Yamaha, they've got 4 ohm drive and commercial strength
surround sound chips.
Yamaha DAC's are top notch too.
Denon is supposedly another great AVR that's dependable.
Myself, if I spend over $300 on any AVR it better do what it boasts.
Shame on Marants and Onkyo sticking it to their buyers.
~ peace
FYI. Denon and Marantz are the same company
Yeah, seems like somethings up. My 2013 Marantz AVR blew up over the weekend. It's stuck in protection mode. I'm looking at Yamaha, but so far, dunno' if it's the answer either.
My 7010 just went on the blink again, I can get into protection pass but amp flashes red lights when powered off/on. My Sony 5.1 DD amp is still going strong - I bought it in 1999.
At one point I was hired every weekend to DJ at a venue that was really just a big house with a stereo receiver and speakers for sound. I tried to talk the owner into adding pro dj equipment and even offered some of mine. They refused because they wanted to avoid the look and feel of a nightclub. So at one point we were blowing out a receiver like once a year.
Pioneer, Denon ... it didn't matter. I suggested that it might be the speakers. Nobody agreed with me and nothing improved. One day finally we got new speakers and the receivers never blew again!
I opened the old speakers which looked great on the outside. Inside the xover components had bulging caps, etc. I measure the components and speaker drivers. Many were faulty causing the amp to see a load of 2 ohms rather than the rated 8.
Just one of these faulty speakers hooked up would be capable of blowing a home receiver or amp.
I'm a Megayacht Mechanic in Palm Beach .
Marantz units are continually having problems and breaking in the field .
You are correct they have problems .
In fact most marantz digital products do .
The bluetooth module and the pre amplifier out board failed . It also failed in another unit I had .
I see tons of these a single ship may have 30+ recievers .
I've seen it in the field -
Hes right
Constant firmware update problems , expensive proprietary software dealer repairs....
Boards failing , bluetooth connection issues .
Marantz is releasing unstable units then trying to fix it in the field with updates .
If you dont need 13.2 Aros then consider other options and be wary of used units .
Buy yourself a nice AC Infiniti fan and get rid those old junky fans on top of a nice looking receiver. You're welcome!!
Didn't understand. Did you mean we should use external amp like emotiva with marantz to power Klipsch speakers. Will it be safe then.
Your receiver from Marantz is very nice but like you said get the warranty like at bestbuy just incase you have a future problem your not sol .I want one of these
I’m using a Yamaha 7.1ch AV receiver for everything atm, and I’m not exactly happy with how it sounds for 2ch music playback. Eventually I want to have my 2ch music playback and movie/tv surround sound seperate in 2 different systems. I’d love to get an Emotiva pre amp and power amp set up for 2ch stereo music, and have a Yamaha or Denon surround sound AV receiver for movies and tv.
If this was a class D amplifier in this it would be rated 5. THD
Instead of .003 THD .005 Thd or .008 Thd.
class D amps are dirty nasty and should never be used for high Fidelity.
I’ve always had the Onkyo flagships my first Onkyo I bought years ago sv 919 ran a THD level of .003 THD it’s still today has been the cleanest amplifier in a receiver that I’ve ever owned.
though the last onkyo flag ship that I purchased had overheating problems it never ever blew any amps.
I just can’t see an amplifier especially giving up the ghost for the reason that you state,.
Sounds more like faulty transistor in your Marantz .
I was looking at buying the new Marantz but I don’t know who to trust nowadays with quality.
Ty
Jose Lopez....919 was also my best sounding receiver. I still have it. It was heavy as crap too
You are half wrong about that Surround amplifiers are not built for 2 channels stereo. While its true that the big brands tend to put less to no effort to make their surround amps sound good with stereo listening, there are exeptional good surround amps that are built both for hifi and movie purpose. Yamaha used to make good surround amps in the 90s with great component that went great with stereo listening like the DSP A1 and A2.
From what i heard NAD and DENON tends to make their surround amps good for music and not just movies. NAD has always kept the audiophile quality even in their home theater.
Wow..... well, I have the Marantz 6011 AVR and run it with a pair of Klipsch Reference Premier 280F's (the flagship) on Spotify from my kitchen tablet (system is on ANOTHER floor) and I run it up to '0' level all the time. This has been going on for over a year now with no trouble.... Am I lucky? Not sure, but it is a simple setup, and I run a Rega RP-6 turntable into it's phono stage as well.......hmmmmmmm Two channel, free and clear (O:
Vinyl is dumb.
I used to be an electronics repair tech before I switched to the computer field. I used to see hundreds of amps and other units that needed repair. Most of the time the owner could not remember what the cause was. I would say most often the power supply failed due to faulty caps or the amp circuit blew from being pushed to hard or heat.
Also components just are faulty and fail. I also should note that I saw all brands .. Sony, Marantz, Pioneer, etc.
I suspect your problem was just simply a faulty component. I advise folks to push their equipment hard while still under warranty to find any obvious faults.
I've never heard anyone saying"well" so many times...
I see your point, and well...
Impedence into speakers constantly fluctuates.
av receivers these days r not as protected inside as they used to be earlier. they go in protect mode when the internal component ia damaged, but they should be in protect mode as soon as a short occurs in one speaker channel. my yamahaa avr says "checl spkr" when there is a speaker wire shorting. It doesnt wait for components to blow up before theowing error message
Could this guy say "well" any more?? Just trying to sound like a deep thinker I guess lol
Interesting video. But as for running a AVR in stereo...I have to disagree. I've done that so many times over the decades. No issues at all. I just made sure I had 8 ohms speakers. Didn't use terminated cables every time. Or not from the factory (e.g. brand name Audio Quest for example).
I blew out my amp on my "ghetto blaster" as a teen because I didn't know any better. Forgot to switch the voltage to the correct setting. :P I think I was 10 :) But did still know enough about electronics and current that it's different when overseas. :) That you do need to make sure the electronics even if bought there was set up to be run there. I was in Asia. :) Bought the blaster in Asia. :)
If you crank up the volume on your av receiver and it shuts off when you crank up the volume past half way but realize it doesn't shut off when you keep the volume at a very low level then don't try to keep it running at really low volume otherwise you will blow up your receiver the reason it blew up was because you were operating it at a very low volume level when it shuts off only at very high volume level
Good job ! I'm impressed I actually use a 2 channel pioneer elite sx-n30 hi--res network receiver class AB and 85 watts at 8-ohm built in amp that was 799.00 new kind of steep for a 2 channel receiver but I don't use the internal amp I use The elite as a pre-amp it has 2 full range preo-outs and 2 subwoofer pre-outs detachable power cable wifi Bluetooth and sounds amazing with the emotiva basx A-300 it has so much warmness and detailed I almost bought the onkyo 8050 but bass was at 50mhz where the pioneer is at 100mhz double that I use a separate DAC but the built in Dac is almost as good well it was until I added a better power supply and cables with Dac but your right AVR really don't sound as good as 2 channel for music but marantz avr is really good so Klispch was at 8ohms what was your marantz set at 6-ohms? my pioneer switches from 4-6-8 nice feature thanks for the review check out my channel and how's the svs towers ?
thanks for your comment hey I wanted to ask u another question i notice when i play just music in just the stereo mode it seems that u have to put the volume way up and it just doesn't seem as good as if you were playing a movie it seems to me this avr is really set up more for videos i know when i play a movie its un believeable i know i really need a two channel amp or receiver thanks
Stereo in AVRs tend not to include subwoofer, except in "All Channel Stereo".
It may be too late for this response, but check your Audessey settings. I had the same problem, and fixed it - now 2 channel sounds far better. For my Marantz receiver, different inputs and configurations have different dynamic EQ settings - with dynamic EQ off for 2 channel listening, my output is very, very low. Once I have the Dynamic EQ on, 2 channel plays at full output.
Does the front HDMI on the slimline model support 4K 60fps only?
i know they but i think stereo modes sound less like vintage audio which kinda was surround with two speakers unlike fake all channel stereo which will blow your back speakers if you forget to turn down the bass
For mostly movie duties, is Denon better than Marantz? Also is the Audessy XT32 a well worth upgrade to the XT? My living room is not treated with sound proofing etc. Just a standard room with it's flaw for sure.
I like the Marantz models a bit better although they are both made by the same company... so although they are a bit different, the same parts mainly go into the models that are comparable.
Audessy XT32 allows setting crossovers for different sets of speakers. XT alone only has one crossover setting. XT32 is a vast iprovement in configuration and tweaking.
My 7010 blew up a year or so ago, it’s just happened again this week. I won’t be buying Marantz or Denon for my next AV amp.
I am facing a strange issue with my marantz sr5013 .from last 3days my subwoofer is vibrating there is no more kick from sub.i changed the RCA cable but no improvement .can you please help me what could be the issue with receiver .this is the 2nd receiver which is having same issue just after 1year
To test ... run in at 70% for 300 hours. It should be able to do it for years if it’s any good
my sr7013 turn itself on off constantly sometimes. I use restarting option to fix this problem temporarily . Any idea?
I found the problem. It is low voltage power outlet input
That happened to my Denon receiver as well. A little over one year old but luckily still under warranty.
Unless you are driving cheap speakers to loud levels, I wouldn't ever worry about yours blowing the way that mine did.
@@tacticalAV Klitsch are crap, but not cheap. And cheap speakers aren't the issue either. Neither is the impedence rating, as impedence fluctuates constantly into the speaker.
Waylon Smithers uses a Marantz AVR.
was it worth spending $200.00 on adding auro 3 d to your marantz avr sr 7010 I have the sr7011 and i was thinking about adding it to my system i am running a 7.2.4 system right now and was it easy to download i just hate to spend the extra money when the dolby atmos and the dts master sound great . is there that much of a difference between the three i just wanted someone else's opinion. thanks
To be honest with you if you are extremely interested in getting the best possible sound modes then yes, it is worth it, although if you are just going to use the unit for movies and music, and what sound mode it is in isn't of concern...The auro 3D uses the height channels like atmos and DTS X so if you have elevation or ceiling speakers yes, if not than no. There is no significant difference in the quality of audio coming from the receiver itself.
So the only real risk is to play music through 2 channel mode? I have polk rti4 bookshelf speakers for rear surrounds (cheap) connected directly to 6013 receiver but never listen through two channel. I should be safe?
You should be safe using those speakers even in 2 channel mode. But when powering any cheap speakers they aren't always 8 ohms as advertised which can damage both the speakers and the amp but in this case the amp shut off before sending damage to the speakers thankfully. But lesson learned that the crossovers in the speakers are actually what causes the problem and if they're cheap crossovers the amp will notice that when cranked up loud and things get scary.
@@tacticalAV It's the cranking it up loud that overheated the amp -- not the speakers, and not the corssover, blah, blah, blah. The impedence into the speakers constantly fluctuates, so the ohm-rating limited to 8 is "fashion," not fact. Denon -- owned by Marantz -- "allows" impedence 4 to 16.
Looking at this ame amplifier on my bench, looks like its an analog amplifier Not a class D PWM type, there would be large inductors on the output section if it were class D.
Great video. I like separates better for a home theater.
POTE I me too
i bought an onkyo and it was unrelable i loved the sound quality but it had bad protection like the marantz bad protection i really think only yahmaha and pioneer have great protection
This explanation has a lot of guess work in it. The writer expects a "jump" between terminals on a cheap speaker, says a Marantz SR7010 has a class D amp, says "some speakers aren't a flat 8 ohm load", (almost none are) and the crossover determines the "resistance" of a speaker? The last point. The crossover can modify the impedance of a speaker system, the main part of the impedance is determined by the drivers themselves. And it is impedance not resistance that counts. This explanation leaves lots of questions and no answers. He may be right about the Klipsch speakers being a problem with the Marantz as many of their speakers drop to 4 ohms and some a little less even though they are rated as "8 ohms compatible" I'm having no trouble, but I don't run the Marantz very hard and yes, it runs hot.
There is no such thing as an amplifier module. Each channel is driven by mosfets. What you blew was the mosfet that powers the front right channel.
I thought most A/V receivers were A/B design??
What happened?
?? don't follow what you're saying, many years ago worked in a repair shop and helped fix a lot of things but don't know much about this new receivers. they have an adjustment so they can drive 4 ohm or 8 oh m speakers, but without seeing a diagram i don't know what exactly what that does. I'd ask the dealer or the tech that repaired it for advice.
Banana plugs, convenient, safer.
You should power all three front channels in a home theater with an external amp. Not just left and right.
Rob G yup, this guy is not real bright.
You should power all the speakers from the AVR; that's why they're built to do that.
All the rest is vanity.
@@jnagarya519 not really... Most of the Soundstage of a movie is played through front. channels., they are the most active and usually much larger speakers. These larger speakers require more power. You get get by with just using the receivers amps but you'll get way better performance using an outboard Amp
Just blew b&w speakers yesterday. They were brand new.
How did this happen?
Impedance, not resistance.
We’ve decide to throw our expensive receiver in the garbage and look for in that has been torture tested. And built with some kind of quality? If there is one
Thanks for sharing!
Narrator sounds like the Joker.
Your A/V room is a cathedral of expensive.
Well, that's the ultimate goal: to spend more than anyone else. It's more about ego than sound. "I have -- you don't."
You talk like that bad guy from the Matrix
Well hi-fi marantz audio like that was not built for abuse, so sensitive, i have a diy pioneer-sa-8800 diagram audio power was rated at 8ohm but to my surprised it can drive and abused 4-ohm load - 250w for 5hrs NCS-music deep bass torture
Are you a chain smoker by any chance?
Smoker of what? Not cigarettes
Sorry, Wrong info.... :-P
What a load of drivel .
This is why i use subwoofers
uhhh. Impedance, not resistance......two different values.
Dude, a little study in the log scale is in order. Please learn the DB scale and the power scale used in audio. A change of 3 db is doubling or halving the power. A change of 6 db is doubling or 1/2ing the power. Volume controls are LOGARITHMIC as hearing is not linear. The volume does not set the power.. Let me repeat the volume knob does not set the power. The volume knob adjusts the input attenuation to the main amp and nothing more. Think of it as a multiplier. Volume at zero. Input times zero is zero. Volume at max, input at zero, output is at zero in theory. OK some hiss is non zero in reality. With full nominal input most amp receivers will clip full power at about 2/3 full volume. The extra on the volume above 2/3 setting is so more attenuation can be removed when the input source is low. It is like the input at 0.707 so you can multiply by 1.414 to obtain a 1 out.
Whether your amp blew from your speakers, a manufacturing defect, or failure of the over-current protection in the amp from a stray wire short at the speaker terminals is hard to know post failure.
I am an electronics technician by trade. I repair this stuff for a living. I am ISCET certified. Ask your repair shop to show your amp at clipping on the bench if he has time to show you this. You will find there is a peak voltage the amp can produce and not exceed. Variations of the volume knob and source program level produce the output levels. The amp with normal program material will clip well before max volume on the knob.
For the complex impedance of some speakers, ask if your repair tech can set up the scope to show the speaker voltage and current as separate traces using a current transformer or current shunt on the speaker return. From this you can see the damping force of the amp when the speaker has high reactive components in the impedance. Most class D amps have no problems with this if they are designed with a high damping factors. Analog class AB amps may tend to overheat on complex impedances due to the high current at low voltages on the transistors.
Thank you for the clarification, that was more helpful than most online literature I could find. A lot of people commenting on the video seem to disagree weather the amplifier I own the sr7010 from Marantz is a class A B or class D amplifier. I've searched the internet and I've talked to Marantz, they tell me ab, although it's obvious what I'm look at here. I have also had conflicting answers from certain techs and salesman. What can you tell me about this?
@@tacticalAV This particular model has the traditional class AB power amp section for low noise (high S/N Ratio) and flat response from 20hz to 20 KHZ with no more than 0.005% THD. Class D amps due to the PWM and use of the inductor in the low pass filter, they don't quite achieve this sound specifications. Class D amps are known for very high power levels especially at low frequencies and are often used for sub-woofers and low cost amps at the expense of sound quality. Most class D amps are unable to meet the 20-20KHZ at 0.005 THD spec with a low noise floor.
@@isettech Ok , thank you for clearing that up for me. That is undeniably a popular debate among the people watching this video. I understand the current shunt to introduce resistance into the circuit between the 2 points although does the current shunt produce more resistance than the using a transformer would? Obviously no transformer introduces no resistance but just less than the shunt.
@@tacticalAV Current shunts are generally very low resistance and only a small fraction of the load. For example a 50mV 50A shunt has a resistance of 0.001 ohms. The advantage in audio is it is linear and not subject to low frequency roll off or phase shift at low frequencies. A common misunderstanding of a current transformer is they have no insertion loss. They as a transformer have a Voltage and Current turns ratio. For example a 100:1 transformer will take 10 Amps and produce 0.01 Amps into a short on the secondary. If you use a resistor on the secondary, then the voltage drop on the primary is 1/100th of the voltage on the sense resistor. Unfortunately most current transformers are not built for 20 Hz to 20 KHZ. Most are for AC power and are flat between 50hz and 400 hz. In addition as a transformer they do introduce a small amount of inductance. For this reason instrumentation of audio is best with a current shunt and sense amplifier. This is especially true when you need to see the phase relation between current and voltage on an audio signal into a reactive speaker load. Due to signal to ratio issues at low currents, hall sensor current sensors are sometimes used in high power applications to look at harmonic currents.
I never go above 0db or 80 volume. Assuming audyssey EQ doesn't interfere and make my 0db higher then it should be... Aren't the odds really really good that I'm staying clear of clipping?
I really want to listen but he keeps saying "well"......
"digit or analog processor are".
I run my audio a lot , I’m not sure if any product can run 3,000 hours without failing, why do Americans make junk ? I had a 70s version receiver it never failed ? And it was used for decades. Why ? Because they use to make solid products
Just buy a new amp. Time to move on...😬
Lol wait until you find out the repairs are from 3rd party’s, that means they can put any junk parts they have, and the junky repair people could care less
Did not get it you just talk and talk
Let's just say you are clueless. If the problem is your speaker, it will blew up both channel. I think the problem is you were using spotify and you set the volume on spotify too loud so it blew up the right channel.
Either that or it overheated becuase of the excessive volume.
Always buy fan on top
well done!
blaming klipsch speakers haha
This guy just likes the sound of his own voice, too much verbose
In a group he likes to pontificate, while the others in the group say nothing except, "Oooh!" and "Aaaah!"
you shouldnt have to pay for it no matter what its bs when they cheap out on the amp board yamaha may not sound as good but atleast it doesnt blow screw wifi use pc or bluetueth always wifi lags on everthing
you voice to low, next make it louder.
...What?
Not all klipsch speakers are cheap
and well...
Oh well.
... and those fans placed on top will definitely interfere with the internals !
- Very bad idea.
This is why manufacturers switched to passive cooling with aluminium blocks years ago although it's much more expensive than putting 2 PC fans in the case.
The fans interfere with overheating.
dc fans
No marantz is class A/B it is pioneer that is class D it wasn't the speakers or the wire the amplifier was just a dud. I use 6 ohm speakers on a receiver rated for just 8 ohms and I have had it at volume 57 out of 60 and the receiver stays room temp and there is no distortion.
@david wilson He's not wrong about the ohmage.
I'd say marantz was laying blame on something else...Don't you think? I think you just got bad luck.
I agree, the amp should not have blown using it the way it was.
Waist of time
owwowowowoo 👑👑👑
receivers are crap now they cram all these fancy features instead of caring about the most impprtant thing amps its bc htrs are cheaply made no matter how expensive they are
you know i was reading some of your comments from other people and you get some of guys who think they are home theater gurus and probably know a little about home theater but some of these guys are real ass holes all you was doing was trying to explain your situation and what happened in the end hey ive been doing this a long time know and every situation is different plus they weren't there when problem occured and you just keep what your doing and have fun that what this all about any ways its all about trial and error
The PROBLEM is that he presents himself as something of an expert, and he expects to be BELIEVED.
Well...
And well.....
Well....