I just came to your channel to watch the Leica comparisons - and started watching this. I have the exact lens, and ran into the exact issue reassembling mine! So after being fully frustrated, getting a good night sleep - here is how I solved the reassembly of the blades... Stack them into a single area of the lens body with the upper protrusions setting the spacing. Do not worry (yet) about fitting the bottom protrusions into their holes. When all the leaves are stacked - then, take a toothpick and gently space them around the lens into their closely what their final fitting will be. Next, with each leaf, working counterclockwise, move each into their holes on the bottom, and with the other protrusion you can see, close the iris slightly, so it's no longer covering the hole for the next leaf to fall into. Once all are aligned, fit the black iris cam that engages to top protrusions. As these is a keyed part for f/stops, it will be obvious where this should be placed... I hope this helps...!
@@northstar1950 - keep me posted if you have ANY questions! Once I figured it out - it was small gentle moves of the blades, as their weight and overlap keeps them in place. Also, when you space enough to make the entire circumference of the lens - don't forget to tuck the last blade under the first - but - that will be very apparent.. PRO TIP - don't drink coffee before doing this ;) ;)
My Summitar aperture ring was too tight, I needed to disassemble the aperture ring and claen the old lube. Mine is sn 81xxxx, with 12 blades. I tried that with wide open aperture. After I laid all the blades, I carefully dropped the black top mount and use an angled metal pick to push the hinges back to the holes of the black ring. Now it works beautifully.
Looking at that, I'd attempt to fit the iris blades to the insert as you can slide the pins in, so the blades can slide under each other. Once that's done, lower the lens assembly onto it and hopefully they'll drop in the holes in the lens assembly.
I did this on a Summicron, it is not possible to build this on the black "bucket", as it is way too unstable, you need to build it inside the lens-housing and then _carefully_ lower the bucket in and make sure the pins go into the grooves in the bucket there. A trick is to insert the bucket and keep pressure on the blades, while extremely carefully push the blade-pins into the grooves where necessary. The most important part of this operation, is to note which way the aperture blades sit, as well as putting something inside, to protect the lens element as you are working. The tools you use, are toothpicks, preferably wood, one that is semi-broken into a 90 degree angle to help lift the blades from below is good to have. Fiddly as hell, but once you get the blades in the correct way, it is doable in around 30 minutes. (I struggled for 2 weeks with mine before i finally broke the code assembling it)
Sympathies with your pain here. However, i have developed a method for replacing all 12 blades. If you or anyone else is interested i will share my method, and try putting a video demonstrating the procedure.
The only lens I have attempted to fix was a Zuiko 50/1.8 with sticky iris blades. I ended up with a box of bits and a full swear jar. I am now retired and have a queue of cameras and lenses that need a little attention/swearing at. I hope you get it back together!
Lens assembly + disassembly is perhaps a specialist service carried out by experienced personnel! However, I really appreciate your enthusiasm in attempting this yourself. From my perspective it was interesting to see how the lens was made up, also how to care for the delicate components, especially the lens elements. Without the aperture blade + wide open it is still a very usable lens ,particularly when used on a mirrorless digital body for shooting video! I am interested to know if you managed to fix the lens? Have you ever considered taking a video shoot + then uploading the results to your site - perhaps even demonstrating your photo techniques? I wish you well + thank you for an informative video. Derek
I have thought another way to do it, fairly easy. First to have both front and rare lens element disassembled, only the barrel which has holes to support the aperture blade. Then glue (supper glue should be ok) each blade pin to the hole. When the first glue set, then do the next one, so on and so force. Since the blades are glued on the base, they will not move to anywhere but stay in place. When have all the blades in places, glued, put the barrel that controls the opening of the aperture. Since all blades are glued, so the aperture won’t open. But to have the black thing on top of the blades and also with each of the small pin in each of the slot of the barrel on top of the blades, the blades would stay in the position. Then drop the whole thing into a solvent that can resolve he glue. After few hours, the glue would be melted away and the aperture should be free to open and close. I will do some test first…
Somewhere on RUclips there is someone working on an Early Summicron which isn't that much different to the Summitar. They can be seen putting the blades back but they seem to do it really quickly so i's no that easy to follow. search for Mikeno62
I enjoy very much your videos. Thank you! I just bought a Leica IIIf (it is still travelling) with a Summitar lens. The same camera I had in the 70's too. I have some Russian lenses along with a Zorki 1 and Zorki 4-K. The Zorkis don't have a ring attachment so no straps for them. But the Leica have the rings. What strap would you recommend? All the best.
A good question Daniel and welcome. I have fitted most of my Leica collection with what I call 'rope' straps as that's what they look like. Like most things they came from China so we're reasonably priced. However, one of the cameras has a new slim leather one and looks more traditional. It was my original plan to swop the leather one to whatever camera I was using but I was concerned this might eventually weaken the ring that is passed through the camera lug. What is worth looking for are the type that have a protective piece of leather or fau leather that sits between the camera body and the spring clip as it helps to protect the camera from being scratched by the clip ring. Thanks for your comments.
@@langohr9613ify I really don't know and can't advise on this one as I removed the entire front group as can be seen. I would imagine they might be cemented in place, so removal would be difficult. I really don't know enough about the lens to offer any worthwhile advice.
Duane I hope you can reassemble yours, I have the grease and the tools to and we have successfully removed the front element from an f2.8.Elmar which was fairly straight forward. I might have another go with the Summitar when I have a bit of spare time.
@@northstar1950 I thought of one method might be able to solve the problem. That is to make a thing the same diameter of the ring which has holes to hold the pin of the blade. After put on 5, or 6 blade, using the circle press on the blades already in places. Such that when you put more on, those already in places won’t jumping out of the holes. Now I need to figure out how to make that circle thing precisely. I’ll let you know the result
If you haven't had any luck with it yet, would you want to sell it? I'm in xxxxxxxx if you're interested. I'm not a dealer or anything like that, I'm just looking to get started in the Leica screw thread world. Thanks, and good luck with it anyway.
Hi GP, at some point I'm going to send it to Alan Starkie of Cameraworks UK, and have it reassembled but thanks for your offer and good luck with your quest.
@@gp414 If your looking on ebay for one make sure you don't buy a fake one based on a Russian copy. They are often re engraved to look like Leitz f3.5 Elmars. They seen to come from The Ukraine. Russian lenses can be optically good but won't focus to infinity properly if used on a Leica body. I'm hoping to do vlog about vintage Leitz glass soon.
@@northstar1950 Thanks for the advice. I spotted a fake on there last night, but they said it was a fake anyway! I saw a IIIa with a lens for £299, but not sure whether to take a chance on it. Might be better to pay a bit extra on Red Dot Cameras, at least you get a 6 month warranty with them. I'll look forward to your vintage lens video, I think I've seen most of your other vids by now, they've been very informative.
I took the plunge and ordered the ebay iiia with an Elmar 50 mm 3,5 lens. It'll need cleaning and probably oiling in places, but as long as nothing is broken I don't mind doing some maintenance. Been watching shutter curtain repair videos just in case!
I just came to your channel to watch the Leica comparisons - and started watching this. I have the exact lens, and ran into the exact issue reassembling mine! So after being fully frustrated, getting a good night sleep - here is how I solved the reassembly of the blades... Stack them into a single area of the lens body with the upper protrusions setting the spacing. Do not worry (yet) about fitting the bottom protrusions into their holes. When all the leaves are stacked - then, take a toothpick and gently space them around the lens into their closely what their final fitting will be. Next, with each leaf, working counterclockwise, move each into their holes on the bottom, and with the other protrusion you can see, close the iris slightly, so it's no longer covering the hole for the next leaf to fall into. Once all are aligned, fit the black iris cam that engages to top protrusions. As these is a keyed part for f/stops, it will be obvious where this should be placed... I hope this helps...!
Thanks John for your suggestion.
@@northstar1950 - keep me posted if you have ANY questions! Once I figured it out - it was small gentle moves of the blades, as their weight and overlap keeps them in place. Also, when you space enough to make the entire circumference of the lens - don't forget to tuck the last blade under the first - but - that will be very apparent.. PRO TIP - don't drink coffee before doing this ;) ;)
@@JohnInNH535 , noted re coffee :)
@@JohnInNH535 noted regarding the coffee :)
This works for me.
My Summitar aperture ring was too tight, I needed to disassemble the aperture ring and claen the old lube. Mine is sn 81xxxx, with 12 blades. I tried that with wide open aperture. After I laid all the blades, I carefully dropped the black top mount and use an angled metal pick to push the hinges back to the holes of the black ring. Now it works beautifully.
Thanks Wayne.
Hi, could you please elaborate more on how did you do it? Thanks 🙏
Looking at that, I'd attempt to fit the iris blades to the insert as you can slide the pins in, so the blades can slide under each other. Once that's done, lower the lens assembly onto it and hopefully they'll drop in the holes in the lens assembly.
I did this on a Summicron, it is not possible to build this on the black "bucket", as it is way too unstable, you need to build it inside the lens-housing and then _carefully_ lower the bucket in and make sure the pins go into the grooves in the bucket there. A trick is to insert the bucket and keep pressure on the blades, while extremely carefully push the blade-pins into the grooves where necessary.
The most important part of this operation, is to note which way the aperture blades sit, as well as putting something inside, to protect the lens element as you are working.
The tools you use, are toothpicks, preferably wood, one that is semi-broken into a 90 degree angle to help lift the blades from below is good to have.
Fiddly as hell, but once you get the blades in the correct way, it is doable in around 30 minutes. (I struggled for 2 weeks with mine before i finally broke the code assembling it)
Sympathies with your pain here. However, i have developed a method for replacing all 12 blades. If you or anyone else is interested i will share my method, and try putting a video demonstrating the procedure.
I'm interested.
@@northstar1950 OK i will put something together.
ruclips.net/video/HTj7k5oEKeg/видео.html
This is a link to the method i used to rebuild the aperture assembly. Hope it work for you also.
The only lens I have attempted to fix was a Zuiko 50/1.8 with sticky iris blades. I ended up with a box of bits and a full swear jar. I am now retired and have a queue of cameras and lenses that need a little attention/swearing at. I hope you get it back together!
It's with a repairer at the moment.
Lens assembly + disassembly is perhaps a specialist service carried out by experienced personnel!
However, I really appreciate your enthusiasm in attempting this yourself.
From my perspective it was interesting to see how the lens was made up, also how to care for the delicate components, especially the lens elements.
Without the aperture blade + wide open it is still a very usable lens ,particularly when used on a mirrorless digital body for shooting video!
I am interested to know if you managed to fix the lens?
Have you ever considered taking a video shoot + then uploading the results to your site - perhaps even demonstrating your photo techniques?
I wish you well + thank you for an informative video.
Derek
I have thought another way to do it, fairly easy. First to have both front and rare lens element disassembled, only the barrel which has holes to support the aperture blade. Then glue (supper glue should be ok) each blade pin to the hole. When the first glue set, then do the next one, so on and so force. Since the blades are glued on the base, they will not move to anywhere but stay in place. When have all the blades in places, glued, put the barrel that controls the opening of the aperture. Since all blades are glued, so the aperture won’t open. But to have the black thing on top of the blades and also with each of the small pin in each of the slot of the barrel on top of the blades, the blades would stay in the position. Then drop the whole thing into a solvent that can resolve he glue. After few hours, the glue would be melted away and the aperture should be free to open and close. I will do some test first…
Somewhere on RUclips there is someone working on an Early Summicron which isn't that much different to the Summitar. They can be seen putting the blades back but they seem to do it really quickly so i's no that easy to follow. search for Mikeno62
Never use super glue! Or at least let is gas out for a long time before closing the lens again. As I said superglue gasses out and can fog the lenses
I enjoy very much your videos. Thank you! I just bought a Leica IIIf (it is still travelling) with a Summitar lens. The same camera I had in the 70's too. I have some Russian lenses along with a Zorki 1 and Zorki 4-K. The Zorkis don't have a ring attachment so no straps for them. But the Leica have the rings. What strap would you recommend? All the best.
A good question Daniel and welcome. I have fitted most of my Leica collection with what I call 'rope' straps as that's what they look like. Like most things they came from China so we're reasonably priced. However, one of the cameras has a new slim leather one and looks more traditional. It was my original plan to swop the leather one to whatever camera I was using but I was concerned this might eventually weaken the ring that is passed through the camera lug.
What is worth looking for are the type that have a protective piece of leather or fau leather that sits between the camera body and the spring clip as it helps to protect the camera from being scratched by the clip ring. Thanks for your comments.
I got fungus in my front element. Is there any way to open that up?
Hello, I really don't know. The front group come off, with a lot of care, but I'm sorry I don't know how anyone would remove the individual elements.
@@northstar1950Ok thanks.
There is a black ring of some sort. Do you know, if it has to be turned?
@@langohr9613ify I really don't know and can't advise on this one as I removed the entire front group as can be seen. I would imagine they might be cemented in place, so removal would be difficult. I really don't know enough about the lens to offer any worthwhile advice.
@@northstar1950 Thanks anyway for your reply ;)
Respect, I have a very rare spherical Summitar aperture. Let me know if you have seen one.
Try putting the blades back in the form a closed aperture rather than open aperture. Go for f:16 rather than f:2.
I might try that Duane, have you ever done it?
@@northstar1950 Have my summitar apart waiting on some grease and tools from Amazon.
Duane I hope you can reassemble yours, I have the grease and the tools to and we have successfully removed the front element from an f2.8.Elmar which was fairly straight forward. I might have another go with the Summitar when I have a bit of spare time.
I have done the same for my Summitar too! And can’t put the blades back
All I can say is, Welcome to the club!
@@northstar1950 I thought of one method might be able to solve the problem. That is to make a thing the same diameter of the ring which has holes to hold the pin of the blade. After put on 5, or 6 blade, using the circle press on the blades already in places. Such that when you put more on, those already in places won’t jumping out of the holes. Now I need to figure out how to make that circle thing precisely. I’ll let you know the result
I can do it😊😊😊
If you haven't had any luck with it yet, would you want to sell it? I'm in xxxxxxxx if you're interested. I'm not a dealer or anything like that, I'm just looking to get started in the Leica screw thread world. Thanks, and good luck with it anyway.
Hi GP, at some point I'm going to send it to Alan Starkie of Cameraworks UK, and have it reassembled but thanks for your offer and good luck with your quest.
@@northstar1950 Thanks for the reply, hope it gets sorted out ok for you. I'll carry on scouring the internet. Cheers.
@@gp414 If your looking on ebay for one make sure you don't buy a fake one based on a Russian copy. They are often re engraved to look like Leitz f3.5 Elmars. They seen to come from The Ukraine. Russian lenses can be optically good but won't focus to infinity properly if used on a Leica body. I'm hoping to do vlog about vintage Leitz glass soon.
@@northstar1950 Thanks for the advice. I spotted a fake on there last night, but they said it was a fake anyway! I saw a IIIa with a lens for £299, but not sure whether to take a chance on it. Might be better to pay a bit extra on Red Dot Cameras, at least you get a 6 month warranty with them. I'll look forward to your vintage lens video, I think I've seen most of your other vids by now, they've been very informative.
I took the plunge and ordered the ebay iiia with an Elmar 50 mm 3,5 lens. It'll need cleaning and probably oiling in places, but as long as nothing is broken I don't mind doing some maintenance. Been watching shutter curtain repair videos just in case!