For those of you with 2019s, there are two bolts on the air box, and they moved the fill plug closer to the silver mechanism. You have to loosen the silver mechanism by loosening the two 8mm bolts and shifting it to the right or left. Whichever way allows you to pull it up. Not going to lie, I didn't change the washer. People recommend the same when you do oil changes. I say, "if it doesn't leak, don't mess with it." Also, you can get away with quality third party fluid. I went with Lube Guard. They even have a convenient chart to help you find your fluid. I will be adding their protection additive after I run a week or two with the new fluid and do another drain and fill. Thank you for your series. You're saving people hundreds if not thousands of dollars, one video at a time.
Seriously good video! Thank you for making this. I have a ‘15 Accent and decided to change my trans fluid myself after watching this. You made it super easy!
I finally changed mine (2013 Accent). The official Hyundai shop manual says to drain and fill with 5 liters. I found that to be easier than measuring exactly what I get out, and put back in. I was nervous I would spill, and then guess at the correct amount. The manual says to add 5 liters (5.28 qt), run the engine until the fluid temp is 122-140F, then move the shifter between PRNDL (maybe +/- the gear selector), remaining at least 2 seconds in each setting. Then remove the level-check plug which is on the front of the transmission, 12" directly below the fill port. If you remove the air shroud (the driver side half of it) you can see and access that port while the vehicle is sitting on a level floor. If it has a proper fluid level, it will drizzle out the hole in a small thin stream. If it pours out, it's overfull (if nothing comes out, then needs more fluid). It will pour out (maybe 500ml) because 5 liters is more than you drain. But, the procedure seems to be "don't overthink it. Add too much, then let it pour out the level-check hole until it's a light stream. I got hung up on the fluid temp, thinking I needed a special OBD device to read it. I realized what it's really saying is that the fluid needs to be warm enough that it's flowing in the xmission before doing the PRNDL shifting. If it's not warm enough, the shifting won't do anything. It seemed that way to me because I removed the plug and the fluid didn't come out much, and it still felt room temperature. I ran the engine longer, and then it came out much more (and felt warm/hot). It seemed like the fluid I added was held somewhere else and didn't flow into the rest of the xmission until it had warmed up. My conclusion is let the engine idle until the instrument gauge (coolant temperature) is at operating temp (maybe a bar beneath that). Stop the engine, remove the plug and see if the fluid feels warm. If not, run it longer. When it feels warm, then do the PRNDL shifting. Then you can let the fluid cool (overnight if you want) and do the level check. The fluid doesn't have to be hot for the check, just the PRNDL shifting. You can finger check the temp (you know what 122-140F feels like.). I jacked up my front-driver's side, removed the drain plug, lowered. Then lifted rear driver corner, rear pass corner, front pass corner, rear pass corner again. I got more fluid out than just draining while level. After doing the level check (first drain/fill), I drove mine for 2-3 days, then did the 2nd drain/fill. The magnetic bolt had a little more material stuck to it. Very little, but there was some there (when I know I cleaned it perfectly the first time). So, that could be a reason not to do both drains at the same time. Do the level check, then drive it awhile before doing it again. There may be some material still in the system that the magnet will collect.
Dang, excellent job making this tutorial dude! I may sound like a wimp here, but I gotta get over my fear of being under the car. Friend of mine in high school's has a brother who almost died when the jack failed, luckily he got out at the exact second!
Thanks for sharing! I just did this today. 4L came out. I refilled with Valvoline Multi Vehicle ATF. You were right about pouring it back in slowly. The refill port overflowed and I spilled a bunch, which messed up my 4L measurement. You can only pour a little amount at a time then wait until you hear the air burp out before pouring again. I had to estimate a little extra to make up for what was spilled.
FWIW: The official Hyundai shop manual says to drain and add 5L, warm the engine to operating temperature (which will warm the xmission fluid). Then operate the PRNDL shifter (maybe the +/- gear paddle) remaining at least 2 seconds in each position. Then remove the level-fill plug (front of xmission, 12" directly below the fill port) while the car is sitting on level ground. If you remove the under-carriage plasitc air-sheild (the driver's side half) you can see and operate that plug while the ca's on the ground. If the fluid is proper, then a small stream should come out. If it pours out in a heavy stream, it's overfull. It will pour out if you add 5L. I think that's Hyunda's "don't overthink it" way of doing it. Add too much, get 1/2 L out. I found this a lot easier than measuring and worrying about spillage throwing off my measurement. The confusing part for me was warming the fluid. I thought it had to be warm to check the level. But, it has to be warm before doing the PRNDL shifting. It seemed like what I poured in was held in some other part of the xmission, didn't flow until it got warm/hot (122-140F). If you have the right OBD device, you can read the temperature. But, it's not that complicated. Let the engine idle until the instrument gauge (coolant) is at operating temperature (or a bar beneath). Then open the level plug, see if the fluid feels very warm/hot. If not, idle longer. What I noticed was that not much poured out until it was hot, and I'd done the PRNDL. Then it poured out heavily. (I could let it sit hours to do that level check. It didn't have to be hot for that. It has to be hot for the PRNDL shifting.). Note: If you lift all four corners of the car separately, you'll get more fluid to drain out than just draining while level.
Thank you so much for this video since my 2014 Hyundai Accent will eventually need to have a drain and refill on it. I miss not having the transmission dipstick for checking the transmission fluid.
This is Bonnie I had some questions I had asked eariler about the ca engine light on and battery light of and on when it picks up speed and my ca jurks me .I had so fa the battery is good and the alteraner is ok .
The Hyundai & Kia automatic transmission [without dipsticks] should have a fluid level port at the front of the transmissions [black plastic area normally]. Once you have done your final drain & fill, you should overfill by half a litre at that last fill, connect a scan tool that can measure transmission fluid temperature [or use a laser thermometer, but these are not as accurate], start the engine and cycle through the gears as per the video, and once the temperature is between 50c - 60c, and with the engine still running, open the overflow port and drain the excess fluid from the transmission. Once the flow slows to a trickle, you have reached the correct level. Re-secure the port plug and you are done. The overflow port plug is normally a half-turn to open and re-secure.
@@stevesmith7672 - The only issue with that is that you never know if the transmission has the correct amount of fluid in it to start with, as even factory fills can be a bit under-filled. I’m sure that in most cases a simple drop and fill with the same amount would suffice, and it would obviously be better than not changing the fluid at all, however, my post above is the correct way to do the fluid change service, and it is not actually too difficult to do it that way, as long as you can measure the temperature of the fluid.
The most accurate fill any trans will have is when it leaves the factory floor. It's not done by a human, the levels are precise, mechanically done and the same every time. No dealership or service center will match that. I dont know what company you think underfills there transmission cases but I'm sceptical.
@@stevesmith7672 - The method I posted is the proper method of changing the fluid. If you want to do a drain and fill with the exact amount that you got from the drain, then more power to you. I don’t care either way?
Hey, this is awesome! A few questions next time you do this. 1. Since there is no level measure for the ATF do you think you can use the oil dipstick before you drain and see where your level is, mark it with a sharpie and drain ATF. When you re-fill you have a set point reference. I know it might not be accurate but worth a try. 2. When you re-fill your ATF air is trapped between the hole and funnel ATF, so you have to wait for all the gurble bubble to escape. Until you can re-fill funnel. How about inserting a small clear tube in the funnel half inch pass the bottom of the funnel, in that way air escapes through the small clear tube and ATF flows through much faster. Give it a try next time, curious if it works or is just not worth it. Thanks for the video.
Marking the oil dipstick does not work I looked into it while changing my oil tonight. When the oil goes into the transmission there’s not an open cavity oil enters the transmission so you really have to pour it slowly. I know what you mean about the clear tube with the ATF flowing through faster but it really does not there’s a small passage for the floor to go down and small passage from the air to come up it doesn’t open up like the crank case of an engine it is very confined.
I wasn’t car savvy, until I found your channel. I’m tired of paying mechanics to do things to my car that as another capable human being can do and learn myself. Your videos are so clear. I’m taking on the challenge of doing this myself and so on and so forth. It really helps that you have a model just 2 years newer than mine. I’ve noticed my oil pan is around the same area. Should the process be the same for my ‘14?
Hi, thank you for your time and effort in making this video. I have a 2016 Hyundai accent. Do you know if its transmission drain/fill process is the same as this 2014?
Your welcome! I enjoy doing this! .. and yes its exactly the same, my white Accent which is a 2017 is Identical with exception that mine is manual transmission. But your 2016 A/T will be identical
Process is pretty easy but didn’t understand the putting the exact amount of new fluid… that might be the problem of getting the right amount of new fluid 🤔
FYI: Valvoline MaxLife ATF is rated SP-IV. You can find it cheap compared to the factory fluid. Much searching the net says it's truly compatible, not label hype. (Redline D6 is SP-IV too, but probably as expensive as the factory fluid. I've read that Redline can make for harder shifts. It's more of a racing/performance product.). However, if still in warranty I'd probably use the factory oil. Hyundai has a reputation for using any excuse to deny claims. If you used something other than their official fluid might not be worth the fight you could face if something goes wrong. (There's always stories of a flush causing slipping because the flush was overdue, the grit in the fluid contributed to the clutch disks grabbing.).
“ALERT” Hey, love your videos just wanted to let you know that engine mount went in wrong the part with the bolt goes on top of the control arm but it currently point straight back toward the oil pan. Turn it 90 degrees counter clockwise and should be good.
Yes that is definitely a way to do it that's how you check and make sure if your fluid level is correct. but I had checked prior to the video so I was sure that as long as I put back in exactly what I take out we would be good.
Thxs Man awesome video, greetings from Honduras, now i have a question, how do i now what type of fluid need this 2017 Accent model? ATF SP IV OR CVT FLUID? Is there a way to identify this gear box? And not screw this process😅?
Hi, please i have hyundai accent 2014 automatique, but i have only 4 rapport of transmission. So when i should change the oil, i need to do the same type of oil ? (SP4) or an other oil. Thank you
So this fluid shown in my video was the newest fluid for the Hyundai accents recommended by the dealer. and honestly id change it every 60,000 miles. and if your already passed 60K, just do it now and then start that cadence.
So I'm trying to change my transmission fluid on my hyundai accent 2015. Where can I get that transmission fluid that you are using? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Since I wanted the Manufacturers "Hyundai" brand I went to the dealership and bought it.. but fore warning the Name brand OEM stuff was like $12 a quart 😬
If my transmission is already starting to slip in my 2013 Hyundai accent will I make it worse by changing it or will it make it better? I have 135k miles on it and I don’t think it’s ever been changed
Hi, I have a 2014 i30 with 150,000km. It's never had a ATF before. I'm worried that I've left it too long and could cause damage if I change it now. Do you think 150k is too late? Note I'm talking KM, no Miles. Thanks.
so it would be good to check your fluid condition for sure... but no that's when I did this one was about 94K Miles about the same as 150K Km.... if you are hesitant you'd still be safe doing only one drain and fill which would be almost a 50% fluid change.
@@EverythingAvron I ended up changing the fluid. When i cracked open the bolt and saw the dirty black oil come out i was instantly glad that i was getting it out. The drain bolt was thickly coated in metal sludge, but no big pieces. I dumped and filled 4 litres, which was exactly 1 bottle of Penrite ATF LV fluid. I feel like i cought it just in time before it was too late. Gear changes are very smooth. The only thing to mention is it seems to change gear at different speeds now (only slightly) but I'm not sure if this is good or bad. Overall I'm glad i did it but i will stick with only the one change for now.
Could be... If your quick, you can loosen the bolt all the way until it is about to fall out and quickly pull it out, plug the hole with your finger then have someone trow the gasket on the bolt and you quickly remove your finger and bolt it back. haha ive done that before
It doesn't mention in the manual when to change the automatic transmission fluid. I have 65,000. Should I have it changed? It says replace after 60,000 if you drive in severe conditions or at least I don't think I do. I just do normal suburban driving. 17 miles to work on 45 mph roads with a few stops in the Chicago area. Can it hurt to have it changed now?
You can sample the fluid in the transmission through the level port. Get a little on a q-tip or white paper towell and look at the color. If it's more brown than red, then a change would be wise.
If all the fluid doesn’t come out how can you check the levels ? I know you mentioned refilling bottles as you empty with drain pan. Do these cars have a trans fluid dipstick?
No problems what so ever! I believe we caught this guy just in time where it was not harmful to perform a full flush. It drives quick and nimble and shifts smooth and firmly👌
Hey can I ask you a question do you think doing a drain and fill on 09 Hyundai Accent is okay it’s got 104,000 miles on it I dont know if people who owned it before me ever have
Nice video bro! I got a question I just bought a 09 Hyundai Accent and it’s got 104,000 miles on it..I’m wanting to do a drain and fill on it like this video u made but I’m a little concerned if this might be to many miles any thoughts or experience on this.. I don’t want my transmission to start slipping lol
@@GDavis49 thanks I did it and thank god no problems I did the first one then waited a week just to see how my car would react did fine so I did two more and no problems actually feels a lot smoother
4:48 What year is your car? I have a 2019 Accent and that metal structure just to your right is just above the fill port plastic nut. There's no room to remove it. 😢
definitely inspect your oil to see if it has a shiny appearance to it ( which would be metal particulate) if it doesn't you'd be fine doing a flush. But if you do see it, I would stick with only one drain and fill which would only get about 50% replaced
I believe it was around 7.6 quarts.. But you can never get it all out at once because its inside the torque converter. which is why you will need to do multiple drain and fills to get a big percentage of it changed. just make sure your car is at room temperature and then measure how much drains out then. fill it back but with the same amount of new fluid. Then drive around for about a week, then do another drain and fill and then you will have swapped more than 75% of it which is plenty
I just wanna ask something bro Does the transmission have a filter and how can i replace it At what mileage do u need to change the transmission fluid?
Honestly not sure if these Accents have a transmission filter. Ill have to do some research myself to find out. And personally I change mine every 40K to 60K miles depending upon which vehicle and how Im driving it.
The filters in the Hyundai transmissions are more of a screen than an actually filter. It should be a lifetime item. To reach the filter you have to pull the transmission and take it apart. Just make sure you have regular atf changes and you should be fine. I saw one guy on the Hyundai forums had 400,000 miles on his original 2012 Accent transmission with only regular atf changes.
These Accents don't have a dip stick unfortunately. Theres a bolt on the side of the transmission that you would open when its fully warmed and fill until it runs out. But again that's why I made sure my drained fluid temperature and my replacement fluid temps were the same so I could simply replace the measured amount I removed.
I bought my first car! Hyundai accent my years 2014 AND I’ve beeen binge watching your videos!!! They’re SUPER helpful THANKU😭🤍
For those of you with 2019s, there are two bolts on the air box, and they moved the fill plug closer to the silver mechanism. You have to loosen the silver mechanism by loosening the two 8mm bolts and shifting it to the right or left. Whichever way allows you to pull it up. Not going to lie, I didn't change the washer. People recommend the same when you do oil changes. I say, "if it doesn't leak, don't mess with it." Also, you can get away with quality third party fluid. I went with Lube Guard. They even have a convenient chart to help you find your fluid. I will be adding their protection additive after I run a week or two with the new fluid and do another drain and fill.
Thank you for your series. You're saving people hundreds if not thousands of dollars, one video at a time.
Seriously good video! Thank you for making this. I have a ‘15 Accent and decided to change my trans fluid myself after watching this. You made it super easy!
I’m doing mine on Friday
Wish me luck
I finally changed mine (2013 Accent). The official Hyundai shop manual says to drain and fill with 5 liters. I found that to be easier than measuring exactly what I get out, and put back in. I was nervous I would spill, and then guess at the correct amount. The manual says to add 5 liters (5.28 qt), run the engine until the fluid temp is 122-140F, then move the shifter between PRNDL (maybe +/- the gear selector), remaining at least 2 seconds in each setting. Then remove the level-check plug which is on the front of the transmission, 12" directly below the fill port. If you remove the air shroud (the driver side half of it) you can see and access that port while the vehicle is sitting on a level floor. If it has a proper fluid level, it will drizzle out the hole in a small thin stream. If it pours out, it's overfull (if nothing comes out, then needs more fluid). It will pour out (maybe 500ml) because 5 liters is more than you drain. But, the procedure seems to be "don't overthink it. Add too much, then let it pour out the level-check hole until it's a light stream.
I got hung up on the fluid temp, thinking I needed a special OBD device to read it. I realized what it's really saying is that the fluid needs to be warm enough that it's flowing in the xmission before doing the PRNDL shifting. If it's not warm enough, the shifting won't do anything. It seemed that way to me because I removed the plug and the fluid didn't come out much, and it still felt room temperature. I ran the engine longer, and then it came out much more (and felt warm/hot). It seemed like the fluid I added was held somewhere else and didn't flow into the rest of the xmission until it had warmed up. My conclusion is let the engine idle until the instrument gauge (coolant temperature) is at operating temp (maybe a bar beneath that). Stop the engine, remove the plug and see if the fluid feels warm. If not, run it longer. When it feels warm, then do the PRNDL shifting. Then you can let the fluid cool (overnight if you want) and do the level check. The fluid doesn't have to be hot for the check, just the PRNDL shifting. You can finger check the temp (you know what 122-140F feels like.).
I jacked up my front-driver's side, removed the drain plug, lowered. Then lifted rear driver corner, rear pass corner, front pass corner, rear pass corner again. I got more fluid out than just draining while level. After doing the level check (first drain/fill), I drove mine for 2-3 days, then did the 2nd drain/fill. The magnetic bolt had a little more material stuck to it. Very little, but there was some there (when I know I cleaned it perfectly the first time). So, that could be a reason not to do both drains at the same time. Do the level check, then drive it awhile before doing it again. There may be some material still in the system that the magnet will collect.
Dang, excellent job making this tutorial dude! I may sound like a wimp here, but I gotta get over my fear of being under the car. Friend of mine in high school's has a brother who almost died when the jack failed, luckily he got out at the exact second!
Thanks for sharing! I just did this today. 4L came out. I refilled with Valvoline Multi Vehicle ATF. You were right about pouring it back in slowly. The refill port overflowed and I spilled a bunch, which messed up my 4L measurement. You can only pour a little amount at a time then wait until you hear the air burp out before pouring again. I had to estimate a little extra to make up for what was spilled.
FWIW: The official Hyundai shop manual says to drain and add 5L, warm the engine to operating temperature (which will warm the xmission fluid). Then operate the PRNDL shifter (maybe the +/- gear paddle) remaining at least 2 seconds in each position. Then remove the level-fill plug (front of xmission, 12" directly below the fill port) while the car is sitting on level ground. If you remove the under-carriage plasitc air-sheild (the driver's side half) you can see and operate that plug while the ca's on the ground. If the fluid is proper, then a small stream should come out. If it pours out in a heavy stream, it's overfull. It will pour out if you add 5L. I think that's Hyunda's "don't overthink it" way of doing it. Add too much, get 1/2 L out. I found this a lot easier than measuring and worrying about spillage throwing off my measurement.
The confusing part for me was warming the fluid. I thought it had to be warm to check the level. But, it has to be warm before doing the PRNDL shifting. It seemed like what I poured in was held in some other part of the xmission, didn't flow until it got warm/hot (122-140F). If you have the right OBD device, you can read the temperature. But, it's not that complicated. Let the engine idle until the instrument gauge (coolant) is at operating temperature (or a bar beneath). Then open the level plug, see if the fluid feels very warm/hot. If not, idle longer. What I noticed was that not much poured out until it was hot, and I'd done the PRNDL. Then it poured out heavily. (I could let it sit hours to do that level check. It didn't have to be hot for that. It has to be hot for the PRNDL shifting.). Note: If you lift all four corners of the car separately, you'll get more fluid to drain out than just draining while level.
Thank you so much for this video since my 2014 Hyundai Accent will eventually need to have a drain and refill on it. I miss not having the transmission dipstick for checking the transmission fluid.
your very welcome! glad it helped or will help!
Actually, this channel was meant for people like me, big up Avron 👌👌👌
Much appreciated glad it helps!.. Many more vids to come!
This is Bonnie I had some questions I had asked eariler about the ca engine light on and battery light of and on when it picks up speed and my ca jurks me .I had so fa the battery is good and the alteraner is ok .
I had it checked
Hello my name is Bonnie I had talked too you earlier.
I plan on doing this for my girlfriend's accent hatchback. Just did a flush on my Mitsubishi mirage. Great video, thank you for posting this!
The Hyundai & Kia automatic transmission [without dipsticks] should have a fluid level port at the front of the transmissions [black plastic area normally]. Once you have done your final drain & fill, you should overfill by half a litre at that last fill, connect a scan tool that can measure transmission fluid temperature [or use a laser thermometer, but these are not as accurate], start the engine and cycle through the gears as per the video, and once the temperature is between 50c - 60c, and with the engine still running, open the overflow port and drain the excess fluid from the transmission. Once the flow slows to a trickle, you have reached the correct level. Re-secure the port plug and you are done. The overflow port plug is normally a half-turn to open and re-secure.
very detailed.. and yes that's a more thorough way to do it
Wow, how about put the same amount in at the same temp what you took out. Jessuss
@@stevesmith7672 - The only issue with that is that you never know if the transmission has the correct amount of fluid in it to start with, as even factory fills can be a bit under-filled. I’m sure that in most cases a simple drop and fill with the same amount would suffice, and it would obviously be better than not changing the fluid at all, however, my post above is the correct way to do the fluid change service, and it is not actually too difficult to do it that way, as long as you can measure the temperature of the fluid.
The most accurate fill any trans will have is when it leaves the factory floor. It's not done by a human, the levels are precise, mechanically done and the same every time. No dealership or service center will match that. I dont know what company you think underfills there transmission cases but I'm sceptical.
@@stevesmith7672 - The method I posted is the proper method of changing the fluid. If you want to do a drain and fill with the exact amount that you got from the drain, then more power to you. I don’t care either way?
I just went to Hyundai transmission fluid is now ,22 dollar's a quart. Thanks for video
Open before you drain......sound advice👍👍
Truth!
@EverythingAvron Thank you so much for the video you saved me over 200 bucks.
Hey, this is awesome!
A few questions next time you do this.
1. Since there is no level measure for the ATF do you think you can use the oil dipstick before you drain and see where your level is, mark it with a sharpie and drain ATF. When you re-fill you have a set point reference. I know it might not be accurate but worth a try.
2. When you re-fill your ATF air is trapped between the hole and funnel ATF, so you have to wait for all the gurble bubble to escape. Until you can re-fill funnel. How about inserting a small clear tube in the funnel half inch pass the bottom of the funnel, in that way air escapes through the small clear tube and ATF flows through much faster.
Give it a try next time, curious if it works or is just not worth it.
Thanks for the video.
Marking the oil dipstick does not work I looked into it while changing my oil tonight. When the oil goes into the transmission there’s not an open cavity oil enters the transmission so you really have to pour it slowly. I know what you mean about the clear tube with the ATF flowing through faster but it really does not there’s a small passage for the floor to go down and small passage from the air to come up it doesn’t open up like the crank case of an engine it is very confined.
Thanks! One of the clearest video I saw online how to change transmission fluid.
You're welcome! glad it helped!
I wasn’t car savvy, until I found your channel. I’m tired of paying mechanics to do things to my car that as another capable human being can do and learn myself. Your videos are so clear. I’m taking on the challenge of doing this myself and so on and so forth. It really helps that you have a model just 2 years newer than mine. I’ve noticed my oil pan is around the same area. Should the process be the same for my ‘14?
Hi, thank you for your time and effort in making this video. I have a 2016 Hyundai accent. Do you know if its transmission drain/fill process is the same as this 2014?
Your welcome! I enjoy doing this! .. and yes its exactly the same, my white Accent which is a 2017 is Identical with exception that mine is manual transmission. But your 2016 A/T will be identical
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make sure everything is super clear. Awesome detail. You helped a ton!
Appreciate the compliment! And your welcome!
Well done neighbor. Thanks
Mucha appreciated!
Great video Avron! You did a great job explaining each step.
Thank you for making this video. I have a 2016 Hyundai accent.
I wondering how to do this correctly.
Keep up the great work 👍
Process is pretty easy but didn’t understand the putting the exact amount of new fluid… that might be the problem of getting the right amount of new fluid 🤔
Could you provide a part number for the drain plug washer please.
The best part of this video was at 1:16 🤣 For some reason I kept playing it back several times because it makes me laugh.
Great video bro!. What happened with changing the filter?
Great job. You made it look so easy. Thanks
Great video. Did you make a video on how to clean the engine?
tQ for the video it help me alot...
I had problem with my accent transmission recently...
Hope it help other people watching this video... : |>
Glad it helped!!
Hi. How do I check the atf level?
Great video, man! Thanks!
FYI: Valvoline MaxLife ATF is rated SP-IV. You can find it cheap compared to the factory fluid. Much searching the net says it's truly compatible, not label hype. (Redline D6 is SP-IV too, but probably as expensive as the factory fluid. I've read that Redline can make for harder shifts. It's more of a racing/performance product.).
However, if still in warranty I'd probably use the factory oil. Hyundai has a reputation for using any excuse to deny claims. If you used something other than their official fluid might not be worth the fight you could face if something goes wrong. (There's always stories of a flush causing slipping because the flush was overdue, the grit in the fluid contributed to the clutch disks grabbing.).
Excellent video, getting ready to do mine.
Glad it helped! stay tuned we'll be tacking more on that bad boy!
Hey. Did you do it?? How did it go for you??
Good video. Done properly. Thanks
Thanks and your welcome!
“ALERT”
Hey, love your videos just wanted to let you know that engine mount went in wrong the part with the bolt goes on top of the control arm but it currently point straight back toward the oil pan. Turn it 90 degrees counter clockwise and should be good.
Noted 👍
you should have removed the cap from the front of the trans as described in the service manual and then fill, when it starts to dribble out its full
Yes that is definitely a way to do it that's how you check and make sure if your fluid level is correct. but I had checked prior to the video so I was sure that as long as I put back in exactly what I take out we would be good.
ATF. Can use Mannol OEM Multivehicle
Thanks Question what type of Automativ Trassmission Fluid you use in a 2016 Hiunday Accent thanks
It would be the same fluid for that year too, that SP4-M was the "newest" overall version when I bought it
thanks for the video. you are the man 👍
Thxs Man awesome video, greetings from Honduras, now i have a question, how do i now what type of fluid need this 2017 Accent model? ATF SP IV OR CVT FLUID? Is there a way to identify this gear box? And not screw this process😅?
Good and informative video👍
why when i went for an oil change they put silicone paste around the edges of the plate covering the transmission drain?
Was the fluid red or clear?
Thanks 🙏🏾
your welcome!
From philippines sir good day..can i ask what ATF can we buy for hyundai accent 2016..and how many liters should be used..thank you
I was told that that SP4-M was the up today fluid for the time, and it worked on a wide range of Hyundai models with Automatic transmissions
You replace the filter?
No I did not replace the filter here. I only did a fluid change. Maybe next time ill drop the pan a check if there is a serviceable filter there.
how do you check the transmission fluid to see if it’s full
Hi, please i have hyundai accent 2014 automatique, but i have only 4 rapport of transmission. So when i should change the oil, i need to do the same type of oil ? (SP4) or an other oil.
Thank you
So this fluid shown in my video was the newest fluid for the Hyundai accents recommended by the dealer. and honestly id change it every 60,000 miles. and if your already passed 60K, just do it now and then start that cadence.
So I'm trying to change my transmission fluid on my hyundai accent 2015. Where can I get that transmission fluid that you are using? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
use valvoline max life atf, $18/gallon at walmart
Since I wanted the Manufacturers "Hyundai" brand I went to the dealership and bought it.. but fore warning the Name brand OEM stuff was like $12 a quart 😬
If my transmission is already starting to slip in my 2013 Hyundai accent will I make it worse by changing it or will it make it better? I have 135k miles on it and I don’t think it’s ever been changed
Yike my accent got 152k and I haven't done this. Wow. Nor has a mechanic suggested I do this shit
you probably still can.. but I'd probably do only a half flush
what happen after 100 thousand milles?
Thanks bro👍
Hi, I have a 2014 i30 with 150,000km. It's never had a ATF before. I'm worried that I've left it too long and could cause damage if I change it now. Do you think 150k is too late? Note I'm talking KM, no Miles. Thanks.
so it would be good to check your fluid condition for sure... but no that's when I did this one was about 94K Miles about the same as 150K Km.... if you are hesitant you'd still be safe doing only one drain and fill which would be almost a 50% fluid change.
@@EverythingAvron I ended up changing the fluid. When i cracked open the bolt and saw the dirty black oil come out i was instantly glad that i was getting it out. The drain bolt was thickly coated in metal sludge, but no big pieces. I dumped and filled 4 litres, which was exactly 1 bottle of Penrite ATF LV fluid. I feel like i cought it just in time before it was too late. Gear changes are very smooth. The only thing to mention is it seems to change gear at different speeds now (only slightly) but I'm not sure if this is good or bad. Overall I'm glad i did it but i will stick with only the one change for now.
is it going to be a problem if i forgot to put the gasket back on the drain bolt?
Could be... If your quick, you can loosen the bolt all the way until it is about to fall out and quickly pull it out, plug the hole with your finger then have someone trow the gasket on the bolt and you quickly remove your finger and bolt it back. haha ive done that before
And how don you change the filter??
Is it a 6-speed AT or a 4-Speed one?
Thanks
It doesn't mention in the manual when to change the automatic transmission fluid. I have 65,000. Should I have it changed? It says replace after 60,000 if you drive in severe conditions or at least I don't think I do. I just do normal suburban driving. 17 miles to work on 45 mph roads with a few stops in the Chicago area.
Can it hurt to have it changed now?
yea! you should be good! keep in mind I change this ones at over 90,000 miles and its still good.
You can sample the fluid in the transmission through the level port. Get a little on a q-tip or white paper towell and look at the color. If it's more brown than red, then a change would be wise.
Do you need that ATF or can I get a different brand from auto zone that’s says it will fit ?
If all the fluid doesn’t come out how can you check the levels ? I know you mentioned refilling bottles as you empty with drain pan. Do these cars have a trans fluid dipstick?
Great vid, well done. subbed
Awesome, thank you!
Hows the car driving now?
No problems what so ever! I believe we caught this guy just in time where it was not harmful to perform a full flush. It drives quick and nimble and shifts smooth and firmly👌
How many miles did you have on it? I got a 2012 manual. And they always tell me it doesn’t need it. But I don’t believe that.
I did not change the transmission oil, it reached 200,000, should I change it gradually or all of it?
Where can I get the tools from?
In what instances would you want to flush it?
Do you know what size that casket is
not sure what you mean?
Hey can I ask you a question do you think doing a drain and fill on 09 Hyundai Accent is okay it’s got 104,000 miles on it I dont know if people who owned it before me ever have
Nice video bro! I got a question I just bought a 09 Hyundai Accent and it’s got 104,000 miles on it..I’m wanting to do a drain and fill on it like this video u made but I’m a little concerned if this might be to many miles any thoughts or experience on this.. I don’t want my transmission to start slipping lol
Changed mine at 100,000 miles on a 2013 Accent with no issues.
@@GDavis49 thanks I did it and thank god no problems I did the first one then waited a week just to see how my car would react did fine so I did two more and no problems actually feels a lot smoother
@@GDavis49did you do a flush as well or just drain/fill I have a 2016 accent with 92,000 miles
@@cristianmares3598 i did a flush, vehicle has 135,000 miles on it now
4:48 What year is your car? I have a 2019 Accent and that metal structure just to your right is just above the fill port plastic nut. There's no room to remove it. 😢
Hello I am on my Owen and need some answers
what questions you got?
My car has 107k miles on it, is it too late to change the ATF fluid?
definitely inspect your oil to see if it has a shiny appearance to it ( which would be metal particulate) if it doesn't you'd be fine doing a flush. But if you do see it, I would stick with only one drain and fill which would only get about 50% replaced
Trade it in r sell it
How many quarts for accent AT Gas?
I believe it was around 7.6 quarts.. But you can never get it all out at once because its inside the torque converter. which is why you will need to do multiple drain and fills to get a big percentage of it changed. just make sure your car is at room temperature and then measure how much drains out then. fill it back but with the same amount of new fluid. Then drive around for about a week, then do another drain and fill and then you will have swapped more than 75% of it which is plenty
Is the crush gasket/washer the same as the one used for oil? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Same
9
I just wanna ask something bro
Does the transmission have a filter and how can i replace it
At what mileage do u need to change the transmission fluid?
Honestly not sure if these Accents have a transmission filter. Ill have to do some research myself to find out. And personally I change mine every 40K to 60K miles depending upon which vehicle and how Im driving it.
The filters in the Hyundai transmissions are more of a screen than an actually filter. It should be a lifetime item. To reach the filter you have to pull the transmission and take it apart. Just make sure you have regular atf changes and you should be fine. I saw one guy on the Hyundai forums had 400,000 miles on his original 2012 Accent transmission with only regular atf changes.
U a mechanical person. So, wht happened. To dip stick
These Accents don't have a dip stick unfortunately. Theres a bolt on the side of the transmission that you would open when its fully warmed and fill until it runs out. But again that's why I made sure my drained fluid temperature and my replacement fluid temps were the same so I could simply replace the measured amount I removed.
Hey dude what the hell with your hand its really annoying stop that
haha habit I guess... 😂
How do I do this process if my car won't turn on due to being stuck in Drive?