Good video thank you. People should know that draining the transmission only gets out about half of the fluid that is actually in there. The transmission assembly holds almost 8 liters, about 4 liters came out when I drained mine, the torque converter alone holds quite a lot of fluid. With the extra effort outlined here you can replace all of the fluid. The transmission oil cooler is attached to the front of the transmission just above the transmission oil level check plug. Remove the return oil line identified with red paint that goes up to the transmission. It was on the upper right hand side of my cooler. Attach some 3/8 tubing where the rubber oil line came off, put the tubing into an empty container. I used some empty 2 liter pop bottles so that I could quickly judge how much fluid was coming out. I bought 10 L of the maxlife fluid. Drain the old fluid as per this video and replace the oil plug, replace the oil inspection plug. Put at least 4 L of new fluid in the transmission, don't exceed 5 L. Have an assistant start the engine and slowly move the gear selector through the gear positions as you watch the fluid coming out. Turn off the engine when 2 liters come out, regardless of what gear the transmission might be in. Add two more liters of new fluid to the transmission and do this again. You have now pumped out the old fluid from the torque converter and valve body. Please note that about a cup of old fluid will come out of the removed rubber oil line as well so be prepared to catch it too. My Santa Fe pumped out about a liter every 6 seconds. Top up the fluid as per this video. Finish up by driving for about 10 minutes and then checking the oil level, note that the oil level must be checked with the engine running. Ten minutes of driving will get the transmission hot enough, don't worry about that. You should have your assistant read these instructions as well before you start so that they know what is happening and are ready.
Its just funny to me how the transmission fluid temp is stressed as super important on these new cars because it effects the level and you just just gotta make SURE the fluid is between 137.843 and 139.367 degrees. but then the actual method of checking the level itself is this subjective as hell procedure where you're left judging a stream of fluid while its actively leaking out of the transmission lol
At Nissan I just check if the man is too warm to touch comfortably. I'm sure you're supposed to use a scanner but my dealership doesn't have reliable scanners.
Or you can drain the transmission putting the old fluid into a measured container, get an accurate reading of what came out and put the exact amount back in. It won't hurt a thing.
That is a breather plug. That's if anything gets down the breather hose and then into dropping it straight into the transmission pan. If you look at the back of the transmission on the top at the back you'll see a 24 mm fill point bolt. Take that off. Use a hook and hose and pump and you can pump it straight into the air. That is a semi-blind hole you're trying to put it through and if you took off the transmission cover you would see exactly what I meant. That is a breather hole. You've also got to line up the whole properly on that piece. You've just taken out so it breathes properly. It's 24 mm bolt the same as the drain plug but on the top at the back it's 10 times easier for filling up than what you do
@@justinsalter9059 Great information -- I am wanting to change the trans fluid on my 2019 Elantra SE with the 6 speed automatic that has 55K original miles and as far as I know the fluid has not been changed, but ... OK so there is ACTUALLY TWO (2) Fill plugs that I see people using! One is under the Air Box (after removal) and this plastic plug is actually the "VENT" for the transmission CORRECT? The factory "FILL HOLE" is towards the rear and a metal 24MM plug like the 24MM metal drain plug -- CORRECT? Does the Manufacturer (or dealer) use the VENT PLUG or the METAL FILL PLUG Location to add fluid? That is my question!
After watching a few videos, I've come to the conclusion that you're the only guy doing it right. Most of the guys check the level with the car off, I think they'll end up with low fluid. I saw an excerpt from a factory service manual, it wasn't emphasized that the car should be running, but if you follow the steps as they were written it never said turn the car off. Nice job on the video. Thanks for posting.
Wow this is the only video on RUclips. That has hit a homerun. With the " Correct" fluid information that's needed for the 8- speed automatic transmission fluid that matches the Telluride maintenance book. Excellent information. We Thank you for this information you have displayed for us. 🙏
I did this job today at home, 5th time I've done it. Add new fluid with car off, and side inspection port open. You can pour in three quarts without any gurgling. Then start the car and get it up to operating temperature for the last bit. Usually 3.5qts, give or take.
Being a DIY guy for my family’s cars, I watch up to a dozen and more videos on the job I’m going to do. Because of that, I can tell a guy that does things with care and you are one of those types. Admitting tour mistakes that we all make saves others from making the same mistakes. I am not as picky on having to use the dealer brand as long as you are using a reputable brand. Good job. I subscribed.
Girlfriends 2018 Elantra is at 100k miles and I’m thinking of getting this done next… the rear drums on it were a lot easier than I thought and I wanna prove her wrong by keeping it on the road mechanic free for another 100k at least… thing is less rusty than my 4 year old Tiguan… Definitely better built than all the VW/Audis I’ve been DIYing for the past 20+ years
I literally have done two of the three changes to complete my flush and each time I kept making a mess because of the bubbling…pulling the line is such a simple thing…your video is about to make my third/ final change so much easier. 🙏🏽
This is an excellent video, thanks for sharing! One suggestion that would help us DIYers in future is if you run your scan tool until you reach the minimum temp (122F), then immediately do a measurement with an IR thermometer. Then we will all learn the difference (if any), plus the best area/s on the trans to take the measurement. It's a pretty big range and I feel the IR thermometer method should be accurate enough, especially if you can prove that it does. Because you have the scan tool, we don't. Cheers.
Everybody makes fun of Hyundais. I'm a long time auto ASe tech used to work in GM dealers. I've had three so far and not one issue at all with any of them. As long as you do the maintenance and don't beat on them they are really good vehicles. My 2014 Tuscon has 165,000 and doesn't burn any oil (it had the new engine recall at 50k at no cost to me) , gets 35mpg (rated for 21-28), shifts perfectly and runs like new. I take care of it by keeping engine bay clean, use synthetic oils and think it's gonna last well over 200k. I also have an Elantra Gt with 50k and same thing not one issue. Maintenance is cheaper than repairs remember that!
I have a 2018 Sonata with the 2.4 that I purchased new. I changed my ATF fluid yesterday (30,000 miles) after driving the car to warm up the oil. I carefully measured the fluid after draining. 3.7 quarts came out, so I put 3.7 back in.
Kirk, how did your fluid look at 30,000 miles? I have a 2020 Sorento 2.4 with 6 speed auto, and we like it a ton, so I want to change the fluids myself. It has 18,000 miles on it and was thinking this summer on the ATF fluid change. Thank you sir!
@@pmtips4482 yes it’s usually still red at 60k. A darker red than new fluid but still red non the less. If your curious just pull the inspection plate on the front of the valve body cover with the engine running and stick your pinky in there
I work at a Kia dealer service department and I did this service yesterday on my 2021 Hyundai Sonata Limited 1.6 T with an 8-speed automatic transmission following the service information manual on my service laptop.
Yours is the most methodical video on changing the transmission fluid and like a lot of these sealed transmissions it needs to be checked at a specific temperature which you emphasize so the fluid is the correct level at operating temp. IMHO the difference between a "just enough knowledge to be dangerous" job and one that is the same level as an experienced tech. I was not confident to do my 2013 Sportage until I saw this video. It is our much loved family treasure and I didnt want to be one of the ignorant butchers that missed important details. I will be choosing a high quality fluid that is a Penrite SP 4 low viscosity ATF. It seems that a lot of synthetic fluids are converging on similar specs rather than the old 50 different mineral trans fluids. [Edit] Just done the fluid change on My 2013 Diesel Sportage using Penrite LV ATF which includes SP4 and SP4-M. Hardest part was shimmying under to get the under tray off. A four post hoist for christmas please! Fluid was dirty enough ( A bit dirtier than your example) to vindicate the change at 140k kilometres which is recommended for severe duty. My car has had it pretty easy with a lot of motorway and country trips but I still reckon 9 years is long enough even with long life fluids. That filler was a challenge as I did not take off the oil cooler hose as you suggested. Definitely needs to be slow to stop it burping out. I did see one guy filling with a drum pump into the level checking hole. Seemed to work well. Next time will be a long neck funnel! I removed the airbox which was one bolt on the LHS and releasing the air hose clamp and the sensor on the front. The snorkel was easy with the little press button connectors just needing a push in the center to release and then push the pin out the top to put back in and pop it back in to the way you found it. I didn't have a temp gauge to check the level but I did drive it for a while so it would be close enough to normal temp. I didn't think it was shifting bad before but it does seem to be a bit smoother afterwards. Maybe the newer synthetic fluids are better than the OEM fluids. Very satisfying! Thank you.
Appreciate the kind words, and I’m glad my video gave you the confidence to do this job! Let us know how you make out! As long as the fluid you choose meets or exceeds OEM specs you’ll be fine
Instead of removing the trans cooling line, I find it easier just to remove the plug for the fluid level check before filling. That allows the trans to "breathe" when filling.
I found that it started running out well before there was enough in there doing it this way, only about 3 or so liters when it needed to be about 4.5 to 5 litres. so I had to top it up a couple of times with attendant removal of access parts. Next time I will use a long funnel and do it slow to put about 5 liters in so it only needs one level check. Experience gained for next time! Still worth it for the satisfaction of knowing you are looking after longevity and smooth shifting enjoyment.
A.R., that way worked on my 2012 Sonata, which I've done 3-4 times. But not on the 2017, it gurgled all over and was a mess. I have to do my 2019 now, so I may have to pull that cooler line.
I did this by using a transfer pump and pumping in through the overfill drain. Once I got fluid back I stopped. Warmed the car up and checked again. I stopped at a steady trickle which might be slightly less than you did.
Contrary to what he said, I’d recommend replacing the aluminum crush washer and tighten the bolt with a torque wrench to the spec called for. If not, The likelihood of a slow leak is increased, and will create a lot more work to correct in the future. Just get a new washer. They’re only like a buck or two. Same with engine oil plug.
My freakin god thank you i legit couldn't figure out how to use that tool every video shows it in reverse and that wasn't working for me thank you so much
Spill, measure, fill. If you don't have any leaks, it doesn't just disappear. Better for the fluid level to be a little off than to not change the fluid. If you can change your oil, you can service your transmission. No need for a scan tool if you are careful.
Great video. I’m going to give this a go on my daughter’s 2018 Santa Fe. I can imagine the dealer will charge a few hundred for this (bought a scan tool instead). Question….when you open the plug to let the fluid “trickle out” before closing…..seems this is really subjective. When you closed it, to me it didn’t seem like a steady stream. That’s the only part of this job that concerns me. When you drain the fluid, does a lot remain inside? Asking Becusee I’m going to check the fluid capacity and then keep an eye on how much I add before I pop that plug to let some drain. If the capacity is 5 quarts and I added 5 then I’d be really nervous to let a lot spill out while checking it. Unless the engine keeps a bunch of the old fluid after you drain it. Thanks ALSO: since Hyundai doesn’t have a dipstick (unreal why not)…this is a totally different process from my other car. You can’t cycle through the gears on the Hyundai and get the fluid moving doing this process before checking the level. I’m trusting in the factory service process here lol.
This is one of the better videos, however... That final over-flow/inspection port stream was still pushing out quite a bit of fluid. And everyone is going to be different/subjective on when to call it. 5-10 seconds early or late seems like it could easily be 1/2 quart. There has to be a better way of dialing that in properly. What it you were to shut the engine off, and let it dribble out until it is actually just drips/drabs? Then at that point you could add 1/4 - 1/2 qt and be closer to spot on? Wonder if there is a Service Manual that explains this, as it seems rather critical.
I did not understand what he meant by a "steady flow" before putting the plastic cap back on. Wouldn't have been better if he put only 4 qts of fluid instead of 5? Then when you opened the checking cap, you would see no oil coming out. Then you add the 5th quart slowly until it starts to come out? Answers 🙏 please...thanks
This video got me thinking. If you're supposed to get it to within a range of the temperature, then plug the inspection port back up when it's a slow trickle, anyone ever re-inspect the level after they let it cool off ? I know fluid expands when it's hot, but that by that much. My hunch is that when the fluid is back to room temperature, it will be at the bottom of the inspection port, very similar to how axles and past transmissions were 'full' when the fluid started coming out of the service port. If my theory is correct, and can be verified, future fluid changes can all be done 100% from the bottom. Drain as usual, and then full thru the 'inspection' port until it starts oozing out. Start engine, cycle thru the gears, and then just top off again thru the inspection port. Should make the whole process less than 10 minutes (minus the time required to remove the belly shield).
Digging deeper into this myself, Hyundai themselves say you can add fluid thru the 'level checking plug' that we refer to as the 'inspection' plug. Ref TSB below, step 7. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10059658-2273.pdf
Great video! You mentioned that because there's still a red tint to it, this car qualified for this procedure. What if it was burnt/black? What procedure would you have to follow at that point? I ask because I have a 2012 with 190k and noticed it's starting to skip every so often and wondering if I should do a drain and fill but I don't want to do it if I will discover anything new. Sort of in line to what you say toward the end of the video about inducing new problems. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Please. I cannot emphasize enough to not bypass the reading of the transmission temperature using a scan tool to get correct level. DO NOT attempt to use a laser thermometer or anything else you can come up with. You will not get the correct level and scan tools are cheap. My cheap Obd2 scan tool gets the transmission temp
You can just measure the drained fluid and replace that making sure the transmission has completed cooled off to the ambient temperature like after a night of not driving it.
One question: When you used the scan tool to measure the oil temperature, it was meaning the engine oil temperature and not the ATF temperature, correct? EDIT: Since 120 F is about 50 degrees C, I guess it wasn't the engine oil temperature.
If you don't mind me asking what state do you live in I would like to bring my vehicle into you to get service you seem like a respectful honest mechanic
This method only works if you do the service when the transmission is cold. If you drain and measure hot fluid, and fill the transmission with cold fluid your level will be incorrect
excellent video , i use the inspection cap to fill the tranny with a transfer pump, way faster than waiting on gravity and air pressure filling through the fill cap hole, also, this method can be used if by chance the fill cap is stuck or stripped...love the instruction , this is how i will do it next time, just because it looks to be more laid back than feeding a pump into five bottles...LOL
Great video. I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. It would be nice if you would make a video that shows the difference between the xTool D9, D8 & D7, Bidirectional vs Diagnostic comparisons. I noticed you don't have the D9 2024 scanner in your amazon store. If you explain the differences of those tools in a video I'm sure some people will consider buying it from your store including myself. Regardless, thanks for the video. It has all the most important, necessary info. BTW I was a professional mechanic for 20 years, was licensed as a test and repair mechanic by State of California and worked in a smog shop (and never misdiagnosed a smog repair even once) and I rebuilt about 20 automatic transmissions in my career. People who know me still ask me to work on their cars from time to time and my old snap on scanner is getting outdated.
On our 2015 Sedona with 145,000 miles, I drained and filled 5 L per procedure and added 700 mL for the fluid check procedure. The fluid was nasty and due for some fresh fluid. When i performed the fluid check, two liters came out from the check port over two minutes. I hope that's ok. It seems to drive just fine.
For a 2011 hyundai elantra sedan 1.8l , how much fluid does it need ? I believe the transmission is basically the same , and what type of hyundai fluid ?
Stephen --- Great information -- I am wanting to change the trans fluid on my 2019 Elantra SE with the 6 speed automatic that has 55K original miles and as far as I know the fluid has not been changed, but ... OK so there is ACTUALLY TWO (2) Fill plugs that I see people using! One is under the Air Box (after removal) and this plastic plug is actually the "VENT" for the transmission CORRECT? The factory "FILL HOLE" is towards the rear and a metal 24MM plug like the 24MM metal drain plug -- CORRECT? Does the Manufacturer (or dealer) use the PLASTIC VENT PLUG or the METAL FILL PLUG Location to add fluid? That is my question!
Question. When checking the level you leave the engine running? Can you check it with the engine off? I know using a dip stick tranny you check the level running but with the side opening running also? Very good video. Thanks
Thanks a lot for video. Do you remember, by any chance, the time it took to warm up to 122F? If started in ambient indoor, the temperature of the fluide should be correlated in a reasonably precise manner with a specific time of idle running the engine. I believe this would help those who doesn't have a scanning tool, and they are many out there! Thank in advance.
At 16:30 you can see a timeline at the bottom of the screen. He got to 116F in just under 15 minutes, so getting to 122F probably took a few minutes longer. So let's say 15-20 minutes.
Glad we came across this video.Thank you! Can we use the same ATF SP4- M FLUID you're using, on a 2021 Kia Telluride SX? The Telluride Manual states to use SP- IV SK, MICHANG is recommended for the eight-speed automatic transmission. Your servicing a six-speed automatic transmission on this video. With the same specs as the Telluride what's the difference six-speed and 8-speed fluid. Or can we use the same fluid you are using. For the 8-speed automatic transmission. The dealership is using SP4- M1 . We cannot get a definite answer. If we cannot find the correct fluid for an eight-speed automatic transmission. What can you recommend with your permission. If we may ask. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Mike from Jersey shore.👍
He only loves comments. He doesn’t answer them. Lol. In seriousness, this process is different from what I’m used to. I would think you’d want to cycle through the gears to open the solenoids and move the fluid around THEN check the level. But Hyundais are strange. No dipstick? All the videos I have seen on this are different. His seems to be the most thorough but still leaving some questions on the table. Who knows if dealers even follow what’s supposed to be done. Time is money there and I’m sure they rush through the process. Better off doing yourself.
I really appreciated watching this video, it's the best I have seen so far. On my 2017 Santa Fe diesel it looks very difficult to access the filling point, would pumping it into the check level plug vent accomplish the same thing?
I just did my 2022 Kia Seltos IVT fluid at 30K miles. Oddly, 3.25q came out but when I put in 3q it was too much. I ran the car until the transmission temp reached 125 (within spec) and opened the level check plug. About 1/2 q of fluids came out before the fluid trickled out. Perhaps the factory over filled the transmission?
Beat video on YT! Liked and subscribed. I do have two questions though Would this be the exact procedure tor a 2016 model? Also, where would I position thr jack stands underneath? I can't find the info or video demonstrating that and it doesn't seem obvious to me where the location is underneath for the jack stands. Thanks for the awesomeness video man!
Hello, thank you for your videos. What do you think about a 2015 Elantra 175K miles, you put it in D and does nothing, 5 to 7 seconds later it engages with a little kick?
nice video you really seems to take pride in your work and do it properly quick question my 2018 elantra’s atf fill plug seems to be blocked by the neutral safety switch’s plastic plate. do you have a way of taking it out without filing the atf fill plug?
I wonder which transmission line going into the transmission is the correct one that I can find a good tool removal area. I like the idea to drain, fill, run the engine while sticking the line into a clear bottle to catch what fluid comes from the torque converter and goes through a radiator tank or cooler, then stop when the bottle holds about a quart, add a new quart to the transmission and repeat the process a few times. A second person is needed to start and stop the engine quickly, even shifting through the gears a bit. I did this with my Subaru and it was very easy (3 cycles of the process). This way I was sure to get out a good amount of old fluid before resorting to driving again and simply mixing the new with the old. *Anyone have photos of the specific line that goes into the trans after it has performed the cooling cycle and is about to go into the trans functioning process?*
The right side line on the cooler, marked with yellow paint is the return line. When running about a litre every 5 or 6 seconds will pump out. Some will come out the other line as well.
For this (or any unibody car) what point are you using to jack the car up? When you raised the rear you did not use the pinch welds on the side. Similarly, were your front jack stands set on the pinch welds, or somewhere else?
To jack the car up dead center in the front and rear, you would use the front or rear subframe, respectively. If you only need the Jack one side of the car up, you could use the pinch welds when I want to jack the front of the car up I’ll jacket from the subframe and then put jackstands under the pinch welds
Have a 2013 Hyundai sonata. I bought it used I don’t think they ever changed the fluid in it . Has 112000 miles on it everything works great but heard not to change it because it could make it go bad is that true ?
I changed mine on a sonnata with 109K and it was very very dirty, but didn't break anything, it shifts much better now. I would say go for it, you are only changing 1/3rd of it anyway at a time.
Did my 2017 Sportage AWD todayl I was unable to remove the fluid level plug! the plug backs out fine, but hits the rim, or edge of the transmission "cooler" and becomes cocked there - not sure I want to put a pliers on the plug and force it out. Any ideas??? Thanks,
Hi Thanks for the video Do you know if there is some kind of tool to extract the fluid from the turbine inside the automatic transmission? And actually extract the whole transmission fluid without leaving a trace of old fluid? I’m planing to replace the filter inside as well
The only way to do that is the flush it by using the transmission cooler lines, but you’d have to use a lot of fluid. The filter inside the transmission is not serviceable without splitting the case.
Technical safety question. I’m planning to do aft service on 17 Elantra. At 14:19 you mentioned that you have the car’s front on 2 jack stands and the rear on one jack alone. I’m not entirely positive it’s a safe method (especially w/jack in the rear of the car). Would it be more safe to put car on all 4 jacks instead? Also, when you shift between parking and Drive while car is in the air is it possible that it will lurk forward a bit and off jack stands??? I had my 2019 Ody and 17 Accord Hybrid on 4 jack stands before, but never tried to start the car and shift between gears like you did. I thought it’s unsafe, but I’m not a mechanic, so that’s why asking here. Btw. Hondas have much better design to lift cars than Hyundais. There are front an rear jacking points. Much more convenient as you can lift whole front with jack.
Hy , thank you for the detailed video im Planing to do a transmisiom fluid on my Hyundai , do you know anything about the transmission oilfilter?? It should hawe one inside the transmission, is it necessary to chance it or not? Thank you
Hi, great video. Very methodical. I have a 2016 Sonata AND a 2016 Kia Sportage. I have drained and filled the Sportage and I used Kia Transmission Fluid (SP-IV M) on that job. I had more than 2 quarts left over, and as you know the fluid is pretty expensive. Do you know whether or not the Kia fluid is the same formula as the Hyundai fluid? The Hyundai fluid, at least where I live, is even more expensive than the Kia fluid. If your service manual says anything about it, of course...by the way, the owner's manual has the exact same description of acceptable transmission fluids for each vehicle. Thanks in advance.
@@SEsGarage Thanks for the response. I'm trying to check with Hyundai to see what they say, but will also look under the car to see if the transmission has both Hyundai and Kia markings on it.
Yeah admittedly I was a bit rusty from being out of the dealer for a little over a year when I made this video. You need 6 quarts when replacing the transmission harness for the fluid temp sensor TSB because you loose so much more fluid when you pull the valve body.
I mistakenly turned off my engine after reaching the desired temperature and then open the level checking lid. Will this cause any issue? 1 had almost 1 liter of fluid drained
Yes you likely have a severely under filled transmission. The reason for doing this with the car running is to keep the torque converter filled with fluid
Good video 👍🏻 ., is this the same way for my 2018 Hyundai Tucson 1.6T ., and do you know if it uses the same transmission oil grade as shown on your video , Also how many quarts would my transmission take
1.6T would be a dual clutch transmission unfortunately. Different procedure, more like servicing a manual transmission, and it takes regular gear oil, not transmission fluid
They use a ZF automatic transmission assuming you have the 8 speed auto. The full and inspection port is on the side of the trans. And the filter is built into the transmission pan. Any RUclips video showing how to service a ZF transmission should guide you through the process
First off thank you for your Hyundai videos. Could you tell me where the best lift points are for this car? Obviously the pinch welds are the best spots but I noticed you had a floor jack somewhere in the center rear. So other than the pinch welds where is the safest spot so I can use a floor jack and still have room to get the jackstands to the pinch weld? Tia
@@paulwylie989 so an update and resetting adaptive values are two different things when you reset adaptive all you’re doing is telling the transmission to relearn shift patterns and shift pressures
If you don't have a scan tool, doesn't the computer automatically "relearn" the shift patterns and shift pressures, after you drive for a while?@@SEsGarage
@@davidmclain1875 it’s supposed to “adapt” but sometimes it learns bad behaviors that can induce shift flares/hard shifts. An adaptive value reset will wipe that out completely and force it to start from scratch
This service has to be done around 80.000Kms? or 100.000Kms? I have been checking users manual and says "no service required". This makes no sense for me
@S&E's Garage thank you. I have two more questions if you don't mind? 1- did you check the fluid level while the car was idling? And 2- having the trans fluid almost black, can that cause it to down shift hard from 3rd gear to 2nd almost if you were breaking hard?
Are these transmissions super sensitive to fluid level? I replaced mine with a KIA re manufactured unit and its kind of obnoxious on downshifts when coming to a stop and the 3-4 up shift is soft to the point of feeling like its slipping.
Would you please advise How can I change the transmition oil in turbine of elantra 2005 which the fillter is placed into the gears section. By opening the screw is placed in the bottom of tank, you can only change the oil of tank and there is remained 4liter oil in gears section.
Good video thank you. People should know that draining the transmission only gets out about half of the fluid that is actually in there. The transmission assembly holds almost 8 liters, about 4 liters came out when I drained mine, the torque converter alone holds quite a lot of fluid. With the extra effort outlined here you can replace all of the fluid. The transmission oil cooler is attached to the front of the transmission just above the transmission oil level check plug. Remove the return oil line identified with red paint that goes up to the transmission. It was on the upper right hand side of my cooler. Attach some 3/8 tubing where the rubber oil line came off, put the tubing into an empty container. I used some empty 2 liter pop bottles so that I could quickly judge how much fluid was coming out. I bought 10 L of the maxlife fluid. Drain the old fluid as per this video and replace the oil plug, replace the oil inspection plug. Put at least 4 L of new fluid in the transmission, don't exceed 5 L. Have an assistant start the engine and slowly move the gear selector through the gear positions as you watch the fluid coming out. Turn off the engine when 2 liters come out, regardless of what gear the transmission might be in. Add two more liters of new fluid to the transmission and do this again. You have now pumped out the old fluid from the torque converter and valve body. Please note that about a cup of old fluid will come out of the removed rubber oil line as well so be prepared to catch it too. My Santa Fe pumped out about a liter every 6 seconds. Top up the fluid as per this video. Finish up by driving for about 10 minutes and then checking the oil level, note that the oil level must be checked with the engine running. Ten minutes of driving will get the transmission hot enough, don't worry about that. You should have your assistant read these instructions as well before you start so that they know what is happening and are ready.
Well done. 👍
Its just funny to me how the transmission fluid temp is stressed as super important on these new cars because it effects the level and you just just gotta make SURE the fluid is between 137.843 and 139.367 degrees.
but then the actual method of checking the level itself is this subjective as hell procedure where you're left judging a stream of fluid while its actively leaking out of the transmission lol
137.843 and 139.367 degrees!!! probably hard to find a thermometer with a 1/1000 degree accuracy...!
Lmao I just realized the irony of this
My thoughts
At Nissan I just check if the man is too warm to touch comfortably. I'm sure you're supposed to use a scanner but my dealership doesn't have reliable scanners.
Or you can drain the transmission putting the old fluid into a measured container, get an accurate reading of what came out and put the exact amount back in. It won't hurt a thing.
that assuming the factory put in the correct amount.
Not a good idea. As fluid could leak / seep over time (due to age) thru the lines to/from the cooler, you're 'reading' is subject to be inaccurate.
That is a breather plug. That's if anything gets down the breather hose and then into dropping it straight into the transmission pan. If you look at the back of the transmission on the top at the back you'll see a 24 mm fill point bolt. Take that off. Use a hook and hose and pump and you can pump it straight into the air. That is a semi-blind hole you're trying to put it through and if you took off the transmission cover you would see exactly what I meant. That is a breather hole. You've also got to line up the whole properly on that piece. You've just taken out so it breathes properly. It's 24 mm bolt the same as the drain plug but on the top at the back it's 10 times easier for filling up than what you do
What happens if your transmission has burnt some of the fluid away then you will basically filling the wrong amount up?
@@justinsalter9059 Great information -- I am wanting to change the trans fluid on my 2019 Elantra SE with the 6 speed automatic that has 55K original miles and as far as I know the fluid has not been changed, but ... OK so there is ACTUALLY TWO (2) Fill plugs that I see people using! One is under the Air Box (after removal) and this plastic plug is actually the "VENT" for the transmission CORRECT? The factory "FILL HOLE" is towards the rear and a metal 24MM plug like the 24MM metal drain plug -- CORRECT? Does the Manufacturer (or dealer) use the VENT PLUG or the METAL FILL PLUG Location to add fluid? That is my question!
After watching a few videos, I've come to the conclusion that you're the only guy doing it right. Most of the guys check the level with the car off, I think they'll end up with low fluid. I saw an excerpt from a factory service manual, it wasn't emphasized that the car should be running, but if you follow the steps as they were written it never said turn the car off. Nice job on the video. Thanks for posting.
Wow this is the only video on RUclips. That has hit a homerun. With the " Correct" fluid information that's needed for the 8- speed automatic transmission fluid that matches the Telluride maintenance book. Excellent information. We Thank you for this information you have displayed for us. 🙏
I did this job today at home, 5th time I've done it. Add new fluid with car off, and side inspection port open. You can pour in three quarts without any gurgling. Then start the car and get it up to operating temperature for the last bit. Usually 3.5qts, give or take.
Hey, what transmission fluid did you use
@alltorque415 In the past I've used Valvoline MaxLife, red bottle. But now I use Amsoil ATLQT-EA
Being a DIY guy for my family’s cars, I watch up to a dozen and more videos on the job I’m going to do. Because of that, I can tell a guy that does things with care and you are one of those types. Admitting tour mistakes that we all make saves others from making the same mistakes. I am not as picky on having to use the dealer brand as long as you are using a reputable brand. Good job. I subscribed.
Girlfriends 2018 Elantra is at 100k miles and I’m thinking of getting this done next… the rear drums on it were a lot easier than I thought and I wanna prove her wrong by keeping it on the road mechanic free for another 100k at least… thing is less rusty than my 4 year old Tiguan… Definitely better built than all the VW/Audis I’ve been DIYing for the past 20+ years
I literally have done two of the three changes to complete my flush and each time I kept making a mess because of the bubbling…pulling the line is such a simple thing…your video is about to make my third/ final change so much easier. 🙏🏽
Hey, what transmission fluid did you use
Thank you. I followed the same steps on my KIA Forte, and it's shifting smoother than ever. Thank you😇
This is an excellent video, thanks for sharing! One suggestion that would help us DIYers in future is if you run your scan tool until you reach the minimum temp (122F), then immediately do a measurement with an IR thermometer. Then we will all learn the difference (if any), plus the best area/s on the trans to take the measurement. It's a pretty big range and I feel the IR thermometer method should be accurate enough, especially if you can prove that it does. Because you have the scan tool, we don't. Cheers.
Excellent idea. DIY'ers are all about saving money. Had he done what you suggested, it would save anyone from buying the scan tool.
This is the most accurate info on a Hyundai transmission fluid change. Thanks!
Thank you so much! Glad my video helped you
Everybody makes fun of Hyundais. I'm a long time auto ASe tech used to work in GM dealers. I've had three so far and not one issue at all with any of them. As long as you do the maintenance and don't beat on them they are really good vehicles. My 2014 Tuscon has 165,000 and doesn't burn any oil (it had the new engine recall at 50k at no cost to me) , gets 35mpg (rated for 21-28), shifts perfectly and runs like new. I take care of it by keeping engine bay clean, use synthetic oils and think it's gonna last well over 200k. I also have an Elantra Gt with 50k and same thing not one issue. Maintenance is cheaper than repairs remember that!
Nowadays, maintenance at dealers cost at much as repairs. They wonder why we don't go to them.
I have a 2018 Sonata with the 2.4 that I purchased new. I changed my ATF fluid yesterday (30,000 miles) after driving the car to warm up the oil. I carefully measured the fluid after draining. 3.7 quarts came out, so I put 3.7 back in.
Kirk, how did your fluid look at 30,000 miles? I have a 2020 Sorento 2.4 with 6 speed auto, and we like it a ton, so I want to change the fluids myself. It has 18,000 miles on it and was thinking this summer on the ATF fluid change.
Thank you sir!
30k to me is a bit overkill. Most cars I’ve drained at 60 the fluid still looks decent
Was the fluid still a decent color and smell?
Thanks
@@pmtips4482 yes it’s usually still red at 60k. A darker red than new fluid but still red non the less. If your curious just pull the inspection plate on the front of the valve body cover with the engine running and stick your pinky in there
@@SEsGarage Many thanks!
I work at a Kia dealer service department and I did this service yesterday on my 2021 Hyundai Sonata Limited 1.6 T with an 8-speed automatic transmission following the service information manual on my service laptop.
Was it the same process as this?
Yours is the most methodical video on changing the transmission fluid and like a lot of these sealed transmissions it needs to be checked at a specific temperature which you emphasize so the fluid is the correct level at operating temp. IMHO the difference between a "just enough knowledge to be dangerous" job and one that is the same level as an experienced tech. I was not confident to do my 2013 Sportage until I saw this video. It is our much loved family treasure and I didnt want to be one of the ignorant butchers that missed important details. I will be choosing a high quality fluid that is a Penrite SP 4 low viscosity ATF. It seems that a lot of synthetic fluids are converging on similar specs rather than the old 50 different mineral trans fluids.
[Edit] Just done the fluid change on My 2013 Diesel Sportage using Penrite LV ATF which includes SP4 and SP4-M. Hardest part was shimmying under to get the under tray off. A four post hoist for christmas please! Fluid was dirty enough ( A bit dirtier than your example) to vindicate the change at 140k kilometres which is recommended for severe duty. My car has had it pretty easy with a lot of motorway and country trips but I still reckon 9 years is long enough even with long life fluids. That filler was a challenge as I did not take off the oil cooler hose as you suggested. Definitely needs to be slow to stop it burping out. I did see one guy filling with a drum pump into the level checking hole. Seemed to work well. Next time will be a long neck funnel! I removed the airbox which was one bolt on the LHS and releasing the air hose clamp and the sensor on the front. The snorkel was easy with the little press button connectors just needing a push in the center to release and then push the pin out the top to put back in and pop it back in to the way you found it.
I didn't have a temp gauge to check the level but I did drive it for a while so it would be close enough to normal temp. I didn't think it was shifting bad before but it does seem to be a bit smoother afterwards. Maybe the newer synthetic fluids are better than the OEM fluids. Very satisfying! Thank you.
Appreciate the kind words, and I’m glad my video gave you the confidence to do this job! Let us know how you make out! As long as the fluid you choose meets or exceeds OEM specs you’ll be fine
How has your transmission been feeling?
I just measured the amount of fluid I drained and put the same amount back in
Instead of removing the trans cooling line, I find it easier just to remove the plug for the fluid level check before filling. That allows the trans to "breathe" when filling.
I’ve never done it that way, I have however filled the hybrid transmission through the inspection hole to avoid having to pull the inverter assembly
I found that it started running out well before there was enough in there doing it this way, only about 3 or so liters when it needed to be about 4.5 to 5 litres. so I had to top it up a couple of times with attendant removal of access parts. Next time I will use a long funnel and do it slow to put about 5 liters in so it only needs one level check. Experience gained for next time!
Still worth it for the satisfaction of knowing you are looking after longevity and smooth shifting enjoyment.
A.R., that way worked on my 2012 Sonata, which I've done 3-4 times. But not on the 2017, it gurgled all over and was a mess. I have to do my 2019 now, so I may have to pull that cooler line.
im going to remember this for next time..
I did this by using a transfer pump and pumping in through the overfill drain. Once I got fluid back I stopped. Warmed the car up and checked again. I stopped at a steady trickle which might be slightly less than you did.
This guy top shelf first class
Contrary to what he said, I’d recommend replacing the aluminum crush washer and tighten the bolt with a torque wrench to the spec called for. If not, The likelihood of a slow leak is increased, and will create a lot more work to correct in the future. Just get a new washer. They’re only like a buck or two. Same with engine oil plug.
“You need to be mechanically inclined”….”remove this air snorkel”. 😂
Great video. Can you just take out what u put in? Instead of doing all of that warming up ans scan tool stuff?
I did that on a 2013 Rio and work perfectly. 181K on the transmission.
Perfect level of explanation. Thanks so much.
My freakin god thank you i legit couldn't figure out how to use that tool every video shows it in reverse and that wasn't working for me thank you so much
Spill, measure, fill. If you don't have any leaks, it doesn't just disappear. Better for the fluid level to be a little off than to not change the fluid. If you can change your oil, you can service your transmission. No need for a scan tool if you are careful.
Hey, we just hit 110,000 miles on our 16 kia optima sxl. Do you still recommend changing it?
clean n sassy baby. thats the name of the game. the name of the damn game.
Can you just measure what drains out and refill with the same amount?
Great video. I’m going to give this a go on my daughter’s 2018 Santa Fe. I can imagine the dealer will charge a few hundred for this (bought a scan tool instead). Question….when you open the plug to let the fluid “trickle out” before closing…..seems this is really subjective. When you closed it, to me it didn’t seem like a steady stream. That’s the only part of this job that concerns me. When you drain the fluid, does a lot remain inside? Asking Becusee I’m going to check the fluid capacity and then keep an eye on how much I add before I pop that plug to let some drain. If the capacity is 5 quarts and I added 5 then I’d be really nervous to let a lot spill out while checking it. Unless the engine keeps a bunch of the old fluid after you drain it. Thanks
ALSO: since Hyundai doesn’t have a dipstick (unreal why not)…this is a totally different process from my other car. You can’t cycle through the gears on the Hyundai and get the fluid moving doing this process before checking the level. I’m trusting in the factory service process here lol.
This is one of the better videos, however...
That final over-flow/inspection port stream was still pushing out quite a bit of fluid.
And everyone is going to be different/subjective on when to call it.
5-10 seconds early or late seems like it could easily be 1/2 quart.
There has to be a better way of dialing that in properly. What it you were to shut the engine off, and let it dribble out until it is actually just drips/drabs?
Then at that point you could add 1/4 - 1/2 qt and be closer to spot on?
Wonder if there is a Service Manual that explains this, as it seems rather critical.
I typically let it drain until it stops “gurgling”
I did not understand what he meant by a "steady flow" before putting the plastic cap back on.
Wouldn't have been better if he put only 4 qts of fluid instead of 5? Then when you opened the checking cap, you would see no oil coming out. Then you add the 5th quart slowly until it starts to come out? Answers 🙏 please...thanks
wondering the same thing, any answers?
How long did it take for the car to get up 122° at idle? Thanks for the video.
This video got me thinking. If you're supposed to get it to within a range of the temperature, then plug the inspection port back up when it's a slow trickle, anyone ever re-inspect the level after they let it cool off ? I know fluid expands when it's hot, but that by that much. My hunch is that when the fluid is back to room temperature, it will be at the bottom of the inspection port, very similar to how axles and past transmissions were 'full' when the fluid started coming out of the service port.
If my theory is correct, and can be verified, future fluid changes can all be done 100% from the bottom. Drain as usual, and then full thru the 'inspection' port until it starts oozing out. Start engine, cycle thru the gears, and then just top off again thru the inspection port. Should make the whole process less than 10 minutes (minus the time required to remove the belly shield).
Digging deeper into this myself, Hyundai themselves say you can add fluid thru the 'level checking plug' that we refer to as the 'inspection' plug. Ref TSB below, step 7.
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10059658-2273.pdf
Great video! You mentioned that because there's still a red tint to it, this car qualified for this procedure. What if it was burnt/black? What procedure would you have to follow at that point? I ask because I have a 2012 with 190k and noticed it's starting to skip every so often and wondering if I should do a drain and fill but I don't want to do it if I will discover anything new. Sort of in line to what you say toward the end of the video about inducing new problems. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
If it is burnt/black then you're better off leaving it alone from what I understand. If you change it the transmission may slip.
Very professional I appreciate the info I got my Kia done in minutes
Please. I cannot emphasize enough to not bypass the reading of the transmission temperature using a scan tool to get correct level. DO NOT attempt to use a laser thermometer or anything else you can come up with. You will not get the correct level and scan tools are cheap. My cheap Obd2 scan tool gets the transmission temp
You don't need a $600 scan tool to do this job. That's ridiculous.
You need a scan tool that will read live data and I’m simply sharing the scan tool I use with my viewers
A Bi directional scan tool is money well spent for an older car
You can just measure the drained fluid and replace that making sure the transmission has completed cooled off to the ambient temperature like after a night of not driving it.
Did you measure the engine oil OR the transmission fluid temperature? They are two different things.
@@testtesting2868 I really hope this isn’t a real question……
One question: When you used the scan tool to measure the oil temperature, it was meaning the engine oil temperature and not the ATF temperature, correct? EDIT: Since 120 F is about 50 degrees C, I guess it wasn't the engine oil temperature.
If you don't mind me asking what state do you live in I would like to bring my vehicle into you to get service you seem like a respectful honest mechanic
Hey! Thanks for the kind words! I’m located in NJ
Great video. Save yourself some time and measure the fluid that came out so it's easy to determine how much fluid to put back in.
This method only works if you do the service when the transmission is cold. If you drain and measure hot fluid, and fill the transmission with cold fluid your level will be incorrect
I had a leak . so, I'm guessing this wouldn't work for me
excellent video , i use the inspection cap to fill the tranny with a transfer pump, way faster than waiting on gravity and air pressure filling through the fill cap hole, also, this method can be used if by chance the fill cap is stuck or stripped...love the instruction , this is how i will do it next time, just because it looks to be more laid back than feeding a pump into five bottles...LOL
I do the hybrid transmissions that way, as the power inverter is in the way of the fill plug on those
First video I’ve seen where the car is running when you open the inspection hole.Now I’m a little nervous about doing it.
No need to be nervous about that, that's how it's done. I've done it 5 times on 2 different cars.
Great video. I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. It would be nice if you would make a video that shows the difference between the xTool D9, D8 & D7, Bidirectional vs Diagnostic comparisons. I noticed you don't have the D9 2024 scanner in your amazon store. If you explain the differences of those tools in a video I'm sure some people will consider buying it from your store including myself. Regardless, thanks for the video. It has all the most important, necessary info. BTW I was a professional mechanic for 20 years, was licensed as a test and repair mechanic by State of California and worked in a smog shop (and never misdiagnosed a smog repair even once) and I rebuilt about 20 automatic transmissions in my career. People who know me still ask me to work on their cars from time to time and my old snap on scanner is getting outdated.
On our 2015 Sedona with 145,000 miles, I drained and filled 5 L per procedure and added 700 mL for the fluid check procedure. The fluid was nasty and due for some fresh fluid. When i performed the fluid check, two liters came out from the check port over two minutes. I hope that's ok. It seems to drive just fine.
2 liters at the check port is a tremendous amount of overfill.
For a 2011 hyundai elantra sedan 1.8l , how much fluid does it need ? I believe the transmission is basically the same , and what type of hyundai fluid ?
Awesome cool video thanks for sharing. Do have to replace the oil plug & washer every time you change the oil? Thumbs up to your video.
Stephen --- Great information -- I am wanting to change the trans fluid on my 2019 Elantra SE with the 6 speed automatic that has 55K original miles and as far as I know the fluid has not been changed, but ... OK so there is ACTUALLY TWO (2) Fill plugs that I see people using! One is under the Air Box (after removal) and this plastic plug is actually the "VENT" for the transmission CORRECT? The factory "FILL HOLE" is towards the rear and a metal 24MM plug like the 24MM metal drain plug -- CORRECT? Does the Manufacturer (or dealer) use the PLASTIC VENT PLUG or the METAL FILL PLUG Location to add fluid? That is my question!
The plug that I use in this video is the plug that you need to be using.
Question. When checking the level you leave the engine running? Can you check it with the engine off? I know using a dip stick tranny you check the level running but with the side opening running also? Very good video. Thanks
Thanks a lot for video. Do you remember, by any chance, the time it took to warm up to 122F? If started in ambient indoor, the temperature of the fluide should be correlated in a reasonably precise manner with a specific time of idle running the engine. I believe this would help those who doesn't have a scanning tool, and they are many out there! Thank in advance.
At 16:30 you can see a timeline at the bottom of the screen. He got to 116F in just under 15 minutes, so getting to 122F probably took a few minutes longer. So let's say 15-20 minutes.
Glad we came across this video.Thank you! Can we use the same ATF SP4- M FLUID you're using, on a 2021 Kia Telluride SX? The Telluride Manual states to use SP- IV SK, MICHANG is recommended for the eight-speed automatic transmission. Your servicing a six-speed automatic transmission on this video. With the same specs as the Telluride what's the difference six-speed and 8-speed fluid. Or can we use the same fluid you are using. For the 8-speed automatic transmission. The dealership is using SP4- M1 . We cannot get a definite answer. If we cannot find the correct fluid for an eight-speed automatic transmission. What can you recommend with your permission. If we may ask. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Mike from Jersey shore.👍
Couldn't you have done a total fluid change by letting the fluid flow out the trans line you disconnected?
thank you for the instructions. At 17:20 of this video engine is idling and gearbox is in P or N when level checking?
He only loves comments. He doesn’t answer them. Lol. In seriousness, this process is different from what I’m used to. I would think you’d want to cycle through the gears to open the solenoids and move the fluid around THEN check the level. But Hyundais are strange. No dipstick? All the videos I have seen on this are different. His seems to be the most thorough but still leaving some questions on the table. Who knows if dealers even follow what’s supposed to be done. Time is money there and I’m sure they rush through the process. Better off doing yourself.
I really appreciated watching this video, it's the best I have seen so far. On my 2017 Santa Fe diesel it looks very difficult to access the filling point, would pumping it into the check level plug vent accomplish the same thing?
Thanks buddy it worked 2020 Kia sportage.
I just did my 2022 Kia Seltos IVT fluid at 30K miles. Oddly, 3.25q came out but when I put in 3q it was too much. I ran the car until the transmission temp reached 125 (within spec) and opened the level check plug. About 1/2 q of fluids came out before the fluid trickled out. Perhaps the factory over filled the transmission?
I have a video up on servicing an IVT transmission on a 2020 ELANTRA feel free to check it out!
How to service your Hyundai/Kia IVT/CVT transmission!!
ruclips.net/video/clav1XzCF3E/видео.html
@@SEsGarage awesome! thank you!
Beat video on YT! Liked and subscribed.
I do have two questions though Would this be the exact procedure tor a 2016 model? Also, where would I position thr jack stands underneath? I can't find the info or video demonstrating that and it doesn't seem obvious to me where the location is underneath for the jack stands.
Thanks for the awesomeness video man!
You’d want to jack the car up via the front and rear sub frames and place your jack stands on the pinch welds!
@@SEsGarage okay, thank you info and reply!🤘😎🤘
Any time! Glad I could help!
Hello, thank you for your videos.
What do you think about a 2015 Elantra 175K miles, you put it in D and does nothing, 5 to 7 seconds later it engages with a little kick?
Your video was perfect I couldn’t have done this without your help thank you 🙏
You're welcome!
When I did my daughters KIA Forte I had almost 1/2 quart come out of the inspection hole. Scared me that I did something wrong.
Then it was full
How many miles where on this car? And what year is the car?
I have a 2020 elentra cvt transmission. At what mileage should it be changed at ?????
nice video you really seems to take pride in your work and do it properly
quick question my 2018 elantra’s atf fill plug seems to be blocked by the neutral safety switch’s plastic plate. do you have a way of taking it out without filing the atf fill plug?
It should clear!
@@SEsGarage thanks!
Could I use the
ATF SP4M-1 from Kia? I was told it’s the same as the Hyundai SP4M. It’s $16 a quart in the Kia dealership.
Hyundai and Kia are the same company. What works in one will work in the other.
I wonder which transmission line going into the transmission is the correct one that I can find a good tool removal area. I like the idea to drain, fill, run the engine while sticking the line into a clear bottle to catch what fluid comes from the torque converter and goes through a radiator tank or cooler, then stop when the bottle holds about a quart, add a new quart to the transmission and repeat the process a few times. A second person is needed to start and stop the engine quickly, even shifting through the gears a bit.
I did this with my Subaru and it was very easy (3 cycles of the process). This way I was sure to get out a good amount of old fluid before resorting to driving again and simply mixing the new with the old. *Anyone have photos of the specific line that goes into the trans after it has performed the cooling cycle and is about to go into the trans functioning process?*
The right side line on the cooler, marked with yellow paint is the return line. When running about a litre every 5 or 6 seconds will pump out. Some will come out the other line as well.
Thank you for this video. It looked like your scan tool said engine oil temp, as opposed to trans oil temp. Can you clarify?
We are in the transmission live data looking at the transmission oil temperature
For this (or any unibody car) what point are you using to jack the car up? When you raised the rear you did not use the pinch welds on the side. Similarly, were your front jack stands set on the pinch welds, or somewhere else?
To jack the car up dead center in the front and rear, you would use the front or rear subframe, respectively. If you only need the Jack one side of the car up, you could use the pinch welds when I want to jack the front of the car up I’ll jacket from the subframe and then put jackstands under the pinch welds
If you dont have a scan tool & your car doesn't leak trans fluid can you just put the exact amount you drained?
You’d have to do the service with the transmission at ambient temperature and fill it at the same temperature for this to be accurate
Have a 2013 Hyundai sonata. I bought it used I don’t think they ever changed the fluid in it . Has 112000 miles on it everything works great but heard not to change it because it could make it go bad is that true ?
I changed mine on a sonnata with 109K and it was very very dirty, but didn't break anything, it shifts much better now. I would say go for it, you are only changing 1/3rd of it anyway at a time.
Did my 2017 Sportage AWD todayl I was unable to remove the fluid level plug! the plug backs out fine, but hits the rim, or edge of the transmission "cooler" and becomes cocked there - not sure I want to put a pliers on the plug and force it out. Any ideas??? Thanks,
Just unbolt the cooler and slide it over a hair
@@SEsGarage Thanks Stephan! That worked. Awesome information!
@@rickrichards345 so glad I could help!!
Ia the same procedure for a palisade 2021 or what are the differences? Thanks
Yes should be!
Hi
Thanks for the video
Do you know if there is some kind of tool to extract the fluid from the turbine inside the automatic transmission? And actually extract the whole transmission fluid without leaving a trace of old fluid?
I’m planing to replace the filter inside as well
The only way to do that is the flush it by using the transmission cooler lines, but you’d have to use a lot of fluid. The filter inside the transmission is not serviceable without splitting the case.
@@SEsGarage thanks a lot
I will do the same as you did 😎👍🏼 I think that is good enough
would this sp3 or sp4 work on kia sportage 2019 2.4l,
its currently at 130k should i even change it?
Technical safety question. I’m planning to do aft service on 17 Elantra. At 14:19 you mentioned that you have the car’s front on 2 jack stands and the rear on one jack alone. I’m not entirely positive it’s a safe method (especially w/jack in the rear of the car). Would it be more safe to put car on all 4 jacks instead? Also, when you shift between parking and Drive while car is in the air is it possible that it will lurk forward a bit and off jack stands???
I had my 2019 Ody and 17 Accord Hybrid on 4 jack stands before, but never tried to start the car and shift between gears like you did. I thought it’s unsafe, but I’m not a mechanic, so that’s why asking here.
Btw. Hondas have much better design to lift cars than Hyundais. There are front an rear jacking points. Much more convenient as you can lift whole front with jack.
Visually alarming, the right thing to do with a customer's car, put it on 4 jack stands. Murphy's Law.
I believe that the fluid measurement should be done while the car is on R
Hy , thank you for the detailed video im
Planing to do a transmisiom fluid on my Hyundai , do you know anything about the transmission oilfilter?? It should hawe one inside the transmission, is it necessary to chance it or not?
Thank you
It’s not serviceable without overhauling the transmission
Uh That was a lot overfilled, didn’t run too long so not enough to hurt her but good video nice and detailed.
Hi, great video. Very methodical. I have a 2016 Sonata AND a 2016 Kia Sportage. I have drained and filled the Sportage and I used Kia Transmission Fluid (SP-IV M) on that job. I had more than 2 quarts left over, and as you know the fluid is pretty expensive. Do you know whether or not the Kia fluid is the same formula as the Hyundai fluid? The Hyundai fluid, at least where I live, is even more expensive than the Kia fluid. If your service manual says anything about it, of course...by the way, the owner's manual has the exact same description of acceptable transmission fluids for each vehicle. Thanks in advance.
They should be identical!
@@SEsGarage Thanks for the response. I'm trying to check with Hyundai to see what they say, but will also look under the car to see if the transmission has both Hyundai and Kia markings on it.
Good stuff. I used idemitsu trans oil sp4.
You dont need 6 quartz, 4 maximum 5 quartz just in case, however ive never needed the 5th quart.
Yeah admittedly I was a bit rusty from being out of the dealer for a little over a year when I made this video. You need 6 quarts when replacing the transmission harness for the fluid temp sensor TSB because you loose so much more fluid when you pull the valve body.
This car changes transmission filter?
7litre added or not
Hey at what mileage should i change the transmission fluid on my 18 kia soul?
I mistakenly turned off my engine after reaching the desired temperature and then open the level checking lid. Will this cause any issue? 1 had almost 1 liter of fluid drained
Yes you likely have a severely under filled transmission. The reason for doing this with the car running is to keep the torque converter filled with fluid
Good video 👍🏻 ., is this the same way for my 2018 Hyundai Tucson 1.6T ., and do you know if it uses the same transmission oil grade as shown on your video , Also how many quarts would my transmission take
1.6T would be a dual clutch transmission unfortunately. Different procedure, more like servicing a manual transmission, and it takes regular gear oil, not transmission fluid
@@SEsGarage ➡️ thank you for your reply , o Jesus , I’m gonna have to let the dealer do the job
Why nobody do the transmission flus video on this car?
Somebody said there's red and yellow hose pull the one to the trans would you recommend
The one marked with yellow paint is the return line. It is the right side hose on the cooler mounted on the front of the transaxle.
Hello. I have 2009 Hyundai Genesis with 4.6L. It is also sealed... But I have heard of people doing the flush/change from below only. Any guidance?
They use a ZF automatic transmission assuming you have the 8 speed auto. The full and inspection port is on the side of the trans. And the filter is built into the transmission pan. Any RUclips video showing how to service a ZF transmission should guide you through the process
First off thank you for your Hyundai videos. Could you tell me where the best lift points are for this car? Obviously the pinch welds are the best spots but I noticed you had a floor jack somewhere in the center rear. So other than the pinch welds where is the safest spot so I can use a floor jack and still have room to get the jackstands to the pinch weld? Tia
The front and rear subframes would be your next best bet
Concealing filters like that is an outrage
At the end you mention resetting the transmission adaptive. Do you mean the TCM? How is that reset?
The transmission adaptive values yes! You need a scan tool
@@SEsGarage Thanks. I'll try to communicate that to the 2nd Hyundai dealer. The 1st one said there were no "updates" available for the TCM.
@@paulwylie989 so an update and resetting adaptive values are two different things when you reset adaptive all you’re doing is telling the transmission to relearn shift patterns and shift pressures
If you don't have a scan tool, doesn't the computer automatically "relearn" the shift patterns and shift pressures, after you drive for a while?@@SEsGarage
@@davidmclain1875 it’s supposed to “adapt” but sometimes it learns bad behaviors that can induce shift flares/hard shifts. An adaptive value reset will wipe that out completely and force it to start from scratch
Boss man ! Thanks for the videos! My transmission is jumping gears while driving, can it be that the oil is low? Thanks in advance
You can try changing the fluid and resetting adaptive values!
@@SEsGarage thank you for your reply 🙏
How many miles was on this car when you serviced the transmission? I have 130k on mine. Do you think I can still do a drain and refill?
I wouldn’t hesitate!
using 5 or 6 liters?
Is the SP4 really equal to SP-M. Fluid. I have 2017. Elantra and are getting ready to do the work. Thanks for the video?
I was wondering the same thing, did you ever find out?
They are both the same. Hyundai Kia dealers call it SP-M instead of SP 4 for whatever reason.
This service has to be done around 80.000Kms? or 100.000Kms? I have been checking users manual and says "no service required". This makes no sense for me
Why not just measure how much fluid came out and then put the exact amount in?
What if your tranny is a quart low to begin with??? Just my 2 cents.🙂
The oil temperature sensor you were showing on your scantool, what it the engine or trans?
Transmission
@S&E's Garage thank you. I have two more questions if you don't mind? 1- did you check the fluid level while the car was idling? And 2- having the trans fluid almost black, can that cause it to down shift hard from 3rd gear to 2nd almost if you were breaking hard?
Are these transmissions super sensitive to fluid level? I replaced mine with a KIA re manufactured unit and its kind of obnoxious on downshifts when coming to a stop and the 3-4 up shift is soft to the point of feeling like its slipping.
Would you please advise How can I change the transmition oil in turbine of elantra 2005 which the fillter is placed into the gears section. By opening the screw is placed in the bottom of tank, you can only change the oil of tank and there is remained 4liter oil in gears section.
You’d have to do several drain and fills to get most of the fluid out of the torque converter. There is no way to drain it without removing it
Thank you for your response. Would you please more explain?