DIY Portable Switched Power Outlet With Extension Cord 🔌
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- In this video I make a safe, robust, portable switched power supply from commonly-available parts. These are very handy to have around the workshop, especially when you need to control tools without an on/off switch, or where the switch is in an inconvenient location. They're also helpful for workbenching, where you need a convenient way to control power to a tool or assembly you're testing.
🔨 Check out my full build article:
www.glennfraze...
-----------------------------------------------------
𝗨𝗣𝗗𝗔𝗧𝗘 𝗥𝗘𝗚𝗔𝗥𝗗𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗘𝗟𝗘𝗖𝗧𝗥𝗜𝗖𝗔𝗟 𝗖𝗢𝗗𝗘:
I recently became aware of National Electrical Code (NEC) Section 525.23. One pertinent Provision of this, which was added in the 2017 revision to the NEC, reads:
(𝗗) 𝗥𝗲𝗰𝗲𝗽𝘁𝗮𝗰𝗹𝗲𝘀 𝗦𝘂𝗽𝗽𝗹𝗶𝗲𝗱 𝗯𝘆 𝗣𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗮𝗯𝗹𝗲 𝗖𝗼𝗿𝗱𝘀. Where GFCI protection is provided through the use of GFCI receptacles, and the branch circuits supplying receptacles utilize flexible cord, the GFCI protection shall be listed, labeled, and identified for portable use.
Section 525.23 has other verbiage regarding GFCI protection that may be worth reading. As always, you work at your own risk. Don't take electrical wiring advise solely from some guy on RUclips.
------------------------------------------------------
👍 Turn your porta-bandsaw into a table-mounted saw with one of these: amzn.to/2XltiOK
Supplies:
4” by 4” metal junction box (amzn.to/2XeIHjZ)
Exposed work cover (amzn.to/3dYlvMH)
Switch (15 amp rated) (amzn.to/39EVtLe)
Duplex receptacle/outlet (amzn.to/2JI3ZhT)
14 gauge power supply cord, with ground (amzn.to/2UZ1QUm)
18” of green 14 gauge wire
6” of colored 14 gauge wire
Clamp connector and red plastic bushing (amzn.to/2JG9mhI)
Grounding screw (amzn.to/39Loipt)
Wire nut (amzn.to/3aG1dWm)
Tools:
Wire strippers (amzn.to/39JtjP9)
Screwdriver(s) with #2 Phillips and flathead tips (amzn.to/34djkkf)
Lineman’s pliers (amzn.to/39Izpzw)
Electrical tape (amzn.to/34dPEmX)
🙏 If you want to support what I do, please consider buying through my Amazon Affiliates link: amzn.to/2JFKjeQ
🙏 Donate: PayPal.Me/glen...
------------------------------------
Follow me on:
🌐 Website: www.glennfraze...
📷 Instagram: / glenn.frazee
🔨 Instructables: www.instructab... 
Хобби
As a retired electrician. I like to watch many of these videos just to see what people are doing out there.
You did an excellent job. The only thing I would recommend is whenever you have stranded wire you are not supposed to wrap it around the screw new code says you must use a spade log
Thanks for the advice, Ray 👍
When installing receptacles I usually make a #12 green stranded wire with lugs on both ends to go between the ground screws on the receptacle and on the box. I use a ring lug at the box end and a spade lug at the receptacle end. It takes more time to do it this way but the connections seem more secure to me.
Glenn, the utter and complete clarity and steady progression were truly helpful.
Thank you.
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
I second what another commenter said ... by far one of the best tutorials I've seen on RUclips in terms of clarity and step by step instructions. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Do slow 😂
This is exactly what I needed but didnt know how to word it. Thank you my guy. Excellent work!
Glad it was helpful!
Just made one. It will reach every corner of my garage. I love it. I mounted it to a piece of plywood. Great for my saw, air compressor and all of my junk that needs power. Thanks
Very nice 👍
One of the best DIY videos I've ever seen, attention to detail with nothing left to one's imagination. I especially liked the soothing background music and not the typical irritating head-banger "music" that seemed to be part of most shop related instructional videos.
Thanks!
Xh keiei vuduei. Ke❤🎉u udueu ieii ueuj. Jeju. U
One of the simplest yet most succinct videos I've ever seen. Awesome!! And placing the most important part at the beginning-how to perfectly ground the entire unit-ingenious.
New subscriber here. This is by far the best tutorial on this issue I have ever seen. Very clear, easy instructions, and well explained. I will be using this when I build my DIY drill/sanding station.
Thanks for the sub, Gregg!
Excellent detail.. would Luv to see a video where u build something like a diy power strip where each outlet is controlled by a separate switch 👍
Maybe one day. Don't have use for one at the moment, though.
Just used this tutorial to make my own- thank you so much for your clear instruction!
Glad it was helpful Mary!
Great video. Gave the list of material and tools, then gave detailed instructions.
Thanks!
Really enjoyed this video. Just what I needed for powering my outdoor mancave. Now, I can install this unit right by the door and keep my extension cord plugged in. i can open the door and turn on my lights, and have a power outlet for my tv as well.
There ya go 👍
Just did this and this video was just perfect....thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. It was very informative, and i really enjoyed it
Glad it was helpful!
Im an IBEW apprentice in my first month. I have some previous experience with the military doing low voltage, simple two wire connection stuff. My JW tasked me with building something similar to this, but with power coming out, after the switch, connected to the other half of the extension cord, with wagos attached to the the power, neutral, and ground, on what would be the female end. It seemed so confusing when he was explaining what i needed to do but watching this video i think i know exactly what to do come Tuesday morning after our New Years break, with a couple extra splices.
Glad it was helpful!
Mr. F, Great timing for me. I was about to buy a mere replacement coupler but now I'm going to adopt your method to restore and enhance my 14/3 extension cord. PS: I especially like the tape wrap over the terminals. I like the durability of a metal case but there's always the chance of getting "bit" if something gets loose inside. Yipe!
Glad to help!
Barry, if properly wired, and plugged into a grounded circuit there's no chance of getting hit. The box and cover are attached to the green grounded wire. If the hot wire somehow comes into contact with the metal box it will trip the breaker.
For added protection use a gfi receptacle.
Years ago as a carpenter apprentice I had a similar setup without the switch. I used a 4” junction box and double duplex receptacles. I was read the riot act by the safety officer where we were working. His reason being the box had knockouts, like the one you used, and he claimed a knockout could get pushed into the box and creat a short circuit. He made me remove it from the job site.
I mean, technically he's right, but sheesh.
@@GlennFrazeeYT He was tough. Once he pulled out a sound level meter to check the decibel reading on our job site table saw!
I was told that drop boxes are not osha approved
@@EMWoodworking Next time I see an OSHA inspector at my house, I'll ask him.
@@GlennFrazeeYT no need to be snarky. I’m just sharing my experience. Have a nice day
I recommend a shop vac for dust control on the other outlet. It might also be a good idea to use an o ringed box and weather tight cover to protect from metal dust from the saw. Great tutorial, I especially liked the 2 switch idea, hadn't thought of that one.
Thanks for the recommendations 👍
Great video, thanks for cutting through all the small talk like other videos!
Thanks!
In the last hour I watched 2 other videos similar to yours. One with a GFIC and the other included a USB. Just proves there many ways to make your own extension cord.
There sure are!
Figured out how to wire in a furnace with this video thanks a lot
An excellent presentation. I am a convert to Wago connectors and find them more reliable than wire nuts. Thank you for great content.
Thanks Ed. To each his own with the connectors - I use wire nuts mostly due to cost
This was a banging video! I can see what i need to do and it was SO well explained!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this. I have so much 14 gauge laying around that has no uses for anymore. This will give it a use and make for a good gift.
Good reuse of materials 👍
Simple, straightforward and well explained.
Great video.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial! I'm goong to be needing to build some portable outlets soon, and this was a great step by step video!
Glad it was helpful! 👍
That was an awesome tutorial, thank you!
WOW! What a great video, simple and straight forward. I'm going to try this, I'm excited! Thanks Glenn!
Thanks Jim!
Clear, informative, and the diagrams were very helpful. Thanks for posting this tutorial!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, exactly what I need for my portable bandsaw. I made a nice platform/holder and table for the bandsaw, but had to use a plastic strip tie for close the trigger. Ugh, not safe. Will put one of these together tomorrow. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for helping me save a burned up extension!
You're welcome Andrew!
This video was very useful. I do have one question though. If you were to use a plastic function box, how would you do it as far as the ground wire is concerned? Would you just use two ground wires from the switch and outlet to the power cord and leave the box out? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!
There's no need to ground a plastic box, you'd just tie all the ground wires together and omit the pigtail going to the box.
@@GlennFrazeeYT.
Thanks! When using a stranded extension cord, would you use spade terminals?
That would be a good idea.
@@GlennFrazeeYT
Thanks so much for your help!
New subscriber!! “I just finished” following this video to do my table saw!!!🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for the sub!
Idky why these types of videos are so calming for me. Subscribed though!
Thanks Brian!
It's the banjo that's playing in the background.
That's why.
You just saved my bacon. Thank you sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much! This worked perfectly on my diy router table
Glad it helped!
While mine wasn't totally similar (used a switch with pilot light and single receptacle, no duplex), this did help quite a bit!
Just a few things, use the hole on the stripper to make your loops, fit on screws much nicer, power cord you used wrong connector on it, that one is for MC cable, power cord when you put the wire on outlet/switch screw, any screw reverse twist of the strands of wire, then when tighten the screw it sucks the wire under the screw tight, you should always use the two screws at top and bottom of outlet plate, it holds the outlet tight at top/middle/bottom when plugging things in and out of them...
Noted. Though I don't know how I'm supposed to use more screws on a receptacle plate than there are holes for...
@@GlennFrazeeYT The holes your missing, take the mounting screws out of device, the two little bolts and nuts in package with cover plate, they go through the plate, then device, with nut on inside hold the device to plate, center screw holes the center of device, top/middle/bottom of device then is fasten tight to plate, there for not breaking the outlet with you pushing plug into outlet
I guess I'm just a fool.....
@@sparky0288 Nah, you're right. I forgot those holes are in there. The one I made doesn't get plugged and unplugged since it's dedicated to one machine, but it's a good suggestion if someone wants to use this like a power strip.
I was looking for electrical project. Great idea! For about $15. Beats any extention cord purchase.
Thanks Andrew!
8:50 its recommended for you to put those two as they bring stability and also preasure relief from pushing the cord in to the receptacle which with time it will bend inwards from the center if it doesn't has them
Come again?
The two screws that go on top and bottom, their there to give extra support, it's recommended to put them because in the action of plugging it in your pushing and with time you'll bend the whole thing inward
@@GlennFrazeeYT if you go to this video at 14:50 you'll see what i mean
ruclips.net/video/EseFbug7cMg/видео.html
This is super handy. Excellent video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great build, but I highly recommend a proper strain relief for the chord as the current mount will likely be the first point of failure, especially if this will be tossed around on a job site!
Noted.
Where was the switch located on the bandsaw. Putting this easy to reach switch might save your life or limb :-)
Great idea, very useful for extra switch on power supply.
Thanks Terry!
I have something similar on a cart I made for my air compressor. Because I didn't want the junction box to stick past the edge of the 2x4s the cart is made from, I went with a single gang box and a single outlet/switch combo unit.
That works too!
Thank you for sharing! This is perfect for what my son and I need for his 4H project. We are modifying it slightly to add a wired light socket. One question, what software did you use to create the wiring diagram? It looks so clean!
Thanks! I did the diagram in Visio.
For a modification to the box you might add a dimmer instead of a switch. Break the connection on the duplex outlet so that each outlet is separated. Connect one outlet to the dimmer and wire the other outlet hot all the time. (Know if your phone with dimmers today and you’re fooling with LED lights today you have to be very careful that the Demirel actually dim the LED like you want. This is not as straightforward as you might think)
Very useful video I will try that with some leftover parts at home.
Thanks Carl!
Thanks for this vid. I subbed. Gave me the confidence to try this out myself. Thanks again!
Good to hear!
I watched a few similar tutorials. This on ie the best
Good job easy to fallow I made one with double outlets
Thanks!
I did something exactly like this today to be used for some wireless broadcasting devices I wanted connected to it.
Nice 👍
Super job!!! I am sooo glad I found this. I want to make the same setup. But instead of a switch & duplex, I want to do 2 duplexes. So my question is using 12/3 should I use 2 duplexes or 2 GFI that have the illuminated light on them? I want to use 20A receptacles. I just need some sound advice on the receptacle choice and the proper wiring. I know it’s typically black to gold & white to silver. I swear I’ve seen some examples on line where this isn’t the case. I won’t be using this in bad weather. Home use only. Thank you so much.
Thanks James! For North America anyway, white (neutral) goes to silver, and your hot wires go to the brass terminal. You'll have to pigtail the hot and neutral if you want two GFCIs in one box.
Thanks Glen, so on the pig-tailing gold to gold & white to white? Is there any advantage to using a couple GFI’s or just stick with the 2 20A receptacles? Thank you again!
If you'll be using it somewhere where it might get wet, GFCI is a good idea.
Thanks Super Glenn!
Give u 1m like. Smart instructions Sir. Thank you.
Thanks!
Very well done I have been making up these in various versions for years. I would have removed the screws that came with the switch and receptacle for other applications like when you lose one or two
Ah least I know where find a couple now! 🙂
@@GlennFrazeeYT perfect spot for safe keeping!
You could use the wago lever nuts and they make it simpler to wire
Sure. I like wire nuts better myself
Excellent tutorial. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
@@GlennFrazeeYT Can you do this same thing with a smart light switch that needs power? I want to use a smart light switch to control smart outlet but it only needs power and doesn't need to be connected to an actual light?
@@AJaytheCEO I don't see why not. Let us know how it works!
@@GlennFrazeeYT thanks I want to try this
@@GlennFrazeeYT Thanks it was a success ruclips.net/video/8v3FVnamGeY/видео.html
Thank you for this vid. Question, why do you need to ground it to the box? I am trying to do something similar but it will connect to a normal plastic box/receptical. Is this no good? Thanks in advance. Isnt the ground from the source sufficient?
I grounded the box to mitigate any stray current that might find its way to the box. Don't want to get zapped if I touch the box with a wire shorted to it.
Great video. Thank you!
My only contention with this design is the clamping down on stranded cable with a screw designed for a soild conductor. I would find a receptacle that uses back pressure plates or use solid conductor pigtails or bootlace ferrules or spade lugs.
Fair point
Great idea I can use this for vacuuming ac units
Nice. The new battery powered vacuums are great for that sort of thing too.
I'm trying to make a second one of these, but with a couple minor changes: I want to use an illuminated switch (so it can be seen in the dark) and I've added an indicator light. When I had the illuminated switch in without the indicator light, my tester still read that there were 30 volts still getting to the outlet and the switch itself didn't light up unless something was plugged in. I then replaced it with a regular switch and added the indicator light. the outlet now says it's only receiving 45 volts when flipped on and the light only turns on when something is plugged in. All the wiring is otherwise the same as in your diagram. I followed it exactly.
My guess is you have a bad contact somewhere, but it's hard to tell without seeing it.
Could you flip the wiring on the extension cord so that the hot wire is connected to the outlet so it’s always live, and then have the switch only live when it’s on? And then run the switch to a light?
Sure
That was an armored cable clamp you used and the red cap is meant to side into the open end of the cut BX metal jacket.
Indeed. Still works.
Thanks! This was super helpful. You wouldn't happen to have a diagram of the double switch with the power going to the outlet instead of switches?
What you see in the build article is what I have for wiring diagrams.
if the power went to the outlet first then the switch wouldn't do anything.
I have alot of electronics under my TV. I'd love to be able to make a multi socketed extension cable for it all, like 30 sockets, where they could all be switched off individually. That way I could leave evertinv plugged in but with the power off.
Not to be a smart aleck, but that's what power strips are for...
@@GlennFrazeeYT That's what I use but I got so much stuff, they all just get tangled and stretched connected to the power strip. I can't get a 3m long power strip. I mean where the sockets either end are 3m apart, not the length of the cable.
@@joshsfox6266 , or can you? smile.amazon.com/Protector-24-outlet-Certified-15-Foot-Extension/dp/B07KXQ985P
I am going to do this for exact reason, portaband. I mostly cut steel, will the cut particles have a chance to short circuit, have you had any issues? Thanks for the tutorial.
Shouldn't be an issue unless the box is right below the blade.
@@GlennFrazeeYT Thank you, ended up putting on side and put duct tape over just in case. Works perfect.
Thanks so much for this. Can this be used for plugging in two lights mounted on a hutch that both can be turned on with that switch? Also could a dimmer be installed instead of the switch?
You're welcome, Brandon. And yes on both accounts.
Is it possible to use a GFCI recepticle as well? Im sittin on several of them.
Yep. Probably a good idea to do so if you're using this outside anyway, and it might also be a code requirement now depending on which version of the NEC your county uses.
really great work, thank you for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
@SuP Cubes0 who's hayden
Really amazes me who would wrap the tape around the outlet or switch and say prevent shorting out against the metal electrical box? IF the outlet and switch are PROPERLY secured to the metal electrical box, what is the potential shorting going to occure? If working with the outlet and switch, what the hell is the power doing on?
It's a step that takes 30 seconds for a bit of extra insurance. But do what you want.
Any chance on how to add a simple off/on switch to just the power supply cord? I'm adding a power supply cord to a project but need a way to turn it off and on without having to unplug it each time.
Maybe an inline rocker switch?
www.amazon.com/dp/B07XK9YXJV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9FP0J8NG38KEBK81KRDG
I made one of these quite a while ago, but I was using a plastic box (and I screwed it to a board as it was stationary, and I used a combination GFCI/AFCI outlet as the first outlet in the circuit). I was having some issues with getting all of the wires run properly, and I noticed that the grounding screw on the outlet was screwing directly to the yoke. I grounded the box, and there was a metal strip running from the box's grounding screw to where the outlet yokes attach. Because I was having issues with the wires, I decided to test to see what would happen if I skipped the ground on the outlets, and a multimeter showed that the ground on all of the outlets were making a circuit without the grounding wire running to each outlet. I did go back and wrestle in the ground wires, but my question is do you really need to have a ground wire running to the outlets if the box itself is grounded?
You need a ground that continues to the panel. The only thing grounding the assembly is the ground wire on the plug, so that needs to be attached to the switch and receptacle. I would recommend not grounding the box in case there's a short circuit, since a metal box would then be live in a shorted state.
Excellent video, thanks
Thank you!
Could i also do this on the end of a 25ft 12/3 extension cord? I assume so.
Certainly.
I cut my extension cord trimming bushes. This gives me a idea for something else.
Hate it when that happens.
The only thing I would add to this, is to tin the bare wires with solder to make the connectors more stable.
I don't recommend tinning wires like that. Too big a short risk of they get brittle.
@@GlennFrazeeYT how would that happen? I would think twinning would help keep the wires from becoming brittle.
@@baire702 See this article: cdn.thomasnet.com/ccp/00142951/263810.pdf
@@GlennFrazeeYTThis is a fascinating article. I mainly use tinning for applications like shown in the video. For these I think tinning is a great option.
thx for sharing, great explanation ... cheers,
Thanks Mark!
Can you make a similar video for 240V outlet?
Do you have a video of how to do this with a plastic box and not grounded to the metal box?
It’s an outdoor application
I do not
excellent video how I could make one to have it outside from the basement of my house to the backyard thanks.
Hi Carlos, you'll want to read a couple books on wiring a house for that.
Love it I will build one
Go for it!
I would use GFCI receptacle with a switch for a safer extension cord to be used in the work shop unless this extension cord ie plugs into an existing GFCI outlet. Material cost approx. $5 more.
GFCIs are about $15 each around me, vs $1 for a standard receptacle.
@@GlennFrazeeYT How much Is your life worth?
Glenn...sure enjoy watching your tutorial videos. I am putting together a galvanize pip lamb for my co-worker. Is it possible to add a off on switch and a UBS connect with power supply? Now if I turn off the off switch will that also cut the power to the usb power box? Thanks!
Sure, adding a USB outlet should follow the same process.
quality video. keep it up
Thanks Nate!
As soon as I saw this video from the picture I said that’s exactly what I m trying to accomplish
Very informative thanks 🙏
You're welcome!
I would like to do the same but for a kitchen island where I have an outlet underneath the island and run the open ended cord to the island's outlet box for crock pot etc...So that I can unplug the cord going to the floor in the even I want to move the island for cleaning. Is this possible?
Yes, but you'll probably have to meet electrical code requirements. And you may require a GFCI, not sure.
Cheaper if you already have an extra 14GA extention cord .... snip a legth off 🤣. I usually un cord (if cord is undamaged) a broken tool if its going to be disposed....i keep these things for stuff like this 😉
Yep, good use for one.
you should have added a Cable Gland with Strain Relief instead of that clamp to the junction box.. That clamp overtime will cut through the cable and short out.
If this were getting banged around, I'd definitely agree with you. But since this is dedicated to a machine in my shop, I'm not too concerned.
Very detailed. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
This was a informative video. However a couple of the connections were a little sloppy.
Sloppy how?
@@GlennFrazeeYT
It looks like you had insulation under the ground to the box. The wires from the power cord all not wrapped around the screw very well. It looks like some of the wires smashed outside the screw. Looks may be deceptive.
I just curious and I don't know much about electrical work but why did you connect one of the ground wires to the box?
The box will conduct electricity if there's a short, so grounding the box keeps it safe.
Would this work with a surge protector? I have a surge protector in my garage to run my lights and a couple tools but its a pain to get to. I figure if I could do something like this I might be able to add a light switch by the door to flip the surge protector on and turn the lights on and when I leave I can kill power to the garage with the flip of a switch.
Sure, that would work just fine. This is essentially the same thing that's in your wall for a normal electrical outlet, just portable and with a switch to control the outlet.
Well made video. I need to check out your other videos. That being said I'd like to point out errors you made. 1st, the connector was wrong. It was a BX connector and should have been a NM connector, or better yet a strain relief connector. 2nd, the stranded wire under the screws is not an approved method and could be a fire Hazzard. 3rd, you may have exceeded the wire fill of the red wire nut you used. Most only allow 4 conductors. 4th, the center hole on the receptacle is not intended to support the receptacle. Even made perfect this device per OSHA would be a violation on any job site. Personal use only OK? Personally I feel these contraptions are death traps. I do commend you for your wiring diagrams. And just a couple notes. The holes on the side of the strippers are for bending loops, the boxes are made so nothing will short out so no tape needed, and twisting the wires is not needed.
Good information, thanks.
I was thinking of this with a cement mixer but want one outlet to be hot all the time and the other one switched.
That's possible too. Just break the connection between the hots/neutrals on the receptacle and wire one directly to the cord
can you make Car Ignition Switch Carbon Fiber Surface Panel as switches for an extension cord?
Not sure what you're talking about
So now do you have 2 15 amp outlets you can plug into this? Like a normal 110 outlet? Or is it less since you’re pulling from 1 110 15 amp plug?
You're limited to 15 amps total since it's just a 15-amp plug. But otherwise it acts like any other 15-amp outlet in your house. You could conceivably wire this up with a 12ga cord and a 20-amp plug and have a max of 20 amps, but most homes don't have 20-amp receptacles wired in, even on 20-amp circuits.
@@GlennFrazeeYT so if you’re using a “15 amp” tool like a table saw, you should use something like a light with it instead of another “15 amp” tool, right? I’ve seen people do this and put a table saw AND shop vac on the same line but wondering if it’s smart.
@Trey Football, it would be no different than if you plugged them both into receptacles on the same circuit. If they draw more than 15 amps combined for too long, your breaker should pop. There's a lot more to this than I can cover in a comment, so I'd recommend reading some articles online.
Could you use a GFCI outlet instead? So when you plug it in somewhere it would add GFCI?
Sure. No reason that wouldn't work.
@@GlennFrazeeYT .... it wont work if the house outlet is already a GFCI.
The comment was about adding a GFCI where there already isn't one.
@@GlennFrazeeYT .... yes, but my point was more about having 2 GFCIs together won't work so you it's not totally compatible in that case. The reality is if you have a place to plug this in and you need a GFCI then one should be installed in the wall to bring it up to code first.
I live in a country where grounding plugs are next to non existent.. so my question is.. why do you need to plug a ground wire into the junction box when you already have ground from the cable to the outlet?
Since the junction box is metal (i.e., conductive), you want a path for any stray current in the box itself to back to the house wiring instead of passing through you should you touch the box with current running through it.
Good idea, but...
There is more to attaching wires to the switch and duplex than "Tighten them down".
Wires inside wire nuts should be checked for firm attachment, especially stranded wires.
Should have used a centered 1/2" K.O. to supply power. this would reduce kinking of cord over the extended life of tool. Many will not permanently mount box.
Other than that...good job. Thanks.
👍