The Ultimate $150 Shop Accessory - ALPHA CORD
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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When I've made those I put a rectangular piece of plywood on the back of the box, saves the metal box from clanking on the floor, and makes the box more stable.
Cheers from Tokyo!
And "ears" up the side for when you inevitably drag it face down.
I always use a 2x6 12” long, 30 years and still going!
Make the plywood big enough to step on too.
I'd probably use one of those "rubber" dips on the back of the box just to avaoid scratching anything with the metallic box.
I have found before assembly clean and scuff the box and cover. (Outside Only) then coat with rubberized coating to reduce chance of shock. Your idea of putting the wood on the bottom is a great idea.
Electrician here. We call your "slugs" knockouts. Your grounding wire for your j-box, we call those stingers. The cord you have there, we call it s/o cord. I also save the metal tabs i cut off of devices and use them as washers. Always carry a few in my pouch. Im sure somebody has mentioned it, but your strain relief, (sometimes we call them kellums grips), has a lock nut on it, that goes inside the box. The plastic cap that screws onto the threads is a called bushing. Some guys may call some or all of these things by different names but this is just what I was taught.
I’m an electrician also, we call those “green wires” grounding pigtails or green pigtails here. There’s a million different names for the same thing in this industry
@@bigguyprepper Yessir.
ROFL.. He does have his lockring outside the box. LOL. Yeah.. Hold your industrial cord to the box with a 10 cent plastic bushing.. It'll last a long time. NOT...
You and the John’s guy are correct and I agree with everything. Cheers from the ibew local 1531. (If you’re union anyway)
@@charlesbirchett7059
Local 527 over here, brother.
Cody. The metal nut on the strain reliever should be on the inside of the box and then the insulater goes next. Frank
Also don't use metal boxes with knockouts for extension cords. The "slugs" can be bent inward and make contact. Another Frank...
@@frank-pl8vn lol at the “another Frank” comment.
Also, if you use the correct end of the cable you won't have to cross the wires inside the plug end.
Yeah, good job. Only problem is he has the plastic bushing on the inside threads holding it together instead of the metal lock nut. That won't last long, it has to fixed. Also to use the push insert option on the back of the outlets will eventually fail and lose a good contact. The springs weaken from the heat, vibration, etc. Depending on the amount of use the cord gets, it will determine the time it has before failure. Always make the hook and wrap it around the lug.
Can we get a comment from someone named Beans here please.
Wranglerstar has the bravery to upload these electrical vids knowing that the internet electrician guild will swarm his comment sections. The man has no fear.
views are views
haha i was one of them .hahahahahahahah I recomended that he put a drying plug on the end and wire the 2 oulets to the separate phases, THEN it will truly be a beast. . and pump out 7200 watts total 3600 watt per outlet, the only weak link would be the 20 amp outlet, but i feel confident it would work just because the 10awg is wired directly to it so the the path from the 10awg to the outlet is likley less than an half of inch with very little resistance. . . would be a interesting test to pump 30 amps thru it and see how a 20 amp outlet fairs wired that way
@@mikeriverajr4447 Yeah I was gonna mention what you said, being an electrician I just couldn't help myself. The plugs and the male cord end he's using are way underrated for that gauge of a cord. Plus as everyone else has mentioned, he's got his lock-ring on the outside of the box when it should be on the inside. And lastly, the box he's using is not really correct. Any electrical box with knockouts is supposed to be affixed to a wall, per code. They make pendant cord boxes that have a single threaded hole on the top specifically for a cord strain reliever. One reason why you don't want a box with knockouts in this situation is because if he were to grip onto that box and try to plug something in, he could potentially push in a knockout with his finger or thumb, and that knockout tab could come in contact with a side screw on the back of the outlets. (also why you should wrap tape around the back of an outlet device after wiring it).
@@420JackG commercially this still is atleast at all the H-E-Bs and most super that need drop cords
That's the plan, Stan!
10 minutes of “work” = a lifetime of use.
Talk about an investment. I’m gunna give this a shot.
And made already 3 for himself?
Maybe he should put a tracker on his nice stuff? xD
If you have 20 amp outlets upgrade the plug and the ends to 20 amp. A 10/3 cable is good for 20+ amp. Also upgrade the outlet box to aluminum outdoor outlet box so it can be good in wet locations. May also want to use GFI outlets if you will be using outside.
This exact list of items on Amazon prime comes to $199.80, except for the small lengths of household wire.
@@Ca_Tule_Ninja Explain
I had a set up exactly like that in the mid 90's on a job site. OSHA made a visit and fined our company $500.00 because the box was made of metal with knockouts. He said it was possible for someone to poke a screw driver or similar object onto a knockout, pushing it in and exposing hot wires which could shock someone or start a fire. I argued that if a screw driver entered the knockout, it would short out between the box and the hot wire, causing the circuit breaker to trip (as it is designed to do). He didn't budge and made us pay the fine.
LOL OHSA Back in 1970 I was working in a printing company and OHSA came in and did an inspection, we failed, Boss told the inspector to pass us and never comeback or else! Lol never saw OHSA after that, I worked there over 35 years.
"Friends, we have run into a bit of a snag because I uh... because I don't plan things out very well." Love that moment of honesty!
Just a helpful tip. Cables have an “end” the way the wires are twisted. One end will have the wires orientated for the male cord cape and the other will be set up for the female. This prevents you having to twist the wires around trying to squeeze them in the cord cap.
GTFO no way. That explains why some of mine look like they are braided under there.
it is amazing how few people know this
@@patrickderegt2582 I know a lot of appreciates don’t know this. One of my favourite parts of my job is passing knowledge to someone that is interested in learning.
thats awesome, thanks. im super amateur and always wondered why i had to redirect the wire sometimes!
One of the first things one of my journeyman showed me when I got in the trade. Blew my mind haha
Pro tip: If you had turned the cord around end-for-end, the three 3 conductors on the male end would have gone straight into the screw holes on the plug without crossing over one another.
In the rock-n-roll audio world, you just built what we call a "quad box". Never can have enough of 'em. :-)
"It's real simple, just follow the rules"
...
"as a professional home owner, we don't always go about following the rules..."
It's like unwrapping comedy gold in every episode!
Was going to say this but knew someone else has. Took a scroll and here you are! 😁 but he’s right!
I'm here to read all the angry electrician comments , lol
only problem IMO is using the insulator as a nut, and the jam nut is outside the box. Everything else is 100
@@RandyRandersonthefamous I would use outdoor box instead of that steal box. Would not want to use that outside or in wet area. Also with 10/3 Wire why use 15 amp outlets. Why not 20 Amp? Most new outlets use stab in connectors instead of having to use wrap around screw.
@@allegannews9256 Very good improvement, you could even use a rain proof outlet cover since it's using standard electrical hardware. 20A is also good. Not much more and it will be under slightly less load over its life running mostly 15A appliances.
I haven't seen anyone mentioning 2 ground wires under one grounding screw. Not allowed unless they have crimped-on lugs.
My father has had a cord just like this since I was kid. Whenever we did major projects or renovations that cord always came out!
The reason grandpa saved those "washers" was to use as spacers when needed to make outlets flush with walls when boxes were recessed too much in a wall!
That comment got me to smile from two points of view: it's easy to laugh at excessive frugality, but it's even easier to laugh at those who don't fully understand it!
@@pocket83squared , That is an old electrician's hack I was taught when I first entered the business!
Yup, i was happy to see this comment
We used to coil some wire around a screw driver to make our own. I've gotten used to just cutting the relevant length from a rawl plug
not going to lie; it hurt to see him disregard them like that. Theres ALWAYS a situation 5 years down the road where that one thing you never thought you could use would be the perfect solution
When I was a kid my dad had a professionally home crafted extension cord almost exactly like that except it was about only 10 or 12 feet long.
I would see that thing and think how it was the most hideous extension cord and just remind me how poor we were.😂 Guess what, I’m 44 and still looking at it and still reminded, just how being *frugal is a *necessity for things to come. Thanks Dad!
Love this one, Wranglestar.👍
Some years ago I grabbed a 300ft spool of 3-10 from the dumpo. I did the math in the store, to buy 3 100ft 10 gauge extension cords I had saved $100 building my own. All my 13-15 amp tools spin right up and I do not trip the breaker. Wich is great when your working on a customers house and the only outlet outside trips, also known as a wasted day if you don’t keep a generator with you. Your right, it wraps up with little trouble on the cold days as well. I bind mine with paracord to keep it neat and tight. I’ve gotten many jobs just on how I keep my gear in line. Another great tutorial, thank you.
It just needs a built in LED light, a hook, rubber feet, blue tooth speaker, and a remotely operated kill switch for when the wife’s looking for you.
My dad made a few like this out of wire spools. He also included a light socket. Which I put my finger in when feeling about for a light switch in the loft space. 240V bites hard.
disclaimer: im an electrician and not judging you for not knowing. i have learned much from you and here is my chance to give a little back.
the cable is called SO or SJO depending on the jacket thickness. the nut for the cable stress retainer goes inside the box and then the bushing goes on after that (not really needed for this but wont hurt). also your grand dad was correct, those are washers and are intended to help stand the receptacle off the box you are screwing to for fit and finish. the ground screw should only have one wire under it (technically ) not sure what you are trying to accomplish by doing it that way because you still have to wire nut to the ground in the cable. last, although nothing is incorrect with the wire stabbed and compressed into the receptacle; the hook method (when done correctly) holds a stronger connection. just food for thought. good work!
I'm a HVAC electrician, been watching his channel for years. I'm pretty sure he does stuff like this on purpose to have fun with all the sparkeys in the comment section. He calls them all pre madanas and stuff lol
Since you are en electrician, I have a question: My issue with this cable is, that the box for the receptacles has a bunch of holes in it- so the internals are not protected from the environment (dust, moisture, sand, etc). If the box would be sealed, I would love this cable. Any suggestions on a sealed alternative?
@@yxcvmk Just make sure your cable is SO or THWN or THWN-2 & get a weatherproof outdoor box (they come with seals).
You could pay extra for the blast-proof or plain aluminum ones, or go to the cheapest option: plastic. (As long as they're water-tight they should say "suitable for wet locations" somewhere... usually inside.) You can also get a clear cover for the outside so it can be outdoors and get rained on (still wouldn't risk dropping it in a deep puddle, tho.)
Your reaction to discovering the removable bit in the strain reliever was awesome! Finding surprises in design like that only delight real guys like us! I know the "fizz" well myself. A good tool, a well made device, etc make us feel good about life.
I have built boxes like this for 20 years. They are extremely handy. And yes use a heavy gauge wire. It will last a life time. Great content as always.
11:26 made me so happy. I know the feeling of being so close to the end of a project and the thought of having to do one more thing kills the momentum. Here on the east coast, that's when projects get put on hold "til tomorrow".
Professional industrial electrician here. Couple points. That cord is commonly referred to as S O cord. And that type of strain relief is really intended to be used with heat shrink to finalize the connection and prevent the grab from coming open over time with lots of use. And finally if you are planning to use something like that for doing 240, keep in mind amperage limitations. 10 gauge wire (usually written as 10 AWG which is American Wire Gauge) is only rated to 30 amps in a cable like that. For use as a general extension cord for power tools and the like a larger cord like that is generally agreed to be safer because it is no longer the weak link for failure but it can subject the receptacle feeding it to higher potential loads than they normally see. But that’s why we have circuit breakers.
I have 5 cords like this. I've built them over time. Starting about 30 years ago. I was in business and needed a cord that had more outlets on the end, and was tired of the flimsy construction of available cords. Built my own, had plenty of capacity, easy to repair when needed, and I know what I am dealing with every time I use them.
As someone with almost 18 years in the electrical industry, I would not recommend using the steel junction box with pre-punched knock-outs. Those knockouts can easily be pushed into the box as the cord is used and moved around, presenting a substantial shock hazard.
Best alternative is a premade cord splitter; you can buy them for $5-20 if you are plugging the extension cord into a GFCI outlet, or for $20-30 you can buy one with built in GFCI protection. If you still want to make one, I would recommend buying a rubber cord drop box, something like an Ericson 6000. If you still want to do a small metal junction box, at least do an aluminum weather-proof "bell" box, similar to a Pass and Seymour WPB332.
Also. If the cord gets damaged and the neutral wire gets broken, the GFCI will not trip if you get a ground fault. Commercially made GFCI cords are made so the cord can't be energized if the neutral is open.
The cord is known as S/O cord. It stands for Seoprene or type-SOOW or some similar variant. Most standard extension cords are either 16 awg conductors or 14. If you spend some more money and get the 12 awg cords, they will serve you well for almost all needs. The "slugs" are known as K/O's. Or just knock outs lol last bit of pro advice, never depend on tension connections...put a hook in that wire and wrap it around the screw. That is THE best way to do it. ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTIONS ARE TIGHT.. And yes that's what the hole on the strippers is for.
Was waiting for someone to tell him 10 awg was absurdly overkill
I like that strain relief attachment. I've got quad boxes like this that I built 25 years ago that withstood a decade of touring with a band. I used Hubbell hospital grade outlets and they have held up remarkably well after significant abuse.
"Tighten that jam nut". It's a locknut that you put on the wrong side. You're using the plastic bushing to hold onto the box instead of the steel locknut. 3 wires under a ground screw that is rated for 1 wire. Electrical is easy if you have no clue what you are doing wrong.
Hopefully he'll read through these comments and make another video fixing this cord!!
Man a guy can learn more from the comments than the original video.
Cody good on you for getting off the porch and getting it done. A good plan executed well today is better than a perfect plan tomorrow.
Get that lock nut inside of that box right now!!!😂
ha caught that too!
yup, he locked it in place with a thread cover bushing. lol
That plastic bushing won’t hold much weight. He’s gonna regret that when he picks up that cord and the box falls off the wire. If you gonna spend all that money on a nice restraint you might as well install it correctly!!!
I'm sure he'll fix it after seeing these comments 🤣😂
I am old so I have been doing this for years. That said, the only differences between yours and my extension cords are.
1. I always use white outlets because they are easier to find in the dark.
2. I will tin the wires on the cord before I hook them up to the outlets.
3. My trick to keep the wires going to the correct terminals is...
BLACK---hot (burned brass)
WHITE ( Ice- cold silver)
GREEN (Grass- ground)
Keep these videos coming. They are very informative. Thanks
"Black to gold" , I always remember it as Black to Brass.
Save your a**
I always remembered it as “hot little slots”. I was 16 yrs old when I started electrical construction class, so you can tell where my mind was.
I always just remember it, I don't need a saying to remind me. After how many outlets does a person have to wire, while reminding themselves "black to gold" or whatever saying? Now, I know he just knows, and so do you and if you're teaching someone, it's a good idea. But after, like 3 outlets, it's committed to memory I hope. lol
Black to brass, save your a**
Black to Brass, Neutral to Nickel
I used to work in a data center for over 12+ yrs. We used to call those black electric cords "whips" when we ordered them for the electricians to come and run them. They would run them from huge PDU's (power distribution unit) to hang over a cabinet and then we would plug them into RPDU's which are "racked" power distribution units. They basically look like huge power strips. Anyone ever work in a data center knows what I am talking about. Then we would plug equipment into the RPDUs like servers, switches, and the like. Great video Mr. W.
My grandfather made one similar to that years ago, he's since past but I still use that cord today. It's weird how something so insignificant can be such a prized possession!
Busted out the Osbourne 940! Watching your videos is why I bought one!
We would typically not use a box with knock-outs for a portable cord. These setups usually get banged around a lot an the KOs can get bent in or broken out causing a hazard. A weatherproof cast aluminum box would be a better choice. This may also be an OSHA issue, but I’m not positive.
Thanks for that comment - now I have a search term to track down a decent box. I built one of these long ago but haven't been happy with it. The only boxes I could find at the home stores here are intended to be behind walls. Sharp edges, covered in holes and knock outs. I wanted something I could use around jobsites but figured the open style boxes would fill with sawdust and once moisture got in there I'd have a problem
You gotta remove all the knockouts for ventilation. Can't be having those things getting too hot.
I mean, I think OSHA also mandates that you can't make your own extension cord for a job site.
@@jethro9341 If they remove the knockouts, how is it going to float when someone uses it in the pool?
@@jim.h good point
Thank you sir wranglerstar I’ve often thought about this idea and was unsure of how to do it I really appreciate the information and knowledge she put into this video. I’m not a professional homeowner I’m just a regular tree guy but I do have a shipping container with a generator and I need an extension cord like the one that you build here look forward to making my own build thank you. God bless you and your family in the viewers. Joe from California.
Wish you would have shown how to hook the wires from the cable to the box, after you threaded it through the strain relief gizmo.
That was the main part, lol
@Castleknight.......I was just about to say the same thing re hooking the wire......it only takes a second and ensures a better grip on the screw v.s. a straight piece. The difference in conduction area is also highly increased that way. I've done this on every connection I've ever done.
He's trying to keep the video family friendly!
Appreciate diy video but oops need revision to actually the show heavy cable lead connection detail inside the box.
My guess is with ring terminals. It would be tough to get number 10 wrapped around the screws lol.
I have the same cord, I got everything from my brother when he passed and there was the same cord. I agree the best shop cord ever made...have a great weekend.
The ten gauge wire is overkill. The circuit the extension cord will be plugged into is on a 20 amp breaker or less and is probably wired with 14 gauge wire. The outlet the cord is plugged into is rated at 20 amps or less. Twelve gauge copper wire will provide more flexibility with less weight and lower cost and is perfectly acceptable for the task.
Was thinking same thing, but I ain't no ⚡sparky⚡
My Hobart welder is recommended to be used with a 10 ga ext. cord if over a certain length.
He explained that at the beginning that 12ga is plenty. 10 is more versatile. And nobody uses 14gage for receptacles. Perhaps 14 gage for a lighting circuit. Wall outlets are typically 12gage.
Yes 10/3 is 30 amp. If you are going long distance could see using it for 15 amp service but at this length 12/3 with 20 amp plug and outlet would be ok. Would also upgrade to aluminum outdoor box and consider using GFI if I was using it outdoors or on cement floors.
@@allegannews9256 Anytime you are using an extension cord, per OSHA, it is required to be plugged into a GFI protected device, hence the down stream receptacles would be GFI protected. Reason the cord is to be GFI protected from the plug end is in case the cord is damaged it will trip GFI. Otherwise a damaged cord in a wet location would allow you to get an electrical shock.
I've done that with a 12 guage wire, so it was more flexible, but still sturdy. It's a good idea to add a flat bar with a hole or hook on the end to the back of it. Helps when removing tight plugs, and hanging the socket end on a nail or branch or something.
Starts out by saying "follow the rules". 1 minute later, sometimes we don't follow the rules!🤣🤣🤣
If you know the rules you can break the rules. 😆
Speaking of being frugal...my wife's grandfather (US Army in WWII, Korea, and Vietnam) used to slightly unscrew lightbulbs in his shop and the walkway heading out to his shop so that when the switch was flipped he'd have to screw the bulbs in all the way to light the way. He determined he was able to save a bulb every few years by the few seconds it took him to screw it in after he had turned the switch on!
Professional homeowners are known to give the screw driver a little tap tap when necessary 🙈
Didn't knew you also watch his vids.
Tap tap tappy
just like any tradesman does when the right tool is in the truck that's 30 feet away or more.
Everything is a hammer when you need it to be. Flatheads are chisels/ prybars and don't let the guy at the warranty counter tell you otherwise.
Nandito ka din? Hahaha
goodday Cody. Three small point. When attaching the wires to the duplex plug you did the right thing and attached it to the screw but mentioned you can also plug the wire. It should be stressed for best results you should always screw it on. To the right corner of the attachment screw there is a small hole. You can insert your bare wire end in it and than curl your wire around the screw. Finally a suggestion: Attach a tension reliever (similar to the one you attached to the box except it has a loop not a screw) to your male end a foot or two from the end. screw in a hook to the wall next to the power plug. By hanging the tension reliever to it you won't accidently unplug your cord.
Did something change? That has always been 10/2 wire - you dont count the ground. 10/3 would also have a red wire.
Agree.
Not with SO cord, the ground is counted in the conductor designation with SO. With Romex, DLO, tray cable, etc you don’t count the ground but with service cord you do.
It's SO cord, 10/3 because it has an insulated ground. In Romex you would be correct 10/3 would have black, red, white and an uninsulated ground.
I remember it as Brass is Black, Chrome is Common, Green is Ground. great video!
Plus I remember my grandfather having one of those cords! Homemade is always the best! Because when you build it for yourself, you put the time in it to make it LAST!!
About 5 years ago i built something similar, but instead of a 120v outlet only, i wanted one i could use for 240v and 120v, so i used 8/4 wire and combined 2 boxes back to back with one side having the 240v plug for my welder and the other side had 2 separate 120v outlets, so the load is split evenly between the red circuit and black circuit. It also shares the same 240v plug as our backup generator, so we can have it 50ft away. I use it a lot for portable welding with the generator, because working with the generator noise so close really gets to you over time along with the gas fumes.
Almost like the ones I make for my shop, but I do a custom loom so I can add air line, so my outlet has 110, 240 and air.
Can you send me pictures of this it sounds incredible
Agreed I would like to see that
That sounds amazing!
I am a working musician, playing the bass and singing for making a living. I really know what a good extention cord is worth. Good cables, let it be for electricity, instrument cable, multicore (for live music, foh), you name it, are the guarantee for your electrical and electronic devices to work proper and to last longer. In most cases it is the power adaptor of an electrical device that fails, and a good, stable connection seems to help to give this items a longer live.
I buy my cables at a family owned and run electrician company, and also only use the best connectors you can get. Then I screw them together or solder them real good, what I like a lot for music applications.
If you buy cheap in cables, you not only will buy twice, but maybe ruin your power tools and machines.
Looks good my friend, however, your lock nut "jam nut" goes on the inside of the box to hold the strain relief connector and the plastic bushing on top of that to protect the wire.
Dang! back to the shop,
@@wranglerstar Lol! Not a bad place to be, I'd love to have a shop like yours! Goals!
I made a welding version of this (with thicker cable, of course). Very handy when you want your welder just beyond where your cord reaches. Nice work!
I'm considering looking to work for an electrician as a helper to gain some knowledge and decide if I want to commit to the schooling. I know you aren't one but even still, I enjoy watching you work. Thanks!
One of the best decisions I ever made was to go into electrical. Never out of work, if your willing to work hard. Good luck.
Do it. You won't regret it. In my state the average age for electricians over 50. And I swear, every couple of months, more and more people retire, but we rarely get new people.
I think going into the trades vs. going to college and then getting a corporate cubicle job is the way to go. If I had it to do over again, I think I would do that.
@@Castleknight I've already got a 2 year business degree and an accounting job...but I'm young enough to do it over again lol. Got my degree pre highschool graduation at 18. I had this big success story planned out but the accounting is duller than watching paint dry. Thinking on taking the business knowledge, studying a trade, and running my own business after I get some experience.
I've have one that I made up about 40 years ago and its still working. I put metal stick tape that Hvac guys use on the inside to cover all the holes to keep dirt out. Keep up the good video's, I especially enjoy your humor.
He's not allowed to talk about his pew pew collection in RUclips, but the advertisement before this video was for a magazine Speed Loader 🤣🤣🤣
I recommend you look into a spider box, as a former construction manager I'm sure you know what it is but for others. Its a .. "a portable power distribution centers that are designed to be an economical way to distribute electrical power using a 250 VAC". Allows you to put an higher amp plug and then have a box that you can put anywhere (with a long cord) that can provide the outlets you need.
The “3” in 10/3 actually refers to the amount of insulated conductors in the cable, not how many there are.
Your correct waited for someone to mention that
That's what suckered me into watching the video. Tag should've been 10/2, and the jam nut should be on the inside
Regardless, it's still a great idea.
@@dougieonthemove4658 10/3 was the right tag, he just explained what it meant the wrong way. 10/3 can also have 4 wires with 3 of them insulated and one bare, or just 3 insulated wires like the one he used had.
10/2 Two conductors carrying load (hot + neutral) + ground
10/3 Three conductors carrying load (hot L1 + hot L2 + neutral) + ground
10/4 Four conductors carrying load (L1,L2,L3 + neutral + ground for 3-phase power.
@@guytech7310 or for a three-way switch
My dad and I did something similar to that. We had a 40 by 80 shop (rented) and the shop plugs were inadequate for our power needs (120v 15a) so we nade our own power distribution cart. We went from the welder plug (220v 30a) to a 100ft 4 wire (i believe) 10ga cord similar style as in the video, then to our "auxiliary" breaker box. Where we tied our 220v stick welder to and pulled one "leg" off to make a 120v 30amp circuit with a 4 plug outlet box. The power distribution cart carried the welder, its 50ft leads, had a hook to roll up the 100ft power cable, 4way 120v box for grinder and other power tools, another hook to carry a couple of "el cheapo" extention cords, a few angle grinders. The only issue we had with it is we should of got better caster wheels to hold the weight (harbor freight).
Now, put in an LED, so you know by sight that it's powered I love having light up cord ends. You know in a second whether you have a popped breaker or if it just isn't plugged in
I got a cheap led off of Amazon rated at 5v which is what the USB run off of and pluged it in to one of the USB slots. I have a welder I use all the time thats 220. I made a 3 gang box 220, 110, 110 with 2 usb's. But I siliconed the entire thing when done just in case of moisture. I live near the texas coast
@@jontruax1 LED with a 100K resistor will work.
I put a gfi on mine safer and has an led.
I made one like this but one of the receptacles had integrated power LED and that is how we knew it had power.
Thanks for the detail. I made one like that 40 years ago. I have been meaning to update the end with a quad box. No you gave me the push I needed.
The lociknut is to be on the inside of the box to secure the fitting. the plastic is just a bushing to protect the cables from chaffing,
Good point
I would use outdoor box instead of Steal so I could use this in wet areas.
i used to find the old heavy duty power strips that have 3x duplex outlets, and i would go out of my way to find the ones with 14awg cord, i'd use them until they wore out, then replace the receps inside of the strip with good quality duplex receps and record the unit with 10 or 14awg 3 conductor cable to a good heavy duty end, and i had i think it was 6 rare earth magnets glued to the back of the metal body so i could stick it to my toolbox, or to the side of my truck when i was working out of it off of an inverter or small genset, great idea, and super handy for the shop or even camping if you run power for charging phones, or a small fridge, camp lighting (work lights) etc etc etc, great vid and well thought out, stay safe out there brother
A video series on “The Fizz” change my mind
“Top 10 Fizz Producers”
“How to quantify the fizz”
His excitement when he gets the fizz is awesome.
I'm a professional contractor and you are spot on about extention cords. A heavier cord is easier on you tools also.
I tin my ends on stranded or you can put on a crimp sleeve that gives the screw something to bite into vs just squishing the strands. Bob
There is also copper tape, available at damn near all electric supply houses. We use it for large temp S/O cords that end up getting shifted from site to site. Helps keep the fraying down to fit into lugs easier with repeatability.
Tinning stranded wiring is a bad idea because it makes the end brittle cause it to snap where the solder ends. If you want to a better grip, crimp ferrules on the ends.
@@guytech7310 I use crimp on wire ferrules on all stranded connections 10 AWG or less. Only because that is largest my crimper can do. It helps keep all strands together
Thank you for this! As a pastor who is getting his Homestead ready for retiring somewhere down the road but, living there before then, this looks like some thing that I want to have in my repertoire for my professional home ownership!
Keeping you and your family in our prayers.
The cord is called "SO" cord, the "Slugs are called "Knock Outs" or "KO's", The "Strain Reliver" is a "CGB" connector with strain relief, the lock nut is supposed to go on the inside of the box the plastic "Insulating Bushing" is screwed on overtop of that to protect wire, you can "pig tail" your grounds that way you do not need to put 2 under the ground screw also it is good practice to do that with the receptacles that way if the one feeding the other were to go bad you wouldn't lose both receptacles, lastly to utilize the ampacity of the 10 wire you bought you should have put 20 amp receptacles in the box. with the ones you have you are only rated for 15 amps
Right on.
Good words. Correct me if I'm wrong if he used 20 amp receptacles wouldn't he need to use a 20 amp plug which would limit where he can plug it into?
@@abdulelkhatib2674 this is correct. I wasnt thinking about ease of access
@@abdulelkhatib2674 good thought
@@johnk2075Thanks
Pro tip for you, Cody. When you go to plug it in and test it the first time, do it with just one hand. Do NOT do it the way you did, with one hand on the metal box as you plug it in. If you made a mistake anywhere in assembling it that box could be live. I'd also strongly recommend that one of the outlets be GFCI and upstream of the other one. This way, you're still protected if you plug it into a non-GCI outlet. Use hospital-grade (or better) receptacles. They're better quality and will work better in the long term for just a few bucks more. Finally, when looking at the box cover with the outlets installed, having one "upside down" with respect to the other means anything polarized that you plug in can be done no matter which way the box is sitting, without having to twist cords and plugs around. Oh, and using a weatherproof box eliminates the danger of a knockout being driven into the box by accident.
The other plus of reversing the orientation of one of the receptacles is that you can fit two large wall-wart transformers which would not fit side-by-side.
It is called SOW cable (edited for earlier typo). This video came about 15 min too late. I JUST ordered a 12/3 100' USA made extension cord and some Leviton plugs to make a custom length heavy duty (15 amp) extension cord.
@@El_Guapo74 And Wire & Cable your way has great prices also and reasonable shipping in sizes HD or Lowes may not carry. All in custom lengths too.
12/3 will allow to you run 20amps per circuit with 12/3 you can do a split phase (wire hot to each receptacle and common nuetral & ground, and use a 240VAC plug.
Wow! You totally confirmed and shot down my magnet idea in the span of about 30 seconds! No fat here! Just good information. Thanks for sharing.
How come you didn’t show hooking up the no 10 wires to the receptacle
to big of a wire 😂
@@anthonymilanese8372 Can confirm. I've cussed at enough #10's in my day to ever expect someone to show them connecting #10 inside of an outlet LOL!
Especially the extra fine conductors in S/O cord.
I did this for working around the shop and in the yard. Only critique I would say is I used a bell box with a metal in use cover (weather resistant).
Be sure to buy high quality outlets, not the “contractor grade”. Also the numbers which specify the wire size (10, 12, 14) are known as wire gauge.
I made an extension cord like that for my shop but I used 220 instead of 110 volts. It plugs into a 220 volt outlet I have at the double doors leading to the driveway. On the working end I have two double 110 plugs like yours and I have a 220 plug as well. One side of the 220 lead connects to one 110 outlet and the other side of the 220 lead connects to the other 110 outlet. This allows me to take my welding machine out to the driveway and work on vehicles or things on trailers without needing to take it off the trailer and drag it into the shop. Having 110 outlets allows using 110 tools and lights all from the working end of the extension cord.
Wonderful thing to have around the job site, the one my dad built years ago has two boxes on the end about 5 feet apart. Also a useful way we store it is in a 5 gallon bucket, drill a hole in the side near the bottom and feed the male end through. Coil the cord up in the bucket and it never gets tangled and is super easy to pack around.
Built two of them back in 2000. They have battle scares but still work as good as new. I made them with three prong 220v plugs, then made adapters to adapt it to 120v plugs.
thanks
You’re welcome.
After watching this and wanting to build my own. I went to work and talked with Maintenance and they where tossing away a few old ones due to replacing them all. I now have a 50ft industrial Alpha Cord. I am glad to finally have a good decent cord finally!
Wranglerstar with the good advice once again!
The holes are called “knock outs”
Brilliant my friend brilliant. This would be perfect! No more dual cords with dual adapters, just one cord with all the plugs you need. Definitely going to give this a shot!
Would an outdoor box with cover be better. This way it can be used in not so great weather?
Definitely
An east coast guy would do it that way.
And this one has :D
waterproof boxes tend to be less resilient to getting thrown onto concrete and there really is no point as normal 15 amp plugs aren't waterproof anyways
On cordage there is a "right" and "wrong" end for the plug. You will see that one end of the wire will spread properly into the plug with no wires crossing. The "wrong" end will have crossed wires which can be difficult to get inside the plug shell, especially with large wire like #10. Another way to think of it is one end will have the white on the left and the black on the right with the green on the top. The other end will be reversed.
Man I am excited for this. Break out the electrical tools!
😆😆
Really nice cord I'd just add two things as a former electrical professional. One, you mentioned you could plug your 240 loads into it like a welder but hopefully you know that's not accurate since you only ran one leg to it so it's a 120 outlet. Second, love the 10ga wire on the extension cord but the wires you're using to connect the sockets/sides of the outlet together are 12ga so your electrical capacity on the connected outlet is limited by the 12ga wire. SO you should probably mark which is which so that you don't accidentally plug a 20amp load (like a home gamer welder) into the wrong side of the outlet and end up with an electrical fire.
Tomorrow’s video: “Fixing My NEW Extension Chord”. Lol
i hope he gets that lock nut put on right. Be a shame to see him yank the cord out because that little plastic nut breaks or gets loose. Im not gonna talk about all of them knock outs that can get banged on and pushed in to the hot side of the plugs,,,,,
Warren , what should have done? Different style box with only 1 knockout?
@@MyFirstRUclipsHandle wrap the outlets in electrical tape
@@warrenmichael918 Regarding the knock-outs, I hadn't thought of that.... good point !
@@douglascroghan9657 electrical tape is what is done in most cases but the knockouts are fairly sturdy. Homeowners and Non professional tradesmen most likely wouldnt use this enough to bang it all to heck and even worry about damage. A good option is the outdoor boxes with the screw in knockout plugs, the ones that usually come with the deep watertight covers.
Omg!! This is the best video on here!!! Just outstanding.. thank you….
Can you do a review on your nicks boots after 5 years?i love to know how they did/doing
I've made a few of these in the past. Like the idea of using a USB outlet. Couple other recommendations... For the plug, I like to use 90 degree ones with such heavy cable. I recommend use a screw lug type box, like a sigma 14352 for example. I also bolt on a large magnet to the back so I can stick it to metal cabinet, engine bays, etc. Welding ground magnets work nice and have a metal ring so the magnet doesn't get chipped/broken. Harbor freight has a cheap one. The last box I built I used a 3 gang box and put a lighted light switch in the extra gang so I could turn it off easily instead of unplugging everything. Lastly, I like to install a small panel mount 120v AC light on the faceplate so its easy to tell if it is powered (if not doing the lighted light switch method).
East Coast guys refer to this wire as SJ cord with Bryant male/female ends
SJOOW (SJ) has thin insulation. Not my first choice. SOOW (SO) has much thicker, more durable insulation.
I love these sorts of projects. You get as much value out of doing them as the item you create.
Back in the day I use to make power drops for staging like this. I would coat the outside of the box and the switch plate cover with rattle can truck bed liner to make them extra tough
Excellent idea !
Great Cord!
Black to brass, white to bright is what I was always told. Black is almost always the hot, some residential lighting circuits will run white as hot to a switch.
So if you're using something - like a welder - where you need the current capacity of the 10 gauge wire, aren't you limited by the 12ga wire that you installed inside the box?
No it’s solid wire inside the box it doesn’t need to be a as flexible as the cord wire so it can be smaller
@@gabrielpetri4143 so to be clear, I'm not an electrician but does solid 12ga wire have the same current load capacity as stranded 10ga?
To be clear I am an electrician, and the only part of this assembly that's rated for 30 amps is the the #10 flex. I don't know the rating of the plug he used, but the receptacles here are only rated to be used for 15 amp loads at 120 volts. He would have to change the plug and the receptacles if he were to use it for his 30 amp welder.
That been said, solid vs stranded does not change the rating of the wire. While a stranded #12 will have a larger outer diameter than a solid #12, they are both rated to carry the same amount of current.
@@BluCappy419 cool - that's what I thought. It's a "weakest link" scenario. Thanks for helping to clarify my concern.
for safety of not overheating your circuit can only draw 15 amps that is all receptacle is rated for but the heavier the cord the less resistance so less voltage drop under a heavy load = tools work better
I love this idea. I've done the same thing (minus the USB) on good quality extension cords long ago, but that wire you're using is beautiful.
Levatron makes an outlet with both a USB A and a USB C included.
“Free shipping with Amazon Prime” 😁
They also carry them at Lowe's at least the one by my house.
So does Levitron
I use a thick extension cord in my garage to power my smoker & compressor & fryer, which are all located away from the wall enough so their actual cords won't reach a wall outlet. I've been thinking i need to run some boxes above them, but just haven't spent the time or relatively small amount of money to do it.
Watching this video just gave me the ambition i needed to go ahead and do it.
The insert was probably there for the cheap Chinese cords.
The inserts are there in case you use a flat chord, not necessarily a cheap chord.
The insert is there because that 5-15 (15a) Edison connector is only meant to have 12-3 cable at the most. His 10awg is a waste of money and energy lugging that thing around.
@@grantkondourajian6150 I agree, unless it was going to be a cord over 100ft there’s no point in upsizing the cord
My dad would be shocked when he sees this vid.
He's been struggling to find a decent extension cord for his whole life. Thanks.
I think the flexible stuff is "service cord", SJOOW.
Soow
@@joemomma4482 I've seen it both ways. Not sure what the J represents.
@@johndunbar2393 soow is 600v show is 300v
@@joemomma4482 Ah, that's the difference! Thanks for the info Sir!
S = Standard or Service Wire O = the exterior coating is oil resistant
J = qualifies the “s” as junior service
As Earnie said SO = 600v and SJ = 300v
It's probably already been said, but that "jam nut" is a supposed to go inside the box then the plastic bushing goes on afterwards. The way this is assembled now a good yank would cause the bushing to fail and the cables will be hanging by the screw terminals. Another thing to note is that those receptacle connections are only rated to properly fit a #12 or a #14 AWG wire. If you want to us a #10 cable, you would need to use wire nuts inside the box to connect to a smaller gauge wire that is connected to the receptacles.