Don’t you think it’s fantastic that there is a word in Greenlandic (nuannarpoq) that means in essence, “to take extravagant pleasure in being alive” or “I am full of delirious joy in being alive”?. CLAIRE FRANCES
I'm starting to see a few Humble Road ideas make their way into ARV builds and that's a good thing! It makes sense that the best 2 class B upfitters (in my opinion) are paying attention to the other's innovation.
@@897aa33 You couldn't be more wrong. ALL class B vans have some thermal bridging because of the nature of how the chassis is constructed, but the type of interior framing is entirely irrelevant to that. The majority of the framing is inside the conditioned space. HR has had several vans on the road for years and they are certainly 4-season vehicles. I prefer 80/20 framing over wood for many reasons, the likelihood of mold and mildew forming when (not if) wood gets wet, as well as the additional weight which reduces fuel economy and accelerates wear on the chassis.
@dlg5485 Internal metal framing is the worst thing you can do to your campervan. Metal attracts moisture, which can result in mold and provides no heat retention. In the winter, touching one of those frames gives you a very unpleasant wet and cold experience. Humble builds of 80/20 and who follow him due to convenience and simplicity but is not the best interest of end users.
We sometimes use lightweight plywood when appropriate but find it less dimensionally stable, has lower fastener pull out tolerance and has lower strength than the high grade plywood we employ. We find ways of reducing weight that do not compromise quality.
Have you guys ever thought of using HDPE and fiberglas for cabinets and counters? It doesn't swell when exposed to moisture, it's easy to clean, it's lighter than wood and it doesn't squeak like wood does after many road miles.
I love the work and craftsmanship but I think you guys should really switch to 1/2 plywood. No need for 3/4 in an RV, you'll save cost, weight. and space without sacrificing strength. I build and design boats and 1/2" is what's used in the marine industry for those reasons. You just use a couple extra pieces of blocking where needed.
I was really impressed with the creative design and meticulous detail. Huge amount of thought went into this before the 1st nail was hit.
Amazing how much you are fitting into this 144!
POQ makes sure there's no space that will go unused! Wow!!
Love the detail!
Don’t you think it’s fantastic that there is a word in Greenlandic (nuannarpoq) that means in essence, “to take extravagant pleasure in being alive” or “I am full of delirious joy in being alive”?. CLAIRE FRANCES
What about the opposite of that word. I need that to describe my life.
I'm starting to see a few Humble Road ideas make their way into ARV builds and that's a good thing! It makes sense that the best 2 class B upfitters (in my opinion) are paying attention to the other's innovation.
Humble build campervan for summer holidays. Those campervans you can't comfortably live in the winter one reason of bare metal structures of 80/20
@@897aa33 You couldn't be more wrong. ALL class B vans have some thermal bridging because of the nature of how the chassis is constructed, but the type of interior framing is entirely irrelevant to that. The majority of the framing is inside the conditioned space. HR has had several vans on the road for years and they are certainly 4-season vehicles. I prefer 80/20 framing over wood for many reasons, the likelihood of mold and mildew forming when (not if) wood gets wet, as well as the additional weight which reduces fuel economy and accelerates wear on the chassis.
@dlg5485 Internal metal framing is the worst thing you can do to your campervan. Metal attracts moisture, which can result in mold and provides no heat retention. In the winter, touching one of those frames gives you a very unpleasant wet and cold experience. Humble builds of 80/20 and who follow him due to convenience and simplicity but is not the best interest of end users.
@@897aa33 That makes absolutely no sense. I'd love to see some evidence to support these ridiculous claims.
@@dlg5485 - George - is that you?
Very nice
Great job!!!!
All good,except why wouldn't you use lightweight plywood with professional veneer finishes to give that cool professional look?
We sometimes use lightweight plywood when appropriate but find it less dimensionally stable, has lower fastener pull out tolerance and has lower strength than the high grade plywood we employ. We find ways of reducing weight that do not compromise quality.
PROB THE COSTUMER BUDGET
@AdvancedRV you probably tried something completely different. The lightweight furniture board that's what you see used building RV and motorhomes.
@jayaguilar1971 the difference in price is approx. 70 bucks per board. For building campervan, you would need 5-7 boards
Have you guys ever thought of using HDPE and fiberglas for cabinets and counters? It doesn't swell when exposed to moisture, it's easy to clean, it's lighter than wood and it doesn't squeak like wood does after many road miles.
I love the work and craftsmanship but I think you guys should really switch to 1/2 plywood. No need for 3/4 in an RV, you'll save cost, weight. and space without sacrificing strength. I build and design boats and 1/2" is what's used in the marine industry for those reasons. You just use a couple extra pieces of blocking where needed.
Thanks for the comment. We typically use 1/2” plywood wherever we don’t need the stability and strength of 3/4” material.
Please describe the electrical part.
This is what happens when you don’t say no to the client
the b box and its interior volume, is it larger than an extended wheelbase's cargo volume?
what is the average wait time for a b box these days?
Wait time is probably 10 years because you have people that want these kinds of builds.
The Endless details of POO.
This is the sort of think you can milk of a 144 when you drop the BS of wanting to carry bikes in a Van.