This video shows how to use a countersinking bit on a piece of metal plate in order to get counter sunk bolt flush with the surface brought to you by www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/video/
One small area you might have liked to add is to get the correct angle countersink for the screw/bolt you are using. Less important for wood but on metal projects you could end up with uneven clamping pressure from the bolt head which could make the work weak or even worse could crack or split the top piece.
believe it or not, this video helped understand a concept in dentistry about implants "to prepare the bone for a flared implant shape at the coronal end" Thanks!
Hi I feel I must point out that I was surprised to see you doing this without the work piece being secured to the drill platform. The reason for this comment is I have seen a lot of work pieces were the bit has snagged causing the work piece to be rotated this can take the operators hand with it. thanks for your video clips I have learnt from them.
I've never seen a "counter bit" snag, it's shape and way of cutting the metal its more likely to go off center when the piece is not properly secured, also counts the pressure and the speed...but I am aware that when having experience in metal working the skills matter and good results can be accomplished...but when "drilling", the material type, speed, pressure and use of the appropriate cooling avoid snagging but there is a chance to occur, it's matter of great concern...Thanks for sharing it.
i am about to make my first countersunk holes by myself in a 2mm aluminum panel. i got a drill press like yours, a Hanger HSS Co M3 6,3mm countersunk drill like yours but i do not understand what is the brown product in bomb you put in the final stage to get the perfect hole : cutting oil ? this looks like a lubricant (i got a bomb for car called "solid oil" similar to yours)
Hi, UH. Would you say that one of the main reasons your drill bits cut so fast is because of the cutting fluid you use? I have never had much luck drilling metal, the main reasons I have concluded are; cheap drill bits,dull bits and no fluid. I have invested in some cobalt bits and I know it is recommended they are used only with cutting fluid. I have yet to use these bits yet but I am expecting good results. Any experience with these bits? N.
is there any information knocking about on what size countersunk head for the material thickness, other than you obviously cant countersink a piece of 1mm metal
Yes, I’ve used plenty of different pillar drills in my life. Sometimes the depth stop is different than the type I have on my home pillar drill, but the key to getting identical countersunk holes, is to set the depth stop correctly. It’s always best to practice on a piece of scrap first 👍
@@ultimatehandyman yeah at my job the depth gauge is almost completely broken so even if you set it up. Most of the times it still lets you go past set depth easily. That’s why I was wondering if you knew different systems for it cause I want them to buy one.
Ive never seen a countersink snag either the fluted as used here or the fluteless (my preference) Even if it did snag however he had the correct setup using his left hand to secure the work with vice grips and his right hand on the drill, if it did snag the piece of work would be spun just a small amount until the vice grips hit the pillar then it would stop. Scary yes but not dangerous.
The drill was set to it's slowest speed. Cutting fluid/paste is essential, but didn't use it initially so that people could see. Thanks for the comment 👍
Not sure about UK, but here in Russia wearing a gloves during opreating a rotating tools is prohibited by safety instructions. Great channel, thank you for your videos!
Хобби
One small area you might have liked to add is to get the correct angle countersink for the screw/bolt you are using. Less important for wood but on metal projects you could end up with uneven clamping pressure from the bolt head which could make the work weak or even worse could crack or split the top piece.
Very good step-by-step explanation. Explanation of anything should start with "why we do this". You managed that. Liked it.
+Jay Bhatt
Thanks for the comment ;-)
believe it or not, this video helped understand a concept in dentistry about implants "to prepare the bone for a flared implant shape at the coronal end"
Thanks!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
*Excellent video 👏🎉🎊*
Thank you 👍
Hi
I feel I must point out that I was surprised to see you doing this without the work piece being secured to the drill platform. The reason for this comment is I have seen a lot of work pieces were the bit has snagged causing the work piece to be rotated this can take the operators hand with it. thanks for your video clips I have learnt from them.
I've never seen a "counter bit" snag, it's shape and way of cutting the metal its more likely to go off center when the piece is not properly secured, also counts the pressure and the speed...but I am aware that when having experience in metal working the skills matter and good results can be accomplished...but when "drilling", the material type, speed, pressure and use of the appropriate cooling avoid snagging but there is a chance to occur, it's matter of great concern...Thanks for sharing it.
where to buy counterstrike bit for steel
i am about to make my first countersunk holes by myself in a 2mm aluminum panel. i got a drill press like yours, a Hanger HSS Co M3 6,3mm countersunk drill like yours but i do not understand what is the brown product in bomb you put in the final stage to get the perfect hole : cutting oil ? this looks like a lubricant (i got a bomb for car called "solid oil" similar to yours)
Hi, I used a cutting/tapping fluid which keeps the countersink bit cool and prevents it from over heating (which can damage the countersink bit)
Hi, UH. Would you say that one of the main reasons your drill bits cut so fast is because of the cutting fluid you use? I have never had much luck drilling metal, the main reasons I have concluded are; cheap drill bits,dull bits and no fluid. I have invested in some cobalt bits and I know it is recommended they are used only with cutting fluid. I have yet to use these bits yet but I am expecting good results. Any experience with these bits?
N.
Silly question, my hand drill has 2 drilling mode, they are R and L, which mode I use for countersink drilling ?
R would normally be used for drilling or countersinking.
The mode is determined by where in the world you live , what way the toilet water flushes , are you left or right handed and how drunk you are .
is there any information knocking about on what size countersunk head for the material thickness, other than you obviously cant countersink a piece of 1mm metal
+Michael Wright
I'm not aware of anything, sorry.
Could you show us how you set it up to be at the exact same depth as the rest of them please?
You need to use the depth stop on the pillar drill-
ruclips.net/video/YAj65KyH9bg/видео.html
👍
@@ultimatehandyman have you used different drills in your life? Are there different systems to set up this?
Yes, I’ve used plenty of different pillar drills in my life. Sometimes the depth stop is different than the type I have on my home pillar drill, but the key to getting identical countersunk holes, is to set the depth stop correctly. It’s always best to practice on a piece of scrap first 👍
@@ultimatehandyman yeah at my job the depth gauge is almost completely broken so even if you set it up. Most of the times it still lets you go past set depth easily. That’s why I was wondering if you knew different systems for it cause I want them to buy one.
@@ultimatehandyman you got any links to these different systems for depth?
Nice one thank you again!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ive never seen a countersink snag either the fluted as used here or the fluteless (my preference) Even if it did snag however he had the correct setup using his left hand to secure the work with vice grips and his right hand on the drill, if it did snag the piece of work would be spun just a small amount until the vice grips hit the pillar then it would stop. Scary yes but not dangerous.
No lube/cutting fluid to start? What speed was the drill set to?
The drill was set to it's slowest speed.
Cutting fluid/paste is essential, but didn't use it initially so that people could see.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Where do you get your bits
I normally get them from AITCH, as a mate of mine works there-
www.fyldefasteners.co.uk/
Sometimes if I'm not buying a lot I buy them from ebay etc.
A block of what? :)
Not sure about UK, but here in Russia wearing a gloves during opreating a rotating tools is prohibited by safety instructions.
Great channel, thank you for your videos!
why do i experoence chattering, (not perfect countersunk holes that are wavey)
I think that happens when the bit goes blunt