this film saved me | Delta 3200 & Mamiya RZ67
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- Опубликовано: 29 апр 2024
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Personally, I’m a huge believer that we can learn so much more from our failures/mistakes than from experiences that go well and are successful. We just need to put in the time and effort to analyze those results and glean the lessons hidden in them.
I definitely agree. I’d add that comprehension and decent analysis skills are necessary to actually be able to parse those lessons tho
Well said!
Dude! This same thing happened to me a few years ago at a wedding, and I was freaking out that I overexposed the roll by 4 stops. But I got the results back and they are some of my favorite black and white photos I've ever taken. It's incredible how well it holds up.
Yeah, at a wedding, had I not known how well it handles this, I would have been sweating bullets. Haha. Glad you came away with some favorites! That's the best kind of happy accident.
Loneliest Highway in America, route 50 is called. I live close to where it starts in Ocean City, MD. I've traveled a good chunk of it across the country. It's really fun in Kansas and into Colorado to Utah. For sure a different vibe than some other highways. Great turnout with the 3200 at 200! Fully saved.
I made the same error last year shooting with a friend. While walking, I loaded B&W instead of color into my G1 and it wasn’t till we stopped for dinner when I happened to look at the film in my pocket that I realized I had B&W in my camera.
I often develop semi-stand in Rodinal 1:100, so the type of B&W film and ISO I shot it at doesn’t matter. Souping your 3200 semi-stand would have been one way to go.
Very clever of Trev to wear that hat so we can tell you apart.
That's wild, that's awesome that it came out and it wasn't a loss. Useful information for sure.
Glad it was a helpful video! Thanks for watching!
Hielo and Alex shout out! So awesome seeing the community come together!
I know them!
Such a nice dude!
This was cool. Most black and white film has so much dynamic range (14-16 stops), not too much of a surprise. I regularly “overexpose” b&w film 2 stops: 1 stop because I’m pretty sure the film manufacturers stretch the truth, 1 stop so I have plenty of texture in the shadows to play with.
Now I want to try a similar experiment with various Ilford films just to get a better understanding of them all.
I like metering 2/3 stop over exposed then place shadows in zone IV then shorten development 15% to protect highlights. Gets shadows off the toe of the curve with more contrast, detail in highlights and shadows. Gives me best scan to work with, plenty of room at either end of the histogram. Darkening shadows doesn't compromise image, and there is detail in the highlights and can brighten them. Have a brick of 3200 getting older so will try some at 200 but develop at 400 in hc110 and cut development 15%. I love 3200 for portraits in 645, grain too over powering in 35mm, less noticeable in 67, but 645... goldilocks at 1600 normal development.
Anyone who uses film to make photos knows that gasp/punch to the gut as you realize a mistake like that 😂
Genuine bummer the moment I opened the film back, but I'm happy to have learned from it!
Ilford itself says (writes) that it is technically ISO 1600, and that 3200 is already achieved by pushing. Ilford stocks handle highlights astonishingly well, getting into color negative territory with "classic" B&W stocks (HP5+ comes to mind). I learned this the hard way when I used pull development with HP5+ - never again, just standard development and let the film do it's own thing …
A terrific insight; thanks Matt.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I’ve made a similar mistake with Gold 200, I shot it at 800 ISO, but forgot to get it pulled! Was surprised at the results!
Hell yeah Matt!
Now that you have shown it, a video showing your current developing equipment (not the developing per se because I know you have videos about developing) would be really nice.
I'll do that! It's been a few years since I've gone over all of that and a few items have changed since then. Thanks for watching and for the suggestion!
When everyone was shooting Hasselblad weddings I went the different route with RZ - must have shot 200 of them. One lens lock up - but spare body saved me. Its one of the few cameras I feel totally comfortable with. The 45 degree prism is a must have - even the metering is dead on - for looks the bellows shade makes it look cooler - and probably one of the best lenses ever made is the RZ 180 Diamond - extraordinary if you can get one also the 500 for portraits - the fall of foreground and background on a full length bridal portrait shot at a slight jaunty angle is delightful - the only modern lens thats gets close to it is the Fujifilm GFX110mm but the donut shaped bokeh on that is outclassed by Mamiya - the 110mm standard is a gem - stands out on the list of best ever lenses - and just remembered the little motordrive is worth the money and sounds cool too - and the W lenses were better but I can't remember why - good stuff
Delta 3200 @50ISO is bonkers when used for long exposures at night.
That sounds amazing! I've honestly never experimented with using film for long exposures at night. Might have to give that a go this summer.
I've been rating Delta 3200 at 1000iso and developing normally for a while and under or over exposing as the light determines to maintain a good shutter speed - and have never been let down by this film. Never tried it at 4-5 stops over though, that's amazing...
By developing normally are you developing at 1000 or 3200?
@@jasonklemp7209 I'm developing at 3200.
I develop it at 3200, usually in Ilfotec DD-X
30 seconds ago is crazy
Dang it how did I miss this
Hopefully you can make it to the Chillicothe one when it happens!
I love how cheap gold in 120 has been
I'll be honest, my curiosity was only part of why I bought a few pro packs. The price was a BIG reason I went with Gold. Those Portra prices have gotten tough.
Hi Matt a stupid question, you say you exposed at 200 and developed as usual, what do you mean by usual, did you develop as 3200? Interesting video.Thanks
I was wondering the same, he said at one point in the video I think his usual development is at 1600
Sorry, I should have been more clear on that! I develop at the recommend times for 3200, so no pushing or pulling the film. Just overexposure.
Sorry, I should have been more clear on that! I develop at the recommend times for 3200, so no pushing or pulling the film. Just overexposure.
I'd come to Chillicothe.
Love to hear it!
i think lightroom has a feature that lets you colour b&w photos with ai😂
Of course there is! I should have known. haha
you develop it at 1600 iso??
This was developed at the time for 3200. Typically I’ll expose the film at 1600 and develop at 3200, just overexposing one stop. But it turns out this film can handle a lot more than that!
@@mattdayphoto I don't know how your channel suggested to me but your photos are incredible. It's extremely how I would like my portraits to come out. both black and white and color. I know you didn't do it on purpose but this white on light tones is spectacular, the grain is very soft and almost flawless for a 3200. I would really like some advice on how to bring out this white softness of the skin with a Cinestill 50d. You have a new subscriber and I'm going to watch your entire channel today I guess
Hey man, have you evet met a woman named Jessica Anderson from Marietta, Ohio? I swear she said she met you before
There's a chance I have! The name sounds familiar? I've done some photo work in Marietta over the years.
@@mattdayphoto She was my ex wife and I believe she mentioned meeting another photographer named Matt before in Marietta and I thought it might have been you 😂 small world ha ha
ohio gang
I am 52 and I wasted about 6 shots a couple weeks ago cause I forgot to take my lens cap off, in my defense it is a Leica so you are not looking through the Lens. 😂😂😂.
I think we've all been there. Haha. Luckily on my M6, the meter will flash when the lens cap is on, but on other M cameras, it's super easy to make that mistake.
@@mattdayphoto yeah it was my M-A so no electrics at all. Right now I am using that exclusively but eventually I want put my Zeiss nifty 50 back on my M3 and get either a 28 or 35 Leica lens on the M-A and that will be my “kit”.
what a rookie #FTA