Good info, but the well known weak parts are the oil pump gears and lower timing chain sprocket. Plus, I'm putting down 830 rwhp with only those two modifications and the motor is happy day after day. Whipple offers an engine warranty with their setup, which puts about 700 rwhp to the tires on a completely stock motor.
100% spot on my friend. Some people out there are dilussional out there not looking at rods and Pistons upgrade when hitting those high numbers. That together with billet oil pump gears, crank sprocket etc are also a good idea imo. Cheers mate
Just built my motor exactly like Alejandro advises in the video. Nothing was wrong with my SBE coyote, but proactively went ahead and had it built. Now she can eat and I can have peace of mind.
It's crazy how far we've come in just a few years. If someone wanted to be the stock motor king on an '01 cobra...............you'd be at the same hp level as a NA coyote.
Great info. There was a reason SVT spent a ton of money going with Manley rods when they made the 03/04 cobra. As well as all of the other forged internals.
As I understand it, the main points you want to address if you're making a lot of power (600-800hp or more at the crank) is: Rods and pistons Oil Pump, esp. with belt-driven supercharger Crankshaft sprocket Cylinder liners With big cams, phaser limiters (or eliminators), valve springs, and secondary timing chains Esp. with high boost/nitrous, add a coolant crossover between the rear cylinders on each bank (cylinders 4 and 8). Considering that is a relatively short list for that kind of power, it's pretty telling just how strong the Coyote is.
Weak rods you say? How well I know. Stuck a rod through my 2012 GT block. Bought a 2016 short block.The F150 route is exactly the path I told a friend of mine to go. He has a 2011 GT A6 with a 2.9 Whipple. Junk yards are full of low mileage F-150 complete engines for around $2,000. He can get enough $$$ from his engine to build a really nice forged engine. BTW you tune my car.
This guy knows what he talking about made sense every engine has weakness hemi are notorious over heating broken timing chain ford engine oil sending unit fail gmc 5.3 oil sludge monters
I've always thought the same thing, why destroy your hard earned parts that cost THOUSANDS? Just to brag? I'd rather have as much reliability and fun as I can with good parts, than to be paranoid about... "when my engine is gonna take a shit."
Heck yes! Exactly what I'm looking at doing with my fox wagon! Just picked up a 5.0 and 6r80 out of a F150. Now I just need to research and get the right parts!
It's Fords 6 speed trans that comes in the F150's and Mustangs (not sure what else has them if anything else) I honestly don't know if it's considered an OD trans, but it is 6 speeds.. so yes..? I'm not extremely familiar either. I've just been reading forums. Pretty much just teaching myself. It's a hobby for me and I don't claim to know anything haha
I'm going to do a swap in a fox body and I'm going to buying a crate motor. Might as well grab an aluminator instead and just save the headache because I plan to put out at least 700 to the tire with a vmp gen 3
Thanks for the reality check. Most people don't realize what all that power does to a car. The 15s and up all break their half shafts when you get traction with all that power. Ford should have planned for this.
why can't you use your existing coyote and just upgrade the rods and pistons to forged ones? you use the same block, maybe bore it out with bigger and better pistons. could potentially handle around 1500hp easily right?
Maybe on meth water lol Up to 2014 seems to be like max 600 hp. The 2015+ seem to be more like 800 hp I hear. Over 750 hp needs a built engine to be reliable. You can't really trailer up hills with 1K hp for long, the cylinders will get eaten up!
No because it wasn’t worn in with new pistons and rods that’s why he talked about honing the cylinder walls on the new engine with the new rods and pistons because that way it would ware in
You CAN'T run a Coyote motor with FACTORY sleeves over 900 hp. To make anything over 900 rwhp with a Coyote motor, you MUST machine & weld the block in critical areas and totally re-sleeve it with something like special flanged Darton sleeves plus up-graded forged rods & pistons. This whole MYTH about "running factory stock Coyote blocks with 1,500 hp" IS A LIE. IT'S TOTAL BULLSHIT. Even anything over 900rwhp with FACTORY sleeves WILL destroy the block. These Coyote motors ( that are stupid expensive to begin with, especially with all the up-graded cams, valves & springs ) are NO different than any other motor because you HAVE to beef up that block/sleeves AND internals up to make over 900 rwhp. A bunch of clueless jack asses to this day are still spreading that stupid myth about "stock Coyote bottom end handling 1,500 hp".......DON'T LISTEN TO THOSE GUYS. THEY'VE NEVER EVEN OWNED A COYOTE MOTOR........OR ELSE THEY WOULDN'T BE SPREADING THAT NONSENSE.
Justin Lodge for sure man. Make sure its got good fuel, sweet 93, some boostane but the best being good tested e85 to prevent spark knock 650-750 whp on a gen 1 is rolling the dice a lil
It’s been 6️⃣ years. Alejandro I’ve got a 2023 crate coyote for my foxbody. It’s still on the pallet. I want a reliable engine. Just want to pump gas and go. Not looking for HP bragging rights. I don’t care for that. But while the engine still out. What should I do to keep this thing trouble free? TIA
Alex, lets say you do all this al build a coyote from the junk yard with pistons, rod and all. Do you do all the labor yourself or do you pay someone to build it for you?
Question. How high can I rev my Gen 1 coyote without blowing the hell out of the engine? It’s NA. Basically followed your previous video on how to build a gen1.
serious question.. how are there coyote guys out there claiming 900hp stock block? 600-700hp seems alot more realistic as stated in the video. is it the ole "it's stock block" but conveniently not mention the upgraded rotating assembly?
Just to put it out there, the Coyote 5.0 Block itself I believe can handle up to 1200hp. If you want to make that much, then you''ll have to build the motor probably with billet internals.
SJ: It's all in the tune. Don't go crazy on timing, run plenty of octane and know your motors weakness also you know how to tune and drive it. Coyotes make that unopened at the wheels here( a few of my friends) in the fastest unopened 4.6 locally. What I mean before I hear blah blah blah is. If you have the coyote and are making 900 WHP don't over rev it, that will help the rods out. If you have the 4.6 like me, plenty of octane and keep it cool. Seriously if you can't trap 145 at the minimum it's not even fun to race here anymore.
SJ LSx Mafia The Coyotes are aluminum blocks with cast iron 4-bolt main bearings and the crank is a steel crank rated to 1,000+ HP and 7,000+ RPM. Rebuild the bottom end and a coyote will hold 900whp as a daily all day every day. The block is fine.
All the seat belt crap you guys failed to notice ... hes actually using a tcmi sanctioned restraint system , same as all the big boys run on the track .
Alejandro Flores been a ford mechanic for ten years been working on coyotes since they came out.... not once have i seen rods go on a coyote with less then 650whp but have seen dozens of people breaking oil pump gears with simple roush blowers on them
Opgs fail cause of chain resonance from hitting limiter. Proven verified for over 10 years of modifying then and racing them. Owned 4 of them all supercharged. 2 stock motors 100k stock opgs at 740 rwhp. It's all about the limiter.
I've got a '17 GT that I am looking at supercharging, be it Whipple, VMP, or Roush (I haven't decided yet), are there any supporting mods that you would recommend I do while I have it tore down for the install. I've heard about the oil pump gears and crank gear being a weak point but I am getting the opposite vibe from the mechanics I work with at my local ford dealer.
I have a stocked 2012 5.0 and the problem is I hear a little knocking once the car gets up in temp but at a cold start the knocking is not noticeable it’s only when the car been running sounds like the noise is coming from underneath the driver side of the car please let me know if this sounds familiar
I'm thinking about adding a roush stage 2 supercharger to my 2013 Ford f150. I mainly want the extra power for towing (not all the time, but occasionally). Would i be okay with the stock internals long term? My truck currently has 42,000 miles. Would the tranny also be okay with the stock internals?
Except he failed to mention getting rid of the crappy stock oil pump gears when going with better rods and pistons. The forged piston and rods will survive detonation BETTER, but the damn stock oil pump won't!
Ray Jay I've spoken to various mustang shops blow by racing and power by hour and they both said they have had very few oil pump gear fails since 2011 from all of their customer and shop cars BBR said 2 .. and they also said that the oil pump gears are affected by engine harmonics .bouncing off the Rev limiter and a two step will brake the gears . just because there's a guy on the forums that knows a guy that has a brother that knows another guy that had his fail now everyone freaks out . check Alex channel he has a video on the subject. and I hope ur engine isn't detonating because if it is then you have a bad tune and detonating will destroy any engine built or not.
jose perez LMMFAO! I only talk about what I know....NOT something I've read on some forum. Take my word for it. Coyote stock oil pumps do fail. Maybe not as much as 3V or earlier gen 4V, but they do occur. With good rods and pistons, what's the next weak link? Oil pump gears! This vid was about what is the weakest link(rods) when pushing the limits. If you don't push the limits, the rods, pistons and oil pump are great in this engine. Since 2004 I've NEVER built a Performance orientated Coyote, 3V, 2V or earlier gen 4V engine without billet oil pump gears, nor will I.
For the 2014 stock engine . what's the max rwhp with the roush TVS and what pulley size ? 91 Ocatne is the only fuel choice in my area. Any advise on this? ?
Alejandro could I just buy a forged MMR kit to install in my current Coyote? (It's a stock Roush Stage 3 with only 3,100 miles.) New crankshaft, (balanced to handle up to 1000HP), Manley forged H beams with ARP bolts, Manley forged pistons with Chromoly Steel Pins, etc., etc. I know it's more work and way more expensive. Any issues doing it this way that you know of? No E85 where I live in MA unfortunately, but we have 93 octane. I'd love to run a VMP tune along with other VMP goodies. Thanks for your input and your videos.
Where are you getting 12-1300 bucks? Used 11-14 short blocks sell for 1500 used. I have about $4500 for a short block: 700 rods 1000 pistons and rings 200 rod and main bearings 300 main studs 300 crank sprocket 500 OPG 1000 assembly 500 block What am I missing? That's 2500 at least without install or uninstall included
@@YDBT4LIFE Just rods and pistons then or are you using new hem everything else for assembly etc? I want to do this, I just can't figure out how you are doing it that cheap. thanks!
I have 2014 GT. I plan later down the road to roush charge it to achieve my 500 rwhp goal. Do you think I need to upgrade the car's engine internals prior to that modification? also wouldn't it be easier to take out your coyote, upgrade the internals and then slap on the Forced induction mod instead of searching for a junkyard coyote? I'm new to the coyote world and worried about it's long term reliability once I add a supercharger
Get forged rods and pistons to play it safe, ARP hardware, upgrade your fuel system so you don't run lean, intake, and exhaust to help it breathe better. Possibly upgrade your clutch as well
if you dont dont what running lean means you need to just leave your car alone...word to the wise...you have nmo business wanting a supercharger and mark my word I dont care who installs it for you your car will be blown up by 3-4 months tops since you dont know what the hell running lean even is,you clearly wont be able to feel your motor out correectly or do readouts to adjust your tune and BOOM...rod through block...watse of $12K
Pronounced Kha-neh Kor-so when you started getting into cars, did you know everything? I just started with my 5.0. I want to learn. If you want to help, I’d appreciate it, but if you just want to belittle me, then why go out of your way to type all that. Could’ve just called me a dumbass or something
honestly bud ..you learn what running lean is when your 12...pushing a lawn mower or running a weed eater...your learning process is just all wrong...you took time to type that in a question,whenyou could have just google it"run lean" ..I mean
So I was wondering what you think a 13 coyote could make (stock) if you boost it and keep the boost turned down... could it be safe to get just a bit more hp and daily drive safe?
I just broke 100k miles on my 5.0 I doubt there would be much selling power on my block right? I'm thinking of just beefing this unit up if that's the case.
Good info, but the well known weak parts are the oil pump gears and lower timing chain sprocket. Plus, I'm putting down 830 rwhp with only those two modifications and the motor is happy day after day. Whipple offers an engine warranty with their setup, which puts about 700 rwhp to the tires on a completely stock motor.
Gen 2?
100% spot on my friend. Some people out there are dilussional out there not looking at rods and Pistons upgrade when hitting those high numbers. That together with billet oil pump gears, crank sprocket etc are also a good idea imo. Cheers mate
Just built my motor exactly like Alejandro advises in the video. Nothing was wrong with my SBE coyote, but proactively went ahead and had it built. Now she can eat and I can have peace of mind.
Getting here a few years late but been watching your channel for a few months and don’t think you can find a more to the point no bullshit car channel
It's crazy how far we've come in just a few years. If someone wanted to be the stock motor king on an '01 cobra...............you'd be at the same hp level as a NA coyote.
Great info. There was a reason SVT spent a ton of money going with Manley rods when they made the 03/04 cobra. As well as all of the other forged internals.
The reason was because they needed stronger rods, but didn't have time to design/manufacture them, and a shop down the street had Manleys lol
As I understand it, the main points you want to address if you're making a lot of power (600-800hp or more at the crank) is:
Rods and pistons
Oil Pump, esp. with belt-driven supercharger
Crankshaft sprocket
Cylinder liners
With big cams, phaser limiters (or eliminators), valve springs, and secondary timing chains
Esp. with high boost/nitrous, add a coolant crossover between the rear cylinders on each bank (cylinders 4 and 8).
Considering that is a relatively short list for that kind of power, it's pretty telling just how strong the Coyote is.
Needed to know this!
I love the info you put out here Alex!! I'm currently working with Joe on my 03 Lightning. Couldn't be more pleased with the service VMP provides!
Great advice! I’ve always believed this is the best way to do things. Ends up not being to expensive since you can sell your stock motor.
Weak rods you say? How well I know. Stuck a rod through my 2012 GT block. Bought a 2016 short block.The F150 route is exactly the path I told a friend of mine to go. He has a 2011 GT A6 with a 2.9 Whipple. Junk yards are full of low mileage F-150 complete engines for around $2,000. He can get enough $$$ from his engine to build a really nice forged engine. BTW you tune my car.
"I got 800hp and no seat belt yo. Damn these rods"
Hello There i didnt realize he wasnt wearing his seatbelt
Weight reduction
Who gives a shit about seat belts?
Adam Lamb you’ve obviously never been in Ana accident I dare you hit a curb going 45
@@whydoihave6neutrals772 that's cute
This guy knows what he talking about made sense every engine has weakness hemi are notorious over heating broken timing chain ford engine oil sending unit fail gmc 5.3 oil sludge monters
Edwin Rodriguez ls3?
Good info, a lot to think about. Thanks for sharing! You're giving me ideas for my Crown Victoria build.
he knows what he is talking about . we as people need more of this .
You can pretty much scrap the motor if it throws a road. The ones I’ve been familiar with all three of em dropped valves.
I don't usually subscribe but when I do it's usually to people that know their shit.. subscribe earned.. this after watching 7+ of your videos
I've always thought the same thing, why destroy your hard earned parts that cost THOUSANDS? Just to brag? I'd rather have as much reliability and fun as I can with good parts, than to be paranoid about... "when my engine is gonna take a shit."
Good info as always. But come on. Seatbelt.
SacredSlaya - no doubt. You have to be a complete idiot to drive without a seat belt.
SacredSlaya It enhances his man boobs .
Who are you, the safety police, or a P.C. douche bag?
He wants to be ejected to safety
Policed by Saftey Sally's.
Dude, you're the shit. Subscribed. Been binge watching your vids. Good stuff, keep it up.
Good advice for any engine that is going to get pushed. Balance the bottom end and use ARP fasteners as well.
Heck yes! Exactly what I'm looking at doing with my fox wagon! Just picked up a 5.0 and 6r80 out of a F150. Now I just need to research and get the right parts!
Is that an overdrive transmission? I am not familiar with it. Is it a sought after tranny for high performance applications?
It's Fords 6 speed trans that comes in the F150's and Mustangs (not sure what else has them if anything else) I honestly don't know if it's considered an OD trans, but it is 6 speeds.. so yes..? I'm not extremely familiar either. I've just been reading forums. Pretty much just teaching myself. It's a hobby for me and I don't claim to know anything haha
OK, thanks. I know more than I did! :)
I'm going to do a swap in a fox body and I'm going to buying a crate motor. Might as well grab an aluminator instead and just save the headache because I plan to put out at least 700 to the tire with a vmp gen 3
I was pretty sure you were going to say the driver
Lol, I was thinking the same thing.
Thanks for the reality check. Most people don't realize what all that power does to a car. The 15s and up all break their half shafts when you get traction with all that power. Ford should have planned for this.
u can put a blower a turbo.charger or NOS on new stock motors but only last up to 20-30k miles or less.
why can't you use your existing coyote and just upgrade the rods and pistons to forged ones? you use the same block, maybe bore it out with bigger and better pistons. could potentially handle around 1500hp easily right?
Probably what I'll do
Maybe on meth water lol Up to 2014 seems to be like max 600 hp.
The 2015+ seem to be more like 800 hp I hear.
Over 750 hp needs a built engine to be reliable.
You can't really trailer up hills with 1K hp for long, the cylinders will get eaten up!
No because it wasn’t worn in with new pistons and rods that’s why he talked about honing the cylinder walls on the new engine with the new rods and pistons because that way it would ware in
You CAN'T run a Coyote motor with FACTORY sleeves over 900 hp. To make anything over 900 rwhp with a Coyote motor, you MUST machine & weld the block in critical areas and totally re-sleeve it with something like special flanged Darton sleeves plus up-graded forged rods & pistons. This whole MYTH about "running factory stock Coyote blocks with 1,500 hp" IS A LIE. IT'S TOTAL BULLSHIT. Even anything over 900rwhp with FACTORY sleeves WILL destroy the block. These Coyote motors ( that are stupid expensive to begin with, especially with all the up-graded cams, valves & springs ) are NO different than any other motor because you HAVE to beef up that block/sleeves AND internals up to make over 900 rwhp. A bunch of clueless jack asses to this day are still spreading that stupid myth about "stock Coyote bottom end handling 1,500 hp".......DON'T LISTEN TO THOSE GUYS. THEY'VE NEVER EVEN OWNED A COYOTE MOTOR........OR ELSE THEY WOULDN'T BE SPREADING THAT NONSENSE.
Howabouthetruth wat? Lol
2007 gt here, found your channel from the gt500 buyers video. great videos
What about the internals of a Boss 302? Are they strong enough to handle the added power?
I would like to know as well
Yes, the boss has strong ass internals, I hear people putting 800 wheel down with very minor work
great advice. I feel like ur talking to me personally lol. think I'm gonna do just that.
Starting with the 2015 S550 Ford upgraded to a steel forged crank and rods.
Do you think the rods and pistons will hold up on 550hp or under on a stock motor?
Justin Lodge for sure man. Make sure its got good fuel, sweet 93, some boostane but the best being good tested e85 to prevent spark knock 650-750 whp on a gen 1 is rolling the dice a lil
So how good is a stock 2014 Mustang coyote motor if you just daily drive and keep it stock?
I hope the Coyote engine keeps going strong even onto the next gen Mustang and make these improvements on it as well as others of course
Well that’s good advice. Seen damage turbos too.
I heard another weak point of the coyote are the oil pump gears. Is that true?
It’s been 6️⃣ years. Alejandro I’ve got a 2023 crate coyote for my foxbody. It’s still on the pallet. I want a reliable engine. Just want to pump gas and go. Not looking for HP bragging rights. I don’t care for that. But while the engine still out. What should I do to keep this thing trouble free? TIA
Been on a yolo binge watching marathon!!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Make sure that block is sleeved also
Same thing with the ls but you can get gen 4 rods and be good till you really commit
Or get a 15 plus. Lol. I see your point and don’t know why fords sport car took so long to get forged internals. IMO it should have happened in 2011.
this is why i buy extended warranty when i buy a new vehicle, go ahead and fail weakest part of the engine
Alex, lets say you do all this al build a coyote from the junk yard with pistons, rod and all. Do you do all the labor yourself or do you pay someone to build it for you?
How about the gt350 motor? How will it hold up to 700hp?
lucabrazi36 it's 526 from the factory. will easily handle another 180 hp
lucabrazi36 there's a guy with twin turbos on his gt350 ( voodoo ) making 800+whp on only 8 psi
That dude in blue review the car
Moral of the discussion: Get rods beefy enough to hold up to the stress of your discontentment.
Arguable that the OPG's and crank sprocket are weakest links
Good advice. Thx tuner man 👍
it seems ford's rods are always the weakest link. I have an 01 Lightning.
Question. How high can I rev my Gen 1 coyote without blowing the hell out of the engine? It’s NA. Basically followed your previous video on how to build a gen1.
good ol mr goodnough knows his shit lol
how do you go about finding a short block from a junk yard? great vid. I'm planing for the future
The f150 V8 is not the same as the mustang. And, the 2015's are 35% stronger than the 2011-2014's.
The block is the same
@@codymiller1994 from what i heard firing order changed and they're direct injected and upped compression
@@juicebox8549 2018 got direct injection and 12:1 compression. 11-17 is port injection and 11:1 compression.
@@codymiller1994 idk man thats what i heard. I'd take a 16 and up from the mustang not 11-14
Juice Box Thankfully we live in the 21st century, so you don’t have to go by what you heard. Information can be found on google lol.
serious question.. how are there coyote guys out there claiming 900hp stock block? 600-700hp seems alot more realistic as stated in the video. is it the ole "it's stock block" but conveniently not mention the upgraded rotating assembly?
Just to put it out there, the Coyote 5.0 Block itself I believe can handle up to 1200hp. If you want to make that much, then you''ll have to build the motor probably with billet internals.
SJ: It's all in the tune. Don't go crazy on timing, run plenty of octane and know your motors weakness also you know how to tune and drive it. Coyotes make that unopened at the wheels here( a few of my friends) in the fastest unopened 4.6 locally. What I mean before I hear blah blah blah is. If you have the coyote and are making 900 WHP don't over rev it, that will help the rods out. If you have the 4.6 like me, plenty of octane and keep it cool. Seriously if you can't trap 145 at the minimum it's not even fun to race here anymore.
SJ LSx Mafia
The Coyotes are aluminum blocks with cast iron 4-bolt main bearings and the crank is a steel crank rated to 1,000+ HP and 7,000+ RPM. Rebuild the bottom end and a coyote will hold 900whp as a daily all day every day. The block is fine.
How much whp can a stock gen 2 block hold? This would be if the whole rotating assembly was forged of course
What's the best headlight fluid?
What's a good cylinder wall pressure to be at abs what's a bad pressure to be at
Good advise.
All the seat belt crap you guys failed to notice ... hes actually using a tcmi sanctioned restraint system , same as all the big boys run on the track .
mine pulled a rod on jan 4th.. cost me 100$ thanks to warranty lol.
Damn so you're making 750+ to the wheels?? That's around where I want to be in my 15' coyote
What's your opinion on the 11.0:1 compression Aluminator engine to the 9.5:1 compression! Thanks in advance for the info
oil pump gears long before rods
Wrong.
Opgs won't go before rods in gen 1. I've never replaced opgs in my street supercharged cars
Alejandro Flores been a ford mechanic for ten years been working on coyotes since they came out.... not once have i seen rods go on a coyote with less then 650whp but have seen dozens of people breaking oil pump gears with simple roush blowers on them
@@thomasdavis3998 congrats. We modify them. Tune them. Race them do everything to them. We simply know more than any tech.
Opgs fail cause of chain resonance from hitting limiter. Proven verified for over 10 years of modifying then and racing them. Owned 4 of them all supercharged. 2 stock motors 100k stock opgs at 740 rwhp. It's all about the limiter.
Alejandro Flores as a tuner modifier racer by not informing people about the oil pump gears your steering them in the wrong direction.
Stock Gen 1.. how much Whipple 3.0 can a 2014 Stock Bottom Coyote take on E-85? I could probably find it somewhere around here.
700-750
I've got a '17 GT that I am looking at supercharging, be it Whipple, VMP, or Roush (I haven't decided yet), are there any supporting mods that you would recommend I do while I have it tore down for the install. I've heard about the oil pump gears and crank gear being a weak point but I am getting the opposite vibe from the mechanics I work with at my local ford dealer.
15 and up mustangs are not as prone to OPG failure as 11-14
Thank you for the input, its greatly appreciated.
Paul Johnston the first thing you should do is get that car out of the Ford dealership and take it down to Alex LOL
Why was the car shaking (steering wheel and seats)? Just wheel imbalance? Or maybe a runout issue of some kind?
Does this engine have does this engine have the same Rod problems if you don't modify the intake of the engine
I dropped out 11th grade. but I took auto shop 1st You should post a video of that thing Revving 18000 rpm
Replacing rods on the existing engine sounds better than running the risk of buying a cheap engine
Easiest way to find a f150 junkyard 5.O? You know a good site or spot to pick one up
What about the new updated coyote in the 2018's?
It's been revamped from the ground up. Any info on weak links getting fixed?
Condor1970 id like to know an answer for this question also.
It has the typewriter tick which could be a sign for excessive oil consumption.
I have a stocked 2012 5.0 and the problem is I hear a little knocking once the car gets up in temp but at a cold start the knocking is not noticeable it’s only when the car been running sounds like the noise is coming from underneath the driver side of the car please let me know if this sounds familiar
jeremy manuel more of a tick rather than knock bro, if so its veryyy common on coyotes to tick intermittent
What would u recommend put on my 72k 2012 5.0Vmp stage one kit with the 85mm pulley or stage 2 kit It's my daily looking for 550rwhp
they need to make a small block 427 coyote - done deal
I read somewhere that a Boss 429 is in the works...just watch J Lenos Garage,if its true,Jay will be all over it
I'm thinking about adding a roush stage 2 supercharger to my 2013 Ford f150. I mainly want the extra power for towing (not all the time, but occasionally). Would i be okay with the stock internals long term? My truck currently has 42,000 miles. Would the tranny also be okay with the stock internals?
spot on info
Except he failed to mention getting rid of the crappy stock oil pump gears when going with better rods and pistons. The forged piston and rods will survive detonation BETTER, but the damn stock oil pump won't!
Ray Jay I've spoken to various mustang shops blow by racing and power by hour and they both said they have had very few oil pump gear fails since 2011 from all of their customer and shop cars BBR said 2 .. and they also said that the oil pump gears are affected by engine harmonics .bouncing off the Rev limiter and a two step will brake the gears . just because there's a guy on the forums that knows a guy that has a brother that knows another guy that had his fail now everyone freaks out . check Alex channel he has a video on the subject. and I hope ur engine isn't detonating because if it is then you have a bad tune and detonating will destroy any engine built or not.
Ray Jay I do agree if building the bottom might as well put a billet opg in while it's all apart
jose perez LMMFAO! I only talk about what I know....NOT something I've read on some forum. Take my word for it. Coyote stock oil pumps do fail. Maybe not as much as 3V or earlier gen 4V, but they do occur. With good rods and pistons, what's the next weak link? Oil pump gears! This vid was about what is the weakest link(rods) when pushing the limits. If you don't push the limits, the rods, pistons and oil pump are great in this engine. Since 2004 I've NEVER built a Performance orientated Coyote, 3V, 2V or earlier gen 4V engine without billet oil pump gears, nor will I.
Ray Jay guess I dont worry about it much cause I only mad 598rwhp .
just exhaust , intake and dyno tune my car makes 405 whp and 396 trq do you think that is save for my rods ?
is the rear end whinning is it common on these cars mine does it at highway speeds
For the 2014 stock engine . what's the max rwhp with the roush TVS and what pulley size ? 91 Ocatne is the only fuel choice in my area. Any advise on this? ?
79mm and 620 or 630 with that junk 91
Great video. Newbie learning here. Now what about the crankshaft, wouldn't that be the new weak point? If so, what it's expectancy like? Thank you.
prob a little late, the stock cranks will outlast the cylinders, the next point of attack would be the cylinders then the crank
@@Joebauers2505 the irony is now four years later I bought a 2018 gt, so your response is well timed.
@@chrisbowers6902 hell best of both worlds good crank and better cylinders. Also very nice 🙂
I'm not making that much hp but I rev it to 18000 rpms ,should I upgrade my internals ?
lol jk, good video bud
chuck luper
If you put red color radiator water you will be able to safely rev up to 20,000.
chuck luper
I did this in my dodge f-150 z71
lol
😂
Throw some holy water in the oil and you could rev that bad boy up to 25000+rpm redline just fine
So, upgrade rods & pistons and hone block. Any advice for crank, etc., or is stock good?
Stock works
Good video. So how much can we push the stock rods? Less than 600 rwhp for sure?
700 RWHP or so
hey alex im thinking of doing this down the road can i just change the rods and keep my stock pistons
Why not put the rods and the pistons in the motor you already have instead of buying a short block?
Alejandro could I just buy a forged MMR kit to install in my current Coyote? (It's a stock Roush Stage 3 with only 3,100 miles.)
New crankshaft, (balanced to handle up to 1000HP), Manley forged H beams with ARP bolts, Manley forged pistons with Chromoly Steel Pins, etc., etc.
I know it's more work and way more expensive. Any issues doing it this way that you know of? No E85 where I live in MA unfortunately, but we have 93 octane. I'd love to run a VMP tune along with other VMP goodies.
Thanks for your input and your videos.
Tony B sure. but you would be still octane limited. only so much you can do on pump gas
Thanks.
That's a bummer.
What about the Boss motor? I have a 2012 Boss
Erik Ressdorf Boss has forged internals
Well said.
Where are you getting 12-1300 bucks? Used 11-14 short blocks sell for 1500 used. I have about $4500 for a short block:
700 rods
1000 pistons and rings
200 rod and main bearings
300 main studs
300 crank sprocket
500 OPG 1000 assembly
500 block
What am I missing? That's 2500 at least without install or uninstall included
you need to shop better. LOL
@@YDBT4LIFE Just rods and pistons then or are you using new hem everything else for assembly etc? I want to do this, I just can't figure out how you are doing it that cheap. thanks!
Need help with a 96 svt 4.6 scat stroked to 4.9liters ken bell 11psi tune issues
Love the info
The police force use the Coyote v8, will it last for them? Is it strong enough?
I have 2014 GT. I plan later down the road to roush charge it to achieve my 500 rwhp goal. Do you think I need to upgrade the car's engine internals prior to that modification? also wouldn't it be easier to take out your coyote, upgrade the internals and then slap on the Forced induction mod instead of searching for a junkyard coyote? I'm new to the coyote world and worried about it's long term reliability once I add a supercharger
Get forged rods and pistons to play it safe, ARP hardware, upgrade your fuel system so you don't run lean, intake, and exhaust to help it breathe better. Possibly upgrade your clutch as well
Timothy Voight can you explain the fuel system? Running lean? Is that upgrading to e85?
if you dont dont what running lean means you need to just leave your car alone...word to the wise...you have nmo business wanting a supercharger and mark my word I dont care who installs it for you your car will be blown up by 3-4 months tops since you dont know what the hell running lean even is,you clearly wont be able to feel your motor out correectly or do readouts to adjust your tune and BOOM...rod through block...watse of $12K
Pronounced Kha-neh Kor-so when you started getting into cars, did you know everything? I just started with my 5.0. I want to learn. If you want to help, I’d appreciate it, but if you just want to belittle me, then why go out of your way to type all that. Could’ve just called me a dumbass or something
honestly bud ..you learn what running lean is when your 12...pushing a lawn mower or running a weed eater...your learning process is just all wrong...you took time to type that in a question,whenyou could have just google it"run lean" ..I mean
So I was wondering what you think a 13 coyote could make (stock) if you boost it and keep the boost turned down... could it be safe to get just a bit more hp and daily drive safe?
Keep it under 600 wheel
a friend of mines did this in is corvette ,
Good info man
Alex, are the 2015+ F-150 engines stronger than 11-14 mustang engines?
Hey Alex , I shift at 7600 rpm on a na car "12 gt " making about 470 rw , do you think it'll live awhile
Are they’re any issues with the 2011-13 Mustang 5.0s? I really want to know so I can make a decision on which one.
GreatestHITS i have 90,000 miles no problems. Thats just me tho
Why is it that all these "tuners" around me say the week link are the cylinders before I can hit 800rwhp?
Want to charge ya all that money.
5.3 stock bottom end 1100 + all day
Yep, just like when a guy went through 2 motors at LO9 (sbe 5.3) "all day". LMAO
Alejandro Flores what’s LO9
I just broke 100k miles on my 5.0 I doubt there would be much selling power on my block right? I'm thinking of just beefing this unit up if that's the case.
Jonathan Ortiz if it's running well you can get 2500 or so for the engine
Roger that, thank you for the heads up Alejandro \m/\m/