Which one gives more amps? Ring Terminals or Battery Clamps? Let's find out!

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  • Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
  • I wanted to know if making my own Ring Terminal connection to my battery charger would give me more power rather than using the supplied battery clamps.
    Also.. Soldering XT60 connectors is a Total PAIN!!
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Комментарии • 31

  • @kevincrawford2027
    @kevincrawford2027 Год назад +1

    Soldering that gauge wire you need a higher wattage iron. Also 60/40 resin core solder ( old school ) for electrical connections I found works best. Over the years I have learned clean connections, proper heat, and correct solder and you will enjoy soldering. Enjoying your videos looking forward to the next one.

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад

      Thanks for the tips and the comment!

    • @AndyM...
      @AndyM... Год назад

      @@OffGridBasement Yes definitely need a soldering tip with more mass for those cables, the smaller tips just dissipate the heat into the cables and can't sustain enough to melt the solder, yes think we've all been there and done that with soldering the wrong ends on !! 😯 Keep up the great content, and Merry Xmas !

  • @jeffgendron1959
    @jeffgendron1959 Год назад +1

    I soldered wire to terminals professionally at a business making switcher boards for audio for years. These are the steps we used. The right heat is important but so are the other steps to have a solid and clean job you can have high heat and still have a tough time getting the solder to take to the wire without the right amount of flux, that just creates extra heat on the connector and if anything is plastic you get melting and issues:
    1) Strip the wire, twist it if necessary so no strands of wire are sticking out. I find small gauge wire with high strand count requires twisting, larger gauge with more solid strands may not need that.
    2) With the iron at the right temperature tin both the wire and terminal separately. (look up tinning wires for soldering. It even prevents oxidization as your usually covering all the the wire that way in solder and nothing is exposed when the job is done)
    3) With the iron at the right temperature solder the wire and terminal.
    When your soldering a rosin flux core solder makes it easy and if really dirty or oxidized metal, have a small tin of Rosin flux that you can dip the wire in can help the solder take to the wire well. You should see the solder suck into the wire and you add enough solder until the wire looks saturated. To the same with the terminal. If you do that during the tinning stage when it comes to solder the terminal and the wire you have a clean job with no extra solder getting in the plastics etc... Usually you need to add a little fresh solder to the tinned wire and terminal to get the heat transferring and then all the solder will liquefy again. With larger battery terminals I always did crimping only but if you need to solder you might need a torch to get high enough heat for so much surface area.
    Good luck with the next solder job.

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад +1

      I hate soldering! Thank you so much for all the great info. My soldering skills need work.

  • @cj548
    @cj548 Год назад +1

    Been watching your videos 😃
    Mailman delivered my first 100ah LiFePo4 Today ! Leveling up on my 12ah

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад +1

      You're going to enjoy the extra breathing room!

  • @wherami
    @wherami Год назад +1

    yeah its a good idea to use diff colored wires to help mark the pos and neg. also your xt60 will have markings for what it expects is pos and neg. its much easier to do an xt60 if you have it in a clamp

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад +1

      That's a good point. I noticed the markings on the xt60 after the fact. Thanks!

  • @CollinBaillie
    @CollinBaillie Год назад

    Hey man, a link to the previous review video would also be helpful.

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад

      I thought I added a card in the video. Here ya go! ruclips.net/video/_Wt2FmASaSY/видео.html

  • @atburke6258
    @atburke6258 Год назад

    Try the same thing with 0 or 00 gauge wire and 100-200 amp draw. Terminals win and clamps heat up.

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад

      I'm sure that is true with that high of amperage. Thanks for the comment!

  • @wherami
    @wherami Год назад +1

    yes soldering connectors is a total pain lol

  • @CollinBaillie
    @CollinBaillie Год назад

    So, batteries accept the most current when they are at their lowest charge. Also smart chargers tend to limit current when they detect the battery is "almost full" (maybe 80% SoC is the trigger level for this charger?)
    To try out a charger's maximum charging ability, you should probably be using a pretty low SoC battery. Try one at 20% SoC or something, to see what the charger is capable of, and where that protective feature that limits charging current is triggered.
    Does the user manual have anything to say about charge program phases?

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад +1

      I'll be testing these chargers again with empty batteries to see if there is a difference.

  • @russveinot5754
    @russveinot5754 Год назад

    Like you, I hate soldering and really awful at it. I have a bunch of XT15, XT30, & XT60 and never use them. Get rid of those "XT" connectors and go to Anderson Powerpole. No soldering and a low learning curve to make them. Also, you might look seriously at "lever" type connectors. They are 30 amp rating and no soldering or making terminal ends. Amazon brand is gray with orange levers and I use them all the time. BTW, they eliminate needing wire nuts, too.

  • @dsdsmitty2
    @dsdsmitty2 Год назад +1

    Dont feel too bad about soldering - I'm below beginner - and it frustrates me because it looks easy when someone else does it!

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад +1

      So true! I watched countless videos on how to do it and it was still garbage. 😁

    • @wherami
      @wherami Год назад

      @OffGridBasement takes a lot of practice i dedicated this past 12 months to practice. I do it weekly now

  • @junkerzn7312
    @junkerzn7312 Год назад

    I would not have expected any difference and indeed there was no difference. The charger is basically just current limited at a constant voltage, or voltage limited at max current. Since it was clearly current limited, it isn't going to care at all about the tiny amount of additional resistance introduced by the clamps.
    You could try measuring the voltage at the battery terminals during charging to see if the voltage is lower with the clamps (due to the slightly higher resistance). Its unlikely you would see much of a difference charging at less than 10A, though. The clamps are going to be plenty good enough.
    Where ringlets are a better idea is in cases where there is a more or less permanent connection between the charger and the battery. Or one that will be left on for several days. Or if you are uncomfortable leaving the charger on the battery unattended with clamps for a long time. Whereas clamps can accidentally be bumped-off or disconnected, that can't happen with secured ringlets. On the other-hand, it is easier to rip clamps away from the battery if some sort of short develops elsewhere. So YMMV.
    I usually just stick with clamps unless I am trickle-charging the battery unattended for days or weeks while on a trip. Then I use ringlets.

  • @CollinBaillie
    @CollinBaillie Год назад

    You didn't do the clamp meter test this time around. If the cable is made correctly, the ring terminals are likely to offer lower resistance due to better (bigger) contact surface. Maybe in the first review video, the discrepancy between your clamp meter reading and the charger reading was due to a higher resistivity at 12v and the use of clamps. It's unlikely, or the cable or connectors would have heated up, but maybe the charger was sending 6.5A but after the cables that was dropped to 5.8A or whatever you measured. That would be a loss of about 8 1/2 - 10 watts. That's about 2.0 - 2.5 ohms of resistance across the cable. Maybe not so far fetched? Maybe it's just high hopes for a low cost product? Empirical data would help show which it is.
    Also, for the ring terminals, and it's even possible for the clamp cable, I'd be inclined to connect the battery to the cable first, and then plug the XT60 into the charger. This would be the safest way to prevent accidental short circuit, and the XT60 is made to be easily plugged and removed. You're still able to follow the manual which requires you to turn the charger on, followed by connecting the battery, but it's the safest / cleanest way to do that.

  • @SolarResurrection
    @SolarResurrection Год назад

    Still Rocking. To be honest, off solar. Not going to bother just FLIP the breaker off. Frozen batteries in shed. And someone said 8 hours to defrost, Had leaking gutters and rain. Gone off topic. Sorry.

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад +1

      Frozen batteries are no good!

    • @SolarResurrection
      @SolarResurrection Год назад

      @OffGridBasement ,Lucky its just a fun research project , I can fall back to normal Grid. Feel sorry for people who paid loads or have no grid back up. even Pylon and Giv energy batteries consumer grade batteries in UK do not have self heating. And cost a fortune.

    • @OffGridBasement
      @OffGridBasement  Год назад +1

      @@SolarResurrection Agree. We just had 13 straight days of no sun. I barely got anything from my 2.6k of solar. Had to use the grid to keep everything working. Tomorrow the high temperature is 2⁰F

  • @wherami
    @wherami Год назад

    yeah its not that you suck its that the tools are difficult to pick up and also using lead free solder is really hard for a beginner. Also lots of those heads are crap these days I am finding so it can also make you feel stupid but in reality its just faulty crap.