@@waderigsbee6923 exactly mate. I remember being made to set the valves on a V16 diesel generator when I was a first year apprentice. It ran like a burst bag of bolts. My journey man watched me make the mistakes, them took me through where I'd gone wrong. Always respected that guy for not going off on me. Just pointed out my hiccup and then why things escalated. 👍👍
Too many variables... Great job to Ivan for having the patience to work through all the issues and to show the younger mechanic where he went wrong. This would definitely be a job turned down by many. Thanks for the video!
It's a pleasure to follow along as Ivan forges sure-footedly through a fog of confusing symptoms, painstakingly keeping straight the clues gathered so far, and carefully avoiding jumping to wrong conclusions, ultimately nailing the problem. Well done!
To set up timing you could use blocking pins (sometimes the drill bits are useful). Also the tensioner - the arrow should point at the middle notch and then the bolt should be tightened. But man you are awesome. Pure logic at best.
Having done timing belts on vw/ Audi many times I saw timing was wrong. The tensioner has a pointer that should be over to the right of the window gap on back plate. If I have no start after fuel lines being off to bleed I take of return to filter and suck with vacuum and key on key off 10 times. Great job .
Good job Ivan. Starting in after someone else has worked on it. Not knowing if they have pinched a sensor wire or left a ground off. Working around a trailer. Cheers!
FYI Cam/Crank variance can be checked in live data with the engine running, so little trial and error with the slotted cam gear youll get it bang on. 0 degrees being perfect.
The picture shows where the cam and timing marks should be for the engine to run.I like the idea of the three bolts fine tune adjusting the cam for a streched belt. Sometimes getting the timing marks just right can be a problem when assembling the engine. Good job Ivan!
That's something that should be noted in a tear down guide like a Haynes manual. I wonder if he used one. A simple mistake like that required him bringing in an expert and hours of time. That's why you should have lots of markers, nail polish in every color, white out, and anything you can think of to mark where everything was before taking it apart.
On a regular time chain replacement interval the time shouldn't change much more than 0.1 degrees so it is really for just setting the fine time of the camshaft - or in the enthusiast space, more like your preference :P
On this engine you lock the crank & cam in the correct position using the correct locking pins if you have them or by other means such as an appropriate diameter drill bit if you don't, the 3 bolts are not for fine adjustment, they should be left loose whilst tensioning the belt then tightened after. they are just to stop the tensioning process pulling the timing out by a tiny amount when tensioning the belt by allowing the sprocket to move without moving the camshaft. its a common setup on European engines.
Respect to youngster for taking the initiative to rebuild the engine. Praises for Ivan for excellent diagnostic and analysis. This was a fairly enjoyable and understandable video since I do not have to watch other videos to understand what often used terms like, short term fuel trim, long term fuel trim or lambda means (hint for Ivan, put few words what those terms are when using in a video).
Hi Ivan in live data if you look for torsion value it will give you what degree cam is set at A torsion value of "0" is the general consensus for optimal timing. VW spec is +1.0 - +1.5 for the new belt to account for belt stretch and this is what i set everybody's timing belts at every time I change a belt. Every belt I set the torsion value on usually returns better fuel economy than before the change
Reminds me of issues I had on my first engine rebuild. Pretty intense experience starting the first time. Hearing engines fire up the first time after a lot of work is always rewarding and fun! Great job Ivan!. Thanks for Sharing!
I know your love for VW/Audi is growing, Ivan :). Kudos to the kid who brought the car in. Awesome 2 parter, plus Russian repairs!! :D My weekend is complete.
Great job! He'll forever remember working with you! Just like you worked with Keith D., and Eric O.! Hindsight is 20-15! Better than perfect vision! That's the whole theme of my small channel.
From the very beginning you could see the original bolt marks on the cam pulley were in the center of the slots and the bolts were at the end, so it shows the timing was off to start with, which shows it was done incorrectly from the beginning.
I love these engines. My old 2001 Passat has 600k miles on it now. It actually broke the lug off the timing belt tensioner that the little hydraulic ram acts upon. The ram went full extension but pushed on the actual roller part kind of keeping it from going completely slack. Drove for 25 miles like that not knowing what had happened. I was able to pull the belt off the pulleys by hand...That was 360k miles ago and no damage was done
Very well done! When I saw the bonus footage title I was expecting you to get a screwdriver or a metal rod through the glow plug or injector opening and find the TDC by feel of the hand - True soviet hardcore timing set.
Excellent work Ivan. I said this before, and I will say it again. If this was on Cable, I would watch it all day long. I love this RUclips channel. Thank you so much for this excellent content!!! Be safe out there and keep on wrenching!!
Way to go! From before you started diagnostics, after hearing that the engine wouldn't start after rebuild and the owner suggesting check the timing, I think that's where I'd have started just to make sure it was configured properly. You got there in the end, but I think that the ecu behaviour, cutting fuel and injector pulses led you down a bit of a rabbit hole that you did great to get out of.
I just wanted to play with the scope and gather data before resetting the timing 😉 wouldn't learn as much if we just fixed the timing in the beginning!
When the kid said, "Timing the camshaft is easy." I knew that it was timing. The next clue was the turbo boost gauge mounted on the A pillar. This kid doesn't know how lucky he was to have you diagnose the car.
Darwin is pleased that his rebuild is not at fault. Ivan, this is excellent work going through all systems as you did. I suspect the car will go another 200K miles now. Thanks for explaining your procedure.
Although the problem may seem simple in the end, the depth of the entire diagnostic process and verification that you go through is second to none. Found you years ago from the Nissan CVT and the Hyundai 2.7 video with Eric O., been a subscriber ever since, hoping that in 10 years I might have 50% of your skills and knowledge
Ivan if you ever start giving lessons I’ll fly from the UK just to learn direct from the master lol. Top diag again. I love the logic and verification methods.
Just had the same problem after a full. Rebuild wouldn't start re done the timing and bang she's alive 😎this guy is a saviour great work merry Christmas from the UK 🇬🇧🎄
hold your horses....1. there is a bolt missing from the Camshaft timing wheel. 2. The timing is in its outer position, usually not right. 3. If the torsion value in VCDS is more or less than 5 degreased. from 0, the engine will not start.....
Another awesome diagnosis and fix Ivan! Indeed it somehow seemed out of timing from the first video. VW's strategy for injector function is quite interesting. Was waiting for a view of the battery and if you guys charged it, if not, I'm definitely getting one of those! hahaha.. Cheers!
Your videos make my day , your very patient with your customers that young guy was borderline annoying but had a go at a complex repair and made a simple mistake.
The owner just graduated high school and is already running a small engine repair business and has rebuilt several diesel engines in his own cars. Hats off to him for wanting to learn more every day! 💪
Excellent video Ivan! you have to remove that crankshaft pulley where you engage a special tool for TDC alternatively there is a TDC marker in the hole in the bell housing pulley .It ran as sweet as a nut when you had it all timed up I also appreciate you for not calling it a Eurotrash !! them things are a great car and see over 400,000 miles easily
Exactly what I was I was expecting as commented in the previous video. :) You absolutely overachieved of course with the whole diagnostic process, as usual. Hope to see more people diagnosing that deeply with such greater knowledge of how stuff works. Cheers.
WOW great follow-up video IVAN.My guess was a fuel pump,way wrong.What a valuable lesson,but it really would be hard to get that far with out a scope,for most of us.HOWEVER you SHOWED it can be done ,in that it was a total mechanical issue.The correlation between crank,cam timing that uses SENSORS to tell the PCM WHEN to open the injectors.I'm surprised the fuel PRESSURE was affected by the valve timing even though it runs off the cam.This is one of your better video's in terms of teaching LOGICAL diagnosis,thanks IVAN
Great video Ivan and hats off you the young man for reaching out for help.Also good old Pico scope really came into play as always.Once again great video until next time.
From South Africa...love your videos. When this series started out I knew immediately the timing was out. Some background on these engines....they are indestructible if serviced as per spec. Oil change every 15000 km, diesel filter every 30000 km and never ever let it run out of diesel as it lubricates the diesel pump and injectors. Expected life span is 500000 km easily. The engines were used in delivery trucks in europe before euro 5 and lately euro 6 emission controls and about 50% of those vans did 1 million miles. It sounds a bit tractor but can do over 100 miles an hour and still (within normal legal road speeds) give you close to 20 km/l. The only engine I think that was better than this engine in small dispalcement diesel engines has to be Isuzu's Y17DT engine.
I have skoda fabia 1.9 sdi(no turbo) only 64 hp,first owner and after 20 years and 260tkm I can say this engine is bulletproof.Put new inserts in injectors on 100tkm and new clutch and that's it.Car is rust free and start's right on,not the case with my Lancia delta 3- 1.6 mtj.
I had to change the camshaft in my old 2004 1.9 TDi vw a few years back, Cam sprocket had a pin hole to align it using a 5mm drill bit into a hole in the head.
Timing is Everything! I paint both the sprocket and a belt at both the Crank and Cam locations whenever the the timing belt comes off. Just ONE tooth error can ruin your day. It's happened to me.
holy ivan, that was a real russian roulette on the timing. 😀 you only need to throw a 8mm pin to align the camshaft. and it turns so hard cause these are pumpe düse injectors, driven by the camshaft...
Great diagnosis, especially as you were not familiar with this specific vehicle model and the technical information you had access to was not the best. Plus no parts!
The BEW TDI will run without the CAM signal. Motor just has to turn twice before starting for computer to know timing for injection. The motor will not run withouth the crank signal. The little window in the CAM, there is a small hole behind it where you ind=sert a pin (drill bit) during timing. The mtion in the cam bolts allows tou to set timing plus or minus 5 degrees.
I would still get the locking tools and perform the procedure to correctly time the camshaft to the sprocket. Might not make much difference in the power delivery but it’s good piece of mind. These lock tools look to be fairly inexpensive compared to some engine lock tools. I have also used Blauparts for timing kits because they have tools to rent for a small fee. Also I believe that is a PD engine and the injectors are driven off of the camshaft.
Great repair and diagnosis! When is the PHAD School of Diagnostics starting up? We need to rid that kid of some confusion! Excellent work again, he reached out to the right guy and you did a fantastic job working with him. Classic!
Yup, when you said rebuilt motor, I was thinking first thing to check is the basic timing. I have seen some Honda engines with crank/cam set so far off they end up with bent valves. People don't do good research or get in a rush to finish.
usually diesels with different head gasket thicknesses have nothing to do with timing. injector pump shim or injector adjustment do that. the varying thickmess is to provide the proper piston headspace to allow for crown expansion as the piston heats up
@@cristianojoana1898 yes it does affect compression ratio but if you put the thinest gasket the head will be lower and if you do the opposite the head will be higher so this is why the camshaft sprocket have some adjustment because all the timing components are all the same for all the engines it has to accommodate for different engine cylinder block deck height.
Probably you recommended to get the timing tools and put it on spot, they are on ebay, 30 USD. as well as the belt to be tensioned correctly if the owner wants it to go for thousands and thousands of miles. Thank you for the video!
From my memory, the cam gear elongated bolts are for belt tensioning. That big bolt is the main big boy attaching the gear to the camshaft, those little bolts are there for when you tension the belt it’s evenly applied because the gear will move. As long as it’s not touching either side of the Elongated notches I think it’s fine
Yes you're right 👍 pin the cam and slacken the bolts so the belt can tension properly especially important on a multicam engine. Although not many people bother. 😕
VERY NICE Video Ivan The 3 bolts on the cam sprocket are to set the Itorsion angle. You can view that on a PID on scanner. IIRC it's something like -10 to +10 and you should get the reading as near to zero as possible when engine is idling by adjusting the pulley position on the 3 bolts. Something like that lol
@@throttlebottle5906 It's called the "Torsion Value" can be adjusted left OR right. It's a PID to evaluate stretch of the cambelt because the injectors are operated by the camshaft it puts extra stress on the belt that you don't get on a standard valve only camshaft. Oh and those P.D. engines also need a special oil to cope with the stress of the injectors against the cam. It's a Euro thing that over there you winge about, we have to get on with it!
@@drivewasher it's still DEGREEING the camshaft. 🤓 again, they can coin it any term they want and attempt to complicate it to the moon, appending the need for multiple overpriced tools and bull. the rest of us use dial indicators and degreeing wheels.
@@drivewasher belts wear and stretch, so replace the belt and components before an issue occurs or let it blow up and costs fortunes? trust sensors and computer outputs NEVER. the younger generations are far too lax and trusting of "magical data, which is based upon chock-full-of-errata electronics.
Had the misfortune of owning a 2006 VW Jetta TDI. Worst car I've ever owned. Any savings on fuel was way offset by breakdowns and repairs. My advice to this owner, get rid and get yourself another car, preferably a Toyota or Honda. You are a genius Ivan. Have one or two electrical gremlins with a 1997 Celica GT convertible I bought last week, I'm in Bedford County so expect a visit, maybe you can feature my car!?
@@ebutuoyebutouy yep I just bought a 1997 Toyota Celica convertible with 230,000 miles i paid $1200 for, yes there are one or two peripheral problems, but even so it runs like a dream. The Jetta I owned quit running completely at 170,000 miles and I poured so much money into that piece of crap. My main car is a Sequoia, only Toyota for me from now on.
That broken bolt along with the timing being off..hopefully that is not an indication of the quality of the rebuild. You have an easy going and analytical way of diagnosing tough problems. I hope you charge extra for fixing the other mechanic's mistakes.
Great find and fix Ivan but please don't mention the high pressure pump anymore, this is a PD, every injector is a Pressure Pump actuated by an additional cam on the camshaft!
That engine layout appears much easier to work on considering the passenger side mount is right in the way on my mk4 Golf TDI, im getting g28 signal implausible code, car starts and runs fine but harder to start than usual.
Just trying to help .........There is an 8mm (i think ) hole on the camshaft and the head to time the camshaft to TDC .... after with engine running at idle you look at scan tool live data ( measuring block 4 ??? maybe ) and it will give you a crank/cam coloration figure with the engine running .. now with the engine stopped slackening the three 8mm set screws you move the cam shaft independently of the drive wheel. tighten and recheck .... on some VAG diesels this was part of the 25000 mile service
I think you got way ahead of yourself on this one. Timing should have been the first thing you checked and once you realized timing was off you needed to take care of that first. All that scope and wave forms and all the other stuff was not necessary. Mostly because someone else had been there before you and “ rebuilt” the engine. But all is well when we find the problem and correct it. Good job
Hi Ivan… You can check if the timing is correct by using the scantool - or VCDS - and go into ECM and group 004-4 and read the “torsion value” and it must be near 0˚ KW… KW stands for Kurbelwelle (crankshaft) in german. Unfortunately not every scantool can read the value with crank no start, but only when the engine is running…
Fair play to the kid for reaching out for help. Anyone who hasn’t made a mistake has never been on a journey.
Well said sir 👌
I second that.
I have made plenty in my life that`s how you learn from your mistakes
@@waderigsbee6923 exactly mate. I remember being made to set the valves on a V16 diesel generator when I was a first year apprentice. It ran like a burst bag of bolts. My journey man watched me make the mistakes, them took me through where I'd gone wrong. Always respected that guy for not going off on me. Just pointed out my hiccup and then why things escalated. 👍👍
@UCXZW2YHzGN7OwaVS_E9hCJA were you rebuilding engines at his age, or were you too busy at developing your armchair critic skills?
Too many variables... Great job to Ivan for having the patience to work through all the issues and to show the younger mechanic where he went wrong. This would definitely be a job turned down by many. Thanks for the video!
It's a pleasure to follow along as Ivan forges sure-footedly through a fog of confusing symptoms, painstakingly keeping straight the clues gathered so far, and carefully avoiding jumping to wrong conclusions, ultimately nailing the problem. Well done!
Thanks Graham 🙂
Great job ivan that young man will never forget the time he rebuilt his engine and had to have the crazy Russian 😜 help him out. Again great job sir!!
In mother Russia, car fixes you!
He didn't rebuild it lol
To set up timing you could use blocking pins (sometimes the drill bits are useful). Also the tensioner - the arrow should point at the middle notch and then the bolt should be tightened. But man you are awesome. Pure logic at best.
Having done timing belts on vw/ Audi many times I saw timing was wrong. The tensioner has a pointer that should be over to the right of the window gap on back plate. If I have no start after fuel lines being off to bleed I take of return to filter and suck with vacuum and key on key off 10 times. Great job .
He's got guts doing what he did. Great job getting it going for him..
got her in the end, well done Ivan, russian piston to tdc trick always a good place to start when facing the unknown timing belt or chain..
Good job Ivan. Starting in after someone else has worked on it. Not knowing if they have pinched a sensor wire or left a ground off. Working around a trailer. Cheers!
Awesome. Thanks Ivan and congrats to the young man for a sweet rebuild!
Awesome diagnostics! Great workaround to verifyingTDC without having to pull the harmonic balancer.
FYI Cam/Crank variance can be checked in live data with the engine running, so little trial and error with the slotted cam gear youll get it bang on. 0 degrees being perfect.
While zero is perfect in regards to kw, a retard to -2.9 is best for mileage and a slight cam advance to +1.0 is best for throttle response and power.
The picture shows where the cam and timing marks should be for the engine to run.I like the idea of the three bolts fine tune adjusting the cam for a streched belt.
Sometimes getting the timing marks just right can be a problem when assembling the engine. Good job Ivan!
That's something that should be noted in a tear down guide like a Haynes manual. I wonder if he used one. A simple mistake like that required him bringing in an expert and hours of time. That's why you should have lots of markers, nail polish in every color, white out, and anything you can think of to mark where everything was before taking it apart.
@@johnames6430 very good technique. I also use colors of nail polish to mark locations of things
On a regular time chain replacement interval the time shouldn't change much more than 0.1 degrees so it is really for just setting the fine time of the camshaft - or in the enthusiast space, more like your preference :P
On this engine you lock the crank & cam in the correct position using the correct locking pins if you have them or by other means such as an appropriate diameter drill bit if you don't, the 3 bolts are not for fine adjustment, they should be left loose whilst tensioning the belt then tightened after. they are just to stop the tensioning process pulling the timing out by a tiny amount when tensioning the belt by allowing the sprocket to move without moving the camshaft. its a common setup on European engines.
the customer was sad during the work. but when the car ran he has a big smile. LOL nice work Mate
Coming up to 50 years as a mechanic, but you are in a class of your own!
That means a lot coming from someone with 50 years of experience!
This was a good one. I'm sure if the battery could talk, it would shout HALLELUJAH!
Nice through job of troubleshooting Ivan. No scope nowadays no repair. Thanks for sharing. You and wife stay safe and well 😊
Respect to youngster for taking the initiative to rebuild the engine.
Praises for Ivan for excellent diagnostic and analysis.
This was a fairly enjoyable and understandable video since I do not have to watch other videos to understand what often used terms like, short term fuel trim, long term fuel trim or lambda means (hint for Ivan, put few words what those terms are when using in a video).
Thank you for the feedback :)
Great diagnostics, just a fantastic ability that you’ve cultivated. It’s such a pleasure to watch a master of their craft work.
Hi Ivan in live data if you look for torsion value it will give you what degree cam is set at A torsion value of "0" is the general consensus for optimal timing. VW spec is +1.0 - +1.5 for the new belt to account for belt stretch and this is what i set everybody's timing belts at every time I change a belt. Every belt I set the torsion value on usually returns better fuel economy than before the change
Reminds me of issues I had on my first engine rebuild. Pretty intense experience starting the first time. Hearing engines fire up the first time after a lot of work is always rewarding and fun! Great job Ivan!. Thanks for Sharing!
I know your love for VW/Audi is growing, Ivan :). Kudos to the kid who brought the car in. Awesome 2 parter, plus Russian repairs!! :D My weekend is complete.
I'm always tempted to fast forward to the solution but like to see Ivan troubleshoot it first.
Amazing how incorrect cam timing killed injector pulse! That's the last thing I would have suspected! Great series as usual, Ivan! Fired right up!
Great job!
He'll forever remember working with you! Just like you worked with Keith D., and Eric O.!
Hindsight is 20-15! Better than perfect vision! That's the whole theme of my small channel.
Awesome video common sense and a little logic solves problems.
Ivan. I couldn't wait for Part II. :L-) Loved the diag.
The next mechanic; “holy moly this cam pulley has 17 painted on timing marks, which one?”
As always, Great video Ivan!. Enjoy watching your systematic approach for diagnosing the problems. Many thanks Ivan
I really do enjoy this stuff, put it right and it started and sounds great
From the very beginning you could see the original bolt marks on the cam pulley were in the center of the slots and the bolts were at the end, so it shows the timing was off to start with, which shows it was done incorrectly from the beginning.
This was my guess .. this engine if the camshaft sprocket isnt in spec it can get a bad cold start but a good warm start.
I love these engines. My old 2001 Passat has 600k miles on it now. It actually broke the lug off the timing belt tensioner that the little hydraulic ram acts upon. The ram went full extension but pushed on the actual roller part kind of keeping it from going completely slack. Drove for 25 miles like that not knowing what had happened. I was able to pull the belt off the pulleys by hand...That was 360k miles ago and no damage was done
Very well done! When I saw the bonus footage title I was expecting you to get a screwdriver or a metal rod through the glow plug or injector opening and find the TDC by feel of the hand - True soviet hardcore timing set.
Excellent work Ivan. I said this before, and I will say it again. If this was on Cable, I would watch it all day long. I love this RUclips channel. Thank you so much for this excellent content!!! Be safe out there and keep on wrenching!!
Thanks for the feedback, Joshua! Cable is basically dead these days :)
I'm having the same trouble with a 2012 Amarok over 4 years no start
Way to go! From before you started diagnostics, after hearing that the engine wouldn't start after rebuild and the owner suggesting check the timing, I think that's where I'd have started just to make sure it was configured properly. You got there in the end, but I think that the ecu behaviour, cutting fuel and injector pulses led you down a bit of a rabbit hole that you did great to get out of.
I just wanted to play with the scope and gather data before resetting the timing 😉 wouldn't learn as much if we just fixed the timing in the beginning!
When the kid said, "Timing the camshaft is easy." I knew that it was timing. The next clue was the turbo boost gauge mounted on the A pillar. This kid doesn't know how lucky he was to have you diagnose the car.
@@John-wz3iu Note that it was actually broken off.
@@MTLeopold because it is TTY and needs to be replaced like most VW stuff
Darwin is pleased that his rebuild is not at fault. Ivan, this is excellent work going through all systems as you did. I suspect the car will go another 200K miles now. Thanks for explaining your procedure.
Although the problem may seem simple in the end, the depth of the entire diagnostic process and verification that you go through is second to none. Found you years ago from the Nissan CVT and the Hyundai 2.7 video with Eric O., been a subscriber ever since, hoping that in 10 years I might have 50% of your skills and knowledge
Excellent job Ivan, persistence certainly will make you the professional techs needed!
Intelligence + Work Ethic + Experience = UNSTOPPALBE Well done, as always!
Awesome fix. Nothing like the sound of the hum of that engine after struggling to get it to run. Great video.
Awesome diagnosis Ivan! 👍
Well done, you are a clever mechanic, i wish to be trained by you
i had to do the inlaws timing belt etc..on their seat...nervous as s*** comes to mind and thats with the locking pins.
Ivan if you ever start giving lessons I’ll fly from the UK just to learn direct from the master lol. Top diag again. I love the logic and verification methods.
I might set up a virtual course ;)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics hell yes I’m game
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Иван, это сейчас стало модно в русскоязычном интернете :)
Nice diag and repair Ivan. Figuring out and adjusting the cam timing would have
been some good bonus footage.
That WAS the bonus footage haha
Just had the same problem after a full. Rebuild wouldn't start re done the timing and bang she's alive 😎this guy is a saviour great work merry Christmas from the UK 🇬🇧🎄
hold your horses....1. there is a bolt missing from the Camshaft timing wheel. 2. The timing is in its outer position, usually not right. 3. If the torsion value in VCDS is more or less than 5 degreased. from 0, the engine will not start.....
Another awesome diagnosis and fix Ivan! Indeed it somehow seemed out of timing from the first video. VW's strategy for injector function is quite interesting. Was waiting for a view of the battery and if you guys charged it, if not, I'm definitely getting one of those! hahaha.. Cheers!
Great Video Ivan, I really like your approach to keeping diag focused on what the problem is showing you through your tools.
Your videos make my day , your very patient with your customers that young guy was borderline annoying but had a go at a complex repair and made a simple mistake.
The owner just graduated high school and is already running a small engine repair business and has rebuilt several diesel engines in his own cars. Hats off to him for wanting to learn more every day! 💪
Well done Ivan, I love it ,when a plan comes together. Good on us ..lol
genius.........pure genius ivan
Great job, good learning experience for the youngster.
Excellent video Ivan! you have to remove that crankshaft pulley where you engage a special tool for TDC alternatively there is a TDC marker in the hole in the bell housing pulley .It ran as sweet as a nut when you had it all timed up
I also appreciate you for not calling it a Eurotrash !! them things are a great car and see over 400,000 miles easily
Very nice Ivan! Timing was my guess.
Great info. Been looking for weeks and bought a service manual
You explained it the best.
Exactly what I was I was expecting as commented in the previous video. :)
You absolutely overachieved of course with the whole diagnostic process, as usual. Hope to see more people diagnosing that deeply with such greater knowledge of how stuff works.
Cheers.
Great work ivan i admire your persistence..its a great tech quality✌
Great Video Ivan and very interesting also because I have no idea when it comes to diesel engines thanks again and cheers from Australia ;)
WOW great follow-up video IVAN.My guess was a fuel pump,way wrong.What a valuable lesson,but it really would be hard to get that far with out a scope,for most of us.HOWEVER you SHOWED it can be done ,in that it was a total mechanical issue.The correlation between crank,cam timing that uses SENSORS to tell the PCM WHEN to open the injectors.I'm surprised the fuel PRESSURE was affected by the valve timing even though it runs off the cam.This is one of your better video's in terms of teaching LOGICAL diagnosis,thanks IVAN
Thanks Roberto! Well the missing fuel pump fuse was also a problem, so you were right too :)
Great video Ivan and hats off you the young man for reaching out for help.Also good old Pico scope really came into play as always.Once again great video until next time.
From South Africa...love your videos. When this series started out I knew immediately the timing was out. Some background on these engines....they are indestructible if serviced as per spec. Oil change every 15000 km, diesel filter every 30000 km and never ever let it run out of diesel as it lubricates the diesel pump and injectors. Expected life span is 500000 km easily. The engines were used in delivery trucks in europe before euro 5 and lately euro 6 emission controls and about 50% of those vans did 1 million miles. It sounds a bit tractor but can do over 100 miles an hour and still (within normal legal road speeds) give you close to 20 km/l. The only engine I think that was better than this engine in small dispalcement diesel engines has to be Isuzu's Y17DT engine.
Nice work! From no start to bump-key start.
I have skoda fabia 1.9 sdi(no turbo) only 64 hp,first owner and after 20 years and 260tkm I can say this engine is bulletproof.Put new inserts in injectors on 100tkm and new clutch and that's it.Car is rust free and start's right on,not the case with my Lancia delta 3- 1.6 mtj.
Great video! I've had these issues before, look for torsion value in live data should be -1 to +1 in my experience.
I had to change the camshaft in my old 2004 1.9 TDi vw a few years back, Cam sprocket had a pin hole to align it using a 5mm drill bit into a hole in the head.
Timing is Everything! I paint both the sprocket and a belt at both the Crank and Cam locations whenever the the timing belt comes off. Just ONE tooth error can ruin your day. It's happened to me.
Great rule to follow! Alignment marks have saved the day many times :)
holy ivan, that was a real russian roulette on the timing. 😀 you only need to throw a 8mm pin to align the camshaft. and it turns so hard cause these are pumpe düse injectors, driven by the camshaft...
Great work Ivan as always !
That laugh is what victory sounds like
Great diagnosis, especially as you were not familiar with this specific vehicle model and the technical information you had access to was not the best. Plus no parts!
The BEW TDI will run without the CAM signal. Motor just has to turn twice before starting for computer to know timing for injection. The motor will not run withouth the crank signal. The little window in the CAM, there is a small hole behind it where you ind=sert a pin (drill bit) during timing. The mtion in the cam bolts allows tou to set timing plus or minus 5 degrees.
I would still get the locking tools and perform the procedure to correctly time the camshaft to the sprocket. Might not make much difference in the power delivery but it’s good piece of mind. These lock tools look to be fairly inexpensive compared to some engine lock tools. I have also used Blauparts for timing kits because they have tools to rent for a small fee. Also I believe that is a PD engine and the injectors are driven off of the camshaft.
you just need a 6mm drill for the cam and the crank you might want the real tool
Great repair and diagnosis! When is the PHAD School of Diagnostics starting up? We need to rid that kid of some confusion! Excellent work again, he reached out to the right guy and you did a fantastic job working with him. Classic!
Hey what's up, Aaron! Good to see you start your own channel! PHAD school of diagnostics is in the works 😉
Yup, when you said rebuilt motor, I was thinking first thing to check is the basic timing. I have seen some Honda engines with crank/cam set so far off they end up with bent valves. People don't do good research or get in a rush to finish.
Ivan you're awesome 👍👍👍
Ivan you're some sort of car diagnostic wizard..
As often the case, ends up being the basics.
Head gaskets for these come in various thickness to set up base timing cause various deck heights , gaskets have notches 1-5 on edge.
Interesting!
usually diesels with different head gasket thicknesses have nothing to do with timing. injector pump shim or injector adjustment do that. the varying thickmess is to provide the proper piston headspace to allow for crown expansion as the piston heats up
That only affect compression ratio
@@cristianojoana1898 yes it does affect compression ratio but if you put the thinest gasket the head will be lower and if you do the opposite the head will be higher so this is why the camshaft sprocket have some adjustment because all the timing components are all the same for all the engines it has to accommodate for different engine cylinder block deck height.
Probably you recommended to get the timing tools and put it on spot, they are on ebay, 30 USD. as well as the belt to be tensioned correctly if the owner wants it to go for thousands and thousands of miles.
Thank you for the video!
From my memory, the cam gear elongated bolts are for belt tensioning. That big bolt is the main big boy attaching the gear to the camshaft, those little bolts are there for when you tension the belt it’s evenly applied because the gear will move. As long as it’s not touching either side of the Elongated notches I think it’s fine
Yes you're right 👍 pin the cam and slacken the bolts so the belt can tension properly especially important on a multicam engine. Although not many people bother. 😕
VERY NICE Video Ivan The 3 bolts on the cam sprocket are to set the Itorsion angle. You can view that on a PID on scanner. IIRC it's something like -10 to +10 and you should get the reading as near to zero as possible when engine is idling by adjusting the pulley position on the 3 bolts. Something like that lol
aka. the camshaft needs degreed right. they can call it whatever they want and fluffy fap over it ten fold.
@@throttlebottle5906 It's called the "Torsion Value" can be adjusted left OR right. It's a PID to evaluate stretch of the cambelt because the injectors are operated by the camshaft it puts extra stress on the belt that you don't get on a standard valve only camshaft. Oh and those P.D. engines also need a special oil to cope with the stress of the injectors against the cam. It's a Euro thing that over there you winge about, we have to get on with it!
@@drivewasher it's still DEGREEING the camshaft. 🤓
again, they can coin it any term they want and attempt to complicate it to the moon, appending the need for multiple overpriced tools and bull.
the rest of us use dial indicators and degreeing wheels.
@@throttlebottle5906 I don't get your attitude to this. How does a dial indicator check for belt stretch (tension) whist engine is RUNNING.
@@drivewasher belts wear and stretch, so replace the belt and components before an issue occurs or let it blow up and costs fortunes? trust sensors and computer outputs NEVER.
the younger generations are far too lax and trusting of "magical data, which is based upon chock-full-of-errata electronics.
Impressive diagnostic!
Torque spec on the German engines is Guten-tight
Had the misfortune of owning a 2006 VW Jetta TDI. Worst car I've ever owned. Any savings on fuel was way offset by breakdowns and repairs. My advice to this owner, get rid and get yourself another car, preferably a Toyota or Honda. You are a genius Ivan. Have one or two electrical gremlins with a 1997 Celica GT convertible I bought last week, I'm in Bedford County so expect a visit, maybe you can feature my car!?
Bring it over! 😁
Confused. Isn't a Celica a Toyota? And u can't fix the Toyota? Poor VW. Confused.
@@ebutuoyebutouy yep I just bought a 1997 Toyota Celica convertible with 230,000 miles i paid $1200 for, yes there are one or two peripheral problems, but even so it runs like a dream. The Jetta I owned quit running completely at 170,000 miles and I poured so much money into that piece of crap. My main car is a Sequoia, only Toyota for me from now on.
That broken bolt along with the timing being off..hopefully that is not an indication of the quality of the rebuild. You have an easy going and analytical way of diagnosing tough problems. I hope you charge extra for fixing the other mechanic's mistakes.
I think the cam was a bit cranky.
Wow that's a first for me. I've seen cam adjustment sprocket on aftermarket or performance engines but never a factory one.
Well done, Ivan.
I was wrong. Thought for sure we would be chasing a fuel concern. Good find.
Well it was a fuel concern technically, since the injectors weren't firing ;)
Great find and fix Ivan but please don't mention the high pressure pump anymore, this is a PD, every injector is a Pressure Pump actuated by an additional cam on the camshaft!
That engine layout appears much easier to work on considering the passenger side mount is right in the way on my mk4 Golf TDI, im getting g28 signal implausible code, car starts and runs fine but harder to start than usual.
Just trying to help .........There is an 8mm (i think ) hole on the camshaft and the head to time the camshaft to TDC .... after with engine running at idle you look at scan tool live data ( measuring block 4 ??? maybe ) and it will give you a crank/cam coloration figure with the engine running .. now with the engine stopped slackening the three 8mm set screws you move the cam shaft independently of the drive wheel. tighten and recheck .... on some VAG diesels this was part of the 25000 mile service
great video, like always top notch
Ivan I'm always impressed with your God giving knowledge, awesome job!!!
YES, cam timing is EXTREMELY important.
Even on lawn mowers.
!
I think you got way ahead of yourself on this one. Timing should have been the first thing you checked and once you realized timing was off you needed to take care of that first. All that scope and wave forms and all the other stuff was not necessary. Mostly because someone else had been there before you and “ rebuilt” the engine. But all is well when we find the problem and correct it. Good job
Hi Ivan… You can check if the timing is correct by using the scantool - or VCDS - and go into ECM and group 004-4 and read the “torsion value” and it must be near 0˚ KW… KW stands for Kurbelwelle (crankshaft) in german. Unfortunately not every scantool can read the value with crank no start, but only when the engine is running…
Excellent info! "Kurbelwelle"...learned something new today :)