Looks great, I'm sure we all have less time after lock down to continue modelling. It's a shame the lights on the HST. I like your Pig Hill layout, cool name.
Defo send it back ... Never settle for less than perfection ... They haven't fixed it ... It should be duller as per daytime running duties but not that dull ... !!!
I suggest making the front lights dimmer (which is fairly easy if you use DCC - there is a setting). The maximum brightness of model railway lights are usually too bright.
Hi James... You're right... they are bright, but I'm just on DC and I don't fancy fiddling in this area right now. I think I'll have to just live with them! :)
Good to see the HST back, and it appears John has suggested a fix for the lights issue. I like the idea of the inglenook layout. Look forward to seeing the work on creating the river. Stephen
Thanks Stephen! John went above and beyond in trying to help me with the lights issue, but in the end I didn't manage to fix them myself. I still have not decided whether or not to send it back. It's not that noticeable in the grand scheme of things, and I don't run trains all that often anyway! :-/
Many thanks Neil - thank you for the comment. I am pleased you like what I am making. Any questions, just ask - I will always do my best to answer. -- Michael.
Hi Michael, excellent update, the HST looks great, follow John’s instructions about the lights, he is a mind of great knowledge. Love the Pig Hill Yard layout to, you have two layouts to be proud of mate. Cheers for now Michael, John
Thanks John. John really went the extra mile to help me with the lights - I am really grateful to him. Thanks for the comments re Pig Hill Yard - I really should get it out of the garage more often. The spiders won't be that happy though! :)
Hi Michael. So far, so good. I am looking forward to your treatment of the river. I prefer to use several coats of gloss varnish over a variegated, painted base layer - darker colours in the middle of the stream with lighter tones applied at the edges to represent the shallows. Very effective and a fraction of the cost of that poured resin water system that so many use. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Paul! That is what I was planning on doing this time round. I have used PVA in the past but it goes milky. All I am after is a nice reflection of the iron arch bridge in the surface of the water, and I think gloss varnish will be the way to go for that. I think the resin water systems look like too much trouble and expense!
Short but sweet update Nick. The lights on the HST would bug me especially as it's already been back to be fixed - albeit for another issue. Very nice OO shunting layout. Appreciate how the day job sometimes precludes us from working on our layouts full time. Cheers Euan
Nice update the 00 gauge shunting layout looks nice the buildings also look nice i have been working on a scratch build project my self which i finished today and will be shown in a future update.
Hi Michael! Nice update! love the inglenook layout, I have been planning a similar project in N-gauge for the past few months. My plan will be to do it as a 24hr challenge! so it wont be as detailed as yours and due to present times, I cant get anything I require at the minute so it will be a Christmas project for 2021. All the best Tony
Hi Michael. I hate it when things don't work properly. Before just settling for the dim lights, why not just have a chat with TMC(?)? Ask them how they made the repair you sent it back to them and whether the repair may have affected the lights (did they add resistor somewhere?). If the worst comes to the worst, then settle for dim lights. Good luck.
Great to see the HST back. The lighting ‘issue’ is more than likely the lighting lens slipped out of position. I’m sure if you pop off the body (watch the wire from body to chassis), reposition the lens. Probably a 5min job. Love the OO layout, and esp as you’ve made it into the shunting game, which is exactly the idea for Piccadilly Sidings layout. I just haven’t got that far, lol
Thanks John... To get the body off, do I just pull? I can’t see a screw or any clips. I dread reintroducing the original issue. There are no instructions in the box for how you get the top off... 🤔 I love what you’re doing with Piccadilly Sidings. 👍
Chandwell N Gauge Model Railway the HST body is literally just clipped on. If you slip your finger nails or card etc under the bodyside and prise outwards. Just having lunch now Ill do you quick video and send it via messenger. Can you confirm your name Michael .... sorry cant remember we would have to be facebook friends, think we are just send me request and Ill show you on one of mine what to look for
Glad the HST is back. It really does look the part. As for the lights, if you hadn’t mentioned them I don’t think I would have noticed them. I’d be tempted to leave them as is, unless it really bugs you. Talking of bring tempted, could I justify a HST on my layout 🤔 Thanks for the update 👍
Thanks Ron! Yes! Yes! There's always justification for an HST on your layout! After trying to look inside the HST for the problem, and not having a clue what I was doing, I am also tempted to just leave them alone... See you next time! --Michael.
Hi Michael, I've only recently started watching your channel - am enjoying it a lot so far :) I got the same Dapol N-gauge HST (also in Swallow livery) at the same time as you, and have the same issue with the dummy power car bogie, on the 3rd one that I've been sent now and I've given up sending it back. Do you know what TMC did to yours to fix its dragging issue?
Welcome to Chandwell, Jonathan! Oh heck, I must be lucky that it only happened the once. You're not the first to say that you had the same problem as I did. I'm afraid I have no idea what was done to fix the issue. I just sent it back and it came back fixed. I don't even know if I received the same model that I sent back, or if it was a new one. I hope you get it sorted. --Michael
Voltage drop ?...coach connection perhaps , worth uncoupling and recoupling , never worked with n gauge bur it would be my first port of call....stoatin inglnook .perfect for little hands to work on...😍
Delicious smorgasbord of delights this month Michael 😉 Pig Hill really shows how wonderful those Scalescenes kits can be in the hands of someone willing to put the time and effort into them 😍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Even after eight years of tiny hands and spider infested garage 😱 it still looks stunning 😁 The HST is truly gorgeous and really looks at home on Chandwell, I’m sure John Warner’s advice will solve your “lights” issue 🤞🏻 Very best wishes from County Wicklow ☘️
Many thanks Paul! Yes, the Scalescenes buildings are magnificent. I love working with them, and the HST really does look at home on the curved Chandwell Viaduct. Thank you for watching - see you next time! --Michael.
To be honest - the power car headlights aren't right either - it should be the two outer marker lights and either the left or the right main headlight, right?
You mention using a diode to stop the shunter running into the wall at the end of the Pig Hill layout. Can you tell me how do you use the diode please?
Hi Peter... I'm no electrical expert by far, but it's really easy to do. A diode simply lets electricity flow through it in one direction, and not the other. So... I cut one of the rails and soldered a wire to either side of the cut. Then soldered each wire to the end of the diode (making sure it was the right way round - I can't quite remember, but on a diode, the electricity runs from the side without the stripe to the side with the stripe). So this causes the track to be dead when running in one direction, thus causing the loco to stop, but work perfectly in the other direction, so the loco can move away from the end of the layout. Does this answer your question?
Have you had any issues with the couplings ie phantom disconnection on smooth straight tracks with HST 125 ? I’ve seen on RUclips guys with this problem , just wondering if you have had the same ?
There is no straight track on Chandwell unfortunately! Since it was repaired I've had no problems with it. The original problem was causing uncoupling, but that was only on curves and pointwork rather than straight track. So maybe I am lucky in that regard!? --Michael.
Hi, TMC did a heavy weather on my Western Pullman like on your HST and that has made the white lights on that not as bright as my Blue Pullman, in fact they have a yellowish tinge now, could this be the reason ?
It could be... who knows? I have no idea what's happened to it. I think I will call them this week and see what they say. It's a shame that yours isn't right either... how frustrating!
@@Chandwell I actually think mine is right because as the dirt builds up it does make the white lights have a yellowish tinge. I remember the DMU's of the 70's being just like that
Lucky BOYS ,,,,,,, great model with enough space to shuffle a small train
We have spent a lot of time shuffling trains!
Looks great, I'm sure we all have less time after lock down to continue modelling. It's a shame the lights on the HST. I like your Pig Hill layout, cool name.
Thank you! My then five-year-old daughter named it. We always planned to put model pigs on the hill but never managed to get that far! 🐖
@@Chandwell 😂 that is a great.
Great idea with Pig Hill. It's also a very very nice layout.
Thank you very much!
Defo send it back ... Never settle for less than perfection ... They haven't fixed it ... It should be duller as per daytime running duties but not that dull ... !!!
Thanks Matthew!
I suggest making the front lights dimmer (which is fairly easy if you use DCC - there is a setting). The maximum brightness of model railway lights are usually too bright.
Hi James... You're right... they are bright, but I'm just on DC and I don't fancy fiddling in this area right now. I think I'll have to just live with them! :)
Nice and cool video " 👍🏻"
Thank you!
I am glad you got your locomotive almost fixed. Love the small switching layout. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Thanks 👍 Glad you liked Pig Hill! :)
Good to see the HST back, and it appears John has suggested a fix for the lights issue. I like the idea of the inglenook layout. Look forward to seeing the work on creating the river. Stephen
Thanks Stephen! John went above and beyond in trying to help me with the lights issue, but in the end I didn't manage to fix them myself. I still have not decided whether or not to send it back. It's not that noticeable in the grand scheme of things, and I don't run trains all that often anyway! :-/
HI Michael, Just come across your thread. Love your layout and the scratch built work you are doing. Cheers, Neil.
Many thanks Neil - thank you for the comment. I am pleased you like what I am making. Any questions, just ask - I will always do my best to answer. -- Michael.
Hi Michael, excellent update, the HST looks great, follow John’s instructions about the lights, he is a mind of great knowledge. Love the Pig Hill Yard layout to, you have two layouts to be proud of mate. Cheers for now Michael, John
Thanks John. John really went the extra mile to help me with the lights - I am really grateful to him. Thanks for the comments re Pig Hill Yard - I really should get it out of the garage more often. The spiders won't be that happy though! :)
Lol! Michael, it’s certainly the time of year for spiders, i think my hoover is full of them!!!!
Hi Michael. So far, so good. I am looking forward to your treatment of the river. I prefer to use several coats of gloss varnish over a variegated, painted base layer - darker colours in the middle of the stream with lighter tones applied at the edges to represent the shallows. Very effective and a fraction of the cost of that poured resin water system that so many use. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Paul! That is what I was planning on doing this time round. I have used PVA in the past but it goes milky. All I am after is a nice reflection of the iron arch bridge in the surface of the water, and I think gloss varnish will be the way to go for that. I think the resin water systems look like too much trouble and expense!
Short but sweet update Nick. The lights on the HST would bug me especially as it's already been back to be fixed - albeit for another issue. Very nice OO shunting layout. Appreciate how the day job sometimes precludes us from working on our layouts full time. Cheers Euan
Thanks Euan! They don't bug me too much, but still thinking about it. Thanks for the comments on Pig Hill Yard - it's great for my boys! -- Michael.
Fantastic, thanks for the video. Great work with the camera 🎥 ┻❂━❂┻
Many thanks! It was good fun if a bit wobbly! :)
Nice update the 00 gauge shunting layout looks nice the buildings also look nice i have been working on a scratch build project my self which i finished today and will be shown in a future update.
Thank you! Brilliant - can't wait to see your scratch build. Can you tell me what it is, or do I need to wait to see!?
@@Chandwell well it is actually a series of scratch built buildings that i am making for the layout next is the low relief buildings.
Hi Michael! Nice update! love the inglenook layout, I have been planning a similar project in N-gauge for the past few months. My plan will be to do it as a 24hr challenge! so it wont be as detailed as yours and due to present times, I cant get anything I require at the minute so it will be a Christmas project for 2021. All the best Tony
Go for it! A 24-hour challenge sounds amazing... I wonder what you could get done in that amount of time...
Hi Michael. I hate it when things don't work properly. Before just settling for the dim lights, why not just have a chat with TMC(?)? Ask them how they made the repair you sent it back to them and whether the repair may have affected the lights (did they add resistor somewhere?). If the worst comes to the worst, then settle for dim lights. Good luck.
I think that's the best course of action. Thanks for commenting. I will let you know what I find out.
Great to see the HST back. The lighting ‘issue’ is more than likely the lighting lens slipped out of position. I’m sure if you pop off the body (watch the wire from body to chassis), reposition the lens. Probably a 5min job.
Love the OO layout, and esp as you’ve made it into the shunting game, which is exactly the idea for Piccadilly Sidings layout. I just haven’t got that far, lol
Thanks John... To get the body off, do I just pull? I can’t see a screw or any clips. I dread reintroducing the original issue. There are no instructions in the box for how you get the top off... 🤔 I love what you’re doing with Piccadilly Sidings. 👍
Chandwell N Gauge Model Railway the HST body is literally just clipped on. If you slip your finger nails or card etc under the bodyside and prise outwards. Just having lunch now Ill do you quick video and send it via messenger. Can you confirm your name Michael .... sorry cant remember we would have to be facebook friends, think we are just send me request and Ill show you on one of mine what to look for
Thanks John. Much appreciated. Have sent you a nudge on FB.
Glad the HST is back. It really does look the part. As for the lights, if you hadn’t mentioned them I don’t think I would have noticed them. I’d be tempted to leave them as is, unless it really bugs you.
Talking of bring tempted, could I justify a HST on my layout 🤔
Thanks for the update 👍
Thanks Ron! Yes! Yes! There's always justification for an HST on your layout! After trying to look inside the HST for the problem, and not having a clue what I was doing, I am also tempted to just leave them alone... See you next time! --Michael.
Hi Michael, I've only recently started watching your channel - am enjoying it a lot so far :) I got the same Dapol N-gauge HST (also in Swallow livery) at the same time as you, and have the same issue with the dummy power car bogie, on the 3rd one that I've been sent now and I've given up sending it back. Do you know what TMC did to yours to fix its dragging issue?
Welcome to Chandwell, Jonathan! Oh heck, I must be lucky that it only happened the once. You're not the first to say that you had the same problem as I did. I'm afraid I have no idea what was done to fix the issue. I just sent it back and it came back fixed. I don't even know if I received the same model that I sent back, or if it was a new one. I hope you get it sorted. --Michael
Voltage drop ?...coach connection perhaps , worth uncoupling and recoupling , never worked with n gauge bur it would be my first port of call....stoatin inglnook .perfect for little hands to work on...😍
Could be... the dummy car has its own pickups so it won't be a coach connection. I will look at the pickups on the bogies though. Thanks Jim.
Delicious smorgasbord of delights this month Michael 😉 Pig Hill really shows how wonderful those Scalescenes kits can be in the hands of someone willing to put the time and effort into them 😍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Even after eight years of tiny hands and spider infested garage 😱 it still looks stunning 😁 The HST is truly gorgeous and really looks at home on Chandwell, I’m sure John Warner’s advice will solve your “lights” issue 🤞🏻 Very best wishes from County Wicklow ☘️
Many thanks Paul! Yes, the Scalescenes buildings are magnificent. I love working with them, and the HST really does look at home on the curved Chandwell Viaduct. Thank you for watching - see you next time! --Michael.
great video ! have you tried cleaning your track with Innox? its great stuff and non abrasive like track rubbers etc
Not yet - have actually not heard of Innox... what is it?
To be honest - the power car headlights aren't right either - it should be the two outer marker lights and either the left or the right main headlight, right?
Yeah, I think you're right actually. Ah well... I think I will just live with them how they are. I'm not one for needing exact realism.
You mention using a diode to stop the shunter running into the wall at the end of the Pig Hill layout. Can you tell me how do you use the diode please?
Hi Peter... I'm no electrical expert by far, but it's really easy to do. A diode simply lets electricity flow through it in one direction, and not the other. So... I cut one of the rails and soldered a wire to either side of the cut. Then soldered each wire to the end of the diode (making sure it was the right way round - I can't quite remember, but on a diode, the electricity runs from the side without the stripe to the side with the stripe). So this causes the track to be dead when running in one direction, thus causing the loco to stop, but work perfectly in the other direction, so the loco can move away from the end of the layout. Does this answer your question?
Chandwell N Gauge Model Railway . Yes I can see how that would work. Thanks. I’ll give it a try. Peter.
Have you had any issues with the couplings ie phantom disconnection on smooth straight tracks with HST 125 ? I’ve seen on RUclips guys with this problem , just wondering if you have had the same ?
There is no straight track on Chandwell unfortunately! Since it was repaired I've had no problems with it. The original problem was causing uncoupling, but that was only on curves and pointwork rather than straight track. So maybe I am lucky in that regard!? --Michael.
Thanks for the feedback I really appreciate it 👍
Hi, TMC did a heavy weather on my Western Pullman like on your HST and that has made the white lights on that not as bright as my Blue Pullman, in fact they have a yellowish tinge now, could this be the reason ?
It could be... who knows? I have no idea what's happened to it. I think I will call them this week and see what they say. It's a shame that yours isn't right either... how frustrating!
@@Chandwell I actually think mine is right because as the dirt builds up it does make the white lights have a yellowish tinge. I remember the DMU's of the 70's being just like that
Ah! Good point! :)