Wästikivi - Sharpening Stones from Finland
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- Опубликовано: 16 янв 2024
- Sharpening with natural stones - Wästikivi & Orivesi - made in Finland / Suomi.
Hand plane and chisel, Japanese and European. Lapping / Flattening. Testing on hard and soft wood. Razor sharp.
For more information please open the full text & subtitles!
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- Where can these stones be found?
In a mine in Längelmäki - central Finland. If you do not want not go this far, you can go straight to wästikivi.fi or look for 'Wästikivi' in ecosia. There are many resellers. The Orivesi might not be on sale yet. If i get news about it, i will mention it here.
- What grid do these stones have?
Wästikivi about 600-1000. Orivesi about 2500-3000.
- Your blades look shiny, with grid 3000?
Yes, this is what is amassing me the most. They are more shiny than after using my 6000 Japanese wet stone.
- Is there a trick for this shininess?
With these stones, there is more room to play, than with artificial stones (at least, this is how i feel): With fresh water and more pressure, they act like coarse stones - much material is removed. If used with slurry and less pressure, they behave like fine stones - material is hardly removed, the steal is polished instead.
- You do not use other stones?
I have some other stones, but since i got these ones, they seem to become my favorites. The sharpness is enough for me. Only for really fine furniture or plan blades for complicate wood i might go one finer stone. I got a finer stone from Orivesi which is not on sale. It is similar to the Roszutec from Slovakia with grid 8000. But for normal use, like during my actual timber frame project, these two stones are perfect.
If the blade got a damage, there is need for something coarser - i use a Shapton 220.
- Beside the polishing, what do you like in these stones from Finland?
They are very hard - even misused with a 'digging' blade, they won't take damage, they stay perfectly flat for long.
They do not need to be soaked in water and do not absorb any water - less water in the workshop and they can be used in minus degrees as long as there is liquid water available.
Sharpening on them simply feels good - and to my eyes, they are beautiful.
- Are there disadvantages?
As they are very hard, they might be difficult to flatten. I tried with sandpaper, it goes but takes it's time. Surprisingly the sandpaper (black Mirka) does not get dull fast. Since they are flat, i very regularly flatten them like shown in the video. This goes easy.
If you have a diamond stone, it should go smooth.
- Have you tried on different steal?
I made good experience on 'chrome vanadium' chisels from MHG Germany.
Less good experience on 'two cherry' chisels.
Good on A2 from Veritas.
Excellent on high carbon steel: Ron Hock blades and Japanese chisels.
And also my kitchen knifes, specially the fish fillet knife went to new levels. 
Развлечения
I like hand sharpening. It's relax for me 😊
I have always wondered why people shave their arms to show how sharp the blade is. If it’s a woodworking tool, show me how it cuts wood. Using a sharp chisel to pare end grain on pine is the ultimate test of sharpness.
Oh yes, i have been wondering the same ;-)
I even chose spruce instead of pine, i think it is even softer. If it goes like butter there, it should be sharp enough (for woodworking at least)
Because back in the day when you bought a blade new from the store it was that sharp. Equivalent of 1500grit sharpening. More than good enough for most people. House knife sharp. Scissors sharp as my mom used to call it.
Заметил особенность. В основном все ведут стамеску по камню так, что ось её и линия движения совпадают. У вас ось и линия - под углом почти 45 градусов. Почему?
Жаль, что не показана зернистось (гридность) камней.
Спасибо за опыт.
Вы внимательно посмотрели. Да, мне нравится держать лезвие под углом. Не знаю, лучше ли это, но у меня так получается лучше.
Зернистость камней (примерные значения):
Wästikivi: 600-1000
Оривеси: 2500-3000
Надеюсь, это переводится на ваш язык.
@@littleforest Thank you for your prompt, supportive response. I enjoy watching your channel.
As to the shininess with what seems to be a coarser stone. as with most stones, the surfaces are degraded with use. This makes the slurry. As you continue to sharpen, the slurry is ground finer and becomes a sort of polishing compound as the bits become smaller and smaller. Are you using the edge of the stone to guide your hand?
Yes, i also understood it this way.
In theory, this happens maybe on most, or all stones, but in practice, i found, that there are real differences of this polishing ability of stones.
I usually do not use the edge of the stone as guidance. I more try to feel, when the surface of the blade is touching the stone and than start moving it.
I would be very interested in this finer stone. Unfortunately i could not find it anywhere. Only the 'normal' wastikivi seems available. Does anyone has a hint, where to find one??
I heard, that the finer stones got sold out last automn. And during winter, the stoneman does not have access to his stone-place. But since few days the snow has melted. You can always write him a message: wastikivi@wastikivi.fi
Do you strop?
Yes i do. Not on chisels or plane blades, but on carving knifes and gouges for example. I have leather with silizium paste - flat or glued around round wood, i think, i shown it in the gouge sharpening video if i am not wrong.
Miten saat pidettyä taltan terän kulman oikeana ja suorana taltan laitaan nähden ilman ohjuria? Haluaisin opetella teroittamaan vapaalla kädellä mutta lähden helposti teroittamaan vinoon, eli terä ei ole enää 90 asteen kulmassa taltan laitaan nähden. Tuntuu etten myöskään parane tässä vain harjoituksella.
Jos talta ei ole 90 asteen kulmassa, se johtuu yleensä siitä, että painetta ei ole kohdistettu tasaisesti. - Jos pitkälle puolelle kohdistetaan enemmän painetta, sieltä irtoaa enemmän terästä.
Harjoitus tekee mestarin :-)
@@littleforest Saan kyllä teroittaa yhden taltan nysäksi ennenkuin lähtee sujumaan :D Tuota paineen kohdistamista olen koittanut, mutta tuntuu että työntäessä paine menee väkisinkin edelle, jonka vuoksi olen koittanut pitää talttaa suorassa teroituskulmaan nähden. Eli vähän niinkuin työnnän talttaa kiveä vasten samaan tapaan kuin talttaa käyttäessä (paitsi taltta toisin päin tietysti!)
Noh, pakko vain on yrittää :)
Minulla oli sama ongelma. Joskus auttoi se, että johdin toisella, vasemmalla kädellä. Mutta sekään ei ollut helppoa...
Jopa rautani eivät ole aina 100-prosenttisen suorakulmaisia.