The video says PIN 2 White, PIN3 Blue. I just now took a new pre-made cable out the package (same cable as the video - Mogami Neglex 2534). It has PIN2 Blue, PIN3 White. I realize it doesn't matter as long as both male and female ends are the same. Just thought I would mention this to relieve any confusion viewers might have. Great detailed video. Thanks.
For best results, do not transport solder on a hot iron, as the flux will burn off in transport. If you’re going to do this, flux the twisted wire to account for the burn off and let the fluxed wires suck the hot solder off the iron tip (via capillary action). Use small diameter (0.020 or less) solder so you’ll have good control over the solder metering as the amount of solder is a critical thing to control. Also, be sure you use a tiny glob of solder as a thermal bridge to the cups so you can use low (600F) tip temps and still get effective heat transfer and get an and off in 2 seconds.
If you put heat shrink sleeve over the ground wire and then just solder the tip there's less chance for the copper wire to break after a few years. Also put the female connector at a downwards angle when applying tin as to avoid the solder to flow inwards.
Thanks for informative and good entertainment. Nc3fxx-bag is silver and nc3fxx-b is gold, with a price difference of less than a dollar. Is silver here preferable?
Hello! The gold is a better conductor, so we have customers who prefer them as a quality upgrade. However, folks tend to choose the -BAG line when they are okay with the standard plating, but still want the look of the black connector. Hope that helps!
@@markertek Maybe gold more corrosive resistant (although softer) than silver, but gold a better conductor? Under a silver or gold plating the pins are nickel I guess, not copper? The silver pins are silver plated right, or are they just looking like silver but actually only nickel? (Housing is nickel, black metal, chrome…, or white painted something.) Any ideas on oxidation? Any ideas on corrosion? Should one try to avoid interconnecting silver and gold if possible (due to galvanic corrosion) or no big deal when you disconnect them soon enough again?
Producing an RCA to XLR version. Usually for shielded unbalanced cable I would terminate the shield at the source only. For the RCA to XLR (eg minidsp to Amplifier) Would the Shield and Cold be combined on the outer ring, with hot on the centre pin; XLR being as normal with shield on pin1, hot and cold on 2 & 3?
Excellent! I have two questions: For Studio-Use Microphone Cables, controlled environment, 2 to 5 meters long: Question 1: I have a lot of 2534 and wonder how bad idea would it be not to join/twist the end pairs, using only one of each and leaving a Live and a Return unused. Maybe join both of them to the X shield?. This in order to avoid long run High Cut Filtering and still put the cable in use. Maybe achieving a sound closer to the 2549? Would this cause any problem? Question 2: Which Neutrik Connector? NC3XX - 1) Nickel VS 2) NC3XX-B VS 3) NC3XX-BAG. I understand the the 1st to be nickel housed with silver connectors, the 2nd to be black chrome housed with gold connectors, and the 3rd to be black chrome housed with silver connectors. Thx!
Hello! I'll answer the 2nd question first since there's a more straightforward answer. The folks I talked to at Neutrik confirmed that XX connector material choices are an environmental visual preference. We use the NC3XX series for our standard assemblies. Some people like the look of the black, especially if they are trying to hide them onstage or on camera. As far as the gold contacts, gold conducts better than nickel, so there is a slight upgrade in the gold plating. However, gold is also softer so overtime is more prone to wear. For the 1st question, the engineers I talked with did not see there being a problem with doing what you are suggesting but were not sure if there is any advantage other than perhaps changing the 'color' of the sound as you suggest to the 2549. Give it a try and let us know!
Alex, do you have a concern that increasing the wire gauge by doubling the conductors for pin 2/3 will alter the sound or the gain required for a cable? "Loudness" is not linear across frequency so I am intrigued by your question and how the different cables may influence your system. Do be aware that wires left in place with no connection can still influence magnetic fields ... so I wonder if you would be increasing or not affecting the noise rejection capability of your cables in real terms. Being mindful the core reason for 4 core is to have 2 twisted pairs which by orientation will reject induced magnetic fields or electrical noise from perpendicular wiring (with its incumbent magnetic field). I'm interested in hearing what you ended up doing and your experience with the outcome if you have time to reply to my remarks :D
If I am just making cables for my external gear like effects and eqs and compressors to my converters what cables should I use? Also the converters all have dsubs connections
@@alexb119 Hello! The Katapult should be used for stripping the individual conductor jackets. For the outer jacket we recommend the Ideal 45-265 Stripmaster. bit.ly/3mvjbGe
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
The video says PIN 2 White, PIN3 Blue. I just now took a new pre-made cable out the package (same cable as the video - Mogami Neglex 2534). It has PIN2 Blue, PIN3 White. I realize it doesn't matter as long as both male and female ends are the same. Just thought I would mention this to relieve any confusion viewers might have. Great detailed video. Thanks.
For best results, do not transport solder on a hot iron, as the flux will burn off in transport. If you’re going to do this, flux the twisted wire to account for the burn off and let the fluxed wires suck the hot solder off the iron tip (via capillary action). Use small diameter (0.020 or less) solder so you’ll have good control over the solder metering as the amount of solder is a critical thing to control. Also, be sure you use a tiny glob of solder as a thermal bridge to the cups so you can use low (600F) tip temps and still get effective heat transfer and get an and off in 2 seconds.
If you put heat shrink sleeve over the ground wire and then just solder the tip there's less chance for the copper wire to break after a few years. Also put the female connector at a downwards angle when applying tin as to avoid the solder to flow inwards.
The best combination - Neutrik XX and Mogami neglex W2534.
this is the best explanation to make cable.
Excellent video thank you
Awesome video explaining each step start to finish! Much appreciated!
Thanks!
Thanks for informative and good entertainment.
Nc3fxx-bag is silver and nc3fxx-b is gold, with a price difference of less than a dollar.
Is silver here preferable?
Hello! The gold is a better conductor, so we have customers who prefer them as a quality upgrade. However, folks tend to choose the -BAG line when they are okay with the standard plating, but still want the look of the black connector. Hope that helps!
@@markertek
Maybe gold more corrosive resistant (although softer) than silver, but gold a better conductor?
Under a silver or gold plating the pins are nickel I guess, not copper?
The silver pins are silver plated right, or are they just looking like silver but actually only nickel?
(Housing is nickel, black metal, chrome…, or white painted something.)
Any ideas on oxidation?
Any ideas on corrosion?
Should one try to avoid interconnecting silver and gold if possible (due to galvanic corrosion) or no big deal when you disconnect them soon enough again?
Perfect!
Producing an RCA to XLR version. Usually for shielded unbalanced cable I would terminate the shield at the source only.
For the RCA to XLR (eg minidsp to Amplifier) Would the Shield and Cold be combined on the outer ring, with hot on the centre pin; XLR being as normal with shield on pin1, hot and cold on 2 & 3?
Hello! Correct. Our standard for an RCA to XLR would have the cold and shield combined on the sleeve on the RCA side with the hot on the tip.
Can i use the 2549 (trs) on a synthesizer (balanced outputs)????
Excellent!
I have two questions: For Studio-Use Microphone Cables, controlled environment, 2 to 5 meters long:
Question 1: I have a lot of 2534 and wonder how bad idea would it be not to join/twist the end pairs, using only one of each and leaving a Live and a Return unused. Maybe join both of them to the X shield?. This in order to avoid long run High Cut Filtering and still put the cable in use. Maybe achieving a sound closer to the 2549? Would this cause any problem?
Question 2: Which Neutrik Connector? NC3XX - 1) Nickel VS 2) NC3XX-B VS 3) NC3XX-BAG. I understand the the 1st to be nickel housed with silver connectors, the 2nd to be black chrome housed with gold connectors, and the 3rd to be black chrome housed with silver connectors.
Thx!
Hello! I'll answer the 2nd question first since there's a more straightforward answer. The folks I talked to at Neutrik confirmed that XX connector material choices are an environmental visual preference. We use the NC3XX series for our standard assemblies. Some people like the look of the black, especially if they are trying to hide them onstage or on camera. As far as the gold contacts, gold conducts better than nickel, so there is a slight upgrade in the gold plating. However, gold is also softer so overtime is more prone to wear.
For the 1st question, the engineers I talked with did not see there being a problem with doing what you are suggesting but were not sure if there is any advantage other than perhaps changing the 'color' of the sound as you suggest to the 2549. Give it a try and let us know!
Alex, do you have a concern that increasing the wire gauge by doubling the conductors for pin 2/3 will alter the sound or the gain required for a cable? "Loudness" is not linear across frequency so I am intrigued by your question and how the different cables may influence your system.
Do be aware that wires left in place with no connection can still influence magnetic fields ... so I wonder if you would be increasing or not affecting the noise rejection capability of your cables in real terms. Being mindful the core reason for 4 core is to have 2 twisted pairs which by orientation will reject induced magnetic fields or electrical noise from perpendicular wiring (with its incumbent magnetic field).
I'm interested in hearing what you ended up doing and your experience with the outcome if you have time to reply to my remarks :D
If I am just making cables for my external gear like effects and eqs and compressors to my converters what cables should I use? Also the converters all have dsubs connections
Hello! For D-Sub cable builds we like to use Canare MR202-8AT - bit.ly/38djU4h
What soldering gun are you using or do you recommend?
Helllo! We are big fans of Weller soldering products and that is what we use in our shop and in the video. You can find them all here: bit.ly/3GpfLL8
Use these parts and you will have the best cable ever needed. Audiophools will have nothing to fuss over.
Could you please link to the jacket stripper you're using?
Hello! The stripper in the video is an Ideal Stripmaster but we also really like the Katapult from Klein Tools: bit.ly/3NWOpPg
@@markertek Thanks!
Hey guys! I for the Katapult, but it cuts all the way through the ground wires. Any pointers?@@markertek
@@alexb119 Hello!
The Katapult should be used for stripping the individual conductor jackets. For the outer jacket we recommend the Ideal 45-265 Stripmaster. bit.ly/3mvjbGe
Any recommendations on the type of solder to use?
Hello! In this video we are using Tenma 21-1047 Lead-Free Rosin Core Solder. It works well for this application. bit.ly/3s7K8hM
Forget lead free. 63-37 ie: Item# KS-6337-25 , MFG #: 24-6337-0018 . Available at markertek of all places :)
Don't use lead free. It's too hard to work with. Silver solder is also not needed. The best and easiest to use is Kester 44 63/37 solder.
Apakah seri kabel ini ada yang berwarna putih?
YA! bit.ly/3HLWplq
Thanks sir
это балансный аудио кабель так сделать можно?
Hello! Yes, this is a balanced cable build.
It's not SODDER it's pronounced SOL-DER !
Don’t be that guy….