Soldering is my job. But i always say literally anybody can do it. The best advice I have for it is the same as anything else in life. Practice, with circuit boards I have people use junk boards and take parts on and off a bunch of times until they figure it out. Couple of days to a week and they are good to go on their own. Cables I would do the same thing. Start out repairing cables you would have thrown out and replaced anyway. Because you can’t break them anymore. Only make them unbroken
I'm so grateful you're this responsive to feedback from us Mason. It might sound silly, but a DIY on putting velcro on nicely and neatly would be cool. Otherwise, something like a training-wheels level explanation on the ROLES of inputs VS outputs and Sends vs Returns would be helpful. You've done numerous kitchen sink demos of the entire signal chain path...but breaking it down to an even more fundamental level would be helpful. Or even turning each into a metaphor as opposed to a schematic. I think in more abstract ways than an engineer. Either way whatever you submit next will be fabulous. I'm in awe of how prolific your contribution has become. Seriously. Thanks for kicking ass and sharing something in such a thorough, trademark manner.
Soon lauching my pedalboard assembly activity, thanks to you. I now have the right tools for the right job, with all the knowledge you share. Cheers Dr Mason
Enjoying your content and info. I am building a small rig for busking. Making a cable with guitar and my ear monitors in it together, keep my connection on street tight. Using a 5 wire shielded midi cable.
I recently bought a super nice pair of wire snips. German I believe. They were pricey but so awesome. Well worth the money. Quality tools are so worth it.
Finally bit the bullet and replaced the mismatched, acquired over decades, cables in my 4-cable system with 2524 and Neutrik plugs. All the tips in this video made it an easy process. This is the part while all the dog-eared, cork-sniffing, audiophile types normally extol the articulate nature of the sound, but, you know, it actually does sound better, no kidding. One tip that might be useful to others; Mason talks about cutting a bit off of the Neutrik strain relief. I found that in my case, yeah with 2524, the struggle is real, and it's otherwise hard to get the nut to seat properly; you have to really torque it. However, it's just the last quarter to half-turn that was the issue for me; it's hard to turn by hand for that last bit. What I found was that common spark plug pliers, the type that have rubberized padding on the jaws, work perfectly for this. I should also note that Neutrik's instructions do state that "If using a cable with O.D. > 5.50 mm [0.216”] break off marked part of the chuck", and 2524 is 6.0 mm, [0.236"], so you should listen to him, not me, but, just sayin', it's pretty close, I mean, half a millimeter isn't much, really.
Great video!! I've been working in electronics in Silicon Valley for over 30 years = your video is spot on! One additional use for shrink wrap is to color code the ends of the cable in case you have several long cable runs.
Great video! Been doing this since the early 70's and I do it exactly the same way you do. I use Belden 8412 because I have EMG pickups in most of my guitars and run the Belden into an EMG Battery Box so I need TRS cable. One thing that I like are the Switchcraft pancake (flat) plugs because they are almost flush with the guitar and I play in a chair and like to rest my guitar at about a 60º angle (sort of like a classical guitar) on my leg. If your guitar has a front loaded jack (Strat, Mustang, Duosonic, etc.) this doesn't apply. One thing that you will have to do if you use a recessed jack plate (tele) is change the jack in your guitar to a Switchcraft longer barrel style.
Thanks Mason. It never occurred to me to build my own cables. But after your thorough and informative video, it looks relatively easy with the right tools. Will be nice to have a cleaner setup.
It is super easy! I was apprehensive but watched a lot of Rig DR videos and have now made over 30 patch cables and several guitar cables. I saved a lot of $, spent a lot too but came out way ahead. I bought the recommended solder iron and accessories. That iron alone makes all the difference in the world!
Morning Mason, just started a select playlist of your “How to…” and this gets added along with Patch Cables, and a couple other. I noticed in the Patch cable vid you used the slot provided on a solder tab to feed the tinned shield through and back over before a final flow. The reason given I believe was strength of connx. Although I didn’t see a similar slot on the shield tab on either the Neutrik or Switchcraft, would you use that same technique when building a guitar cable if it were available, almost a secondary strain relief as it were.
You can use the hole, it depends on the thickness of the wire, it can be difficult with thicker wires to fit through. I generally default to the way that puts the least stress on the cable and by extension the solder joint. If you're forced to have an extreme angle on a cable just to say you fit it into the hole of the solder lug, that's not going to help you much and will do more harm than good.
im a journeyman metal fabricator - ive been soldering architectual sheet metal - copper, brass , ss, galv but - these electronic stuff is a different animal - but you have to have the tools - "There is a Tool For Every Job - Use it " is a montra i have written on my tool box - hopefully i can do this
Thank you for this video and the patch cable one! Just received my 50ft of Mogami 2524; 6ft of Mogami 2314; Neutrik jacks and a 10 pack Square Plugs SP400s. All ordered from Performance Audio per your recommendation on another video. Spent roughly $100 and about to make some quality cables for both me and my daughters guitar rigs. Time to fire up that soldering iron! Cheers and thank you from the North Bay 🍻
Looks like that Neutrik model is weak against pulls. Only plastic holding the cable. Should've been metal that can be bent slightly to bite into the jacket. Are there other Neutrik that does this? I don't really trust plastics.
@@bassyey That's nonsense. The plastic teeth/sleeves are sandwiched between the metal housing and cable jacket. It's well suited to this compressive load application.
Questions Mason: is the 60/40 Kester Solder also used to connect Guitar pickups, volume & tone pots? Great presentation = extremely informative video. Enjoyed it brother. oNe LovE from NYC
Yes, this could be used across the board the only thing I might change is the diameter, but even in the worst case you could always double it over if you need a thicker solder
@vertex effects, Mason I can’t recall in which vid you asked for suggestion. I’d be very much interested in a video about Expression pedals, volume pedals. So much still unexplained, at least clearly, as how, where they are placed in the signal chain (semi loaded trick question there), wired in, and or used with switchers. Just my suggestion. Keoki
@@VertexEffectsInc I did, thanks! The expression pedal remains a source of perplexion. Some are $150+ others are $80 ( or less). I realize MIDI can be part of the more expensive but EXP placement options seems to be legion.
@@geo5772 expression is typically relegated to a specific parameter of a specific device. Some rigs with switchers and MIDI pedals can assign the expressions to multiple pedals depending on the preset or you can get something like the Mission Expressionator to have an ABC switch to switch on EXP pedal into 3 devices. Generally, all EXP pedals are functionally the same, and generally the quality of the materials accounts for the up-charge. They're all normally 10K linear pots.
I had a pedal cable that sounded muffled(dark) and thanks to you I was able to do a clean connection that solved the problem. Now I'm thinking of buying some broken cables for dirt cheap and re solder them :p
@@VertexEffectsInc the issue could be one of three: - cable cut or broken (meaning I need to shorten the cable) - shorted out - broken lead/shield connection I can't think of any other issues, let me know if I'm missing something
@@bilalnachabeh it'll just be variable and if it's a break in the cable you might have to sacrifice length. You may also have to get new plugs if that's the problem - that's the most costly part to repair as bulk cable is pretty negligible price wise.
I find it very interesting that (from what it looks like) that you don’t pass the wires through the eyelets of the jacks. Is there any disadvantages from doing it this way?
Hi, Rig Doctor Thank you for your trick. I have question about signal flow in cable, It should be concern this issue when I connect from guitar to Amplifier?
Switchcraft Phone connectors like many other brands use a riveted solder tab which just invites intermittent faults and high impedance and open circuit issue. This type of connector cause more trouble and lost business than you could ever save on cost. Just chuck the dam things out & go with Neutrik because those solder directly to the actual tip and sleave so there are no secondary contact surfaces to cause issues. In XLRs though, you pretty much always solder directly to the pin & receiver so you have a much wider choice for reliability. The only thing with all connectors, it is far better to use a metal body that you can ground because the connections with the plug will not be shielded unless you do this. So no plastic body plugs at all as they cause noise, as do thin and poorly shielded cabling. Good cabling has published shielding and impedance specs. So use something that you know the performance of. You can get really nice high spec pro instrument cable for around 1$ per foot.
In terms of fall out, when consulting with the big boys that are shipping tens of thousands of these yearly (Best Tronics, CBI, etc.), they're about neck and neck, and among the silent version Switchcraft outperforms Neutrik in failures the last few years. I think it's a toss up in the end for each, they both have their advantages. Another good one that we didn't mention, but less common is Amphenol. Nothing mentioned here is plastic housed, and the cable is all Mogami 2524, all shielded and under $1/ft. as stated in the video.
Do I have any intention of making my own instrument cables? No. Will I watch a 19 minute video about making my own instrument cables? Absolutely I will.
Hey there! I was wondering if you knew of any brands that might sell different colored cables by the foot so i can make different color patch cables and instrument cables. I've done some googling and can't seem to find anything, Thanks Mason!
mogami makes different colored boots for their cables, so you could still have a black cable, but also have colored indicators on the connectors themselves
Excellent video and great information! I am currently using 2 of the 12 foot Mogami Platinum from guitar to the pedalboard and from the end of the of the pedalboard to my input amplifier and I really love the great sound quality of these cables…they make my electric guitar a different instrument than was before…now the tone has a clear crystal sound,warm,silent interruptor system and so neat even when I use distortion pedals effects…what do you think about the Mogami Platinum cables Mason?are they a good choice?
Hey Mason, Quick question for the Neutrik plugs, do you drill the boot to the OD of the cable your using? Just wanted to double check before I do something that can’t be undone. Thanks great video
@@jonlanning8973 Sure thing. You might need to clip off some of the strain relief tab, the hard plastic piece that is internal. We talk about this in the video as well and show it.
Trimming the tab and using such a small contact on the solder joint is asking for failure. Cutting away half of the shield makes for a weaker connection too. The clamp on the Switchcraft is mad to go around the cable not just squeezed on the side of the cable. This is bad advice for building cables. I have been building my own cables for 50 years and have had one fail because I repeatedly pulled it out of my volume pedal by the cable. I only use Switchcraft plugs. I used to use Belden cable but now use Canare. Switchcraft is the only plug that won't tarnish.
I'm a proponent of strong mechanical connections before solder is applied... workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/616%20Service%20Lead%20Splices.html I guess in the case of what's shown in the video, as long as the strain relief holds up and the two surfaces are free of all contaminates, then it should be fine, but I would have loved to at least see the wire go through a hole for the tip connection, and maybe a bit more of the shield wire left on to increase the bond on the ring connection.
I don't, and if it's not stick you can use some flux. It won't hurt if you wanted to hit it with some sand paper, but I've had maybe 1-2 instances ever where the plating flaked off at the solder joint in over 12 years.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks for that, I had a time when I just couldn't get any lead based solder and ended-up with a spool of some nonsense that actually makes good joints (never had a fail) but flows like cold toffee and just doesn't want to stick to Switchcraft hardware - not a problem with Neutrik plugs (which I use 99% of the time anyway). Thanks and take care, Andi
I like that Mogami 2524 cable. It feels durable and is of good quality for the price. I’ll probably never buy a cable off the shelf again now that I’ve made my own cables.
I like the silent plug from Neutrik, but it isn't really needed since most rigs have a tuner which will mute the signal and stop the "pop" from unplugging. I think it'd be nice for open mic venues where people don't wait for the sound guy before unplugging though.
So TRS plugs require a different coaxial cable? I want to make a 4CM snake like you showed in another video but I need one of the cables to be TRS for channel switching. I take it the Canare cable you recommend in that video won’t work for TRS, is that correct?
As always a very useful and informative video. This is great information and I’m going to start making my own cables. I’ve been soldering and playing guitar for over 30 years on and off and I think it’s time I start making my own cables. I guess I’ve been lazy 😆
I need some clarification. In the beginning you refer to the difference in thickness between patch cables between the pedals and the cable from your guitar to the board. Is there a difference between the part numbers W2524 and just 2524. In the video about making pedal board jumpers you reference the W2524. Im just confused because it seems a lot of the websites use the parts interchangeable in the title. I just wanted to make sure there are 2 different cables I am looking for, and not just doing endless circles on the internet for a cable that doesnt exist lol. For reference: the amazon link has this in the title "Mogami 2524 Guitar & Instrument Cable - Bulk W2524 - Sold in 50 FT Lengths"
What are the best wire strippers that you use? because most don't cut into the wire good and strip the wire will only strip away a portion or half of the insulation which is a pain to strip the wire. I have never thought about cutting off the soldering TIP Tab that has the hole because I have always used a J-Hook in the soldering terminal hole for Class regulations. Since its Audio the Class Regulations don't apply but can't be used in other applications because QC/QA will not pass this type of work. But I'm sure its good for audio applications I'm assuming. I have wanted to try those Silent cables but knew there was some flaw or side effects to happen down the road. I have wanted to convert all my jacks on my guitars, amplifiers input jacks, guitar pedal jacks to PURE TONE jacks because they have dual tension grounds and dual tension positive tips which in the youtube videos have made the fidelity a big difference from 20hz to 20Khz that other jacks roll off the top high end and bottom low end. Have you checked out or used the PURE TONE Jacks?
@@waynegram8907 and the Tone Jacks...could be good, this is part of the reason why I use TRS jacks instead of TS to get more contact with the plugs and tension even with a mono guitar cable. They could also be problematic. I need to check them out - I'll order some and report back.
Assuming all solders are done correctly , is 24/26 ft lenght cable ok before start losing signal ? Also, should we expect to read 0 Ohms when measuring a cable of that lenght ? Thanks Mason
Are the Vertex pancake instrument cables sold at Sweetwater sold individually or as a patch (like the 4 inch ones)? Cause they’re expensive, but I understand, they are handmade.
Dude, if You know of a Radio Shack that's still in operation; you gotta give the location of it out so we all can raid the place! Online outlets pretty much did them in; but I miss The Shack--just something about stalking through the aisles, and finding something not on your list, but you just gotta have once you find it... Ahhh, good times...
Radio Shack stopped catering to electronics and started focusing on phones and stuff, last time I was in one, they didn't have any of the regular cable adapters in stock, basic Y's etc. or any little motors and fun stuff. Probably why they went under.
🤔Since solder doesn't stick to steel very well at all, wouldn't it be best to rough-up the surface of the contact points with some fine grit sandpaper or some steel wool? It might make for some better longevity, no? Your advice to get a good soldering iron is spot-on. You need good reliable heat for this.
Firstly, holy crud, I wish this video existed when I first tried to make my own cables a couple years ago. Secondly, I had never heard someone explain that there was a difference between “patch” and “instrument” cables. Thirdly, I use mogami 2524 for both patch and instrument cables, is there any downside to this? It’s only for studio use, not for gigs, etc.
I’m trying to make some cables as Christmas presents for friends, and im struggling getting the boot to work with heat shrink and techflex… any advice?
It's tricky...often folks will electrical tape and heatshrink the techflex where it meets the edge of the cable after the tech flex is already put on the cable and the boot is slid way down. It's easier to slide the boot over the tech flex if you have maybe 4-6" of excess on the end that you can squeeze into a tight bundle to slide the hole of the boot through and then cut down the tech flex as desired.
Howdy Mason, enjoyed all the videos so far. Ya got to be bizee and I noticed Flux was not mentioned while you're Tinning solder connections... Myself use a Pink liquid Flux made by FORENEY ... Is there a reason to use or Not to use? Thank u for all you share with your enthusiasm.
A few months ago KDH did a sound demo between different cable sizes , one was sold as a guitar cable and the other a bass cable but I don't think he really understood why the size difference had an impact on sound quality. Brands aside , what's your take on cable impendence and AWG sizes when compared to sound quality and signal loss ? I ask because as a radio operator I have a few hundred feet of RG58 (AWG 20 same as the Mogami 2524 ) and RG8 ( AWG 11) ,both rated at 50 ohms , cable from old antennas and would like to put it use .
The diameter is meaningless. There are low capacitance cables that are super thin, like George L's. There are thick cables that have super high capacitance, like Belden 8412. The composition of the cable is more important than how thick it is. Often the really thick cables can just be the diameter of the insulators and not indicative of the wire thickness of the center conductor or the shield. I haven't watched the video so I can't speak to their goal or intent or process, but I wouldn't pick a cable based on the thickness of the overall cable.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks , at first I was thinking the 8 would be better , but it does have about double the outer insulation that hates the cold , with winter coming it'd take me an hour to unroll them .
In practice, you lose highs and high mids with longer cables. The reason why that happens...You'll have to ask an electronics engineer. As per cable thickness, that will also determine the resistance of the cable and how much voltage can go through it. Guitars generate 1v at most, with basses going a bit more if they're active.
I'm shocked that there is no strain relief on the Neutrik plugs...is the solder the only thing holding the cable to the plug? And if so, is it strong enough?
You have strain relief in multiple places. 1) the hard plastic support internally that fastens onto the cable over the solder joints. 2) You have the rubber boot that butts up against the hard plastic support to eliminate lateral movement and squeeze the plastic support teeth to protect against a pull. It's more than sufficient and is a very well made plug.
I think I said what the gauge was in the video, I don’t recall off the top of my head but basically it’s better to start bigger and then work to smaller if you’re unsure
I am using SP500 ends, and my ground is fine, but my tip is not reading, my solder points look fine. Any tips? My ground is reading under 1 ohm, but my lead is 4-5 and up. Im using 2314
I have question. Have you touched on if wireless guitar systems have any tone suck compared to a good cable. I recently bought two wireless systems, a kind of middle of road Boss WL50 and a less expensive Swiff Audio WS-50 Blackwing. And I have ran into some issues with 5G cell phones affecting the connectivity of my Bluetooth pedal controllers and my wireless guitar system made by boss. the cheaper one seems to not have the same connectivity issues. But I hear differences and it feels a little different compared to a cable. So now I'm beginning to wonder whether or not having a wireless system is worth the effort. Just wondered what your thoughts were on this. I don't want to have to drop a $1000 on a wireless system to have success when I could simply pick up a 25ft $100 cable and be done with it.
When you say you don’t need all he shielding you actually do. I do this for living and over time the experience I’ve had is that if you have more shield wire soldered on the better it is. I also want to add on the topic of the connectors. The Neutrik silent plugs are as reliable as the normal plugs. We have cable in our inventory that are silent plug and we’ve had them for 6 year so call unreliable is not correct
Jonathan - This is a standard practice in the industry, not just me. On a quality cable, like Mogami 2524, the shield has to be large and thick to cover the center conductor fully. But you do not need that much wire at the ends where it connects to the 1/4" plugs. At the plug side, it is only the termination, the shield no longer covers the center conductor, the metal plug cover does that. A large shield has such low resistance that cutting a lot of it out will still be lower resistance than the center conductor. There is no loss in the shield quality when the ends are made acceptably thinner. This is basic physics you would get in 11th or 12th grade, and is not a unique opinion held by just me - this is fully substantiated scientifically. Just think about it, every strand of the shield is making contact inside the cable, so every one wire is in contact with every other wire inside of the cable outer insulator. With regard tot he Neutrik Silent Plugs, they are less reliable, the mechanism does fail over time and this is substantiated by our reps/distributors that provide our plugs and our colleagues using thousands of these every month, like Best-Tonics, CBI Cables, and other huge shops that have silent plug failures 10x the non-silent varieties. This isn't just Neutrik, pretty much all silent plugs have some longevity compromise because of the added mechanical features that are added.
@@VertexEffectsInc In my experience, the right angle Neutrik Silent plugs are worse than the straight ones. I've had a couple fail and I would never use them on stage. I've removed them from my cables and replaced them with the normal Neutrik right angle plugs. Since I like the look of red housing backs I kept them - they work with the non-Silent plugs!!
I won't use Neutrik Silent plugs anymore because they're unreliable, more than 10 silent plugs failed on me although I am really careful with my cables. I use Amphenol for years and never had any problems with them. Since that I avoid using any moveable parts like the Silent Plugs. About the cables I've built with Mogami, Tecniforte, Tasker, Gotham AG, Lava, Monster, but after years I prefer Reference Cables (made in Italy).
I would also advise against using Planet Waves' Circuit Breaker plugs. They are very nice plugs, but the switch is plastic and tends to break if you abuse it too much.
Lol when you said you run your iron at 700 degrees I was like WTF?!? I'm in the US but my Hakko clone that I've used for years building pedals and modding guitars and amps is only available in celcius and that's what I'm used to. I typically run it between 315 and 330 depending on what I'm soldering using leaded 63 37 No Clean or RA .81mm solder. So after hearing "700 degrees" it took me a couple seconds to remember my iron is in celcius. In fact I recommend running your soldering station in celcius since most solder is rated in degrees celcius. Using Fahrenheit seems to be less common and more confusing when looking through data sheets at melting points. But you could always just convert Celcius to Fahrenheit or vice versa. Also I agree with you about Neutrik/Rean. I get the Neutrik/Rean branded 1/4" Jack's for my pedal builds since they are cheap but quality robust jacks.
Since Weller is from the USA, they have degrees F as the primary and then have smaller degrees C in subscript. I like Neutrik for instrument cables, I don't like them for patch cables between pedals, they're not advantageous in that application.
( Celsius x 1.8 ) + 32 = Fahrenheit. Metric is popular because 0C is freezing an 100F is boiling, but Fahrenheit has 1.8 degrees for every degree metric has... ie: it's more granular.
@@TheMNB Is the formula really that simple? Lol how did I forget that. I hated math as a kid but in my late teens over a decade ago I realized how easy and enjoyable math is if you just use it for things you enjoy doing. I cant believe how simple the conversion is. Thanks for the info!
Hello, i just purchased a Mogami 2524 pre-made cable with amphenol nickel connectors, i have an identical one (same 2524, same lenght), the only difference is that this one has gold neutriks. The new one is surprisingly darker than the old one and in general sound worse. Do you think connectors affect the sound or maybe Mogami changed something in the 2524? I can't explain. Do you have any idea? Thanks you very much.
How are you testing it? The plug have a capacitance, but it's generally pretty negligible on one cable compared to another. The 2524 has been the same for decades.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thank you for the reply, i found the problem. The genius who soldered it didn't remove the black conductive wrap around the transparent plastic and soldered it all. Do you think i can remove it without unsoldering or do i need to unsolder and solder again? Thank you very much
Yeah that boot.... That moment you nail perfect looking solder joints with the 2nd cable connector and realize that bloody thing is resting on the table in front of you.
I tried to make my own "remote" pedal board input with a Switchcraft mono jack as the input, then soldering Mogami cable to an SP400 1/4 jack. For some reason the signal strength is less than a regular guitar cable by a lot. What did I do wrong?
@vertex Effects (or anyone in the comments section) I have a potentially dumb question. Can you build a ohm converter speaker cable? I bought a 2x12 Blackstar cab, and it has a 4 ohm our, or a 16 ohm out. All of my cabs run at 8 ohms, when I cracked open the back of the Blackstar the stock speakers are 16 ohm, I would have figured this would mean it would be an 8ohm out, but no. HELP!
We link the vice we used, but really any would work. 60/40 Kester solder, lead is necessary for best long term reliability. I only use ROHS compliant solder for export when it's required legally. Soldering station and materials are linked in the description.
@@VertexEffectsInc I found it :) Thanks for the tip on the solder. I think the Sn97Ag03 may be creating issues issues with some pickup/patch cable connections.
Instrument cable can be tricky at lengths longer than 6 meters ( 18 feet ). You loose clarity, as you know. I use XLR for distance longer than 6 meters.
I have a hard time not cutting a few of the middle copper wires when I strip the cable, is it a big deal ? Does the signal gets weaker or something like that ? I might buy some evidence audio cables instead and solder them to the squareplugs
I can not stress enough how important those strain-relief ears are on the Switchcraft-type plugs. They must be crunched down pretty tight. If not, you can get a bunch of movement inside the plug, and the failure mode I've seen most often with cables made using Switchcraft-type plugs is the center conductor breaking loose cause the cable moves around a ton due to the strain-relief ears not being clamped tight enough. I generally dislike the Switchcrafts cause of this (IMHO) design flaw. If I make cables for people, they get Neutriks...If I repair cables for someone and it shows up with Switchcraft-type ends, it gets Neutriks.
Josh, strain relief is critical, there are also some Switchcraft plugs that have longer clamps that are good for thicker cables so they really wrap around well. I think they have an "L" at the end of them, e.g. Switchcraft 280L. Soldered and assembled correctly I've found them to be very reliable - you can also add head shrink if you want to eliminate lateral movement, in most cases this is more likely than a pull (which is what the internal strain relief is really protecting against).
Mason, thanks so much for this video. Super informative. Some questions/requests for help. So I've constructed my own pedal board. On this pedal board, I've got 2 Cess 1/4 inch TRS jacks that I'm trying to wire up with Mogami 2524 bulk cables. One serving as an input jack, and the other an output jack. My goal, is to solder/connect the 2524 cable to the TRS jack on one end, and a neutrik right angle connector on the other. Is this possible? Do I have the right equipment? Sorry for the novel, just not finding any videos for this exact situation
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Soldering is my job. But i always say literally anybody can do it. The best advice I have for it is the same as anything else in life. Practice, with circuit boards I have people use junk boards and take parts on and off a bunch of times until they figure it out. Couple of days to a week and they are good to go on their own. Cables I would do the same thing. Start out repairing cables you would have thrown out and replaced anyway. Because you can’t break them anymore. Only make them unbroken
Well said!
I made some new cables and the volume was very low after testing….too much resistance? Not sure what I did wrong
What DIY videos do YOU want to see on our channel? Tell us in the comments below!
//pedalboard tools// bit.ly/3B7AEGq
Mogami 2524 Bulk: amzn.to/2WRc1zo
NEUTRIK
Straight: amzn.to/3abcVJY
Right Angle: amzn.to/2YoynIO
Silent Straight: amzn.to/3AhR26k
Silent Right: amzn.to/3lg7Cza
SWITCHCRAFT
Straight (280): amzn.to/3li3TBj
Right (226): amzn.to/3lgpcTO
Silent Straight (181): amzn.to/3ad6rdx
Table of Contents
00:00 Introduction
01:03 Cable Types
02:17 Required Gear/Materials
04:35 Neutrik Plugs
06:14 Neutrik Straight Tutorial
09:12 Neutrik Right-Angle Tutorial
11:14 Switchcraft Plugs
11:34 Switchcraft Straight Tutorial
14:05 Switchcraft Right-Angle Tutorial
16:53 Conclusion
It would be awesome if you did a “tools and techniques” overview. Soldering basics, how to read a multimeter, proper grounding, all the things.
I'm so grateful you're this responsive to feedback from us Mason. It might sound silly, but a DIY on putting velcro on nicely and neatly would be cool.
Otherwise, something like a training-wheels level explanation on the ROLES of inputs VS outputs and Sends vs Returns would be helpful. You've done numerous kitchen sink demos of the entire signal chain path...but breaking it down to an even more fundamental level would be helpful. Or even turning each into a metaphor as opposed to a schematic. I think in more abstract ways than an engineer.
Either way whatever you submit next will be fabulous. I'm in awe of how prolific your contribution has become. Seriously. Thanks for kicking ass and sharing something in such a thorough, trademark manner.
@@brendanrodgers4401 we have a bit of that throughout the DIY cables videos :)
@@patrickcarroll1754 Good call!
I REALLY want to see DIY videos on XLR and TRS cables. Also, Y cable for pedals with TRS inputs. Thanks!
Soon lauching my pedalboard assembly activity, thanks to you.
I now have the right tools for the right job, with all the knowledge you share.
Cheers Dr Mason
Fantastic!
made my own cable last year, was a really awesome process. learned how to solder which is a great skill. Awesome!
Great to hear!
Enjoying your content and info. I am building a small rig for busking.
Making a cable with guitar and my ear monitors in it together, keep my connection on street tight. Using a 5 wire shielded midi cable.
@@FrugalFixerSpike Nice! Thanks for watching!
flashbacks to my Briss. Clean the tip, cut the sleeve, etc..
Ha!
I recently bought a super nice pair of wire snips. German I believe. They were pricey but so awesome. Well worth the money. Quality tools are so worth it.
Right on
Finally bit the bullet and replaced the mismatched, acquired over decades, cables in my 4-cable system with 2524 and Neutrik plugs. All the tips in this video made it an easy process. This is the part while all the dog-eared, cork-sniffing, audiophile types normally extol the articulate nature of the sound, but, you know, it actually does sound better, no kidding.
One tip that might be useful to others; Mason talks about cutting a bit off of the Neutrik strain relief. I found that in my case, yeah with 2524, the struggle is real, and it's otherwise hard to get the nut to seat properly; you have to really torque it. However, it's just the last quarter to half-turn that was the issue for me; it's hard to turn by hand for that last bit. What I found was that common spark plug pliers, the type that have rubberized padding on the jaws, work perfectly for this.
I should also note that Neutrik's instructions do state that "If using a cable with O.D. > 5.50 mm [0.216”] break off marked part of the chuck", and 2524 is 6.0 mm, [0.236"], so you should listen to him, not me, but, just sayin', it's pretty close, I mean, half a millimeter isn't much, really.
Great video!! I've been working in electronics in Silicon Valley for over 30 years = your video is spot on! One additional use for shrink wrap is to color code the ends of the cable in case you have several long cable runs.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Been doing this since the early 70's and I do it exactly the same way you do. I use Belden 8412 because I have EMG pickups in most of my guitars and run the Belden into an EMG Battery Box so I need TRS cable. One thing that I like are the Switchcraft pancake (flat) plugs because they are almost flush with the guitar and I play in a chair and like to rest my guitar at about a 60º angle (sort of like a classical guitar) on my leg. If your guitar has a front loaded jack (Strat, Mustang, Duosonic, etc.) this doesn't apply. One thing that you will have to do if you use a recessed jack plate (tele) is change the jack in your guitar to a Switchcraft longer barrel style.
Thanks for watching Bruce!
Thanks Mason. It never occurred to me to build my own cables. But after your thorough and informative video, it looks relatively easy with the right tools. Will be nice to have a cleaner setup.
Glad I could help!
It is super easy! I was apprehensive but watched a lot of Rig DR videos and have now made over 30 patch cables and several guitar cables. I saved a lot of $, spent a lot too but came out way ahead. I bought the recommended solder iron and accessories. That iron alone makes all the difference in the world!
Another very informative, detailed and to the point video. Great job!
Glad it helped!
Man, I love these videos! Great teaching Mason!
Glad you like them!
You helped correct some things that have caused me problems for years. Thank you!
Happy to help!
This video is extremely helpful. Thank you for your service to the community Mason!
❤️❤️❤️
Man, you're such an amazing teacher! I am so grateful for what I learn in your videos. ❤
Wow, thank you!
@@VertexEffectsInc well deserved, friend.
Morning Mason, just started a select playlist of your “How to…” and this gets added along with Patch Cables, and a couple other. I noticed in the Patch cable vid you used the slot provided on a solder tab to feed the tinned shield through and back over before a final flow. The reason given I believe was strength of connx. Although I didn’t see a similar slot on the shield tab on either the Neutrik or Switchcraft, would you use that same technique when building a guitar cable if it were available, almost a secondary strain relief as it were.
You can use the hole, it depends on the thickness of the wire, it can be difficult with thicker wires to fit through. I generally default to the way that puts the least stress on the cable and by extension the solder joint. If you're forced to have an extreme angle on a cable just to say you fit it into the hole of the solder lug, that's not going to help you much and will do more harm than good.
Great video and well done. I'm interested to do my own cables. Great share! Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
im a journeyman metal fabricator - ive been soldering architectual sheet metal - copper, brass , ss, galv but - these electronic stuff is a different animal - but you have to have the tools - "There is a Tool For Every Job - Use it " is a montra i have written on my tool box - hopefully i can do this
Thank you for this video and the patch cable one! Just received my 50ft of Mogami 2524; 6ft of Mogami 2314; Neutrik jacks and a 10 pack Square Plugs SP400s. All ordered from Performance Audio per your recommendation on another video. Spent roughly $100 and about to make some quality cables for both me and my daughters guitar rigs. Time to fire up that soldering iron! Cheers and thank you from the North Bay 🍻
Great work!!!
Looks like that Neutrik model is weak against pulls. Only plastic holding the cable. Should've been metal that can be bent slightly to bite into the jacket. Are there other Neutrik that does this? I don't really trust plastics.
@@bassyey That's nonsense. The plastic teeth/sleeves are sandwiched between the metal housing and cable jacket. It's well suited to this compressive load application.
Excelente informacion, muchas gracias por compartir saludos desde Mexico
Excellent information, thank you very much for sharing greetings from Mexico
Thank you for watching!
Thanks!
Great instructional video. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Questions Mason: is the 60/40 Kester Solder also used to connect Guitar pickups, volume & tone pots? Great presentation = extremely informative video. Enjoyed it brother. oNe LovE from NYC
Yes, this could be used across the board the only thing I might change is the diameter, but even in the worst case you could always double it over if you need a thicker solder
@@VertexEffectsInc Thank you sir. Appreciate you sharing the knowledge.
@@michael_caz_nyc anytime!
@vertex effects, Mason I can’t recall in which vid you asked for suggestion. I’d be very much interested in a video about Expression pedals, volume pedals. So much still unexplained, at least clearly, as how, where they are placed in the signal chain (semi loaded trick question there), wired in, and or used with switchers. Just my suggestion. Keoki
See our signal path videos.
@@VertexEffectsInc I did, thanks! The expression pedal remains a source of perplexion. Some are $150+ others are $80 ( or less). I realize MIDI can be part of the more expensive but EXP placement options seems to be legion.
@@geo5772 expression is typically relegated to a specific parameter of a specific device. Some rigs with switchers and MIDI pedals can assign the expressions to multiple pedals depending on the preset or you can get something like the Mission Expressionator to have an ABC switch to switch on EXP pedal into 3 devices. Generally, all EXP pedals are functionally the same, and generally the quality of the materials accounts for the up-charge. They're all normally 10K linear pots.
I had a pedal cable that sounded muffled(dark) and thanks to you I was able to do a clean connection that solved the problem.
Now I'm thinking of buying some broken cables for dirt cheap and re solder them :p
Could be good, could also be risky if you don't know if that's the issue to resolve.
@@VertexEffectsInc the issue could be one of three:
- cable cut or broken (meaning I need to shorten the cable)
- shorted out
- broken lead/shield connection
I can't think of any other issues, let me know if I'm missing something
@@bilalnachabeh it'll just be variable and if it's a break in the cable you might have to sacrifice length. You may also have to get new plugs if that's the problem - that's the most costly part to repair as bulk cable is pretty negligible price wise.
I find it very interesting that (from what it looks like) that you don’t pass the wires through the eyelets of the jacks. Is there any disadvantages from doing it this way?
I think it’s stupid ✅ he only solders about 1/8” 😂
Love these DIY videos!
Glad you like them!
PLEAAAAAAAAASE can you show us how to make XLR cables and what to buy to make them
Hi, Rig Doctor
Thank you for your trick.
I have question about signal flow in cable, It should be concern this issue when I connect from guitar to Amplifier?
What do you mean, signal flow in the cable?
Switchcraft Phone connectors like many other brands use a riveted solder tab which just invites intermittent faults and high impedance and open circuit issue. This type of connector cause more trouble and lost business than you could ever save on cost. Just chuck the dam things out & go with Neutrik because those solder directly to the actual tip and sleave so there are no secondary contact surfaces to cause issues.
In XLRs though, you pretty much always solder directly to the pin & receiver so you have a much wider choice for reliability.
The only thing with all connectors, it is far better to use a metal body that you can ground because the connections with the plug will not be shielded unless you do this. So no plastic body plugs at all as they cause noise, as do thin and poorly shielded cabling. Good cabling has published shielding and impedance specs. So use something that you know the performance of. You can get really nice high spec pro instrument cable for around 1$ per foot.
In terms of fall out, when consulting with the big boys that are shipping tens of thousands of these yearly (Best Tronics, CBI, etc.), they're about neck and neck, and among the silent version Switchcraft outperforms Neutrik in failures the last few years. I think it's a toss up in the end for each, they both have their advantages. Another good one that we didn't mention, but less common is Amphenol. Nothing mentioned here is plastic housed, and the cable is all Mogami 2524, all shielded and under $1/ft. as stated in the video.
I'd be careful with Neutriks. They tend to not take well to being stepped on.
@@BrunodeSouzaLinoWell who does really?
Do I have any intention of making my own instrument cables? No. Will I watch a 19 minute video about making my own instrument cables? Absolutely I will.
Ha! Thanks for going to down the rabbit hole with us!
nice, very complete video, thanks rig doc
Hey there! I was wondering if you knew of any brands that might sell different colored cables by the foot so i can make different color patch cables and instrument cables. I've done some googling and can't seem to find anything, Thanks Mason!
Canare, Mogami, BTPA sell colors of the same cable.
mogami makes different colored boots for their cables, so you could still have a black cable, but also have colored indicators on the connectors themselves
Van Damme XKE is also a popular choice.
Nice vid. Where did you get the stationary vice grip from? The link is not in the description.
I’m not sure if this is the one in the video but there’s a company called Panavise with a bunch of handy electronics vises like the one shown!
Excellent video and great information!
I am currently using 2 of the 12 foot Mogami Platinum from guitar to the pedalboard and from the end of the of the pedalboard to my input amplifier and I really love the great sound quality of these cables…they make my electric guitar a different instrument than was before…now the tone has a clear crystal sound,warm,silent interruptor system and so neat even when I use distortion pedals effects…what do you think about the Mogami Platinum cables Mason?are they a good choice?
I think they're Mogami 2524 as I recall, that's a nice cable.
Great material, thanks a lot!
Did I miss the multimeter bit and how to test cables?
Should be on there. Set it to Ohms and it should read "0" when you put the problems tip to tip or sleeve to sleeve.
This video is very helpful. Thanks a lot !!!
I've had my silent Neutriik plugs on all my cables for year(s) with absolutely no reliability issues.
Better do the sign of the cross before each gig, they're handy but on borrowed time.
Great vid. Is liquid flux necessary? I’ve seen it used in other videos.
No need
Hey Mason,
Quick question for the Neutrik plugs, do you drill the boot to the OD of the cable your using? Just wanted to double check before I do something that can’t be undone. Thanks great video
The Neutrik should be able to stretch to meet most cable thicknesses. What cable are you using?
I’m using van damme pro OD is 6mm which seems to be the same as the mogami. I’ll try again, sorry first time cable builder. Thanks for your help
@@jonlanning8973 Sure thing. You might need to clip off some of the strain relief tab, the hard plastic piece that is internal. We talk about this in the video as well and show it.
Trimming the tab and using such a small contact on the solder joint is asking for failure. Cutting away half of the shield makes for a weaker connection too. The clamp on the Switchcraft is mad to go around the cable not just squeezed on the side of the cable. This is bad advice for building cables. I have been building my own cables for 50 years and have had one fail because I repeatedly pulled it out of my volume pedal by the cable. I only use Switchcraft plugs. I used to use Belden cable but now use Canare. Switchcraft is the only plug that won't tarnish.
I'm a proponent of strong mechanical connections before solder is applied... workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/616%20Service%20Lead%20Splices.html
I guess in the case of what's shown in the video, as long as the strain relief holds up and the two surfaces are free of all contaminates, then it should be fine, but I would have loved to at least see the wire go through a hole for the tip connection, and maybe a bit more of the shield wire left on to increase the bond on the ring connection.
Great vid! So clear and concise.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome! Would have wanted the camera to be closer to see it better though. Nevertheless, this is super helpful thanks
Noted!
Nice vid. Do you ever have to sand/abrade the plating on Switchcraft type plugs to get the solder to "stick"?
I don't, and if it's not stick you can use some flux. It won't hurt if you wanted to hit it with some sand paper, but I've had maybe 1-2 instances ever where the plating flaked off at the solder joint in over 12 years.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks for that, I had a time when I just couldn't get any lead based solder and ended-up with a spool of some nonsense that actually makes good joints (never had a fail) but flows like cold toffee and just doesn't want to stick to Switchcraft hardware - not a problem with Neutrik plugs (which I use 99% of the time anyway). Thanks and take care, Andi
I like that Mogami 2524 cable. It feels durable and is of good quality for the price. I’ll probably never buy a cable off the shelf again now that I’ve made my own cables.
Absolutely!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I like the silent plug from Neutrik, but it isn't really needed since most rigs have a tuner which will mute the signal and stop the "pop" from unplugging. I think it'd be nice for open mic venues where people don't wait for the sound guy before unplugging though.
They're nice to have in many cases, just not as robust as the non-silent versions.
So TRS plugs require a different coaxial cable? I want to make a 4CM snake like you showed in another video but I need one of the cables to be TRS for channel switching. I take it the Canare cable you recommend in that video won’t work for TRS, is that correct?
Anything that’s three conductor and fits through the boot opening should work
As always a very useful and informative video. This is great information and I’m going to start making my own cables. I’ve been soldering and playing guitar for over 30 years on and off and I think it’s time I start making my own cables. I guess I’ve been lazy 😆
Me: I need a guitar cable
Guitar Center:
Me:
Guitar Center: >:(
Me:
Guitar Center: here is your receipt, have a rockin' day!
Hope you get into soldering. You can also buy most of the raw materials for cable and plugs at GC if you prefer.
Loving the new hair!
Just trimmed off a few inches at the bottom, I will be back in no time
I need some clarification. In the beginning you refer to the difference in thickness between patch cables between the pedals and the cable from your guitar to the board. Is there a difference between the part numbers W2524 and just 2524. In the video about making pedal board jumpers you reference the W2524. Im just confused because it seems a lot of the websites use the parts interchangeable in the title. I just wanted to make sure there are 2 different cables I am looking for, and not just doing endless circles on the internet for a cable that doesnt exist lol. For reference: the amazon link has this in the title "Mogami 2524 Guitar & Instrument Cable - Bulk W2524 - Sold in 50 FT Lengths"
2524 is the same as W2524...same product. Normally the leading letter is omitted.
What are the best wire strippers that you use? because most don't cut into the wire good and strip the wire will only strip away a portion or half of the insulation which is a pain to strip the wire. I have never thought about cutting off the soldering TIP Tab that has the hole because I have always used a J-Hook in the soldering terminal hole for Class regulations. Since its Audio the Class Regulations don't apply but can't be used in other applications because QC/QA will not pass this type of work. But I'm sure its good for audio applications I'm assuming. I have wanted to try those Silent cables but knew there was some flaw or side effects to happen down the road. I have wanted to convert all my jacks on my guitars, amplifiers input jacks, guitar pedal jacks to PURE TONE jacks because they have dual tension grounds and dual tension positive tips which in the youtube videos have made the fidelity a big difference from 20hz to 20Khz that other jacks roll off the top high end and bottom low end. Have you checked out or used the PURE TONE Jacks?
I list them in the links in the video.
@@VertexEffectsInc ok thanks I will check them out
@@waynegram8907 and the Tone Jacks...could be good, this is part of the reason why I use TRS jacks instead of TS to get more contact with the plugs and tension even with a mono guitar cable. They could also be problematic. I need to check them out - I'll order some and report back.
Assuming all solders are done correctly , is 24/26 ft lenght cable ok before start losing signal ? Also, should we expect to read 0 Ohms when measuring a cable of that lenght ?
Thanks Mason
I can't answer your question, but..
ulver ❤
Did I miss the part of using the test meter or was it omitted from the video?? Thanks
What do you do for van den hul cables? They’re thick!!
Are the Vertex pancake instrument cables sold at Sweetwater sold individually or as a patch (like the 4 inch ones)? Cause they’re expensive, but I understand, they are handmade.
They're sold as individual cables, all handmade, one at a time, by my brother Adam (aka The Rig Nurse) with a lifetime warranty.
@@VertexEffectsInc makes sense. Thanks man.
How do you solder Belden 8412? I believe it has 2 conductors. Enjoyed your video BTW!!
We have a video on it...check it out! I think it's titled around "Pete Cornish Cables"
@@VertexEffectsInc Thank You for your reply. I'll check that out!
Dude, if You know of a Radio Shack that's still in operation; you gotta give the location of it out so we all can raid the place! Online outlets pretty much did them in; but I miss The Shack--just something about stalking through the aisles, and finding something not on your list, but you just gotta have once you find it... Ahhh, good times...
I don't know of any that are still in operation.
If there is a Vetco in your area they are awesome! Great selection, reasonable prices, basically a Radio Shack of today. Good luck.
Radio Shack stopped catering to electronics and started focusing on phones and stuff, last time I was in one, they didn't have any of the regular cable adapters in stock, basic Y's etc. or any little motors and fun stuff. Probably why they went under.
🤔Since solder doesn't stick to steel very well at all, wouldn't it be best to rough-up the surface of the contact points with some fine grit sandpaper or some steel wool? It might make for some better longevity, no?
Your advice to get a good soldering iron is spot-on. You need good reliable heat for this.
Gracias profe !!
Thanks for watching!
What is the wire stripper gauge size of the outer jacket of the 2524 cable?
Firstly, holy crud, I wish this video existed when I first tried to make my own cables a couple years ago. Secondly, I had never heard someone explain that there was a difference between “patch” and “instrument” cables. Thirdly, I use mogami 2524 for both patch and instrument cables, is there any downside to this? It’s only for studio use, not for gigs, etc.
Really appreciate this video!
🙏🙏🙏
I’m trying to make some cables as Christmas presents for friends, and im struggling getting the boot to work with heat shrink and techflex… any advice?
It's tricky...often folks will electrical tape and heatshrink the techflex where it meets the edge of the cable after the tech flex is already put on the cable and the boot is slid way down. It's easier to slide the boot over the tech flex if you have maybe 4-6" of excess on the end that you can squeeze into a tight bundle to slide the hole of the boot through and then cut down the tech flex as desired.
@@VertexEffectsInc thank you for always being willing to share your experience!
Neutrik provides assembly instructions with exact cutting length for both sleeves on the cable, no need to be guessing and measure twice-cut once
Link? I've not seen this, but next time we do a video on this, I'll certainly post :)
oops, that wont work.
Howdy Mason, enjoyed all the videos so far. Ya got to be bizee and I noticed Flux was not mentioned while you're Tinning solder connections... Myself use a Pink liquid Flux made by FORENEY ... Is there a reason to use or Not to use?
Thank u for all you share with your enthusiasm.
Shouldn't be necessary for this.
Thank you Kind Sir
Whose garage are you guys operating out of?
The garage at my house :)
@@VertexEffectsInc Awesome!
A few months ago KDH did a sound demo between different cable sizes , one was sold as a guitar cable and the other a bass cable but I don't think he really understood why the size difference had an impact on sound quality. Brands aside , what's your take on cable impendence and AWG sizes when compared to sound quality and signal loss ? I ask because as a radio operator I have a few hundred feet of RG58 (AWG 20 same as the Mogami 2524 ) and RG8 ( AWG 11) ,both rated at 50 ohms , cable from old antennas and would like to put it use .
The diameter is meaningless. There are low capacitance cables that are super thin, like George L's. There are thick cables that have super high capacitance, like Belden 8412. The composition of the cable is more important than how thick it is. Often the really thick cables can just be the diameter of the insulators and not indicative of the wire thickness of the center conductor or the shield. I haven't watched the video so I can't speak to their goal or intent or process, but I wouldn't pick a cable based on the thickness of the overall cable.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks , at first I was thinking the 8 would be better , but it does have about double the outer insulation that hates the cold , with winter coming it'd take me an hour to unroll them .
In practice, you lose highs and high mids with longer cables. The reason why that happens...You'll have to ask an electronics engineer. As per cable thickness, that will also determine the resistance of the cable and how much voltage can go through it. Guitars generate 1v at most, with basses going a bit more if they're active.
I'm shocked that there is no strain relief on the Neutrik plugs...is the solder the only thing holding the cable to the plug? And if so, is it strong enough?
You have strain relief in multiple places. 1) the hard plastic support internally that fastens onto the cable over the solder joints. 2) You have the rubber boot that butts up against the hard plastic support to eliminate lateral movement and squeeze the plastic support teeth to protect against a pull. It's more than sufficient and is a very well made plug.
When you’re stripping the outer layer what gauge on the wire strippers are you using?
I think I said what the gauge was in the video, I don’t recall off the top of my head but basically it’s better to start bigger and then work to smaller if you’re unsure
Guys, your channel rules. Liked and sub'd. LESS GOOOOO
I am using SP500 ends, and my ground is fine, but my tip is not reading, my solder points look fine. Any tips? My ground is reading under 1 ohm, but my lead is 4-5 and up. Im using 2314
Could be how you have the sensitivity of your meter set. Did you try the buzzing feature? Have you sound checked the cables?
4:06 0.08mm solder is rather thin lol
You can always double it up or go thicker if you want. That's what I'm using in the video.
What is the recommended cable length ? 10 ft , 15 ft etc?
Shorter you can get away with the better typically.
Can't i just use standard antenna RG6 coaxial cables?
Sure...but it's not that great for a pedalboard, it's pretty inflexible.
I have question. Have you touched on if wireless guitar systems have any tone suck compared to a good cable. I recently bought two wireless systems, a kind of middle of road Boss WL50 and a less expensive Swiff Audio WS-50 Blackwing. And I have ran into some issues with 5G cell phones affecting the connectivity of my Bluetooth pedal controllers and my wireless guitar system made by boss. the cheaper one seems to not have the same connectivity issues. But I hear differences and it feels a little different compared to a cable. So now I'm beginning to wonder whether or not having a wireless system is worth the effort. Just wondered what your thoughts were on this. I don't want to have to drop a $1000 on a wireless system to have success when I could simply pick up a 25ft $100 cable and be done with it.
Wireless is always a compromise. They've come a long way but still they don't sound like a cable totally. I like the Shure stuff these days best.
I had a feeling you we're going to say that. Wireless is convenient but far from perfect.
When you say you don’t need all he shielding you actually do. I do this for living and over time the experience I’ve had is that if you have more shield wire soldered on the better it is.
I also want to add on the topic of the connectors. The Neutrik silent plugs are as reliable as the normal plugs. We have cable in our inventory that are silent plug and we’ve had them for 6 year so call unreliable is not correct
Jonathan - This is a standard practice in the industry, not just me. On a quality cable, like Mogami 2524, the shield has to be large and thick to cover the center conductor fully. But you do not need that much wire at the ends where it connects to the 1/4" plugs. At the plug side, it is only the termination, the shield no longer covers the center conductor, the metal plug cover does that. A large shield has such low resistance that cutting a lot of it out will still be lower resistance than the center conductor. There is no loss in the shield quality when the ends are made acceptably thinner. This is basic physics you would get in 11th or 12th grade, and is not a unique opinion held by just me - this is fully substantiated scientifically. Just think about it, every strand of the shield is making contact inside the cable, so every one wire is in contact with every other wire inside of the cable outer insulator. With regard tot he Neutrik Silent Plugs, they are less reliable, the mechanism does fail over time and this is substantiated by our reps/distributors that provide our plugs and our colleagues using thousands of these every month, like Best-Tonics, CBI Cables, and other huge shops that have silent plug failures 10x the non-silent varieties. This isn't just Neutrik, pretty much all silent plugs have some longevity compromise because of the added mechanical features that are added.
@@VertexEffectsInc In my experience, the right angle Neutrik Silent plugs are worse than the straight ones. I've had a couple fail and I would never use them on stage. I've removed them from my cables and replaced them with the normal Neutrik right angle plugs. Since I like the look of red housing backs I kept them - they work with the non-Silent plugs!!
Is it normal that 2 homemade cables with the same neutriks, same cable and same length to sound slightly different? And one of them is noiser?
I won't use Neutrik Silent plugs anymore because they're unreliable, more than 10 silent plugs failed on me although I am really careful with my cables. I use Amphenol for years and never had any problems with them. Since that I avoid using any moveable parts like the Silent Plugs. About the cables I've built with Mogami, Tecniforte, Tasker, Gotham AG, Lava, Monster, but after years I prefer Reference Cables (made in Italy).
They all have their problems, I only use them if I have to (silent plugs).
I would also advise against using Planet Waves' Circuit Breaker plugs. They are very nice plugs, but the switch is plastic and tends to break if you abuse it too much.
@@BrunodeSouzaLino that's the problem with moveable parts, someday they will have problems with material fatigue.
Lol when you said you run your iron at 700 degrees I was like WTF?!? I'm in the US but my Hakko clone that I've used for years building pedals and modding guitars and amps is only available in celcius and that's what I'm used to. I typically run it between 315 and 330 depending on what I'm soldering using leaded 63 37 No Clean or RA .81mm solder. So after hearing "700 degrees" it took me a couple seconds to remember my iron is in celcius. In fact I recommend running your soldering station in celcius since most solder is rated in degrees celcius. Using Fahrenheit seems to be less common and more confusing when looking through data sheets at melting points. But you could always just convert Celcius to Fahrenheit or vice versa. Also I agree with you about Neutrik/Rean. I get the Neutrik/Rean branded 1/4" Jack's for my pedal builds since they are cheap but quality robust jacks.
Since Weller is from the USA, they have degrees F as the primary and then have smaller degrees C in subscript. I like Neutrik for instrument cables, I don't like them for patch cables between pedals, they're not advantageous in that application.
( Celsius x 1.8 ) + 32 = Fahrenheit. Metric is popular because 0C is freezing an 100F is boiling, but Fahrenheit has 1.8 degrees for every degree metric has... ie: it's more granular.
@@TheMNB Is the formula really that simple? Lol how did I forget that. I hated math as a kid but in my late teens over a decade ago I realized how easy and enjoyable math is if you just use it for things you enjoy doing. I cant believe how simple the conversion is. Thanks for the info!
Hello, i just purchased a Mogami 2524 pre-made cable with amphenol nickel connectors, i have an identical one (same 2524, same lenght), the only difference is that this one has gold neutriks. The new one is surprisingly darker than the old one and in general sound worse. Do you think connectors affect the sound or maybe Mogami changed something in the 2524? I can't explain. Do you have any idea? Thanks you very much.
How are you testing it? The plug have a capacitance, but it's generally pretty negligible on one cable compared to another. The 2524 has been the same for decades.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thank you for the reply, i found the problem. The genius who soldered it didn't remove the black conductive wrap around the transparent plastic and soldered it all. Do you think i can remove it without unsoldering or do i need to unsolder and solder again? Thank you very much
Yeah that boot.... That moment you nail perfect looking solder joints with the 2nd cable connector and realize that bloody thing is resting on the table in front of you.
It's the worst, but still happens to me every now and again :)
Neutrik's all the way ☆
Not the silent ones!
@@VertexEffectsInc why not the silent ones?
@@San-gr2wv durability issue i guess
I tried to make my own "remote" pedal board input with a Switchcraft mono jack as the input, then soldering Mogami cable to an SP400 1/4 jack. For some reason the signal strength is less than a regular guitar cable by a lot. What did I do wrong?
If you don't remove the conductive plastic on the Mogami cable, you can have this problem.
@vertex Effects (or anyone in the comments section) I have a potentially dumb question. Can you build a ohm converter speaker cable? I bought a 2x12 Blackstar cab, and it has a 4 ohm our, or a 16 ohm out. All of my cabs run at 8 ohms, when I cracked open the back of the Blackstar the stock speakers are 16 ohm, I would have figured this would mean it would be an 8ohm out, but no.
HELP!
ask this on r/pedalboards if your problem hasn't been solved yet
Absolutely perfect video! Thanks for this!!
Panavice?
Also opinions on lead-free solder?
Soldering station preference?
Also I love this vid
We link the vice we used, but really any would work. 60/40 Kester solder, lead is necessary for best long term reliability. I only use ROHS compliant solder for export when it's required legally. Soldering station and materials are linked in the description.
@@VertexEffectsInc must have missed the links!
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks for the reply!
@@stephengarrison172 sure thing! Let me know if you don't see the info.
@@VertexEffectsInc I found it :) Thanks for the tip on the solder. I think the Sn97Ag03 may be creating issues issues with some pickup/patch cable connections.
I am using 20ft Mogami 2524 cable with Neutrik plug jack, but I feel the tone it's so muddy/treble loss, anyone same case with me about this stuff?
Instrument cable can be tricky at lengths longer than 6 meters ( 18 feet ). You loose clarity, as you know.
I use XLR for distance longer than 6 meters.
Did you peel back all the black insulator? That is almost always the problem when people say mogami sounds muddy
I feel like soldering should be taught in grade school just like typing and gluing. It should be a required skill for at least middle schoolers
Agreed
Very helpful video. Thank you!
I have a hard time not cutting a few of the middle copper wires when I strip the cable, is it a big deal ? Does the signal gets weaker or something like that ? I might buy some evidence audio cables instead and solder them to the squareplugs
A+++ content.
Thanks for watching!
I can not stress enough how important those strain-relief ears are on the Switchcraft-type plugs. They must be crunched down pretty tight. If not, you can get a bunch of movement inside the plug, and the failure mode I've seen most often with cables made using Switchcraft-type plugs is the center conductor breaking loose cause the cable moves around a ton due to the strain-relief ears not being clamped tight enough. I generally dislike the Switchcrafts cause of this (IMHO) design flaw. If I make cables for people, they get Neutriks...If I repair cables for someone and it shows up with Switchcraft-type ends, it gets Neutriks.
Josh, strain relief is critical, there are also some Switchcraft plugs that have longer clamps that are good for thicker cables so they really wrap around well. I think they have an "L" at the end of them, e.g. Switchcraft 280L. Soldered and assembled correctly I've found them to be very reliable - you can also add head shrink if you want to eliminate lateral movement, in most cases this is more likely than a pull (which is what the internal strain relief is really protecting against).
Which cable is the mogami platinum made from?
2524 I think?
700° F = 371.1° C
Mason, thanks so much for this video. Super informative. Some questions/requests for help. So I've constructed my own pedal board. On this pedal board, I've got 2 Cess 1/4 inch TRS jacks that I'm trying to wire up with Mogami 2524 bulk cables. One serving as an input jack, and the other an output jack. My goal, is to solder/connect the 2524 cable to the TRS jack on one end, and a neutrik right angle connector on the other. Is this possible? Do I have the right equipment? Sorry for the novel, just not finding any videos for this exact situation
Is this an insert cable??? For TRS you'd need 2552. If you're making a Y cable you need smaller cable, like the Mogami 2528.
I've checked it on Amazon, but it's not available and they doesn't know when it's on stuck again.
Which product?
Mogami 2524
@@jeffreymckeown there's a million places you can get it, just type it into Google.
@@VertexEffectsInc Ok bro. I'll try it