Oooh that's tough. For 3D sculpts I love Artisan Guild, as well as Loot. Lately I have been into metal minis, and I really like Otherworld Miniatures - they have very old school looking minis but are current. I also love a lot of the old stuff when I can get recent castings or old minis (Ral Partha, Grenadier).
Hmm, I think out of the most recent releases I’ve seen it’ll have to be between Mindwork Games, Black Crow Miniatures, and Hera Models but there are so many others that do high quality display pieces. Karol Rudyk Art has some stunning dragons, Spira Mirabilis puts a lot of character into the busts he does, and Black Sun Miniatures is going to have some new releases coming out soon that I’ll be excited to see.
New to your channel and a beginner at figure painting, I find this video one of the best for someone trying to understand the different techniques used. Thanks
If you haven't already bought into acrylics, I recommend giving oils some thought. A bit more buy-in, but as you advance as a painter, you'll find yourself fighting the medium less.
The one thing I notice people don't talk about when making these beginner videos, is cleaning the mini with a toothbrush and soap and water. It's mentioned here and there, but not often.
I recommend a reptile bulb for lighting. Not the heat lamp, but the full spectrum lightbulbs designed to reproduce sunlight’s natural spectral distribution. The ones specifically made to keep pet reptiles healthy are also the most accurate. They’re not cheap, but they have both fluorescent and LED bulbs so they’ll last you either a long time or until your cat pushes the lamp off the table.
Been in the hobby for decades. Still learn stuff from watching this channel. I've never heard of scoring plastic styrene to help make better joints using cement. But it's such an obviously good assembly hack. Some other random thoughts: You want to buy primer specifically. Some beginners will try "priming" using regular black paint. Not only does this not help the paint stick or go on smooth like this video shows, using regular paint doesn't seal the surface of the model. The main purpose of priming is to prevent materials within the model itself from causing discoloration over time (especially with plastic and clay) and to prevent outside elements from getting into the material. The main reason old models (as in lead models from the 70s and 80s) experience things like lead rot is because outside moisture seeps through the paint and into the metal. Using primer after washing your models prevents things like this from happening. Regular paint won't protect your models, especially if you're constantly handling them as game pieces in an environment that doesn't have climate control. Museums keep their paintings in good shape by controlling temperature and humidity. Your local game shop doesn't. Generally, mixing milliput and green stuff gives the benefits of both. You can get more detail sculpted, while also being able to sand the putty once it's cured. I've also been finding good success with procreate and Aves Apoxie. Procreate is good for doing really fine detail work. Aves is just good all-round. You'll need to experiment with different brands and types, mixing them together as necessary. I rarely use pure green stuff or pure milliput. I'd also recommend using Vaseline instead of water (unless you're trying to dissolve milliput so it gets into cracks/crevices or to make texture). Just remember to wipe your model off once the putty is cured so you don't accidentally have paint chip off after priming because the model has lubricate all over it.
I came to the hobby via Warhammer 40k, then started playing D&D so I discovered HeroForge. I then got a 3D printer because buying an STL on HeroForge was much cheaper than paying them to print it, so then I discovered Broken Anvil Miniatures which is my favorite mini studio for 3D printed minis. I also really enjoy One Page Rules for their alternate sculpts for Warhammer 40k and Age of Sigmar, or you could even play their games which are better than the Games Workshop games that inspired them.
This has to be the greatest video tutorial out there, I’ve searched for hours and hours is bar far the best thank you, I’m a beginner in painting minis
Lyla! You've build such a great resource for painters across the mini community, it's been so helpful to me to see clear examples of how to use a palette and layering. What I feel like I'm interested in seeing next is how you yourself solve certain problems etc. when you're painting a mini from start to finish. I feel like I get maybe 60% of the way there and because I don't have the foresight or experience, I get a little stuck and don't know how to go up to the "next level" of contrast to really finish the mini.
I think your explanation of layering and the color paper pyramid is probably the best and most succinct explanation I've seen. It really clicked for me.
Not a wargaming painter, mostly into military vehicles and the occasional Gundam, but have been watching various miniature painter channels for years now. This will definitely be a handy video if I ever decide to dabble in this side of the modeling hobby, thanks for making it!
Reaper, for sure, is my favorite. Good, reliable paint, terrific customer service, Kickstarters consistently provide good value. I like that they have been experimenting with new materials. The community around Reaper is great.
My friend is going to start a dnd campaign next week. He’s the only member who actually has experience And the rest of us have never played. Thankfully however, I have been granted permission to buy and paint some miniatures, which I’ve always wanted to do. This will truly help me when I get started! It’s a new adventure and I am truly excited. Thanks!
Thanks for this video! I painted a couple minis in like 2003 but the industry wasn't big back then and I had no idea what I was doing. Now I can paint again with a little bit of knowledge
A timely video. I just finished building my first Tau Fire Warrior. It was quite a struggle getting both arms to line up at the shoulder, but the armor plate should cover that up. I'm going to build a few more and then begin painting. Thank you for all the great videos. Here goes nothin'!
Good summary, but I think everyone should know that you can mix miliput and green stuff and get the best of both worlds. When I learned that trick it was a game changer for me.
Excellent whole-coverage guide! If you ask me, I would add 1) sprue goo (you almost covered it) 2) thinning varnishes for brush and airbrush (and cover sating/gloss/matt) 3) hair dryer to fasten paint dry time 4) texture paints and under-feet stuff for fast creation of super simple but cute bases 5) hand mini drills (you shown) for magnets, armatures and barrels. That will be overkill guide that covers all hobby aspects I guess
Aaaand saved for future use. Fantastic video a wealth of info! Have never used greenstuff before to fill gaps so it was interesting to hear it tears when trying to sand it. Vallejo have a great putty in a tube with a fine tip & it drys quickly & is sandable. Also if you are new to painting you can also use a hair dryer to speed up the paint drying time(I'm a bit impatient), just don't have it too close to the miniture!
For great dry brushes I get makeup brushes at the dollar store. I can get a 3pack for a dollar and I get 3 diff size brushes. And makeup brushes are much softer bristles so it's easier to be more subtle
Great tutorial! I've been painting for years and learned some new items. But I recommend using distilled water instead of tap or bottle waters because the contents may contain minerals that might change the properties of the paint. hth
New here. I‘vw seen A LOT of videos about painting miniatures and I haven’t painted a single one yet lol. I’m about to dive into the hobby and trying to learn as much as possible before beginning.
Superb video as usual! I never get any texture from rattle can spray primers... The trick is to not hold them too far away. The paint has a lot of pripellant/solvent in the can and this evaporates quickly, especially in hot or dry climates (including air conditioning). If the paint spray dries in the air between nozzle and model then the half-dried droplets lay on top of each other on the model making a grainy texture. If the spray is still fully wet when it hits the model then it will self level as it is fully liquid and will be really smooth to show detail really well. Try holding the can nozzle closer to your models and you will eliminate the texture problem.
you can take some putty, make a big blob or a log and press your finger prints leaving finger prints all over it. Then you can just test your paint thinness on your finger log
Hi Lyla - I started mini painting 3 years ago, did it for a year and that paused (kids....:D). I sold all my stuff to make some quick money for other hobbies (okay, I do regret that a bit....:D). Now I get back into the hobby, and your video was very helpful to focus on the important things to re-stock. So: Thanks a lot, great video. I watched a lot of your videos before and for sure will do again ;) Love from Munich
this was SUPER informative! Thank you so much! I have been trying to find videos that detail a bunch of different techniques and you explained them all succinctly and with great visuals!
Great video Id only change using paper towel to the back of your free hand as when dry brushing and normal painting the paper towel takes too much moisture away.
I have to recommend Tamiya extra thin over pretty much any type of plastic cement. Just about any hobby store will stock it and it comes with a brush applicator so its very easy to control how much you use, and you can get it into pretty small spaces. It's also generally about the same price as the GW plastic cement and you get more in the jar.
While it's a great cement in terms of function, I find the smell discourages me from ever buying another bottle. No cement is going to smell great, but the issue is just how *strong* that smell is. Much prefer Mr. Cement S. for that reason.
I’ve been mulling jumping into mini painting for a long time. It just seems like such a rabbit hole to go down and at this point I have so many freaking unpainted minis that it’s like trying to find the time to read the entire Encyclopedia Brittanica.
getting ready do the a video on the howl process you know all the sanding, painting and the terrain grass shrubs things like the I till be giving you a shout out. It will be like a four part video will also put a link to your channel your great all your videos are very informative
I am an historical gamer so I paint historical miniatures. This also means I do vehicles. Good sources are Warlord Games, Great Escape Games, MiniFigs, Hinchcliffe, Askari, Ral Partha and countless others. Many, if not the majority, of my miniatures are metal. Any tips on doing metal figures? Also, what is your opinion on enamels? I am old school and that is all that there were when I started. I still find metallic enamels to be the best. They seem to "pop" more than acrylic.
Thanks for the video. It was very informative. What am I doing wrong when I start mixing and pulling paint, then start getting holes on my parchment paper.
Any tips for working with a shorter brush or is it more of a hands on type thing? I have had a hard time with anything smaller than a Size 1 Raphael 8404.
can you use a black primer instead of gray? I see you prime it with gray then paint black over it. but if the primer is already black, can I skip that step?
My advice to new painters is this: Take a figure and splat some paint on it use a worn-out brush and house paint. You are now a miniature painter. Now you just have to improve. That shouldn't take too long.
Thanks a lot for the refresher! Very helpful. One question to your primer: what brand are you using? I switched from the dusty rattle cans to Vallejo polyurethane airbrush, but I am not too satisfied, having problems with chipping. Don't know if it is a problem of not cleaning and brushing the resin miniatures enough beforehand, or if the primer is just not good. Any recommendation?
Do you need some kind of air extractor for paint brushing? I know wearing a mask is advised, but the paint particles don't end up floating around the room and stick to walls etc.?
Great vid! I can never figure out what colors to use for layering. I’ll put on the base coat and then lighten a few obvious areas by adding white to the base color or eyeballing a color that looks like it might work. It’s a pretty random process. Sometimes it looks ok but never as good as I’d like. Any advice?
I have default color schemes I go to: magenta-red-yellow, purple-blue-green, green-yellow, magenta-orange, you get the idea. I have a video about going diagonally down the color wheel to help you choose your colors. It's called something like: paint colorful models, paint vibrant models, etc.
Mixing black or white tend to desaturate colors which isn't always what you want. Instead, try highlighting with a brighter color similar to your base coat. I've seen a few painters use Sunny Skin Tone or Verdigris as universal highlight colors depending if your mini will be in warm or cool light respectively.
Isn't it better to start with the easy things first? things like eyes is maybe better to save for last, e.g: if you paint the eyes first and then the face, it's easier to hit the eyes, and mess them up. I would go for the face first, after that is dry you can. Just paint the eyes over the already painted face.
i suggest doing the most difficult areas first because if you mess it up and have to strip part of your model, you will have lost as little progress as possible.
Hei Lyla, i just ordered the Paintpuck after you use it soooo much. it seems i ordered a blue one allthough i wanted a red one. Did u ever contact the Seller? I did not get a response for 3 Days now :( Great Video as always :)
I love CMON games miniatures. They make amazing minis and a great price and you get a board game with them. I actually like green stuff world liquid green stuff for cracks. Love your channel and feel free to check out mine too.
Instead of using your hand there is synthetic skin. tattoo artists use it to practice for beginners before they are ready to ink on human skin. that might be a good way to test your paint instead of your hand. great indepth video by the way.
What's your favorite mini producer?
Oooh that's tough. For 3D sculpts I love Artisan Guild, as well as Loot. Lately I have been into metal minis, and I really like Otherworld Miniatures - they have very old school looking minis but are current. I also love a lot of the old stuff when I can get recent castings or old minis (Ral Partha, Grenadier).
Corvus Belli! Infinity miniatures are lovely.
Hmm, I think out of the most recent releases I’ve seen it’ll have to be between Mindwork Games, Black Crow Miniatures, and Hera Models but there are so many others that do high quality display pieces. Karol Rudyk Art has some stunning dragons, Spira Mirabilis puts a lot of character into the busts he does, and Black Sun Miniatures is going to have some new releases coming out soon that I’ll be excited to see.
Games Workshop
Confrontation by Rackham!
Doesn't matter how long I've painted, I keep forgetting some of these. Always good to have the reminders!
thank you!
A binder of notes helps :/ sounds schoolish, but I've begun to keep a dedicated binder and tool kit around project areas or workshop areas
New to your channel and a beginner at figure painting, I find this video one of the best for someone trying to understand the different techniques used. Thanks
I'm thrilled!
If you haven't already bought into acrylics, I recommend giving oils some thought. A bit more buy-in, but as you advance as a painter, you'll find yourself fighting the medium less.
The one thing I notice people don't talk about when making these beginner videos, is cleaning the mini with a toothbrush and soap and water. It's mentioned here and there, but not often.
Its not as common if a problem anymore!
@@LylaMev Ah I see. I guess I'm just so used to cleaning my minis I always do it even if they say ready to paint.
I recommend a reptile bulb for lighting. Not the heat lamp, but the full spectrum lightbulbs designed to reproduce sunlight’s natural spectral distribution. The ones specifically made to keep pet reptiles healthy are also the most accurate. They’re not cheap, but they have both fluorescent and LED bulbs so they’ll last you either a long time or until your cat pushes the lamp off the table.
This video is going to help my wife and I, thank you. We have been trying to learn painting for a few weeks now, but man is it tricky
Glad to help
Been in the hobby for decades. Still learn stuff from watching this channel. I've never heard of scoring plastic styrene to help make better joints using cement. But it's such an obviously good assembly hack.
Some other random thoughts:
You want to buy primer specifically. Some beginners will try "priming" using regular black paint. Not only does this not help the paint stick or go on smooth like this video shows, using regular paint doesn't seal the surface of the model. The main purpose of priming is to prevent materials within the model itself from causing discoloration over time (especially with plastic and clay) and to prevent outside elements from getting into the material. The main reason old models (as in lead models from the 70s and 80s) experience things like lead rot is because outside moisture seeps through the paint and into the metal. Using primer after washing your models prevents things like this from happening. Regular paint won't protect your models, especially if you're constantly handling them as game pieces in an environment that doesn't have climate control. Museums keep their paintings in good shape by controlling temperature and humidity. Your local game shop doesn't.
Generally, mixing milliput and green stuff gives the benefits of both. You can get more detail sculpted, while also being able to sand the putty once it's cured. I've also been finding good success with procreate and Aves Apoxie. Procreate is good for doing really fine detail work. Aves is just good all-round. You'll need to experiment with different brands and types, mixing them together as necessary. I rarely use pure green stuff or pure milliput. I'd also recommend using Vaseline instead of water (unless you're trying to dissolve milliput so it gets into cracks/crevices or to make texture). Just remember to wipe your model off once the putty is cured so you don't accidentally have paint chip off after priming because the model has lubricate all over it.
I used car primer once. It was not a good choice.
I came to the hobby via Warhammer 40k, then started playing D&D so I discovered HeroForge. I then got a 3D printer because buying an STL on HeroForge was much cheaper than paying them to print it, so then I discovered Broken Anvil Miniatures which is my favorite mini studio for 3D printed minis. I also really enjoy One Page Rules for their alternate sculpts for Warhammer 40k and Age of Sigmar, or you could even play their games which are better than the Games Workshop games that inspired them.
Your explanations of layering are ones I keep coming back to; they're so good!
Thank you!
Even as someone who has been painting for a year, I still learned from this rapid-fire intro! Thanks, Lyla.
This has to be the greatest video tutorial out there, I’ve searched for hours and hours is bar far the best thank you, I’m a beginner in painting minis
Lyla! You've build such a great resource for painters across the mini community, it's been so helpful to me to see clear examples of how to use a palette and layering. What I feel like I'm interested in seeing next is how you yourself solve certain problems etc. when you're painting a mini from start to finish. I feel like I get maybe 60% of the way there and because I don't have the foresight or experience, I get a little stuck and don't know how to go up to the "next level" of contrast to really finish the mini.
You ma’am are a true teacher and I appreciate you and your videos and am grateful to have clicked on the. 😊
I think your explanation of layering and the color paper pyramid is probably the best and most succinct explanation I've seen. It really clicked for me.
Great guide! I always appreciate the reminders on glazing and layering up the colors. And of course, contrast, contrast, contrast!
Contrast is so important!
Not a wargaming painter, mostly into military vehicles and the occasional Gundam, but have been watching various miniature painter channels for years now. This will definitely be a handy video if I ever decide to dabble in this side of the modeling hobby, thanks for making it!
thanks for this, even after several years of modelling I still learned something new. Keep teaching!
Very comprehensive yet concise breakdown for beginning mini painting!
Thank you!
An aside: my 7yr old daughter always wants to see your kitties, no matter what the video is about!
Sorry no kitties in this one!
@@LylaMev no worries. They made an appearance in the end credits and that was good enough for her. :)
@@BrianPivik oh thank goodness!
Just getting started and this video is AMAZING. Thank you for getting right to the point and covering SO much. Its a saver for sure!
Reaper, for sure, is my favorite. Good, reliable paint, terrific customer service, Kickstarters consistently provide good value. I like that they have been experimenting with new materials. The community around Reaper is great.
Comprehensive review... of EVERYTHING. Thank you. Love the tricks and tips you share! What's good and what's bad.
THank you for your kindness!
Really appreciate that I can still learn cool new tricks even though I started painting minis over 20 years ago!
One Page Rules is myfavorite 3D model maker. They're great for D&D and as proxies for other mini wargame models.
The grey gradient dry brush is a great idea. Also the photos to know where highlights should be. I'm gonna try these 👍
Just came back to this video; thank you for explaining things so easily and concisely!
My friend is going to start a dnd campaign next week. He’s the only member who actually has experience And the rest of us have never played. Thankfully however, I have been granted permission to buy and paint some miniatures, which I’ve always wanted to do. This will truly help me when I get started! It’s a new adventure and I am truly excited. Thanks!
Thanks for this video! I painted a couple minis in like 2003 but the industry wasn't big back then and I had no idea what I was doing. Now I can paint again with a little bit of knowledge
A timely video. I just finished building my first Tau Fire Warrior. It was quite a struggle getting both arms to line up at the shoulder, but the armor plate should cover that up. I'm going to build a few more and then begin painting. Thank you for all the great videos. Here goes nothin'!
I've been in the hobby for 4 years now but when the mini witch posts, I click 😂
THAT MEANS THE WORLD
Good summary, but I think everyone should know that you can mix miliput and green stuff and get the best of both worlds. When I learned that trick it was a game changer for me.
I always forget that
Excellent whole-coverage guide! If you ask me, I would add 1) sprue goo (you almost covered it) 2) thinning varnishes for brush and airbrush (and cover sating/gloss/matt) 3) hair dryer to fasten paint dry time 4) texture paints and under-feet stuff for fast creation of super simple but cute bases 5) hand mini drills (you shown) for magnets, armatures and barrels. That will be overkill guide that covers all hobby aspects I guess
Aaaand saved for future use. Fantastic video a wealth of info! Have never used greenstuff before to fill gaps so it was interesting to hear it tears when trying to sand it. Vallejo have a great putty in a tube with a fine tip & it drys quickly & is sandable. Also if you are new to painting you can also use a hair dryer to speed up the paint drying time(I'm a bit impatient), just don't have it too close to the miniture!
For great dry brushes I get makeup brushes at the dollar store. I can get a 3pack for a dollar and I get 3 diff size brushes. And makeup brushes are much softer bristles so it's easier to be more subtle
The Miniatures Tavern is one of my favorite miniature printers. High Quality, affordable price.
Great tutorial! I've been painting for years and learned some new items. But I recommend using distilled water instead of tap or bottle waters because the contents may contain minerals that might change the properties of the paint. hth
Great video encompassing everything that someone looking to start getting into the hobby might need to know! 🤘🏻
Thank you!!
I like this better than the last one.
New here. I‘vw seen A LOT of videos about painting miniatures and I haven’t painted a single one yet lol. I’m about to dive into the hobby and trying to learn as much as possible before beginning.
Such a good guide been painting a couole of years but always pick something up from these vids
Wonderful!
I'm pretty new to this hobby and love watching your videos! Your tips are so very helpful.. Thanks Lyla! ☺️
Superb video as usual!
I never get any texture from rattle can spray primers... The trick is to not hold them too far away.
The paint has a lot of pripellant/solvent in the can and this evaporates quickly, especially in hot or dry climates (including air conditioning). If the paint spray dries in the air between nozzle and model then the half-dried droplets lay on top of each other on the model making a grainy texture. If the spray is still fully wet when it hits the model then it will self level as it is fully liquid and will be really smooth to show detail really well.
Try holding the can nozzle closer to your models and you will eliminate the texture problem.
you can take some putty, make a big blob or a log and press your finger prints leaving finger prints all over it. Then you can just test your paint thinness on your finger log
Excellent video for beginners like me to learn the name of the base holder i.e. Hobby Holder. Thank u!
Hi Lyla - I started mini painting 3 years ago, did it for a year and that paused (kids....:D). I sold all my stuff to make some quick money for other hobbies (okay, I do regret that a bit....:D). Now I get back into the hobby, and your video was very helpful to focus on the important things to re-stock. So: Thanks a lot, great video. I watched a lot of your videos before and for sure will do again ;) Love from Munich
Here's some sweet glue for you. Try JB Weld Super Weld. The one that cures instantly under uv light. Little expensive but instant.
I switched to milliput based on your videos - it is nice how you can sand things down!
I can't smooth green stuff too save my life
This was so informative, thank you!
For 3d printed miniature I really love those from Gambody.
this was SUPER informative! Thank you so much! I have been trying to find videos that detail a bunch of different techniques and you explained them all succinctly and with great visuals!
I LOVE YOU!!! Great video, helped a lot.
Great video Id only change using paper towel to the back of your free hand as when dry brushing and normal painting the paper towel takes too much moisture away.
Very well-done intro tutorial!
Favorite miniatures :Stargrave minis from Northwind
Thank you so much!!
Excelent vídeo, I like so much. Congrats.
I have to recommend Tamiya extra thin over pretty much any type of plastic cement. Just about any hobby store will stock it and it comes with a brush applicator so its very easy to control how much you use, and you can get it into pretty small spaces. It's also generally about the same price as the GW plastic cement and you get more in the jar.
I actually use it very infrequently! Next time I run out I'll look for Tamiya
While it's a great cement in terms of function, I find the smell discourages me from ever buying another bottle. No cement is going to smell great, but the issue is just how *strong* that smell is. Much prefer Mr. Cement S. for that reason.
Great info. Thanks 😊
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Nice vid, Lyla 🥰
I’ve been mulling jumping into mini painting for a long time. It just seems like such a rabbit hole to go down and at this point I have so many freaking unpainted minis that it’s like trying to find the time to read the entire Encyclopedia Brittanica.
im new to your channel but where did you get the cute anime art mini?
Do you have a video explaining that funky grip you use to hold your paint brush?
I also hold my pencil that way, it's just how I hold my brush
getting ready do the a video on the howl process you know all the sanding, painting and the terrain grass shrubs things like the I till be giving you a shout out. It will be like a four part video will also put a link to your channel your great all your videos are very informative
ALWAYS good to keep refreshed. #NotificationSquad
my favorite hashtag!
I am an historical gamer so I paint historical miniatures. This also means I do vehicles. Good sources are Warlord Games, Great Escape Games, MiniFigs, Hinchcliffe, Askari, Ral Partha and countless others. Many, if not the majority, of my miniatures are metal. Any tips on doing metal figures? Also, what is your opinion on enamels? I am old school and that is all that there were when I started. I still find metallic enamels to be the best. They seem to "pop" more than acrylic.
Hello Lyla! Good work :)
Thank you!
great video, what game is the mini at 11:26 from?
Thanks for the video. It was very informative. What am I doing wrong when I start mixing and pulling paint, then start getting holes on my parchment paper.
The pill bottle as the model holder looks like such a good idea... Mini painters are some resourceful mofos...
What do you think of preprimed miniatures
Wish they made a synthetic that works as well as a real sable. As a Vegan it sucks constantly curling the tips of my brushes 😞
I aspire to be as good as you someday 🤣
That is very kind!
Just tnx
Any tips for working with a shorter brush or is it more of a hands on type thing?
I have had a hard time with anything smaller than a Size 1 Raphael 8404.
can you use a black primer instead of gray? I see you prime it with gray then paint black over it. but if the primer is already black, can I skip that step?
Have you ever tried mixing 2:1 milliput and greenstuff?
I have not! but i've heard good things
how long do u wait between colors or layers
My advice to new painters is this:
Take a figure and splat some paint on it use a worn-out brush and house paint.
You are now a miniature painter.
Now you just have to improve.
That shouldn't take too long.
Where was this when i started!?
Thanks a lot for the refresher! Very helpful. One question to your primer: what brand are you using? I switched from the dusty rattle cans to Vallejo polyurethane airbrush, but I am not too satisfied, having problems with chipping. Don't know if it is a problem of not cleaning and brushing the resin miniatures enough beforehand, or if the primer is just not good. Any recommendation?
Have you found any issues with using tap water and distilled water when mixing your paints?
I only use tap water and I’ve never had a problem
😊
But how can i avoid to get other colors on already painted areas? And how can i fix that the easiest way?
Do you need some kind of air extractor for paint brushing? I know wearing a mask is advised, but the paint particles don't end up floating around the room and stick to walls etc.?
I have a heavy-duty fan when I airbrush and a fresh air intake in the same room.
Once again another great video thanks for the tips have been trying to get it all done with an airbrush now I just like a silly A**.
Btw after seeing your clippers, I‘m afraid to shake hands, should we ever meet 😅
What I don't understand is you prime it white from top and drybrush it to have nice highlights, just to COMPLETELY COVER IT? just for the reference?
Great vid! I can never figure out what colors to use for layering. I’ll put on the base coat and then lighten a few obvious areas by adding white to the base color or eyeballing a color that looks like it might work. It’s a pretty random process. Sometimes it looks ok but never as good as I’d like. Any advice?
I have default color schemes I go to: magenta-red-yellow, purple-blue-green, green-yellow, magenta-orange, you get the idea. I have a video about going diagonally down the color wheel to help you choose your colors. It's called something like: paint colorful models, paint vibrant models, etc.
Thanks! I’ll give it a look.
Mixing black or white tend to desaturate colors which isn't always what you want. Instead, try highlighting with a brighter color similar to your base coat. I've seen a few painters use Sunny Skin Tone or Verdigris as universal highlight colors depending if your mini will be in warm or cool light respectively.
Thanks for the tip. I’m really dense when it comes to understanding what colors work well together.
At 6:03
Ain't that Airam loop clip 3d?
Huh... Are you scandinavian?
I'm having a hard time to think that Airam would show up anywhere else.
Isn't it better to start with the easy things first? things like eyes is maybe better to save for last, e.g: if you paint the eyes first and then the face, it's easier to hit the eyes, and mess them up.
I would go for the face first, after that is dry you can. Just paint the eyes over the already painted face.
i suggest doing the most difficult areas first because if you mess it up and have to strip part of your model, you will have lost as little progress as possible.
6:11 - Daaaamn that looks like some dank nuggies in that pill bottle! hehehehehe
....those are rocks.
lltmw!
Hei Lyla, i just ordered the Paintpuck after you use it soooo much. it seems i ordered a blue one allthough i wanted a red one. Did u ever contact the Seller? I did not get a response for 3 Days now :( Great Video as always :)
@6:13 420 blaze it! Haha!
Which model is the one shown on 00:28?
I'm fairly certain that is Rahel from hera miniatures
@@funchick202 I mean the one before Rahel.
I love CMON games miniatures. They make amazing minis and a great price and you get a board game with them. I actually like green stuff world liquid green stuff for cracks. Love your channel and feel free to check out mine too.
When using inks you should always wear a mask.
Really?
GW
Instead of using your hand there is synthetic skin. tattoo artists use it to practice for beginners before they are ready to ink on human skin. that might be a good way to test your paint instead of your hand. great indepth video by the way.
As a former tattooer, that synthetic skin is garbage
Argh not another product that is going to sit on my desk 😊