I’ve used this one time on an ash frame. I was impressed - there is no bleed back, does not “tack/gel” but dries easily. He has the right mixture of oil and carrier. Great job!
YES! No tacky! I can't believe I forgot to mention that! THAT is one of the reasons I love it, I always ran into issue with that with Teak, Danish, and others. I am going to pin this comment. Thank you!
I love this oil. It dries fast and rock hard and provides the depth of grain you want from oil…but dries way faster and seals wood completely in one coat.
Ask yourself why an "oil" would dry so quickly and so hard. Check out my other comment and the MSDS of the product. Have you tried something like Tried & True Varnish Oil (just pure polymerised linseed oil and pine resin), Pure Tung Oil (Walrus Oil or Real Milk Paint Co)? MUCH safer in my humble opinion. Just my opinion, though, not an argumentative comment.
Thank you! It does a bit of both! I brings out the grain AND absorbs into the pores and hardens when it dries. IMO you still want a top coat but it does help protect and strengthen
Ordered a quart of Glancy’s No 1 (June 26). Would love to try it. Still waiting on order #1069, 27 days and counting (July 24). Still no Glancy’s. Originally emailed company (July 11). Another pre-shipment label was created in USPS system on July 17. Was offered a refund. Really wanted an alternative to BLO. ?????
We have been in communication, I have replied in a timely manner to every email and have sent you a replacement for a mistake the post office made. I just checked your tracking and it has not been scanned at my local post office so I will go down and talk to them later today to see what’s up. I have gone above and beyond any of your requests. I offered a refund and you did not say you wanted one so I sent you a new bottle. We all know the post office can not be dependable at times and you are just one of the unlucky victims, I am truly sorry for this but I am a very small startup company and negative comments like this hurt me more than other places. I am doing everything I can do for you besides driving across the country and hand delivering.
@@GlancysAlchemy I can appreciate that you are a small startup company. My last email to expressed that I did not want a refund and that I would just chalk it up as a loss. You stated that you “have gone above and beyond any of my requests”. I have not made any requests other than ordering and paying for the product. I certainly cannot tell you how to run your company. I am not the shipper, so I don’t have the option of going to your post office to see what’s up. I would not expect you to “drive across the country and hand delivering”. All I wanted was to see if Glancy’s No 1 would be my go to finish. Thanks for your prompt replies.
CORRECTION! I received my order and a replacement order as well. This is the oil I thought it would be. Step aside BLO and Tung Oil. This product dries well. It is packaged well and responsibly.
Am I missing something? If I am, please tell me. I’ve been applying different finishes to wood projects for about 50 years, and agree completely that most of them are a pain to use, but sometimes you do need maximum protection. For most interior projects my go-to finish became the standard 3 Ingredient recipe for homemade “Danish Oil”, and I’d change the proportion of polyurethane, depending on the degree of surface protection I wanted. I had never used an oil-only finish…followed by a paste wax. By a timely coincidence I decided to give it a try, on a tray I’d just completed, using a highly figured “mystery” hardwood. I used BLO….applied it using the standard method of pouring it on, rubbing it in…then leaving a decent amount on the surface and letting it soak for about 15 minutes before rubbing it off, then letting it cure until dry to the touch. I had checked it after 4 or 5 hours and could have applied wax then but had other things to do, so didn’t get to it until about 3 hours later. The end result was that the BLO cured for about 8 hours total, and I then applied a coat of Minwax paste wax, and was very happy with the end result. The next morning, your review of Glancy’s No. 1 finish was waiting for me. The end result is this, and please keep in mind that I’m totally neutral on this topic. If Glancy’s was as good as advertised, I’d buy it in a second. My tray, finished with BLO and paste wax, as far as time and ease of use is concerned, is no different than Glancy’s. I re-watched the part of your video, where you show the results you achieved, using Glancy’s and paste wax, on various types of wood. My recollection of my BLO finish left me kinda underwhelmed by your results, so took another look at my tray, and it’s noticeably better. If I had an identical (unfinished) tray and a bottle of Glancy’s oil, in my hands right now, I’d still use the BLO. As I said previously, if anyone who’s used Glancy’s oil is aware of some advantage that I’m not seeing, please let me know…thanks.
We may be running into the issue of different wood species depending on how the mystery wood takes oil. I'd be curious to see if it looks the same or different with this Glancy's. The other issue is the camera I'm sure (and my shellac is from 2018/19) and I am not good with shellac and only did 1 coat on those, I usually go with wax finishes. I like it better than BLO cus it spreads easier, I feel like it absorbs faster and more effective. I always feel like I have to do multiple coats with it tho and with this one I don't. I like how it looks more and how the top coat spreads better. I will say, you have been woodworking alot longer than me so I would love to hear your opinion if you try it.
So BLO is probably the worst finishing oil out there for enhancing figure and depth. It changes the color of a wood drastically and leaves quite a dull finish in the end. Up until my oil Tung oil was the absolute best out there nothing compared and was the bar to beat when I was developing Glancy’s No.1. If you want to see the difference but not buy my product get yourself some raw tung oil and dilute 50:50 with mineral spirits and give that a try. You should see a huge difference between that and BLO. Now Glancy’s is not just for oil and wax. I recommend using Glancy’s No.1, let it dry then apply you hard protective coat like polyurethane. You will absolutely notice a difference in the depth and chatoyance in the finished project as opposed to no oil. Again if you don’t want to use Glancy’s just try a 50:50 mixture of raw tung oil in mineral spirits, let dry then apply your polyurethane and let us all know what you think. The whole dry time thing is another long story so if you like the oil finish under your poly let me know and I’ll go into the drying.
@@GlancysAlchemy a couple of things. My deciding to try an oil-only finish was because I’m trying to get away from the many irritations when using a poly coating. The drying time, the sanding and re-coating, rinse and repeat….definitely a process worth avoiding. When I DO want a bit of surface protection I much prefer shellac, but for most of my current projects a surface coating is overkill. I’ll disagree with you on your opinion of BLO, but that’s unimportant…there are other oils. The only issue I was raising is that I do not see how Glancy’s oil gives any improvement over other oils, when it comes to ease of application, and final appearance. I used BLO on this occasion because it’s what I had on hand. So my question still remains….what makes your product better? I looked at the Glancy’s web page….and found nothing to answer my question, info is pretty sparse. All I know right now is that your product is an unidentified oil, possibly thinned, and perhaps with a drier or hardener added….a version of “Danish Oil”, so to speak. Please enlighten me….I’m not looking for an argument, or to denigrate your product, but I long ago gave up on finding a “magic potion”. If you’ve developed one, I’ll happily use it. Until then, I’ll continue using the BLO (or Tung oil) and paste wax combo. Thanks in advance.
@@mudz678 I'll weigh in after using Glancy's for 3 months on many projects using different wood species. As Mr. Glancy stated and as I have experienced, the depth and chatoyance in the finished project is the difference. I use highly figured woods to bring out the wonderful beauty of the grain. I collect different woods specifically for this purpose. (redwood, western red cedar, sapele, cyprees, olive). I do a lot of re-sawing to reveal these special features of the wood so want to enhance it with the finish I use. Using Glancy's with a finish coat makes a BIG difference in revealing the depth and chatoyance. You have to experience this to appreciate it.
This doesn’t seem to mention anything about being low VoC, all natural, etc. Given that, I’ll probably stick with Walrus Oil. The trying time with this product is good, but I just do stuff for fun so no need for a quick turn around time.
I haven't tried walrus oil yet but I heard its temperamental with getting tacky and having a foul odor? Do you see that? Or I guess feel and smell* that haha 😄
The solvent for this oil is mineral spirits, very safe solvent but is considered a VOC. All of the other ingredients are natural plant based materials. I am not clear on where the line for “all natural” is so I didn’t put that on the label, I could call it all natural since mineral spirits is distilled from oil which is a natural substance but again I don’t know what people are looking for with that kind of label and I don’t want to be misleading. The VOC of Glancy’s No.1 is 400g/L only because mineral spirits are labeled as a VOC. I have made very sure that the possible very dangerous impurities like benzene are not there.
@@BatCaveCreations I've used Walrus Oil products. They're ok. They look nice. Smell just fine. The Furniture Finish oil is Safflower/Tung/Hemp/Perilla and it has some lime oil in it too I think. Walrus tell you every single ingredient in their products which I really like in a company. Takes a while to dry for sure.
@@GlancysAlchemy Thank you for the reply and information. I agree that "all natural" can be vague. Even "100% percent plant based" doesn't always mean something is safe to use. I'm guessing (because I'm not a chemist) that using a plant derived solvent, like D-Limonene would increase the drying time, and probably the cost to?
@@BatCaveCreations I have used Walrus Oil Furniture Finish, Furniture Butter, and Furniture Wax on a large desk, and then on several shop jigs. I've never had a problem with it getting tacky, streaky, etc. The smell reminds me of Play-doh, but my wife says it smells more like french-fry grease. Either way it dissipates over time, as it was hardly noticeable after a few weeks. After full curing (couple of weeks), it leaves a nice smooth / soft surface, mainly due to the waxes in the Furniture Butter and Furniture Wax products.
MSDS full of isoalkanes, hydrocarbons C9-11, cyclics, aromatics. Nothing good for you to be exposing yourself to here! Also doesn't tell you what oils it contains. Just says Modified Oils (Proprietary 30-60%). So at least 40% of this product is nasty chemicals and not oil. Like your channel man but personally I would not use this product purely based on its ingredients.
isoalkanes, hydrocarbon C9-11, cyclics….. these are all chemical names for the mixture that is mineral spirits a perfectly safe solvent sold everywhere. The aromatics are listed in just the solvent as less than 2 percent, I check COA’s very carefully to ensure it’s lower than that before purchasing the bulk solvent to make sure the final solution is less than 1% which is well below safe levels.
Yeah I’m no fan of mineral spirits but point taken. Also I think I was overly harsh in some of my comments on this video. I appreciate your calm and civil responses. It does sound like you’ve taken lots of care and consideration in making your product safe. Any chance of a full ingredients list for consumers?
@@ArnallWoodworks so I developed this oil by looking into the molecular structures of natural materials and the polymerization reaction mechanisms involved to be able to allow for such a fast dry time. There was a lot of research involved so the hiding of those components is for my protection by the big boys when this oil takes off. That is the only reason I don’t share that composition in the SDS.
Understood. But it’s Tung Oil based right? Plus mineral spirits for the solvent, plus whatever proprietary voodoo you have developed. I was an Odie’s Oil user / believer there for a while and their use of the term “molecular bonding” instead of simple “polymerisation” always seemed like a marketing spin to me. But maybe I was wrong about that, however they don’t really specify what they mean since it’s proprietary. Do you have any insights into this?
I’ve used this one time on an ash frame. I was impressed - there is no bleed back, does not “tack/gel” but dries easily. He has the right mixture of oil and carrier. Great job!
YES! No tacky! I can't believe I forgot to mention that! THAT is one of the reasons I love it, I always ran into issue with that with Teak, Danish, and others. I am going to pin this comment. Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words. I’m very glad you liked it.
@@GlancysAlchemy
Thank you for your fine product. It's giving me fantastic results. And at a price I can afford.
Agreed. Best finish on the market!
I love this oil. It dries fast and rock hard and provides the depth of grain you want from oil…but dries way faster and seals wood completely in one coat.
Ask yourself why an "oil" would dry so quickly and so hard. Check out my other comment and the MSDS of the product. Have you tried something like Tried & True Varnish Oil (just pure polymerised linseed oil and pine resin), Pure Tung Oil (Walrus Oil or Real Milk Paint Co)? MUCH safer in my humble opinion. Just my opinion, though, not an argumentative comment.
Interesting. I'll have to put this on my list to try.
Really interesting product indeed, dude! Thanks a bunch for sharing! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you! Idk where he ships or if it can be shipped to you but hopefully you can try it too!
I'll have to give it a try. I do like the bottle as well. Reminds me of old apothecary bottles
YES! That is one of my favorite things! I mean performance is boss and the design is a bonus hahaha
Great video!
Would you say this is more for improving the appearance of the wood and not a protective finish?
Thank you! It does a bit of both! I brings out the grain AND absorbs into the pores and hardens when it dries. IMO you still want a top coat but it does help protect and strengthen
Ordered a quart of Glancy’s No 1 (June 26). Would love to try it. Still waiting on order #1069, 27 days and counting (July 24). Still no Glancy’s. Originally emailed company (July 11). Another pre-shipment label was created in USPS system on July 17. Was offered a refund. Really wanted an alternative to BLO. ?????
That is very odd... I sent this to Mr. Glancy. He has been good about replying to comments
@@BatCaveCreations Thanks for your reply. I enjoy your channel.
We have been in communication, I have replied in a timely manner to every email and have sent you a replacement for a mistake the post office made. I just checked your tracking and it has not been scanned at my local post office so I will go down and talk to them later today to see what’s up. I have gone above and beyond any of your requests. I offered a refund and you did not say you wanted one so I sent you a new bottle. We all know the post office can not be dependable at times and you are just one of the unlucky victims, I am truly sorry for this but I am a very small startup company and negative comments like this hurt me more than other places. I am doing everything I can do for you besides driving across the country and hand delivering.
@@GlancysAlchemy I can appreciate that you are a small startup company. My last email to expressed that I did not want a refund and that I would just chalk it up as a loss. You stated that you “have gone above and beyond any of my requests”. I have not made any requests other than ordering and paying for the product. I certainly cannot tell you how to run your company. I am not the shipper, so I don’t have the option of going to your post office to see what’s up. I would not expect you to “drive across the country and hand delivering”. All I wanted was to see if Glancy’s No 1 would be my go to finish. Thanks for your prompt replies.
CORRECTION! I received my order and a replacement order as well. This is the oil I thought it would be. Step aside BLO and Tung Oil. This product dries well. It is packaged well and responsibly.
Am I missing something? If I am, please tell me. I’ve been applying different finishes to wood projects for about 50 years, and agree completely that most of them are a pain to use, but sometimes you do need maximum protection. For most interior projects my go-to finish became the standard 3 Ingredient recipe for homemade “Danish Oil”, and I’d change the proportion of polyurethane, depending on the degree of surface protection I wanted. I had never used an oil-only finish…followed by a paste wax. By a timely coincidence I decided to give it a try, on a tray I’d just completed, using a highly figured “mystery” hardwood. I used BLO….applied it using the standard method of pouring it on, rubbing it in…then leaving a decent amount on the surface and letting it soak for about 15 minutes before rubbing it off, then letting it cure until dry to the touch. I had checked it after 4 or 5 hours and could have applied wax then but had other things to do, so didn’t get to it until about 3 hours later. The end result was that the BLO cured for about 8 hours total, and I then applied a coat of Minwax paste wax, and was very happy with the end result. The next morning, your review of Glancy’s No. 1 finish was waiting for me. The end result is this, and please keep in mind that I’m totally neutral on this topic. If Glancy’s was as good as advertised, I’d buy it in a second. My tray, finished with BLO and paste wax, as far as time and ease of use is concerned, is no different than Glancy’s. I re-watched the part of your video, where you show the results you achieved, using Glancy’s and paste wax, on various types of wood. My recollection of my BLO finish left me kinda underwhelmed by your results, so took another look at my tray, and it’s noticeably better. If I had an identical (unfinished) tray and a bottle of Glancy’s oil, in my hands right now, I’d still use the BLO. As I said previously, if anyone who’s used Glancy’s oil is aware of some advantage that I’m not seeing, please let me know…thanks.
We may be running into the issue of different wood species depending on how the mystery wood takes oil. I'd be curious to see if it looks the same or different with this Glancy's. The other issue is the camera I'm sure (and my shellac is from 2018/19) and I am not good with shellac and only did 1 coat on those, I usually go with wax finishes.
I like it better than BLO cus it spreads easier, I feel like it absorbs faster and more effective. I always feel like I have to do multiple coats with it tho and with this one I don't. I like how it looks more and how the top coat spreads better. I will say, you have been woodworking alot longer than me so I would love to hear your opinion if you try it.
So BLO is probably the worst finishing oil out there for enhancing figure and depth. It changes the color of a wood drastically and leaves quite a dull finish in the end. Up until my oil Tung oil was the absolute best out there nothing compared and was the bar to beat when I was developing Glancy’s No.1. If you want to see the difference but not buy my product get yourself some raw tung oil and dilute 50:50 with mineral spirits and give that a try. You should see a huge difference between that and BLO.
Now Glancy’s is not just for oil and wax. I recommend using Glancy’s No.1, let it dry then apply you hard protective coat like polyurethane. You will absolutely notice a difference in the depth and chatoyance in the finished project as opposed to no oil. Again if you don’t want to use Glancy’s just try a 50:50 mixture of raw tung oil in mineral spirits, let dry then apply your polyurethane and let us all know what you think.
The whole dry time thing is another long story so if you like the oil finish under your poly let me know and I’ll go into the drying.
@@GlancysAlchemy a couple of things. My deciding to try an oil-only finish was because I’m trying to get away from the many irritations when using a poly coating. The drying time, the sanding and re-coating, rinse and repeat….definitely a process worth avoiding. When I DO want a bit of surface protection I much prefer shellac, but for most of my current projects a surface coating is overkill. I’ll disagree with you on your opinion of BLO, but that’s unimportant…there are other oils. The only issue I was raising is that I do not see how Glancy’s oil gives any improvement over other oils, when it comes to ease of application, and final appearance. I used BLO on this occasion because it’s what I had on hand. So my question still remains….what makes your product better? I looked at the Glancy’s web page….and found nothing to answer my question, info is pretty sparse. All I know right now is that your product is an unidentified oil, possibly thinned, and perhaps with a drier or hardener added….a version of “Danish Oil”, so to speak. Please enlighten me….I’m not looking for an argument, or to denigrate your product, but I long ago gave up on finding a “magic potion”. If you’ve developed one, I’ll happily use it. Until then, I’ll continue using the BLO (or Tung oil) and paste wax combo. Thanks in advance.
@@mudz678
I'll weigh in after using Glancy's for 3 months on many projects using different wood species.
As Mr. Glancy stated and as I have experienced, the depth and chatoyance in the finished project is the difference.
I use highly figured woods to bring out the wonderful beauty of the grain. I collect different woods specifically for this purpose. (redwood, western red cedar, sapele, cyprees, olive). I do a lot of re-sawing to reveal these special features of the wood so want to enhance it with the finish I use.
Using Glancy's with a finish coat makes a BIG difference in revealing the depth and chatoyance.
You have to experience this to appreciate it.
Is it food safe? Chemical dryers?
likely food safe when cures. Chemical dryers for sure!
@@ArnallWoodworks I assure you no chemical driers. The fast drying relies on a natural process between two very compatible materials.
God to know. I stand corrected. I apologise.
This doesn’t seem to mention anything about being low VoC, all natural, etc. Given that, I’ll probably stick with Walrus Oil. The trying time with this product is good, but I just do stuff for fun so no need for a quick turn around time.
I haven't tried walrus oil yet but I heard its temperamental with getting tacky and having a foul odor? Do you see that? Or I guess feel and smell* that haha 😄
The solvent for this oil is mineral spirits, very safe solvent but is considered a VOC. All of the other ingredients are natural plant based materials. I am not clear on where the line for “all natural” is so I didn’t put that on the label, I could call it all natural since mineral spirits is distilled from oil which is a natural substance but again I don’t know what people are looking for with that kind of label and I don’t want to be misleading. The VOC of Glancy’s No.1 is 400g/L only because mineral spirits are labeled as a VOC. I have made very sure that the possible very dangerous impurities like benzene are not there.
@@BatCaveCreations I've used Walrus Oil products. They're ok. They look nice. Smell just fine. The Furniture Finish oil is Safflower/Tung/Hemp/Perilla and it has some lime oil in it too I think. Walrus tell you every single ingredient in their products which I really like in a company. Takes a while to dry for sure.
@@GlancysAlchemy Thank you for the reply and information. I agree that "all natural" can be vague. Even "100% percent plant based" doesn't always mean something is safe to use. I'm guessing (because I'm not a chemist) that using a plant derived solvent, like D-Limonene would increase the drying time, and probably the cost to?
@@BatCaveCreations I have used Walrus Oil Furniture Finish, Furniture Butter, and Furniture Wax on a large desk, and then on several shop jigs. I've never had a problem with it getting tacky, streaky, etc. The smell reminds me of Play-doh, but my wife says it smells more like french-fry grease. Either way it dissipates over time, as it was hardly noticeable after a few weeks.
After full curing (couple of weeks), it leaves a nice smooth / soft surface, mainly due to the waxes in the Furniture Butter and Furniture Wax products.
MSDS full of isoalkanes, hydrocarbons C9-11, cyclics, aromatics. Nothing good for you to be exposing yourself to here! Also doesn't tell you what oils it contains. Just says Modified Oils (Proprietary 30-60%). So at least 40% of this product is nasty chemicals and not oil. Like your channel man but personally I would not use this product purely based on its ingredients.
isoalkanes, hydrocarbon C9-11, cyclics….. these are all chemical names for the mixture that is mineral spirits a perfectly safe solvent sold everywhere. The aromatics are listed in just the solvent as less than 2 percent, I check COA’s very carefully to ensure it’s lower than that before purchasing the bulk solvent to make sure the final solution is less than 1% which is well below safe levels.
I'm glad Glancy responded cus I have no idea hahahah
Yeah I’m no fan of mineral spirits but point taken. Also I think I was overly harsh in some of my comments on this video. I appreciate your calm and civil responses. It does sound like you’ve taken lots of care and consideration in making your product safe. Any chance of a full ingredients list for consumers?
@@ArnallWoodworks so I developed this oil by looking into the molecular structures of natural materials and the polymerization reaction mechanisms involved to be able to allow for such a fast dry time. There was a lot of research involved so the hiding of those components is for my protection by the big boys when this oil takes off. That is the only reason I don’t share that composition in the SDS.
Understood. But it’s Tung Oil based right? Plus mineral spirits for the solvent, plus whatever proprietary voodoo you have developed. I was an Odie’s Oil user / believer there for a while and their use of the term “molecular bonding” instead of simple “polymerisation” always seemed like a marketing spin to me. But maybe I was wrong about that, however they don’t really specify what they mean since it’s proprietary. Do you have any insights into this?