This man is an absolute legend. It’s incredible enough how many complex projects he hits out of the park, but when you consider the fact that he makes in-depth tutorial videos WHILE he’s doing all of this- freaking incredible! 😮
For those around the world who don't have access to K23 porous insulating bricks (like myself) there's an alternative: Make a wooden frame for your brick and get two bags of cat litter. The transparent cat litter (sometimes with blue color-changing crystals) is porous silica, mix that with little bit of water and NaOH and heat to make Sodium silicate, it's a high-temperature binder, will look like a gel once cooled. Now get the other cat sand, the brown one that turns into chunks when pissed on, that's bentonite, mix it with saw dust and the Sodium silicate (mix it well) and put it into your mould and leave it to harden a little (it'll harden faster with CO2 if you have a source) then burn it on a firepit, you'll end up with a super-hard insulating porous brick. The sodium silicate-bentonite recipe is used for cores of sand-cast molds, it's a known and reliable recipe for high temp material, the saw dust is to create the pores, it can be replaced for styrofoam balls or anything else that will burn off (leaving the insulating gaps inside the brick). The result is brown porous brick that you'll need a sledge hammer to break. Get a Sodium silicate recipe online, follow through and see if your sodium silicate doesn't foam too much when heated, even then you can scrape the excess. This worked for me much better than the ever cracking sand + plaster recipes. I know it's a lot of work but as I said I don't have K23 bricks and normal non-porous "firebricks" will not work well for this. Since you'll have spare bentonite cat sand also know this type of cat sand can be ground and used as greensand for casting all sorts of non-ferrous metals. I'm not sure of the relation of cats and casting but it seems there is one. Great tutorial, as always.
I am SO SO happy I found your channel! I've been really wanting to do in house wax casting, but the price of kilns is just out if this world. Thank you for sharing all your amazing projects with us! You've inspired me to get uncomfortable and try something I normally wouldn't. SO excited to recreate this kiln.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. There are many electric foundry videos out there but your is the best. Mostly because you explained the most important part - Understanding the coil. There are a thousand different ways to build the foundry but only one way to get the cool right and no one talks about that. I also like how you put the link to the other parts of the series. No one does that. 👍
Wow!!!! You did an awesome job! Thank you so Mutch for the in- depth video (including the mistakes & corrections). That is sooo appreciated by those of us who actually will try to build one of these!!!! To your Honor!
I admire your thorough approach of building this project! I am a silversmith and have been thinking about building something like this. I think I’m going to go with gas as my time is critical to get as much finished in a day. Thank you for the time you put into doing your videos! 🍺❤️
Lots of jewellers use a torch as melt in a small crucible. It's quick and easy. But I guess you still need a burnout oven if you're investment casting and that's what I use my electric furnace for these days 😁
Thermal wire insulation, pop round and see your mechanic, if he's not got any kicking around, ask him to hold on to any old lambda probes or exhaust temp sensors, these are insulated with the very same tube you used & will be free, cut the ends off and you have now got an insulated tube & some short lengths of quality wire. Came across you a few years back, and I've come across you again doing other things, nice work
Excellent. There are a few vids on differing methods of DIY furnace . Although this design is not the most basic ( ie sand , charcoal and hairdryer ). It looks simple enough and cleaner / more controllable. Do you think this could be used as both a furnace to melt metal ( Aluminium probably first ) and then as a kiln to burn out wax from a plaster casting ? I would fit with PID / thermocouple to monitor temps
damn nice build! I am glad that there are still other people out there that were taught that if somethings worth doing then its worth doing right! Everyone gets lazy occasionally and cuts corners but it always comes back to bite ya in the ass even on the simplest of things. Course now that ya got a couple furnaces ya need a temp controlled chest style oven that's reasonably airtight that way you can heat treat your own aluminum castings and even do stuff under a co2,argon or nitrogen atmosphere when needed :)...chest style just makes it easy to displace the oxy and not use huge amounts of the bottled gases
Respectfully, fire brick mortar & Grade 28 fire bricks, Question, where do I get this Sir ? Do they sale it at a home Depot or Lowe's ? Or online ? I travel & have cash but can try to use a card if I need to....???? & Thank you kindly for your videos Sir Sincerest, Paul~
Amazing videos, style and content. You really are interested in having your viewer learn and utilize the knowledge and information you are providing. Thank you.
In the USA we have split phase 240/120. From hot to neutral it is 120v, from hot to hot it is 240v. High draw appliances like stove, water heater, large a/c and stuff like that use 240v. Most other things use 120v.
I love the video, you have obviously put a lot of care and thought into making it easy to follow. I must admit that the engineer in me was somewhat horrified at the thought of supporting a foundry on a wooden frame, but I guess you would have told us if your house had burnt down the first time you used it :-) Best Regards Sarah
Hi Sarah. Thanks for the very kind words. I toyed with building a metal support frame, but cost became an immediate issue, so I braved out wood. Now I did expect to see the odd char mark given 1000C temps and the near proximity to that radiant heat, but to this day there remains none. Air, of course, is a thankfully good insulator and there's plenty of it around the far superior fire bricks that really contain those high temperatures : )
Thanks Steve, but I haven't been anywhere. I've been building and enjoying my new toy. I've a few more videos planned for the upcoming weeks. Hope you look out for those too.
Hello, I need help. we are on the manufacture of an electric foundry; unfortunately the heating coils that we have to order are too powerful about 4000 watts; a single coil have a resistance of 4 ohms, I only have 220 V/ 10 A Max , what can I do to adapt to the power I have, thank you
Hi, I'm from Brazil, and congratulations for your channel! Is the best Eletric Furnace in the internet When you use around 13.3 meters, 23 ohms, 10 A, generate 138 kJ per minute, and if you use around 6.65 meters, 11.5 ohms, 20 A, generate 276 kJ per minute, would that be a better a fast option to melt aluminum? thank you so much!
@@vogman I started binge watching your vids on casting and molds etc. Gotta say you've got me wanting to try my hand at it. Just need lots of money for quality tools. 😆
@@vogman absolutely. I absolutely feel like I'm about to get into jewelry just for the sake of saying I did it. I'm only getting this deep because of a family situation to where I got a little scrap gold that needed refining so now that i have a base metal to play with and try to craft something neat other than plain ingots and coin rounds.
The 30mm angle, what was the wall thickness you used? I can get it in 3, 4 and 5mm, would like to keep the weight down as much as possible, hoping it was 3mm but wanted to check!
Hi, I have used the coil calculator on your website. The calculation showed a required wire length of 14.38 m (by 230 Volts, 8 Amps max., 2,9 Ohms/m (wire) and 8 mm inner diameter of the coil). I am a little confused why you should need 14.38 meters? To achieve 29 Ohms and with a wire resistance of 2,9 Ohms/m, I would calculate: 29/2,9 = 10 meters. So 10 meters of the wire should cause 29 Ohms?! Or am I wrong? An answer would help me a lot! Best greetings
LOL!!! at 10:43 you illustrate glowing hot coils in your hands without smoldering the fingers. It's like you're superman or something. Nice illustration work. Love the furnace and videos. Great job!
This is a really great video series. However, when I came to starting the process of building my own, I came across a difficulty. I was able to locate the listing for the insulating firebrick blocks you used. However, the supplier would not ship to Canada. So I began searching in Canada. And there came the shocker: The cost of one (1) brick, the same type as you used (also TAOW), cost more than an entire crate of the same brick, purchased in the UK. I contacted the local supplier directly, rather than through the common sales web site, and asked why there was such an astonishing price difference. I was told that "our bricks are a much higher grade." Some weeks later, I was able to visit the supplier personally. I discovered that their insulating firebrick is exactly the same as what you used, in every respect, including the original manufacturer. Ordering insulating firebrick from the U.S.A. was not feasible because of customs issues. In any case, the bricks from the U.S. maker were a poorer grade of insulator. So, at this point, I'm stuck. I suppose I could fly to the UK business class, purchase two crates, perhaps three of the insulating firebrick you use in these videos, and return to Canada with it. Believe it or not, to do so would cost less than ordering from the intermediary supplier in Canada. I'm now in search of alternative sources, or how a different type of high-temperature insulator might be used. I have some experience in engineering, which helps, but to be brutally honest, the supplier for this refractory material here is just incredibly greedy, as well as being "economical with the truth." When I was still working professionally, any supplier who gave bad information went onto a special list of companies from whom we would not buy so much as a thumbtack. Thanks for your work in making this series - it was really instructive, and chock full of information. And who knows - I may yet make a trip to the UK, just to buy the insulating firebrick (and have a bit of a holiday as well).
Wow... that's terrible. I'm genuinely shocked. In honesty I'm used to things being the other way around. This side of the pond we often watch videos in quiet awe of the items you guys seem to pick up from the local hardware store. I always assumed at the very least "similar" items were available in most parts of the world. I never considered that there'd be such unreasonable variations in cost. Here's something to consider... I'm aware over here that store purchased electric and gas furnaces are lined with bricks of a similar type to these (here's a typical example - www.castreekilns.co.uk/front-loading-gas-kiln-gdf02-920-p.asp) I'm sure such furnaces / kilns are made in Canada as well. They're frequently used to fire pottery. If you can find a friendly purveyor, you might be able to track down some bricks. Sorry for the frustration I've caused you. I hope things work out. All the best.
Had a quick search and canadianforge.com/ has them for $18.99 - just in case your still looking I'm in the UK and have no connection to the above co good luck
Like i say too my wife, its the tip thats the most sensitive ha ha, love your work and the description you give, if i ever get round to building one ill definatly be following your vidios. Thanks also for the time and effort you put in ;)
Hi Adrian. That's exactly what I use mine for. You can drill a small vent in the lid for escaping gases (I just leave the lid open a tiny bit) and fitting a simple extruder hood nearby means a smoke free workroom 😁
@@vogman Thanks for the reply.. I am just looking to see if I can find an old Pottery kiln near me as I feel that could work also, if I cannot then I will make one of these as it is such a good idea.. I want to cast metal RC parts and all the ovens I can afford are just too small for my needs
This coil stuff is confusing the hell out of me. I need 53 in long coil with 120v and 13A with a resistance of 9.231 ohms. What does the gurth have to do with it and how do I find it ?
That's great to hear... just do me a favour... if you're looking to make an electric furnace, don't make any purchases until you've seen tomorrow's video : )
Wow what an awesome presentation, with all the information and detail. Surely am looking forward to the whole build before starting on one. Thank you for sharing :-)
Really good video again and great design, if only firebricks weren't so expensive. Although i have gotten away with using large paving stones from time to time
US houses have both 110v and 220v services. Usually only large appliances are wired to 220v so 220v sockets are not in most rooms of a house. The 220v is achieved by connecting two 180 degree out of phase 110v mains. This is what is supplied to almost all residential housing.
Thanks for that Matt. I'd heard this was the case in Canada (I think) but it's good to have a better understanding of my US viewers situation as well. It helps me plan future projects : )
@@vogman Its the same in Canada as the US. I'm currently working my way through ALL your videos Geoff. This channel of yours is a real jackpot for retirees like me that have enough time and money to "start" anything...... I'm sure I'll be beaming you off some questions later but will be trying to get through ALL of them before I do in case later videos clear things up.... Cheers from the colonies! Lewis
Also good tip for coil grooves in the future, as yours will be hard to replace. Stack two bricks, and cut a slot at a 45 degree angle downward. It will remove half or so of the bottom corner of the top brick, and cut a groove downward into the top of the bottom brick for the element to sit in. A few U shaped pins of the kanthal wire into the brick over the element to keep it in place. That way when element burns out you just unpin it and pull it out. then feed new ends through holes in the brick. This also allows for better heat transfer to the kiln environment because of more open area.
Also the thermocouple absolutely should protrude atleast 1/2 inch if you need precise temps. But for your applications you probably don't notice and can easily figure out the offset .
It's great to hear from someone interested in casting. Where should you start? I'd recommend visiting King Of Random and looking at his Mini Metal Foundry. This will show you how to very cheap plaster foundry powered by a hair dryer and BBQ charcoal. It's a great place to start as it costs very little but gives you a taste of what can be achieved. The drawback of this is that plaster foundries have a very short lifespan and quickly fall apart. If you're keen to make something more permanent but still affordable then I'd recommend a Refractory build. You can see my video on this here... ruclips.net/video/n42t3M1fOyY/видео.html. It's important to note, however, that this sort of foundry will need insulating. Here's my cheap plaster insulation video - ruclips.net/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/видео.html You'll need to power the foundry and solid fuels tend to be short-lived and awkward to manage, so most guys go with Gas or Oil burners. Here's my incredibly simple but VERY effective oil burner... ruclips.net/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/видео.html Electric is great but slow. It's probably the most expensive way as well. It's ideal for those who can't work outdoors much (maybe because of whether or even neighbours). This list is beginning to sound a little daunting but I do have all of these in a helpful playlist. It includes King's mini metal foundry as well. Here's the playlist ruclips.net/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/видео.html If you've got any more questions, feel free to drop me a line : )
Hey VOG, I've been watching your videos and building my own vacuum lost-wax casting setup, and they've been incredibly helpful. I had some questions about the mortar you used. Is it the type or mortar that sets after mixed with water? Or is it the kind that comes premixed and dries out to set and is not rated for "outdoor use"? I'm having trouble finding a mortar that is fine-grained enough to spread around like sheetrock mud the way you do in your video. If you have the make/model of the mortar you used, would you mind sharing? Thanks!
The mortar was a special mix intended just for this purpose. Keeping it wet was tricky and the super-dry blocks pulled all the moisture out, so I used a paintbrush and water to help combat this. But where blocks meet, it dried in seconds, though I believe it didn't officially cure until it had been introduced to heat.
@@vogman Ok, I experienced the same thing. I experimented with painting the blocks with a watered-down mix like you did or just soaking the blocks like I did when cutting them (which I got from one of your other videos). Soaking them actually ended up being the easiest solution. But I was using a castable cement that cured chemically when mixed with water, so I couldn't keep it "alive" by continually adding water. And for whatever reason, the stuff I bought contained a range of grain sizes from microscopic to large pebbles (along with some fiberglass strands, both of which I assume were acting as binders for thick applications). I used a kitchen strainer to remove the really large pieces, but it was still impossible to spread. The stuff you used in your video looks extremely fine-grained. Was it the kind that "cures" when it dries out, or was it the kind that chemically cured with the addition of water?
Constant application of water was my approach to keeping it workable. It was a very fine cement, but it came premixed in an unmarked tub, so I have no details.
@@vogman Awesome, thanks for the info. Sounds like it had to have been a mix that cures by drying, not chemically. I was initially scared off of those because the manufacturers of those products indicate that the product will fail in high humidity conditions, though I don't know how true this is. But it sounds like it would be soooooo much easier to deal with than the chemically-curing stuff I was using. And I live in the desert anyway, so it's probably fine. Thanks again for the great videos! I love how you cover so many important points in such great detail.
Wow, this is such excellent video! Most informative and detailed I've seen to date yet. I too seen the other kid's video and loved it. This project has been on backburner for couple years now. I got soft firebrick and 100 feet of Kanthal wire sitting but wasn't sure how to calculate proper wattage, I understand all the basic math but what was confusing me is the fact I've read that once the wire heats up the resistance drops in half so this was throwing me off. Now is is really necessary to have such thick walls? All the kilns I've seen use thinner walls.
Hi Dima. The thickness of the walls helps RETAIN the heat. People skimp of this to keep costs down, but they lose precious heat. If I could, I'd double the thickness of my walls. Insulation is everything with this type of foundry. I'd recommend you don't skimp. Good luck with your build : )
Thanks Yaser. No, I don't think this particular wire is good for more than 1400C which I've certainly come pretty close to a few times. If you want that temperature, you'll need to investigate you wire options carefully. Hope this helps : )
My good Sir, You are so entertaining and i hard to get the eyes away from your videos! Would you kindly concider to sell me some of your heating element wires? we also use 220v 50Hz electricity here. I have want to start a small buisness and i dont afford a fancy foundry, so i thought to build my own thanks to your 3 part videos.
Hi Yaser. Sorry but I don't have any spare coils, but you can make them very easily (look out for my Coil Making video). This is where I bought my wire - www.potclays.co.uk/studio/search?_query=kanthal - but you may find somewhere closer to home. Also, remember that electricity is probably the most expensive foundry build. There's a lot of cheaper ways, using gas or recycled oil. Hope this helps : )
Hmmm. mo wonder my father said that we have a curse of our bloodline, when we wish something or someone good it shows other ppl that we are comiting a crime, well i thought you maybe could make you self a few English Pounds and get ritch. I have to say, my hat off for you Sir, and i wish you very well.
I would imagine it is possible but probably in an industrial environment with equipment not readily available to the home foundry enthusiast. For those kind of temperatures I'd probably stick with gas and a lot of insulation : )
Hello VOG, you have really inspired me , and I started to build my electric furnace as well. It's a 22x22x25cm (8.66"x8.66"x9.44" )chamber with a calculated power of 2.3 kW. The insulating bricks are 23 grade, rated for 1250 °C , I just finished to weld the steel frame on the edges :) . If you could please help me I have a question, how many hours the insulation bricks will last before trowing them off?
@@vogman My way to formulate a correct question in english is still a work in progress :) sorry , I mean, how many working hours the furnace can last? (If used properly) Thank you!
No problem my friend : ) I don't know for sure but they should last a few years. My foundry is used every week for several hours and is still in good condition : )
@@vogman The furnace is done and working :) , this is a little video of molten table salt , thank you again! drive.google.com/open?id=1f1p_H9PkxzYWOvOWcFqhHQ2cX_SlkcCk
Hi, great work! I start watching you because of your foundry toturials and now I am watching all your videos! I got a little question for you. I lived in Canada and all the outside electrical plug are only on 110/120V. There is 220V plug inside but they are use by oven and other big home appliance and they are not easily accessible from outside. Since I am not doing a big foundry like yours (propane tank size), I was wondering if 110/120V would work fine or it will take a eternity to heat up? Thanks.
Hi Renaud. Thanks for your kind words. Glad you're enjoying my videos : ) Any electric foundry is going to be slow. They take a long time to heat up. If you want fast, use propane or oil. However, the more efficient you make your foundry (thicker walls, better insulation, etc) the quicker it will heat up. And a smaller one will heat up much faster than a bigger one, so you are right to keep things small if you only have smaller projects in mind. So yes, a small one will work and if you insulate it well, it will store heat better and get hotter quicker - but still not as quick as gas or oil. However, electric are clean, quiet and simple... just turn on a switch a walk away. I hope this helps. Thanks again. Geoff
Hi Renaud. It's a difficult one to answer as I'm not there seeing what you're seeing. BUT purely from a physics viewpoint, higher voltage would be better. Power is what you're after and this is measured in Watts. You'll often see electrical heaters stating they are 3Kw or something (this being Kilo Watts which is a thousand watts, so 3000 watts). Power = Volts x Current Lets say the Current is 10 Amps... Power = 110 x 10 = 1100 Watts for the 110v Power = 220 x 10 = 2200 Watts for the 220v It's not quite that simple, but for a rough guide it will do for you. So personally, if I had access to both, I'd be looking to use the 220v. Here in the UK, commercial premises have 400V so you can see they have access to even more power. I hope this helps : )
Nice work bro , I have some questions in my mind so can u answer them n it will b very helpful for me . So, my is question is that at what volt ur furnace is workng at ? 440 or 220 . Is this type of furnace is suitable for annayling of mild steel ( binding wire ). Element u r using require how many Amps ? If it run for one hour than how many electric units it will consume ?
It would probably take more like 6 to 9 hours for those kind of temperatures but in theory yes : ) However, my Kanthal wire is only rated to 1400, so I think I'd look for a different rated coil first... better to keep some in reserve.
Excellent video! Very well thought out build plan and execution, and explanations were clear and concise. Your voice/accent added to a level of clarity, too. I have watched dozens of other videos on building an electric foundry and none are as well done as yours. I subscribed and moving on to the next videos in the series. One question: what are your thoughts on using heating elements from an electric stove?
I enjoyed Physics and Electronics when I was at school. That's it really. Just a basic grasp of the ideas and a willingness to apply the knowledge I was given by my betters : )
@@vogman I've been trying to learn physics and electronics for a while now. I'm a computer tech / programmer / music guy, but I find chem / phys / elec very hard to crack. I'm currently learning woodworking, metalworking too, so a lot of stuff on your channel is stuff I'm trying to figure out right now. I will be watching many of your videos! Can't wait to figure out what all this veg oil business is about.
13:00 Actually you may use several outlets. It's all about a "bottleneck" in your electricity supply line (current-wise). Some lines able to supply much more, than one outlet. 16A, 24A, 32A etc. You just must carefully assess the whole supply line and know what actual "bottleneck" is.
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This man is an absolute legend. It’s incredible enough how many complex projects he hits out of the park, but when you consider the fact that he makes in-depth tutorial videos WHILE he’s doing all of this- freaking incredible! 😮
For those around the world who don't have access to K23 porous insulating bricks (like myself) there's an alternative: Make a wooden frame for your brick and get two bags of cat litter. The transparent cat litter (sometimes with blue color-changing crystals) is porous silica, mix that with little bit of water and NaOH and heat to make Sodium silicate, it's a high-temperature binder, will look like a gel once cooled. Now get the other cat sand, the brown one that turns into chunks when pissed on, that's bentonite, mix it with saw dust and the Sodium silicate (mix it well) and put it into your mould and leave it to harden a little (it'll harden faster with CO2 if you have a source) then burn it on a firepit, you'll end up with a super-hard insulating porous brick. The sodium silicate-bentonite recipe is used for cores of sand-cast molds, it's a known and reliable recipe for high temp material, the saw dust is to create the pores, it can be replaced for styrofoam balls or anything else that will burn off (leaving the insulating gaps inside the brick). The result is brown porous brick that you'll need a sledge hammer to break.
Get a Sodium silicate recipe online, follow through and see if your sodium silicate doesn't foam too much when heated, even then you can scrape the excess. This worked for me much better than the ever cracking sand + plaster recipes. I know it's a lot of work but as I said I don't have K23 bricks and normal non-porous "firebricks" will not work well for this.
Since you'll have spare bentonite cat sand also know this type of cat sand can be ground and used as greensand for casting all sorts of non-ferrous metals. I'm not sure of the relation of cats and casting but it seems there is one.
Great tutorial, as always.
I am SO SO happy I found your channel! I've been really wanting to do in house wax casting, but the price of kilns is just out if this world. Thank you for sharing all your amazing projects with us! You've inspired me to get uncomfortable and try something I normally wouldn't. SO excited to recreate this kiln.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. There are many electric foundry videos out there but your is the best. Mostly because you explained the most important part - Understanding the coil. There are a thousand different ways to build the foundry but only one way to get the cool right and no one talks about that. I also like how you put the link to the other parts of the series. No one does that. 👍
That's very kind : )
that recessed hole for the coil is so satisfying! awesome video! i didnt know i wanted one of these so bad until now!
Thanks Michael : D
I LOVE how your furnace is opened for crucible removal. I'm very much looking forward to seeing tne rest of the videos in this series. :-)
Thanks Ron. It's much easier to do than you might think and it gives a lot of access - and to me that's always the awkward bit.
Wow!!!! You did an awesome job! Thank you so Mutch for the in- depth video (including the mistakes & corrections). That is sooo appreciated by those of us who actually will try to build one of these!!!! To your Honor!
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁
I admire your thorough approach of building this project! I am a silversmith and have been thinking about building something like this. I think I’m going to go with gas as my time is critical to get as much finished in a day. Thank you for the time you put into doing your videos! 🍺❤️
Lots of jewellers use a torch as melt in a small crucible. It's quick and easy. But I guess you still need a burnout oven if you're investment casting and that's what I use my electric furnace for these days 😁
Brilliant video!!! The most thorough and understandable video on this subject I've found. Thank you so much...
Thanks Dave : D
Content
1:12 - *Why electryc?*
1:42 - *Design*
2:26 - *Bricks*
2:58 - *Table*
3:25 - *Base*
5:09 - *Framework*
9:03 - *Recessing*
10:03 - *Coils:*
11:07 - *× Volts*
11:33 - *× Current*
12:33 - *× Power*
13:04 - *× Resistance*
14:17 - *× Stretching*
14:31 - *× Tails*
15:14 - *× Recessing*
15:48 - *Connections*
18:03 - *Brickwork*
20:20 - *Connections (Tails)*
21:39 - *Framework (Top)*
This I not understand .again try this
Thanks!
Hello,, I'm in deaf with dumb. From South India Tamil nadu. At Coimbatore
I want more electrical with watt for coil ..you can teacher for me
Thanks for this very kind donation. This page (lower down) talks about the calculations needed. It should help 😁
vegoilguy.co.uk/coilcalc.php
It’s the tip that the most sensitive part,..I told my wife 😂😂😂
i paused the video hahahaha im dying XDDD well played sir well played
Man I just heard this for the first time. He never changed his tone, it was perfect.
How did I miss this wonderful video... What a great build for a quiet furnace...
Thanks Walt. It's a nice little foundry that does the job well : )
Thermal wire insulation, pop round and see your mechanic, if he's not got any kicking around, ask him to hold on to any old lambda probes or exhaust temp sensors, these are insulated with the very same tube you used & will be free, cut the ends off and you have now got an insulated tube & some short lengths of quality wire.
Came across you a few years back, and I've come across you again doing other things, nice work
Great tip. Thanks for sharing that : )
I have watched many furnace videos and I have to say this is one of the best I have seen. Amazing ideas and work. Definitely subscribed!
Thanks Steve. That's very kind : )
Excellent. There are a few vids on differing methods of DIY furnace . Although this design is not the most basic ( ie sand , charcoal and hairdryer ). It looks simple enough and cleaner / more controllable.
Do you think this could be used as both a furnace to melt metal ( Aluminium probably first )
and then as a kiln to burn out wax from a plaster casting ? I would fit with PID / thermocouple to monitor temps
Im in the US, any idea where to get some firebricks, the ones in the UK have crazy shipping prices
This is an incredible video. The filming, editing a everything is really good, and the project is even better. You've earned a new subscriber.
Thanks Luis. Great to have you here : )
Top notch...well done
damn nice build! I am glad that there are still other people out there that were taught that if somethings worth doing then its worth doing right! Everyone gets lazy occasionally and cuts corners but it always comes back to bite ya in the ass even on the simplest of things. Course now that ya got a couple furnaces ya need a temp controlled chest style oven that's reasonably airtight that way you can heat treat your own aluminum castings and even do stuff under a co2,argon or nitrogen atmosphere when needed :)...chest style just makes it easy to displace the oxy and not use huge amounts of the bottled gases
I'm really enjoying this foundry. It's so easy to use. A chest? Who knows : )
Thanks for your input
wow. thank you. its not just the things u say its how u say them!
You're welcome 😊
Respectfully, fire brick mortar & Grade 28 fire bricks, Question, where do I get this Sir ? Do they sale it at a home Depot or Lowe's ? Or online ? I travel & have cash but can try to use a card if I need to....???? & Thank you kindly for your videos Sir Sincerest, Paul~
Amazing videos, style and content. You really are interested in having your viewer learn and utilize the knowledge and information you are providing. Thank you.
Thanks Tamur : )
In the USA we have split phase 240/120. From hot to neutral it is 120v, from hot to hot it is 240v. High draw appliances like stove, water heater, large a/c and stuff like that use 240v. Most other things use 120v.
Brotha you got that voice that should be a story teller. Awsome vid. Man
Thanks. Thanks really made me laugh : D
I wonder if the mental frame is necessary? Can I just use fire bricks and mortar?
I love the video, you have obviously put a lot of care and thought into making it easy to follow. I must admit that the engineer in me was somewhat horrified at the thought of supporting a foundry on a wooden frame, but I guess you would have told us if your house had burnt down the first time you used it :-) Best Regards Sarah
Hi Sarah. Thanks for the very kind words.
I toyed with building a metal support frame, but cost became an immediate issue, so I braved out wood.
Now I did expect to see the odd char mark given 1000C temps and the near proximity to that radiant heat, but to this day there remains none. Air, of course, is a thankfully good insulator and there's plenty of it around the far superior fire bricks that really contain those high temperatures : )
I’m just lining a Paula oven. Those bricks are glass non porous. How can I cut those same system wet them and miter saw?
Great to see you're back
Thanks Steve, but I haven't been anywhere. I've been building and enjoying my new toy.
I've a few more videos planned for the upcoming weeks. Hope you look out for those too.
Oh ! and what is the gauge of the Kanthal Wire you are using for coils ? Many Thanks
Hello, I need help. we are on the manufacture of an electric foundry; unfortunately the heating coils that we have to order are too powerful about 4000 watts; a single coil have a resistance of 4 ohms, I only have 220 V/ 10 A Max , what can I do to adapt to the power I have, thank you
Hi, I'm from Brazil, and congratulations for your channel!
Is the best Eletric Furnace in the internet
When you use around 13.3 meters, 23 ohms, 10 A, generate 138 kJ per minute, and if you use around 6.65 meters, 11.5 ohms, 20 A, generate 276 kJ per minute, would that be a better a fast option to melt aluminum? thank you so much!
If my max amps in Canada is 15 should I go with 12?
Çok güzel anlatmışsın.Tebrik ederim.Arkadaşım
awesome sir did you measure how many watt power generated and how long before steel, copper and al for getting melt for each kg?
All houses in the US are wired for 240 Volts AC but it's a split phase. There are 2 - 120 volt mains (added together for 240 volt) and a neutral.
Thanks for that : )
Brilliant, I've nearly watched all of your videos (at 2x speed). Cheers for being interesting.
Glad you enjoyed them : )
Its voltage that killst you not current. Nobody says "danger high current", but allthough a god video.
current or amps kills you, not volts.
This is fantastic!
I dont even need it for my needs.
Not sure what you do for a living but whatever it is, you're cut out for it.
I'm not sure what I do for a living either 😉😊
@@vogman I started binge watching your vids on casting and molds etc. Gotta say you've got me wanting to try my hand at it.
Just need lots of money for quality tools. 😆
That's true James... but I like to think I've come up with lots of affordable entry ideas along the way 😊
@@vogman absolutely. I absolutely feel like I'm about to get into jewelry just for the sake of saying I did it.
I'm only getting this deep because of a family situation to where I got a little scrap gold that needed refining so now that i have a base metal to play with and try to craft something neat other than plain ingots and coin rounds.
Can you help me find a way to make a mini electric foundery
Approximately how much did this project ultimately cost?
Love this design
The 30mm angle, what was the wall thickness you used?
I can get it in 3, 4 and 5mm, would like to keep the weight down as much as possible, hoping it was 3mm but wanted to check!
I imagine this gets hot enough to melt the Hydro meter as well...lol. Seriously though, what's the max temp of this design? Thanks.
Not to be a downer but as good as this foundry looks is it cheaper than just buying one of the same quality or no?
Hi, I have used the coil calculator on your website. The calculation showed a required wire length of 14.38 m (by 230 Volts, 8 Amps max., 2,9 Ohms/m (wire) and 8 mm inner diameter of the coil). I am a little confused why you should need 14.38 meters? To achieve 29 Ohms and with a wire resistance of 2,9 Ohms/m, I would calculate: 29/2,9 = 10 meters. So 10 meters of the wire should cause 29 Ohms?! Or am I wrong?
An answer would help me a lot!
Best greetings
LOL!!! at 10:43 you illustrate glowing hot coils in your hands without smoldering the fingers. It's like you're superman or something. Nice illustration work. Love the furnace and videos. Great job!
Many thanks. It's been one of my favourite projects so far : )
silica fire brick 3000 degrees Fahrenheit or rutland fire brick up to 2700 degrees Fahrenheit will this work for Making a forge ?
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Will be perfect for melting precipus metals, aluminum, copper, and maybe brass.
Yes... I've melted all of those : )
Vegoilguy built this in a cave! With a box of scraps!
Well, it's a garage, but it's a bit dark... and only SOME scraps... I had to buy a few things as well : )
@@vogman This comment was from the Marvel film Iron Man. He was comparing you to Iron Man.
This is a really great video series. However, when I came to starting the process of building my own, I came across a difficulty. I was able to locate the listing for the insulating firebrick blocks you used. However, the supplier would not ship to Canada. So I began searching in Canada. And there came the shocker: The cost of one (1) brick, the same type as you used (also TAOW), cost more than an entire crate of the same brick, purchased in the UK. I contacted the local supplier directly, rather than through the common sales web site, and asked why there was such an astonishing price difference. I was told that "our bricks are a much higher grade." Some weeks later, I was able to visit the supplier personally. I discovered that their insulating firebrick is exactly the same as what you used, in every respect, including the original manufacturer. Ordering insulating firebrick from the U.S.A. was not feasible because of customs issues. In any case, the bricks from the U.S. maker were a poorer grade of insulator.
So, at this point, I'm stuck. I suppose I could fly to the UK business class, purchase two crates, perhaps three of the insulating firebrick you use in these videos, and return to Canada with it. Believe it or not, to do so would cost less than ordering from the intermediary supplier in Canada.
I'm now in search of alternative sources, or how a different type of high-temperature insulator might be used. I have some experience in engineering, which helps, but to be brutally honest, the supplier for this refractory material here is just incredibly greedy, as well as being "economical with the truth."
When I was still working professionally, any supplier who gave bad information went onto a special list of companies from whom we would not buy so much as a thumbtack.
Thanks for your work in making this series - it was really instructive, and chock full of information. And who knows - I may yet make a trip to the UK, just to buy the insulating firebrick (and have a bit of a holiday as well).
Wow... that's terrible. I'm genuinely shocked. In honesty I'm used to things being the other way around. This side of the pond we often watch videos in quiet awe of the items you guys seem to pick up from the local hardware store.
I always assumed at the very least "similar" items were available in most parts of the world. I never considered that there'd be such unreasonable variations in cost.
Here's something to consider... I'm aware over here that store purchased electric and gas furnaces are lined with bricks of a similar type to these (here's a typical example - www.castreekilns.co.uk/front-loading-gas-kiln-gdf02-920-p.asp)
I'm sure such furnaces / kilns are made in Canada as well. They're frequently used to fire pottery. If you can find a friendly purveyor, you might be able to track down some bricks.
Sorry for the frustration I've caused you. I hope things work out.
All the best.
Had a quick search and canadianforge.com/ has them for $18.99 - just in case your still looking
I'm in the UK and have no connection to the above co
good luck
How's that Kanthal wire holding up is it as good or better than the other types of wires used? Any cons?
It pretty hardy stuff. I tend to find it lasts around 9 months for me on average, but I use my kilns frequently : )
This project Secure i can made it ????? In my country very hard find this Foundry
Hi. Yes this foundry works well. It's used at least a couple of times a week.
@@vogman What if you touch the heat "elements" with something metal. Aint you gonna get shocked?
@@thombaz Potentially yes. It's high current within the wire resisting which the heat in produced.
17:30 wtf xD,
totally unexpected lol
I like to throw in the odd surprise to check if my audience are still awake ; )
Like i say too my wife, its the tip thats the most sensitive ha ha, love your work and the description you give, if i ever get round to building one ill definatly be following your vidios.
Thanks also for the time and effort you put in ;)
Thanks Kris.
The problem is, she still doesn't get it LOL
SHE doesn't get it, or YOU don't?
In the interests of decency, I cannot answer ; )
@@vogman
We know the answer and it's why your are tinkering around building a furnace to keep busy.
Damn coolest furnace ive seen... I've not seen many lmao
Many thanks 😁
Very good video, I learned a lot. You impress me with your dedication and understanding of what needs explaining. Very good fun watching.
Thanks Christian. I appreciate that : )
Thanks Bro. Thanks so much. Awesome vid.
Many thanks 😁
would it be posible to make a burn out oven like this?
Hi Adrian. That's exactly what I use mine for. You can drill a small vent in the lid for escaping gases (I just leave the lid open a tiny bit) and fitting a simple extruder hood nearby means a smoke free workroom 😁
@@vogman Thanks for the reply.. I am just looking to see if I can find an old Pottery kiln near me as I feel that could work also, if I cannot then I will make one of these as it is such a good idea..
I want to cast metal RC parts and all the ovens I can afford are just too small for my needs
Why the hell don't people watch this stuff? This is great.
You've watched it. That makes me happy : )
Which screws and bolts work good on the Metal instead of welding?
This coil stuff is confusing the hell out of me. I need 53 in long coil with 120v and 13A with a resistance of 9.231 ohms. What does the gurth have to do with it and how do I find it ?
Subscribed, a very lengthy detailed explanation, Thank you indeed.
That's great to hear... just do me a favour... if you're looking to make an electric furnace, don't make any purchases until you've seen tomorrow's video : )
@@vogman Sure thing, Thanks again
Wow what an awesome presentation, with all the information and detail. Surely am looking forward to the whole build before starting on one. Thank you for sharing :-)
Thanks Glen. All the footage is there. I've just got to finish editing it and then I'll be pleased to share it.
Really good video again and great design, if only firebricks weren't so expensive.
Although i have gotten away with using large paving stones from time to time
Many thanks. Yes, firebricks are expensive... as they aren't commonly used, the price will probably always be high... shame.
Really good work.
Many thanks : )
US houses have both 110v and 220v services. Usually only large appliances are wired to 220v so 220v sockets are not in most rooms of a house. The 220v is achieved by connecting two 180 degree out of phase 110v mains. This is what is supplied to almost all residential housing.
Thanks for that Matt. I'd heard this was the case in Canada (I think) but it's good to have a better understanding of my US viewers situation as well. It helps me plan future projects : )
@@vogman Its the same in Canada as the US. I'm currently working my way through ALL your videos Geoff. This channel of yours is a real jackpot for retirees like me that have enough time and money to "start" anything...... I'm sure I'll be beaming you off some questions later but will be trying to get through ALL of them before I do in case later videos clear things up.... Cheers from the colonies!
Lewis
Curious, did you reference a watt loss chart for the surface area of your element?
Also good tip for coil grooves in the future, as yours will be hard to replace. Stack two bricks, and cut a slot at a 45 degree angle downward. It will remove half or so of the bottom corner of the top brick, and cut a groove downward into the top of the bottom brick for the element to sit in. A few U shaped pins of the kanthal wire into the brick over the element to keep it in place. That way when element burns out you just unpin it and pull it out. then feed new ends through holes in the brick. This also allows for better heat transfer to the kiln environment because of more open area.
Also the thermocouple absolutely should protrude atleast 1/2 inch if you need precise temps. But for your applications you probably don't notice and can easily figure out the offset .
Incredible video. Thanks for the tip tip.. LOL :)
Any time!
Love what you have done but could you tell me were you got your thermocouple controller from please
Hi Aaron. I just spent a few minutes browsing eBay. There's usually something there : )
I'm thinking about getting into metal casting, and I was wondering if I should start with an electric (like this) or use a fuel furnace to start with?
It's great to hear from someone interested in casting.
Where should you start? I'd recommend visiting King Of Random and looking at his Mini Metal Foundry. This will show you how to very cheap plaster foundry powered by a hair dryer and BBQ charcoal. It's a great place to start as it costs very little but gives you a taste of what can be achieved.
The drawback of this is that plaster foundries have a very short lifespan and quickly fall apart. If you're keen to make something more permanent but still affordable then I'd recommend a Refractory build. You can see my video on this here... ruclips.net/video/n42t3M1fOyY/видео.html. It's important to note, however, that this sort of foundry will need insulating. Here's my cheap plaster insulation video - ruclips.net/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/видео.html
You'll need to power the foundry and solid fuels tend to be short-lived and awkward to manage, so most guys go with Gas or Oil burners. Here's my incredibly simple but VERY effective oil burner... ruclips.net/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/видео.html
Electric is great but slow. It's probably the most expensive way as well. It's ideal for those who can't work outdoors much (maybe because of whether or even neighbours).
This list is beginning to sound a little daunting but I do have all of these in a helpful playlist. It includes King's mini metal foundry as well. Here's the playlist ruclips.net/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/видео.html
If you've got any more questions, feel free to drop me a line : )
Hexagons are the bestagons
Maybe you've answered this but what temp can it get up to before the resistance wire gives up? Or what temp do you confidently take it to?
Hi Scott. The Kanthal wire burns out at 1400C, so that's the very hottest it could go : )
@@vogman cheers mate. Appreciate the details.
No worries.
Hey VOG, I've been watching your videos and building my own vacuum lost-wax casting setup, and they've been incredibly helpful. I had some questions about the mortar you used. Is it the type or mortar that sets after mixed with water? Or is it the kind that comes premixed and dries out to set and is not rated for "outdoor use"? I'm having trouble finding a mortar that is fine-grained enough to spread around like sheetrock mud the way you do in your video. If you have the make/model of the mortar you used, would you mind sharing? Thanks!
The mortar was a special mix intended just for this purpose. Keeping it wet was tricky and the super-dry blocks pulled all the moisture out, so I used a paintbrush and water to help combat this. But where blocks meet, it dried in seconds, though I believe it didn't officially cure until it had been introduced to heat.
@@vogman Ok, I experienced the same thing. I experimented with painting the blocks with a watered-down mix like you did or just soaking the blocks like I did when cutting them (which I got from one of your other videos). Soaking them actually ended up being the easiest solution. But I was using a castable cement that cured chemically when mixed with water, so I couldn't keep it "alive" by continually adding water. And for whatever reason, the stuff I bought contained a range of grain sizes from microscopic to large pebbles (along with some fiberglass strands, both of which I assume were acting as binders for thick applications). I used a kitchen strainer to remove the really large pieces, but it was still impossible to spread. The stuff you used in your video looks extremely fine-grained. Was it the kind that "cures" when it dries out, or was it the kind that chemically cured with the addition of water?
Constant application of water was my approach to keeping it workable.
It was a very fine cement, but it came premixed in an unmarked tub, so I have no details.
@@vogman Awesome, thanks for the info. Sounds like it had to have been a mix that cures by drying, not chemically. I was initially scared off of those because the manufacturers of those products indicate that the product will fail in high humidity conditions, though I don't know how true this is. But it sounds like it would be soooooo much easier to deal with than the chemically-curing stuff I was using. And I live in the desert anyway, so it's probably fine.
Thanks again for the great videos! I love how you cover so many important points in such great detail.
Can you melt copper in this forge?
Yes.
en mi país no he podido encontrar de esos "bricks"
Vape videos brought me here, now I want to build a ceramics kiln for some odd reason.
A kiln has the same electrical circuit and function of an ecig, at least the coil anyway, lol.
Wow, this is such excellent video! Most informative and detailed I've seen to date yet. I too seen the other kid's video and loved it. This project has been on backburner for couple years now. I got soft firebrick and 100 feet of Kanthal wire sitting but wasn't sure how to calculate proper wattage, I understand all the basic math but what was confusing me is the fact I've read that once the wire heats up the resistance drops in half so this was throwing me off. Now is is really necessary to have such thick walls? All the kilns I've seen use thinner walls.
Hi Dima. The thickness of the walls helps RETAIN the heat. People skimp of this to keep costs down, but they lose precious heat. If I could, I'd double the thickness of my walls. Insulation is everything with this type of foundry. I'd recommend you don't skimp.
Good luck with your build : )
What did your wife say about you building that in the house? I would never get away with that, great film though.
she thinks its a hot build ;D
Too bad I have a tiny house and the rest of the buildings a lot of tools shops. The country is where we live. Maybe you live i. Suburbia
I need to know, where did you find your thermocouple? Does it's range limit your heat capabilities? What is your thermocouple range?
I got my thermocouple from eBay. They come in different temperature ranges, so you just need to choose one that matches your requirements : )
VegOilGuy ok thank you for the response!
Good Job Sir, could you please tell me if you have rached 1600 Celcius degrees with your coils?
Thanks Yaser. No, I don't think this particular wire is good for more than 1400C which I've certainly come pretty close to a few times. If you want that temperature, you'll need to investigate you wire options carefully.
Hope this helps : )
My good Sir,
You are so entertaining and i hard to get the eyes away from your videos!
Would you kindly concider to sell me some of your heating element wires? we also use 220v 50Hz electricity here.
I have want to start a small buisness and i dont afford a fancy foundry, so i thought to build my own thanks to your 3 part videos.
Hi Yaser. Sorry but I don't have any spare coils, but you can make them very easily (look out for my Coil Making video). This is where I bought my wire - www.potclays.co.uk/studio/search?_query=kanthal - but you may find somewhere closer to home.
Also, remember that electricity is probably the most expensive foundry build. There's a lot of cheaper ways, using gas or recycled oil.
Hope this helps : )
Hmmm. mo wonder my father said that we have a curse of our bloodline, when we wish something or someone good it shows other ppl that we are comiting a crime, well i thought you maybe could make you self a few English Pounds and get ritch.
I have to say, my hat off for you Sir, and i wish you very well.
Well how doas this work? bigger dimension more heat??
It's volts that jolts, but mils that kills!!
👍
Thank you for a very informative video. Where did you purchase you nichrome wire?
Hi Lars. I actually used Kanthal wire, which I purchased from here - www.potclays.co.uk
Hope this helps : )
@@vogman thank you sir
Before continuing, perhaps you should fashion a link for your watch out of all that scrap metal.
Do you think it's possible for an electric coil to melt iron? or would this only be capable of brass/bronze?
I would imagine it is possible but probably in an industrial environment with equipment not readily available to the home foundry enthusiast. For those kind of temperatures I'd probably stick with gas and a lot of insulation : )
nekidfrog I reckon kanthal element could melt steel. It's operating temperature is 1400°C.
I thought this was about an induction furnace, which is more efficient? :o
Hello VOG, you have really inspired me , and I started to build my electric furnace as well. It's a 22x22x25cm (8.66"x8.66"x9.44" )chamber with a calculated power of 2.3 kW. The insulating bricks are 23 grade, rated for 1250 °C , I just finished to weld the steel frame on the edges :) . If you could please help me I have a question, how many hours the insulation bricks will last before trowing them off?
Hi. The mortar dries quite quickly. I think I only waited about 24 hours before moving on. I hope this helps : )
@@vogman My way to formulate a correct question in english is still a work in progress :) sorry , I mean, how many working hours the furnace can last? (If used properly) Thank you!
No problem my friend : )
I don't know for sure but they should last a few years. My foundry is used every week for several hours and is still in good condition : )
@@vogman The furnace is done and working :) , this is a little video of molten table salt , thank you again! drive.google.com/open?id=1f1p_H9PkxzYWOvOWcFqhHQ2cX_SlkcCk
Does anyone know how to set the temperature on the pdi my model inkbird itc-100vh thank you
pmod79883.pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/ITC-100_Manual_V1.pdf
Very nice work , you desingne es perfec .
Thanks : )
Hi, great work! I start watching you because of your foundry toturials and now I am watching all your videos!
I got a little question for you. I lived in Canada and all the outside electrical plug are only on 110/120V. There is 220V plug inside but they are use by oven and other big home appliance and they are not easily accessible from outside. Since I am not doing a big foundry like yours (propane tank size), I was wondering if 110/120V would work fine or it will take a eternity to heat up? Thanks.
Hi Renaud. Thanks for your kind words. Glad you're enjoying my videos : )
Any electric foundry is going to be slow. They take a long time to heat up. If you want fast, use propane or oil.
However, the more efficient you make your foundry (thicker walls, better insulation, etc) the quicker it will heat up. And a smaller one will heat up much faster than a bigger one, so you are right to keep things small if you only have smaller projects in mind.
So yes, a small one will work and if you insulate it well, it will store heat better and get hotter quicker - but still not as quick as gas or oil. However, electric are clean, quiet and simple... just turn on a switch a walk away.
I hope this helps. Thanks again.
Geoff
With your experience, how much longer would it be with 110V compare to 220V?
Hi Renaud. It's a difficult one to answer as I'm not there seeing what you're seeing. BUT purely from a physics viewpoint, higher voltage would be better.
Power is what you're after and this is measured in Watts. You'll often see electrical heaters stating they are 3Kw or something (this being Kilo Watts which is a thousand watts, so 3000 watts).
Power = Volts x Current
Lets say the Current is 10 Amps...
Power = 110 x 10 = 1100 Watts for the 110v
Power = 220 x 10 = 2200 Watts for the 220v
It's not quite that simple, but for a rough guide it will do for you. So personally, if I had access to both, I'd be looking to use the 220v.
Here in the UK, commercial premises have 400V so you can see they have access to even more power.
I hope this helps : )
Yes thank you.
Nice work bro , I have some questions in my mind so can u answer them n it will b very helpful for me .
So, my is question is that at what volt ur furnace is workng at ? 440 or 220 .
Is this type of furnace is suitable for annayling of mild steel ( binding wire ).
Element u r using require how many Amps ?
If it run for one hour than how many electric units it will consume ?
Hi Adeel. Here goes... 220v. Should be fine for annealing. Roughly 10 Amps. Haven't a clue.
Hope that helps : )
VOG I think the commenter means energy units, so it’s 220 V * 10 A * 1 h = 2200 Wh = 2.2 kWh in one hour, or a power consumption of 2200 W.
How can it be made much bigger (in sq. ft.)
Just add more bricks. The size and shape is completely up to you. This is just an example of what can be done : )
@@vogman thank you, sir.
hey dude can it melt till 1400 C if left for 3-4 hours
It would probably take more like 6 to 9 hours for those kind of temperatures but in theory yes : )
However, my Kanthal wire is only rated to 1400, so I think I'd look for a different rated coil first... better to keep some in reserve.
It would be interesting to test if we can melt that much aluminium with say a 10Kw induction furnace.......
With 10 kw you can melt 50 kg I think
Excellent video! Very well thought out build plan and execution, and explanations were clear and concise. Your voice/accent added to a level of clarity, too.
I have watched dozens of other videos on building an electric foundry and none are as well done as yours. I subscribed and moving on to the next videos in the series.
One question: what are your thoughts on using heating elements from an electric stove?
I'd personally recommend making your own heating elements. It's easy...
ruclips.net/video/I-5_MN5_Fmc/видео.html
: )
How did you learn about electricity / furnaces? Was it all Internet and experimenting? Any schooling? A mentor?
I enjoyed Physics and Electronics when I was at school. That's it really. Just a basic grasp of the ideas and a willingness to apply the knowledge I was given by my betters : )
@@vogman I've been trying to learn physics and electronics for a while now. I'm a computer tech / programmer / music guy, but I find chem / phys / elec very hard to crack. I'm currently learning woodworking, metalworking too, so a lot of stuff on your channel is stuff I'm trying to figure out right now. I will be watching many of your videos! Can't wait to figure out what all this veg oil business is about.
Please do video on diy charcoal foundry?
Hi Ajas, I did one a while ago - ruclips.net/video/n42t3M1fOyY/видео.html
And yes, it's still going strong : )
I just found this and love your design. What gauge kanthal wire did you use for your coils? I didn't see it in the video. I really enjoy your channel!
Hi Mark. Great to have you here : )
This is the exact wire I use - www.potclays.co.uk/studio/products/10359/10mm-kanthal-wire-1m
Thanks for the link! This converts to 18 AWG if anyone else is wondering. Thanks again Jeff!
No worries. Thanks for sharing the convert info : )
13:00 Actually you may use several outlets. It's all about a "bottleneck" in your electricity supply line (current-wise). Some lines able to supply much more, than one outlet. 16A, 24A, 32A etc. You just must carefully assess the whole supply line and know what actual "bottleneck" is.