Looks great! One thing I might add is that the eyes clamping the end of the wire rope were backwards. The metal clamp portion should be on the end part of the rope, not the body. This provides the actual clamping/crimping resistance to keep the rope from pulling through the eyes. The smooth eye portion should be on the body side of the rope.
The lid bothered me as I was building it. I wondered if it would cope and I kept adding more and more pieces to beef up the strength. So far, it's held up brilliantly. It's a nice strong structure : )
Thanks Glenn. I didn't like the idea of splitting up the subject into more than one video, but I felt it was necessary to get across the important points. Part 3 should be with you next week : )
My old dad once said to me, "If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right" and it's always stuck with me. I like easy, I like simple, I like reliable and efficient. For me this build was all of these. It's a great foundry.
Please use separate lock washers for your grounding next time as those screws will eventually come loose when not secured! Other than that I really like this build. Well thought out and nicely laid out :)
The best mortar for the light fire bricks is the "MIZZOU" its a mortar designed for dipped brick mortar refractory applications. it is an absolute dream to work with and is designed for the porous refractory bricks. Looks like a nice forge!
Nice project! Good build, and as usual, a nice calmly paced video production. Which would you say is easier to build; the oil burner foundry, or this one?
Thanks Niclas. Very kind words : ) That's a tricky one to answer. I think it really comes down to what you want or what you like. The fastest way to get going is a refractory foundry, especially with added insulation (like the simple plaster coating). You can have this done in a couple of weekends and if the weather is kind you can be melting metal. It's the cheaper solution, it's quick, but it's noisy (the air roars like a mini jet) and a bit fiddly. So if you've got sensitive neighbours you may find yourself apologising a lot. If you've happy with welding and capable of basic carpentry, the electric is easy to do. But it's more expensive and takes a lot longer to build. It also takes a long time to melt metals (about 3 hours for a full A6 crucible of aluminium). However, it's wonderfully simple to use - just push a button and relax. It's silent and can be done indoors, avoiding the weather. I can see me using both... but I'll use the outside refractory foundry for making ingots and rough work - and the electric for actual castings. I hope this long-winded reply helps a little.
It definitely helps, thank you. I have a nice work space, and almost everything I need for a foundry build, but my space is not yet organized, it's a mess, to be honest. I'm looking forward to trying my hand at an oil burner foundry this spring, when my shed is in order, but I also think an electric foundry would be handy to have. Less set up, less noise, no fuel, just plug i and go. As we say in Sweden, the one does not exclude the other...
It should be long lasting. Hopefully it will give me a number of years use. I might have to replace the cools (hence no mortar between rows) and bricks do crack in kilns, so so replacement may be necessary, but I do hope it will last a while. I also hope it's not too complex. It's just Lego really, one brick on top of another. The frame is tricky if you're an amateur welder like me, but it can be done : )
If golds your game I wouldn't recommend a foundry this size. There's lots of small, table top foundrys especially for jewellers, some quite cheaply priced. Have a look on castreekilns.co.uk - I'm sure I saw one around £150. The bricks alone for my set up cost that. TAOWs kiln would also be fine for you so take a look at that : )
This video was my way of showing what's possible. I pleased to say I've heard from dozens of people who've build their own versions, each a little differently, but after taking a little inspiration from my build. That's the sort of thing I really love to hear. Feel free to modify, adapt and improve Eric. That's what it's about my friend 😁
This video was my way of showing what's possible. I pleased to say I've heard from dozens of people who've build their own versions, each a little differently, but after taking a little inspiration from my build. That's the sort of thing I really love to hear. Feel free to modify, adapt and improve Eric. That's what it's about my friend 😁
now you have had some time to use it have you found any problems with the plastic in the ring connectors and copper wires connecting to the coils from heat ?
curious is there any benefit in using larger diameter coil wires from smaller ones keep the gage wire the same why should you uses smaller coils vs larger coils. Anything other then size restrictions does it dissipate heat better in anyway After all the math is the same for everything except the length of the wire coil is going to be smaller with large diameter coils then smaller ones.
The coil diameter simply relates to the length of the coil. It's about taking up space. I small diameter coil will be longer than a broader diameter coil, if we assume the wire is the same length. So when you're looking to pack X amount of wire into a space of limited volume, you need to start thinking in these terms : )
@@vogman Ok that all its for its not like its make more heat or distributing it in some way better. In theory if i had enough space i could not even coil the wire at all and get the same heat rate . Though you do get different magnetic fields when coiling but that has nothing to do with the heating parts of the kiln. Very cool thanks for the help i think i am almost ready to create any reasonable size kiln. Is there any better wire then tungsten wire that is the highest melting point metal element one can uses but maybe you know of a more stronger wire metal alloy that is more durable and a better heat source ?
@@vogman Also once you calculate the resistance and length of wire you need how do you know how much heat it generates per unit of time. Is there a rating on the wire you buy for that or just ohm per meter ? Because knowing how much btu/hour it gives off and assuming perfect insulation you get a crude way to compute the rate at which it will get to a given temp. Ofcourse max temp is controlled by efficiency of insulation to.
You need something more positive to retain the mains cable - that grommet is OK to prevent chaffing but will not prevent it pulling out. A clamp on the inner side of the grommet perhaps?
@@vogman Thanks! I've been wanting to make some aluminum bronze in my own electric furnace and was curious as to how the Kanthal wire stood up to the higher heat (higher than aluminum temperatures).
These videos are so good they would probably have gone viral if you allowed public ratings on them. When you don't allow public ratings then the video is highly unlikely to ever gain traction.
Thanks for the kind words. It's much appreciated. I can't really imagine anything of mine going viral but thanks for the public ratings spot. I hadn't noticed that option wasn't clicked. I've spent a few minutes going threw my videos and some are and some aren't. I'll set them all to 'on' though personally I like to think people either Like or Dislike on the basis of what they think, rather than worrying about what others feel : )
That depends on what you mean by "forge knives." If you mean "cast" a knife from molten metal like aluminium or bronze, then yes, though these are mainly replica knives. If you mean can you heat and work steel, I'd say no. Electric is much too slow for that. Hope this helps : )
I love your enthusiasm but I really don't think electricity will do it for you. It's possible of course, but you'd have to use a LOT of power. My foundry is only around 2Kw and it takes me about 9 hours to melt copper. So 12Kw will get you a lot closer, but you've got to retain that heat for it to really work. If you're looking for an environmentally friendly approach, why not try waste veg oil. It's amazing what you can do with an oil burner : )
Depends where you are in the world really. It's just a case of doing an internet search for Grade 28 Fire Bricks and finding the best deal. For me at the time it was a company called castrekilns.co.uk but I've since seen cheaper. Shop around : )
You're not gonna get a better insulating material for the money than KAO wool Lol. What do you think blacksmith forges are insulated with And the temps and our forges regularly get above 2000ﾟF
Hi Bruce, that sounds strange. For your ease: Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/XypmI38IKAw/видео.html Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/QOfCKiQjSds/видео.html Part 3 - ruclips.net/video/jHCnYy39Oxc/видео.html Can you remember where you spotted the broken link? This will help me track it down and correct it. Thanks.
I dont wanna be bitchy again ,i rely like your channel ,and you did something nobody else did -but how much when you draw the line did all this cost you?looks expensive,with firebricks and ceramic insulation (probably most expensive component).
That's not bitchy, that's a perfectly fair question.Unfortunately I can't give an exact answer because a lot of the stuff I already had to hand (angle iron, lengths of wood, etc). Firebricks aren't cheap and I think I said in the video that they cost me £5 each - and I had 30, so that's £150. The mortar I think was £25. The insulation is £9 a meter - and I bought 2 meters, though really I only needed one, so leave that at £9. The PID is roughly £25 - there's always deals on those, plus I bought a separate thermocouple for £9. Timber isn't cheap... I think it cost me £50 for two lengths of 4x4 (robbery). Wire rope is cheap enough (and I already had some - sorry) along with regular rope. And as I say, everything else I pretty much had to hand - screws, glue, cotton cloth, metal putty, bolts... typical shed stuff. - you should see my shed : ) I even already had the wheelchair motor. I love those things. I think I got that one on eBay for £40 - a real bargain. But they can go for twice that. So yes, it all adds up, but a lot of what I did here was optional and hopefully I've got something that will last for years. Plus, if I'd purchased something like this brand new I would imagine it would be a thousand or two. In truth I was making a tool, something that will work well for me and most importantly, something that I enjoyed building.
This video is extremely well put together. The explanations are excellent. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Rod. That's very kind.
Great job... 👏👏👏
Coolest foundry build I've seen. Killer job
Looks great! One thing I might add is that the eyes clamping the end of the wire rope were backwards. The metal clamp portion should be on the end part of the rope, not the body. This provides the actual clamping/crimping resistance to keep the rope from pulling through the eyes. The smooth eye portion should be on the body side of the rope.
These are some of the best put together videos on RUclips. Thanks for the work you put into presenting this. Give my regards to Dave the lid.
Dave says thanks 😁
Thanks for sharing this build with us, most interesting. I didn't think the lid looked like a safe at all, more appropriately like a Mosque
The lid bothered me as I was building it. I wondered if it would cope and I kept adding more and more pieces to beef up the strength. So far, it's held up brilliantly. It's a nice strong structure : )
Content
0:22 - *Coating*
1:08 - *Lid*
2:32 - *Lid Hinge*
4:04 - *Electrics*
6:32 - *Side Supports*
8:21 - *Insulation*
9:54 - *Corners*
10:55 - *Vertical Frames*
12:46 - *Pulleys*
17:55 - *Hoist*
Excellent presentation and good pointers here. Thank you much and am looking forward to part 3.
Thanks Glenn. I didn't like the idea of splitting up the subject into more than one video, but I felt it was necessary to get across the important points.
Part 3 should be with you next week : )
Dang! Well done and well narrated Veg!! Looking forward to part 3!!!
Thanks Randyrru. It's my favourite project to date.
The next part should hopefully be with you next week.
Wow. You've really gone all-out with this furnace. You must be planning to use it a lot! It looks like it will serve you well. Bravo! :-)
My old dad once said to me, "If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right" and it's always stuck with me.
I like easy, I like simple, I like reliable and efficient. For me this build was all of these. It's a great foundry.
:-)
I liked how you used some classical mechanics
With your build
And all the additional measurements
your animations are so good. Thanks for the work on the video :)
Thanks Aidan. They take a long time to do but I hope to make things easier to understand.
Please use separate lock washers for your grounding next time as those screws will eventually come loose when not secured! Other than that I really like this build. Well thought out and nicely laid out :)
The best mortar for the light fire bricks is the "MIZZOU" its a mortar designed for dipped brick mortar refractory applications. it is an absolute dream to work with and is designed for the porous refractory bricks. Looks like a nice forge!
Thanks Adam.
Great stuff Geoff!
Thanks Stephen
really cool
many thanks : )
7:03 Jedi powers revealed.
I saw that too and was like wtf did I just see...
How much did this all cost? Does it essentially replace a burnout furnace for jewelry?
Nice project! Good build, and as usual, a nice calmly paced video production. Which would you say is easier to build; the oil burner foundry, or this one?
Thanks Niclas. Very kind words : )
That's a tricky one to answer. I think it really comes down to what you want or what you like.
The fastest way to get going is a refractory foundry, especially with added insulation (like the simple plaster coating). You can have this done in a couple of weekends and if the weather is kind you can be melting metal. It's the cheaper solution, it's quick, but it's noisy (the air roars like a mini jet) and a bit fiddly. So if you've got sensitive neighbours you may find yourself apologising a lot.
If you've happy with welding and capable of basic carpentry, the electric is easy to do. But it's more expensive and takes a lot longer to build. It also takes a long time to melt metals (about 3 hours for a full A6 crucible of aluminium). However, it's wonderfully simple to use - just push a button and relax. It's silent and can be done indoors, avoiding the weather.
I can see me using both... but I'll use the outside refractory foundry for making ingots and rough work - and the electric for actual castings.
I hope this long-winded reply helps a little.
It definitely helps, thank you. I have a nice work space, and almost everything I need for a foundry build, but my space is not yet organized, it's a mess, to be honest. I'm looking forward to trying my hand at an oil burner foundry this spring, when my shed is in order, but I also think an electric foundry would be handy to have. Less set up, less noise, no fuel, just plug i and go. As we say in Sweden, the one does not exclude the other...
I know the feeling. I make a mess when I try and tidy up : )
OMG so cool!!!! its so long lasting and complex!!!!
It should be long lasting. Hopefully it will give me a number of years use.
I might have to replace the cools (hence no mortar between rows) and bricks do crack in kilns, so so replacement may be necessary, but I do hope it will last a while.
I also hope it's not too complex. It's just Lego really, one brick on top of another. The frame is tricky if you're an amateur welder like me, but it can be done : )
lol yah i wanted to do something like that so i can reach over 1000C and melt gold (i dont have gold but i want to refine it)
If golds your game I wouldn't recommend a foundry this size. There's lots of small, table top foundrys especially for jewellers, some quite cheaply priced. Have a look on castreekilns.co.uk - I'm sure I saw one around £150. The bricks alone for my set up cost that. TAOWs kiln would also be fine for you so take a look at that : )
well im not a jewler i just want to melt a peice of gold to a bead...
Have you tried a blowtorch and small crucible? I'm sure I saw that in a video once. Might be worth trying just to see.
Its so freaking awesome
Thanks John : )
I grounded my metal frame as well, but at 1000 °C my firebricks become electrically conductive and the RCD goes... Is that normal? Any advice?
As an alternative, a 230v 300KG scaffolding winch for a bit over 60 quid (UK) might be as cheap as buying the transformer and motor etc. 😇
Hi mate, how is this working for you 2 years later?
Just a thought but wouldn’t it be better to lower a table without the components and the element / hot stuff remain stationary?
This video was my way of showing what's possible. I pleased to say I've heard from dozens of people who've build their own versions, each a little differently, but after taking a little inspiration from my build. That's the sort of thing I really love to hear. Feel free to modify, adapt and improve Eric. That's what it's about my friend 😁
This video was my way of showing what's possible. I pleased to say I've heard from dozens of people who've build their own versions, each a little differently, but after taking a little inspiration from my build. That's the sort of thing I really love to hear. Feel free to modify, adapt and improve Eric. That's what it's about my friend 😁
now you have had some time to use it have you found any problems with the plastic in the ring connectors and copper wires connecting to the coils from heat ?
Hi Matthew, I haven't had any problems. Everything is still good : )
curious is there any benefit in using larger diameter coil wires from smaller ones keep the gage wire the same why should you uses smaller coils vs larger coils. Anything other then size restrictions does it dissipate heat better in anyway After all the math is the same for everything except the length of the wire coil is going to be smaller with large diameter coils then smaller ones.
The coil diameter simply relates to the length of the coil. It's about taking up space. I small diameter coil will be longer than a broader diameter coil, if we assume the wire is the same length. So when you're looking to pack X amount of wire into a space of limited volume, you need to start thinking in these terms : )
@@vogman Ok that all its for its not like its make more heat or distributing it in some way better. In theory if i had enough space i could not even coil the wire at all and get the same heat rate . Though you do get different magnetic fields when coiling but that has nothing to do with the heating parts of the kiln. Very cool thanks for the help i think i am almost ready to create any reasonable size kiln. Is there any better wire then tungsten wire that is the highest melting point metal element one can uses but maybe you know of a more stronger wire metal alloy that is more durable and a better heat source ?
@@vogman Also once you calculate the resistance and length of wire you need how do you know how much heat it generates per unit of time. Is there a rating on the wire you buy for that or just ohm per meter ? Because knowing how much btu/hour it gives off and assuming perfect insulation you get a crude way to compute the rate at which it will get to a given temp. Ofcourse max temp is controlled by efficiency of insulation to.
You need something more positive to retain the mains cable - that grommet is OK to prevent chaffing but will not prevent it pulling out. A clamp on the inner side of the grommet perhaps?
Say Hi to dave!
Have you tried melting brass or copper with this furnace?
Yes : )
I think this was the first time I melted copper in this electric foundry - ruclips.net/video/15ZYlUmk4eM/видео.html
@@vogman Thanks! I've been wanting to make some aluminum bronze in my own electric furnace and was curious as to how the Kanthal wire stood up to the higher heat (higher than aluminum temperatures).
A very English solution, not that that's bad in this instance. Novel ingenuity is a dying breed these days!
'English' is all I can do : )
These videos are so good they would probably have gone viral if you allowed public ratings on them. When you don't allow public ratings then the video is highly unlikely to ever gain traction.
Thanks for the kind words. It's much appreciated.
I can't really imagine anything of mine going viral but thanks for the public ratings spot. I hadn't noticed that option wasn't clicked.
I've spent a few minutes going threw my videos and some are and some aren't. I'll set them all to 'on' though personally I like to think people either Like or Dislike on the basis of what they think, rather than worrying about what others feel : )
can i use this to forge knives aswell?
That depends on what you mean by "forge knives."
If you mean "cast" a knife from molten metal like aluminium or bronze, then yes, though these are mainly replica knives.
If you mean can you heat and work steel, I'd say no. Electric is much too slow for that.
Hope this helps
: )
@@vogman yes i was refering to heating steel to shape the knives, i thought that it would be too slow but thanks for the information
i want to make a forge that runs off of electricity instead of gas or coal, do you think making a 12kw induction heater could do the job?
I love your enthusiasm but I really don't think electricity will do it for you. It's possible of course, but you'd have to use a LOT of power. My foundry is only around 2Kw and it takes me about 9 hours to melt copper. So 12Kw will get you a lot closer, but you've got to retain that heat for it to really work.
If you're looking for an environmentally friendly approach, why not try waste veg oil. It's amazing what you can do with an oil burner : )
@@vogman thanks ill try it
Did you try ceramic fiber?
I did use a little ceramic fibre later on in the build for additional insulation : )
Dave The Lid did a great job. You just sat down while he was doing everything! how disapointing...
where did you buy your bricks???
Depends where you are in the world really. It's just a case of doing an internet search for Grade 28 Fire Bricks and finding the best deal. For me at the time it was a company called castrekilns.co.uk but I've since seen cheaper. Shop around : )
cool thanks
You're not gonna get a better insulating material for the money than KAO wool Lol. What do you think blacksmith forges are insulated with And the temps and our forges regularly get above 2000ﾟF
I can see some link to Part 1, but it doesnt work.
Hi Bruce, that sounds strange. For your ease:
Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/XypmI38IKAw/видео.html
Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/QOfCKiQjSds/видео.html
Part 3 - ruclips.net/video/jHCnYy39Oxc/видео.html
Can you remember where you spotted the broken link? This will help me track it down and correct it.
Thanks.
Ooops, my mistake: OK now Thanks
No worries. Thanks for coming back to me : D
looks like a transformers character
Maybe I could make a movie ; )
Lid looks like Incan Temple.
7:04 ??????
Well, I did say I needed welding practice : )
@@vogman he said that because your footage is in reverse there. The aluminum piece flies magically into your hand
@@easyasABC123 yes yes
Haha that's what she said 5 inches will be long enough to fill the gap
I Cant help it IT LOOKS LIKE A FACE !!!!!
😁😁😁😁😁😁
I dont wanna be bitchy again ,i rely like your channel ,and you did something nobody else did -but how much when you draw the line did all this cost you?looks expensive,with firebricks and ceramic insulation (probably most expensive component).
That's not bitchy, that's a perfectly fair question.Unfortunately I can't give an exact answer because a lot of the stuff I already had to hand (angle iron, lengths of wood, etc).
Firebricks aren't cheap and I think I said in the video that they cost me £5 each - and I had 30, so that's £150. The mortar I think was £25.
The insulation is £9 a meter - and I bought 2 meters, though really I only needed one, so leave that at £9.
The PID is roughly £25 - there's always deals on those, plus I bought a separate thermocouple for £9.
Timber isn't cheap... I think it cost me £50 for two lengths of 4x4 (robbery).
Wire rope is cheap enough (and I already had some - sorry) along with regular rope.
And as I say, everything else I pretty much had to hand - screws, glue, cotton cloth, metal putty, bolts... typical shed stuff. - you should see my shed : )
I even already had the wheelchair motor. I love those things. I think I got that one on eBay for £40 - a real bargain. But they can go for twice that.
So yes, it all adds up, but a lot of what I did here was optional and hopefully I've got something that will last for years. Plus, if I'd purchased something like this brand new I would imagine it would be a thousand or two.
In truth I was making a tool, something that will work well for me and most importantly, something that I enjoyed building.